Eric-
I'm not sure exactly where the photo was taken; we were visiting St. Paul
for the Ramble last month. It's on the west bluff.
I live and commute in Cedar Rapids, IA.
You had flat problems with the Barlow Pass as well as the Lierres? I have
some Mitsuboshi Trimlines to try out once the
Looks like Riv sold these about 15 years ago, according to an archived BOB
list post.
http://search.bikelist.org/beta/ViewMessage.aspx?id=57946
They probably found the last NOS stash somewhere and cleared it out, like
they did with a lot of vintage Suntour. The early catalogs are full of
As far as I understand, they come in two sizes: a 700 / 650 sized one that
you pictured (with angled mounts), and a 26 version (with straight mounts,
presumably to attach to the front of the fork).
Best of luck,
Tim
On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 7:54 PM, Kendallspower kendallfa...@gmail.com
wrote:
is better?
On Friday, November 7, 2014 2:20:20 PM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
As far as I understand, they come in two sizes: a 700 / 650 sized one
that you pictured (with angled mounts), and a 26 version (with straight
mounts, presumably to attach to the front of the fork).
Best of luck,
Tim
I picked up a Nitto M12 for my KOM (which has no other eyelets besides
crown hole and canti), and I'm really satisfied with it. It came with
the canti
bolts http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh2.htm included, and they keep
the brake bolt tension separate from the rack mount. It mounted very
I second what Matt's saying here. If you carried the weight down low in
panniers, it would feel a lot more stable.
When I first set up my girlfriend's San Marcos, she tried a lovely House of
Talents basket
http://houseoftalents.com/shop/bicycle-basket/asungtaba-bike-basket-368/
on the
If everything is clamped down tight, then that should hold. Nitto (and
Riv) hardware is plenty strong. And 1 cm of clearance should be plenty.
However, that seems sub-optimal, for the reasons you already supposed. I
think it would be better to use the upper eyelets on the front. If you
can't
I think all fenders do that on occasion. Maybe you didn't hear it as much
with the plastic fenders?
Yehuda Moon uses it to his advantage, as a weapon in his war against cars.
On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 11:58 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello,
I recently installed H50 Honjos on
Email sent for the Flyer Special and the VO Retro cages
On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 3:26 PM, Anton Tutter atut...@gmail.com wrote:
Sent email for the Nitto cages.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
RBW Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group
I'm pretty sure it's a Mt-Campee. I have one just like yours, and it has
plenty of clearance on a 700c Riv. It's a bit lighter than the ones Riv
designed, but still fits full size panniers. A nice medium size rack, with
Nitto's lovely fillet brazing and nickel plating.
Cheers,
Tim
On Wed, Nov
I also used a Sheldon's nut to mount the tab to the back of the fork. It
resulted in better clearance than with the daruma. I also bent both front
and rear tabs to effectively shorten them and bring the fender as close to
the bridge as possible.
I'm running 45 mm VO fenders over 38 mm tires, so
Jan-
I appreciate cyclocross, but don't participate. I think it reflects my
attitude about racing, which is shared by many in the list. I'm an
unracer. I'm not competitive and prefer to have fun in a group instead of
compete with them.
Cyclocross is intimidating. I appreciate that it's less
Jan-
Your apology is unnecessary, but appreciated. No offense taken, but what
you said sounded like something that would irk me. Thanks for keeping up
the discourse.
I agree that cyclocross is interesting; it's the coolest form of racing
I've spectated.
Cheers,
Tim Gavin
On Mon, Nov 17, 2014
Hey, I laughed out loud. Ciocc and Chong is genius.
On Thu, Nov 20, 2014 at 9:29 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
tough audience
On Wednesday, November 19, 2014 7:33:44 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
Allusions of Ciocc and Chong, I think.
On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 9:12:10 PM UTC-6,
The Mason-Dixon line, aka the Waffle House line. No Waffle Houses north of
the M-D line. I'm a Yankee from Iowa, but I prefer Waffle House to IHOP.
Mmmm, pecan waffles...
I'm not the first to make this observation.
to be smoked. I never saw all the other
parts (jowls, feet, neck, etc) until I visited the South!
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
On Thu, Nov 20, 2014 at 1:57 PM, Goshen Peter uscpeter11...@gmail.com
wrote:
Oh no Ron, lets keep it friendly and agree that Kansas style is the worst
at least?
--
You
Absolutely. I have the adult Fatboy, and it's a very fun ride. The kids'
ones are $1k, but they're pretty well equipped.
People hate on Specialized for several reasons, but not for making lousy
bikes (they don't). And you have to give them credit for beating everyone
else to the 20 and 24 fat
The wide-flare Nitto RM-014 Dirt Drop is pretty darn close, but it's only
available in a 31.8 mm clamp diameter! Maybe Riv could get them to make a
batch with 25.4 or 26.0 clamp diamter, in heat treated aluminum. I'd buy a
couple!
Once I realized that none of my bikes could fit the RM-014 (no 1
There are 22.2 mm cross/interrupter levers available. They come with shims
for 23.8 mm. So they'd fit up.
However, I can't imagine how they'd fit ergonomically. Cross/interrupter
levers are curved away from the bar, to fit in the top of a drop bar. On a
straight or Alba bar, that curve would
I use the Grand Bois Lierre 650 x 38b on my 650-converted Riv Road. I've
had flats, but they are caused by road debris (mostly glass). I average
about 1 puncture a month when commuting on city streets. However, I had no
flats at all for ~440 miles of RAGBRAI, I think because the highways were
That sounds fun, Mark. I'm definitely interested, and Lil probably will be
too.
On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:05 AM, Marc Irwin irwin7...@gmail.com wrote:
Along my travels the past few years a few people have asked about a bike
rally in Michigan. Of course there are a lot of places many people
I was in the same situation as you a couple years ago. I learned from
reading all of Sheldon Brown, internet videos (Part tool has great ones),
and a basic maintenance class at my local bike co-op.
Since then, I've taken a part-time job doing final assembly and maintenance
on bikes at my LBS.
Yep, I had no problems with 9 spd 11-32, a long cage Riv Microshift RD, and
Silver bar-end shifters on my Riv Road with a triple crank.
Well, the plastic washer cracked on one shifter while I was on tour, which
was a hassle. I have a handful of spares now.
However, I swapped the wheels back to
Yeah, great idea for the cable routing, Bill. Looks clean, and stays out
of your way.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
TANTAFL
To be pedantic, It's TANSTAAFL; There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free
Lunch. I just finished reading *The Moon Is A Harsh Mistress*, and
thoroughly enjoyed it.
I also thoroughly enjoy how you applied that principle to bicycle
lighting. It's a good perspective; dynamos are the most
None of the above have a tighter radius than the loop back at the
derailer, and everybody has that
I'm not worried about it.
That makes a lot of sense. Especially since the loop at the rear derailer
is much more exposed to road dirt. We should probably change--or clean and
lube--that
A friend will braze on some rack and fender mounts (I will supervise and
hold his beer) to my Schwinn KOM. Then I'm going to get the frame
powder-coated; I'm thinking clear coat to show off the lugs, maybe with a
light metal flake.
I'm also going to spread the rear to 135 mm from 130, and
I have similar issues with the vintage Shimano XT-M730 cantilevers on my
KOM--if I have the pads as close as I like for nice, strong braking, I
can't pull enough slack on the straddle cable to remove the QR end from the
canti arm.
For me, the QR button on the Tektro TRP RRL levers gives me the
Eric-
Your 650B conversion turned out great! The bars are cool, like a porteur
with a moustache. Maybe you'll iron out the kludges as time goes by, or
maybe they'll remain as this bike's personality.
FYI, Dia-compe 750 centerpulls have just a little more reach (78 mm, vs 73
mm of R559/Silvers)
My Road Standard fits only 28 mm tires with less than 1 mm of clearance at
the brake bridge. :( I believe it had ~10 yr old Shimano 105 dual pivot
sidepull calipers, and they didn't impinge on the very limited clearance.
I got sick of that limitation and now it rides on 650 x 38b tires and
required. ;)
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 9:22 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:
I dunno - my Cross Check is on it's 3rd winter here in Toronto and rust
has developed on most of the parts and on some of the threaded braze-ons. I
treat the frame internally with T9 each
In my experience adding weight to the handlebars will never improve
handling, but then I've never ridden a low trail bike.
Conversely, I've encountered better front handling when the load is carried
in low-riders, like on a Campee Classic rack, Tubus Tara, or Rivendell Hub
Area Racks. A load on
To all, would a bag hanging from the handlebar feel any different than a
bag or basket sitting on a rack attached to the front fender?I will try
some experiments this weekend and see how I can simulate the load I plan to
carry and see how it feels. I've got a couple of cheap Trek rear
On Thu, Jan 15, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
Ah yes, that Bombadil is the one I referenced in my first post. It looks
like the bicycle Lawrence of Arabia would ride. Awesome!
I can see some resemblance.
https://stevemckelvie.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/scan0146.jpg
Kool-Stop pads are a significant improvement over the stock Tektro ones.
Good, clean, frictionless brake housings and cables would help as well.
I found Paul Racers to be a big improvement over Tektros, both in
performance and fender clearance. But then, I got them for maybe 60% of
retail from a
-a-58cm-650B-Hilsen-with-Silver-Caliper-Brakes-with-Kool-Stop-salmons
Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:51:20 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
Kool-Stop pads are a significant improvement over the stock Tektro
ones. Good, clean, frictionless brake housings and cables would
-a-58cm-650B-Hilsen-with-Silver-Caliper-Brakes-with-Kool-Stop-salmons
Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 10:51:20 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
Kool-Stop pads are a significant improvement over the stock Tektro
ones. Good, clean, frictionless brake housings and cables would help
Brooks leather bar tape isn't the same leather as the saddles (that would
be much too thick, of course). It's thinner and has a wax treatment from
the factory (which is noted in the accompanying paperwork, iirc) so it
holds up pretty well without any treatment.
However, I also use Obenauf's on
Jim- I had the same problem on my Riv Road conversion (650x38b), so I
swapped out the long front mudflap for the shorty flap Riv sells.
On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 11:56 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
or you could go with something like this instead
Gorgeous bike. Tough but cuddly.
That is a drawback of R559/Silvers; they intrude upon fender space and push
the front tip downwards into the tire. Paul Racers fixed that for me (any
centerpull would work).
Mark's modification is pretty slick. I've considered splitting the rear
fender
I had a derailer break in exactly the same place. However, mine was am '88
vintage XT M730
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=4a92b92d-00f7-40e0-9694-551ac9e9e554Enum=108
(very solid), and it broke because I picked up one of those little flags
(that mark buried utilities) in the chain and
I'm also a huge fan of the ITS micro knobby on a 26 country bike for
gravel, dirt, pavement, etc. The reverse tread in the center lets them
roll very fast. I like mine around 25-30 psi for gravel, and 30-35 psi for
pavement.
It looks like you can still get the MK3 in 26 x 2.25
Of course. I won't buy it for another month or two, gotta finish taxes
before any more major purchases. That German site has great prices on
anything Shimano, as well as B+M lights, and flat $22 shipping to the US.
Is the Euro weak right now or something?
I assume that the DH-T780 dynamo hub is
Wow, thanks for that link! I see the Man, Ned Overend in that issue,
riding a Paramountain. And there's a Paramountain review in the May/June
issue http://cbklunkers.com/pdf/mayjune_1987.pdf (as well as a 3-page ad
on the '87 MB-1).
I have a Schwinn KOM-10, which is what they branded the
Turns out there is a Schwinn KOM in excellent condition for sale in SF.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4890956296.html
I don't know if I'd pay $650, but it's a great frame and great XT
components.
On Wed, Feb 18, 2015 at 7:40 PM, Bob Cook rcook.i...@gmail.com wrote:
Tim,
That was a
I was gonna say ask the child to hold up the bike while you change the
wheel. But, a child small enough to put in a seat on the bike is probably
unreliable as a maintenance assistant.
:)
On Tue, Jan 27, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On 01/27/2015 04:00 PM, Jim M.
Maybe try an ultrasonic parts washer. The LBS I work at has one, call
around?
I don't know if ultrasonic is ok for the plastic innards. I do know that
it will take the logos off aluminum parts.
On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 12:18 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
OK, I sweat a lot when
I love the M12, it fit my KOM fork perfectly with very little bending. If
you're worried about bending at the weld points, then maybe use clamps or a
vise to isolate the areas you're bending.
Also, I'd bend each arm in one direction only. Bend the top fork arm (that
goes to the brake bolt hole)
I haven't tried Big Bens yet, but I run similar pressure on my 2.1 (55 mm) MK2
tires. They make a little noise and flex a bit in fast turns, but they never
slide out on me.
I've learned from riding my fat bike that soft, noisy tires can be ok (7-8 psi
4.5 studded tires). Of course, there's a
I second what Chris L said regarding geometry. The repack/klunker geometry
makes for a decent cruiser, but isn't as readily adapted for drops.
More aggressive NORBA geometry came a couple years later, around 87-88.
71 head / 74 seat tube angle is characteristic NORBA. My '88 Schwinn KOM
has
Chris-
Intense Tires Systems was a short-lived US design house that seemed
centered around BMX type bike tires. They designed a fast tire for dirt
they called the Micro-Knobby, and eventually the Speedster (an even lower
profile design). I love the 26 x 2.1 Micro Knobbies on my KOM, they make
a
I have a similar-era MTB, an '88 Schwinn KOM
http://mombat.org/MOMBAT/Bikes/1988_Schwinn_KOM.html. It's lugged Tange
Prestige racer, and has the improved (from the Klunkers) NORBA
geometry(71° head
/ 74° seat). So it's a better all-rounder then the earlier
klunker-inspired frames, but still not
A vintage MTB is a gamble, it may be a dud or it may be a jackpot.
Pros:
*Good steel* -- Back when steel was king, the top-end bikes had fantastic
tubing, as good as anything today. (FYI, surface rust and scratches can be
blasted out. Blast and powder coat costs ~$200).
For a lively ride, get a
FYI, the Surly Black Floyd semi-slicks apparently aren't much faster than
Knards. The 3.5 Vee Speedsters are faster. I have a friend that rides a
SS fat bike on those tires all summer, and I ride a related tire (Mk2) in
2.1 on my Schwinn KOM.
On Fri, Jan 9, 2015 at 4:00 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via
Fat Franks are great tires, like a Very Big Apple. But their tread isn't
knobby enough for sloppy surfaces; they're great gravel or dry dirt tires.
For a Schwalbe knobby, the Smart Sam looks like a winner. Available in 55
and 60 mm widths in 559/26 diameter.
Schwalbe's Nobby Nic looks a little
I also use both types of Tubus clamps, and I really like them. One
distinguishing feature: each type can be left on the bike if the rack is
taken off. They use separate bolts for the clamping and the rack mount, so
it's easy to remove and replace the rack.
I've used the mid-fork clamps on my
Compass tires 26 offerings seem quite nice, but I wish they'd offer an
even wider 2 version. I haven't tried the Kojaks personally. I like the
Schwalbe ballooners; I've tried the Fat Frank and Big Apple, but I find
them to ride more sluggishly than my favorite 26 tire:
I can't stop raving about
Yes, they're awesome tires. Fast and fun. Mine are last-gen MK2's at
26x2.1 in the BMX compound/72tpi. I bet the dual compound/185tpi
Speedsters are even faster tires (but I prefer the tread of the MK).
On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 1:14 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
Oh my, Tim, those are
I also use a Zefal for my two bikes that have pump pegs under the top tube.
I use a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive pump clipped under the bottle cage for my
other three bikes. I got spare brackets so each bike has one.
The Micro Floor Drive is like an itsy-bitsy floor pump, with a hose and a
small
Congrats, nice score!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to
1st gen Rivendells (Road Standard, LongLow, All Rounder, and the elusive
Mountain) had those long point fork lugs and Reynolds tubing stickers. 753
frame and 531 fork (753 fork blades were out of production), made by
Waterford. Supposedly a custom butt profile (Grant's been at this a while).
It has the same fork crown, but not the same frame lugs as my '97 Road
Standard.
On Friday, February 13, 2015 at 10:09:36 AM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
1st gen Rivendells (Road Standard, LongLow, All Rounder, and the
elusive Mountain) had those long point fork lugs and Reynolds tubing
protection.
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
What all is involved with initial setup on tubeless? Is there a Riv-ish
guide to doing so?
My LBS told me that I needed to have an air compressor to make the tires
seat, but I have a hard time imagining that to be true. They also said
that if you don't
I wanted to try this, so I recently had my vintage Schwinn KOM frame bead
blasted. My local powder coater wasn't convinced that his coatings would
be as crystal clear as I'd like, so he hooked me up with a former employee
of his who now paints auto finishes. That gent is putting on a couple
The bolt it comes with is too long. You'd have to find a shorter one. It
might have too much forward reach for the rear brakes; I can't tell you
if the spacing matches up front to rear.
The seatpost binder bolt ones will be easier to install and better looking,
imho.
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at
.
Let me know what you have to offer!
Thanks,
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr
Thanks, I found a set of bar-ends on another web list.
On Thursday, January 8, 2015 at 11:51:43 AM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:
I'm looking for a set of 9-speed shifters. I'll take friction (silvers or
similar), 9-speed index, or even 11-speed Campy Ergos, if you just have to
part with a set
While riding yesterday, I noticed that my cranks were wobbling. I stopped
in the nearest bike shop (since I was not in my home town) to see if I
could just tighten it up quickly. The tech tried that and found that the
bottom bracket was shot: the cups have worn too much.
Thankfully, he didn't
I've heard of lots of owners of pulling breeds doing this. It's hard for
these dogs to learn to walk at a human pace, they just love to pull. But
you'd still have to train them to obey on the harness, as your friend
learned.
I've also heard it's recommended to use disc or drum brakes, because
model? Or just dremel off the long part
of the pads?
Thanks for your advice!
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw
Yep, and I doubt those are flying off the shelves either. Even though it's
a better looking watch than the Shinolas, and half the price.
I can appreciate Grant's affinity for fine watches, axes, et al, though
that affinity seems a bit retro-grouchy. I'm not buying them, but some
folks are.
Thanks, David. I'm not usually a fan of red bikes, but the pearl/metallic
darkish red is so much deeper than a solid red color. On last year's
TOMRV, I met a gentleman riding a Waterford custom rando that was the same
Imron color (garnet metallic, I think), but without any cream contrast
panels.
On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
Tim
For the most part you are stuck with the mechanical advantage you've got.
You can influence it a tiny bit with straddle height, but centerpulls, just
like wide profile cantilevers are pretty flat in that respect.
Anton-
The original XT M-730 spindle is offset 4 mm to the drive side. Do I use
~4mm of bottom bracket spacers? Or do I split the difference and use ~2 mm?
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 7:50:22 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:
Depends. The new VO BB
if I would
notice the extra spindle length on the non-drive side with the 127 mm BB.
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
*I work part time in a LBS, so I get to wrench on my own bikes there when
I'm off the clock. They may even have a 127 mm UN-55 in stock, if I need
it.
On Thu, Mar 19, 2015 at 7:33
price, I'd take a Sam
Hillborne (or similar Riv) any day. And seriously, who cares about
watches? Next thing you know, they'll start selling fedoras!
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from
Mike-
I feel ya on wide, supple tires. But in my experience, they can be a crap
shoot for durability.
I've really loved the ride of my Grand Bois Lierre tires on my Riv Road,
but they've proven to be pretty fragile for commuting. I've had numerous
flats and finally had to retire the rear
FYI, these are the standard-length, no-mudflap version, not Longboards.
But a crazy good price!
On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 12:39 PM, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com wrote:
Forgot the link: https://m.rei.com/product/684330/sks-p45-fender-set
--
You received this message because you are
They should add a second set of bottle cage bosses on the back of the seat
tube. They showed a strap-on twofish cage in that position earlier on the
BLUG.
The twofish cage actually works ok, from my experience, but it's ugly.
On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:19 PM, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com
Concur, nothing special. I think it's a '99 Hardrock, according to
Bikepedia.com
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999Brand=SpecializedModel=HardrockType=bike,
about $290 new.
That said, it looks like a versatile, decent bike for getting around town.
It's a steel MTB with a
I also recommend the Crank Brothers multi-tools (although I prefer the M10
without the chain tool because I have a separate one). The M17/M19 does
look decent, if the chain tool is worth a damn.
The M series Crank Brothers tools are very durable; I've had two Park
multi-tools come apart in my
I'm 225# and I ride a Riv Road Standard (Reynolds 753 frame). I do light
touring on it, maybe with a total load of 275# (I was 250# when I bought
it).
My Riv has proven to be strong and capable. The frame seems responsive
enough to give a good ride without being flexy. I have a Giordana racing
On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 11:23:03 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
I'm looking for a rear hub. Let me know what spares you have, or if you
know of a great deal.
130 mm OLD
8/9/10 speed cassette freehub
36 hole
Silver body
Quiet pawls (no loud angry bee hubs)
I'd like something high quality
I recently bought some dynamos and lights from a German bike web site, and
they have Connex chains for decent prices (10SX for $30
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/wippermann-connex-10sx-chain-10-speed-nickel%2C-stainless-steel-32867).
$23 flat shipping to the US, so I stocked up on a lot of
No experience with the new long Rivs, but my three main steel bikes each
have different length top tubes, so they use different stems.
Riv Road Standard, 58.5 cm top tube, 90 mm Technomic Deluxe stem
Giordana, 57 cm top tube, 120 mm Technomic stem
KOM, 63 cm top tube!, 8 cm Dirt Drop stem
By no
shipping on the lights.
Http://www.bike-discount.de I think it was.
Good idea, thanks.
On Monday, March 30, 2015, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:
I recently bought some dynamos and lights from a German bike web site,
and they have Connex chains for decent prices (10SX for $30
Awesome news! I'm among those wanting a 26 x 2 Compass tire.
You don't need much tread gravel, but I hope they have a bit more tread
than the Barlow Pass and similar. Something between a Barlow Pass and a
Rock N Road, basically. The Pasela tread of the thinner Compass 26 tires
would be OK, if
I had the same drag on my 650b converted Riv Road with Longboards mounted
with Sheldon nuts. The short flap is the perfect solution. Sheldon nuts
make fenders so much easier.
Those SKS fenders were lost when the rear ate a stick and accordioned under
the brakes. FYI, my wheel did lock up but I
Yes, you need to insert a spacer to make the nutted brake mount fit
properly in the (wider) recessed brake hole.
Thankfully, Riv sells them for $1 apiece.
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brz2.htm
My question for you, and anyone else that uses *vintage* brakes like
these: Since these are
No, thank you. They're attractive hubs but their noise bothers me like few
things do. Seriously, I'm a very chill person but I find noisy hubs very
irritating.
Also for trade:
Phil Wood freewheel / Synergy wheel set, or just the hubs (new bearings all
around). Rear wheel has a small dent in
.
Thanks!
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send
Yes, Silver shifters from Riv fit on standard Shimano bar-end pods. Be
aware that they're longer and may hit the frame with the handlebars turned
(especially with moustache bars).
I recommend adding a pair of replacement plastic washers
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh12.htm to your order.
Not on a Bullmoose bar, but mounted a Sweetroll
https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Handle-Bar/Sweetroll
to the Jones Loop bars on my fat bike. It works very well, especially with
an add-on pocket
https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Handle-Bar/Pockets
(I
I'm a huge fan of the Tektro TRP RRL brake levers. They have excellent
feel and ergonomics. I have the black/black ones on my KOM and the gum
ones on my Riv (both on Nitto B135 bars).
King Iris cages are the best, hands down.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 1:11 AM, Mike Shaljian mikeshalj...@gmail.com
wrote:
I think you need to be more skeptical of the notion that the Marathons
are, in fact, significantly more flat-resistant than the Barlows. The
higher volume and lower pressure characteristics of the Barlow make it, in
Your understanding is correct, so far. Toe-in is so-called because it
calls to mind a pigeon-toed, inward-pointed stance. As a shoeless deacon,
that image should be easy to picture. :)
Many people put a shim (like a dime, there are better solutions on the web)
behind the rear of the pad when
Be aware that the platform-type carriers made for more than 2 bikes usually
require a 2 receiver hitch. 2 hitch receivers can be hard to find for
cars and car-based SUVs (like the Subaru).
You can add extenders/adapters to neck the 2 hitch down to a smaller 1.25
hitch, but they are much less
Makes me think of a scene last night at the shop I work in.
A 75-year old customer (friend of the owners, apparently) decides he wants
to ride the entire RAGBRAI this year (7 day, ~450 mile supported social
tour).
He goes into a bike shop in Florida (where he winters) and manages to leave
with a
If you want dynamo and less than $200, here's a new set (from Germany, $23
shipping)
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-custom-made-wheel-set-28-with-dynamo-dh-t780-mavic-a319-59527?currency=5delivery_country=191.
XT Trekking hubs (dynamo front), Mavic 319 rims, 32 holes, butted spokes.
For designed-to-fit, the Ostrich DLX panniers
http://www.alexscycle.com/bags-1/side-and-pannier-bag/ are also made
for this rack. And they're pretty darned handsome as well.
For a US source for Ostrich, Soma and VO just recently started carrying
their handlebar and saddle bags, so they
301 - 400 of 1011 matches
Mail list logo
