I have a couple of bikes setup with 42/29 chainrings on 94BCD cranks and
either 11-34 or 11-36 cassette. I find 42-11 quite a big enough gear - I
can pedal it up to ~50kph without problem, and 29-34 or 29-36 can get me up
some pretty long steep climbs also without problem.
Nick Payne
--
You
Garth - Thank you for the explanation, I'd only use the 40-tooth cog with
the 26-tooth chainring, I'm in a fairly hilly region and not the strongest
rider.
Planning to pull my V/O wide double from my parts bin for this project.
Would be nice to find a 42-tooth outer ring for that crankset.
OT: Yeah, 46-11 is a lot. It really depends on the terrain you ride but for
where I live (fairly hilly) I’ve found that 42 front and 11-36 rear hits
the sweet spot for commuting. With an 11-36 cassette I only occasionally
find myself wanting a lower range every once in a while and I would say
I forgot the gear inch link here :
https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS=26,46=11,13,15,18,22,27,33,40=2330=90=2.6=KMH=gearInches
As you can see, the 46-11 is comically large, shame on all the parts mfg
for offering so few usable choices.
On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 1:07:26 PM UTC-4
Scott, the RD total capacity is the sum of the difference between the high
and low of the cassette and the crank. So 29 for the cassette and 20 for
the crank = 49. While this exceeds the capacity, you can get away with
using it "if" you don't run the 46t ring and the 40t cog, which you
Get the triple. Unless you have some particular physical concerns or
unique pedaling style that needs to be addressed with a specific
crank, q-factor is irrelevant.
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On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Jock Scott ebko...@gmail.com wrote:
Get the triple. Unless you have some particular physical concerns or
unique pedaling style that needs to be addressed with a specific
crank, q-factor is irrelevant.
Irrelevant to what? Some people feel more comfortable and
Thanks, that's it! This shows just your own text. I generally cut out all
the irrelevant quoted text and leave just the paragraphs my own response
replies to. I've had some RBW mss with entire 3-day threads attached.
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 4:01 PM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
Drive train question: Shimano vs. Sram
I have both in 9 speed versions (Sram red 11-34 and Shimano xtr
11-32). Both are great. I'm replacing most cassettes with Sram
sram chains because they are easier to change (chain) and the price is
a little better. Nine speeds are a little sturdier
That's what it's all about! Being content with what you have... Then
again, it's not being content what allows you to improve and discover
new truths. That is how I found RBW... by refusing to be content...
Then again... :-D
I'm very happy to have found this group; lots of different experiences
I'm with you man.This thread is way over my head, but i'm ok with
that! :D
On Nov 16, 5:28 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
After trying to follow this thread, I'm content to be stuck in my 7
speed, friction shifted little corner of the world.
Angus
On Nov 15, 10:10 pm,
on one of the bikes.
From: newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, November 16, 2009 9:03:53 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain question... AHH with 9 vs 10 speeds...
I'm with you man
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 8:00 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
LOL!!!
What does efficiently bottom trimming mean?
It means (a) keeping a bottom pull front derailleur from rubbing on a
chainring, and (b) cutting off the excessive quoted text in a long-lasting
thread. Thanks for
I'm not sure what you mean... I don't do anything... just hit reply and
write my answer. In my browser all I see after my post is a link that says -
Show quoted text - , but no text is displaying. Is there something I need to
do differently?
However, I can see the quoted text in your response...
Perhaps it's just me and my computer. Many replies to long threads
will drag the entire tail-history of the thread along with them, so
that, to reach the delete button or simply to see if there are any
other new nuggets of information means scrolling down for a yard or
more. I personally follow
On Mon, Nov 16, 2009 at 4:58 PM, Jim M. mather...@gmail.com wrote:
For the cheapest option, I think, get the triple crank and make it a
double. That way you don't have to ditch the shifters. You could move
the outer ring to the middle position and have a 46/24 front, which
would give you a
I'm going to try to push that gap with my dura ace -- I'll let you
know how it works. I know that Gino is running a 50/28 on his Saluki
but I don't know which fd he has. He's riding the length of New
Zealand currently, or on his way there, so he may not be able to
answer right away.
On Nov 16,
Patrick,
I think I get what you mean... is this better? On my different computers,
running Safari on the Mac and IE8 on the PC, I don't see all the previous
postings but only a link. However, I do see other messages that display them
in various degrees.
Here I just deleted the whole thread, and
On Sat, 2009-11-14 at 19:53 -0800, cyclotourist wrote:
Is there enough chain wrap with the Rival rear derailer to run the XX
36T cassette? There's also an 11-32T XX cassette out there that you
could try. Presuming you don't cross-chain that could work??? You
could also go down one size to
SRAM 10s brifters, SRAM bar-ends, or XX MTB shifters will shift on the
XX cassette. If one wanted to try friction (bad idea IMO), I think a
Shimano rear derailleur would be necessary. Why you'd want to spend
several hundred dollars for a bleeding-edge cassette and then kludge
together a bunch of
On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 05:57 -0800, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
SRAM 10s brifters, SRAM bar-ends, or XX MTB shifters will shift on the
XX cassette.
That's not what SRAM's web site says. They say you need the XX
derailleur which is incompatible with brifters and requires the XX MTB
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 9:00 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 05:57 -0800, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
SRAM 10s brifters, SRAM bar-ends, or XX MTB shifters will shift on the
XX cassette.
That's not what SRAM's web site says. They say you need the XX
Regarding friction and 9 speed: I've shifted 9 and 10 speed cassettes,
both stock and home-brew (9 sp), with both down tube and Power Ratchet
friction shifters, on and off road -- no particular problem; I did not
find it any harder than with 7 or 8. Perhaps I have very sensitive and
caring
With all due respect, Patrick, and with appreciation of your advice, the you
that you mention is highly variable. I've tried to develop my high gear
climbing as you illustrate, and so far, no luck. My knee isn't happy with it. I
wish it wasn't, but it just isn't.
Back to original topic, I'm
On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 09:04 -0500, Seth Vidal wrote:
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 9:00 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On Sun, 2009-11-15 at 05:57 -0800, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
SRAM 10s brifters, SRAM bar-ends, or XX MTB shifters will shift on the
XX cassette.
Jim,
The Shimano 9 speed 12-36 cassette is already available for around
$55, although not widely yet. It is SLX level and comprised of 9
individual steel cogs, as far as I've beed able to ascert.
I've also had knee issues which is why I prefer to spin at higher
cadences when I can, and the
The Sram barend shifters are compatible with the XX components. If
anyone is interested, I'll have mine up for sale shortly. The shifting
is very smooth and crisp.
René
orthie...@yahoo.com
On 11/15/09, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
Jim,
The Shimano 9 speed 12-36 cassette is
FWIW, I've been impressed so far with the 11-32 8 speed SRAM PG-850
cassette. Very wide range, smooth shifting w/ XTR deraileur Silver
bar-ends, solid, and cheap - only $20 at my LBS.
If you're concerned about price, it seems the most affordable option
is to climb slightly easier hills four a
Rene:
Here's my 2 cents.
With bar ends (or downtube shifetrs) Anything works with anything. So, just
change your rear der and cassette for way less. My Saluki runs Chorus 10 speed
triple cranks and front der with a ShimaNo XT rear der and big pancake cogset.
It's a 9 speed and I don;t think
Rene,
I agree $593 is pretty steep.
You could also consider going to a triple crankset. I imagine that
would be well on the good side of $500!
Angus
On Nov 14, 6:51 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
Even though this may be a polarizing subject, I'd like to get solid
arguments to
I agree. $600 to get a 25 bottom gear is rather high. A 34/36 with a 28-32
700c tire gives you about a 25 low. A 24 t granny with a 28 t big cog and
the same tire gives you a 23 low. If your rd can handle a 28 t cassette it
can handle a triple if it and the chain are properly adjusted.
What sort
I wouldn't spend a whole lot trying to get a 36t cassette cog, since
that's sorta bleeding edge ($$$) right now. If you get a typical MTB
44-32-22 triple (or one of the new 36/22 doubles), you can get a super
low gear with a 32t or 34t cassette. With the usual RBW-issue Sugino,
you could do a 24t
There is bonus to the shimano other generic cassettes in that they are
available in a huge variety of gear ranges - tight ones, wide ones,
high ones, low ones, and you can even customize them without too much
trouble.The point is that you have many options with the shimano
et al stuff to
Sorry about thinking you can get a Shimano 10-speed cassette in the
range you want. However, Interloc Racing Design (IRD) does make a 10-
speed Shimano compatible cassette, although shifting might not be as
precise as with a Shimano cassette.
On Nov 14, 8:06 pm, Richard rsv...@netzero.net
Thank you all for the great responses and ideas. Here are some more
questions based on those...
- I had not considered the alternative of going to a triple crankset;
initially Mark suggested to keep the double for the lower Q factor, but I
don't know how much of an issue that would really be for
Yep, ditch the Rival shifters, cassette, rear derailleur, 10s chain.
Sounds like you have an adequate 9s cassette already. With a Deore-ish
rear derailleur, Shimano 9s bar-ends, and a 9s chain, you may keep the
double crank and be satisfied with a 34/34 low gear and spend only
$150 or so to get
Is there enough chain wrap with the Rival rear derailer to run the XX 36T
cassette? There's also an 11-32T XX cassette out there that you could try.
Presuming you don't cross-chain that could work??? You could also go down
one size to a 33T small ring, which isn't a lot of change (3%), but might
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain question... AHH with 9 vs 10 speeds...
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 14, 2009, 7:53 PM
Is there enough chain wrap with the Rival rear derailer to run the XX 36T
cassette? There's also an 11-32T XX cassette out there that you could
. the sram road
groups are not designed for low gears.
don c.
--- On *Sat, 11/14/09, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com* wrote:
From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain question... AHH with 9 vs 10 speeds...
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Saturday
and it did not work very well. the sram road
groups are not designed for low gears.
don c.
--- On *Sat, 11/14/09, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com* wrote:
From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain question... AHH with 9 vs 10 speeds...
To: rbw-owners-bunch
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