[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Ed Carolipio
I think you could make either work for what you want to do and would be a 
pleasure to own. That said, I would opt for the Susie because of its 
uniqueness. I can't think of an off-the-shelf frame that offers the 
combination of design elements that the Susie does using lugs and fillet 
brazing, and I expect it will always be tough to find one in the used 
market.

Ed C.
Redondo Beach, CA
On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> They are different bikes, so the only smart move is one of each.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>
>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>
>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
>> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
>> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>> fender?).
>>
>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
>> both.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
There's no Appaloosa in question, the mustard bike is a Homer. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 8:15:40 PM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

> I said "bosco," but meant "chaco."  The first ones, on the first run of 
> appaloosas, were the bullmoose version.  
>
> (The bosco was designed, coincidentally, in tandem with a model that was 
> also originally going to be called the Appaloosa, but never went beyond 
> prototype form.  It's usually referred to now as tge mystery bike or long 
> bike.)
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 8:39:43 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> First of all, "welcome,"  and beautiful bikes!
>>
>> I'd encourage you not to give up on getting the appaloosa to fit, even if 
>> it requires some out-of-the-box solutions, or thinking in diferrent ways 
>> than you're accustomed or predisposed to.  Put some miles on it and get to 
>> know it intimately.  And then, if you DO decide it's not ideal as the drop 
>> bar bike you dreamed of, get something else BEFORE you get rid of the 
>> appaloosa.  This group is full of people who sold a Rivendell only to 
>> regret it after the fact.  Your bike might be  perfect as something you 
>> don't yet realize you need.
>>
>> A couple of things you may or may not be aware of:
>>
>> 1.  As with many Riv models, the appaloosa was originally conceived with 
>> a specific handlebar in mind.  In this case it was the Bosco, which was 
>> likewise originally made FOR the Appaloosa.   You could descibe that as 
>> drop bar- or moustache bar-like, in that it has multiple hand positions, 
>> but it doesn't have the long, forward reach of those bars.  It comes back 
>> TOWARD the rider.  I'm actually sort of surprised Antonio recommended that 
>> stem and reach.  I'd expect that to work for me, with my abnormally-long 
>> torso, but not normal people.
>>
>> 2.  Stems are available with very short reach, or none at all:
>>
>>
>> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem?variant=40095824674993
>>
>> Grant recently blahged about a bike with a stem turned around and 
>> reaching backward  and said it felt totally normal.
>>
>> 3.  Another thing Grant has discussed better than I can, is the 
>> self-negating effect of raising your stem without ALSO shortening it.  (Not 
>> even sure I paraphrased that properly, but it's worth reading before you 
>> mess around with things too much.)  I think that one is on the website 
>> articles.
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:20:53 PM UTC-7 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
>>> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
>>> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
>>> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>>
>>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>>
>>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>>
>>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Best practice with Sunrace Thumbshifters

2024-02-07 Thread Berkeleyan
Joe, yes, she's also a pure friction shifter. I'm looking into how I can 
increase the diameter of the barrel OR gain leverage on the ancient front 
Derailer. And honestly folks, I get that these are ideal for "inside" 
mounting to use both thumb and fingers to achieve the full swing of the 
lever. If it were just me, would not be an issue. But her muscle memory is 
brittle in that way.

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 12:28:05 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Andrew, 
>
> I have one each SunRace shifter and Silver2 to compare. The barrels appear 
> to be the same diameter but the SunRace is notably further from the bar, 
> and the lever is a smidge longer. Both distance issues are going to create 
> the sensation that she's reaching further and pulling the lever through a 
> longer arc than the Silver. Does this mean the Silver shifter is more like 
> the one that was on her bike? I don't know but my guess..yes!*
>
> *Assuming we're talking friction shifters here. I'm no help if she's using 
> index.  
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:06:00 AM UTC-8 Berkeleyan wrote:
>
>> Brief background, my wife's 1995 B'Stone X0-5 thumb shifters died after a 
>> mild crash. I replaced them with the beautiful Sunrace thumbies from the 
>> mothership website. Now she complains...
>>
>> She has Dove bars (like Albatross but more straight-back at the grips) 
>> and cork grips, and she was used to the old shifters being closer to her 
>> hands than I can get the Sunracers, when mounted in the "outer" position. 
>> She tried them mounted as "inner" shifters but couldn't get the knack of 
>> using thumbs to press down and finger to left back up. I also think the 
>> shifters are further away from the bar than she was used to, and have a 
>> longer swing.
>>
>> When mounted outboard, is there a trick to get less cable pulled so the 
>> swing of the shifter is a shorter arc? Maybe that's all about mechanical 
>> advantage at the derailer. I'm wondering if anyone else has worked through 
>> all the permutations of the "outsider" mounting to find a best way.
>>
>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: VO Rando Rolling Chasis

2024-02-07 Thread Collin A
Alrighty, its quiet out there...

I'm open to parting out the chassis, and dropping the price for the whole
enchilada to $900 plus split shipping from 94702 (probably around $40-60).

Frame/Fork/headset - $650 plus "we split the shipping" from 94702. Will
still include the barrel adjusters...
Grand Cru Brakes - $130 shipped
H Plus Son Wheelset - $150 plus "we split the shipping" from 94702

Happy February,
Collin in Soggytown (Berkeley)

On Fri, Jan 26, 2024 at 10:27 AM Collin A  wrote:

> Heyo,
>
> I managed to get my hands and build up the recent VO Rando Redux last year
> and built it up as a racier bay-area hill climber bike, and it served that
> role perfectly! However, I got a good deal on a Ritchey Road Logic (what I
> originally wanted) and immediately failed my New Year’s resolution, and as
> such am parting ways with the frameset, with some bonus parts to get you
> going listed below:
>
> Asking $1000 + shipping
> Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TVZ3cbqpd59EmgCi6
>
>- Frame: Size Medium VO Rando. Fork cut approximately 65mm above the
>current headset, and includes the starnut. Will Include the vertical 130
>and horizontal 120 dropouts. I fit some 700x35 as measured tires in there
>with the 130 dropouts. 2 scratches of note, but no dents or dings and never
>crashed.
>- Headset: Ritchey WCS threadless 1 1/8. It works!
>- Brakes: VO Grand Cru mid-rach (they call them long reach but we all
>know they are mid reach) brakes that the frame was specifically designed
>around. These are bomber brakes, and the blue pads are *chef's kiss
>- Wheelset: H Plus son archetype 32h f/r laced to shimano r7000 105
>hubs with straight gauge spokes and brass nipples. These suckers just work
>and work and work. I built up the rando with some lighter weight weenie
>wheels, but I think these fit the spirit of the all-steel road bike a bit
>more. They are great and should last as long as the bike. Tires will be
>included to protect the rims during shipping (cause they are skinny)!
>Includes the stalwart shimano quick releases
>- Black no-name barrel adjusters. Lightish since they are plastic, and
>again matches the black theme.
>
> If you are interested in just the frame, let me know and we can chat. But
> for now I'd like to sell the whole setup. I've got some other parts that
> could be included if you want more of a complete bike, namely drivetrain
> parts, bars, seatpost, etc.
>
> If you were looking for a livelier version of the roadini, this might be
> it.
>
> Collin in Berktown
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread iamkeith
I said "bosco," but meant "chaco."  The first ones, on the first run of 
appaloosas, were the bullmoose version.  

(The bosco was designed, coincidentally, in tandem with a model that was 
also originally going to be called the Appaloosa, but never went beyond 
prototype form.  It's usually referred to now as tge mystery bike or long 
bike.)

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 8:39:43 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:

> First of all, "welcome,"  and beautiful bikes!
>
> I'd encourage you not to give up on getting the appaloosa to fit, even if 
> it requires some out-of-the-box solutions, or thinking in diferrent ways 
> than you're accustomed or predisposed to.  Put some miles on it and get to 
> know it intimately.  And then, if you DO decide it's not ideal as the drop 
> bar bike you dreamed of, get something else BEFORE you get rid of the 
> appaloosa.  This group is full of people who sold a Rivendell only to 
> regret it after the fact.  Your bike might be  perfect as something you 
> don't yet realize you need.
>
> A couple of things you may or may not be aware of:
>
> 1.  As with many Riv models, the appaloosa was originally conceived with a 
> specific handlebar in mind.  In this case it was the Bosco, which was 
> likewise originally made FOR the Appaloosa.   You could descibe that as 
> drop bar- or moustache bar-like, in that it has multiple hand positions, 
> but it doesn't have the long, forward reach of those bars.  It comes back 
> TOWARD the rider.  I'm actually sort of surprised Antonio recommended that 
> stem and reach.  I'd expect that to work for me, with my abnormally-long 
> torso, but not normal people.
>
> 2.  Stems are available with very short reach, or none at all:
>
> https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem?variant=40095824674993
>
> Grant recently blahged about a bike with a stem turned around and reaching 
> backward  and said it felt totally normal.
>
> 3.  Another thing Grant has discussed better than I can, is the 
> self-negating effect of raising your stem without ALSO shortening it.  (Not 
> even sure I paraphrased that properly, but it's worth reading before you 
> mess around with things too much.)  I think that one is on the website 
> articles.
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:20:53 PM UTC-7 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
>> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
>> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
>> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
>> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
>> garage pic:
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>
>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>
>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>
>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>
>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread iamkeith
First of all, "welcome,"  and beautiful bikes!

I'd encourage you not to give up on getting the appaloosa to fit, even if 
it requires some out-of-the-box solutions, or thinking in diferrent ways 
than you're accustomed or predisposed to.  Put some miles on it and get to 
know it intimately.  And then, if you DO decide it's not ideal as the drop 
bar bike you dreamed of, get something else BEFORE you get rid of the 
appaloosa.  This group is full of people who sold a Rivendell only to 
regret it after the fact.  Your bike might be  perfect as something you 
don't yet realize you need.

A couple of things you may or may not be aware of:

1.  As with many Riv models, the appaloosa was originally conceived with a 
specific handlebar in mind.  In this case it was the Bosco, which was 
likewise originally made FOR the Appaloosa.   You could descibe that as 
drop bar- or moustache bar-like, in that it has multiple hand positions, 
but it doesn't have the long, forward reach of those bars.  It comes back 
TOWARD the rider.  I'm actually sort of surprised Antonio recommended that 
stem and reach.  I'd expect that to work for me, with my abnormally-long 
torso, but not normal people.

2.  Stems are available with very short reach, or none at all:

https://analogcycles.com/products/analog-wright-stem?variant=40095824674993

Grant recently blahged about a bike with a stem turned around and reaching 
backward  and said it felt totally normal.

3.  Another thing Grant has discussed better than I can, is the 
self-negating effect of raising your stem without ALSO shortening it.  (Not 
even sure I paraphrased that properly, but it's worth reading before you 
mess around with things too much.)  I think that one is on the website 
articles.


On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:20:53 PM UTC-7 eitanz...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
> garage pic:
>
>
> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>
> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>
> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a zippy 
> road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the Dia 
> Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the TRP 
> drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>
> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>
> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>
> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>
> Thanks!
> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used to 
> bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>
>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them. 
>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
>> a reasonable assumption?
>>
>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
>> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>
>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
>> an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
>> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>>
>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
>>> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
>>> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
>>> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>>
>>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>>
>>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>>
>>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Paul Canti Levers & Mini Moto Brakes

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
I have a set of levers.  They are the older ones with the big hollow barrel 
pivot, not a bearing.  They are currently on a bike, but I could be talked 
into removing them.  I'd ask $80 plus a USPS flat rate box.  They are 
black.  If you are interested, I'll snap photos.  

Bill

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:52:02 PM UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Looking for exactly whats in the subject. I don't really care too much 
> about color just tell me what you got! Thanks

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[RBW] WTB: Paul Canti Levers & Mini Moto Brakes

2024-02-07 Thread Johnny Alien
Looking for exactly whats in the subject. I don't really care too much 
about color just tell me what you got! Thanks

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Re: [RBW] ISO: A long rear rack

2024-02-07 Thread luckyturnip
Tom, unfortunately my Jaand is the regular non-expedition rack which is going to be about an inch too short.But it’s yours for shipping if you want. Message me off list. On Feb 7, 2024, at 13:14, Tom Wyland  wrote:Thanks, Liz.The irony is that the rack is like 90% covered by the pannier.  TomReston, VAOn Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:23:43 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:You need a Jaand Expedition rear rack.I might have one in the garage and will check after 5pm but if so, it won’t be very attractive. Liz in Sacramento On Feb 7, 2024, at 12:00, Tom Wyland  wrote:I picked up a cool Dutch twin panniers in Amsterdam for my Platy. I'm putting the large saddlesack and R14 rack on the shelf a bit. The double panniers looked so tiny on the big city bikes, but I can't find a bike rack in the US that has a platform 400mm (15.75 inches) long. Does anyone have a rear rack laying around that has a platform larger than 15 inches? Thanks,TomReston, VA



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[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
They are different bikes, so the only smart move is one of each.  

BL in EC

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:

> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
> later this year. Help me commit!
>
> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun 
> rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus 
> occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The 
> Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be 
> pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>
> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
> fender?).
>
> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
> both.
>

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
I agree about the name, I'm mystified that they dropped Gus Boots-Willsen. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:48:43 PM UTC-8 Hoch in ut wrote:

> I agree with Richard. Although both would serve your needs, if there is 
> any chance you’ll ride some singletrack, I’d wholeheartedly get the suze. 
> 2.6” tires with that long wheelbase is a riot. 
> Caveat is I only have a 6 mile round trip commute. And grocery is 6 mile 
> trip. So any bike works. If your commute is much longer, I’d say neither 
> bike would be great. Just get a cheap Trek 420 for the commutes. 
> The only thing I don’t like about Susie is the name. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:16:03 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get 
>> the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, 
>> Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the 
>> other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such 
>> a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my 
>> preference for off road excursions.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>
>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>
>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
>> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
>> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>> fender?).
>>
>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
>> both.
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1e47cf36-31e0-4a3c-8e64-39bd3cf86693n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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RE: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

2024-02-07 Thread Bernard Duhon
Tried several including Rene Hearse Randonner & found the bends in the bar left 
little room for the hands.
Have Settled on the Nitto “noodle” that Riv sells Nitto number is 177.  I find 
the bends & drop just right and the Tops & ramps roomy.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com  On 
Behalf Of Josh Lubben
Sent: Wednesday, February 7, 2024 12:29 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Subject: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

Hi All!
I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love doing 
bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel like a 
completely different bike.

I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever Rivendell you 
happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for my Homer, so if you 
happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your thoughts on that bar/see 
any pictures you might have. But as the post title suggests, I'd love to hear 
about any other drop bars y'all like to use.

Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv, what 
adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be impacted by 
the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much of change you 
experience in stem length.

Thanks!
Josh
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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW Owners Bunch
I suggest measuring the distance form the tip of the saddle to the line 
between the brake levers on the Breezer if this bike fits you.  Measure the 
same on the AHH.   I think you will find the Breezer has a shorter 
distance.  You can then see how much length reduction each change will  
make.

The seat tube setback for the 2 bikes is calculated using  SH * cos 
STA.   SH = Saddle Height,  STA =seat tube angle
Calc for each and take the difference.  See if you can move the AHH saddle 
forward (per Bill L's suggestion) to cancel the difference.

All AHH have a 71.5° STA.  If your SH = 83cm (just a guess) and the Breezer 
STA is 73°, the AHH is setback by 21mm vs the Breezer.   You probably can 
move the AHH full forward to make up the seat tube setback

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ


On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:06:31 PM UTC-5 Ethan K wrote:

> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used to 
> bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>
>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them. 
>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
>> a reasonable assumption?
>>
>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
>> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>
>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
>> an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
>> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>>
>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
>>> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
>>> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
>>> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>>
>>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>>
>>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>>
>>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)

[RBW] Re: Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread Ben Hannon
Thanks everyone!

Regarding the cliffhangers, these are set up tubed, but I do have a pair in 
26 that have been tubeless for over a year without issues.

Grips are ergon ga-3s wrapped in newbaums, correct. No issues with the 26.0 
in 25.4. I think the argument could be made that it's less likely to slip, 
but I haven't tested it on too rugged of trails yet.

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 8:01:14 PM UTC-6 kiziria...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Also, the 25.4 faceplater had no issues clamping that 26.0 handlebar?
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:59:18 PM UTC-8 Armand Kizirian wrote:
>
>> Congratulations! Looks ready to make some great memories. 
>>
>> Looks like grips are some Ergon's wrapped in newbaums?
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:37:01 PM UTC-8 thetaper...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> There is nothing quite like the look of a fillet-brazed ATB. Beautiful 
>>> build.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5 DTL wrote:
>>>
 That is a handsome bike!
 Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
 On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:

> I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share 
> the end product.
>
> Wolbis Slugstone 
> 
>
> Part list:
> Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
> velocity cliff hangers
> shutter precision dynamo front hub
> shimano something or other rear hub
> thomson masterpiece setback
> brooks b72
> nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
> uncle rhondas upright bath bars
> sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
> dura-ace 2 by FD
> altus RD
> jim 7 speed casette
> riv shifters
> deore.v brakes
>
> Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 
> let me know!
>
> Ben in Chicago
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

2024-02-07 Thread Doug H.
Will from Rivendell would recommend a 50 for you as he did for me. I'm 
5'10" (almost) with an 83 PBH. My saddle height is 71.5 cm. But, I'm still 
thinking I would prefer a 54.
Doug

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:21:17 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:

> Thanks for the link, I saw that one as well, unfortunately too big.
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:51:21 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>
>> I was just thinking I had seen one recently but it’s a 57. Nonetheless 
>> here’s the link:
>>
>> [image: 418748400_7019085838173016_3719984432333502610_n.jpg]
>>
>> Rivendell Leo Roadini 
>> 
>> facebook.com 
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On Feb 1, 2024, at 13:30, Doug H.  wrote:
>>
>> Judd,
>>
>> I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
>> height and PBH is for reference?
>> Doug
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>>
>>> Hello fine folks 
>>>
>>> I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
>>>  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread Armand Kizirian
Also, the 25.4 faceplater had no issues clamping that 26.0 handlebar?

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:59:18 PM UTC-8 Armand Kizirian wrote:

> Congratulations! Looks ready to make some great memories. 
>
> Looks like grips are some Ergon's wrapped in newbaums?
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:37:01 PM UTC-8 thetaper...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> There is nothing quite like the look of a fillet-brazed ATB. Beautiful 
>> build.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5 DTL wrote:
>>
>>> That is a handsome bike!
>>> Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
>>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:
>>>
 I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share 
 the end product.

 Wolbis Slugstone 
 

 Part list:
 Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
 velocity cliff hangers
 shutter precision dynamo front hub
 shimano something or other rear hub
 thomson masterpiece setback
 brooks b72
 nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
 uncle rhondas upright bath bars
 sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
 dura-ace 2 by FD
 altus RD
 jim 7 speed casette
 riv shifters
 deore.v brakes

 Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 
 let me know!

 Ben in Chicago

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread Armand Kizirian
Congratulations! Looks ready to make some great memories. 

Looks like grips are some Ergon's wrapped in newbaums?

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:37:01 PM UTC-8 thetaper...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> There is nothing quite like the look of a fillet-brazed ATB. Beautiful 
> build.
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5 DTL wrote:
>
>> That is a handsome bike!
>> Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share 
>>> the end product.
>>>
>>> Wolbis Slugstone 
>>> 
>>>
>>> Part list:
>>> Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
>>> velocity cliff hangers
>>> shutter precision dynamo front hub
>>> shimano something or other rear hub
>>> thomson masterpiece setback
>>> brooks b72
>>> nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
>>> uncle rhondas upright bath bars
>>> sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
>>> dura-ace 2 by FD
>>> altus RD
>>> jim 7 speed casette
>>> riv shifters
>>> deore.v brakes
>>>
>>> Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 
>>> let me know!
>>>
>>> Ben in Chicago
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Hoch in ut
I agree with Richard. Although both would serve your needs, if there is any 
chance you’ll ride some singletrack, I’d wholeheartedly get the suze. 2.6” 
tires with that long wheelbase is a riot. 
Caveat is I only have a 6 mile round trip commute. And grocery is 6 mile 
trip. So any bike works. If your commute is much longer, I’d say neither 
bike would be great. Just get a cheap Trek 420 for the commutes. 
The only thing I don’t like about Susie is the name. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:16:03 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get 
> the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, 
> Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the 
> other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such 
> a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my 
> preference for off road excursions.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
> later this year. Help me commit!
>
> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun 
> rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus 
> occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The 
> Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be 
> pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>
> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
> fender?).
>
> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
> both.
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1e47cf36-31e0-4a3c-8e64-39bd3cf86693n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
*based on I couldn't even say* TYPOS! 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:36:45 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I had an Appaloosa for a while and a Susie for not very long, didn't ride 
> either on dirt. I liked the Susie better based on I couldn't even eat, it 
> was just more interesting to me.* I'm sure this isn't very helpful! 
>
> *I wish I'd kept the Susie, it was sold during a bunch of drama I won't 
> bore you with. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>
>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>
>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
>> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
>> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>> fender?).
>>
>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
>> both.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
I had an Appaloosa for a while and a Susie for not very long, didn't ride 
either on dirt. I liked the Susie better based on I couldn't even eat, it 
was just more interesting to me.* I'm sure this isn't very helpful! 

*I wish I'd kept the Susie, it was sold during a bunch of drama I won't 
bore you with. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:

> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
> later this year. Help me commit!
>
> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun 
> rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus 
> occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The 
> Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be 
> pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>
> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
> fender?).
>
> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
> both.
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
When comparing, give a good look at seat tube angle.  Rivendells are more 
laid back than most.  Many people just slide their saddle all the way back 
out of habit, and on a Rivendell, that may put you an inch or more further 
back than on some other bikes with a 74 degree seat tube angle.  If the 
Homer indeed has a slacker seat tube angle, then you'd need to run the 
saddle further forward on the rails to get the same butt to feet position 
as your "known good" machine.  

Good luck with the exploration and experimentation
Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:00:29 PM UTC-8 ian m wrote:

> You can compare the geometry of the Homer against your Breezer on 
> bikeinsights.com. Worth a look to find the differences
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:06:31 PM UTC-5 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
>> to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
>> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
>> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
>> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
>> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
>> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
>> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
>> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
>> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
>> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
>> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
>> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
>> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>>
>>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
>>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them. 
>>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
>>> a reasonable assumption?
>>>
>>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
>>> are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
>>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>>
>>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
>>> an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
>>> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>>>
>>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
 months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
 this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
 city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
 XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
 Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
 distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:


 [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]

 I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 

 Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
 zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
 Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
 TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 

 [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]





 That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
 comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
 bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
 gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
 an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
 concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
 try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
 fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
 bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
 endurance/all-roadish bike. 

 I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where 
 the bars are 5" above the saddle. 

 Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to 

[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread ian m
You can compare the geometry of the Homer against your Breezer on 
bikeinsights.com. Worth a look to find the differences

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:06:31 PM UTC-5 eitanz...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used to 
> bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>
>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them. 
>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
>> a reasonable assumption?
>>
>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
>> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>
>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
>> an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
>> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>>
>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
>>> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
>>> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
>>> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>>
>>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>>
>>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>>
>>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>>
>>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread Nick A.
There is nothing quite like the look of a fillet-brazed ATB. Beautiful 
build.

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5 DTL wrote:

> That is a handsome bike!
> Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:
>
>> I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share 
>> the end product.
>>
>> Wolbis Slugstone 
>> 
>>
>> Part list:
>> Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
>> velocity cliff hangers
>> shutter precision dynamo front hub
>> shimano something or other rear hub
>> thomson masterpiece setback
>> brooks b72
>> nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
>> uncle rhondas upright bath bars
>> sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
>> dura-ace 2 by FD
>> altus RD
>> jim 7 speed casette
>> riv shifters
>> deore.v brakes
>>
>> Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 
>> let me know!
>>
>> Ben in Chicago
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why baskets and front bags instead of rear panniers or perfect Rivendell saddlebags?

2024-02-07 Thread John Rinker
The marmot abides.

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:21:18 PM UTC-8 Jacob Kersey wrote:

> Nice marmot.
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:51:18 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> My pet marmot much prefers to ride in the airy, open basket rather than 
>> buckled in the dark recesses of my Sackville. It's a thing of beauty to 
>> watch the wind whip through her fur and hear the whistle through her 
>> whiskers!
>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-01 at 7.49.01 PM.png]
>>
>> Also, what Brenton and Neale said.
>>
>> Cheers, 
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:18:27 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> If you ever want to bike-pack and go somewhere remote or accessible via 
>>> single track, having your luggage up in a basket, frame bag, saddlebag, 
>>> avoids the risk of catching a pannier (or both) on roots, branches, downed 
>>> trees cut just wide enough for passage, etc.
>>>
>>> I learned this the hard way on my first bicycle overnighter. My old 
>>> bikes' panniers made it really hard to get to our campsite on the bike. I 
>>> think panniers make sense, and they will come back into "trend" soon. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 6:19:53 PM UTC-8 Neale S. wrote:
>>>
 One reason to put some weight on the front of the bike is that all of 
 your (body) weight is mostly on the rear already.
 On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 5:26:41 PM UTC-8 Stephen wrote:

> I have basically the same reasoning as Ian, and also live in a city 
> and dont want to leave bags on my bike when I lock up, plus i like my 
> daily 
> bag to not look too bikey (I use the shopsacks). Convenient and easy, 
> easier to pile up with whatever shit i want, take a jacket or sweater off 
> if i get hot, sling my lock into it. Does it affect handling? yep, but i 
> dont really mind that much for riding around town. If my situation was 
> different maybe id do things differently, but I tend to like having a at 
> least a small basket available for an around town bike. I like the way it 
> looks too.
>
> -stephen
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:47:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> IMO, baggage ought to complement the handling characteristics of the 
>> bicycle. My benchmark idea of handling has been formed by 30 years of 
>> riding Rivendells which, IME, do best with rear loads, or at least loads 
>> biased toward the rear and not the front.
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 1, 2024 at 5:18 PM ian m  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not sure how it makes more sense to put a bag into another bag 
>>> than into a baske
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Ethan K
Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used to 
bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
"upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are a few thoughts:
>
> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long time 
> with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they can 
> know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them.  It 
> sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that a 
> reasonable assumption?
>
> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>
> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently an 
> endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>
> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
>> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
>> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
>> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
>> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
>> garage pic:
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>
>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>
>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>
>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>
>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1997 Road Standard - 57cm on the Ebay

2024-02-07 Thread Ryan
Wow...that is nice...looks like it is in immaculate condition...and more
than fair price...a classic

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:23:32 PM UTC-6 Bryan R wrote:

> Just listed this. 
>
> Honor to have owned and ridden. 
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/256399897887
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread iamkeith

Tough call, based on your stated criteria and preferences.  I don't think 
you could go wrong, but I don't have the direct experience for a 
comparison.  I have a Susie and a bunch of other Rivs, but my All Rounder 
is the closest analog to the Appaloosa.  (If you cosider Appaloosa evolved 
from the Atlatis, which evolved from the All Rounder but it's pretty 
far removed at this point.)

I'll say that both are among the few bikes I'll  never ever part with.  But 
ESPECIALLY the AR,  because it is just so classic looking and also so 
versatile.  I suspect the Appaloosa will still feel more like a sprightly 
road bike than the Susie, with it's new thicker tubing - not the more 
"over-built" load carrier you're anticipating

On the other hand, I'll note that my one, big complaint about the Susie - a 
too-high-for-my-liking bottom bracket - is being remedied in the new, 
lugged batch.  So that's a huge improvement that should make it feel more 
like a Rivendell and be more comfortable for the riding you describe.

I'll also say that you're probably correct that you won't want or need all 
of the tire clearance that the susie has. I got B65 fenders to work with 
2.8 tires, with mods.  (More on that later.)  But it's way too much.  It's 
overkill and doesn't ride or steer well.  (But the high BB compounds that, 
Im sure, by making the center of gravity too high.)

Then again, it's nice to finally  have MORE room than you need or want for 
a change.  I think 2.5ish tires are probably the sweet spot - at least at 
my weight and terrain and for the type of riding you describe.  (What I 
have on my clem)  And, unfortunately, the Appaloosa caps out at 2.25  
(going from memory...  so check that.)  

Making your decision even more muddied, I'm sure...
On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:30:07 PM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:

> I would recommend the Appaloosa. If you're primary use is commuting and 
> grocery getting there isn't a better bicycle then the Joe A. You could put 
> a decent size knobbie tire on there is you wanted. I had Schwalbe Thunder 
> Burts on mine which made it great for road and great for the occasional off 
> road excursion. It certainly can be a "have fun" bike if you build it up 
> right. If you are looking to add fenders under a reasonably sized tire then 
> the Appaloosa also gets the nod. I've never owned a Susie/Gus but I've 
> owned an Appaloosa which was one of my favorites Riv bikes I had ever 
> owned. I regret selling it all the time. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:16:03 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get 
>> the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, 
>> Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the 
>> other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such 
>> a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my 
>> preference for off road excursions.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>
>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>
>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
>> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
>> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>> fender?).
>>
>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
>> both.
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread DTL
That is a handsome bike!
Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:

> I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share the 
> end product.
>
> Wolbis Slugstone 
> 
>
> Part list:
> Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
> velocity cliff hangers
> shutter precision dynamo front hub
> shimano something or other rear hub
> thomson masterpiece setback
> brooks b72
> nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
> uncle rhondas upright bath bars
> sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
> dura-ace 2 by FD
> altus RD
> jim 7 speed casette
> riv shifters
> deore.v brakes
>
> Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 let 
> me know!
>
> Ben in Chicago
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Cody Marvin
I've had similar reach issues before, including on my Sam Hillborne. I've
found I like the Soma Hwy One and the Nitto/Blue Lug Fairweather 174 bars.
They both have shorter reach and less drop than the Noodle (I'm guessing
that's what you have?). The drops on the Soma bars come back pretty far and
can make things feel a little cramped with bar ends, but I still like and
use them (I suppose you could also cut them down). The Blue Lug bars are
maybe a better design for bar ends, but I think they're often out of stock.

Cody, Chicago

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 4:42 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Here are a few thoughts:
>
> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long time
> with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they can
> know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them.  It
> sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that a
> reasonable assumption?
>
> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are
> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who
> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had
> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?
>
> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently an
> endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you
> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?
>
> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months
>> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is
>> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike.
>> Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. .
>> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which
>> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous
>> garage pic:
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>
>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful.
>>
>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a
>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the
>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the
>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs.
>>
>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get
>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a
>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I
>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with
>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm
>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is
>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I
>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright
>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar
>> endurance/all-roadish bike.
>>
>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the
>> bars are 5" above the saddle.
>>
>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>
> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread John Bokman
I would try the shorter stem. I have a Sam that I initially thought was too 
long for me, even though I'm smack dab in the middle of the charts for PBH 
sizing. (My legs are long, my torso not so much.) I installed a 7 cm stem 
(from a  10 cm ) and it made enough of a difference for me to get 
comfortable. I could probably go to an even shorter stem (I'm using Nitto 
tecnomic) but the 7cm stem seems short enough. If you are using a 
Technomic, I believe you can get as short as a 5 cm (could be wrong, but 
I'm pretty sure you can get a 6, anyway). In my case, as I have become more 
flexible, with better bike posture, I have noticed a long top tube does not 
cause me undue problems. Just something to consider - or not.

John
Portland OR

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are a few thoughts:
>
> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long time 
> with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they can 
> know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them.  It 
> sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that a 
> reasonable assumption?
>
> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
> usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>
> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently an 
> endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>
> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
>> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
>> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
>> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
>> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
>> garage pic:
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>>
>> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>>
>> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
>> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
>> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
>> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
>> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
>> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
>> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
>> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
>> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
>> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
>> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
>> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
>> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>>
>> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
>> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>>
>> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

2024-02-07 Thread Patrick Moore
Oh, after the Maes Parallel, the Noodle and the Nitto B135 rando bars were
next in comfort.

I used to use Nitto 185s 3" below saddle. I switched to longer reach bars
-- Noodle, B 135, Maes Parallel and VO clone -- 3 *centimeters* below
saddle. I kept the same 8 cm stems; the reach is about the same and the
comfort is much greater with the latter arrangement.

With Moustache bars I tried closer in and high but (on my road bikes) found
it "tippy" and awkward, so always used M-bars with the same 8 cm stem more
or less the same 3 cm below saddle. But even this hurt my palms as did all
other non-drop bars. The best non-drop bar was the shorter model of the
MAP/Ahearne with 4" cut off each end and cut-down Ergon grips. But even
with this on the Monocog 29er I switched to a drop bar.

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 4:00 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I've tried several varieties of Moustache bar, ever so many wide and
> flared drop bars starting with the original WTB bar, any number of
> "tourist" bars, straightish and sweepback, all sorts of straight mtb bars
> with and without bar ends, and various anatomical road bars (uck, agh,
> yuck, ptooey, gag, hack, pffft, sptuey), and I always, always, always go
> back to a 38 cm to 42 cm old-fashioned round-bend, long-ish reach, med to
> shallow-drop drop bar -- Nitto 185s to Noodles to, now, Maes Parallels. For
> drop bars, it's wide and anatomical that hurt my hands and annoy my
> shoulders more than flare.
>
> I've just cut my bikes to 3, and all of them have the Maes Parallel. The
> MPs on the 2 road bikes (that 1999 Joe Starck Riv Road custom and the 2020
> Matthews clone of the 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv Road custom) have 38 cm bars
> (at hoods) while my fat tire Matthews road bike has a wide 42 cm Maes
> Parallel. Note that I don't ride small frames: I was professionally fitted
> long ago for a 60 c-c.
>
> On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 2:23 PM Josh Lubben  wrote:
>
>> Hi All!
>> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love
>> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel
>> like a completely different bike.
>>
>> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever
>> Rivendell you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for
>> my Homer, so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your
>> thoughts on that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title
>> suggests, I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use.
>>
>> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv,
>> what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be
>> impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much
>> of change you experience in stem length.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Josh
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56efdc9c-9262-49d5-9c23-e8686206e3bcn%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

2024-02-07 Thread Patrick Moore
I've tried several varieties of Moustache bar, ever so many wide and flared
drop bars starting with the original WTB bar, any number of "tourist" bars,
straightish and sweepback, all sorts of straight mtb bars with and without
bar ends, and various anatomical road bars (uck, agh, yuck, ptooey, gag,
hack, pffft, sptuey), and I always, always, always go back to a 38 cm to 42
cm old-fashioned round-bend, long-ish reach, med to shallow-drop drop bar
-- Nitto 185s to Noodles to, now, Maes Parallels. For drop bars, it's wide
and anatomical that hurt my hands and annoy my shoulders more than flare.

I've just cut my bikes to 3, and all of them have the Maes Parallel. The
MPs on the 2 road bikes (that 1999 Joe Starck Riv Road custom and the 2020
Matthews clone of the 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv Road custom) have 38 cm bars
(at hoods) while my fat tire Matthews road bike has a wide 42 cm Maes
Parallel. Note that I don't ride small frames: I was professionally fitted
long ago for a 60 c-c.

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 2:23 PM Josh Lubben  wrote:

> Hi All!
> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love
> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel
> like a completely different bike.
>
> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever Rivendell
> you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for my Homer,
> so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your thoughts on
> that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title suggests,
> I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use.
>
> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv,
> what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be
> impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much
> of change you experience in stem length.
>
> Thanks!
> Josh
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> 
> .
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
Here are a few thoughts:

People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long time 
with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they can 
know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them.  It 
sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that a 
reasonable assumption?

People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves are 
usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  

This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently an 
endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  

Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
> garage pic:
>
>
> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>
> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>
> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a zippy 
> road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the Dia 
> Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the TRP 
> drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>
> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>
> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>
> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>
> Thanks!
> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>

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[RBW] Re: What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

2024-02-07 Thread Tim Bantham
I'm using the Crust X Nitto Shaka bar on my 62cm Sam Hillborne. So far this 
is a great set up. I've had Albatross bars, Albastache bars, Noodles, Salsa 
Wood Chipper bars and not the Shaka's. I had a super long stem on the 
Albatross bars. 13 cm to be exact when I switched to drop bars I shortened 
up the stem quite a bit. I've had a 5 cm stem when I had the Wood Chipper 
bar and now a 6cm Nitto Faceplater with the Shaka's. Keep in mind the 62 
Sam has a long top tube!

I mostly wanted the Shaka bars to have the wide enough to fit a small Ron's 
Bikes chest bag. I like this set up so far!

Tim

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:23:50 PM UTC-5 jtlu...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi All!
> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love 
> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel 
> like a completely different bike. 
>
> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever Rivendell 
> you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for my Homer, 
> so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your thoughts on 
> that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title suggests, 
> I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use. 
>
> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv, 
> what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be 
> impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much 
> of change you experience in stem length.
>
> Thanks! 
> Josh 
>

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Tim Bantham
I would recommend the Appaloosa. If you're primary use is commuting and 
grocery getting there isn't a better bicycle then the Joe A. You could put 
a decent size knobbie tire on there is you wanted. I had Schwalbe Thunder 
Burts on mine which made it great for road and great for the occasional off 
road excursion. It certainly can be a "have fun" bike if you build it up 
right. If you are looking to add fenders under a reasonably sized tire then 
the Appaloosa also gets the nod. I've never owned a Susie/Gus but I've 
owned an Appaloosa which was one of my favorites Riv bikes I had ever 
owned. I regret selling it all the time. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:16:03 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get 
> the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, 
> Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the 
> other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such 
> a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my 
> preference for off road excursions.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
> later this year. Help me commit!
>
> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun 
> rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus 
> occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The 
> Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be 
> pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>
> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
> fender?).
>
> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
> both.
>
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> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Richard Rose
Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would get the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies (Honcho, Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and the other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is such a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects my preference for off road excursions.Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa later this year. Help me commit!I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo fender?).All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned both.



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Re: [RBW] WTB 650b conversion parts for Riv Road Standard

2024-02-07 Thread Fred Marsh
I have the Tektro brakes and a Clem 650b wheelset that I ran on my Bleriot 
until recently.
The wheels are 135 spaced in the rear, don't know if that works, and the 
rear hub needs an overhaul (easy cup and cone job).
Let me know if you're interested.

- Fred
Mount Prospect, Il

On Thursday, May 25, 2023 at 4:27:34 PM UTC-5 EGNolan wrote:

> Jim,
> There's a bit more room horizontally at the chainstays and fork than these 
> suggest, it's difficult for me to show the true gap at an angle with 
> fenders, etc. Tires measure 41 on these rims, but I initially borrowed the 
> wheels from my Bleriot which measure 43 on (much) wider rims. 
>
> I think I got extremely lucky that this bike fits the 42's, but I may also 
> be willing to ride with narrower gaps between tires and steel than others 
> on the list. I've been riding this bike consistently when I don't need to 
> carry too large of a load and it rides wonderfully. I'm pretty used to the 
> low bb now and haven't had any issues with the 170 length arms. [image: 
> IMG_5684.JPG][image: IMG_5683.JPG]
> [image: IMG_5759.JPG]
>
> On Wednesday, May 10, 2023 at 11:14:49 AM UTC-4 Jim Bronson wrote:
>
>> More pictures of the fork/fender/tire clearance and the same for the 
>> chainstay bridge?
>>
>> Yours must be different than mine, I too have had many thoughts about 
>> whether mine is a Road Standard or a custom.  It really doesn't look like a 
>> 42 could fit on mine with fenders, but maybe I'm wrong?  I have never tried 
>> it and always assumed that 38 was as large as I could go, and it's worked 
>> well, so I've been loath to mess with it.  Still, a little more would be 
>> nice if it fits.  
>>
>> I did blow up your picture and it appears that your brake pad bolt is 
>> lower in the slot than mine is.  Yours looks to be pretty much at the 
>> bottom and mine is approximately 1cm from the inside of the bottom of the 
>> slot to the center of the bolt.  So maybe I should just live with a 38.  
>> When I get around to converting my Redwood I could then swap the tires into 
>> the Road Standard/Custom and see if it fits.
>>
>> Some of it might depend on how true to size the 42s are, I've read that 
>> some brands only are about 40mm inflated, so there's that as well.  Those 
>> look like Panaracer GravelKing you have on your bike?  How wide do they run 
>> when inflated?
>>
>> Regarding Piaw Na's comment about low bottom brackets riding better, I 
>> agree!  They handle better also.   I have no bike in my stable that feels 
>> as confident and planted as my 650B converted Road Standard/Custom.  I'm 
>> sure taking it to a frame shop would raise a few eyebrows.  Haha.  Yes you 
>> have to be careful going around corners, it's really low and pedaling 
>> around anything more than a gentle curve is a no-go.  With that caveat 
>> stated I really like it the way it is and would not change.  When I first 
>> converted, I ran 170mm cranks because of the clearance issue, but it felt 
>> unnatural to me and I settled on 175's, I've had it that way for 7 or 8 
>> years.  It had ran 180mm TA Carmina prior to the conversion, I'm 6'7", but 
>> I didn't really care for the low Q of the TAs and was looking to replace 
>> them anyway.
>>
>> Jim
>> Austin suburbs, TX
>>
>> On Tue, May 9, 2023 at 10:41 AM EGNolan  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks to all who helped with parts and thoughts, thought I'd give a 
>>> li'l update on the custom-leaning Rivendell Road bike...
>>>
>>>
>>> For reference, it fits 650b x 42 + fenders without any mods by using 
>>> Tektro 559's. The bb is pretty low, but hasn't been an issue for the first 
>>> few hundred miles :)
>>>
>>> I'll wrap the bars when I've committed to keeping drops, I always try to 
>>> like it, but without collecting a large quiver it's difficult me to venture 
>>> too far from uprights as I ride with a coffee in hand more often than I 
>>> ride a longer distance than 25 miles... 
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_5660.JPG]
>>>
>>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 4:18:08 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Custom is good. Whatever you have is working!  (excellent color, too)

 On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:04:14 PM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:

> Joe,
> I was just going with what the original owner told me as far as Riv 
> Road, it may well be a custom. Luckily for me, I had a set of 559's AND a 
> 650b wheelset sitting on a Bleriot frame. I tested fit prior to putting 
> my 
> requests out there. 42's fit with fenders, though I will dimple the 
> chainstays for additional peace of mind, and the 559's have plenty of 
> reach 
> for this specific instance. 
>
> I feel that I am extremely lucky in that this (road, longlow, custom?) 
> bike works in ways others have not/do not. 
>
> Best,
> Eric
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:10:20 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>>
>> The Road Standard was the original Waterford model with short-reach 
>> brakes, a Joe Starck 

[RBW] Carradice Audax lightweight bag and Expedition rack with QR (NOS)

2024-02-07 Thread bob saunders
UK made Carradice Audax lightweight bag (NOS/black) and Expedition support 
with QR support (NOS)...$170 shipped for all plus fees...thanks...$155 
picked up in Pittsburgh. I can send photos if you reach out with an email, 
but the links are a good resource. As a clarification, this includes the 
back, rack and quick release attachment...thanks.

https://carradice.co.uk/collections/bag-supports/products/bagman-quick-release-saddlebag-supports

https://www.condorcycles.com/products/carradice-lightweight-audax-saddlebag?variant=40096736411798

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[RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

2024-02-07 Thread Brian Thomas
Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
later this year. Help me commit!

I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but fun 
rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides plus 
occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. The 
Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would be 
pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 

What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but I 
like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
fender?).

All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
both.

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[RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

2024-02-07 Thread Josh Lubben
Hi All!
I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love 
doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel 
like a completely different bike. 

I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever Rivendell 
you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for my Homer, 
so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your thoughts on 
that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title suggests, 
I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use. 

Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv, 
what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be 
impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much 
of change you experience in stem length.

Thanks! 
Josh 

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[RBW] WTB - Hub Area Bags

2024-02-07 Thread 'Daniel Pack' via RBW Owners Bunch

Hello, Would anyone happen to have a set of Hub Area Rack (HAR) Bags they are 
not using? I managed to find a rack, but have not been able to find the bags. 
Thanks, Daniel Knoxville TN

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[RBW] Susie Build

2024-02-07 Thread Ben Hannon
I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd share the 
end product.

Wolbis Slugstone 


Part list:
Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
velocity cliff hangers
shutter precision dynamo front hub
shimano something or other rear hub
thomson masterpiece setback
brooks b72
nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
uncle rhondas upright bath bars
sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
dura-ace 2 by FD
altus RD
jim 7 speed casette
riv shifters
deore.v brakes

Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 8 let 
me know!

Ben in Chicago

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[RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

2024-02-07 Thread Judd Levy

Hey Doug, 

Sure thing, it’s 80.4 and 5’8.  


On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:30:04 PM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> Judd,
> I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
> height and PBH is for reference?
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>
>> Hello fine folks 
>>
>> I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
>>  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

2024-02-07 Thread Judd Levy
Thanks for the link, I saw that one as well, unfortunately too big.

On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:51:21 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:

> I was just thinking I had seen one recently but it’s a 57. Nonetheless 
> here’s the link:
>
> [image: 418748400_7019085838173016_3719984432333502610_n.jpg]
>
> Rivendell Leo Roadini 
> 
> facebook.com 
> 
>
> 
>
>
> On Feb 1, 2024, at 13:30, Doug H.  wrote:
>
> Judd,
>
> I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
> height and PBH is for reference?
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>
>> Hello fine folks 
>>
>> I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
>>  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: B17 alternatives

2024-02-07 Thread Marcus B
I've tried the Selle Anatomica Titanico saddle which is great but I felt 
like it hammocked me too much... almost to the point where it was "too 
broken in".  
I went back to the B17 and I definitely plan on trying the Aspin on my next 
build.

On Tuesday, January 23, 2024 at 11:55:33 PM UTC-5 brenton...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I have a B17 on my Sam that I love. 12 years old and showing very little 
> wear. It's the last thing I think about on all-day rides.
>
> I bought a pre owned "broken in" C17 for my Roadini build and I think I'll 
> pass it along. Just feels like it will never be comfortable.
>
> Anyone here have other saddles they enjoy? Maybe something lighter weight 
> and/or more modern looking, while still having all day comfort.
>
> If not I'll just get another B17 and be content!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why baskets and front bags instead of rear panniers or perfect Rivendell saddlebags?

2024-02-07 Thread Jacob Kersey
Nice marmot.

On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:51:18 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> My pet marmot much prefers to ride in the airy, open basket rather than 
> buckled in the dark recesses of my Sackville. It's a thing of beauty to 
> watch the wind whip through her fur and hear the whistle through her 
> whiskers!
> [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-01 at 7.49.01 PM.png]
>
> Also, what Brenton and Neale said.
>
> Cheers, 
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:18:27 PM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> If you ever want to bike-pack and go somewhere remote or accessible via 
>> single track, having your luggage up in a basket, frame bag, saddlebag, 
>> avoids the risk of catching a pannier (or both) on roots, branches, downed 
>> trees cut just wide enough for passage, etc.
>>
>> I learned this the hard way on my first bicycle overnighter. My old 
>> bikes' panniers made it really hard to get to our campsite on the bike. I 
>> think panniers make sense, and they will come back into "trend" soon. 
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 6:19:53 PM UTC-8 Neale S. wrote:
>>
>>> One reason to put some weight on the front of the bike is that all of 
>>> your (body) weight is mostly on the rear already.
>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 5:26:41 PM UTC-8 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 I have basically the same reasoning as Ian, and also live in a city and 
 dont want to leave bags on my bike when I lock up, plus i like my daily 
 bag 
 to not look too bikey (I use the shopsacks). Convenient and easy, easier 
 to 
 pile up with whatever shit i want, take a jacket or sweater off if i get 
 hot, sling my lock into it. Does it affect handling? yep, but i dont 
 really 
 mind that much for riding around town. If my situation was different maybe 
 id do things differently, but I tend to like having a at least a small 
 basket available for an around town bike. I like the way it looks too.

 -stephen

 On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 7:47:17 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> IMO, baggage ought to complement the handling characteristics of the 
> bicycle. My benchmark idea of handling has been formed by 30 years of 
> riding Rivendells which, IME, do best with rear loads, or at least loads 
> biased toward the rear and not the front.
>
> On Thu, Feb 1, 2024 at 5:18 PM ian m  wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure how it makes more sense to put a bag into another bag 
>> than into a baske
>
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread Jason Fuller
I think most of us here would be happier on a Jones than a more traditional 
modern MTB, but we are definitely the outliers.  I agree with John's take, 
unless they too are someone who puts considerable value in doing things the 
simple, timeless way with lower maintenance and willingness to walk tougher 
sections of trail.  The Krampus / Karate Monkey are great bikes that 
satisfy both camps about as well as any bike could. Another one to scan for 
used is the Salsa Timberjack. 

On Wednesday 7 February 2024 at 07:11:06 UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> That Jones is an absolute no-brainer answer to the op question. That is a 
> screaming deal!
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 7, 2024, at 9:59 AM, Stephen  wrote:
>
> Jones bikes were being discussed in another thread, they have some pretty 
> steep discounts at the moment. If your brother fits either a small or large 
> (seems theyre out of mediums) he could get a SWB v2 for $1295.
>
>
>  https://jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-swb-v2-complete-bike/
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:
>
>> Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."
>>
>> For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace 
>> listings for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 
>> (ish) HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 
>> 2.3" wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched 
>> derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) 
>> stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because 
>> that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most 
>> people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack 
>> in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, 
>> doubletrack, etc.
>>
>> Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with 
>> the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing 
>> ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper 
>> setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes 
>> also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes 
>> (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, 
>> dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and 
>> maintained (i.e. complicated)
>>
>> A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially 
>> be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or 
>> a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails 
>> The 
>> Radavist  
>> published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried 
>> about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the 
>> boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least 
>> shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are 
>> cool too. 
>>
>> All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do 
>> with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty 
>> broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. 
>> Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to 
>> lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. 
>> But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with 
>> biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!
>>
>> Laying it all on the line,
>> John in Minnesota
>>
>>
>>
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> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best practice with Sunrace Thumbshifters

2024-02-07 Thread Joe Bernard
Andrew, 

I have one each SunRace shifter and Silver2 to compare. The barrels appear 
to be the same diameter but the SunRace is notably further from the bar, 
and the lever is a smidge longer. Both distance issues are going to create 
the sensation that she's reaching further and pulling the lever through a 
longer arc than the Silver. Does this mean the Silver shifter is more like 
the one that was on her bike? I don't know but my guess..yes!*

*Assuming we're talking friction shifters here. I'm no help if she's using 
index.  

Joe Bernard 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:06:00 AM UTC-8 Berkeleyan wrote:

> Brief background, my wife's 1995 B'Stone X0-5 thumb shifters died after a 
> mild crash. I replaced them with the beautiful Sunrace thumbies from the 
> mothership website. Now she complains...
>
> She has Dove bars (like Albatross but more straight-back at the grips) and 
> cork grips, and she was used to the old shifters being closer to her hands 
> than I can get the Sunracers, when mounted in the "outer" position. She 
> tried them mounted as "inner" shifters but couldn't get the knack of using 
> thumbs to press down and finger to left back up. I also think the shifters 
> are further away from the bar than she was used to, and have a longer swing.
>
> When mounted outboard, is there a trick to get less cable pulled so the 
> swing of the shifter is a shorter arc? Maybe that's all about mechanical 
> advantage at the derailer. I'm wondering if anyone else has worked through 
> all the permutations of the "outsider" mounting to find a best way.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: A long rear rack

2024-02-07 Thread luckyturnip
You need a Jaand Expedition rear rack.I might have one in the garage and will check after 5pm but if so, it won’t be very attractive. Liz in Sacramento On Feb 7, 2024, at 12:00, Tom Wyland  wrote:I picked up a cool Dutch twin panniers in Amsterdam for my Platy. I'm putting the large saddlesack and R14 rack on the shelf a bit. The double panniers looked so tiny on the big city bikes, but I can't find a bike rack in the US that has a platform 400mm (15.75 inches) long. Does anyone have a rear rack laying around that has a platform larger than 15 inches? Thanks,TomReston, VA



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[RBW] ISO: A long rear rack

2024-02-07 Thread Tom Wyland
I picked up a cool Dutch twin panniers in Amsterdam for my Platy. I'm 
putting the large saddlesack and R14 rack on the shelf a bit. 
The double panniers looked so tiny on the big city bikes, but I can't find 
a bike rack in the US that has a platform 400mm (15.75 inches) long. 
Does anyone have a rear rack laying around that has a platform larger than 
15 inches? 

Thanks,
Tom
Reston, VA


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[RBW] Re: Updates/Upgrades

2024-02-07 Thread DavidP
A new bike or setup is the easy way to re-engage with riding - "I've done 
enough of (x) I want to try (y)  so I need a ." I have built lots of bikes because my tendency is to 
want to start with a new canvas and to not give up what I have. I also 
really enjoy the process of conceptualizing and building up a bike. Since 
there is no perfect bike I try to have a bike for everything I want to do, 
including variations which means I have bikes that end up being pretty 
similar in some respects but the stable on a whole covers a big range of 
riding.

That said I do also switch bikes up in attempt to stem the flow of new 
bikes into the garage while still having a build project. In the best cases 
changing a bike up can make a drastic difference, but usually it is 
improving on a bike I already like very much. 

In terms of rekindling engagement without changing equipment, I find it 
helps to take the focus off the bike and put it onto some experiential goal 
- riding new distances, exploring new routes and places (wandrer.earth is 
great motivation for this), and focusing on bike related activities (S24Os, 
coffee outside, etc.) can all help. To that end maybe Bill's 2024 goal 
thread 
 
would be helpful. 

And going full circle, if you want a new project then these things can help 
direct/justify it.

-Dave 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:04:24 PM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hey Owners Bunch Family,
>
> I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a week(or 
> more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things interesting?
>
> I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it as 
> I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it again. 
> This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and dropping my 
> rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly more naked set 
> up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've been riding more 
> trails lately. 
>
> What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not 
> in love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some 
> spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs 
> throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading 
> setups and frames. 
>
> Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical 
> rabbit hole with me! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Updates/Upgrades

2024-02-07 Thread Drew Fitchette
Thanks Patrick, appreciate your insight.

I bought this frame thinking the bike would be my "swiss army knife", but I 
actually find the longboard feel leaves a bit to be desired in terms of 
"get up and go"

That being said, no matter how much I load it up with, the ride quality 
feels exactly the same. So credit to Riv for what it's built for!

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:34:53 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I should add that all of what I recommended presumes that you've got a 
> basic idea of or "feel" for what you do want a bike to ride like. If you 
> are still in the experimental stage, there's nothing like just riding lots 
> and lots of different bikes to make the idea or feel more precise.
>
> On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:29 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> For me, learning what I really want, and then buying or building that 
>> instead of trying to make something that isn't that into something that I 
>> want, has taken decades and thousands of dollars. For instance, it took 17 
>> years to accept that the lovely 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv Road custom just 
>> didn't ride the way I like bikes to ride (basically, it was sluggish) and 
>> to finally commission, after 3-5 years of fretting, a replacement from 
>> Chauncey Matthews (that entirely lived up to my hope).
>>
>> Sunk costs: if you have something paid for that doesn't quite work, it 
>> might be worthwhile to invest a bit more to see if relatively minor 
>> modifications might make it work; new tires, new bar, new cockpit setup and 
>> rider position. In my case, the 2016 Matthews fat tire road bike only 
>> started handling like my Riv Roads when I finally installed 50 mm Soma 
>> Supple Vitesse tires in 2023.
>>
>> But there's often a point, I've found, where you realize that nothing can 
>> change the nature of the thing that frets you, and that it's time to sell 
>> it and move on to something more likely.
>>
>> If after years and thousands of miles the Atlantis doesn't work for you, 
>> sell it -- you'll easily recoup your cost -- and find something else.
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:04 PM Drew Fitchette  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Owners Bunch Family,
>>>
>>> I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a 
>>> week(or more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things 
>>> interesting?
>>>
>>> I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it 
>>> as I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it 
>>> again. This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and 
>>> dropping my rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly 
>>> more naked set up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've 
>>> been riding more trails lately. 
>>>
>>> What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not 
>>> in love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some 
>>> spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs 
>>> throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading 
>>> setups and frames. 
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical 
>>> rabbit hole with me! 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/14251bb3-0d89-4a11-a420-b839800d403cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

-- 
You received this message because you are 

Re: [RBW] Updates/Upgrades

2024-02-07 Thread Patrick Moore
I should add that all of what I recommended presumes that you've got a
basic idea of or "feel" for what you do want a bike to ride like. If you
are still in the experimental stage, there's nothing like just riding lots
and lots of different bikes to make the idea or feel more precise.

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:29 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> For me, learning what I really want, and then buying or building that
> instead of trying to make something that isn't that into something that I
> want, has taken decades and thousands of dollars. For instance, it took 17
> years to accept that the lovely 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv Road custom just
> didn't ride the way I like bikes to ride (basically, it was sluggish) and
> to finally commission, after 3-5 years of fretting, a replacement from
> Chauncey Matthews (that entirely lived up to my hope).
>
> Sunk costs: if you have something paid for that doesn't quite work, it
> might be worthwhile to invest a bit more to see if relatively minor
> modifications might make it work; new tires, new bar, new cockpit setup and
> rider position. In my case, the 2016 Matthews fat tire road bike only
> started handling like my Riv Roads when I finally installed 50 mm Soma
> Supple Vitesse tires in 2023.
>
> But there's often a point, I've found, where you realize that nothing can
> change the nature of the thing that frets you, and that it's time to sell
> it and move on to something more likely.
>
> If after years and thousands of miles the Atlantis doesn't work for you,
> sell it -- you'll easily recoup your cost -- and find something else.
>
> On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:04 PM Drew Fitchette 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey Owners Bunch Family,
>>
>> I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a week(or
>> more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things interesting?
>>
>> I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it
>> as I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it
>> again. This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and
>> dropping my rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly
>> more naked set up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've
>> been riding more trails lately.
>>
>> What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not
>> in love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some
>> spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs
>> throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading
>> setups and frames.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical
>> rabbit hole with me!
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/14251bb3-0d89-4a11-a420-b839800d403cn%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

-- 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Sun Hoodie Lot

2024-02-07 Thread Dave Grossman
I'd like to find these a good home so $50 takes em all!

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 8:50:38 AM UTC-6 Dave Grossman wrote:

> I have a surplus of Sun/Riding/Baselayer/Fishing hoodies and I'd like to 
> pass them on in a bulk buy.
>
> All 7 are in good condition, some with more wear and some stains. I wear a 
> large so they all fit within that range despite being variably sized.
>
> Top row from left to right:
> Champion XL
> Evoshield XL
> Columbia Omni wick L
> Columbia Omni wick L
>
> Bottom row:
> 5-11 (only non hoodie, has collar) M (runs big)
> Carhartt fishing L
> Carhartt fishing L
>
> Asking $80 shipped for it all.
>
> Link to Pics Here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WvsoUrvZriUuTwpC9
>

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Re: [RBW] Updates/Upgrades

2024-02-07 Thread Patrick Moore
For me, learning what I really want, and then buying or building that
instead of trying to make something that isn't that into something that I
want, has taken decades and thousands of dollars. For instance, it took 17
years to accept that the lovely 2003 Curt Goodrich Riv Road custom just
didn't ride the way I like bikes to ride (basically, it was sluggish) and
to finally commission, after 3-5 years of fretting, a replacement from
Chauncey Matthews (that entirely lived up to my hope).

Sunk costs: if you have something paid for that doesn't quite work, it
might be worthwhile to invest a bit more to see if relatively minor
modifications might make it work; new tires, new bar, new cockpit setup and
rider position. In my case, the 2016 Matthews fat tire road bike only
started handling like my Riv Roads when I finally installed 50 mm Soma
Supple Vitesse tires in 2023.

But there's often a point, I've found, where you realize that nothing can
change the nature of the thing that frets you, and that it's time to sell
it and move on to something more likely.

If after years and thousands of miles the Atlantis doesn't work for you,
sell it -- you'll easily recoup your cost -- and find something else.

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 12:04 PM Drew Fitchette 
wrote:

> Hey Owners Bunch Family,
>
> I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a week(or
> more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things interesting?
>
> I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it as
> I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it again.
> This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and dropping my
> rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly more naked set
> up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've been riding more
> trails lately.
>
> What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not
> in love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some
> spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs
> throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading
> setups and frames.
>
> Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical
> rabbit hole with me!
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/14251bb3-0d89-4a11-a420-b839800d403cn%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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[RBW] Updates/Upgrades

2024-02-07 Thread Drew Fitchette
Hey Owners Bunch Family,

I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a week(or 
more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things interesting?

I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it as 
I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it again. 
This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and dropping my 
rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly more naked set 
up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've been riding more 
trails lately. 

What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not in 
love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some 
spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs 
throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading 
setups and frames. 

Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical 
rabbit hole with me! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-07 Thread Berkeleyan
" I have a threaded through-axle with big heavy 17mm nuts, front and back. 
And I carry a Park bottle opener with 17mm socket on the end to remove the 
wheels."

Er, make that 15mm... I was thinking of motorcycle parts at the same time.

- Andrew

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[RBW] Re: Best practice with Sunrace Thumbshifters

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
The way to get more cable pull out of a given shifter is to increase the 
barrel diameter.  That's not straightforward.  If she hates the location as 
well, it's worth deciding if she wants a different shifter with a larger 
barrel diameter.  

The way to get more derailleur motion out of a fixed quantity of cable pull 
from the shifter would be to try alternative cable routing.  Try running 
the cable on the other side of the anchor bolt and see what that does for 
you.  JTEK cable rate multipliers may be fruitful, but ideally you'd find 
somebody who would let you try a JTEK out for free and buy it only if you 
like the results.  Otherwise that could get speedy.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:06:00 AM UTC-8 Berkeleyan wrote:

> Brief background, my wife's 1995 B'Stone X0-5 thumb shifters died after a 
> mild crash. I replaced them with the beautiful Sunrace thumbies from the 
> mothership website. Now she complains...
>
> She has Dove bars (like Albatross but more straight-back at the grips) and 
> cork grips, and she was used to the old shifters being closer to her hands 
> than I can get the Sunracers, when mounted in the "outer" position. She 
> tried them mounted as "inner" shifters but couldn't get the knack of using 
> thumbs to press down and finger to left back up. I also think the shifters 
> are further away from the bar than she was used to, and have a longer swing.
>
> When mounted outboard, is there a trick to get less cable pulled so the 
> swing of the shifter is a shorter arc? Maybe that's all about mechanical 
> advantage at the derailer. I'm wondering if anyone else has worked through 
> all the permutations of the "outsider" mounting to find a best way.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] Best practice with Sunrace Thumbshifters

2024-02-07 Thread Berkeleyan
Brief background, my wife's 1995 B'Stone X0-5 thumb shifters died after a 
mild crash. I replaced them with the beautiful Sunrace thumbies from the 
mothership website. Now she complains...

She has Dove bars (like Albatross but more straight-back at the grips) and 
cork grips, and she was used to the old shifters being closer to her hands 
than I can get the Sunracers, when mounted in the "outer" position. She 
tried them mounted as "inner" shifters but couldn't get the knack of using 
thumbs to press down and finger to left back up. I also think the shifters 
are further away from the bar than she was used to, and have a longer swing.

When mounted outboard, is there a trick to get less cable pulled so the 
swing of the shifter is a shorter arc? Maybe that's all about mechanical 
advantage at the derailer. I'm wondering if anyone else has worked through 
all the permutations of the "outsider" mounting to find a best way.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-07 Thread Berkeleyan
Patrick asks, "Andrew: Do you use a QR axle on your flip flop hub? I 
switched from 17 and 19 cogs on either side of my Phil to a 17/19 Dingle so 
that with the QR axle it's very, very easy and quick to change cogs."

I have a threaded through-axle with big heavy 17mm nuts, front and back. 
And I carry a Park bottle opener with 17mm socket on the end to remove the 
wheels. It works fine, I don't mind the extra effort. And yes, I enjoy the 
QB's up-angled rear forks (dropouts) which let me keep the brake pads 
"pretty much" aligned with the rim when I flip between 17 and 19, or flop 
over to the fixed 16. For a ride in the flats through traffic, I'm on the 
17. If heading up into the lowland hills, I stop and change to the 19. And 
stand on the pedals a lot, and even then sometimes get off and walk.

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 6:54:43 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

Two teeth will require adjusting the axle-bb length. The Quickbeam and 
Roaduno have long track ends to hold the axle (or will the Roaduno have 
long forward-facing horizontals?).

With the chain adjusted for the bigger cog you might be able to ride, just, 
with the chain on the smaller cog, using a freewheel, but the chain will 
certainly be very loose. You would *not* want to do that with a 17/19 t 
Surly Dingle cog!

Andrew: Do you use a QR axle on your flip flop hub? I switched from 17 and 
19 cogs on either side of my Phil to a 17/19 Dingle so that with the QR 
axle it's very, very easy and quick to change cogs.

Patrick "76 inches and 68 inches on the same side" Moore [Sometimes I 
wonder if a 17/20 would not have been better: 64"; but then realize that 
for this bike the 76" cruising gear and a 68" headwind and long incline 
gear is just about perfect; *spot-on* perfect would be 76" / 66".]

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread Richard Rose
That Jones is an absolute no-brainer answer to the op question. That is a screaming deal!Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 7, 2024, at 9:59 AM, Stephen  wrote:Jones bikes were being discussed in another thread, they have some pretty steep discounts at the moment. If your brother fits either a small or large (seems theyre out of mediums) he could get a SWB v2 for $1295. https://jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-swb-v2-complete-bike/On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace listings for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 (ish) HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 2.3" wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, doubletrack, etc.Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and maintained (i.e. complicated)A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails The Radavist published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are cool too. All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!Laying it all on the line,John in Minnesota



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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread Stephen
Jones bikes were being discussed in another thread, they have some pretty 
steep discounts at the moment. If your brother fits either a small or large 
(seems theyre out of mediums) he could get a SWB v2 for $1295.

 https://jonesbikes.com/jones-plus-swb-v2-complete-bike/

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:

> Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."
>
> For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace listings 
> for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 (ish) 
> HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 2.3" 
> wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched 
> derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) 
> stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because 
> that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most 
> people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack 
> in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, 
> doubletrack, etc.
>
> Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with 
> the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing 
> ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper 
> setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes 
> also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes 
> (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, 
> dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and 
> maintained (i.e. complicated)
>
> A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially 
> be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or 
> a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails 
> The 
> Radavist  
> published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried 
> about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the 
> boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least 
> shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are 
> cool too. 
>
> All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do 
> with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty 
> broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. 
> Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to 
> lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. 
> But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with 
> biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!
>
> Laying it all on the line,
> John in Minnesota
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread John
Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."

For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace listings 
for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 (ish) 
HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 2.3" 
wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched 
derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) 
stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because 
that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most 
people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack 
in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, 
doubletrack, etc.

Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with 
the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing 
ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper 
setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes 
also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes 
(sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, 
dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and 
maintained (i.e. complicated)

A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially be 
had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or a 
Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails The 
Radavist  
published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried 
about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the 
boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least 
shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are 
cool too. 

All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do 
with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty 
broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. 
Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to 
lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. 
But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with 
biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!

Laying it all on the line,
John in Minnesota



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[RBW] Re: FS: Dynamo gear and Nitto handlebars (SF Bay)

2024-02-07 Thread 'Steven Seelig' via RBW Owners Bunch
I'm interested in the Dynamo.  I sent a PM.

On Tuesday, February 6, 2024 at 2:55:47 AM UTC-5 CMR wrote:

> Kite bars and Nitto rack sold, albatross bars pending.
>
> Regarding the question: I am only selling because of a lifestyle 
> adjustment. I realized 99% of my rides are a mile long and during day time 
> hours so the money might be better spent on baby food! I have a much 
> cheaper blinkie I am using to be seen. For seeing, dynamo lights are 
> unmatched, with perfect wide beams. And for longer rides I always thought 
> it was worth the price because I never had to worry about a charge, 
> especially since most lights are USB chargeable now without an easy battery 
> back up.
>
> As for the parts, I chose Schmidt because it’s a stunning and high quality 
> hub with famous reliability. I chose the lights because Rivendell and Peter 
> White endorsed them and know more about lights than I ever will.
>
> Happy to answer any other questions!
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 10:04:32 PM UTC-8 chefd...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Chris - I've been thinking about a dynamo set-up for my Homer...I'm 
>> not that familiar with the options, so just reading whatever I can find 
>> about the items you have chosen. Are you upgrading to a new system?
>>
>> I live in Napa and work in SF, so not that far from Menlo Parksd
>>
>> On Sunday, February 4, 2024 at 3:51:23 PM UTC-8 CMR wrote:
>>
>>> Prices are for a local deal picked up in Menlo Park, I am half a mile 
>>> from the Cal Train station. Really hoping not to ship or split parts just 
>>> yet.
>>>
>>> Pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/21267164@N02/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Dynamo set up - $400*
>>>
>>> *Front wheel *Schmidt Son to Mavic Open Sport, butted spokes, all 
>>> silver in good but used condition.
>>>
>>>
>>> *Front Light*Busch and Mueller IQ-XS – silver, used 100 miles, uncut 
>>> cable length, some storage marks pictured.
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/iq-xs-1?_pos=3&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r
>>>
>>>
>>> *Rear Lights*Busch & Müller Toplight Line Brake Plus Pulsating tail 
>>> light – used 25 miles, great condition.
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/dyno-rack-light
>>>
>>> Busch & Müller SecuZED Plus Dyno Tail Light for Fender, Frame or Seat 
>>> Post – looks like it might be missing a bracket, you can likely call Riv 
>>> for one, or MacGyver a threaded attachment.
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/xfhz66816?_pos=2&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r
>>>
>>> B Saddle Rail Bracket – never used
>>> https://www.clevercycles.com/b-m-saddle-rail-bracket.html
>>>
>>> Schmidt dynamo tail light wire
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/schimdt-wire?_pos=6&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r
>>>
>>> Two rear B cables
>>>
>>> Schmidt coaxial connector
>>>
>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/equipment/lights/schmidt-coaxial-adapter/
>>>
>>>
>>> Nitto R14 – used condition, all required hardware – extra $100 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Nitto handlebars – all 3 for $200*Nitto albatross (heat-treated 
>>> aluminum) – unridden but scratched from installing it on a tight stem - $85
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-albatross-bar-cromo-55cm-x-25-4
>>>
>>> Nitto choco bar (heat-treated aluminum) – not pictured, I can send one 
>>> if interested. Ridden 200 miles, scratched from a tight stem but overall 
>>> good condition - $85
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-choco-norm-bar-alu-ht-54cm-x-25-4-100mm-sleeve-tandem-162491
>>>
>>> Nitto kite bars B355 (heat-treated aluminum) – new in package – $50
>>>
>>

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[RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

2024-02-07 Thread Bob B
Asking for my little brother who lives in Flagstaff AZ and wants his first 
“good bike” to go trail riding and bikepacking with his friends. He has a 
pretty good budget but cant go over $1400.


It might not be a Riv. I persuaded one brother to get on a Riv (a Sam). but 
this brother needs something different at the moment.I was thinking a used 
Surly, Sklar (maybe long shot), Crust. Anyone selling or know someone 
selling? Any general recommendations about makes or where to look? Not sure 
what other online communities are out there where B//S/T are done on a 
trust level like this great one and BOB. 

Thanks in advance.

Bob B.
Maplewood, NJ

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

2024-02-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
" I like the idea of a front shifted 2x1 or 3x1 setup. If planning on such 
a setup I'd probably just get a Homer vs the Roaduno because I always end 
up wanting fenders on a bike like this and vertical dropouts make fenders 
so much easier. But I do see that the Roaduno with its 120mm rear spacing 
is a "more pure" implementation of the vision."

I agree with this.  Rather than a RoadUno, a RoadTrio could be a 3x1, with 
a 120mm OLD, vertical dropouts and a tensioner tab with no rear cable stops 
and a single DT shifter boss for a front derailleur.  The RoadUno as 
designed gives some additional flexibility for a pure single speed setup, 
or an NxN single chain length setup, but with vertical dropouts would have 
been super interesting.  

There is at least one really good way to run fenders on horizontal 
dropouts, and that one way I'm thinking about is a rear hub with an allen 
bolt configuration that allows you to remove the bolts entirely and drop 
the wheel straight down.  The Surly hub has axle stubs, so doesn't support 
this method.  The Phil hub does allow a straight-drop wheel removal.  If I 
was setting up a RoadUno, I think that's what I'd do.  I'd run a Phil rear 
hub, slammed forward like Will's email photo, with a triple crank, single 
freewheel, and fenders.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 11:01:59 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:

> A recent Riv newsletter compared the 3x1 to an IGH, saying the 3x1 setup 
> is similar but more mechanically transparent.
>
> If you could setup a rear shifted 1x2 or 1x3 with 8-10t jumps between cogs 
> that might be an interesting comparison. (The largest jump on a megarange 
> freewheel is in this range.)
>
> A question I keep coming back to is whether a 3x1 is more "efficient" than 
> a 1x7/8/9 in terms of drivetrain complexity (mechanically and/or mentally).
>
> Still, I like the idea of a front shifted 2x1 or 3x1 setup. If planning on 
> such a setup I'd probably just get a Homer vs the Roaduno because I always 
> end up wanting fenders on a bike like this and vertical dropouts make 
> fenders so much easier. But I do see that the Roaduno with its 120mm rear 
> spacing is a "more pure" implementation of the vision.
>
> -Dave
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 12:55:20 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I've always wondered what advantages a 2X1 has over a 1X2 if you are 
>> going to use derailleurs -- the 2X1 requires a FD and something like a RD 
>> while the 1X2 requires only the rear one -- but for ss sans derailleur some 
>> people say that front shifting is easier than rear shifting. Not for me, 
>> though.
>>
>> Am eagerly awaiting the close ratio Silver Rivendell IGH (with 
>> proprietary wingnuts).
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 10:51 AM Mathias Steiner  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill said
>>> >> I think the 2x1 or 3x1 concept around the Roaduno is brilliant. 
>>>
>>> ... A 2x1 would give me all the complexities of a rear derailleur, plus 
>>> the poorer shifting of a front system.
>>>
>>
>>

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