I guarantee that the IN-12 was selected because it is available for
cheap and in high quantity.. The fact that it is also 18mm digit height
is bonus. (Sad to say, 18mm digit height nowadays is considered very large.)
The IN-17 would also be a good solution, since it is also cheap, but I
think th
Hey, I'm interested if nobody else is. :) I'm sure I can find something
in my collection to trade.
Can one of the bi-quinary masters in the group fill me in on the
advantages of these types of tubes? Better multiplex, maybe?
-Adam
On 7/16/2012 7:23 AM, Jonathan Peakall wrote:
Hey now, those
I'm certain that I'm already on plenty of government watch lists, simply
from all of the suspicious packages that I receive from the Ukraine &
Russia...
-Adam
On 7/3/2012 1:50 PM, Jan Rychter wrote:
On 2 lip 2012, at 19:33, Terry S wrote:
I'll wager that Dieter also has a growing bin, laden
Looks like they are about $40/each on ebay, same (rough) price that they
have been for the last 5 years. I think that when I started with this hobby
about 8 years ago, they might have been $30-$32/each. Oddly, IN-18's have
been one of the most stable priced nixies in the nixie market. which might
e
This is a great idea.
-Adam
On 6/28/2012 8:02 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
Well, the tens of hours position is one issue. Alas and alack, the board is
already made and even mounted in the case. I could do some add on action, but
not much room.
I'd probably grab a couple of MPSA42 transistors an
Hi Matthew,
You've actually already got the answer: Off is 80-100v. Unlike LED's,
Nixies change state from a very high impedance device (below the
ignition/striking voltage) until the ignition voltage is achieved, where
they become very low impedance. The nixie will stay very low impedance
w
Another stepping stone you might consider (although it is completely
backwards) would be a 16-segment VFD based FLW.
I know that I personally would be very interested in such a device,
given the significantly higher VFD availability than B7971. VFD's are
common cathode and are voltage regulated
The ED-209 scene in the Robocop movie comes to mind...
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 10:45 AM, GastonP wrote:
>
>
> On Jun 1, 12:54 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
> > I understand your point, Terry.. Which I think is the classic "Slippery
> > Slope" argument. You get used to c
I understand your point, Terry.. Which I think is the classic "Slippery
Slope" argument. You get used to cutting corners, before you know it
you're trying the same tricks at work where you design nuclear reactor
cooling systems, the systems fail due to your design choices that were
outside of s
That is interesting. My guess is that there are lots of lazy engineers
out there that have figured out that the part works OK on 5v. That's why
experimentation is so important. If I was going to make a WAG, I'd bet
that it works at 5v although probably at slower speeds. Try it with 5v
if it is
gt;
>
>
>
>
> On May 19, 3:40 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
> > Just super-impose the two pictures, that is the best solution. Getting a
> > shot where the watch (a small & near object) and the moon (a very very
> far
> > away object) are anything close to similar
Just super-impose the two pictures, that is the best solution. Getting a
shot where the watch (a small & near object) and the moon (a very very far
away object) are anything close to similar in size on the final image are
going to be nearly impossible. You could try it with focus-stacking, but
even
.. and even then, I always have a look at those 2 negative feedbacks. If
the seller has 99.995% feedback but the handful of negs in the past
month look really crooked, I won't buy. Also, at this point, I pretty
much won't buy anything from a seller that is in NJ. I don't know why,
but NJ is qui
Think about the requirements for your project before you start working on a
design. :)
Is power consumption a concern? 4 B7971's will draw a lot of current if
direct-driven.
Do you want the tubes as bright as they can be? direct-drive gives you lots
of brightness.
Is tube-life a concern? This is tr
Wow, great catch. I wouldn't have thought to ask if he was running the
HVPS through the 7805.. Should have done the math. :)
-Adam
On 5/9/2012 12:43 PM, seaforth23 wrote:
Hi - I was running it from 5V :(
Moving 1 wire (to run HVPS straight from input voltage) :-
9V in - 390ma
12V in - 320ma
You don't specify, but if you are using 74141's, then I would say that
is very normal. I believe that each 74141 uses 25ma of current.. So,
150ma just in the driver IC's. Worse, if you're using a linear regulator
to get that 150ma @ 5v, then you are turning the rest of your
wall-wart's voltage
Ah, interesting!
I will maybe give it a shot then. The little IV-16 numitrons are very
tiny, they seem like the perfect size for some kind of vehicle display.
-Adam
On 4/19/2012 12:45 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
I used long time a 3015F minitron incandecsent display without any trouble
in a Citroën
I know that a lot of people have experience with putting Nixie clocks in
cars. It sounds like nixies are not well suited to the vibration.
How about numitrons? Has anyone done a car clock with numitrons?
-Adam
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"neonix
pplies are drying up making it more proftable for this
kind of activity.
On 18 Apr, 21:32, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Can you be more specific? The two types of nixies that I currently care
about don't seem to have shown any change.
IN-18's (the tube that I lust for in my personal clocks) are st
Can you be more specific? The two types of nixies that I currently care
about don't seem to have shown any change.
IN-18's (the tube that I lust for in my personal clocks) are still
hovering at roughly $40/each
IN-12's (the tube that I use for all of my gift clocks) are still
hovering at roughly
Always use the ebay resolution center. Never let a claim lapse. I would
take this as an $80 lesson and be glad that it wasn't far more money. :)
If you let the claim lapse, you are telling ebay that you no longer have
a dispute. I always start the resolution center case _immediately_
whenever a
Yes, those pull-ups are necessary. The I2C interface pins on a
microcontroller (or on the slave device) are open-collector.
-Adam
On Sun, Apr 15, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Quixotic Nixotic
wrote:
> I am driving a DS3231 I2C clock from a PIC's pins. If the logic state of
> the pins is always high or low,
These are neat, too. Kind of pricey.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8664
On Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 9:15 PM, wrote:
>
> I use linx modules:
>
> http://www.linxtechnologies.com/products/rf-modules/
>
> Used 'em for years, work great.
>
> Jonathan
>
> On Sat 04/ 7/12 8:41 PM , morrisodell wrote:
There used to be a list around someplace, I don't know how relevant it
still is.
If you do a search, you should be able to find lots of good information
on this topic.
-Adam
On 4/1/2012 3:06 PM, Dan Hollis wrote:
How about if we report good sellers too?
-Dan
On Sun, 1 Apr 2012, Dieter Waech
Thank goodness for Ebay & Paypal. I recently purchased and received my very
first honest to goodness chinese counterfeit electronics about a month ago.
They were sold to me as Nvidia GT240 videocards, but on MUCH closer
examination, they were really Nvidia 7300gt's with hacked firmware and
hacked d
Yep, if you're trying to bit-bang the SPI then you are definitely
re-inventing the wheel. Look at Arduino "sketches" for other SPI devices
and see how they do it there. I don't have any arduino experience so I
can't be of much help either, but I've used the SPI port on the AVR many
many many times
. I thought it was an universal shematic file type,
'cause they are all .sch
Here's the pic http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?5903q1ur3inc729
Cheers
On Mar 22, 4:14 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Would you mind converting that schematic to some kind of image file? Is
that an eaglecad file?
en I first thought of something like this,
with parts I already had. And it all seems to work.
And sorry, no I haven't heard that one. Nothing like that in my
language.
On Mar 22, 7:45 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
I'm starting to get the impression that this is a parts-box project.
Have you ever
only NPN's :)
On Mar 22, 7:12 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
_MUCH_ better.
Okay, firstly this design can work - there's nothing fundamentally wrong
with it. Like I said, you'll need to be able to make cathode-side
blanking (74141) work if you're going to stick with only 3 anode drivers.
ile type,
'cause they are all .sch
Here's the pic http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?5903q1ur3inc729
Cheers
On Mar 22, 4:14 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Would you mind converting that schematic to some kind of image file? Is
that an eaglecad file?
blanking on the 74141 will cause l
Would you mind converting that schematic to some kind of image file? Is
that an eaglecad file?
blanking on the 74141 will cause leakage if the supply voltage is too
high. Are you using real 74141's or the russian kind?
From that picture, I'm not sure if that is leakage.
-Adam
On 3/22/2012 5:
Just a quick note, I don't know how many of you already have one of
these - but I really use the heck out of mine:
http://store.nkcelectronics.com/avr-jtag-ice-clone-debugger-programmer-kit.html
These little AVR JTAG ICE debuggers are on sale for $13 now. They won't
work with the latest version
I would be interested in this as well. Are you planning to market and
sell these modules?
On 3/18/2012 4:19 PM, Cobra007 wrote:
Hi Dylan,
It is actually a small circuit board that I have manufactured together
with the nixie watch circuit boards to save costs. The circuit board
is the size of a
That's a clever idea. I'll have to give it a try sometime.
On 3/16/2012 1:39 PM, David Forbes wrote:
My nixie watch has zero anode resistors. I added a current sense circuit to the
HV supply feedback circuit. I only light one tube at a time, using a total of
16 cathode drivers in TD62083 parts
imes
I don't really touch muxes' bits when I am not displaying anything
(nixies turned off). I only set them again when I want to display time
again.
On Mar 16, 9:09 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Right, each anode driver powers 2 nixies. You need to be careful to have
one of the pair's
second mux
turn on one anode driver
wait for 3ms
turn off anode driver
blanking period of 200us
repeat this n-times
I don't really touch muxes' bits when I am not displaying anything
(nixies turned off). I only set them again when I want to display time
again.
On Mar 16, 9:09 pm, Adam J
te:
I think my post was a bit unclear. I AM turning on two at the time x)
I have 3 pins controlling 6 nixies. That means one pin turns on 2
nixies at the same time. Each lit nixie is controlled by separate
K155ID1 (two muxes in total).
Or am I having problems understanding you..
Cheers
On Mar 16
You could do this.. It's not ideal in my opinion, but as long as you are
careful to never turn on more than one of the paired nixies at a time,
you could get away with multiplexing this way. I would set the anode
resistor at something like 10-15k to start with.
I think that this looks like a g
I think John's right. There's no reason you couldn't theoretically do
it, provided you jumped through the extra hoops. Design decisions like
this one have a tendency to add complication.
-Adam
On 3/16/2012 12:40 PM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
And I have to clear out that I have a common anode resi
Why are you sharing 1 anode resistor across two tubes? :) Is board space
at that much of a premium?
On 3/16/2012 12:18 PM, Imbanon wrote:
First of all, thank you all for your support. Feels great to have some
people with knowledge behind my back.
So many replies since I had time to check the gr
er supply
current with a DMM:
Use a relatively large (and at least 200V) parallel capacitor, then a
series resistor (100R), then another relatively large parallel
capacitor and then you can measure the voltage across the series
resistor with a normal DMM, which should be 1.2V for 12mA.
Michel
On Mar 15, 2
Why are you trying to achieve 8ma of current on IN-14's? Nominal supply
current for that tube is 2.5ma, everything else is providing excessive
current. Now, when multiplexing, lots of times we like to use excessive
current to make the display brighter, but I wouldn't kill myself trying
to achie
This reminds me of a famous interview question:
Q: Does complexity increase reliability or decrease reliability?
A: Complexity DECREASES reliability.
On 3/11/2012 12:27 PM, threeneurons wrote:
...but now you want to add complexity. Complexity that may not add
reliability.
--
You received t
Is it possible that those russian 74141's were both from the same bad
batch? I've made a lot of clocks and only ever had one fail on me (it
failed the same way as you describe). For about $2/chip and a failure rate
(for me) of about 1 in 100.
-Adam
On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Cobra007 wrot
Check the voltage output of your wall-wart with a voltmeter when the
supply is unloaded. If the voltage is below the maximum allowed voltage
in the IC's datasheet, then you're fine. If not, then get a new
wall-wart. :) The short answer is that: No, it doesn't make sense to
send the input to you
Disable the multiplexing, so that only 2 nixies are lit (and those lit
at 100% duty cycle). THEN measure the current draw. You will not be able
to accurately measure the peak current draw of a multiplexed nixie with
a multimeter. . and YES, you definitely need a current limiting resistor
or you
The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking,
provided that your HV supply is a normal value (180vdc). If you are
using something very high, like 250v, then you're going to start running
into the problem that the 74141/K155ID1 are not able to extinguish the
nixie. FYI, the
I agree. I also take some exception to the idea that using rectified
mains is somehow horrifically dangerous and never done in modern times.
There's nothing wrong with an unisolated HV supply, provided that the
case is designed in such a way that no part of the design can come in
contact with a
You can also write a monitoring thread into your program. A little
defensive coding can go a long way here. Another option is to not drive
your nixies at more current than they are supposed to receive when
direct-driven, that is what I do. Sure, the nixies are a little dimmer
(although I don't
That's the one. I liked the DS1307 (combined with a DS32khz) because they
were both DIP parts. That was before I discovered the sweet little SOIC
breakout boards that sparkfun sells.
-Adam
On Sun, Feb 26, 2012 at 12:39 PM, threeneurons wrote:
> > I2C is a _lot_ more complicated than SPI. I spent
I2C is a _lot_ more complicated than SPI. I spent a great deal of time
wrestling with the other Maxim RTC part (The 8-pin DIP version that doesn't
include the 32khz TCXO.. can't remember its name). I finally got it right,
learned a lot about I2C in the process. In my case, the knowledge has
direct
This is why I switched to multiplexed microcontroller designs.. MUCH less
soldering. :)
-Adam
On Sat, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:44 AM, Spencer W wrote:
> I wish it was only once. ;) have to make about 4 more for the family. I
> did get giddy when I lighted up the in-14's to make sure it worked. Nothin
They're also covered in the TTL Cookbook (That's where I found out about
them)... Where did you find them?!?
-Adam
On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 6:44 PM, David Forbes wrote:
> On 2/23/12 7:11 PM, Dylan Distasio wrote:
>
>> Hi all-
>>
>> I recently picked up 2 SN74142 ICs. I'm about to show my ignora
I've definitely done that, the volkswagon headlights work best, the 6v
kind. Or sometimes you can find a really big rheostat. These kinds of
things are great for when you want to drain a battery or put a lot of
load on a circuit.
-Adam
On 2/14/2012 11:48 AM, Imbanon wrote:
The good news is t
Exactly. I would assume that would be a cornerstone of the case, so
you'd want to make sure that the diagnosis was infallible. I haven't
read through all of the petition to see if there is any mention of this
fact but I assume that it is pretty devoid of evidence.
-Adam
On 2/9/2012 2:53 PM, C
There is no way he'll get anywhere with this in court. I think that his
legal representation is counting on the small time electronics dealers
to settle out of court to avoid the legal costs. It's sad, the threat of
suing someone in this country is almost like extortion to most people.
-Adam
That's what I was thinking, it was my understanding that elemental
mercury is not all _that_ readily absorbable by the body. The kind that
you need to worry about is the sort that has already been absorbed by a
body (like a fish) and so is in a form that your body will happily
accept.. and also
Holy cow, I just clicked that link. If he's 21 and his resting pulse is
150, his problem isn't mercury poisoning... It's probably chronic
refusal to exercise! He talks about high horsepower blood pressure meds
and beta blockers, that is not normal stuff for someone so young. I
think he should b
Honestly, this sounds to me like the guy's managed to find an
ambulance-chasing law firm that will do the job for a percentage of the
inevitable settlement. The thinking being that if you shake the whole
tree, some apples will fall down.
You're welcome to sue anybody you like in this country f
1) I am not a lawyer. I do know more than the average idiot about the
practice of law, however, due to circumstances which forced me to spend
the last year in "the law school of hard knocks" as I call it. The below
in no way constitutes legal advice nor should it be construed as such in
any way
I've seen several on the net, this is still my favorite:
http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Leserbriefe/Bruegmann-Digital-Roehren-Clock/Digital-Roehrenuhr.htm
-Adam
On 2/6/2012 3:08 PM, Cobra007 wrote:
I was wondering if anyone ever attempted to design a nixie clock that
is completely made up with
I know that this is probably meant as a joke, but I always recommend the
following book for men in relationships:
http://www.bettermencoaching.com/better-men-store.asp
It's a quick read, has a funny name and will honestly make your
relationship with your wife better.
-Adam W7QI
On 2/3/2012 12
Although, if you are using a voltage doubler to get your HV supply, you
will find that the supply sags as current increases. That's why using a
voltage doubler for the nixie HV is a hassle: as you increase nixie
current, HV supply voltage drops.. Use ohm's law to calculate the value
of your pot
In the Mike Harrisson design (at least for US power), the HV nixie
supply is ~250vdc. I think that 200-210 should not pose any problem
provided that the current limiting resistor is appropriate.
-Adam
On 1/22/2012 2:47 PM, Jan Rychter wrote:
On 18 sty 2012, at 07:08, dr pepper wrote:
Hi guy
This is how the old AC/DC television & radio sets worked. Originally, tube
filament voltages were standardized at 6.3vac. You would see a filament
transformer in the set that would run the filaments (in parallel).. later,
some bright spark figured out that if you run all of the filaments in
series
I guess that the additional question would be: How stable is the mains
frequency in the UK? We use it in the US because it is very stable.. I
understand that in the former soviet union, the mains frequency was
terrible. Whenever I open up old soviet clocks they always have a
crystal in them (an
The K155D plastic-die version will fit very happily in a standard
through-hole dip-16 socket.
The ceramic die version is weird and won't fit properly.
-Adam
On 1/16/2012 1:47 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
Ah, disappointing !
But do they fit in a dip-16 socket or pad if holes are large enough ?
Thanx,
Yikes, yes I don't think I would admit to home distillery of alcohol on
a public forum (at least not in the United States).
I would at the very least discuss the matter with my attorney. You'll
find that the cost savings drop dramatically once the revenuers and
police show up. :)
-Adam
On 1/1
I suppose that I only read about the bad experiences, but I always can't
help wondering to myself exactly why anybody messes with these chips at all.
-Adam
On 1/13/2012 4:14 PM, marta_kson wrote:
Your problem seems to be very common on the 1771. My experience is
that the feedback input is e x
No, I worked there. Trust me, the bug tracking database for any version
of windows is astonishingly full.
On a more serious note: Obviously all software has bugs. Period. The
only software that can honestly be described as truly bug free is the
most simple software with the least requirements.
On 1/12/2012 2:01 PM, Charles MacDonald wrote:
On 12-01-12 04:33 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
I'll try it. :) Thanks.
On 1/12/2012 1:31 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
If you say for waht purpose, you will probably get a (not to great,
but sufficiënt) amount at the pharmacist (not the one in the Wal
On 1/12/2012 1:56 PM, Charles MacDonald wrote:
On 12-01-12 12:51 PM, threeneurons wrote:
- it is real easy to write Buggy code in C
I don't write buggy code. It was intended to work that way ... I
swear :o)
I did did not say anyone writes buggy code, just if you want to -- C
is your
).
eric
*From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Adam Jacobs
*Sent:* donderdag 12 januari 2012 22:28
*To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] clock kits
Wow, that's a great tip. Thanks.
Now, I wonder if there is any way for a n
id !! ) .
eric
*From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
[mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Adam Jacobs
*Sent:* donderdag 12 januari 2012 19:01
*To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] clock kits
T
That is a nicely executed acrylic box case, Nick. Acrylic boxes are my
goto cheap case of choice (because I live near Tap Plastics and can have
one made for less than $5). They are more transparent than glass, so any
adhesive becomes visible. Mine are much less clean than Nick's. (..
and yes,
Always take the seller into consideration when comparing auctions. If
the seller doesn't have a lot of feedback or has something scary
sounding like "ABSOLUTELY NO RETURNS ACCEPTED" on the listing, then they
will get less money due to the higher risk auction.
-Adam
On 1/11/2012 2:58 PM, micha
t the
hard way. :)
-Adam
On 1/11/2012 9:39 AM, fixitsan wrote:
On Jan 11, 5:29 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
You can
simply download the SD Card interface library and have at it.. You won't
need to spend time with your nose buried in the SD Card reference
datasheet trying to figure out just h
I think that the arduino is a good place to start as well. Its language
for the sketches can best be described as "C like". I program in C for
my preference and have for the last 20 years, the arduino language looks
very familiar to me (so therefore, real C will look very familiar to
_you_ afte
If you set your sights a little lower, you'll find that there are still
some affordable nixies out there. Do a search for IN-12.
In my experience, although there are online stores that sell nixies,
most of them are more expensive than ebay. Although with ebay comes a
certain amount of risk, I su
This is called an astable oscillator by the way.
-Adam
On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 5:32 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
> > Wait...what. That won't work. Needs an inverter or something. I
> > have some flip-flops that needs a use.
>
> There are various ways to use a flip-flop to do this, depending on
Oops, I meant to say that my whole (small) collection of nixies is worth
more than $1000.. not that 24 IN-14's are worth so much. *blush*. Are
any group members making a serious try at collecting nixies for
*investment* (speculation)?
-Adam
On 1/9/2012 1:56 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
The
The topic of this $1500 used nixie sale prompted me to have a look back
through my own (small) collection of nixie tubes.
I suppose it says a great deal that my primary concern is that in the
future I won't be able to afford nixies anymore and has nothing to do
with the (mounting) value of the t
Thanks for the advice, David & Jens. It sounds like you are echoing my
original gut feeling on the subject. I'll just mark down the price he
paid and remember to add that to the purchase agreement in the future.
-Adam
On 1/9/2012 8:31 AM, jb-electronics wrote:
Hi Adam,
you can check the "gif
Hi everyone,
This is completely off-topic, but I know that there are many members
here who do a lot of shipping of product overseas and I'd like your
opinion. I usually don't sell anything to anyone overseas (it's a
hassle), but recently I made an exception. After the sale was made, the
buye
Not sure if it is the _only_ way to go, but I certainly think that it is a
great way to go. I believe that those chips are SPI, so no need for
additional latches and such. I'm not sure what those chips cost, but they
very happily sampled me a big pile a long while back.
-Adam W7QI
On Sat, Jan 7,
ent: Friday, January 06, 2012 9:58 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Where can I send customers for 12VDC
wall-warts in UK in particular, EU in general.
On Jan 6, 7:35 pm, Adam Jacobs wrote:
Of course, there is always the classic "fake chinese capacitors" pic:
http://www.discovercirc
I dunno, I like it that your username is "lucky". :D
I have purchased some VERY dodgy power supplies from china on ebay. I
mean firehazard dodgy. Now I only buy them from reputable sellers. I
figure it will save me the house fire.
Of course, there is always the classic "fake chinese capacitor
This listing is listed as a charity auction.. Clearly the bidders are
wanting to donate to a cause that they find personally worthy. It might
even be tax deductible. The absurdly high prices should be equivalent to
the absurdly high prices people donate for other causes, for example on
www.humb
Holy smokes, a topic on which I can educate Mike. Well, I'll consider it
an honor, Mike.
The reason that you can't always just tighten up the aperture... Well,
first you need to understand exactly what is going on when you make the
aperture smaller and why it makes the depth of field longer. F
I think that was in essence my comment at the time: That the easiest way
would be to "cheat" and capture it as HDR.
Software such as photomatix (commercial) or various free softwares can
take several bracketed exposures and merge them into a single image with
higher dynamic range than could have
I knew that no ham could resist bringing up the subject of a reactive load..
-Adam AJ9D
On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 5:02 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
> > I built a simple voltage multiplier as suggested out of two diodes and
> two capacitors and plugged in a 12VAC as input. I got out around 36 volts
In other words, you're almost there. Instead of grounding pin 7, if you
apply the +30vdc also to pin 7, you should see a segment light up.
-Adam
On Fri, Dec 30, 2011 at 4:57 PM, Adam Jacobs wrote:
> Ok. Pins 1&8 are the filament. Pin 7 is the grid. The rest of the pins are
> f
program to read the file is from http://www.djvu.org/ , it seems to
> be a PDF type file.
>
> It is page #188-189
>
> ------
> *From:* Adam Jacobs
> *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Friday, December 30, 2011 6:34 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [neo
I'm having a hard time finding the pinout for that VFD via google, if you
provide a link then I'm sure someone can help you.
VFD's will have 2 pins that are for the heater. Traditionally, AC is
applied across those two pins. The filament becomes the cathode for the
VFD. +~30vdc (in relation to the
Oops, my comments about the IN-3 were meant to be about the IN-6 (all of
those IN numbers mix up in my head sometimes. :) ).. I've never used the
IN-3, they look kind of neat though. Interesting to hear that the
reliability problem occurs with them also. Also interesting to see that the
cost of IN-
Interesting. I've never used the decimal point in a nixie (only in VFD's).
I've looked at the IN-12b before and still plan on doing what you are doing
sometime. It would make sense that you will see different behavior of the
decimal point depending on if the digit is lit, although I would have
gues
I've always been a fan of using a single IN-2, set about halfway up the
height of the tubes as the "colon" separator. On some clocks, particularly
6-digit clocks, I often leave the separators off completely. I usually use
330k as the starting point for my NE-2's with a 180v supply. These neons do
n
A good point and one that I hadn't considered. It dawns on me that the
old single PA tube transceivers were protected in this way (like the
Swan Cygnet transceivers), whereas the dual PA tube transceivers were
not. When I rewired my Swan 500c from the old two 6LQ6's in series
configuration to r
An AC filament supply is usually preferable, especially in long tubes
meant to be multiplexed. If you use a DC filament supply in tubes like
these, you'll find that one side is brighter than the other. The same
thing happens with strings of smaller tubes that are run in series (one
side of the
If you need it, then you ought to run it every night.
On 12/16/2011 1:37 AM, Shaun wrote:
I assume you're doing the cathode prevention maintenance every might
just for programming convenience or does it *need* to be done every
night?
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