Nice!
I couldn’t find the KiCAD files though, can you post the link to them please. I
am currently using Designspark but I want to try KiCAD and thought this might
be a good project to start with.
/Martin
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That is crazy!
But so is life!
I’ve recently seen a lot of crazy prices for auctions that I’ve been interested
in and also a lot of bid retractions (guessing they have been placed to find
out the highest bid, from this I learned to bid late or use sniping if possible
- eBay is not your friend
The S11S1 is an experimental tube that combines an E1T with output
electrodes for all ten stages!
Just have a look here and marvel at the mechanical construction:
http://www.hts-homepage.de/DDD/S11S1.html
I'd love to have a few of those to build a clock with!
/Martin
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In the circuit with the FDMQ8205 that you refer to they are connected in a
POE circuit (Power Over Ethernet) where they make use of DC-voltages for
the power and AC-voltages via the transformers for the data-transmissions -
so the FDMQ8205 actually only work as polarity protection in that
Can you put your files here on the forum for other people to use for free?
I have a few different models of the E1T, broken ones, that I'll try to
remove the decal from as they are somewhat different depending on what year
they were manufactured and who made them.
I also have one rare model
I agree!
I too have a uTracer (but never used it) and have always had quick answers and
good help from Ronald both on the E1T and the uTracer and other things.
/Martin
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Perhaps Ronald Dekker has more information or even original decal prints that
can be used for reproduction?
/Martin
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There is a very thin lacquer layer on top of the decal that should protect it
from moisture, however it has usually cracked or been worn off over the years.
Perhaps not all E1Ts recieved this treatment.
It can sometimes be seen bubbling or flaking on poor examples like this one on
eBay right
I’ve read about people using the same kind of decals that you get with models,
the ones that you dip in water so they can slide off. I read that they can be
bought in forms that can be laser printed, or inkjet printed and they are
either printed with permanent ink or sealed with clear lacquer
Can you put a microphone up to the tube and look at the sound on a scope
while you also scope the anode voltage via an adjustable low pass filter,
or perhaps an adjustable a band pass filter, if so you might see where the
frequency comes from?
/Martin
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ed and I'll come back in a few hours and check. The test clock
> has the acrylic columns cut at 45 degrees compared to 22.5 degrees in the
> photo, so more of the back of the E1T is covered.
>
> Back later...
>
> Grahame
>
> On 18/02/2019 13:17, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
>
One of the 400V circuits is actually shown on page 172-173 in the Dance
book, just had a look.
Will you be using a preset-circuit for the E1Ts or will you just step them
up to their setting one step at a time?
>From experience I know that some of the E1Ts get extremely hot at the
heater in
ain a
> position list in the firmware and send a reset pulse to move to '0' when
> you try step beyond '9'.
>
> Thanks
>
> Grahame
> On 17/02/2019 15:17, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> Most of the components where kept identical, even the cathode resistor,
> but the resi
Most of the components where kept identical, even the cathode resistor, but
the resistor on the a1 output anode was raised to some 560k as this signal
was mostly used to directly reset the E1T via a capacitor directly to the
D' and a2 electrodes, the capacitor value was selected according to
Telefunken and other manufacturers of counters with the E1T used two simple
changes to the design to be able to adjust the circuit to be able to use
tubes with wider tolerances, the first was to run them in a design with up
to 400V anode voltage, the design was compensated for this higher
There is also this website which shows an office in the US as well as
Ukraine: https://millclock.com/contacts and a lot of phone numbers and
other means of contact.
What I am missing is the 100% openness when you ask for details.
/Martin
On Saturday, 16 February 2019 17:59:16 UTC+1, Dmitry
Don't forget that you don't want to disturb the car electronics so that you
crash your car and run someone over or hurt yourself - that's one reason
why car electronics is tested against standards.
There are a lot of good materials to be found on the Internet that chip
manufacturers like
I’ve used both versions to divide the 32768Hz signal down to 1Hz and I’ve never
seen one which didn’t output 32768Hz on that pin. I usually use a pullup of
som1-10k and then use that signal with anything from CMOS to TTL or
microprocessors like Arduinos and I’ve always gotten a very stable
Where did you buy the book? I’ve never seen an iriginal one that has been
missing any chapters. Maybe you got a reprint from one of the many places that
sell poor, and sometimes incomplete copies? There were two original books for
sale on eBay the other day.
/Martin
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Thanks for sharing photos of the insides!
Looks like it could be the original design plus some extra components
fitted for "looks" in the Artyom-watch.
/Martin
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Hi,
Just spotted this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBmZKm88-rY
I checked a few other places and only 10 of those kits have been made and
they are given away in contests that you can enter if you bought the
pre-order of the game.
Now, does anyone know who made the Nixie clock?
/martin
If you want more information on how Nixies behave in pulsed mode you should
read the book ”Winfried Müller
Elektronische Anzeigebauelemente Electronica 171”, a book from the 70’s from
the East German military publisher (DDR). It is written in German but scanning
it with OCR and then using
You can look at the Burroughs datasheet:
https://frank.pocnet.net/other/Burroughs/B5750B585X.pdf for some details on the
multiplexing of Nixies, there are some notes and also diagrams that explain the
necessary voltages and currents in relation to the multiplexing timing there. I
also know
Ok, but if you feel like going back to the faulty one, setting the alarm
register will show you if the RTC is doing what it should internally and
the data read from it is wrong (unless you make an error in programming the
alarm registers that is ;) ).
/Martin
On Thursday, 3 January 2019
What happens if you set the alarm registers to 00:00:00 at 1/1, is the alarm
triggered at rollover?
/Martin
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Any chance that you can ask Maxim about this behavior, it could be a bug in
a batch of these ic's.
Someone here on the forum had the capability of etching away the case on
ic's and looking at the chip if I remember correctly, it would be
interesting if these "fake" ic's could be sent to that
Be careful if you decide to zap it like a fuse, I have a few of these where
people tried that and blew the connecting wire instead if the segments.
I just whack them against my palm and at an angle to dislodge them, has worked
every time so far. I don’t dare to whack them against anything
Yes, you are correct, it was not easy, I almost gave up at one time.
It turns out that many of the LL-55X Nixies have manufacturing errors in
that some letters wasn't on the same pin on all identically numbered ones,
so I had to solder and re-solder some of them more than once and that gave
me
@Gregebert - So which is it, cubic zirconia or real diamond? ;)
Sometimes I am only interested in the looks but sometimes the things behind,
this time the looks. I also find it fascinating for the time and energy taken
by the designer to get the ”true” looks in this case. And as you say,
Take a look at this, which I find is a really nice project that uses "fake"
IEE NIMOs : https://www.hackster.io/paul-bricmont/nearly-nimo-clock-9309ec
/Martin
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Here's the first try, which seems to work just fine in LTSpice. I will be
using an LM741 or something similar and not the quad LT1014, just chose it
as it was available in my box of components.
/Martin
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Thanks for all suggestions, some more Googling and the ideas here and some
outside of the forum made me think of the following solution:
Connect the LDR to an op-amp (comparator) with a trimmer so that the
light/dark level can be adjusted, then connect this signal to the reset pin
of an NE555
Yes, processor = MCU.
Using an NE555 would be no problem, I'm using standard TTL for the logic of
the clock itself. I know there is one dimming circuit which uses the NE555,
this one: http://www.mcamafia.de/nixie/ncp_dt/nix_dim.htm but that doesn't
use an LDR.
If I remember correctly the
I once had a circuit diagram which used an LDR to PWM the Nixies to dim
them when it was dark. Since I had a major SSD crash some time ago I lost a
lot of files as they also were corrupt on the backups I had, the SSD had
been corrupt for some time before I realized it.
I have googled to try to
A few years ago I restored an EZ10/EZ10A/EZ10B tester, see here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/neonixie-l/elesta$20tester%7Csort:date/neonixie-l/z_XVbXeB4ks/w7njlQvKsXoJ
The currents stated on the tester for EZ10/EZ10A is 1.1mA minimum, 1.3mA
nominal and 1.6mA maximum, for the
The original circuit diagrams for Mikes NIMO designs can be found here on
Mikes webpage: https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/miscellaneous-projects/
just scroll down a bit, there you can click them to get high resolution
pictures, also the designs have thorough texts describing them. All of
I contacted Ametherm regarding inrush current limiters as I’ve used their
products to limit inrush current on toroidal transformers and they told me they
had limiters used for heat lamps and similar applications and they believed
those would work. I’ll try to order some and see how they behave.
A simple solution then would be to use one resistor, or two resistors one
in each branch, of the heater chain to maintain a centered reference
compared to ground even during startup, and a relay shorting that/those
resistors after some time - just like slow starters for toroidal
transformers
@jrehwin: If I order a transformer with 1.1V center tapped transformer with
1.2A rating for driving six NIMOs, do I have to load it with 5 ”NIMOs” if I
want to test just one NIMO?
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@gregebert: Isn’t there a risk of flash-over if you don’t use high voltage
resistors for the anode connection?
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Thank you all for your input!
@jrehwin - Thanks for explaining how "a transformer sized for the
equilibrium load" works in a circuit like this!
@gregebert - Do you have to take the fuse resistance into account in your
circuit to maintain a centered heater voltage (I guess so as the fuse
Hi,
I need help with how much current a regular mains transformer would need
for the center tapped filament winding for six NIMOs.
The filament for a NIMO is specified at 1.1V AC or DC +/-0.15V at some
0.2A. The cold resistance of the filament is some 2.1 Ohm.
Do I need to specify some
Both types are still sold on
eBay
https://www.ebay.com/sch/xtes/m.html?item=140964710736=item20d226c950%3Ag%3AxH4AAMXQ-BZQ~kIX=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
if you can't get them anywhere else.
/Martin
On Tuesday, 11 September 2018 06:55:11 UTC+2, MichaelB wrote:
>
> Looking for 3 or 4 of the
It's more like a linear Polyatron (although not far from a linear
dekatron), if you compare the circuit that I have posted here on the forum
for the A-201 Polyatron you can see the similarities between the diagrams
in the auction and the A-201 circuit. The A-201 can interface to a Nixie if
you
I forgot to write that the manufacturer is ”Plasma Labs”, the same as for the
A-201.
The note on ”long pins” in the auction is probably due to the fact that you
often see comments on ”short pins” and ”broken pins” for the IN-20 on Russian
forums!
/Martin
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They are probably used, the pins are shorter than on unused tubes, they are of
equal length on new tubes. It also looks like the single mounting pin in the
opposite end is missing, this sometimes leads to gas leaks as the glass breaks
easily when that pin has been cut off.
They are similar to
Nice!
Have you made any tests to remove/reduce the ghosting between the digits?
/Martin
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Have you checked out this
website: http://www.155la3.ru/electroluminescent.htm it is in Russian but
Google Translate is your friend! I tested a few of the thyristor and simple
transformer designs and they work very well.
Unfortunately most of the EL-displays sold by Russian sellers seems to be
Some VFDs can be revived, I did that with the displays on a few HP34401a’s and
other HP instruments that I bought with dim and uneven segments. Just Google on
how to revive them.
/Martin
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To
I haven't used exactly these kinds of paints but others, hobby models, and
there I warmed the fluid and the item I was painting so that the drying
would go faster, just make sure that you use a temperature that the
manufacturer guarantees their product to work with. I also had to protect
from
Thanks for the frequency information!
You need to increase the value of C5E and C6E to increase the pulse length
and increase the bias voltage on R9E & R10E to match values in driving
circuits for the GS10C. From the voltage levels shown in your second photo
I guess that the pulse voltage is
@Roland: Do you know what the frequency is at pin 6 (Anode) of the triode
V1B?
/Martin
On Monday, 11 June 2018 15:41:55 UTC+2, Roland wrote:
>
> Here you can see the dekatron circuit and the oscillator.
> Dekatron cathode voltages are clamped between -20V and +12V.
> Oscillator cuitcuit and
Yes, I was also thinking about the differences in the driving conditions
for these dekatrons, and the possibility of adding, or changing, the
driving conditions.
/Martin
On Tuesday, 5 June 2018 23:20:23 UTC+2, Jon wrote:
>
> Hi Roland,
>
> Good to see you here. Can you say anything about the
Hi,
Can someone please send me the complete circuit diagrams for these Anitas, or
point me to somewhere where I can download them? I’d like to have a look at the
circuit surrounding the GS10D.
/Martin
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If I am not wrong someone here on the forum said that they had removed the
case from the LM9022 to have a peek at the chip inside (could have been
many years ago this was done). I wonder if someone has made the same trick
with these new chips?
/Martin
@Dmitry: A photo of the actual chip used
Absolutely lovely!
/Martin
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Can you show any photos of the new chip, not only the whole wafer but the
also a single chip in good resolution?
What factory made the wafers and the chips and what factory put them in the
SOIC capsules?
/Martin
On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 19:38:38 UTC+2, Dmitry Shevchenko wrote:
>
> 4" wafer
So the die wafers were produced recently, in last year or this year?
/Martin
On Tuesday, 10 April 2018 13:06:26 UTC+2, Dmitry Shevchenko wrote:
>
> *I have a few questions about these ic’s that I hope you can answer: *
> *Which company is manufacturing these ic’s?*
>
> My company
> Details
>
A second one from the same
seller:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nixie-Tube-Rohre-Rodan-CD47-Gr-414-OKAYA/183157694930?hash=item2aa50ca1d2:g:YS0AAOSwxa9awS~T
first one sold for Euro 500,50! No feedback yet.
/Martin
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It's bank transfer and no Paypal, I'd be a bit wary then.
/Martin
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To
The date is printed on the datasheets at the bottom left, on my SZ-3 it
says 16th of March 1967 and on the SZ-2 it says 30th of December 1968.
I have one with cathodes that I have tried to "wake up" but they quickly go
back to non working after some time without use, it looks like the cathodes
Well, if you are a collector you might add one or two to your collection at
the current price, they don't come up that often, but the internal wiring
is easily damaged - and I suspect that the seller will soon become aware of
what I know of these Nixies and he might go down on the price! The
I've bought a few of these and other similar types for just RMB 25 from
China, the digit height is only 33mm, I had the datasheet translated by a
friend, it says so at the end of the datasheet and I can confirm it from
the tubes I have.
They are very fragile inside as the wires connecting the
Using Google Translate on their Facebook text you can see that they had to
raise the voltage to some 500V for Xenon and 400V for Argon, if I
understand it correctly they also mention that they are looking for a
developer. Maybe it is time to ask them what they plan and how they are
doing this?
Just spotted these from the same seller, one front view CD727 with +/-
signs, one GR1620 with Kg, two differently numbered CD47/GR414
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nixie-Tube-Rodan-GR727-IKZ-OKAYA/222862359062?hash=item33e3a1ba16:g:OqsAAOSwMS1amD6G
The SN75468 or SN75469 are two of my favourites, hooking up the COM pin to
some 60V via a resistor divider or zener and resistor works beautifully.
I've seen it used with Burroughs Nixies and Burroughs Bar Graph displays.
It has been used by a bunch of people here too.
/Martin
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Have you asked Microchip what they think about the use? They have always
been very helpful when I have asked them about their ic's and the ratings.
/Martin
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Ok, I have Acrobat Pro but I never get the results that I want when I try
to do the same procedure. What, and how, do you do in the last three steps
"optimise them, OCR the result and to set the metadata.", maybe I am doing
something wrong. the problem I stumble upon the most is that the OCR is
Nice!
Can you share how you made the PDF?
/Martin
On Sunday, 21 January 2018 08:32:48 UTC+1, Nick wrote:
>
> I've created a properly optimised and searchable PDF with the correct
> metadata from the JPGs below which can be found in the group library under
> *Nixie
> Tube Data -> Application
Another document on multiplexing can be found
here: http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/ZM1200_valvo.pdf it
shows how the Pandicon, the ZM1200 series of Nixies, designs should be made
to get them to work properly. It shows a string of zeners in the power
supply section that
You can also read about multiplexing Nixies
here: https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/ starting with
the text "*Nothing Turns-ON Instantaneously"*
/Martin
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I can recommend reading the Burroughs document N101 on multiplexing Nixies
which can be found here, if you haven't done so
already: http://worldpowersystems.com/ARCHIVE/Burroughs/index.html .
/Martin
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There are some nice photos in the auction showing the insides, I've never
seen the insides of this clock before so that was a nice extra!
/Martin
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Here's a nice organ to build a copy
of: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=121108 , but maybe
nothing for the beginner though
/Martin
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Thanks for the link on the TI document.
I agree that in this particular circumstance it is probably not a latchup
condition.
In one specific case I came across recently I never dug deep enough to
check if it was a proper latchup or not but it certainly looked like it as
it pulled the 5V line
I don't know anything about this clock in particular but I have come across
several other designs where a mix of TTL ic's, CMOS ic's and other ic's
with different VCC capabilities has been used, some starting to operate
from as low as 1.8V and some like TTL above 4.75V, but all capable of
Nice!
I like the simple design!
Will this circuit work just as well with the Telefunken XM1000?
/Martin
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They are quite easy to drive, have a look at a minimalistic clock
here: https://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1916607#p1916607 there is s
full schematic and also the hex code for the processor. When I found this
design I wrote about it over at TubeClockDB
here:
The fight for the other auction from the same seller with two Ericsson (ETL)
GR10W was a bit harder!
/Martin
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If you look carefully at the photo of all four tubes you can see that the
one to the right has a different label than the other three, it also has a
date code on that label which the other three are missing. My guess is that
the three with the same label have another type of bakelite socket
nd 64 x MPSA42 transistors.
>>
>>
>> Am Mittwoch, 27. September 2017 21:51:31 UTC+2 schrieb Dekatron42:
>>>
>>> What are those IC's on the board with the 2N7000?
>>>
>>> /Martin
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 20:48
What are those IC's on the board with the 2N7000?
/Martin
On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 20:48:08 UTC+2, newxito wrote:
>
> I agree 100%, it must be an ESD problem, these things are really fragile,
> even on a breadboard circuit just touching 2 or 3 times the gate kills the
> 2n7000. I think I
Have you written to Wired and asked them to look into this? It might be
worth a try!
/Martin
On Sunday, 20 August 2017 09:40:58 UTC+2, Manuel Azevedo wrote:
>
> I wish that magazines like Wired would pickup on these stories and would
> expose how GSP is destroying these vintage pieces.
>
>
>
Nice small form factor!
Will it be possible to hook up an external doubler/tripler?
Will you make an isolated version in the future (input/output isolation)?
/Martin
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Someone once told me that you could ask for up to 450V output voltage from
the small Nixies PSUs (1363 & 1364) that are sold at Tayloredge
(www.tayloredge.com) but I've never asked for that myself, but it might be
worth checking.
/Martin
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The Leybold 55962 was used in Physics classes in school to measure time
events, there are two plugin modules and a few other extra items that was
used with the unit.
/Martin
On Monday, 3 July 2017 17:46:33 UTC+2, Paolo Cravero wrote:
>
> Hello.
> While walking around an electronics flea
I believe that it is the same symptom as the "blue dot" effect in Nixies,
you can read about "The Infamous “Blue Dot”:" a bit down on Michael
Moorrees webpage: https://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/ .
I've seen both orange and blue dots on several Nixies. I recently had
orange
You can find a lot of good information with maths and circuits on Ronald
Dekker's website http://www.dos4ever.com/flyback/flyback.html, also check
out his 90V Anode battery.
/Martin
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I know of these problem from personal experience, GSP cancelled shipping on
items I bought and reimbursed me and the seller, sometimes part of the
shipment has disappeared when passing through the GSP shipping sites as the
items have been inspected and repacked (not only electronics but items
PM Components have some at GBP £12.95, at least they list them as in stock
here: http://pmcomponentsnos.co.uk/Rodan-CD4
/Martin
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Looking closely at the photos with the digits in auction 112434355542 it
looks like there is a lot of corrosion on the metal digits, there are a lot
of white and grey areas - does anyone know what it is and how it affects
expected lifetime of these Nixies?
In the other auction 322547684051
I added a few other Chinese dekatrons to my Youtube channel : OQ-1 (B8G and
octal socket), OQ-4, OQ-5, OQ-301, OQ-304, OQ-310. They are similar to the
GC10B, GC10/4B, GC10D and Z504S.
/Martin
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I've made a short movie of an old Chinese prototype dekatron that is
running, you can see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bshAbg3yxa0
and some time ago I also made a movie of a NEC DK32 dekatron running
here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hpz16OkbAFg. There will be more short
movies
Try to raise the voltage, if possible on that clock, that might move the
glow up to the digit instead of the wire leading up to the digit.
/Martin
On Thursday, 1 June 2017 22:42:52 UTC+2, Roddy Scott wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I have a little IN-8 clock that was unplugged a couple of days ago and
>
It says "In order to obviate..." on page 3 where it explains that function
in a short text. Here's another explanation of the
use https://www.kimballphysics.com/PDFs/general_options_pulsing_blanking.pdf.
You can leave the beam turned on, not turned off by the grid or by other
means, and have
Here's a site that explains the
phenomena: http://www.g3ynh.info/disch_tube/lamp/flame_neon.html
/Martin
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I only know that Burroughs mentions the B5750/B5755 and B5850/5755 in the
Application note "Multiplexed operation of NIXIE tubes" #N101 at the end of
page 3 where they talk about somewhat higher gas pressure to reduce
sputtering and to achieve other things to get these Nixies to work better
You can find a PDF-file on the IN-9 & IN-13, from a Russian book, with the
original Russian and a translation made with Google Translate
here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2XLFMydwkBgc2lhSEk5WXgxLXc in the
TEMP folder here at the forum.
In most designs that I've seen in Russian books the
Just be careful when testing the displays as Burroughs warns that you can
destroy it quite easily if you overload it for just a short time - timing
is not extremely strict but running them incorrectly will damage the small
glow cells fast.
Can you post more photos of the back and front of your
I uploaded a bunch of Burroughs documents and datasheets on the Self-Scan
displays in the forum TEMP folder, go have a look and download the file and
see if it will be of any help to you to get your display up and running.
/Martin
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