[RBW] Re: TA Specialites Cranks at Analog Cycles

[Nick Payne]

When I look at Peter White's website, he sells a pair of Carmina crankarms 
for $243, spider for $92, and a pair of TA chainrings will set you back 
another $100 or so. That's around a $250 saving over the Analog Cycles 
price...

Nick Payne

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Collin A]

Dang, these are some enviable rivs! Definitely a fan of the homer, and 
you can find stems shorter than 70 if needed (down to 0!). When I ran drop 
bars on my Appaloosa I used a 60mm stem and even that felt a hair too long 
given the already long top tube. I also dabbled with a 0mm stem on my clem 
with wide 35 deg backsweep bars, which was 100% too big for me, and it rode 
mostly fine. It did take some miles to get used to it though.

Other bar recommendations would be the Nitto x Fairweather m174aa bars, but 
they sadly seem to be discontinued (can find them used now and again). They 
had 'modern' drop and reach, but had a 25.4 clamp diam.
Fairweather x Nitto Components! - BLUE LUG BLOG 


Wishing you many happy miles on both!
Collin in Berktown

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Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[Bill Lindsay]

"Now...about your new roadeo"

I was kind of expecting it to be delivered today, but Rick emailed me about 
my seat tube decal choice, which I think means that clear coats are still 
to be laid on.  Probably next week is when we can start doing damage on the 
RoadeoRosa.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:03:47 PM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:

> Happy birthday Bill...great way to spend the day
>
> Now...about your new roadeo
>
> Best...Ryan in winnipeg 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:41:42 PM UTC-6 DTL wrote:
>
>> Ride with friends more is a goal of mine. Even once a month would be an 
>> increase for me!
>> And a general ride more with no music / podcast playing / phone not on 
>> the quad lock (when appropriate) - to echo John's sentiment of presence.
>> I have such a good memory of a ride I did a few years ago which was a. on 
>> new terrain and b. no headphones. Both things really cemented the ride in 
>> my brain.
>>
>> On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 12:00:28 PM UTC+11 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> I did my 55 miles on my 55th birthday today, -AND- got my second summit 
>>> of Mount Diablo of 2024 on a second bike.  Last month I rode my Black 
>>> Mountain Cycles road.  Today I rode my 57cm Legolas (in Amethyst Smoke). 
>>>  On Saturday I'll be riding that same Legolas on a 200k brevet with SF 
>>> Randonneurs.  There was still some snow on the sides of the road near the 
>>> summit of Mount Diablo, and the descent was VERY cold, but anything "not 
>>> raining" is a welcome novelty. 
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 8:56:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Earlier I said: 

 "My big picture goals for 2024 include:

 10,000km ridden
 Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes
 Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet
 Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet
 Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer
 Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer
 Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my 
 birthday as a regular event"

 So far so good.  
 -I'm right on the doorstep of a 1000km January, so that's looking good. 
  
 -I've got my 55 mile ride on my 55th birthday planned out, and it will 
 be my second summit of Mount Diablo on bike #2.  
 -I've got my first 200k under my belt, using the bike that I intend to 
 use for the Marin Mountains 200.  That's also a great stepping stone to 
 being ready for the 400.  
 -On my brevet yesterday I snuck off-route a few times to sneak in a few 
 Marin County Wandrer points. 

 Keep taking those W's when you can.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA


 On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"
>
> Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up 
> the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression. 
>  Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The 
> great thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line 
> up 
> your goals to meet the realities of your life.  
>
> Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something 
> very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be 
> healthier" 
> doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to 
> know 
> whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing
>
> Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or 
> not.  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" 
> is 
> a measurement.  
>
> Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do 
> it.  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, 
> but 
> it does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely 
> made 3000 miles, under 5000km.  
>
> Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger 
> objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at 
> extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.  
>
> Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride 
> 200,000 miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely, 
> but it may be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny 
> smart-goals almost weekly.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>
>> The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking - 
>> yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and 
>> maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable, 
>> especially in 

Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[Brady Smith]

Happy Birthday Bill! As a Utahn, I’m a bit jealous of SFR’s frequent winter
brevets. Ours are still a few months off, so I content myself with Nordic
skiing as the weather makes it available, and Zwift races here and there.
Best of luck on the 200k!

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024 at 6:00 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I did my 55 miles on my 55th birthday today, -AND- got my second summit of
> Mount Diablo of 2024 on a second bike.  Last month I rode my Black Mountain
> Cycles road.  Today I rode my 57cm Legolas (in Amethyst Smoke).  On
> Saturday I'll be riding that same Legolas on a 200k brevet with SF
> Randonneurs.  There was still some snow on the sides of the road near the
> summit of Mount Diablo, and the descent was VERY cold, but anything "not
> raining" is a welcome novelty.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 8:56:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Earlier I said:
>>
>> "My big picture goals for 2024 include:
>>
>> 10,000km ridden
>> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes
>> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet
>> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet
>> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer
>> Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer
>> Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my
>> birthday as a regular event"
>>
>> So far so good.
>> -I'm right on the doorstep of a 1000km January, so that's looking good.
>> -I've got my 55 mile ride on my 55th birthday planned out, and it will be
>> my second summit of Mount Diablo on bike #2.
>> -I've got my first 200k under my belt, using the bike that I intend to
>> use for the Marin Mountains 200.  That's also a great stepping stone to
>> being ready for the 400.
>> -On my brevet yesterday I snuck off-route a few times to sneak in a few
>> Marin County Wandrer points.
>>
>> Keep taking those W's when you can.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"
>>>
>>> Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up
>>> the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression.
>>> Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The great
>>> thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line up your
>>> goals to meet the realities of your life.
>>>
>>> Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something
>>> very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be healthier"
>>> doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to know
>>> whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing
>>>
>>> Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or
>>> not.  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" is
>>> a measurement.
>>>
>>> Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do it.
>>>  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, but it
>>> does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely made
>>> 3000 miles, under 5000km.
>>>
>>> Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger
>>> objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at
>>> extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.
>>>
>>> Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride
>>> 200,000 miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely,
>>> but it may be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny
>>> smart-goals almost weekly.
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>>>
 The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking -
 yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and
 maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable,
 especially in these latitudes.  IIRC the last 100 miler I rode was
 something like 2007, the last 100K was maybe a year or two later.  During
 those years I managed to squeeze around 1,500 miles out of the biking
 season (Spring, Summer, & Fall).  Not any more.  I'm lucky to get 500miles
 a year on both road bikes.  I just can't seem to get the time and weather
 to rack up any more than that plus I'm just physically slower than I used
 to be - my 75th is coming up soon.  And, though I hate to bring it up, with
 the advancing age comes a plethora of new medical problems whether physical
 (muscular, joint, or arthritic) or systemic (cardiac, decreasing lung
 function, or just plain fatigue).

 Good luck with your goals, I hope you make them.  When I was 55 I was
 far more able to do similar things than I am now.  BTW, I think you meant
 "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?


 On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 11:22:56 AM UTC-6 Bill 

Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[Ryan]

Happy birthday Bill...great way to spend the day

Now...about your new roadeo

Best...Ryan in winnipeg 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:41:42 PM UTC-6 DTL wrote:

> Ride with friends more is a goal of mine. Even once a month would be an 
> increase for me!
> And a general ride more with no music / podcast playing / phone not on the 
> quad lock (when appropriate) - to echo John's sentiment of presence.
> I have such a good memory of a ride I did a few years ago which was a. on 
> new terrain and b. no headphones. Both things really cemented the ride in 
> my brain.
>
> On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 12:00:28 PM UTC+11 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I did my 55 miles on my 55th birthday today, -AND- got my second summit 
>> of Mount Diablo of 2024 on a second bike.  Last month I rode my Black 
>> Mountain Cycles road.  Today I rode my 57cm Legolas (in Amethyst Smoke). 
>>  On Saturday I'll be riding that same Legolas on a 200k brevet with SF 
>> Randonneurs.  There was still some snow on the sides of the road near the 
>> summit of Mount Diablo, and the descent was VERY cold, but anything "not 
>> raining" is a welcome novelty. 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 8:56:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Earlier I said: 
>>>
>>> "My big picture goals for 2024 include:
>>>
>>> 10,000km ridden
>>> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes
>>> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet
>>> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet
>>> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer
>>> Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer
>>> Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my 
>>> birthday as a regular event"
>>>
>>> So far so good.  
>>> -I'm right on the doorstep of a 1000km January, so that's looking good.  
>>> -I've got my 55 mile ride on my 55th birthday planned out, and it will 
>>> be my second summit of Mount Diablo on bike #2.  
>>> -I've got my first 200k under my belt, using the bike that I intend to 
>>> use for the Marin Mountains 200.  That's also a great stepping stone to 
>>> being ready for the 400.  
>>> -On my brevet yesterday I snuck off-route a few times to sneak in a few 
>>> Marin County Wandrer points. 
>>>
>>> Keep taking those W's when you can.
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"

 Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up 
 the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression. 
  Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The 
 great thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line 
 up 
 your goals to meet the realities of your life.  

 Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something 
 very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be 
 healthier" 
 doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to know 
 whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing

 Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or 
 not.  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" is 
 a measurement.  

 Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do 
 it.  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, 
 but 
 it does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely 
 made 3000 miles, under 5000km.  

 Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger 
 objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at 
 extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.  

 Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride 
 200,000 miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely, 
 but it may be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny 
 smart-goals almost weekly.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA
 On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:

> The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking - 
> yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and 
> maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable, 
> especially in these latitudes.  IIRC the last 100 miler I rode was 
> something like 2007, the last 100K was maybe a year or two later.  During 
> those years I managed to squeeze around 1,500 miles out of the biking 
> season (Spring, Summer, & Fall).  Not any more.  I'm lucky to get 
> 500miles 
> a year on both road bikes.  I just can't seem to get the time and weather 
> to rack up any more than that plus I'm just physically slower than I used 
> to be - my 75th is coming up soon. 

Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[DTL]

Ride with friends more is a goal of mine. Even once a month would be an 
increase for me!
And a general ride more with no music / podcast playing / phone not on the 
quad lock (when appropriate) - to echo John's sentiment of presence.
I have such a good memory of a ride I did a few years ago which was a. on 
new terrain and b. no headphones. Both things really cemented the ride in 
my brain.

On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 12:00:28 PM UTC+11 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> I did my 55 miles on my 55th birthday today, -AND- got my second summit of 
> Mount Diablo of 2024 on a second bike.  Last month I rode my Black Mountain 
> Cycles road.  Today I rode my 57cm Legolas (in Amethyst Smoke).  On 
> Saturday I'll be riding that same Legolas on a 200k brevet with SF 
> Randonneurs.  There was still some snow on the sides of the road near the 
> summit of Mount Diablo, and the descent was VERY cold, but anything "not 
> raining" is a welcome novelty. 
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 8:56:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Earlier I said: 
>>
>> "My big picture goals for 2024 include:
>>
>> 10,000km ridden
>> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes
>> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet
>> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet
>> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer
>> Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer
>> Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my 
>> birthday as a regular event"
>>
>> So far so good.  
>> -I'm right on the doorstep of a 1000km January, so that's looking good.  
>> -I've got my 55 mile ride on my 55th birthday planned out, and it will be 
>> my second summit of Mount Diablo on bike #2.  
>> -I've got my first 200k under my belt, using the bike that I intend to 
>> use for the Marin Mountains 200.  That's also a great stepping stone to 
>> being ready for the 400.  
>> -On my brevet yesterday I snuck off-route a few times to sneak in a few 
>> Marin County Wandrer points. 
>>
>> Keep taking those W's when you can.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"
>>>
>>> Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up 
>>> the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression. 
>>>  Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The 
>>> great thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line up 
>>> your goals to meet the realities of your life.  
>>>
>>> Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something 
>>> very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be healthier" 
>>> doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to know 
>>> whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing
>>>
>>> Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or 
>>> not.  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" is 
>>> a measurement.  
>>>
>>> Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do it. 
>>>  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, but it 
>>> does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely made 
>>> 3000 miles, under 5000km.  
>>>
>>> Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger 
>>> objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at 
>>> extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.  
>>>
>>> Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride 
>>> 200,000 miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely, 
>>> but it may be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny 
>>> smart-goals almost weekly.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>>>
 The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking - 
 yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and 
 maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable, 
 especially in these latitudes.  IIRC the last 100 miler I rode was 
 something like 2007, the last 100K was maybe a year or two later.  During 
 those years I managed to squeeze around 1,500 miles out of the biking 
 season (Spring, Summer, & Fall).  Not any more.  I'm lucky to get 500miles 
 a year on both road bikes.  I just can't seem to get the time and weather 
 to rack up any more than that plus I'm just physically slower than I used 
 to be - my 75th is coming up soon.  And, though I hate to bring it up, 
 with 
 the advancing age comes a plethora of new medical problems whether 
 physical 
 (muscular, joint, or arthritic) or systemic (cardiac, decreasing lung 
 function, or just plain fatigue).

 Good luck with your goals, I hope you 

[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Joe Bernard]

Ah, that bar is indeed quite wide and deep. I tried a 46cm Noodle many 
years ago and it lasted about two weeks on my bike, it felt like the reach 
doubled! 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 5:14:49 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi all, thank you so much for the replies. To answer some questions and 
> provide additional info: 
> Joe you are correct: 55 Cheviot, 54.5 Homer. I had thought about getting a 
> purple Apaloosa when they went on sale last year, but after talking to 
> Rivendell, realized that the Homer was a better fit for my use case. Once I 
> saw they were offering the butternut/mustard/classic Datsun color, I was 
> in. 
>
>  It's tough picking a size without getting a chance to try the bikes 
> first, so I utilized the PBH sizing Riv recommends--but I do think the 
> frame is a bit large, all things considered. Standover does work for me, so 
> I'm hopeful I can get it to work.  I already have the seat forward on the 
> rails, btw. I will swap the stem this weekend and see how that goes. Next 
>  would be  handlebars, going shorter reach and also narrower. (sounds like 
> I shouldn't be afraid of going even shorter.) I'm currently running a 46cm 
> Noodle, which feels wide in addition to long. When I swapped bars on the 
> Breezer, I went with shorter AND narrower, going from 44-42, and both of 
> those changes helped a lot. . Oh, and Chris, thanks for reminding me about 
> handlebar diameter. I forgot about the different standards. I think between 
> bar and stem, I can make it work for me. This bike is beautiful (way more 
> than my pic), and I put a lot of thought into the build. In retrospect, I 
> would have gotten the bike fit first, with the Breezer, to get all the #s I 
> need. 
>
> Also, thank you Liz for the detailed fit info and the suggestion regarding 
> quill/threadless adapters for the bike fit. I was wondering how that would 
> work.
>
> --Eitan
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:
>
>> Agreed, I used to run a 30mm extension (w)right stem from Analog Cycles 
>> paired with a short reach SimWorks Co-Misirlou Bar on my 61 Toyo AHH. I 
>> think a shorter 5cm or even 30mm extension stem will do the trick if you're 
>> set on dropbars 
>> Max 
>>
>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:18:41 AM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point 
>>> on reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
>>> Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
>>> one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 
>>>
>>> What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
>>> This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
>>> a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
>>> diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
>>> reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
>>> another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 
>>>
>>> Chris in Sonoma County
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:
>>>
 If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger 
 frame is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the 
 raw data which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 
 51 
 Homers, we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher 
 meaning 
 the bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube 
 increase of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated 
 with a stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so 
 fit should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 

 On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and 
> you're 
> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree 
> with 
> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>
> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 
> Homer for drops 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 
>> eitanz...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I 
>>> used to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have 
>>> recently 
>>> gotten back into 

[RBW] Re: FS: Panaracer & Rene Herse Tires

[Tony Lockhart]

RH tires sold; thanks Eric.


Panaracer Pasela TourGuards still up for grabs
700c x 32mm
~500 miles on them
$35 local pickup in Pasadena, CA
$50 shipped

Images can be found here . 
Tires already packed in a USPS flat rate shipping box.

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 6:00:27 PM UTC-8 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> RH Snoqualmie Pass
> 700c x 44mm - Extralight Casing
> 50-100 miles on them
> $100 local pickup in Pasadena, CA
> $115 shipped
>
>
> Panaracer Pasela TourGuard
> 700c x 32mm
> ~500 miles on them
> $35 local pickup in Pasadena, CA
> $50 shipped
>
> Images can be found here . 
> Tires already packed in a USPS flat rate shipping box.
>

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[RBW] FS: Panaracer & Rene Herse Tires

[Tony Lockhart]

RH Snoqualmie Pass
700c x 44mm - Extralight Casing
50-100 miles on them
$100 local pickup in Pasadena, CA
$115 shipped


Panaracer Pasela TourGuard
700c x 32mm
~500 miles on them
$35 local pickup in Pasadena, CA
$50 shipped

Images can be found here . 
Tires already packed in a USPS flat rate shipping box.

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Re: [RBW] Susie / Appaloosa indecision

[Hoch in ut]

Gus Boots Willsen is probably one of, if not THE coolest bike model ever. 
I wish they would’ve designated the smaller sizes as Susie and the bigger 
as Gus. 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:37:29 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I agree about the name, I'm mystified that they dropped Gus Boots-Willsen. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:48:43 PM UTC-8 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> I agree with Richard. Although both would serve your needs, if there is 
>> any chance you’ll ride some singletrack, I’d wholeheartedly get the suze. 
>> 2.6” tires with that long wheelbase is a riot. 
>> Caveat is I only have a 6 mile round trip commute. And grocery is 6 mile 
>> trip. So any bike works. If your commute is much longer, I’d say neither 
>> bike would be great. Just get a cheap Trek 420 for the commutes. 
>> The only thing I don’t like about Susie is the name. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 3:16:03 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Others here can no doubt offer more experienced opinions but, I would 
>>> get the Susie and an extra set of wheels. One with 2.5”-2.6” knobbies 
>>> (Honcho, Ehline) for singletrack or other off road stuff (backpacking), and 
>>> the other with 2.0” - 2.25 smoothish tires for more roadish use. Susie is 
>>> such a versatile platform. This of course is my perspective only & reflects 
>>> my preference for off road excursions.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Feb 7, 2024, at 4:23 PM, Brian Thomas  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>>
>>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>>
>>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, 
>>> but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. 
>>> I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>>> fender?).
>>>
>>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or 
>>> owned both.
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Ethan K]

Hi all, thank you so much for the replies. To answer some questions and 
provide additional info: 
Joe you are correct: 55 Cheviot, 54.5 Homer. I had thought about getting a 
purple Apaloosa when they went on sale last year, but after talking to 
Rivendell, realized that the Homer was a better fit for my use case. Once I 
saw they were offering the butternut/mustard/classic Datsun color, I was 
in. 

 It's tough picking a size without getting a chance to try the bikes first, 
so I utilized the PBH sizing Riv recommends--but I do think the frame is a 
bit large, all things considered. Standover does work for me, so I'm 
hopeful I can get it to work.  I already have the seat forward on the 
rails, btw. I will swap the stem this weekend and see how that goes. Next 
 would be  handlebars, going shorter reach and also narrower. (sounds like 
I shouldn't be afraid of going even shorter.) I'm currently running a 46cm 
Noodle, which feels wide in addition to long. When I swapped bars on the 
Breezer, I went with shorter AND narrower, going from 44-42, and both of 
those changes helped a lot. . Oh, and Chris, thanks for reminding me about 
handlebar diameter. I forgot about the different standards. I think between 
bar and stem, I can make it work for me. This bike is beautiful (way more 
than my pic), and I put a lot of thought into the build. In retrospect, I 
would have gotten the bike fit first, with the Breezer, to get all the #s I 
need. 

Also, thank you Liz for the detailed fit info and the suggestion regarding 
quill/threadless adapters for the bike fit. I was wondering how that would 
work.

--Eitan



On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:21:47 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> Agreed, I used to run a 30mm extension (w)right stem from Analog Cycles 
> paired with a short reach SimWorks Co-Misirlou Bar on my 61 Toyo AHH. I 
> think a shorter 5cm or even 30mm extension stem will do the trick if you're 
> set on dropbars 
> Max 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:18:41 AM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point 
>> on reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
>> Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
>> one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 
>>
>> What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
>> This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
>> a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
>> diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
>> reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
>> another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 
>>
>> Chris in Sonoma County
>>
>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:
>>
>>> If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger 
>>> frame is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the 
>>> raw data which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 51 
>>> Homers, we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher meaning 
>>> the bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube 
>>> increase of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated 
>>> with a stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so 
>>> fit should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
 photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
 accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
 happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
 bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
 Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
 the Homer kinda big-ish. 

 Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 
 Homer for drops 

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I 
>> used to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently 
>> gotten back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a 
>> professional 
>> bike fit sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended 
>> and reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck 
>> bike 
>> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road 
>> bike 
>> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than 

Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

[Bill Lindsay]

I did my 55 miles on my 55th birthday today, -AND- got my second summit of 
Mount Diablo of 2024 on a second bike.  Last month I rode my Black Mountain 
Cycles road.  Today I rode my 57cm Legolas (in Amethyst Smoke).  On 
Saturday I'll be riding that same Legolas on a 200k brevet with SF 
Randonneurs.  There was still some snow on the sides of the road near the 
summit of Mount Diablo, and the descent was VERY cold, but anything "not 
raining" is a welcome novelty. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 8:56:07 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Earlier I said: 
>
> "My big picture goals for 2024 include:
>
> 10,000km ridden
> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes
> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet
> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet
> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer
> Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer
> Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my 
> birthday as a regular event"
>
> So far so good.  
> -I'm right on the doorstep of a 1000km January, so that's looking good.  
> -I've got my 55 mile ride on my 55th birthday planned out, and it will be 
> my second summit of Mount Diablo on bike #2.  
> -I've got my first 200k under my belt, using the bike that I intend to use 
> for the Marin Mountains 200.  That's also a great stepping stone to being 
> ready for the 400.  
> -On my brevet yesterday I snuck off-route a few times to sneak in a few 
> Marin County Wandrer points. 
>
> Keep taking those W's when you can.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"
>>
>> Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up 
>> the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression. 
>>  Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The 
>> great thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line up 
>> your goals to meet the realities of your life.  
>>
>> Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something 
>> very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be healthier" 
>> doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to know 
>> whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing
>>
>> Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or not. 
>>  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" is a 
>> measurement.  
>>
>> Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do it. 
>>  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, but it 
>> does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely made 
>> 3000 miles, under 5000km.  
>>
>> Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger 
>> objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at 
>> extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.  
>>
>> Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride 200,000 
>> miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely, but it may 
>> be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny smart-goals 
>> almost weekly.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking - 
>>> yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and 
>>> maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable, 
>>> especially in these latitudes.  IIRC the last 100 miler I rode was 
>>> something like 2007, the last 100K was maybe a year or two later.  During 
>>> those years I managed to squeeze around 1,500 miles out of the biking 
>>> season (Spring, Summer, & Fall).  Not any more.  I'm lucky to get 500miles 
>>> a year on both road bikes.  I just can't seem to get the time and weather 
>>> to rack up any more than that plus I'm just physically slower than I used 
>>> to be - my 75th is coming up soon.  And, though I hate to bring it up, with 
>>> the advancing age comes a plethora of new medical problems whether physical 
>>> (muscular, joint, or arthritic) or systemic (cardiac, decreasing lung 
>>> function, or just plain fatigue).
>>>
>>> Good luck with your goals, I hope you make them.  When I was 55 I was 
>>> far more able to do similar things than I am now.  BTW, I think you meant 
>>> "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 11:22:56 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Jock said "but beware the ‘ride your age’ program. I embarked on this 
 years ago and found we too quickly reach the point where the math just 
 doesn’t look so good…i.e. it’s all backwards."

 At what age did you start?  How long did it go?  and when did you 
 decide for yourself that you can no longer do 

[RBW] Re: Susie Build

[Brent Knepper]

good shots Ben!

-Brent in chicagotoo

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 4:35:13 PM UTC-6 Ben Hannon wrote:

> No derail! The forward position has shellac but the ergon grips do not, I 
> think they're a lot softer without shellac and don't mind reapplying every 
> now and then. 
>
> I agree though, these ergons are definitely the most comfy grip I've 
> found, but their color selection is limited, so this is a good way to get 
> the grips but in a more preferential color.
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:38:39 AM UTC-6 John wrote:
>
>> I don't want to derail this thread but I'm really into your Newbaums'd 
>> GA-3s, too! I recently tried Newbaums on some cheap Soma grips and it 
>> turned out pretty good with three coats of shellac helping to hold it all 
>> together. GA-3s have emerged as my favorite comfy grips and I think you've 
>> inspired me to try wrapping them.
>>
>> John in Minnesota
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Report - Santa Monica to Santa Barbara Century

[Keith P.]

Thanks for the kind words Christian! So glad you enjoyed it.

Bill & Patrick - I know the Omata One can be pretty elusive (and very 
pricy). 

I ran into the owner once in a coffee shop here in town and he mentioned 
that they were trying to iron out a new manufacturer and supply chain. 

I would guess that is the cause of their scarcity.

Your best bet would probably be finding one second hand on ebay, 
Craigslist, or offer up . I see them pop up 
from time to time.

k.
On Tuesday, February 6, 2024 at 6:52:40 PM UTC-8 bei...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for a wonderful read and great pics, Keith! The cheering crowds and 
> patient braggart were highlights, but can’t compare with that gorgeous Sam 
> build of yours. The last pic deserves a place on Leah’s “Style on the Bike” 
> thread. Kudos! 
>
> Christian
>
> On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 5:59:42 AM UTC-7 Bill Schairer wrote:
>
>> "Omata One: How does one buy one? I didn't see a "Buy Now" button or a 
>> link to a dealer network."
>>
>> Or even a price?
>>
>> On Sunday, February 4, 2024 at 4:35:06 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Two very interesting adaptations. The Racing Basket weighs the same as 
>>> the custom rear rack on my Matthews #1. And getting digital GPS into an 
>>> anaolgue readout is very appealing.
>>>
>>> Omata One: How does one buy one? I didn't see a "Buy Now" button or a 
>>> link to a dealer network.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Feb 3, 2024 at 2:03 AM Keith Paugh  wrote:
>>>
 ... 

>>>
- The “Racing basket 
” is just a 
Wald basket that they cut down to half height. (I think they look cool)
- The odometer/speedometer is a digital bike computer built into 
analog guts. Omata One  is name. They are so 
rad. Measures speed, time, distance, and elevation gain, and then syncs 
with your phone to record the data. Picked this one up used. 



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[RBW] Re: FS: Dynamo gear and Nitto handlebars (SF Bay)

[CMR]

Still available, thanks!

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:13:29 AM UTC-8 Steven Seelig wrote:

> I'm interested in the Dynamo.  I sent a PM.
>
> On Tuesday, February 6, 2024 at 2:55:47 AM UTC-5 CMR wrote:
>
>> Kite bars and Nitto rack sold, albatross bars pending.
>>
>> Regarding the question: I am only selling because of a lifestyle 
>> adjustment. I realized 99% of my rides are a mile long and during day time 
>> hours so the money might be better spent on baby food! I have a much 
>> cheaper blinkie I am using to be seen. For seeing, dynamo lights are 
>> unmatched, with perfect wide beams. And for longer rides I always thought 
>> it was worth the price because I never had to worry about a charge, 
>> especially since most lights are USB chargeable now without an easy battery 
>> back up.
>>
>> As for the parts, I chose Schmidt because it’s a stunning and high 
>> quality hub with famous reliability. I chose the lights because Rivendell 
>> and Peter White endorsed them and know more about lights than I ever will.
>>
>> Happy to answer any other questions!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 10:04:32 PM UTC-8 chefd...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Chris - I've been thinking about a dynamo set-up for my Homer...I'm 
>>> not that familiar with the options, so just reading whatever I can find 
>>> about the items you have chosen. Are you upgrading to a new system?
>>>
>>> I live in Napa and work in SF, so not that far from Menlo Parksd
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 4, 2024 at 3:51:23 PM UTC-8 CMR wrote:
>>>
 Prices are for a local deal picked up in Menlo Park, I am half a mile 
 from the Cal Train station. Really hoping not to ship or split parts just 
 yet.

 Pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/21267164@N02/



 *Dynamo set up - $400*

 *Front wheel *Schmidt Son to Mavic Open Sport, butted spokes, all 
 silver in good but used condition.


 *Front Light*Busch and Mueller IQ-XS – silver, used 100 miles, uncut 
 cable length, some storage marks pictured.
 https://www.rivbike.com/products/iq-xs-1?_pos=3&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r


 *Rear Lights*Busch & Müller Toplight Line Brake Plus Pulsating tail 
 light – used 25 miles, great condition.
 https://www.rivbike.com/products/dyno-rack-light

 Busch & Müller SecuZED Plus Dyno Tail Light for Fender, Frame or Seat 
 Post – looks like it might be missing a bracket, you can likely call Riv 
 for one, or MacGyver a threaded attachment.
 https://www.rivbike.com/products/xfhz66816?_pos=2&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r

 B Saddle Rail Bracket – never used
 https://www.clevercycles.com/b-m-saddle-rail-bracket.html

 Schmidt dynamo tail light wire

 https://www.rivbike.com/products/schimdt-wire?_pos=6&_sid=8d7b3837c&_ss=r

 Two rear B cables

 Schmidt coaxial connector

 https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/equipment/lights/schmidt-coaxial-adapter/


 Nitto R14 – used condition, all required hardware – extra $100 



 *Nitto handlebars – all 3 for $200*Nitto albatross (heat-treated 
 aluminum) – unridden but scratched from installing it on a tight stem - $85
 https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-albatross-bar-cromo-55cm-x-25-4

 Nitto choco bar (heat-treated aluminum) – not pictured, I can send one 
 if interested. Ridden 200 miles, scratched from a tight stem but overall 
 good condition - $85

 https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-choco-norm-bar-alu-ht-54cm-x-25-4-100mm-sleeve-tandem-162491

 Nitto kite bars B355 (heat-treated aluminum) – new in package – $50

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Bike Hoist recommendation needed

[Roberta]

Ok, finally I found a handyman to help me install this and some other to-do 
jobs, so I'm ready to purchase.  

Is this still "the bomb?"  this is to hang my bike high in a narrow (3') 
hallway.

On Wednesday, May 17, 2023 at 1:23:41 PM UTC-4 Gina wrote:

> Hello, all!
> I'm getting ready to receive my new Clem from the bike mechanic and trying 
> to think through storage solutions in the garage. I searched the group and 
> found this thread which has shown me something that I didn't know was 
> possible but looks like the perfect solution for me so I wanted to see if 
> anyone had purchased  the Tie Boss and could provide any feedback on its 
> utility. Many thanks in advance! 
>
> On Friday, September 9, 2022 at 2:35:47 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Or, perhaps Laing's suggest is a great one--hook around tire rims on both 
>> front and back...
>>
>> I know accounting software...not so good at physics.
>>
>> On Friday, September 9, 2022 at 5:33:52 PM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:
>>
>>> Wow, such positive feedback on this item!  To me, all these pulley items 
>>> looked the same.  I could put one around my stem and one on the seatpost or 
>>> that area where all the tubes meet at the top of the seatpost.  Or wherever 
>>> the group suggests.  Strength is not my strength and I'll need to pull and 
>>> lower the bike by myself.  I'm looking forward to finding that video.  I 
>>> did see some pictures.
>>>
>>> Laing, I never thought of hooking it somewhere else (knock me on the 
>>> forehead)! perhaps higher than the tire suggestion, like on the 
>>> toptube/seat tub intersection so all the weight is below that point.
>>>
>>> I'll be having an handyman install it, but I have to let him know what 
>>> to install.
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 9, 2022 at 3:19:17 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Google ...Tie Boss. no  ratchets
 Easy to operate.
 Watch video
 Jon

 On Fri, Sep 9, 2022, 7:42 AM Roberta  wrote:

> I have one a tower leaner bike rack in my 3 ft wide covered breezeway, 
> where I store my bikes parallel to the wall, one bike on top hooks, one 
> sitting on the floor.  The bottom handlebar sticks out, so I've learned 
> to 
> turn sideways to pass it.  The issue is there just isn't enough room or 
> strength for me to pick up a bike and raise it to the top hooks.  I'm 
> working on the strength part.
>
> I was thinking of getting a bike hoist system for the top bike to 
> replace the leaner rack.  I'm not keen on the ones that hook on the 
> saddle.  I could just see it poking holes thru my Brooks B68. Another 
> option is to just use the hoist system to get the bike to the hooks on 
> the 
> rack and then release the pressure on the saddle.
>
> Does anyone have recommendations for a hoist that doesn't hook to the 
> saddle?  I do not have any other room other than parallel to the wall to 
> put the bikes.  I am not strong enough to lift the bikes to a ceiling 
> hook.  Not enough room to have them perpendicular to the wall with hooks.
>
> Bikes are anywhere from 28-35 pounds loaded and each gets ridden at 
> least once a week.  Budget is $50-100, but would spend more for a great 
> solution.  (Right now, my "top" bike is parked in my living room.).  I 
> have 
> one A Homer Hilsen (most likely for top position since its a diamond 
> frame) 
> Platypus mixte and another grocery getter/commuter mixte.
>
> Thanks,
> Roberta 
>
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>  
> 
> .
>


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Re: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

[saintruggler]

I don't presently own a Riv (gasp!) but since others have responded about 
non-Riv frames I'll presume I am still welcome to respond.

I recently swapped from a 46cm Nitto 177 (Noodle) on one bike, which I 
sold, to a 52cm Nitto M137 on my new touring bike. The M137 appears to be 
similar (or the same?) as the Crust x Shaka, but in a slightly narrower 
width. The 52cm measures out to around 47cm at the hoods, but to me it 
feels pretty darn similar to the width of my old Noodle. The difference is 
definitely in the backsweep (less) and flare (more) of the M137. 

Happy to share this non-scientific comparison!

-Eric

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 2:53:27 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks re the Matthews. I'm glad Chauncey built me a couple of frames 
> before he quit the business. I hope to get a second wheelset for RH Fleecer 
> Ridge tires, ~60 mm on similar 27 mm IW rims.
>
> Just had a very nice road ride on another bike with Maes Parallels and as 
> always they felt good in the hooks, on the ramps, on the hoods.
>
> Does VO still make a Maes Parallel clone? They used to; I don't know how 
> wide they made them, though.
>
> On Thu, Feb 8, 2024 at 9:42 AM Josh Lubben  wrote:
>
>> Tim, the Nitto x Crust Shaka bar was one that had caught my attention. 
>> Wide but not overly wide. Not too much flare. Glad to hear you like it.
>>
>> Patrick, that is a lovely Matthews above. The Maes Parallels looks 
>> interesting, I wish it were offered in a slightly wider size than the 46cm. 
>>
>> The last drop bar I used consistently for a few years (on a Surly Cross 
>> Check) was a 50 cm Curve Walmer bar. This was after many roadie years on 44 
>> cm bars. I quite like the wider Walmer bar, but thought the flare of the 
>> drops was too much. I'm thinking toward something around 48-50 cm width 
>> would be nice.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:33:43 PM UTC-5 
>> ber...@bernardduhon.com wrote:
>>
>>> Tried several including Rene Hearse Randonner & found the bends in the 
>>> bar left little room for the hands. 
>>>
>>> Have Settled on the Nitto “noodle” that Riv sells Nitto number is 177.  
>>> I find the bends & drop just right and the Tops & ramps roomy.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  *On 
>>> Behalf Of *Josh Lubben
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 7, 2024 12:29 PM
>>> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
>>> *Subject:* [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Hi All!
>>>
>>> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love 
>>> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel 
>>> like a completely different bike. 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever 
>>> Rivendell you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for 
>>> my Homer, so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your 
>>> thoughts on that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title 
>>> suggests, I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use. 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your 
>>> Riv, what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can 
>>> be impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how 
>>> much of change you experience in stem length.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Thanks! 
>>>
>>> Josh 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56efdc9c-9262-49d5-9c23-e8686206e3bcn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a118dac0-347e-4cb7-83bc-03c95cf2074cn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But 

Re: [RBW] Re: Lugged Susie at Hope Cyclery

[Richard Rose]

I am a og cult member.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 8, 2024, at 4:21 PM, maxcr  wrote:I might be alone here but I think the fillet brazed version will have a cult following in the next years... I'm so tempted (it's my size) but truly don't need / cannot buy another bike.On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 1:29:23 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:While I agree that this would be a great deal for someone I wanted to point out that this is the fillet brazed version and not the new lugged version that are on pre-sale at Riv HQ today. On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:42:52 AM UTC-5 rolling...@gmail.com wrote:Hey all,Sharing a screenshot from Hope Cyclery's insta feed with some details on this almost-complete Susie that's up for sale. Just needs shifters, grips and pedals. Jarrod's closing his store soon and somehow this bike is still hanging around. He'd love to find it a loving home before he hits the road. You can contact Jarrod through his website or you can google the shop name and get the phone number.  



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Re: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks re the Matthews. I'm glad Chauncey built me a couple of frames
before he quit the business. I hope to get a second wheelset for RH Fleecer
Ridge tires, ~60 mm on similar 27 mm IW rims.

Just had a very nice road ride on another bike with Maes Parallels and as
always they felt good in the hooks, on the ramps, on the hoods.

Does VO still make a Maes Parallel clone? They used to; I don't know how
wide they made them, though.

On Thu, Feb 8, 2024 at 9:42 AM Josh Lubben  wrote:

> Tim, the Nitto x Crust Shaka bar was one that had caught my attention.
> Wide but not overly wide. Not too much flare. Glad to hear you like it.
>
> Patrick, that is a lovely Matthews above. The Maes Parallels looks
> interesting, I wish it were offered in a slightly wider size than the 46cm.
>
> The last drop bar I used consistently for a few years (on a Surly Cross
> Check) was a 50 cm Curve Walmer bar. This was after many roadie years on 44
> cm bars. I quite like the wider Walmer bar, but thought the flare of the
> drops was too much. I'm thinking toward something around 48-50 cm width
> would be nice.
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:33:43 PM UTC-5 ber...@bernardduhon.com
> wrote:
>
>> Tried several including Rene Hearse Randonner & found the bends in the
>> bar left little room for the hands.
>>
>> Have Settled on the Nitto “noodle” that Riv sells Nitto number is 177.  I
>> find the bends & drop just right and the Tops & ramps roomy.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  *On
>> Behalf Of *Josh Lubben
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 7, 2024 12:29 PM
>> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
>> *Subject:* [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi All!
>>
>> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love
>> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel
>> like a completely different bike.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever
>> Rivendell you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for
>> my Homer, so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your
>> thoughts on that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title
>> suggests, I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv,
>> what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be
>> impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much
>> of change you experience in stem length.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> --
>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56efdc9c-9262-49d5-9c23-e8686206e3bcn%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
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---

Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
services

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

[Ben Hannon]

No derail! The forward position has shellac but the ergon grips do not, I 
think they're a lot softer without shellac and don't mind reapplying every 
now and then. 

I agree though, these ergons are definitely the most comfy grip I've found, 
but their color selection is limited, so this is a good way to get the 
grips but in a more preferential color.

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:38:39 AM UTC-6 John wrote:

> I don't want to derail this thread but I'm really into your Newbaums'd 
> GA-3s, too! I recently tried Newbaums on some cheap Soma grips and it 
> turned out pretty good with three coats of shellac helping to hold it all 
> together. GA-3s have emerged as my favorite comfy grips and I think you've 
> inspired me to try wrapping them.
>
> John in Minnesota
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

[Edwin W]

I agree with Neal that those state bicycles are uglier than we typically 
prefer on this refined list, but they are practical, another quality we 
value. A friend of mine got one and while it is not as good as my lugged 
steel fendered, lighted, racked awesome Joe Appa, he doesn't care!

Edwin

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 4:13:13 PM UTC-6 nlerner wrote:

> It seems somehow blasphemous to suggest an ugly bike on the RBW list, but 
> I think there's a ton of practical value in the State Bicycle Co. 
> All-Rounder:
>
>
> https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/4130-steel-bikes/products/4130-all-road-black-canyon-650b-700c
>
> I bought a frameset from them and built it up as my winter commuter (pic 
> attached), but the price for an entire bike with decent components is hard 
> to beat, plus it's shipped out of the OP brother's home state. 
>
> Neal Lerner
> Brookline MA
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:22:22 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> My first thought too. " trail riding and bikepacking with his friends" is 
>> equal to "a knife for meat". You'll have suggestions ranging from a scalpel 
>> to a 2# cleaver.
>>
>> I just read John Watson/Radavist's review of Knolly's new  
>> Tyaughton, 
>>  a modern 
>> steel hardtail trail bike that is admittedly not a beginners' bike but the 
>> terrain where tested is so well described it's worth reading. It's almost 
>> like being there. My grandparents retirerd there and I rode South Mountain 
>> trails long before suspension. Just as I had my insights about geometry and 
>> suitability of mainstream industry geometry in my Ozark Mountain riding, 
>> this place made clear that it had special needs too. Needs that handed me 
>> my backside by the end of the water in my bottles.
>>
>> The write up did a really good job of describing details of modern trail 
>> bike design and the situational benefit of them. Lots of specifics to 
>> absorb and look for on the more mainstream possibilities, either off the 
>> rack or second hand. 
>>
>> Your brother's budget is best suited to a ready to pedal bike. Even a 
>> free frame would a dark hole which that money won't seem to fill, even with 
>> nominal spec parts. The big brands have such purchasing power by volume, 
>> it's the best way to start. This review included some well grounded words 
>> about lower end components as well. 
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:
>>
>>> Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."
>>>
>>> For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace 
>>> listings for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 
>>> (ish) HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 
>>> 2.3" wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched 
>>> derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) 
>>> stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because 
>>> that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most 
>>> people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack 
>>> in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, 
>>> doubletrack, etc.
>>>
>>> Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with 
>>> the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing 
>>> ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper 
>>> setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes 
>>> also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes 
>>> (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, 
>>> dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and 
>>> maintained (i.e. complicated)
>>>
>>> A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially 
>>> be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or 
>>> a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails 
>>> The 
>>> Radavist  
>>> published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried 
>>> about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the 
>>> boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least 
>>> shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are 
>>> cool too. 
>>>
>>> All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to 
>>> do with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty 
>>> broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. 
>>> Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to 
>>> lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. 

[RBW] Re: Lugged Susie at Hope Cyclery

[maxcr]

I might be alone here but I think the fillet brazed version will have a 
cult following in the next years... I'm so tempted (it's my size) but truly 
don't need / cannot buy another bike.

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 1:29:23 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:

> While I agree that this would be a great deal for someone I wanted to 
> point out that this is the fillet brazed version and not the new lugged 
> version that are on pre-sale at Riv HQ today. 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:42:52 AM UTC-5 rolling...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey all,
>> Sharing a screenshot from Hope Cyclery's insta feed with some details on 
>> this almost-complete Susie that's up for sale. Just needs shifters, grips 
>> and pedals. Jarrod's closing his store soon and somehow this bike is still 
>> hanging around. He'd love to find it a loving home before he hits the road. 
>> You can contact Jarrod through his website 
>>  or you can google the shop name 
>> and get the phone number.  
>>
>>
>> [image: Hope_Susie.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

[Heike Larson]

Hi Brian - you say you're sold, not sure on which bike. I'll weigh in for 
the Appa (never having ridden a Susie, though). I use it as my true 
all-rounder here in Southern California. It's my commute bike for 7 miles 
up the hill on pavement to run all kinds of errands, including carrying 
groceries. It's great of my weekend excursions, which often involve a mix 
of pavement and fire roads, anywhere from 20 to 75 miles. It's been 
wonderful to do more off-road things, like a three-day bike camping tour on 
Catalina Island all over gravel roads. I've done some trail riding too and 
plan to do more now that I've added Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires that do 
better on rougher stuff than the road-ish tires the bike came with. All 
that said--I still take out my hardtail fat-tire mountain bike when I want 
to do more challenging trail riding, especially crossing creeks or tighter 
single-track--but that doesn't happen very often as I'm not an all out 
mountain biker anymore (never really was doing the extreme stuff.)

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:42:50 AM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:

> Thanks... Good points all around. My city days are about 10 miles round 
> trip, so Hoch's reasoning resonates. I'm much more likely to hit the single 
> track than attempt longer road rides. And frankly the hills and horrifying 
> pavement quality near me warrant big commuter tires anyway ;)
>
> I think I'm sold. Now just watch my internet go out tomorrow at 11:57...
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> They are different bikes, so the only smart move is one of each.  
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>>
>>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>>
>>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, 
>>> but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. 
>>> I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>>> fender?).
>>>
>>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or 
>>> owned both.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

[Johnny Alien]

I agree. With the sloping top tube a 50cm frame fits me similar to a 54cm 
frame with traditional geometry (like a Rambouillet or Saluki...both of 
which I have owned). A 54 will be something similar to a 58. For road 
riding you will have a tough time upsizing and getting a classic fit. One 
of the reasons that Riv loves step over/step thru/etc is because they love 
to size people up and that allows it to be easier but still that wouldn't 
be the way to go if you want a road setup. If I wanted a road frame and I 
absolutely did not want to get on a 50 then I would suggest waiting until 
the Charlie Gallop comes out because the step thru design will allow that 
easier. But even then it would be tough to get a good drop bar setup by 
going larger like that.

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 10:44:22 AM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com wrote:

> HI Doug,
>
> I would really reconsider Will's advice.. In my experience, Riv bikes ride 
> big.. the Bleriot Grant put me on back in the day always felt too large and 
> the AHH I got from my Dad doesn't feel any too large (with drop bars) for 
> me.. I say that as it should have been sized for my Dad and he was a good 
> 2" shorter than me.. at 5'9" (31" PBH and 68cm seat height normally), I 
> wouldn't consider anything larger than a 50cm and I don't think that will 
> feel small by any means.. 
>
> BTW- anyone have a 50cm Roadini they want to move on? :) 
>
> Chris 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:05:25 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Will from Rivendell would recommend a 50 for you as he did for me. I'm 
>> 5'10" (almost) with an 83 PBH. My saddle height is 71.5 cm. But, I'm still 
>> thinking I would prefer a 54.
>> Doug
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:21:17 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the link, I saw that one as well, unfortunately too big.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:51:21 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>>>
 I was just thinking I had seen one recently but it’s a 57. Nonetheless 
 here’s the link:

 [image: 418748400_7019085838173016_3719984432333502610_n.jpg]

 Rivendell Leo Roadini 
 
 facebook.com 
 

 


 On Feb 1, 2024, at 13:30, Doug H.  wrote:

 Judd,

 I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
 height and PBH is for reference?
 Doug

 On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:

> Hello fine folks 
>
> I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
>  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: Lugged Susie at Hope Cyclery

[Tim Bantham]

While I agree that this would be a great deal for someone I wanted to point 
out that this is the fillet brazed version and not the new lugged version 
that are on pre-sale at Riv HQ today. 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:42:52 AM UTC-5 rolling...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hey all,
> Sharing a screenshot from Hope Cyclery's insta feed with some details on 
> this almost-complete Susie that's up for sale. Just needs shifters, grips 
> and pedals. Jarrod's closing his store soon and somehow this bike is still 
> hanging around. He'd love to find it a loving home before he hits the road. 
> You can contact Jarrod through his website 
>  or you can google the shop name 
> and get the phone number.  
>
>
> [image: Hope_Susie.jpg]
>

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[RBW] TA Specialites Cranks at Analog Cycles

[maxcr]

If anyone is looking for some fancy (and $$$) cranks for a build, I just 
saw James listed these beauties on their site. It's the Specialites TA 
Carmina Double Crankset, the chainrings are black but still a great option. 
They also have triples if that's what you're after.

Not sure if you follow them, but just like other bike shops I read in their 
newsletter that business has been tough this year so any purchase will help 
keep another great bike shop in business.

https://analogcycles.com/products/copy-of-specialites-ta-carmina-crankset-complete-94-bcd-double

Max

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[maxcr]

Agreed, I used to run a 30mm extension (w)right stem from Analog Cycles 
paired with a short reach SimWorks Co-Misirlou Bar on my 61 Toyo AHH. I 
think a shorter 5cm or even 30mm extension stem will do the trick if you're 
set on dropbars 
Max 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 11:18:41 AM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com wrote:

> so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point on 
> reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
> Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
> one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 
>
> What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
> This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
> a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
> diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
> reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
> another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 
>
> Chris in Sonoma County
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:
>
>> If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger 
>> frame is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the 
>> raw data which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 51 
>> Homers, we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher meaning 
>> the bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube 
>> increase of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated 
>> with a stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so 
>> fit should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 
>>
>> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
>>> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
>>> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
>>> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
>>> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
>>> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
>>> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
>>> for drops 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I 
> used to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently 
> gotten back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional 
> bike fit sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended 
> and reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck 
> bike 
> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics 
> per 
> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  
> day-long 
> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. 
> I 
> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I 
> am 
> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have 
> about 
> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>
>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so 
>> they 
>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for 
>> them. 
>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is 
>> that 
>> a reasonable assumption?
>>
>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
>> are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you 
>> had 
>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>
>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you 
>> currently an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance 
>> athlete?  Do you want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you 
>> intend to have?  
>>
>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>
>> 

[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

[BrianT]

Thanks... Good points all around. My city days are about 10 miles round 
trip, so Hoch's reasoning resonates. I'm much more likely to hit the single 
track than attempt longer road rides. And frankly the hills and horrifying 
pavement quality near me warrant big commuter tires anyway ;)

I think I'm sold. Now just watch my internet go out tomorrow at 11:57...

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> They are different bikes, so the only smart move is one of each.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an Appaloosa 
>> later this year. Help me commit!
>>
>> I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
>> fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
>> plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
>> The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which would 
>> be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
>> technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 
>>
>> What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, but 
>> I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. I'm 
>> likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
>> clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
>> really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
>> fender?).
>>
>> All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or owned 
>> both.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 62cm Hillborne

[Marcus B]

Reducing price to $3200 shipped.  Bike to be shipped CONUS and insured 
through bikeflights

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:21:23 PM UTC-5 Marcus B wrote:

> Hey gang putting feelers out here…
>
> 62 Sam Hillborne with the double top tube! Everything is in excellent 
> condition and including the frame pump and NOS Velotech computer
>
> -Nitto Technomic stem and Bosco aluminum heat treated bars
> -R559 calipers
> -Dia-compe SS6 levers
> -Sunrace thumbies w Nissen housing
> -Riv built wheelset w Silver hubs
> -3X Silver Crankset w/shimano pedals
> -chain still has just under 50% wear
> -9spd Deore
> -Brooks B17
> -43 SS Gravelkings (about 100 miles on them)
>
> $3500 obo[image: IMG_2625.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?

[Josh Lubben]

Tim, the Nitto x Crust Shaka bar was one that had caught my attention. Wide 
but not overly wide. Not too much flare. Glad to hear you like it.

Patrick, that is a lovely Matthews above. The Maes Parallels looks 
interesting, I wish it were offered in a slightly wider size than the 46cm. 

The last drop bar I used consistently for a few years (on a Surly Cross 
Check) was a 50 cm Curve Walmer bar. This was after many roadie years on 44 
cm bars. I quite like the wider Walmer bar, but thought the flare of the 
drops was too much. I'm thinking toward something around 48-50 cm width 
would be nice.

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:33:43 PM UTC-5 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
wrote:

> Tried several including Rene Hearse Randonner & found the bends in the bar 
> left little room for the hands. 
>
> Have Settled on the Nitto “noodle” that Riv sells Nitto number is 177.  I 
> find the bends & drop just right and the Tops & ramps roomy.
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  *On 
> Behalf Of *Josh Lubben
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 7, 2024 12:29 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] What drop bar do you use on your Riv?
>
>  
>
> Hi All!
>
> I currently have an Albatross bar on my Homer, which I love. I also love 
> doing bar swaps from time to time on my bikes as it can make the bike feel 
> like a completely different bike. 
>
>  
>
> I'm curious to hear what drop bars folks are running on whatever Rivendell 
> you happen to own? I've considered the Crust Towel Rack bar for my Homer, 
> so if you happen to be using one of those I'd love to hear your thoughts on 
> that bar/see any pictures you might have. But as the post title suggests, 
> I'd love to hear about any other drop bars y'all like to use. 
>
>  
>
> Also, if you've switched from a swept back bar to a drop bar on your Riv, 
> what adjustments to stem length did you need to make? I know this can be 
> impacted by the bar of choice, but just wanting to get a sense of how much 
> of change you experience in stem length.
>
>  
>
> Thanks! 
>
> Josh 
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/56efdc9c-9262-49d5-9c23-e8686206e3bcn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie / Appaloosa indecision

[Brian McDermott]

I haven't ridden a Susie, but do have an Appaloosa. If you're primarily 
commuting and also doing a little bit of trail stuff, the Appa is built for 
you. A perfect commuter, great for loaded touring, and I've only done light 
local trails with mine so far, which it's great on with Billie bars, but it 
has ample tire clearance that with knobbies and the right bars it would be 
great for rougher trails. Even on pavement, with hands forward of the brake 
levers it feels like a road bike. Truly an all-rounder. 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 1:35:07 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

> I have the MIT Atlantis which is pretty close to the Appa in terms of geo, 
> etc. I mostly commute as well and the Atlantis is supremely comfy (the 
> Bullmoose bars, 2.25” tires, and leather saddle sure help). I hit some 
> mountain bike trails nearby in Marin and it descends confidently and climbs 
> securely. It’s better on not so tight singletrack (as is the case with all 
> of the long chanstay Rivs). 
>
> I commute from San Francisco to South San Francisco every workday with a 
> load in the front basket and I also use my bike for shopping and all 
> errands, at times helped by a B.O.B. trailer. The Atlantis is just … a 
> great all-rounder. I would imagine that the Appa will be that for you. 
> Perfunctory low-res image attached :)
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 10:12:18 PM UTC-8 Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
>> I think you could make either work for what you want to do and would be a 
>> pleasure to own. That said, I would opt for the Susie because of its 
>> uniqueness. I can't think of an off-the-shelf frame that offers the 
>> combination of design elements that the Susie does using lugs and fillet 
>> brazing, and I expect it will always be tough to find one in the used 
>> market.
>>
>> Ed C.
>> Redondo Beach, CA
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> They are different bikes, so the only smart move is one of each.  
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:23:50 PM UTC-8 BrianT wrote:
>>>
 Hey Everyone. I'm seriously torn between a lugged Susie and an 
 Appaloosa later this year. Help me commit!

 I commute and run errands (no question that's most of my mileage), but 
 fun rides are always in seek of trails with pavement as needed: day rides 
 plus occasional camping. I think each bike is overkill in a different way. 
 The Appaloosa is capable of longer distances and heavier loads, which 
 would 
 be pretty rare for me. The bigger tires on the Susie would open up more 
 technical singletrack, which would be similarly rare. 

 What to do? I like the idea of the Appaloosa's more traditional look, 
 but I like the Susie's higher handlebars and increased crotch clearance. 
 I'm likely to want fenders, so I may end up not using the Susie's tire 
 clearance to full advantage (sidebar: what's the biggest tire that will 
 really fit under a B65? B69? Anyone know of another decent-looking jumbo 
 fender?).

 All opinions welcome, with special thanks to anyone who's ridden or 
 owned both.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Chris Fly]

so I have a first gen Homer with drop bars and I totally get your point on 
reach, they do seem to be long bikes.. at least with drop bars fitted. 
Plus, I firmly believe the Riv folks tend to skew to putting folks a bike 
one size too large for them (at least in my experience).. 

What I did was get the Velo Orange quill stem with removable faceplate. 
This stem allows you to use 31.8 bars (or smaller with shims) and opens up 
a TON more bar options than a traditional quill stem with the smaller 
diameters. I'm currently using Salsa Cowbell bars as they have a shorter 
reach and shorter drop that I MUCH prefer over something like a Noodle.. 
another point is the wider the bars, the longer the reach will feel.. 

Chris in Sonoma County

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 7:31:28 AM UTC-8 ian m wrote:

> If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger frame 
> is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the raw data 
> which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 51 Homers, 
> we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher meaning the 
> bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube increase 
> of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated with a 
> stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so fit 
> should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 
>
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
>> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
>> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
>> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
>> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
>> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
>> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
>> for drops 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
 to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
 back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike 
 fit 
 sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
 reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
 "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
 with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
 se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
 rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
 adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
 comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. 
 I 
 was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
 thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
 a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are a few thoughts:
>
> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so 
> they 
> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for 
> them. 
>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is 
> that 
> a reasonable assumption?
>
> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
> are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you 
> had 
> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>
> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you 
> currently an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance 
> athlete?  Do you want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you 
> intend to have?  
>
> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
>> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
>> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
>> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, 

[RBW] Re: FS: 1997 Road Standard - 57cm on the Ebay

[George Schick]

@#$%&!!  Seems like every time something like this becomes available it's 
always in a big frame size!  Groan...


On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:51:47 AM UTC-6 josh.yo...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Gorgeous bike!
>
> Hard to tell if it’s a “fair” price until the auction ends though. This 
> one is going to go big I think. 
>
> Josh
> Bainbridge Island, WA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 1997 Road Standard - 57cm on the Ebay

[Josh (BertoBerg)]

Gorgeous bike!

Hard to tell if it’s a “fair” price until the auction ends though. This one 
is going to go big I think. 

Josh
Bainbridge Island, WA

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO 54 cm Roadini

[Chris Fly]

HI Doug,

I would really reconsider Will's advice.. In my experience, Riv bikes ride 
big.. the Bleriot Grant put me on back in the day always felt too large and 
the AHH I got from my Dad doesn't feel any too large (with drop bars) for 
me.. I say that as it should have been sized for my Dad and he was a good 
2" shorter than me.. at 5'9" (31" PBH and 68cm seat height normally), I 
wouldn't consider anything larger than a 50cm and I don't think that will 
feel small by any means.. 

BTW- anyone have a 50cm Roadini they want to move on? :) 

Chris 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:05:25 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

> Will from Rivendell would recommend a 50 for you as he did for me. I'm 
> 5'10" (almost) with an 83 PBH. My saddle height is 71.5 cm. But, I'm still 
> thinking I would prefer a 54.
> Doug
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:21:17 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the link, I saw that one as well, unfortunately too big.
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:51:21 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>>
>>> I was just thinking I had seen one recently but it’s a 57. Nonetheless 
>>> here’s the link:
>>>
>>> [image: 418748400_7019085838173016_3719984432333502610_n.jpg]
>>>
>>> Rivendell Leo Roadini 
>>> 
>>> facebook.com 
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Feb 1, 2024, at 13:30, Doug H.  wrote:
>>>
>>> Judd,
>>>
>>> I was in the same boat recently, actually still am. Can I ask what your 
>>> height and PBH is for reference?
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 4:20:19 PM UTC-5 Judd Levy wrote:
>>>
 Hello fine folks 

 I am looking for a 54cm Roadini, no preferences for year or color. 
  Prefer complete but open to frame as well, thanks.

>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/85738bba-a399-45e7-8a1b-ac5fbf7646bcn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Build

[John]

I don't want to derail this thread but I'm really into your Newbaums'd 
GA-3s, too! I recently tried Newbaums on some cheap Soma grips and it 
turned out pretty good with three coats of shellac helping to hold it all 
together. GA-3s have emerged as my favorite comfy grips and I think you've 
inspired me to try wrapping them.

John in Minnesota

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[ian m]

If the standover height is acceptable, then I would argue the larger frame 
is going to lead to a better fit. I have a hard time with just the raw data 
which is why I like using bike insights. Comparing the 54.5 and 51 Homers, 
we can see a few important points: the stack is much higher meaning the 
bars are already starting higher. Even with an effective top tube increase 
of 15mm, the reach is only 1mm more on the 54.5. Easily mitigated with a 
stem. Seat is going to land on the same axis with either size, so fit 
should be very similar with less seatpost and stem showing. 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>
> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
> for drops 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
>>> to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
>>> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
>>> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
>>> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
>>> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
>>> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
>>> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
>>> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
>>> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
>>> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
>>> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
>>> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
>>> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Here are a few thoughts:

 People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
 time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
 can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for 
 them. 
  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
 a reasonable assumption?

 People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
 are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
 understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you 
 had 
 anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  

 This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
 an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do 
 you 
 want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  

 Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, 
> Paul, 
> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>
>
> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>
> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>
> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, 
> the 
> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>
> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars 
> a 
> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the 

[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Tim Bantham]

If you want to use drops on your Homer I would say don't have any concerns 
over shortening the stem to 5cm or even less. I've done that on my 62 Sam 
and rides great! 

On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
> photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
> accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
> happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
> bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
> Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
> the Homer kinda big-ish. 
>
> Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
> for drops 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
>>> to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
>>> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
>>> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
>>> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
>>> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
>>> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
>>> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
>>> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
>>> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
>>> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
>>> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
>>> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
>>> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Here are a few thoughts:

 People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
 time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
 can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for 
 them. 
  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
 a reasonable assumption?

 People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
 are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
 understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you 
 had 
 anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  

 This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
 an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do 
 you 
 want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  

 Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
> months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
> this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
> city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, 
> Paul, 
> XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
> Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
> distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:
>
>
> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>
> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>
> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
> zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
> Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, 
> the 
> TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>
> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars 
> a 
> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work 
> I 
> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops 

[RBW] Re: Susie Build

[Nick Shoemaker]

Love your build, Ben! (probably because it reminds me a bit of my blue Clem 
trail bike...) Any tips on the Newbaums-over-Ergons treatment? I love my 
Ergons for their, uh, ergonomics, but yours look so much nicer with the 
tape on top! Shellac, or no?

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:15:32 PM UTC-5 Ben Hannon wrote:

> Thanks everyone!
>
> Regarding the cliffhangers, these are set up tubed, but I do have a pair 
> in 26 that have been tubeless for over a year without issues.
>
> Grips are ergon ga-3s wrapped in newbaums, correct. No issues with the 
> 26.0 in 25.4. I think the argument could be made that it's less likely to 
> slip, but I haven't tested it on too rugged of trails yet.
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 8:01:14 PM UTC-6 kiziria...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Also, the 25.4 faceplater had no issues clamping that 26.0 handlebar?
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 5:59:18 PM UTC-8 Armand Kizirian wrote:
>>
>>> Congratulations! Looks ready to make some great memories. 
>>>
>>> Looks like grips are some Ergon's wrapped in newbaums?
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:37:01 PM UTC-8 thetaper...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 There is nothing quite like the look of a fillet-brazed ATB. Beautiful 
 build.

 On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5 DTL wrote:

> That is a handsome bike!
> Did you set the Cliffhangers up tubeless? If so how did it go?
> On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 8:23:06 AM UTC+11 Ben Hannon wrote:
>
>> I bought a susie frame from a group member here so I figured I'd 
>> share the end product.
>>
>> Wolbis Slugstone 
>> 
>>
>> Part list:
>> Teravail 2.5/2.6 knobbies
>> velocity cliff hangers
>> shutter precision dynamo front hub
>> shimano something or other rear hub
>> thomson masterpiece setback
>> brooks b72
>> nitto fillet faceplater 80mm
>> uncle rhondas upright bath bars
>> sugino crank 175mm with 36/26 
>> dura-ace 2 by FD
>> altus RD
>> jim 7 speed casette
>> riv shifters
>> deore.v brakes
>>
>> Also, if anyone has a fillet faceplater in 10 and wants to trade for 
>> 8 let me know!
>>
>> Ben in Chicago
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Joe Bernard]

I don't know your frame sizes so I'll do some wild guessing based on 
photos: I believe you have a 55cm Cheviot and a 54.5 Homer. If this is 
accurate the effective toptube numbers should be about the same and you're 
happy with the pullback bars on the Chev. Conclusion: the Homer may be a 
bit big for you, which is why the reach to drops is too long. I agree with 
Riv that a 7cm stem should help but I'm concerned that you'll still find 
the Homer kinda big-ish. 

Joe Bernard, who fits a 55 Chev with pullbacks and would need a 51 Homer 
for drops 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 7:34:08 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> What are the sizes of your Riv frames? 
>
> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 4:06:31 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Bill,  I don't have my bike fit completey figure out yet. I used 
>> to bike a lot more 20 years ago (mountain biking) and have recently gotten 
>> back into riding. To your point, I am hoping to get a professional bike fit 
>> sometime in the near future. (Nate Loyal seems well-recommended and 
>> reviewed.)  Not cheap but likely one of the best bang for the buck bike 
>> "upgrades." When I mention "endurance," I am referring more to "road bike 
>> with more relaxed geometry than a race bike," than endurance athletics per 
>> se. I am in decent shape but would like to be able to work up to  day-long 
>> rides, which will require some work on aerobic endurance as well as 
>> adjustments to bike and rider.  Currently I am significantly less 
>> comfortable on the Homer than on the drop-bar Breezer Doppler Pro I have. I 
>> was too stretched on that one until I switched out the bars. The bars I am 
>> thinking of for the Homer are the Velo Orange Rando bars, which have about 
>> a 10mm shorter reach than the Noodle, and will accomodate bar ends. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:42:05 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Here are a few thoughts:
>>>
>>> People who know exactly what works for them figure it out over a long 
>>> time with lots of bikes, and have a set of numbers in their pocket so they 
>>> can know before buying whether a particular will set up correctly for them. 
>>>  It sounds like you don't have that all figured out for yourself.  Is that 
>>> a reasonable assumption?
>>>
>>> People who don't have their fit completely figured out for themselves 
>>> are usually well advised to get a fitting from an experienced fitter who 
>>> understands the target use-case.  Can you find such a person?  Have you had 
>>> anybody who knows about such things look at you while you are riding?  
>>>
>>> This is intended for an endurance/all-road use case.  Are you currently 
>>> an endurance athlete?  Or do you aspire to be an endurance athlete?  Do you 
>>> want the bike to fit the body you have, or the body you intend to have?  
>>>
>>> Those are my thoughts.  Best of luck
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six 
 months I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though 
 this is my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my 
 city bike.  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, 
 XT, etc. . added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv 
 Happisack, which alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the 
 distinctly un-glamorous garage pic:


 [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]

 I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 

 Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a 
 zippy road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the 
 Dia Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the 
 TRP drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 

 [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]





 That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
 comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
 bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
 gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
 an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
 concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
 try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
 fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
 bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
 endurance/all-roadish bike. 

 I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where 
 the bars are 5" above the saddle. 

 Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?

 Thanks!
 --Eitan (in Los Angeles)

>>>

-- 
You 

[RBW] Re: Feeler: ISO extra-small 26er?

[Michael Morrissey]

Hi Everyone,

I know there is a lot of bike knowledge on this board, but I was blown away 
by the detail and thoughtful responses I got to my question. Thank you so 
much! I bought one of the bikes someone suggested from the above posts! I 
got it shipped to my friend's house, and now I'm waiting a few weeks to 
give it to my wife for her birthday. I'll post her reaction in a few weeks 
when her birthday arrives. I hope it fits her and she likes it, and it 
softens her up to let me buy more bikes.

Thanks!

Michael




On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 10:21:51 AM UTC-5 mgst...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have a project that needs a little more work to finish it up…..vintage 
> 531 tubed gitane, originally drop barred 700c, now with 650b wheels; built 
> it up for my wife as a city bike when we lived between 2 places, but now 
> back to one rural life, she rides her OG Glorius, but mostly we’re 
> tandeming.  The Gitane needs its cockpit sorted out, right now it’s a 1x9 
> with flat bars. It’s a very nice bike, she was quite fast on it. I; will 
> post or send photos this eve, am in transit, and just noticing this late to 
> the party
>
> Also i have a Vitus frameset, yes! that one!  Which she also rode, and it 
> was a light fast road experience. 
>
> They’re both fit my wife who is short of leg…we call it, ‘well endowed in 
> the torso’. 
>
> Ron in Western Mass 
>
> On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I'm thinking about getting a new bike for my wife. Currently, she has a 
>> Trek FX. She likes it a lot, but I can't help but think it doesn't fit her 
>> right. She is 5 feet tall, yet the bike has 700x35 tires. The frame is 
>> small but I think it's crazy to have an extra-small bike with the biggest 
>> wheel size. Google "Trek FX 13 inch" and look at this ridiculously 
>> proportioned bicycle. It looks like a penny-farthing.
>>
>> I think she would be much more comfortable on a steel 26" wheeled bike. I 
>> especially like it because I already own 3 vintage 26" mountain bikes as 
>> parts sources. She has expressed interest in getting a lighter bike, more 
>> roadish, with drop bars. She really likes the color blue, so I want to get 
>> her a blue bike. I spoke with a local custom builder, who loved the idea 
>> and quoted me $1800 for a custom frame. 
>>
>> I've got an eBay notification going for the Surly Long Haul Trucker in 
>> extra-small 42cm. This would check all my boxes. 
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone has experience (or ones they will get rid of 
>> cheap) with the smallest of touring bikes: 
>> Joe Appaloosa in 46cm
>> Atlantis in 47cm?
>> Surly Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker in 42cm
>> Clem Smith / Clementine in 45cm 
>> Buy another old Gary Fisher and add drop bars and call it a day? 
>> Others???
>>
>> I'd even consider a 24" wheeled bike for her. Crust bikes made a 
>> Romanceur in 24". Salsa makes a 24" gravel bike that looks really nice too.
>>
>> If anyone has one we could try, we are in NYC.
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> Michael 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: A long rear rack

[Tom Wyland]

Thanks, Liz. I'll pass as I need something closer to 15.5 inches.
If anyone has a rack gathering dust that might fit the bill let me know.

Tom "taking a tape measure to all of his local bike shops" 
Reston, VA

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[Sarah Carlson]

I'm building a Homer now, also to be my endurance bike. I don't do drop 
bars because of a wacky shoulder, and what was recommended to me was the 
Choco bar which has some of qualities of a drop bar, but also a swept back 
quality. I have not tried it yet, but that's what I'm aiming for.

I hope you find a solution that works, it's a beautiful bike.
Sarah

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 1:20:53 PM UTC-8 eitanz...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi all, wanted to introduce myself and my bikes. Over the last six months 
> I went from zero to two Rivendells, and joined this group--though this is 
> my first post: First up, a Cheviot, picked up secondhand, as my city bike. 
>  Previous owner built this up swanky: Son, XTR,, Pacenti, Paul, XT, etc. . 
> added the front and rear racks. I also picked up a Riv Happisack, which 
> alternates with the YEPP mount. Apologies for the distinctly un-glamorous 
> garage pic:
>
>
> [image: IMG_2009.jpeg]
>
> I love this bike. It is exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. 
>
> Last month I took delivery of a Homer,  which I had built up to be a zippy 
> road bike with a classic look: 9 speed friction shifting using the Dia 
> Compe shifters to XT derailleur, Rene Herse crankset, Paul brakes, the TRP 
> drilled brake levers, with Velocity Quill rims on Deore hubs. 
>
> [image: IMG_2739.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> That said, as beautiful as this bike is, I haven't been able to get 
> comfortable on it. I am too stretched out. I have tried raising the bars a 
> bit from these pics, but fundamentally I think the reach is too long. I 
> gave my height/PBH to Antonio at Rivendell, and they set the bike up with 
> an 80mm stem. I have ordered a 70mm version of the stem, though I'm 
> concerned that's getting pretty short. Next step if that's not enough is 
> try a shorter-reach handlebar, in a narrower size.  If that doesn't work I 
> fear I will need to sell the bike. I could replace the drops with upright 
> bars, but I already have the Cheviot and specifically wanted a drop-bar 
> endurance/all-roadish bike. 
>
> I get the need to raise the bars, but I don't want a situation where the 
> bars are 5" above the saddle. 
>
> Any thoughts on other ways to get this bike to fit better?
>
> Thanks!
> --Eitan (in Los Angeles)
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Trail Bike

[ascpgh]

My first thought too. " trail riding and bikepacking with his friends" is 
equal to "a knife for meat". You'll have suggestions ranging from a scalpel 
to a 2# cleaver.

I just read John Watson/Radavist's review of Knolly's new  
Tyaughton, 
 a modern steel 
hardtail trail bike that is admittedly not a beginners' bike but the 
terrain where tested is so well described it's worth reading. It's almost 
like being there. My grandparents retirerd there and I rode South Mountain 
trails long before suspension. Just as I had my insights about geometry and 
suitability of mainstream industry geometry in my Ozark Mountain riding, 
this place made clear that it had special needs too. Needs that handed me 
my backside by the end of the water in my bottles.

The write up did a really good job of describing details of modern trail 
bike design and the situational benefit of them. Lots of specifics to 
absorb and look for on the more mainstream possibilities, either off the 
rack or second hand. 

Your brother's budget is best suited to a ready to pedal bike. Even a free 
frame would a dark hole which that money won't seem to fill, even with 
nominal spec parts. The big brands have such purchasing power by volume, 
it's the best way to start. This review included some well grounded words 
about lower end components as well. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 9:46:49 AM UTC-5 John wrote:

> Trigger warning: opinions regarding "modern mountain bikes."
>
> For $1400 I'd watch the local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace listings 
> for a used hardtail from 2016ish or later. Something with 69 to 66 (ish) 
> HTA. 29er/700 tubeless ready wheels (27.5/650 is OK too) at least 2.3" 
> wide. 1x drive train (46T or more big cog in the rear, clutched 
> derailleur). Dropper post. Wide (650mm or more) handlebars. Short (<60mm) 
> stem. Disc brakes (these will probably end up being hydraulic because 
> that's become standard, although IMO cable actuated is fine for most 
> people). That would cover riding a lot of mountain bike trails/singletrack 
> in and around AZ as well as bikepacking routes on forest and jeep roads, 
> doubletrack, etc.
>
> Modern mountain bikes are really good. The geo works extremely well with 
> the longer top tubes, shorter stems and wider bars. Big wheels have amazing 
> ability to roll over trail obstacles. With a little technique and proper 
> setup these bikes are incredibly comfortable, safe and capable. These bikes 
> also cost more than fully rigid mountain bikes, ATBs, hillibikes 
> (sometimes), whatever you want to call them. They have suspension forks, 
> dropper posts and possibly hydraulic brakes that need to be serviced and 
> maintained (i.e. complicated)
>
> A Surly Karate Monkey or Krampus both fit the bill and could potentially 
> be had for under $1400. A Sklar or Crust is pretty unlikely. Kona Honzo or 
> a Marin are also good bang for the buck. Here's a list of budget hardtails 
> The 
> Radavist  
> published recently. Any used model would be fine. I wouldn't be too worried 
> about the brand, so long as it's a legitimate bike company and checks the 
> boxes above. A mid tier Shimano or Sram group (or at least 
> shifter/derailleur) wold be ideal. The new Microshift 1x drivetrains are 
> cool too. 
>
> All that said, it may be worth honing in on what your brother means to do 
> with the bike. I hate to say it but "trails and bikepacking" is pretty 
> broad by today's standards, especially in AZ and the Four Corners region. 
> Does he plan on riding rocky, steep, technical trails that require you to 
> lift a front wheel or roll down obstacles? There can be lots of that in AZ. 
> But if he has no intention of ever doing that, a fully rigid bike with 
> biggish tires may fit the bill just fine!
>
> Laying it all on the line,
> John in Minnesota
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Intro post, pics of my RIvs, and a Homer fit question

[iamkeith]

Oops.  Never mind.  Don't know why I thought that's what I was looking at.  
Something about the angle of the photo and frame color made my mind jump to 
something that wasn't there.  Being distracted while typing on my 
phone  It all makes more sense now.

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