Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[aajawo]

Factory manual says spark plug gap spec is 0.8  to 0.9 mm (0.031 - 0.035 in)

On Monday, August 5, 2019 at 10:17:15 AM UTC-6, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> I don't remember off hand but it's in the service manual. I just posted a 
> link to those in another thread.
>
> On Mon, Aug 5, 2019, 11:06 Jenya Spektor > 
> wrote:
>
>> Good morning,
>> What should be a gap for the new set of the NGK standard spark plugs? 
>> Thanks again.
>> J
>>
>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:58:13 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>
>>> I did - and it was firing when against the engine block. 
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>>> hol...@shadowbrush.com > wrote:
>>>
>>> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan 
>>> wrote:

 Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. 
 If you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder 
 and you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside 
 the 
 jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Tommy Hill]

Mine have always been plug and play. pregapped. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

I don't remember off hand but it's in the service manual. I just posted a
link to those in another thread.

On Mon, Aug 5, 2019, 11:06 Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Good morning,
> What should be a gap for the new set of the NGK standard spark plugs?
> Thanks again.
> J
>
> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:58:13 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> I did - and it was firing when against the engine block.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>>
>> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
>>
>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder.
>>> If you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder
>>> and you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the
>>> jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel.
>>>
>> --
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>> 
>> .
>>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

Good morning,
What should be a gap for the new set of the NGK standard spark plugs? 
Thanks again.
J

On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:58:13 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>
> I did - and it was firing when against the engine block. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan  
> wrote:
>
> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
>
> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan 
> wrote:
>>
>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If 
>> you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and 
>> you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the 
>> jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

I did - and it was firing when against the engine block. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan  
> wrote:
> 
> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
> 
>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan wrote:
>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If 
>> you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and 
>> you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the jug. 
>> You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Holger Selover-Stephan]

Time for a beer!!!

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 1:53 PM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
> 
> It’s actually the spark plug - just swapped it with a new one and viola - the 
> header is hot and we are in business. Thank you guys- you advice and time is 
> much appreciated

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

It’s actually the spark plug - just swapped it with a new one and viola - the 
header is hot and we are in business. Thank you guys- you advice and time is 
much appreciated

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> I would still swap #3 carb with one of the others in the same bank just to be 
> sure
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 4:12 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> So comrades - it is the cylinder or related issue. Just swapped the 3rd carb 
>> with a spare one and the story is the same. So what can I do with my limited 
>> resources and troubleshoot the problem with the engine/cylinder? Thanks
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 2, 2019, at 9:52 AM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it. 
>>> Does that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?
>>> 
 On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
 Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
 
 
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers  
> wrote:
 
 
> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  
>> wrote:
>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a 
>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be 
>> the culprit, correct?
>> Let me know.
>> J
>> 
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
>>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also 
>>> switches
>>> 
 On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
 If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more 
 possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were 
 clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned 
 and blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.  
 
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>>> 
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>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
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> 
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>> 
 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Holger Selover-Stephan]

I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"

On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan wrote:
>
> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If 
> you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and 
> you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the 
> jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Holger Selover-Stephan]

Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If you 
ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and you 
pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the jug. You 
reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 

Have you tried injecting gas directly into this carb and tested the cylinder 
temp?

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 1:16 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> I would still swap #3 carb with one of the others in the same bank just to be 
> sure

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

I would still swap #3 carb with one of the others in the same bank just to
be sure

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 4:12 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> So comrades - it is the cylinder or related issue. Just swapped the 3rd
> carb with a spare one and the story is the same. So what can I do with my
> limited resources and troubleshoot the problem with the engine/cylinder?
> Thanks
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 2, 2019, at 9:52 AM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>
> Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it.
> Does that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and
 see.
 Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
 spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
 culprit, correct?
 Let me know.
 J

 On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers <
 grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
> switches
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>>
>> --
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>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com
>> .
>>
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> 
> .
>


 --
 Jenya Spektor
 917.202.3080

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>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
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>> 917.202.3080
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

So comrades - it is the cylinder or related issue. Just swapped the 3rd carb 
with a spare one and the story is the same. So what can I do with my limited 
resources and troubleshoot the problem with the engine/cylinder? Thanks

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 9:52 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> 
> Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it. Does 
> that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>>> 
 On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
 Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
 Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a 
 spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the 
 culprit, correct?
 Let me know.
 J
 
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers  
> wrote:
 
 
> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also 
> switches
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more 
>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were 
>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and 
>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.  
>> 
>> -- 
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> 
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 917.202.3080
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>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it.
Does that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
>>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
>>> culprit, correct?
>>> Let me know.
>>> J
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
 switches

 On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:

> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>
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> .
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 .

>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jenya Spektor
>>> 917.202.3080
>>>
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>>>
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>> .
>>
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).


On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
>> culprit, correct?
>> Let me know.
>> J
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
>>> switches
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>>
 If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
 possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
 clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
 blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.

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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
> culprit, correct?
> Let me know.
> J
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
>> switches
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>
>>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
>>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
>>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
>>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com
>>> .
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
culprit, correct?
Let me know.
J

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
> switches
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> .
>>
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> 
> .
>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
switches

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:

> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Tommy Hill]

If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more possibility. In 
the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were clogged and ran like 
crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and blown out (his third try!) 
it finally ran like brand new.  

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

Good morning. Took off the carbs. Took off 3 from the rack. Cleaned it 
thoroughly. Back on and still no luck. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking of taking off the spark plug and trying to hand crank it to see 
if the cylinder comes up and what is the state of the said cylinder.
What else?
Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Doug Jones  wrote:
> 
> Jenya
> 
> I would think that it would have to be fuel not getting to the 
> cylinder. Did you try spraying a little starting fluid into the third 
> carburetor? I wonder if that could get it to sputterDid you clean the 
> carbs? I put mine into a Sonic Cleaner with Carb cleaner to get the circuits 
> clean.
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> DJ 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 31, 2019 at 11:03 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> 
>> Doug,
>> Thanks for the guidance on the non-working cylinder. I had removed the spark 
>> plug - it works. The compression is above 100 when I checked.
>> The plug itself is looking good as well - no weird deposits or discoloration.
>> Could not see the top of the piston. So you had mentioned it might be fuel - 
>> meaning the 3rd carb is not doing what it is supposed to do, correct?
>> Or is it something else?
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 10:14 AM Doug Jones  wrote:
>>> If I suspected that one of the cylinders was not firing I would remove the 
>>> spark plug and lay it on the engine making a good ground and just press the 
>>> starter button seeing if I could see a spark in the plug gap. if not either 
>>> bad plug, wire or coil. then shine a light down into the cylinder to see if 
>>> there isn't a bad piston (hole in the top).
>>> If you get spark and you compression test the cylinder and it is good then 
>>> its fuel...
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:51 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
 I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose. 
 Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
 Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the 
 header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float 
 needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings 
 blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
 Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
 And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future 
 to troubleshoot things.
 J
 
 
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones  wrote:
> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs 
> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and 
> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for 
> voltage on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened 
> the box up and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity 
> attaching one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner 
> of the box) and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. 
> when I went to the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It 
> turns out the prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was 
> MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When I took out the fuse and tested one side of 
> the prong BEEP and on the other side of the prong that touched the fuse 
> Nothing.
> 
> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the 
> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did 
> this my horn and signals worked. 
> 
> I hope this helped.
> 
>> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact 
>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame 
>> or the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come 
>> in contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing. 
>> 
>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms) 
>> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching 
>> the test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the 
>> probes are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, 
>> depends on the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same 
>> wire it should read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a 
>> break in that circuit somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test 
>> for resistance between red/black and brown/white with one of the solid 
>> browns. With the key in the off position you should have infinite 
>> resistance for those two pairs since the circuit is open. When the key 
>> in the On position you should have 0 resistance between red/black, and 
>> the brown/white and one of the Browns. In the Park position you should 
>> 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Doug Jones]

If I suspected that one of the cylinders was not firing I would remove the
spark plug and lay it on the engine making a good ground and just press the
starter button seeing if I could see a spark in the plug gap. if not either
bad plug, wire or coil. then shine a light down into the cylinder to see if
there isn't a bad piston (hole in the top).
If you get spark and you compression test the cylinder and it is good then
its fuel...

Hope this helps

On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:51 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose.
> Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
> Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the
> header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float
> needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings
> blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
> Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
> And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future
> to troubleshoot things.
> J
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones  wrote:
>
>> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs
>> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and
>> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for voltage
>> on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened the box up
>> and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity attaching
>> one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner of the box)
>> and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. when I went to
>> the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It turns out the
>> prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When
>> I took out the fuse and tested one side of the prong BEEP and on the other
>> side of the prong that touched the fuse Nothing.
>>
>> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the
>> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did
>> this my horn and signals worked.
>>
>> I hope this helped.
>>
>> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>>
>>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact
>>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame or
>>> the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come in
>>> contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing.
>>>
>>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms)
>>> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching the
>>> test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the probes
>>> are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, depends on
>>> the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same wire it should
>>> read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a break in that circuit
>>> somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test for resistance between
>>> red/black and brown/white with one of the solid browns. With the key in the
>>> off position you should have infinite resistance for those two pairs since
>>> the circuit is open. When the key in the On position you should have 0
>>> resistance between red/black, and the brown/white and one of the Browns. In
>>> the Park position you should have 0 resistance with the other Brown.
>>>
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:19 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Kyle,
 How to check properly for the voltage coming into the switch or the
 fuse box? Stick the positive prong of the multimeter onto the open part of
 the wire? Or inside of the plastic plug? As you can sense I am new to
 anything electrical (and should not have even started to mss around with
 the bike in the first place).
 Thanks, J

 On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:32 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> You're going to need a multimeter. There's a table at the bottom left
> of the wiring diagram that shows which circuits are closed/open in the
> different positions of the switch. The fuseblock and ignition switch and
> main fuse are all quick/easy things to check, but if they don't turn up
> anything it's best to grab the diagram and methodically check things step
> by step. I usually start at the battery, make sure it has a good ground
> then go off the positive terminal and test each step for voltage. The
> starter relay, the red wire going to the fuse block, both sides of the
> fuse, the red wire coming out of the fuseblock into the ignition switch,
> and so on. Also, the dark green wires are the ground circuit, make sure
> that circuit is still grounded to the frame. Also to clarify, when you say
> no power you mean no lights or anything right? Not just no cranking?
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 6:33 AM Jenya 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose.
Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the
header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float
needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings
blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future
to troubleshoot things.
J


On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones  wrote:

> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs
> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and
> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for voltage
> on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened the box up
> and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity attaching
> one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner of the box)
> and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. when I went to
> the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It turns out the
> prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When
> I took out the fuse and tested one side of the prong BEEP and on the other
> side of the prong that touched the fuse Nothing.
>
> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the
> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did
> this my horn and signals worked.
>
> I hope this helped.
>
> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>
>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact
>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame or
>> the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come in
>> contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing.
>>
>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms)
>> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching the
>> test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the probes
>> are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, depends on
>> the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same wire it should
>> read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a break in that circuit
>> somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test for resistance between
>> red/black and brown/white with one of the solid browns. With the key in the
>> off position you should have infinite resistance for those two pairs since
>> the circuit is open. When the key in the On position you should have 0
>> resistance between red/black, and the brown/white and one of the Browns. In
>> the Park position you should have 0 resistance with the other Brown.
>>
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:19 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Kyle,
>>> How to check properly for the voltage coming into the switch or the fuse
>>> box? Stick the positive prong of the multimeter onto the open part of the
>>> wire? Or inside of the plastic plug? As you can sense I am new to anything
>>> electrical (and should not have even started to mss around with the bike in
>>> the first place).
>>> Thanks, J
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:32 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
 You're going to need a multimeter. There's a table at the bottom left
 of the wiring diagram that shows which circuits are closed/open in the
 different positions of the switch. The fuseblock and ignition switch and
 main fuse are all quick/easy things to check, but if they don't turn up
 anything it's best to grab the diagram and methodically check things step
 by step. I usually start at the battery, make sure it has a good ground
 then go off the positive terminal and test each step for voltage. The
 starter relay, the red wire going to the fuse block, both sides of the
 fuse, the red wire coming out of the fuseblock into the ignition switch,
 and so on. Also, the dark green wires are the ground circuit, make sure
 that circuit is still grounded to the frame. Also to clarify, when you say
 no power you mean no lights or anything right? Not just no cranking?

 -Kyle


 On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 6:33 AM Jenya Spektor 
 wrote:

> Did do everything you guys suggested. The fuse box looked very clean
> and all the connections are very snug (see pics). Replaced the fuses with 
> a
> new set. Connected the plugs back in - still no power.
> I am thinking the ignition switch?(since I did tug on the wires, maybe
> they got dislodged inside the ignition switch housing?).
> What else should I do if that is not the case? Thanks as always.
>
>
> [image: image1.jpeg]
> Sent from my iPhone[image: image2.jpeg]
>
> On Jul 24, 2019, at 2:19 PM, Graham Rogers 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Doug Jones]

I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs 
looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and 
tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for voltage 
on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened the box up 
and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity attaching 
one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner of the box) 
and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. when I went to 
the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It turns out the 
prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When 
I took out the fuse and tested one side of the prong BEEP and on the other 
side of the prong that touched the fuse Nothing.

So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the 
fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did 
this my horn and signals worked. 

I hope this helped.

On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact 
> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame or 
> the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come in 
> contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing. 
>
> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms) 
> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching the 
> test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the probes 
> are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, depends on 
> the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same wire it should 
> read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a break in that circuit 
> somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test for resistance between 
> red/black and brown/white with one of the solid browns. With the key in the 
> off position you should have infinite resistance for those two pairs since 
> the circuit is open. When the key in the On position you should have 0 
> resistance between red/black, and the brown/white and one of the Browns. In 
> the Park position you should have 0 resistance with the other Brown. 
>
>
> -Kyle 
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:19 PM Jenya Spektor  > wrote:
>
>> Kyle,
>> How to check properly for the voltage coming into the switch or the fuse 
>> box? Stick the positive prong of the multimeter onto the open part of the 
>> wire? Or inside of the plastic plug? As you can sense I am new to anything 
>> electrical (and should not have even started to mss around with the bike in 
>> the first place).
>> Thanks, J
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:32 AM Kyle Munz > 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You're going to need a multimeter. There's a table at the bottom left of 
>>> the wiring diagram that shows which circuits are closed/open in the 
>>> different positions of the switch. The fuseblock and ignition switch and 
>>> main fuse are all quick/easy things to check, but if they don't turn up 
>>> anything it's best to grab the diagram and methodically check things step 
>>> by step. I usually start at the battery, make sure it has a good ground 
>>> then go off the positive terminal and test each step for voltage. The 
>>> starter relay, the red wire going to the fuse block, both sides of the 
>>> fuse, the red wire coming out of the fuseblock into the ignition switch, 
>>> and so on. Also, the dark green wires are the ground circuit, make sure 
>>> that circuit is still grounded to the frame. Also to clarify, when you say 
>>> no power you mean no lights or anything right? Not just no cranking?
>>>
>>> -Kyle 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 6:33 AM Jenya Spektor >> > wrote:
>>>
 Did do everything you guys suggested. The fuse box looked very clean 
 and all the connections are very snug (see pics). Replaced the fuses with 
 a 
 new set. Connected the plugs back in - still no power.  
 I am thinking the ignition switch?(since I did tug on the wires, maybe 
 they got dislodged inside the ignition switch housing?).
 What else should I do if that is not the case? Thanks as always.


 [image: image1.jpeg]
 Sent from my iPhone[image: image2.jpeg]

 On Jul 24, 2019, at 2:19 PM, Graham Rogers >>> > wrote:

 Try just jiggling fuses in place, see if anything lights up

 On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:17 PM Jenya Spektor >>> > wrote:

> I did check the fuse at solenoid - seems to be ok. I had replaced it a 
> few moth back and it seems to be ok.
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Graham Rogers  > wrote:
>
>> The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. 
>> That’s where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 by 
>> thickening the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of aluminum over 
>> each prong and pushed the fuses in place.
>> 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Holger Selover-Stephan]

Looks good. Also use some contact cleaner (i.e. CRC QD Electronic Cleaner). 
Could definitely be the ignition switch. In fact, that's where I'd have 
looked first, since it has moving parts and is somewhat exposed to the 
elements. You can hotwire it to see if you get power that way. 

Holger

On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 4:33:04 AM UTC-7, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>
> Did do everything you guys suggested. The fuse box looked very clean and 
> all the connections are very snug (see pics). Replaced the fuses with a new 
> set. Connected the plugs back in - still no power.  
> I am thinking the ignition switch?(since I did tug on the wires, maybe 
> they got dislodged inside the ignition switch housing?).
> What else should I do if that is not the case? Thanks as always.
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

Try just jiggling fuses in place, see if anything lights up

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:17 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> I did check the fuse at solenoid - seems to be ok. I had replaced it a few
> moth back and it seems to be ok.
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. That’s
>> where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 by thickening
>> the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of aluminum over each prong and
>> pushed the fuses in place.
>> However if you have no power at all, check the fuse at the solenoid
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>>> fuseblock.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Power no more...
 I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
 and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
 single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
 from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
 put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
 (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
 components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
 turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
 I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all
 the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
 insulation.
 The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
 to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
 Questions:
 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
 could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
 power completely off?
 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
 have no power?
 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
 coming back on?

 Appreciate any feedback.
 Jenya

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> --
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> 917.202.3080
>
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> 
> .
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

I did check the fuse at solenoid - seems to be ok. I had replaced it a few
moth back and it seems to be ok.

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. That’s
> where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 by thickening
> the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of aluminum over each prong and
> pushed the fuses in place.
> However if you have no power at all, check the fuse at the solenoid
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>> fuseblock.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Power no more...
>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>> insulation.
>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>> power completely off?
>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>> have no power?
>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>> coming back on?
>>>
>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/b4523da8-6ba2-48eb-a753-028f44baa4fb%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>>
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> .
>


-- 
Jenya Spektor
917.202.3080

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Graham Rogers]

The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. That’s
where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 by thickening
the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of aluminum over each prong and
pushed the fuses in place.
However if you have no power at all, check the fuse at the solenoid

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and the
> plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires it's
> possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
> fuseblock.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Power no more...
>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and
>> running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single
>> all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from
>> the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on
>> the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets
>> were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back
>> on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the
>> ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>> insulation.
>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>> Questions:
>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>> power completely off?
>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>> have no power?
>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>> coming back on?
>>
>> Appreciate any feedback.
>> Jenya
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

Don't go ordering a replacement fuse block yet, we haven't determined if
your current one is bad or if there's another cause for your bike's
electronics dying. Considering they all worked before and it was some
jostling and and unplugging that led to the current situation it's likely
that everything is fine and just got plugged back in improperly or needs to
be reseated.
As far as replacing with a non-OEM or relocating it under the seat...
Either way you're making drastic changes to the wiring harness at that
point. Wires would have to be extended and/or reterminated for that. I
haven't really looked into doing that myself to say what's involved. Maybe
it will reach as-is, or maybe you need to build a new harness from scratch,
I couldn't say.

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 11:16 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> A question - if the fuse box is no good, can I install one of those new
> fuse boxes and replace the old one? The only difficulty is the fact that
> all the plastic connectors from the ignition, the gages, etc. plug into the
> original fuse box.
> How would I go about relocating the fuse box/panel to under the seat
> location?
> Thanks again.
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:42 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and
>> rebuild it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get
>> loose and no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars
>> out and sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
>> screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
>> firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
>>> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
>>> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
>>> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
 The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
 the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
 it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
 red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
 fuseblock.

 -Kyle


 On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
 wrote:

> Power no more...
> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all
> the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
> insulation.
> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses
> seem to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
> Questions:
> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
> power completely off?
> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
> have no power?
> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
> coming back on?
>
> Appreciate any feedback.
> Jenya
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

A question - if the fuse box is no good, can I install one of those new
fuse boxes and replace the old one? The only difficulty is the fact that
all the plastic connectors from the ignition, the gages, etc. plug into the
original fuse box.
How would I go about relocating the fuse box/panel to under the seat
location?
Thanks again.

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:42 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and rebuild
> it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get loose and
> no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars out and
> sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
> screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
> firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
>> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
>> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
>> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
>> Jenya
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>>> fuseblock.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Power no more...
 I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
 and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
 single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
 from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
 put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
 (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
 components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
 turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
 I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all
 the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
 insulation.
 The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
 to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
 Questions:
 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
 could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
 power completely off?
 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
 have no power?
 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
 coming back on?

 Appreciate any feedback.
 Jenya

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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> 
>> .
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and rebuild
it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get loose and
no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars out and
sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
> Jenya
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>> fuseblock.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Power no more...
>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>> insulation.
>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>> power completely off?
>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>> have no power?
>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>> coming back on?
>>>
>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/b4523da8-6ba2-48eb-a753-028f44baa4fb%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/CAJARLXXdJBzOvU451JwT3PsA249Rc%3DGAhXo0ZXis%3D_1QVe_StA%40mail.gmail.com
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/CAAumPSfjQ0VZA3Puf_YvxXYdbKpOOtC2rEOMFO4hD62t86p8vQ%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Jenya Spektor]

Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
Jenya

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and the
> plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires it's
> possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
> fuseblock.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Power no more...
>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and
>> running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single
>> all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from
>> the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on
>> the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets
>> were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back
>> on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the
>> ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>> insulation.
>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>> Questions:
>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>> power completely off?
>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>> have no power?
>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>> coming back on?
>>
>> Appreciate any feedback.
>> Jenya
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/b4523da8-6ba2-48eb-a753-028f44baa4fb%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
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> 
> .
>


-- 
Jenya Spektor
917.202.3080

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

[Kyle Munz]

The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and the
plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires it's
possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
fuseblock.

-Kyle


On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Power no more...
> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and
> running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single
> all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from
> the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on
> the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets
> were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back
> on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the
> ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
> insulation.
> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem to
> be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
> Questions:
> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
> power completely off?
> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to have
> no power?
> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from coming
> back on?
>
> Appreciate any feedback.
> Jenya
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/b4523da8-6ba2-48eb-a753-028f44baa4fb%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>

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