My heart always comes back to the 1977 to 1980 pre turbo 123 chassis, (my
two
cents).
I've had 5 of them, 3 300D's and 2 300CD's. I would have to agree with you
on simplicity, no ALDA adjustment and no extra places for oil leaks such as
the turbo oil drain tubes. I say this as I'm about
Same problem when I did mine, even assembled it correctly (or the same
way it came apart anyway) and it still leaked a bit. Drained it, put
some gasket sealer on the washers and reassembled and that has held tight.
Oh impure mechanical not-approved-by-Benz hacking, you offend Wotan et
al.
http://www.mercedes-damien.com/historique/amg%20sous%20menu/AMG%20W123/amg%20w123.htm
http://www.amg-classics.de/6601.html is the guide i have [had] somewhere in
pdf.
The didn't really get much extra hp out of the 110 - wonder if the thread
starting car has AMG engine mods - if the valve cover
'You know, education, if you make the most of it, you study hard, you do
your homework and you make an effort to be smart, you can do well. If
you don't, you get stuck driving high-powered diesel SUVs.'
JFK-H
Jeff Zedic wrote:
Somebody, somewhere please tell me why the hell you need those
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-1987-Mercedes-Benz-300SDL-300-SDL_W0QQitemZ140048318120QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Nov 03 02:08:17 2006
Received: from customer-domains.icp-qv1-irony11.iinet.net.au ([203.59.1.151])
by
WOW, thats a super deal
Rusty wrote:
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W123 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) up to VIN 150314 $27.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) from VIN 150315 $36.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $27.00
Front Brake
geez, even better
Rusty wrote:
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W124 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1987-1993 $42.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1994-1995 up to VIN B864307 $73.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1994-1995 from VIN
Removed the monovalve insert tonight, it was clogged with the red-sandlike
radiator/block/head sealer stuff from the PPO. So, I installed one I replaced
in my SD (before I discovered that the coil was bad) and suddenly I have heat
in the car. So, I took it on a drive tonight, about 5 miles on
I've been following the previous thread about W123 vs. early W126.
How about a comparison of early W126 vs. later W126?
Craig
How about a comparison of early W126 vs. later W126?
Pretty much all the late model 126's were L's, right?
Whole 'nother kettle of fish. I really like ours. Also
had the new wheels and lights, factory alarm, and the
any-lock central locking system. Memory seats. These
from memory. Oh, and
Cosider this: It starts instantly - after I count to 10 before firing
it
up - so it *is* pre-glowing the GPs. Else it would be hard to start.
When
it starts, it seems as though 1 cylinder is not firing until ~10
seconds
after the engine starts - which makes me think it's a GP or the wiring
I just checked the wiring and GPs by testing the resistance
between the
plug at the relay and the engine. I removed the plug and put the pos
lead
in the plug and the neg against the engine block - got a reading of .4
on
all 5 -
Does that mean my wiring ** the GPs is good or do I have
got a reading of .4 on all 5 -
The nominal 0.6 ohm (cold, but not too cold) value of the new-style
plugs is in the borderline area of being able to use a garden-variety
ohmmeter to diagnose. Consider the lowly series plug of yore, that
has a nominal (hot) resistance of 0.02 ohms, probably half
Kevin said
I would have preferred that all such cars had the manual ACC
systems which the 240D's were equipped.
He is right a week link, but has fostered some interesting alternatives to
fix it...Tom Bellefonte PA
- Original Message -
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes
Have to adjust valves again has it been 20K allready since I did it? Bought
a dial gauage and want to test the stretch and timing while I am in there.
Anyone now exactly what size threaded piece with thread size I need or can
describe it to bolt into engine to hold the
dial indicator. I
Hi Jim,
I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to do the writeup below - but my
limited knowledge of electrical stuff makes most of it meaningless.
Did my test of the resistance of the wiring GPs do any good at all?
Should I ty to get Mercedes to fork over a new relay? If I tell them I
I love the L's it is so much nicer having the extra room in the back seat.
The 300SDL with good head is suppose to be a good engine. Not as good as the
617, as it requires more maintenance, regular vacuum pump replacements, more
likely for IP to leak, etc. But it will run circles around the 617.
why do you need a dial indicator to check chain stretch? You simply
rotate the engine around till you line up with TDC on the crank, then
slowly turn it till the lines on the cam shaft line up, then look at the
crank and see how many degrees you are off.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Have to
The 603 is as good or better that the 617 in terms of durability and
reliability. Its much better in terms of starting, mileage etc. The
difference is the 603 will not take as much abuse as a 617. As for the
vacuum pump, after you replace the original with the updated part, you
really
Have to adjust valves again has it been 20K allready since I did it?
Bought
a dial gauage and want to test the stretch and timing while I am in
there.
You don't need any tools to do this, unless you suspect that
something involving the nominal positions of the harmonic
balancer and/or cam
Did my test of the resistance of the wiring GPs do any good at all?
Yes, it appears that your test has cleared the GP's themselves of
being completely dead. But there is still room for doubt given the
borderline ability of most meters to give accurate readings in this
range.
Should I ty to
clamp-on
DC ammeter myself, because it's also good for measuring things like
starter current, etc. They're not particularly cheap, but they can
certainly be had for less than my Fluke cost me.
This one, for example, is $90.
http://www.electrical-contractor.net/The_Store/EX/MA200_220.htm
The
Gentlemen, the way I test GPs is with a battery charger which has a
0 - 20 AMMETER by connecting the GP to the leads and watch the ammeter
go to around 20A and as the GP heats the current slowly drops to around
15A and stays at 15A steady state. Now that is a good GP.
Darrell
Jim Cathey
The Buick.
On 11/2/06, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hans wrote:I have a '97 Riviera, only make my wife ever considered
driving
until the
E300D came along: The security system [SNIP]
Hans,
Are you saying the Riviera had all those problems or the E300D?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D,
Thanks Jim -
I'll study on this for a while -
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test
Trampas wrote:
The 300SDL with good head is suppose to be a good engine. Not as good as the
617, as it requires more maintenance,
I figure maintenance is about a wash.
No valve adjustments on the 603, but GP replacement takes several
times longer than a 617.
Our 79 240D when parked up hill in the driveway and during a pretty heavy
or medium heavy but constant rain will get some water inside. Some trace
of the leak shows up on the hood release lever.
There is a chunk of gasket that's missing from under the window frame rail
that runs along the the
I was thinking the same thing last night when I heard about the new 250hp Honda
Accord coupe. My Dodge Dakota has like 230hp and its more than you'd ever need.
I'm thinking the most a car should ever need is 150hp and a fullsize pickup
only around 300hp and thats for a real serious 1 ton work
Thermostat RR is more of a pain on the 603, can't do it from above the
car like
on the 617.
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car
Quoting Mitch
I will do this hanks Kalb and Jim/tom
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1979 240D Time Chain Stretch
Have to adjust valves again has it been 20K allready
At 04:32 PM 11/2/2006, Jeff Zedic wrote:
Somebody, somewhere please tell me why the hell you need those kind of
performance numnbers!
It is for fun not need. Others fun is hard to understand. For
example, I find it impossible to understand the fun in jewelry.. What if
all the gold
Usually it means the front windsheild seal is leaking, coul be door but my
gues is the ladder.
My 1979 240D does the same. Regards Tom
- Original Message -
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 240D
In my search for another car I was looking hard for a 115 since I've already
had two 123 cars but I'm also a big fan of the 116.
My wife doesn't particularly like the 124, 126 or 201 because the headlights
aren't round...
I'd really love to have a 116 300SD. I should have bought a low mileage
That's here in Toronto. Wonder why he put it on CL Boston?
Need mechanic in DC for an old 240D. Anybody have good place to take
a 76 to get a look at and made strong enough for a trip to Central
America?
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
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Whose driving a w115 to central america? I have always wanted to do
that I would someday like to go all the way to the tip of south
america and back in a diesel mercedes. I wish they made a
I've been reading posts about finding suitable vehicles for teenage sons and
daughters of late and when I ran across a website containing NTSB reports of
auto and truck accidents they have investigated, I thought this one was
particularly relevant. I've gone through it several times and found
On Fri, 3 Nov 2006 09:11:44 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A 1/2 ton truck shouldn't ever really need more than 200hp.
And I thought our old, blue Chevy pickup ('64) with its inline 6 was
adequately powered.
Craig
If you can extend a cow's life
by one lactation,
Her lifetime profit will double
OK, explain this.
Craig
Some woman on the MBCA forum needs a mechanic so she can drive. I
moderate the w115 forum and figured you folks would be better able to
find somebody on the Atlantic side than I am. Most of the folks
posting on that forum are out in the tropics and deserts. She drove
from London to West
On 11/2/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Somebody, somewhere please tell me why the hell you need those kind of
performance numnbers! Is your peepee THAT small that you need to make up for
it somehow?? When will this kind of lunacy end??
I think part of the problem is that most people
So, I was originally under the impression the 300SD was just a slight
variation on the 300D.
I'm now getting the impression that the 300SD is an almost entirely
different car but using the same engine and transmission.
So... Which parts are the same or different? From what I've
So, I'm now gathering that the 300SD is more or less a different car with
the same engine and transmission as the 300D (both 83's). So what parts are
the same(or compatible) between the two or which parts are different?
Engine
Transmission
brakes
body
suspension
springs
shocks
climate control
I'm now getting the impression that the 300SD is an almost entirely
different car but using the same engine and transmission.
Not almost. It IS an entirely different automobile. I think very few, if
any, chassis, body or electrical parts will interchange. The S series was
(and is) Mercedes
Our 617 diesels also incorporate a bell-crank mechanism on the throttle
linkage to get approx 80% throttle application with an accellerator
depression of about 50%.
On 11/3/06, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 11/2/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Somebody, somewhere please
Curt typed:
I dunno, I think the 2.2l in my 190D only has 72hp and for the most part I
think its plenty. Even with my wife along and a 250# woodstove in the
trunk.
Somehow it's just right that weight in Curt's trunk would be a woodstove.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 162K
'87 Acura Legend 178K
Oh yeah, what size are the wheels on the SD? 15's? Are they swappable
with
the 14's on the 300D? (And put the 14's on the SD?)
I believe the bolt pattern is physically the same. If Marshall was here,
however, you would learn the niceties of wheel offset and how if the
engineers designed a
At 03:31 PM 11/3/2006, Craig asked for an explanation of:
If you can extend a cow's life
by one lactation,
Her lifetime profit will double
A standard claim by the people who sell Animat: the leader in floor
covering! known among dairy farmers. Further
I am going to print the exec summary and MAKE my kids read it while I
watch them, and quiz them on it when they finish. My 17 yr old is not
yet driving, we talk about this all the time when we see this kind of
idiocy on the freeway, which is multiple times nearly every day.
--R
[EMAIL
At minimum she will need a 6 lift, 34 tires, skid plates, and about 6
100W lamps up front.
--R
Redghost wrote:
Need mechanic in DC for an old 240D. Anybody have good place to take
a 76 to get a look at and made strong enough for a trip to Central
America?
I would guess it depends on how many years a cow will produce milk to feed
her young...how many years do they nurse a calf for?
(in nature I mean)
Jeff Zedic
*The lactation cycle of a cow*
On most Australian dairy farms, cows have their first calf at 2 ½ years of
age. Cows have the same gestation (pregnancy) time as humans: 9 months.
After the calf is born, the cow will continue to produce milk for about 300
days - this is called the lactation
Jim Cathey wrote:
2) it's getting
discolored, in which case no amount of polishing will do anything,
it's a change in the bulk material.
UV light does this to plastic, over time. I had that problem with my
Volvo. The stupid thing looked like it had cateracts.
Hans Neureiter wrote:
The automatic lights go out when passing by a mall at night and will not
come back on - dealer prognosis: replace all associated components, like
module, multi-function switch, sensor and what not ($ 600+ in parts).
I got sick of the automatic headlights on my Ford
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Removed the monovalve insert tonight, it was clogged with the red-sandlike
radiator/block/head sealer stuff from the PPO. So, I installed one I
replaced in my SD (before I discovered that the coil was bad) and suddenly I
have heat in the car. So, I took it on a drive
The way I understand it, dairy farmers don't make any money anyway, so
if a cow gives more milk, doubling $0 is still $0 (what you lose on the
first you make up on the second). Maybe having another calf will give
some payback.
--R
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've been reading posts about finding suitable vehicles for teenage sons and
daughters of late and when I ran across a website containing NTSB reports of
auto and truck accidents they have investigated, I thought this one was
particularly relevant. I've gone through
Trampas wrote:
Turning the input shaft will not make a difference. The adjustment is on the
output shaft and loosening the screw makes it tighter. If you over tighten
the box then when you drive and release steering wheel it will not return to
center, also it wears box more quickly.
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