Just read a response from Marshall in the R/E archive. Apparently a haywire
voltage regulator can trip the ovp relay causing such problems if output
gets much above 15V. The original query didn't cite temp as a trigger
though.
-j
On Sun, Dec 7, 2008 at 12:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL
Could be a needle stuck in its nozzle body bore. I've seen that so bad that
I'm convinced that no amount of Purge could remedy it. Makes quite the
racket but just requires nozzle replacement.
-joe
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list
Just hooked up the lowest of low end Bose, the CineMate speaker
system, to the new tv my brother I got for Mom for xmas. She thinks
she's died gone to heaven. Best is the really quite intuitive
universal remote that came with it fixed the stupid comcrap dvr that
wouldn't pause, rewind, fast
Been a while now but Dan Penoff used to have a '62 300SE, a fintail
with hydropneumatics. As I recall, when I first saw it the car had
been sitting for quite a while and the suspension had leaked down. It
pumped right up on starting though and held pretty well at shutoff.
Don't know if he ever
What the others have said, Douglas. To elaborate, if you remove the
glove box liner and possibly the lower panel under the dash you'll be
able to access the manifold thru which all the vacuum circuits are
routed. Testing individual circuits at the manifold will tell you
whether there's leakage
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/473707498.html
Most probably but I've found a replacement so it's time to see what
it'll bring. If it doesn't sell within a week or so for something
close to this I'll probably list it on fleabay and let the chips fall
where they may.
-joe
Read the W124 fsm, 07.1-8627.pdf. 30 Nm, release; 30 Nm, release; 30
+ 5 Nm. Control is different in your OM606 but I'm assuming that the
fuel circuitry of the pump is essentially identical to that in the
W124 E300D.
-j
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new
A 123 is easy. It's the filling in a foam sandwich accessible either
thru the glove box or if not there for sure behind the lower panel
below the box. Reminds me, the insulating sandwich is kaput on my
'80; I need to order a replacement if I'm ever to get around to
recharging the thing.
-joe
83-630 in the fsm, Kaleb. There reference to a partition, center-top
presumably at the rear of the engine compartment. Sounds like you'd
have to remove the ABS control unit, if fitted, to get to it for
removal. Is the SDL ABS equipped?
-joe
___
I just recently disconnected the tired old aux pump in my '87 TD.
Haven't driven it a lot since then but my initial impression is that
pretty much precisely the symptoms you've described have disappeared
and the acc is behaving in a much more civilized fashion.
-joe
What they all said. But if you find yourself OD'ing on the Mall and
getting claustrophobic in the City, there's some beautiful and quite
rural country out near Leesburg. Annapolis is a beauty of a town
that's just dripping with history. Charlottesville's worth a visit if
you can spare the time
Flying blind here, Dave, but could that second pdf have anything to do
with it? Not at all sure the transponder coil part of the instruction
applies. What the heck is a 'drive authorization system' anyway?
-joe
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
From WIS.
-j
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--
Only a few stripped bolt heads, John? That's nothing. I had to use a
hammer cold chisel to start fully half the bolts when I first
removed the intake from the old rust belt albatross. Bit of a pita
but doable beats waiting a week for a special order. Had no such
troubles when I replaced the
I may have posted a relevant link to Spud's website, Loren, but I've
not yet gone there myself. Try this:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_sunroof/
-joe
Does that tranny have a reverse band adjutment like on my old 123
240D? -Mike Canfield
I wondered the same thing, but don't see any indication in the epc
that the 722.361 has a reverse band that might be amenable to external
adjustment.
-joe
I think the main issue with the 124 hitches and probably later models
is the bulb out warning circuitry. Isn't it the case that without
modification except for the addition of lights the bulb out warning
system will go wonky? Maybe not so much an issue with earlier
models..
-joe
Excellent score, John! Was it part of an estate sale or what? What
of the other 2 examples in that 1st pic?
-joe
Got lucky found a factory hitch with electrics on german ebay.
Buddy was bringing in some vehicles parts at about that time so I
hitched a ride for it in his container. The hitches turn up fairly
regularly over there but the electrics are a bit more of a poser; lots
of sedan harnesses but very
Having suffered thru a much worse crunching of a 124 front fender last
year I feel at least marginally qualified to hazard a guess. It just
might require a little massage of the underpinnings in the area of the
headlight support but given that neither the headlight or turn signal
look to have
I was travelling when I looked that up on my old laptop in the almost
as old MBNA EPC, Casey. Just double checked the WW EPC with the same
result though. Clearly states that 124 350 10 32 is the correct part
for the 124.092, as it is for the 124.193, left side. The same holds
true for 11 32 on
http://www2.lut.fi/~holtta/mb/4matic/
Think it was Casey that passed this along some months back. Pretty
revealing pics of the early 4-matic. Looks like a separate sump for the
diff inside the oil pan, but also looks like the front axles would
disconnect pretty easily just leaving some extra
Is is safe to assume you've found the 32 pages of 01-0300 in the M103
section of the fsm, Kaleb? I'm assuming of course that you're dealing with
an early '90's 124 gasser. Haven't been there but from scanning the first
half or so it looks a riot.
-joe
Is is safe to assume you've found the 32 pages of 01-0300 in the M103
section of the fsm, Kaleb? I'm assuming of course that you're dealing with
an early '90's 124 gasser. Haven't been there but from scanning the first
half or so it looks a riot.
-joe
Most likely your vacuum control valve is just out of adjustment, John.
There's a very simple procedure to rectify that in the fsm, 7.1-1826.
-joe
Bit of an odyssey over over muffler replacement. Ordered new one thru
Tom at Rusty's about 3 weeks ago. WoldPac muffler as delivered was a
useless pos. Rusty stepped right up and issued a call tag for return
all the way to Atlanta so he could show the thing to his local WP rep.
He also offered
I replaced the accelerator sockets with the metal variety, Peter.
Most all mine were cracked anyway. The sockets are cheap from Rusty;
I'm out of town right now and don't have access to the p/n's but Tom
knew them anyway. They're all r/h thread btw don't forget to order
the locknuts if you go
Don't fret too much Peter. I pulled the head from mine with a chain
winch suspended from a bit less than 8' ceiling in a too small garage.
Came out all right with the turbo exhaust manifold attached even
though I didn't have the winch very well positioned. Kinda resist the
temptation to put
It's kind of hard to see with everything buttoned up, but when I
pulled the intake from my '87 it was immediately apparent that one
source of coolant loss was the brittle o-ring that makes the seal for
the fuel heater pipe at the head. Mine was visibly leaking with just
a hint of residual
http://jsknight.googlepages.com/124
Just finished yanking the head from my wagon. Fooled around a bit
with acrobat and the subject page from the W126 manual. It's a much
more legible diagram than that contained in the W124 manual.
-joe
My 3-4 yr old WXP Pro install shuts down in 10s flat and I can easily
access gmail in 70s from power up - this in a patched together box w/
an 800MHz slot A processor.. TBird is a tad longer as it's not in my
startup folder. It isn't even a particularly parsimonious install.
Tell me again what
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/282866/en-us
Check out google earth.
-joe
Hm, so it is, Kevin. Excite maps didn't mind my spelling in the least
but Clawiter it is. I did confirm that it's on W. Winton, just beyond
Cabot. Phone is 510/785-3770. Been a while but they've generally had
a few 123's up for grabs although I doubt you'll get much useful over
the phone. I
The Addy I have for the Pick Your Part in Hayward is 92 N. Clowitter.
That doesn't look quite right on the map I just pulled up though.
Seems to me it's on Winton near Cabot which would be west on Winton
from Clowitter. I've usually gotten there by taking Clowitter N. from
92 and turning left on
Stockton Auto Dismantlers
3239 S El Dorado St
9520800-235-8733
They price matched PGA with me for an alternator out of an E300D and
shipped it to me for 20bux. Talked with Steve there after my wagon
got smacked; they'll happily slice 'n dice. Probably won't be as
cheap as a pyp though.
-j
Broken springs can certainly be a fly in the ointment, Ralph. But if
the seat frames are intact and the cushions not completely worn out
I'll warrant that you'll have a hard time believing the effect that 2
little foam blocks placed between the coils across the front of the
seat can have. Dave
With the seat electrics involved separation of the seat back from the
bottom is kind of a pita. btdt. Additionally, the seat memory for
the driver's seat would require that you interchange the control
modules if you want to retain that feature. If your seat bottom is
just 'flaccid', there's a
There's a pretty good Pick your Part in Hayward another in Oakland.
I could probably come up with names and addys if needed. Not much on
the N. Peninsula. Of the major dismantlers I have some experience
with one in Stockton if you're driving up I-5.
-j
Something like this question could provide a good test of the
functionality of the online EPC. If you sign up for a month's
subscription to the worldwide version you should be able to enter your
VIN, go into parts lookup and let it tell you precisely the part
number and color code for your seat
I wonder why a new head would require machine work?
___
New heads are supplied bare and must be set up before installation,
Jim. If I were considering bidding on this one I'd wonder about the
competence of the shop that did the work. If confirmed good, the
starting bid would be a really
Most of what you're looking for should be in the Word doc you'll be
receiving offlist, Euan. Couple screenshots from the epc.
-joe
engine shock.doc
Description: MS-Word document
First Marshall and now Spud, is someone, or something, taking our good
people away? Has anyone heard from Dave Meimann?
What Mitch said, Jim. My recall not quite being the steel trap it
once was I'm not positive but I have a vague recollection of his
having asked after you in the not too far
Thank you, Casey. Made my day.
At least you needn't concern yourself with the possibility of having
taken out the timing belt.. ;)
-j
David's right on the money. I got lucky in that my 'shop' vac is a
little old cannister with a hose that has a controllable leak built
into it's handle. Using the usual plastic bucket I just set the
vacuum leakage so the the bucket just barely starts to buckle and keep
an eye on it as the hot
Presumably the 'Nitrous Oxide Systems' sticker on the back of the convert is
more body art a la the phony tail pipes. Don't see any signs of plumbing
for same in what I take to be the engine compartment pic. What's with the
breather in that pic, anyway? They do that differently in '81 than
Re: ebay item 330028300261
Looks suspiciously like the lower part of the servo containing the plumbing
and coolant flow control valve...? If that part needs replacing then I'd
suspect the gearset is past it also.
-joe
I didn't find it at first either, Larry. But then it occurred to me to look
in the 126 manual. There, at 14-180 in the 300SDL manual, it's listed as 25
Nm.
-joe
Is that for age or mileage?
Or is there a special club for centurarians (?) who drive 100 mph on the
track?
__-
Not quite, Andrew. My understanding is that kind of a holy grail for more
or less stock 500E owners is to break 100 at the drag strip in the standing
1/4mi.
-joe
As I recall, Chuck, it took Spud more than a few trips down the tarmac to
achieve that goal at ~2700' elevation in Idaho. If you're at all serious
about it you might want to ask him for some tips. I think maybe traction
control at launch was a bit of an issue he maybe wound up stripping excess
Almost makes me wish I was driving enough to justify buying the kit for my
ride. At ~$100/wk for diesel, if you're getting your oil for nearly
nothing the payback is pretty quick. Just heard on another list about
someone who coked his rings running unheated veggie; looks like Frybrid
covers
Yep, second that, Loren. Chuck's altogether standup (besides, he gave me a
ride in his rpg). Is it too late to pony up dues and get a ballot?
-joe
___
Our own Chuck Landenberger is running for one of the DAL slots in MBCA. I
urge all of you who are MBCA members to Vote for
Just got off the phone w/ the nice lady at MBCA, Chuck; started from scratch
to get you listed as sponsor. Should have the voting requisites w/i a week
or 2. Hope you break into the century club at the drag strip. :)
-joe
I just checked w/the MBCA National Business Office. If
Think you might be looking at the wrong page in the wiring diagram,
Loren. Looks to me as though that circuitry comes into play along
about m/y 1990.
-joe
I will admit to having violated the manual's stricture
against splitting the halves of the calipers now on more than one
occasion without apparent adverse consequence. Makes inspection/cleaning a
bit easier and reinstallation of the pucks a lot easier. Last time on
my V'gon following a sudden
You go, Ernest! Never had a lot of patience for folk that decide
there might be something of interest in a thread after it's been
ongoing for a couple of days and then have the effrontery to expect
that those who've been involved all along have some obligation to
bring them up to speed.
Also
: http://makeashorterlink.com/?G4565299D
Anybody got a clue as to how this thing might function, or what might
be a better way to control water buildup in a compressor tank? I've
got a small compressor that I'm intending to install into an enclosure
outside the garage with on/off switch,
There's an almost horizontal flat surface just in front of the i/p
that's just big enough for the engine # to be stamped into it.
joe
I'm on digest, Robert, so I expect someone's already fielded your
question but just in case, 15 03's left, and 16 03's... you guessed
it.
-j
Hmm. Seems I've been scanning the subject lines in the digests a
little too loosely. Can you indulge me, John, and provide a little
more detail about this ride? Is it a conversion or what? Any idea as
to precise pedigree of the engine?
-joe
My installation doesn't bring up a datacard for your VIN, Euan, but
defaults to the generic 123190 catalog for EU/JA. Neither does a
search for your referenced part # bring any joy. The listed p/n for
the struts is A 123 320 07 13. Nor is there reference to any p/n's
that may have been
I look forward to hearing the result, Euan. BTW, as I believe should
have been obvious from my post, I was searching an install from a
WWEPC that did include datacards for eurospec vehicles. Don't recall
offhand whether there was a further option that I may have left
unchecked for markets other
This can be sticky and sometimes completely innocent. Brand new
OM606IP I recently bought on german ebay with the intention of trading
for a rebuild to go into my '87 wagon was weeks arriving even though
I'd paid for 'express' shipping. Turned out it got to US customs
quick time at which point
There's some pretty good cliff dwellings and a river at Canyon de
Chelly, south of Monument Valley. Don't recall any riverside camping
anywhere near Mesa Verde.
joe
Just looked it up. 5 yrs ago it cost me $70 to get the skins from the
300D professionally drycleaned. Money well spent.
joe
Sending separately direct an extract from the WIS, 83-140, Larry,
that looks like it might cover the issue. Not too big a file; hope
your mail server doesn't choke on it.
joe
Were you wondering about this yesterday, Casey? I've had remote entry
to my old 300D for years; no need to add an electric vacuum pump. Go
to
http://www.spal-usa.com/
and pick out a basic kit that'll handle at least one door. Then under
accessories you'll find:
Part Number: 3707
Those files are mainly for manual a/c, Casey. I've scanned the wiring
diagram from my paper manual for acc2, stripped from list copy, which
I think might provide much of what you need. 83.8-603/15. Those
things aren't really legible in the cd version anyway.
joe
-- next part
Sounds like that pump's leaking internally, Kaleb. I expect an oil
analysis would confirm that. I can probably get you a new pump for
less than what it'd cost to get that one rebuilt. Let me know offlist
if you're interested.
joe
I'm under the impression that 50mm is plenty close enough to 2 for
practical purposes, Tom. You think not?
joe
Haven't yet gotten around to installing it but I scored a factory Oris
hitch off german ebay a while back. Installs like Casey's hitch but
looks to me to be considerably more substantial, rated to tow 1900kg.
Also has a neat toollessly detachable ball head that when removed
leaves no receiver
As noted earlier the Unwired Tools servo replacement that Performance
currently has on sale is a closeout of an earlier than current
version. Should work well enough but installation is a bit more
involved and iirc it lacks some of the programability of the current
version. If anyone's feeling
Just a wee reminder folks. Klann delivers a little injunction against
using air tools with all their compressors. YMMV of course, but I'm
personally inclined to take these little caveats rather seriously and
I *certainly* wouldn't use air with a clone.
joe
Spud's still unsubbed from the list; too busy to keep up these days.
He's asked me to forward the following, which I've culled from several
emails in hopes someone can shed more light. Those of you who've been
around surely know how to send mail to him direct. I'm on digest so
won't make a very
I think the instructions say to adjust at zero, but I adjusted mine
on the 90's 300TDt at 1so that I can move to zero and adjust the beams
upwards a bit on the highway.
__
Great minds really do think alike, don't they John? ;)
I was a bit surprised though to find that the procedure
Got a really great deal on a Gus Pfister rebuilt I/P for my '87 TD so
plugged the thing in just before leaving on a little road trip a
couple of weeks ago. While I was at it, I pulled the instrument
cluster to replace the outside temp display. Got it started the
evening before we left so there
Marshall Jim, many thanks for the suggestions! Clock had me
thinking grounds as well, but everything else works I hadn't
considered a possible grounding issue inside the cluster as all I did
the last time around was to change out the outside temp display, but I
did have it apart months ago to
Finally got around to hooking up the switch in the '80 300D this
afternoon, so now the question is in which position should the switch
be when the headlights are adjusted. Both this switch and the not yet
installed one for the '87 wagon are 4-position switches numbered 0-3.
I'm inclining toward
Finally decided a couple weeks ago to bite the bullet and replace the
crusty old reservoir in my wagon. What finally arrived after I was
informed that the old p/n, 124 869 06 20, had changed, along with the
price of course, was 124 869 09 20, which turns out to be the
reservoir that's installed
I suppose I'm nowhere near the first to notice that to continue to use
WXP Update it's now required that users allow the installation of what
is essentially spyware to confirm you've got a 'genuine' licensed copy
installed. What'l they think of next?
joe
You're quite right, Bob - this list can be a real hoot. If you go
deep enough into Bruce's pump to find an o-ring the pump's prolly due
for a trip to the test stand for recalibration. The copper seal for
that pump is 005 997 45 48 and the proper torque is *40-50 Nm on the
pipe connection in one
Anybody ever successfully disassemble one? Replaced the one in my '87
TD when I found it wasn't functioning altogether correctly after
getting it back from accident repairs. Guess I'm wondering if a shard
from the shattered reservoir might have made it thru the pump and
clogged a port in the
I see in the epc that in Europe a different pump was installed after
engine 011121. Any informed speculation as to what the difference
might be? Does this likely have anything to do with the slightly
higher output of the European version?
joe
Puttin' together a little nuisance parts order I think I've just had a
stroke of genius - or something. I was going to add that 5-hole
switch panel to the order in another attempt to get one that'll allow
me to add the light range selector switch to the center console when
it occurred to me
Can't remember the last time anyone, or even dogs, were in the back
seat of that car, so I guess the obvious solution's been staring me in
the face waiting to be recognized all along. Thx.
joe
EPC shows a washer, N000125 010518, between the adjuster block and 2
washers, N000137 010201 N912004 014100, under the bolt head.
joe
Went ahead and picked up a band-aid fix at Kragens. Applied several
thin coats with liberal heat between. Time will tell. I just may
have to give PGA a shout in the AM though.
joe
At that price it could be a really good deal - or not. It's not
unlikely that the piston is frozen in its bore from sitting too long
with less than perfectly clean fuel in it or maybe even soaking up
moisture from the air. Had to disassemble mine for that reason once;
now I charge it with M1
Karsten mentioned this when he returned the wagon following its recent
facelift. I took advantage of having it up on stands today for a
general inspection to locate what he was talking about. Crack is
about 9 long toward the center where it makes a sharp bend to form
part of the seam where the
Near as I can tell Mathieu is correct. There's just no place the
light range switch can go on a W123 anywhere near the headlight
switch. Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll
mix up some fairly soupy epoxy with some ground up pencil lead for
color and make a mold out of
I have removed switch blanks in order to install switches where none
existed. They were made of black plastic with tabs on the ends,
removed and installed by flexing.
Johnny B.
_
Unfortunately the opening for the temp wheel is a little different
size shape than those intended for
The label on the plastic bag the part came in has the p/n I ordered,
123 683 31 08. Finally occurred to me to do the obvious check the
part itself. On the back it's clearly indicated that I was sent the
wrong part, 123 683 38 08. D'oh!!
Fortunately the correct part appears to be available in
Along with the wagon arrived today a box of assorted parts from Speed,
among which is the switch panel, the one that carries the
sunroof/antenna/etc switches. From the epc, the p/n I ordered
received looked to have 5 openings for switches, the 5th being needed
for a light range adjuster switch.
Delivered about noon today, replete with new late production
hood/pad/grille/star, late production euro lenses to go with the
updated hood, fan/clutch/2-piece fan shroud/Behr radiator, hydraulic
reservoir - the list goes on. Paint and fitment are perfect; if I get
down close and look real hard I
Doesn't look like there's any mapping for north amerika. Drat! I was
all set to rush out and snag a pair for my oh so classic rides.
joe
Here's an update from Steve at Unwired in response to my email query this AM:
The hardware supports tapping into the coolant temp sensor that drives the
dash gauge. We just didn't implement the software. Here in Arizona we want
the system to turn on immediately. In cold climates you probably
Few yrs ago stopped to refuel about an hour into a 3 hr drive in my
first '87 TD. Wouldn't crank anywhere close to fast enough to start
after filling. Tried jumping with an obviously not robust enough
battery. Finally resorted to tow starting with the assistance of a
good samaritan. Drove the
Finally got the Unwired kit to replace the servo amp installed
functioning in my '80 300D. Actually I spent a good part of last
weekend on it. Nothing inherently very difficult about the
installation but getting the kinks out turned into quite a marathon.
Vacuum issues were as expected the
I've got an email off to Steve at Unwired wondering if he can shed any
light on the price break.
Rusty didn't even give me his special one-day rate, Kaleb, so I was
stuck with the full price of $695.
joe
That always seems to be a touchy point. Did they allow for a rental
while repairs are made?
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
_
Took weeks to squeeze a clear acceptance of liability out of 'em.
Didn't feel it was wise to ask until then, and of course after they
made a lowball
So, would you consider the wreck a blessing in disguise not counting
any aches and pains? It'll look sweet with the upgraded parts.
Judgment reserved for the moment, but I'm shall we say guardedly
optomistic. ;) I'm not however feeling so grateful to Farmers that
I'm much
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