Re: [RBW] Re: What is a Rivvish bike?

[Orc]

On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 4:21:24 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I can't tell if this question is honest curiosity or the beginning of a 
> semantic debate.  I hope it's the former, because semantic debates are 
> super boring.  
>

  Honest curiosity.There has been a LOT of bicycle design in the last 
160 years, and it's a pretty bold claim to state that every design that 
Grant has made is something bold and unique.I see Riv pushing at the 
edges (tire gigantism, long chainstays & an almost religious faith in the 
benefits of upright seating) but even models that I thought were pretty 
unique (the Rosco Bubbe) have predecessors (in the case of the mtb RB, my 
first half frame was based off a Trek 820 from '91(ish) that has almost 
exactly -- the HT is much shorter on the 820, and the rear triangle is a cm 
or so shorter -- the same geometry as the RB that was briefly in my hands) 
in the field.

  The lugs are really distinctive  (I wish that I'd stocked up on them when 
Riv was still selling grabbag lugs from discontinued models!) and Grant has 
an eye for matching lugs to frames to paint that I've not seen elsewhere 
(and this is nothing to complain about.  If I were buying expensive frames 
-- and if Riv didn't have their religious faith in upright seating -- I'd 
rather buy a pretty and marginally heavier Riv instead of a carbon fiber 
frame.)  

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is a Rivvish bike?

[Orc]

On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 2:09:32 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>   Rivendell does not copy or replicate any old proven designs.  They 
> design bikes that have never been built before by anyone, ever. 
>

   Which frames in particular are you talking about?


   -david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: Looking for Photo

[Orc]

Was the mount part of the rack, or an add-on?  There are a bunch of frame & 
rackmakers who've done the curved mount.  pjw did one fairly recently; 
maybe that was what you saw?

(I've got two machines with eDeluxes, but neither of them have a curved 
mount.)

-david parsons



On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 8:31:51 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Somebody posted a photo of their bike recently, and I need help finding 
> that image (I must have deleted the email). The shot was of the drive side, 
> and showed a bike with a front rack to which was fastened an Edelux 
> headlight on a curved mount.
>
> If that was your bike, please contact me—I’m interested in that mount.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Mounted Rear Dynamo Light?

[Orc]

And also:  I internally route the wiring on most of my machines, but if 
your frame is painted a dark neutral color it's easy to find zipties that 
match so between them, transparent tape, and the dark wiring it's actually 
pretty easy to route the wiring externally and not have things look like a 
sack full of kludges.

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[RBW] Re: Fender Mounted Rear Dynamo Light?

[Orc]

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 8:36:13 AM UTC-7, Tom Norton wrote:
>
> Anyone had any experience with the above type light?


Some.  I prefer to braze a mount onto the NDS seatstay and attach the light 
to that, but it's just as easy to run a power lead out a fender stay and up 
to the light.   A fancy way to do it (credit to Bob K @ Bantam Cycles) is 
to use tiny steel tubing for your fender stay and fish the power lead out 
to the fender through that. 

Many people will run the wiring out from the bottom bracket via the inside 
of the fender (either via peeling open the crimp at the fender edge and 
running the wire through that or just by taping it into place with suitably 
stout tape) but I don't like doing either of those because I don't like to 
put anything in the filth channel between the fender and the tire.   (Plus 
you can't reliably crimp plastic fenders.)

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Garage Sale - Lots of great gear/parts

[Orc]

If it's an A719, it's pretty much gotta be 700c, yes?

-david "I'd snap this up, but I've already got a s3x at home" parsons


On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 2:41:08 PM UTC-7, Shawn Granton wrote:
>
> Thanks Philip, somehow I missed that IG picture. Still would like to know 
> wheel size.
> -Shawn
>
>
> On Oct 16, 2017 14:02, "Philip Williamson"  > wrote:
>
> Hey Shawn, details are in the IG post, second picture. Looks like an S3X 
> with a trigger shifter at a pretty attractive price. I was attracted to 
> it for a freewheel setup, but I have too many spare wheels as it stands.  
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BaSB6DpllLj/?hl=en=isaacenloe 
> "Sturmey Archer S3X internal fixed gear 3 speed hub on a Mavic A719 rim 
> with bar end shifter, cable, and routing. $90 shipped"
>
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
> On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 12:17:51 PM UTC-7, Shawn Granton wrote:
>>
>> Hi there! What are the details on the Sturmey Archer wheel? Like: hub 
>> model, number of speeds, size of wheel, and spoke count.
>> Thanks,
>> Shawn
>
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[RBW] Re: Hanging Edelux + Nitto Big Front

[Orc]

On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 11:25:06 AM UTC-7, Minh wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Has anyone come up with a creative solution for hanging an edelux when 
> using a Nitto Big Front Rack?  it does not have any side bosses that i 
> could use (like you would with a Marks Rack). 
>

Attach it via a p-clamp to one of the front rails (p-clamp + longish bolt + 
nut [to clamp the p- to the rail] + spacers [to get the light out far 
enough to clear the rail + antiDelux + nylock.)A fancy alternative if 
you have a soldering or brazing torch handy would be to get a suitably 
sized piece of allthread, then solder/braze a nut on far enough to clamp 
the p-, then do nylock + p-clamp + previously soldered nut + spacers + 
antiDelux + nylock.

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Diff between slick GravelKing and Compass Babyshoe Pass? Looks the same. Described the same.

[Orc]

Resist Nomad 700x28c, Hutchinson Confrerie des 650b.   The Pari-Moto is a 
little too expensive to go into the cheap category, and the Nomad 35 is 
good, but it's just a tire.

-david parsons

On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 9:35:45 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
> There's that old saying about fast, good, & cheap.  You only get to pick 2 
> of 3.
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 8:47:29 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Lee Legrand very concisely asked: "Huh?" in response to my sarcastic 
>> request for the best tires in the world to be cheap.  It was a sarcastic 
>> comment.  Many many people have learned that better tires are better.  Many 
>> people believe that Compass tires are the best in the world for their given 
>> size.  Many of those people also complain that Compass tires are 
>> expensive.  Some ask participants of the Rivendell Bicycle Works Owners 
>> Bunch Google Group to explain and justify the pricing of Compass Bicycles 
>> Ltd.  I think that state of affairs is amusing on many levels and my 
>> sarcastic post was an attempt to add more amusement to the comedy.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 6:16:47 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>>
>>> I don’t ask for much.  I just want somebody to ignore all costs to 
>>> develop and manufacture the best tires in the world and I want them to sell 
>>> them to me for really really cheap.  What’s so hard about that?!
>>>
>>> Huh?
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
 I don’t ask for much.  I just want somebody to ignore all costs to 
 develop and manufacture the best tires in the world and I want them to 
 sell 
 them to me for really really cheap.  What’s so hard about that?!

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>>>
>>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Need Advice On Lighting System

[Orc]

On Thursday, September 28, 2017 at 10:40:40 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Just a reminder, with the Luxos U, you can have lights, or charge the 
> phone, but not both at once. I think that's the case with the Sinewave too. 
> I don't think the hubs will put out enough power for both.


I don't know about the Luxos, but both the IQ-X and eDelux are pretty 
miserly about their energy consumption;  about half of my wheels use 
Shimano 1n70s (@1.5 watt) and I can't tell any difference between light 
output when I'm running an -X or eDelux off them or a 2.4/3.0 watt dynohub.

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: Wanted: 650b Rear Wheel, or Advice on Which to Buy

[Orc]

On Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 12:17:02 AM UTC-7, Evan E. wrote:
>
> 3. Buy these BIKE 650B WHEELSET RIM BRAKE 27.5 SLVR 130 MM HUB 8/10 SPD 
> WEI ZAC19 36 H wheels from UglyRM on eBay.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIKE-650B-WHEELSET-RIM-BRAKE-27-5-SLVR-130-MM-HUB-8-10-SPD-WEI-ZAC19-36-H-/252604585112?hash=item3ad0681498:g:9f8AAOSw8RJXCUGl
>
> Please talk some sense into me. Budget wheels aren't, right?
>

Those wheels are fine.   The only problem with them is that the rim well is 
pretty deep and you might to put a double layer of cloth tape into them to 
keep part of the tire bead from submerging (one of my machines has a set of 
handbuilt wheels with zac19s and tubeless tape, and Pari-Motos & G-Ones 
need to be seated with soap or talc so the sidewalls can slide up and get 
the beads into seating position.)   If you NEVER EVER want to fuss with 
tires they might not be the wheels for you, but if the fuss isn't a fuss 
$118 shipped is almost line noise.


-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: What's the least expensive 650b slick tire?

[Orc]

Hutchinson Confrérie des 650B (33-34mm) are in the ballpark of $27 from 
xxcycle (plus shipping)


On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 5:17:43 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> No knobs.
> Minimal tread ok, I guess, like a herring bone.
>

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[RBW] Re: First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[Orc]

Sale pending!

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[Orc]

It's 650b;  I looked for the original frame specs but I couldn't find 
anything (looked at the geometry page on main site, looked at the 
ENTIRE http://roscobubbe.tumblr.com site) for the Bubbe-1 mountain mixte 
frames.By hand measuring, it's  54cm ST, 59cm ETT, 71.5(ish) HTA, 72 or 
so STA, 450ish chainstays, and of course an approximately 20cm headtube.

-david parsons

On Sunday, September 10, 2017 at 11:33:43 AM UTC-7, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> What size wheels does it take? Do you have a link for the original frame 
> specs?

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[RBW] Re: First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[Orc]

Aaand I forgot the dimensions:

Effective TT: 590mm
ST:540mm
crank length: 175mm.

-david parsons

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[RBW] First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[Orc]

I've got a never-used-as-anything-except-a-fitting-template first 
generation Rosco Bubbe mixte taking up space in my bike mess that I'd love 
to pass on.I comped it when I smudged the fork while building a rack 
for it (I was able to buff the smudge out so it's not noticeable) but it's 
not my size.


What I'm selling is the frame, the fork, the headset, an ancient kalloy 
stem (used, circa 1989), a shimano BB (used; un26, I think?), a 600ex 
crankset (used; 6206, but fitted as a compact double), seatpost, a Brooks 
Flyer (used & broken in), and a custom 10x8 front rack as shown.


Does $1100 + shipping seem like a good price?






-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: Howdy from central Wisconsin!

[Orc]

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 7:17:07 AM UTC-7, Alex Wirth- Owner, 
Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
> O, welcome! I see no mention of cheese curds in your introwhich 
> seems odd.  Are you sure you're living in Wisconsin?


Short shameful confession:  born & raised in Wisconsin, but never touched 
cheese curds until I'd moved to New Orleans at age 25(ish.)
(Didn't buy a Wisconsin-made bicycle until I out of state, either;  a 
30-pound Schwinn was my machine of choice growing up.)

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: OT: Sewing your own bags?

[Orc]

I've made 20 or so handlebar bags, and in my experience /most/ of the work 
is pretty easy, but the parts that aren't are surprisingly difficult. In 
particular, sewing the corners of the bag & taping the edges are the places 
where you'll end up driving yourself and the sewing machine to despair   
(there's a honorable mention to sewing external pockets on and keeping them 
square and aligned, but if you presew & tape the pocket carcasses and then 
pin them to the not-yet-sewn-together main bag it's fairly straightforward 
to sew them into place with a series of straight seams & bartacked or 
riveted corners.)

I've found that, even with hand-tacking the fabric together and using a 
Pfaff 130 to sew I'll end up hand-stitching the corners & then the tape on 
the corners, because once you get 4-5 layers of fabric 
(tape+carcass+carcass+pocket+tape for the front corners of a rando bag) 
under the presser foot they will /cheerfully/ squirt over to one side and 
cause the seam to stitch itself off the edge of the fabric.

It's also REALLY useful to look at some of the products from some of the 
more successful bagmakers and see the places where they had the stitching 
get away from them.   Not for the purposes of gloating, but to remind 
yourself, when you're looking with loathing at the drunkard's walk of a 
seam that you're picking the thread out of in preparation for another 
attempt, that sewing is often more of a pitched battle to the death no 
matter how good you are at it.

-david "not good at it.  I have too many rando bags that ate 40 hours of my 
life before I got them into ridable shape" parsons.


On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 3:15:15 PM UTC-7, MartyG wrote:
>
> I picked up an industrial sewing machine at a yard sale last weekend. 
> (It's a Mini Brute, looks new. $20!) I seem to recall some members may do 
> this type of work, and I'm interested in giving it a try myself. Anyone 
> care to point me to some good resources for beginners? I have everything to 
> learn, so keep me out of trouble! 
>
> Marty
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone tried a Copenhagen wheel on their Rivbike??

[Orc]

On Saturday, August 26, 2017 at 12:00:04 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Patrick: An electric fixie is madness! Trust me, you don't want a motor 
> pushing pedals that won't freewheel.
>
 
Not necessarily.  The C'wheel would not work (probably?), but a suitably 
clever design could set up to have the motor follow the pedals instead of 
running ahead (probably with some sort of strain meter in the hub to detect 
the pull from the chain -- if there's tension on the cog, produce power, 
otherwise  just sit there and read a book or kick in regenerative braking 
if the strain meter notices that the operator is resisting against the 
pedals.)

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] What do Rivendell riders use for GPS computers?

[Orc]

On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 3:46:01 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Have you considered a “hiking” GPS unit? I rode with a fellow randonneur 
> recently who used a unit something like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-eTrex-Waterproof-Hiking-GPS/dp/B3WGP5 
>
> Benefits include no speed display,
>


I don't know if that's necessarily so.  The eTrex 10 looks like it uses the 
standard Garmin OS with geocatching additions, and at least the Garmin 
website shows an eTrex with a very much bike-computer-style 
speed/distance/elevation/time display   (and the eTrex is about a cheap as 
a (used) iPhone, so if you're starting from a blank slate you'd get a 
better GPS receiver in exchange for not having a Unix system in your rando 
bag.)

-david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for GPS computers?

[Orc]

On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 2:44:03 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Next in the series (
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/what$20do$20rivendell$20riders%7Csort:relevance
> ):
>
> What do you all use for gps units on your bikes?
>

If trip distance, total distance,and climb are all you're interested in & 
you've got a smartphone + an external battery, strava, ridewithgps, 
mapmyride, or the like are basically what you're looking for; you can start 
the program, plug the phone into the battery, then hurl the both of them 
into your rando bag and leave them there until you're done with the ride.   
   (I use ridewithgps for this;  I occasionally have dropouts when the gps 
can't get a good satellite connection, but I also had that happen with the 
garmin I used before the usb port broke loose and converted the thing into 
a very tiny boatanchor.)

-david parsons
 

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[RBW] Re: PDX To Eclipse Ride - Anyone Going?

[Orc]

Yeah, I'm going to head south as well.  From Sellwood, it's between 20-25 
miles to the edge of totality (and once past the Molalla River there are a 
lot of N/S tertiary roads which will HOPEFULLY not be complete parking 
lots) so a stupidly early departure gives plenty of time to at least make 
it to the edge for that 10 seconds of total eclipse.

-david parsons

On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 9:33:15 AM UTC-7, Tim O. (Portland, OR) wrote:
>
> Hey! 
>
> Anyone planning on riding from Portland to the path of totality for the 
> solar eclipse on Monday? I'm​ going to! Even though Portland is 99% in the 
> path, I can't help myself getting caught up in the fervor to be in the path 
> of totality. I had some other plans fall through and I can't take a bunch 
> of time off, so I'm going to ride from Portland at 5am-ish to catch the 
> eclipse in it's full effect. I'm thinking I'll ride to Silverton, which is 
> about 50 miles one way. Predictions about traffic, huge bathroom lines and 
> limited emergency services have been horrible so it may be an 
> eclipse-pocolypse, but it will definitely be an adventure at the very 
> least. 
>
> Let me if youre interested in coordinating! Or maybe you have a wayyy 
> better plan that I can tag along with :) 
>
> Also, there's a cool website to help Oregonians plan a bike trip to the 
> path of totality. Check it out: www.biketotheeclipse.com 
>
> I'll post a picture of my eclipse century set up. 
>
> Cheers, 
> Tim 
> Portland, OR 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ideas for using Busch & Muller tail light without a rack?

[Orc]

Yes, as a matter of fact: 

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cvnP0MTWa-w/WZaLmFev2pI/AN8/eLpRVXfx2JARwgtUZur5mKmBCmWwOkbawCLcBGAs/s1600/Dropout%2Bmount%2Bwith%2Bmetal%2Bbracket.jpg>

(dropout mount with strip metal bracket)

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2iGcTS9LjTA/WZaLyy-iNFI/AOA/DeIUCH7bYnIeBFkAOoKfULN-DAMmeHRhgCLcBGAs/s1600/Attached%2Bto%2Ba%2Bfender%2Bmount.jpg>

(rack mount mount)

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZeK1ASInFHY/WZaL8HHYU8I/AOE/G8MgQBQlZSkBxScvQK4f1c4xpThnaXPAACLcBGAs/s1600/Brazed%2Bon%2Blight%2Bmount%252C%2B%257E5%2522%2Babove%2Bthe%2Bdropout.jpg>

(brazed on mount up a little ways from the dropout)

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RoEhi4FZc2A/WZaMGcKQ2dI/AOI/tnkF_9ifdaEYBgWfF4Qa2C792S9h5LM4gCLcBGAs/s1600/Canti%2Bpost%2Bmount.jpg>


(canti post mount; this one is on the fork, but a canti post mount is a 
canti post mount whether or not it's on the front or on the back of the 
bicycle.)



The first two have the wiring run inside the frame, the last two have the 
wiring elegantly ziptied to the frame  (the third is going to have the 
wiring routed inside the frame after I run it on a couple of longer rides 
this weekend/monday and can strip it down for painting;  the forth is my 
xtracycle so the frame is going to be replaced in the next month or so.)


-david parsons




On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 8:43:24 PM UTC-7, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:
>
> Hi David, these ideas do sound interesting.. except the one that needs a 
> torch.  Do have any pictures of your setup(s)?
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, 16 August 2017 21:51:09 UTC-7, Orc wrote:
>>
>> If your bicycle has rear rack bosses on the seatstays, you can mount it 
>> to that with a wire bracket (I use B headlight brackets for this.)
>>
>> If your bicycle has rack/fender bosses at the dropouts, you can mount it 
>> with a metal bracket  (a section of aluminum flat stock curved 90 degrees 
>> and drilled at both ends.)
>>
>> If you have a torch, a hourglass boss, and don't care about blemishing 
>> the paint, you can braze that boss to the seatstay and then use a wire 
>> bracket.
>>
>> If you have canti or v-brakes, you can use a metal bracket to mount it to 
>> one of the canti posts.
>>
>> (I've done all four of these;  on my handmade frames I put a hourglass 
>> boss about 4" up from the dropout and then use a B headlight bracket to 
>> mount the tail light.)
>>
>> -david parsons
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 16, 2017 at 9:06:15 PM UTC-7, Ash [who works to 
>> bike] wrote:
>>>
>>> I really liked the B dyno tail light and picked it up when I was at 
>>> Riv the last time.  Its been sitting there for 3 months because I do not 
>>> have a rear rack.  Looking for ways mount it on seat post, saddle rail or 
>>> fender (least preferred).
>>>
>>> This didn't seem like an unusual need, but Google didn't provide me 
>>> anything useful. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ideas for using Busch & Muller tail light without a rack?

[Orc]

If your bicycle has rear rack bosses on the seatstays, you can mount it to 
that with a wire bracket (I use B headlight brackets for this.)

If your bicycle has rack/fender bosses at the dropouts, you can mount it 
with a metal bracket  (a section of aluminum flat stock curved 90 degrees 
and drilled at both ends.)

If you have a torch, a hourglass boss, and don't care about blemishing the 
paint, you can braze that boss to the seatstay and then use a wire bracket.

If you have canti or v-brakes, you can use a metal bracket to mount it to 
one of the canti posts.

(I've done all four of these;  on my handmade frames I put a hourglass boss 
about 4" up from the dropout and then use a B headlight bracket to mount 
the tail light.)

-david parsons


On Wednesday, August 16, 2017 at 9:06:15 PM UTC-7, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:
>
> I really liked the B dyno tail light and picked it up when I was at Riv 
> the last time.  Its been sitting there for 3 months because I do not have a 
> rear rack.  Looking for ways mount it on seat post, saddle rail or fender 
> (least preferred).
>
> This didn't seem like an unusual need, but Google didn't provide me 
> anything useful. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cable/Housing Cutter Suggestions

[Orc]

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 7:59:57 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Next question: what do y'all use to crimp cable ends on the ends of 
> cables? 
>

Regular wire cutters do pretty well if you're careful; I have a pair of old 
(and somewhat dull) cutters that I use for zipties, cord, and crimping 
(when I can find them in my bike mess!)   They work really well if I want 
to do a crimp pattern instead of just mashing the cable end enough to cling 
to the cable. 

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[RBW] Re: Cable/Housing Cutter Suggestions

[Orc]

On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 at 10:18:23 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'll repeat my tip 'cause I think it got missed: Cutting the housing (Park 
> cutter) with a scrap piece of cable inside helps keep the end round. A 
> dental pick to finish it is still a good idea.


What I've taken to doing when I cut brake housing short is to make two cuts 
(Park tool) -- first to cut it one loop of housing wire too long (the cut 
end always folds over the middle of the housing here) and then a second cut 
at right angles to cut that folded piece off and leave the center open for 
the brake cable.When I cut shifter cable housing, I'll just cut it off 
to size, then use the cable shaping form in the handle to squash it back 
round before fitting the housing cap.

In both cases I almost never have to chase the center to provide clearance 
for the cable; in the cases where the cable hangs up on the end it's 
because it's been caught on a piece of the plastic liner and pushing the 
cable through clears that obstruction for good  (and I use brifters on all 
of my non-fixies, so I'd notice it if there was something obstructing cable 
movement.)

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: why so many joe's up for sale?

[Orc]

On Sunday, August 6, 2017 at 8:44:53 AM UTC-7, Peter Turskovitch wrote:
>
> Hi Bill, sorry if the question seems ignorant. I don't know a ton about 
> bike geometry. 
>
> Can't you put upright bars on any bike? Lots of bikes take 2" tires. And 
> what effect do the chainstays have?
>

You generally need to shove upright (& mtb) bars further forward than 
similar drop (or mustache) bars to make up for them not curving forward 
before coming back (You /can/ deal with this with a long stem, but it makes 
the bars more flexy and puts your center of gravity closer to the front end 
for improved endoing enjoyment.)  Long chainstays stretch out the wheelbase 
and make the machine less choppy on uneven surfaces  (and unweight the rear 
wheel, but not at the cost of shoving your COG over the front wheel.

I think that long front triangles used to be an MTB thing?  Dunno if anyone 
aside from custom builders & cargobikes did long rear triangles before Riv 
did, though?

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Saluki Links

[Orc]

The machines in the TdF are beaten to death by racers, so this isn't a 
particularly good comparison?

-david parsons

On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 10:52:16 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> "Lifetime model" is "bike that will outlast you." Which is definitely true 
> of Rivendells, and not at all true of the stuff ridden in the Tour de 
> France this year. 

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[RBW] Re: Dyno hub wiring

[Orc]

I do.  Either a port in the DT in the vicinity of the HT or a port in the 
steertube (with 3-4 loose wire wraps around the steertube before heading 
off down the DT.)   When I drill the DT, I always braze a grommet into the 
hole to reinforce it, though that does mess up the paint in the area.

-david parsons

On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 9:54:04 AM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> Have any of you drilled holes to run your wire Internally? I'm having it 
> installed on my Sam. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa question

[Orc]

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 2:58:48 PM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> My brother in law just received his beautiful new Appaloosa and he really 
> loves it. He will make bar and stem changes possibly. I just wondered what 
> are the little nuts/screws are on top of the fork crown? Maybe three people 
> in Norman Ok. now with Rivendell's and I love my Sam.

 
They're for a front rack (like this one:

)


(A much better attachment than a single crown stay;  less wiggle, plus the 
two mountpoints give some additional security against the rack flopping 
forwards and into the tire.)


-david parsons





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Re: [RBW] Movie "Brevet" on Vimeo

[Orc]

The occasional stupid mechanical failure is just another thing, just like 
watching the clock, but being able to head out from my front door, go 
across the Cascades, loop through a bunch of covered bridges, then come 
ghosting back into Portland via country roads in the middle of the night 
250 miles later is just a really pleasant way to spend 20 hours or so on 
the road.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 4:44:32 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Thats crazy.  I also think that randonneuring is a form of extreme 
> activity in which people can take a cool thing as riding a bicycle for long 
> distance and going way too far.
>
> On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 7:20 PM, Orc <grr.g...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 3:40:17 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>>
>>> Dude was riding the hardest gear for the last 100km because his cables 
>>> failed, a 50 and a 12.  He said it was very hard but very nice. 
>>>
>>
>>  Was he riding through?   If so, I could see how pushing a 5:1 would 
>> sort of mix together with the other hallucinations at that point.
>>
>>
>>  -david parsons
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> "TC" (what is your name?): When I ordered my second custom (stripped 
>>>> gofast fixie) from Riv, 18 years ago, I shyly told Grant, "For me, 30 
>>>> miles 
>>>> is a long ride." He replied, "It *is* a long ride!" So I felt 
>>>> validated.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the link.
>>>>
>>>> Patrick Moore, who rides fixed on the road, which multiplies his 
>>>> effective mileage by 5, in ABQ, NM
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 4:14 PM, tc <tdc...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Some likely already know of the movie "Brevet 
>>>>> <https://vimeo.com/ondemand/brevet>" on Vimeo, about randonneuring, 
>>>>> specifically the Paris - Brest - Paris (PBP) cycling marathon done every 
>>>>> 4 
>>>>> years.  Heck, some of you have probably done it.  English or French 
>>>>> subtitle versions available.  My longest rides are 30 miles or less ... 
>>>>> which is laughable in comparison to 1230KM journey depicted in this 
>>>>> movie.  
>>>>> Maybe one day I'll enter a populaire and see how far that will take me.  
>>>>> Anyway, if you haven't watched it, it's a great movie that focuses on 3 
>>>>> of 
>>>>> the 5K or so people that entered a recent PBP, one of which was 68!
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>>> Other professional writing services.
>>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>>> *
>>>> ***
>>>> *Interested in trading resume, LinkedIn, and other writing work for 
>>>> professional (professional) help with marketing and growing my resumes, 
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Movie "Brevet" on Vimeo

[Orc]

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 3:40:17 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Dude was riding the hardest gear for the last 100km because his cables 
> failed, a 50 and a 12.  He said it was very hard but very nice. 
>

 Was he riding through?   If so, I could see how pushing a 5:1 would 
sort of mix together with the other hallucinations at that point.


 -david parsons


>
>
> On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 6:23 PM, Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> "TC" (what is your name?): When I ordered my second custom (stripped 
>> gofast fixie) from Riv, 18 years ago, I shyly told Grant, "For me, 30 miles 
>> is a long ride." He replied, "It *is* a long ride!" So I felt validated.
>>
>> Thanks for the link.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who rides fixed on the road, which multiplies his 
>> effective mileage by 5, in ABQ, NM
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 4:14 PM, tc  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Some likely already know of the movie "Brevet 
>>> " on Vimeo, about randonneuring, 
>>> specifically the Paris - Brest - Paris (PBP) cycling marathon done every 4 
>>> years.  Heck, some of you have probably done it.  English or French 
>>> subtitle versions available.  My longest rides are 30 miles or less ... 
>>> which is laughable in comparison to 1230KM journey depicted in this movie.  
>>> Maybe one day I'll enter a populaire and see how far that will take me.  
>>> Anyway, if you haven't watched it, it's a great movie that focuses on 3 of 
>>> the 5K or so people that entered a recent PBP, one of which was 68!
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>>> .
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>> *
>> ***
>> *Interested in trading resume, LinkedIn, and other writing work for 
>> professional (professional) help with marketing and growing my resumes, 
>> etc. business. Respondents should have considerable experience in helping 
>> small, online businesses grow. Please contact me at 
>> patric...@resumespecialties.com . Thanks.*
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 2017 latest dynamo/lights that are best in the world?

[Orc]

Sure, why not?

If you're fast enough so that the insignificant power losses for a non-SON 
hub are significant, then you want something that shovels a lot of light a 
long ways forward, and an IQ-X (or maybe a Luxos) is gonna be the way you 
want to go.

-david parsons

On Saturday, July 22, 2017 at 12:35:08 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> So SP or SON hub with  IQX or edelux II is still considered  the 
> latest/"best" technology?
>

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Re: [RBW] 2017 latest dynamo/lights that are best in the world?

[Orc]

The big problem with the magniclight is that the lamp is integrated with 
the generator so you're stuck with the crappy lamp unless you're willing to 
hand-modify the thing.

I suspect you could drive an IQ-X off one of those things (I regularly run 
an IQ-X + taillight off a Shimano 1n70) though it might take longer to 
charge the standlight circuit and get ignition.

-david parsons

On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 11:07:57 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Lum:
>
> Regarding your question about alternative lighting systems—I’ve been using 
> Magnic Lights for several years now, both their first and second 
> generations (https://www.magniclight.com/en/) The lights stay on the bike 
> and serve as daytime running lights. I know they use some of my effort to 
> generate light, but I can honestly say that you can’t feel any drag. None.
>
> The lights work well, and the second generation works much better than the 
> first. I’ve used them successfully for nighttime riding, always with a 
> helmet-mounted headlight. If you need super-bright lights they are probably 
> not the best choice, but out in the country and away from streetlights they 
> are plenty bright for me. YMMV
>
> The taillights (and especially the second generation) are very bright. The 
> newer model also adds several modes (flashing vs steady, etc.) and acts as 
> a brake light, blinking when you slow down.
>
> I have had zero problems with mine.
>
> The least desirable part of the system for me is the way the front lights 
> mount. Because they have to be close to the rim, they don’t clear wide 
> tires (wider than about 28C) very easily. Magnic Light’s nicest mount runs 
> close to the wheel and won’t work with tires wider than 28C. 
>
> Contact me offline if you’re interested in more info. You can also use 
> Google to find a number of online reviews.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On Jul 21, 2017, at 10:50 AM, lum gim fong  > wrote:
>
> *I am thinking of buying a new dyno  wheel and getting another headlight 
> and was wondering if anyone knows what the best dyno hubs and lights 
> currently are.*
>
> By best, I mean:
>
> 1. Least drag
> 2. More than 90 lux with smoothest, widest, uniform near and far field of 
> light. No hot spots, or multiple fields.
> 3. furthest/widest beam cast. Has anyone thought to put lenses in the side 
> for cornering light?
> 4. protected from elements well. Like glass lens, and water compensating 
> atmospheric pressure thingy like SONdelux has in their hubs to keep 
> moisture out.
> 5. Height cutoff so as not to blind oncoming traffic.
>
>
> Last I heard, seemed like people were saying that:
>
> *Hubs:*
>
> SON28 or delux widebody and Shutter Precision PV-8 are best hubs, 
> depending on your charging needs. It is contested who has the least drag. 
> Depends on who is talking, who's chart you are looking at. SON has that 
> water pressure protection thingy in the hub so that is better protection 
> from elements than the SP's have, unless they have something newer that now 
> has this technology.
>
> *Lights:*
>
> B IQX, can hang upright or hang upside down easily. 
> Smoothest/furthest/widest/uniformest/brightest light beam.
> edeluxII  second place?
>
> *2. I was also wondering if there is a new dragless, battery-less, 
> technology for lighting that antiquates dyno lighting/hubs at this point 
> altogether. Especially something that cannot loosen and fall into spokes.*
>
> *3. Are things still the same in the lighting market, or has something 
> newer that is better for a hub/light bundle come out?*
>
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

[Orc]

On Wednesday, July 19, 2017 at 4:17:31 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> “... annoying brake cables”?  I could not disagree more. I think they’re 
> beautiful!
>

   They aren't a very user-friendly design; those elegant arcs go right 
over the top of a rando bag, which I could imagine would be pretty annoying 
at 2am after the first 700k of a nice weekend ride.


   -david parsons
 

>
> https://instagram.com/p/BWqXDxQgPc8/ 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

[Orc]

With a bit of lurking, it's possible to find old White 'tincan' hubs for 
about the same price as midrange modern Shimano; cheaper if they're sold as 
"for parts" (I picked up a couple of tincans for ~$25/ea and was able to 
rebuild them with another ~$15 in parts.)

If you're looking for old downtube shifters, ping me -- I've a pair from a 
mid-80s Trek that I'll never use and I'd be happy to pass on to you for 
free.

-david parsons

On Wednesday, July 19, 2017 at 2:47:48 PM UTC-7, Lesli Larson wrote:
>
> It's been awhile since I sourced parts for a new bike. I haven't done this 
> since I ordered my custom Riv ages ago.
>
> Use: randonneuring
>
> Question: what's the current wisdom regarding classic long cage 
> derailleurs, front derailleurs, rear hubs (freewheel or cassette), 
> seatposts and shifts?
>
> Have things gotten crazy expensive or is vintage still a viable 
> alternative to new stuff.
>
> I'm sorry I missed out on the Riv Phil hub (what I have on my older road 
> bike). 
>
> I already have Mafac racers, a TA crank, and a set of Campy brake levers 
> in hand.
>
> I'm a female with smallish hands and shortish stature. I'm going to set 
> the bike up as a compact double with either bar-ends or downtube shifters.
>
> Wondering whether folks recommend in the way of classic, duable, stylish, 
> lightweight parts? New or old.
>
>
> Let me know if you have anything for sale that might match my shopping 
> list!
>
> Regards,
>
> Lesli Larson
> Eugene, OR
>

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[RBW] Re: How's your IQ-X light lens holding up.

[Orc]

I've only got a couple of thousand of miles on my IQ-X, so it's not had the 
chance to get any serious wear, but as for plastic lenses I put about 
25,000 miles onto a IQ-Cyo (another plastic-lensed joint) without noticable 
lens wear.The -X has an impressive beam throw, so even with some 
fogging it should be substantially brighter than a Cyo or eDelux.

-david parsons

On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 8:56:09 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Thanks. My edeluxII light has never had the awesome beam pattern and 
> brightness of the Peter White pictures.  So I'm looking for something 
> brighter and I hear this one is brighter.
> I find myself straining to see it at night sometimes with my EII.

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[RBW] Re: Dyno lights/hub

[Orc]

I don't use a Marks rack, but I'd imagine that you could just run the 
wiring up the DS fork leg, across the crown, then forwards on the fork 
crown stay and the underside of the rack to the light mount.  Ziptied into 
place, or just wrapped around the fork leg, stay, and rack rails.

-david parsons


On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 2:01:58 PM UTC-7, Carla Waugh wrote:
>
> Someone sent me a picture of how they used a Marks rack with a basket 
> showing how the wiring was done. I wondered if someone has a picture they 
> could show? 

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[RBW] Request for a safety review

[Orc]

If it was me I'd mount it forward of the fork leg so that (a) debris carried up 
by the wheel won't strike it and (b) if it came loose and toppled into the 
spokes it would be thrown away from the wheel instead of jamming against the 
fork blade.

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Orc]

I know I'm sounding like a parrot here and I'll stfu after this, but Riv 
sells steel bikes and of the approximately 1,000,000 framebuilders in the 
United States (true, most of them are in Portland, but bikeflights is your 
friend) there are bound to be some are capable of and would happily put 
proper disc mounts onto the Riv machine of your choice.   Of all the 
niggling little things that Grant won't do, disc mounts are pretty much the 
easiest to do as an aftermarket change.

-david parsons

On Monday, June 26, 2017 at 10:44:51 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
> Someone else in this thread said why should it be one way or the other. 
>  There are many, many aspects of Riv bikes that I swear by - which is the 
> reason I spend 3x the money (as compared to off-the-shelf choices I had 
> considered) building one.   Introducing discs doesn't make all the other 
> fabulous things go away.  I had looked at one bike (maybe SOMA) that 
> supported both discs and rim brakes.  Perhaps such design adds to the cost 
> and changes certain ride characteristics. Just how today on my Joe I can 
> chose a V-brake or Cantis, it'd be great if there was an option to go with 
> disc if there's a reason.   
>
> I don't have a reason to go with discs. I also think they would noise to 
> the way my bike looks.  However, I can live with those mounts being there 
> on my bike.
>
>
> Question to Jay Connolly:  what's the bigger tire (with fenders) do you 
> think I can have on my Appaloosa if I were to use Avid Single-Digit 7? 
>  Thanks.
>
>
> On Monday, 26 June 2017 06:41:00 UTC-7, Jay Connolly wrote:
>>
>> I used only canti brakes a quite a while. Then I went ro discs. When I 
>> discovered v-brakes, I wondered why I had bothered with discs. For true 
>> MTBs, I think discs are an advantage in mud, and I prefer XT-level 
>> hydraulics, which have been faultless, for me. Most mechanicals are fiddly, 
>> though the best I've found are TRP Spyres, which are less so. Back to 
>> v-brakes: TRP CX9s are the strongest brakes I have used--bar none, 
>> including discs. They don't allow much more than a 35mm tire with fenders, 
>> but they are strong enough to pitch anyone over the bars. On my Appaloosa 
>> I'm running Avid Single-Digit 7s, ands they are more than strong enough for 
>> me--as good or better than any mechanical disc I've used.
>>
>> Having said that, there's this: Riv can't win the battle against industry 
>> "progress" on this issue, unfortunately, because the perception will be 
>> that the bikes are pre-obsolete and the fear will be that replacement parts 
>> will be unavailable. Both will hit sales harder and harder as time marches 
>> forward. I ride with 30-year-olds who have never owned a bike without 
>> discs. As these people age and acquire the earning power to embrace a wider 
>> set of values in their bicycles, they will likely reject the bikes on the 
>> brake issue. I love everything about the company, including their 
>> collective stubbornness, but I would also like to see the business survive 
>> and thrive.
>>
>> Jay
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Orc]

On Monday, June 26, 2017 at 12:16:46 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Jay Connolly prophesied what will happen if Rivendell doesn't make a 
> disc-brake single bike.  
>
> I've prophesied that Rivendell is not going to make a disc-brake single 
> bike.  
>
> *BUT*if they did decide to make a test run of disc brake equipped 
> bikes, what would you have them build? 
>

Disc Appa or Rosco.   The new crown on the Appaloosa fork has a more 
industrial look, so a proper disc mount would not look out of place  (and a 
12mm T-A dropout, in the world where mirror Grant went full disc fashion) 
would not overwhelm the fork blades plus it would open up a whole world of 
650b wheelsets instead of the anemic selection -- not that I'm bitter! -- 
of rim brakeable rims that can be put under them now.

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Orc]

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 5:13:22 PM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> What are people using for a small rack to support a rando bag or basket? 
> I'm wondering if the Nitto M-12 rack would work? Is there something more 
> appropriate?
>

I just braze up a 10x8 rack, which is a perfect size to fit the perimeter 
of a rando bag and apparently is also a good size to have a wire basket 
ziptied to it.   The super-narrow rando-style racks are fine, I guess, but 
rando bags tend to sag on them unless you do some heroic measures like also 
using a decaleur or drilling holes in the bottom and bolting them to the 
rack pjw-style.

-david parsons 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Orc]

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 1:16:58 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> For forks you gotta go back to Rivendell or go custom 
>

   If you want the Riv look, yes, but there are still plenty of third-party 
forks in the 1" steertubeway out there if getting a replacement is 
necessary and you can't afford the time or money for Riv/custom.

   -david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Orc]

You've gotta put a reinforcing rib on the back of the caliper-side fork 
blade;  it's fussy, but it doesn't spoil the look of a riv fork NEARLY as 
much as jackknifing one of the fork blades.

-david parsons

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 12:18:23 PM UTC-7, Peter White wrote:
>
> Oh, no! Put a disc brake onto any Rivendell fork I've ever seen and after 
> the first hard braking you'll have a severely bent left fork blade. Fork 
> blades must be quite a bit stiffer to work with disc brakes.
>
> PJW
>
>
> In my experience, the fiddly bit of hydraulic brakes is the tubing; 
>> otherwise they're about as well behaved as a good pair of rim brakes.  And 
>> you don't pay the Spyre or Hy/rd premium for them (if you care at all about 
>> how single-piston brakes need to shove the disk into the other caliper.)
>>
>> (And there ain't anything about a Riv that keeps anyone from brazing disc 
>> tabs onto it, except the initial frame cost.)
>>
>> -david parsons
>>
>>
>>>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Orc]

In my experience, the fiddly bit of hydraulic brakes is the tubing; 
otherwise they're about as well behaved as a good pair of rim brakes.  And 
you don't pay the Spyre or Hy/rd premium for them (if you care at all about 
how single-piston brakes need to shove the disk into the other caliper.)

(And there ain't anything about a Riv that keeps anyone from brazing disc 
tabs onto it, except the initial frame cost.)

-david parsons



On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> This is good to know. If hydraulics are just a fiddly as, or even more 
> fiddly (depending on the make and model) than good mechanical discs, then I 
> have no need for them. I suppose I'd want them for riding really steep 
> technical stuff, but for my sort of riding, any good cable operated brake, 
> disc or rim, is easily adequate.
>
> So, I'll scratch hydraulics. Now, to learn if the 2-sided actuated 
> mechanicals are easier to set up for less rub and more power than single 
> action ones like the BB7. Once again, I am very happy with my BB7s, so 
> seeking out Spyres or whatever they are would be like dropping Julia 
> Roberts to pursue Cindy Crawford (I'm out of date, I know it, but these are 
> the only pretty faces I can think of at the moment). But if Spyres (or 
> whatever) allow bigger pad distances with the same or better power, then 
> they might be worth buying at some point. Me, I haven't found adjustment 
> for pad wear a matter needing attention, with the BB7s I've used.
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 10:31 AM, Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks Jeremy
>>
>> This is the reason that I suspect the OP Patrick Moore would dislike 
>> hydraulic brakes.  Or, more accurately, why his reaction to hydraulic brake 
>> X would be binary.  Either it will self-adjust to perfect, and he's love 
>> them, or they would self-adjust to imperfect, and he'd hate the inability 
>> to do much about it.  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 8:04:55 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Bill--no that's right, hydraulic calipers don't really give you any 
>>> adjustment other than alignment.  I was noting that some hydraulics seem to 
>>> run with their pads a bit further from the rotor than others, and that as 
>>> with mechanical rim brakes, this seems to be related to the leverage 
>>> characteristics of the braking system.  
>>>
>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
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[RBW] Re: So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Orc]

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 2:10:24 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
 

> So why keep beating this poor old dead horse?  I think we can all agree: 
> There are those who would like Rivendell to make a bike with discs. 2.Right 
> now, Rivendell does not make disc bikes, and has not announced plans to do 
> so. 3. Ergo, technically, disc bike discussions are off topic on this list. 
>

It's unfortunate that Riv frames are pretty expensive, because it would not 
be all that difficult to modify one to take disc brakes.   The fork would 
be the stumbling point, because even though Riv forks are pretty stout 
you'd still need to braze/weld a rib along the back of the caliper blade 
and that takes it from an easy afternoon project to a couple of days of 
cutting & fitting so that the rib will actually work and not end up peeling 
loose to be shortly followed by the blade jackknifing over the remains.

-david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: Roadini at RBW

[Orc]

So you could afford the plastic Riv?

-david parsons

On Saturday, June 17, 2017 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, Austin B wrote:
>
> If that Calfee were actually a carbon fiber Riv proto, I'd have to sell my 
> Sam out of principle.
>

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[RBW] Re: what kind of bike is it?

[Orc]

Call it a hybrid; that's a more familiar term than the Riv 'all-arounder' 
(or the PNW "randonneuse", which is similar but not really to the french 
originals.)

-david parsons

On Friday, June 16, 2017 at 3:56:32 PM UTC-7, ericf3 wrote:
>
> greetings
>
> I picked up my own first Riv (Bombadil F) today (more about that in 
> coming days) and then ended up at lunch with some pals who are casual 
> cyclists.  I told them it was New Bike Day, and they were keen to share my 
> excitement..  One asked, what kind of bike is it?  I was torn -- said it 
> was kind of like a mountain bike.  Next question: Will I take it up the 
> back of Grouse Mountain (a nice dirt road route) and I had to say, maybe 
> but I am putting road (Compass 44s) tires on it.  They seemed confused.  
> What is the deal with this MTB type thing that rides on smooth stuff?
>
> Is there a simple explanation that  I could use and make people go "a-ha, 
> I understand about your bicycle! " 
>
> Just curious, since once it's built up they will see it (and are close to 
> my proportions so can ride it for themselves).
>
> How to describe it?
>
> thanks
>
> EricF
> Vancouver
>

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[RBW] Re: How does Compass tire compare with Pari Moto?

[Orc]

On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 2:24:14 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
>  For anyone who feels the difference, it's Compass or tubular. 
>

You should write ad copy for Compass; you pack a lot of convincing praise 
into a short paragraph without sounding like the Acme Blurb-o-matic.


(disclaimer:  I disagree with your claim, having ridden (good) tubulars and 
abandoning them in favor of the Resist Nomad 28, which is the platonic 
ideal of a clincher tire.  But even though you're Wrong(tm), you're 
eloquently so.)

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Atlantis shifter cable routing (Bottom Bracket guide?)

[Orc]

(a) not the same kind of wire,
(b) how frequently do you shift?

-david parsons

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 6:57:49 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> You guys don't use wires to cut metal? That's how I cut my steerer to 
> size..Also if I need to trim handlebar width
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv Atlantis shifter cable routing (Bottom Bracket guide?)

[Orc]

On Thursday, June 8, 2017 at 4:21:52 PM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> yeah I'll just let the wire cut into the frame. it's just a bike


How frequently do you shift?   You might be waiting quite a long time for a 
shifter cable to notch the BB.


-david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: questions about quickbeam/simple one gearing

[Orc]

On Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 7:50:07 AM UTC-7, alan lavine wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> The simple one for sale got me to thinking about doing something similar 
> with a fixie frame I made at United Bicycle Institute a few years ago.
> IIRC you can put 2 closely spaced chainrings up front.  Then in the rear 
> with flip flop hub, you can use a double freewheel on one side and even a 
> double fixed cog on the other.  Is this right?  How close do the chainrings 
> and cogs need to be to avoid having to change the chain length?  Can you 
> use a "crossover" gear, i.e. one chainring with either of the cogs in the 
> rear (FW or fixed), or do they need to be in the same plane?  Will it work 
> with a standard track dropout or was there something unique on the simple 
> one/quickbeam?
>
> Can someone give me examples of the gearing they use?  What double crank 
> works or do I have to make a custom one?  My frame was originally built 
> with a 120 rear but I respaced it to 126...will that work?  Are flip flop 
> wheels available with quick release, and is it OK for fixed gear riding? 
>  I'm wondering how often I would change the gears if I needed a wrench for 
> the axle nut.
>
> Lots of questions, sorry, but I'm thinking it would make an interesting 
> project.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Alan 
> NYC
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The BLAHG, eRivs?

[Orc]

What are you trying to stop with them?   I've got 1.5 hydraulic brakes 
sitting in my bike mess at home (I have a plan to put a disc brake onto a 
Bob Yak trailer) and I spent some time with them on a regular bike but 
didn't really see any difference between them and the mechanical discs I 
put onto the thing when I decided that disc brakes were okay to use on it.

-david parsons

On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 2:49:54 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> "And I hear that hydraulic disc brakes are even more powerful and that 
> they modulate even better than the best mechanicals."
>
> If you ever want to get brake-spoiled, try hydraulics. Power and 
> modulation with light hand pressure out the kazoo; they make even the 
> mechanical discs on my folder feel like stopping and old Chevy with drum 
> brakes. I purposely avoided mentioning hydros in my earlier comment because 
> this thread already has me promoting electric motors and mechanical discs 
> for Rivendells. I gotta draw the line somewhere! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The BLAHG, eRivs?

[Orc]

I've potholed a few rims, and the main damage to them is the brake track.   
You /can/ get the bend out  (one of my potholed rims is a 650b ztr355, 
which can't be replaced for love or money now that Stans has drunk deep 
from the disc brake well, so you can be assured that I fixed that wagon and 
still have the wheelset around.   Sadly, the bead is damaged enough so that 
I don't dare run Confreries tubeless on it anymore) but if you don't it's 
really not very good for rim braking anymore.   With disc brakes, just 
shrug and keep riding.

And about those brake pads...   I still not-so-fondly recall the set of new 
V-O squeal-less pads I took out on a paved-road 200k one February and 
returned with the front pads worn down to the metal carrier. My single 
disc braked machine, on the other hand, has had BB5s on it for ~3k miles 
now and is still using the original pads in the rear (I swapped the front 
pads when they started getting thin after ~2k miles, but the rear pads keep 
telling me that I was being overly pessimistic about that) which is the 
same milage ballpark as all of the rim brake pads I've used in the 50k 
miles I've ridden over the past few years.

Disc brakes aren't that new anymore, either, and a lot of the really dumb 
designs have already been caught and weeded out.There's not much reason 
for Riv to switch over to them ($300 for a rim swap every now and then is 
not much compared to the cost of a fully kitted-out machine) unless Grant 
decides to start designing & selling full-carbon racing MTBs.

-david parsons




On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 12:24:50 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>   If I am going to compare costs between this and that, it has to be the 
> total cost of ownership.  So sure, rims and pads may wear down and require 
> replacement, but a wheel of disc brakes is not immune to the same and/or 
> it's own issues. They are still relatively new so long term costs are often 
> overlooked and/or incalculable.  Any rim can still crack or fail for 
> infinite reasons. Disc brake pad lifespan, is it as good as rim pads ? 
> Compare the costs of replacing each type of pads also. Also the initial 
> cost of the disc brake system itself is factored. And of course, "stuff 
> happens" that no one can predict, and so can make such comparisons 
> unreliable at best.  So I say just ride what is ridden and there is not 
> need to justify it to anyone. 
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 2:40:58 PM UTC-4, Orc wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 9:50:41 AM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm probably becoming a predictable bore on disc brakes, but still and 
>>> for the record, except for the few conditions where it's an obvious benefit 
>>> to get the brake away from the tire (mudglop and grit), the rim IS a disc, 
>>> and being bigger in diameter, it's more powerful and more effective. Yes, 
>>> it can become a wobbly braking surface if you trash your rim, 
>>>
>>
>> I think that's the actual selling point for disc brakes;  it's cheaper to 
>> replace a rotor than it is to replace a rim.   (Not so much so in 700c, but 
>> in boutique sizes like 650b rims are becoming eye-poppingly expensive and 
>> if you venture away from the Velocity offerings there's not certainty that 
>> you'll be able to replace them when they wear down.)
>>
>> -david parsons
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The BLAHG, eRivs?

[Orc]

On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 9:50:41 AM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> I'm probably becoming a predictable bore on disc brakes, but still and for 
> the record, except for the few conditions where it's an obvious benefit to 
> get the brake away from the tire (mudglop and grit), the rim IS a disc, and 
> being bigger in diameter, it's more powerful and more effective. Yes, it 
> can become a wobbly braking surface if you trash your rim, 
>

I think that's the actual selling point for disc brakes;  it's cheaper to 
replace a rotor than it is to replace a rim.   (Not so much so in 700c, but 
in boutique sizes like 650b rims are becoming eye-poppingly expensive and 
if you venture away from the Velocity offerings there's not certainty that 
you'll be able to replace them when they wear down.)

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: OT: June 2 blahg

[Orc]

cheapish.   Film is nice, but it's a constant money drain if you use it a 
lot.   And if you use pentasaurs (with the notable exception of the auto 
110) those cheap lenses will live just as happily on a digital back as on a 
film one.  It doesn't help that collectors have started to sweep up old 
film cameras either (it wasn't too many years ago that an old Leica screw 
mount could be found for a few hundred dollars.  Now?  Sigh, it's cheaper 
to buy an r-d1 and you won't have to keep paying to buy & develop film :-( )

-david "auto 110 + ist DS + one throwaway CBC after another" parsons


On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 8:21:39 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
> Among other things on today's Blahg, Grant mentions that John at Rivelo is 
> getting a patch made that reads "Pedal Bikes, Shoot Film", to be available 
> soon:
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/june-2-pix-and-caps
>
> Also lots about film cameras, if that's your thing.  When I has in HS, way 
> back when, we had a "lab" at home for developing & printing B  Was not 
> complicated or much trouble to pick up after use.  With the prices GP 
> mentions for cameras, lenses, etc., old film processing equipment may be 
> similarly cheap.  I still have B prints I made too many decades ago.
>
> dougP
>

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Re: [RBW] FS / FT Berthoud, Noodle Cockpit, Velocity 650b Cliffhanger wheelset, and and and

[Orc]

The photo makes it look like a bog-standard Aspin?  The rails, at least in 
that picture, don't look like they're the titanium ones. It's pretty 
impressively worn in, too;  someone put a lot of miles onto that puppy.

-david parsons

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 2:14:21 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 06/01/2017 04:43 PM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote: 
> > 
> > Berthoud Saddle: $100 - trade for Cambium? 
> > I actually received this in a trade for a Cambium on the list. It's 
> > not working for me though and want to go back to the Cambium. I 
> > believe this is the "cork" pattern. Broken in, not broken. A couple 
> > scuffs from PO. 
>
> There are many models of Berthoud saddles, with steel and titanium 
> rails, and I believe most are available with the cork pattern.  Can you 
> be a bit more specific about which saddle this is? 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

On Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 11:32:26 AM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
>  Anyone of you multi wheelset advocates have a good system for going from 
> slick/fender/dyno light to knobby
>

All of my wheelsets have dynohubs, so in my case it's just a matter of 
popping one wheelset out and dropping another in.   But my tires range from 
25-38, so it's just a matter of setting up the fenders to clear the largest 
tires and not minding the gap when I stuff a tiny-tired wheelset under the 
bike.

-david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

Then keep the hunq and purge everything else. What's the BB drop on the 
thing?

-david parsons

On Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 10:43:42 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> that ceiling thing actually looks kinda promising. there is a subtext of 
> unspoken wife expectation that im either feeling or imagining, and 
> actually, i think Leah's bike suggestion would do a lot to assuage them. 
>
> i do agree that the sam would probably be a totally adequate 1 bike. The 
> problem is that i like the hunq much better. Now my weird mind is actually 
> thinking about a 56cm 650b hunq. i need to stop. 
>

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 2:53:20 PM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Orc,
>
> Do you have any pictures of the tandem style cabling?  I would be curious 
> how that works to easily swap handle bars.
>

No pictures, but S sells them @ http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 11:28:18 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Visually, but certainly not in serviceability! Your 650B wheels will leave 
> your bb 3/4" closer to the floor. Much more to the point would be 650B X 
> 42s which are about the same diameter of 700C X 25s.
>

Yes.   So don't try to shred the gnar with the 25s;  for that, pop in 
your wheelset with 2" tires.
 

> Also, a bike designed to handle well with 42 or 50 mm tires won't handle 
> as well with 25s, at least that is my experience with roadified mountain 
> bikes that handle well with 50s and lousily with 25s.
>

How do you mean lousily?   The only difference I've noticed with larger 
(fsvo "larger" -- my idea of fat tires are the 38mm Pari-Motos on my sweet 
fixie and mountainhack) tires are that they spin up slower and don't get 
bounced around as much on loose gravel.  But at speed on pavement I'd find 
it hard to pick any handling differences that don't point back at the 
length of the front triangle instead of the shape of the contact patches.

   -david parsons


>
> On Tue, May 30, 2017 at 12:22 PM, Orc <grr.g...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
>>  (A machine with 650x25b tires is visually indistinguishable from a 
>> 700x25c machine until you either get up close or have it alongside the 700c 
>> machine.)  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

If space is more important than money, strip the Hunq down to the frame and 
tuck it into the corner (or hang it in the closet, or on a wall) for later 
when you've got more time, space, and mental energy) and then look at the 
other 3 bicycles for weeding down to one.

The 650b do-it-all is not a completely ridiculous idea.  A comfy frame with 
room for 2" tires -- as long as it doesn't have an insanely low bottom 
bracket -- will also let you put narrow tires onto the thing and play 
discount roadie.(A machine with 650x25b tires is visually 
indistinguishable from a 700x25c machine until you either get up close or 
have it alongside the 700c machine.)   If you used tandem-style 
quick-disconnects for your brake cables (and shifter cables if you're using 
bar-end shiftters) you could even have a mustache (or flat) bar, a set of 
cruiser bars, or even drop bars that you could flip in and out with almost 
as little effort as it would take to pop one wheelset and put in another.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 10:45:25 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> All good advice. While i had considered a set of different tires, a 
> totally different wheelset+tires seems like it would do more to access the 
> bike's versatility in a convenient way. and then i'd have an excuse to 
> experiment with compass tires... interesting. 
>>
>>
> In reality, the sam may be better suited to my actual needs, but i love 
> the hunq more, and i find that touring with a bike leaves me deeply 
> sentimental about our relationship and time together, even if it isnt the 
> most practical in non-touring times. Selling it, i fear, would be almost 
> immediately regrettable. 
>
> ill try to answer some of the questions.
> -my roady friends aren't super roady, but a few have invested in nice 
> carbon or titanium bikes. when we ride, it isnt for speed or time, but i 
> have felt like im slowing them down. 
> -i also have a 1985 trek 870, and a miyata mixte also a 91 stumpjumper 
> frame. none of them are essential or get ridden very much.
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Orc]

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 8:14:18 AM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>
>  The problems with converting [to 650b] is it would require moving the 
> canti posts and a repaint and it lowers your bottom bracket (pedal strike).
>

Yes and no.  I converted my Trek 1000 to 650b a few years ago and have 
ridden it almost exclusively (I there was a week after a sidewall tear when 
I had to use a H*tr* until the next shipment of Confreries arrived from 
xxcycle) with 32 & 25mm tires -- maybe 5000 miles? -- and I think I've 
maybe had two pedal strikes.If the plan is to embrace your inner 
fatbike, what the ERD took away will be given back by the tire diameter.

And moving the canti posts is just a hour or so with hacksaw, file, torch, 
and a new pair of posts because hacksawing the old posts off destroys them 
(or you could pay a framebuilder to stick the new posts on instead.)

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: 650b, fenders and a Bob Yak

[Orc]

The lowriders are too wide?   Can you spacer them out further (I don't know 
if this is possible;  the net of a billion lies has pictures showing rear 
campee racks with removable lowriders, but I'm not sure if that's the only 
type of campee or not) and sneak the fork between the lowriders and the 
rear triangle?

-david parsons

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 10:18:35 AM UTC-7, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> Said differently, the Campee seems to be too wide to allow the Bob fork to 
> reach the QR.

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[RBW] Re: 650b, fenders and a Bob Yak

[Orc]

I'm stumped, sorry :-(

Maybe a picture would help?

-david parsons

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 8:30:04 AM UTC-7, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> The fork of the Yak won't clear the frame of the Campee.

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[RBW] Re: 650b, fenders and a Bob Yak

[Orc]

Is the yak fouling on the bolt that mounts the Campee to the dropout, or 
are you having trouble with it + the lowriders?

-david parsons

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 5:09:55 AM UTC-7, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> It fits but I had to remove my rear rack (Nitto Campee) because the Yak 
> fork couldn't clear it.  Any suggestions for a work a round?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Orc]

On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 at 8:50:20 AM UTC-7, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
>  Perhaps he should have started an IRA years ago like many folks must do?
>

There was an article about BG a few years back in Adventure Cycling(I 
think?  A pdf was posted somewhere -- not here -- in the middle of a "beat 
up on Bruce Gordon" fest) where he estimated that his average yearly income 
over the 40 years or so he'd been framebuilding was about $25k/year.   
Thats, uh, not the sort of income that gives you a bountiful retirement 
egg. 

In the worst case he'll have social security (so we'll all be funding his 
retirement, thank goodness) and a tiny revenue stream from selling RnR 
tires, but that's edging close to catfood territory.

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: 650b, fenders and a Bob Yak

[Orc]

The older bob yak (16" wheel) clears a Pari-Moto + fender with enough 
clearance that I've never bothered to measure.  The modern yak says 360mm 
clearance on the fork, which should be enough for up to a 50mm tire + 
fender, but you should measure your machine nevertheless.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 6:02:19 PM UTC-7, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> Will the standard size Bob Yak trailer fit a 650b Homer with fenders or do 
> I need the bigger Yak 28?  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Orc]

Does anyone make a /good/ living framebuilding, or is it just that some 
framebuilders can do a good job of pretending that they're living lives of 
opulent excess while actually bailing like mad to keep ahead of the 
constant inflow of one expense after another?

Shoot, Riv itself seems like a much bigger and more stable business than 
BG, but every now and then Grant still posts a "ohmygodwe'redrowninghere" 
article on the Riv weblog.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 12:04:24 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Vincent van Gogh committed suicide after years of mental illness and 
> poverty (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_van_Gogh).
>
> Bruce has made (I would hope) a good living producing bikes for other 
> people. He owns some now that he can sell, but he might have an inflated 
> idea of their value. I hope he was setting aside something over the years 
> in a 401k to cover his retirement.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On May 23, 2017, at 11:44 AM, Orc <grr.g...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
> It would be nicer if they were donated, yes, but I can imagine why BG 
> would be somewhat annoyed after coming to the realization that spending 
> most of his life as a (really good) framebuilder and $2.50 is worth a cup 
> of drip coffee at Starbucks.
>
> -david parsons
>
> On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 11:21:45 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> If he can’t sell the bikes, he should consider donating them. There are 
>> probably a few tall people out there in need of transportation who could 
>> use a serviceable bicycle. Much better than having them scrapped.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>>
>> On May 23, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Evan Baird <vanst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> We've got a group of people together to discuss the best framework to 
>> use. If you have experience setting up a nonprofit, coop or b corp I 
>> encourage you to send me your email and I'll add you to the group. If you 
>> think Bruce is messing around maybe you're right, or maybe you don't 
>> actually know him very well. The way he put it to me is he can't ride them, 
>> so if nobody wants them badly enough to pay up then fuck it. I honestly 
>> don't care what happens as long as Bruce gets what he deserves, which is 
>> respect, dignity and a comfortable retirement. If you have 250,000 I would 
>> say it's a bargain.
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 9:37:16 AM UTC-7, Julian Westerhout wrote:
>>>
>>> My response to this on the Boblist (for those who don't follow both): 
>>>
>>> Evan, 
>>>
>>> Do you have an actual business plan beyond hoping others give you enough 
>>> $ to buy his bikes? Aside from his cool bike collection and the relatively 
>>> minimal value of his tools, the value of the business IS Bruce Gordon. He 
>>> has been struggling for the past few years -- what makes you think that 
>>> once he is gone folks will flock to learn how to build bikes from a 
>>> "museum" with his name on it but with no other connection? Who are your 
>>> master builder/instructors? How many people do you imagine would pay to see 
>>> his collection? How much would it cost you to keep the doors open? 
>>>
>>> Your claim that he is threatening to recycle all of his collection 
>>> instead of sell it piece by piece is indicative of the problem. That's 
>>> irrational -- if he really was so low energy, he could engage someone else 
>>> to sell it for him. If he cannot even manage that what sort of 
>>> support/guidance will he provide as you attempt to succeed at pushing a 
>>> BG-less BG Cycles? 
>>>
>>> What happens to the $$ you are raising if you are not successful in 
>>> getting the $250,000 you're asking for? You're using GoFundMe, which allows 
>>> withdrawals of any and all monies collected, regardless of success of 
>>> drive. If you don't raise the full amount, will you and Norma keep the 
>>> funds raised? Refund your donors? Donate the funds to BG? Are you using an 
>>> escrow service? 
>>>
>>> As you plan on being a museum/educational facility, have you looked into 
>>> the laws associated with doing so? Will you be a 501(C)3? How will you be 
>>> structured? You're making a big ask -- perhaps you'd like to share more on 
>>> your plans and what you've developed so far. 
>>>
>>> Julian Westerhout
>>> Bloomington, Il
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 22, 2017 at 10:40:21 PM UTC-5,

Re: [RBW] Re: Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Orc]

It would be nicer if they were donated, yes, but I can imagine why BG would 
be somewhat annoyed after coming to the realization that spending most of 
his life as a (really good) framebuilder and $2.50 is worth a cup of drip 
coffee at Starbucks.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 11:21:45 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> If he can’t sell the bikes, he should consider donating them. There are 
> probably a few tall people out there in need of transportation who could 
> use a serviceable bicycle. Much better than having them scrapped.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On May 23, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Evan Baird  
> wrote:
>
> We've got a group of people together to discuss the best framework to use. 
> If you have experience setting up a nonprofit, coop or b corp I encourage 
> you to send me your email and I'll add you to the group. If you think Bruce 
> is messing around maybe you're right, or maybe you don't actually know him 
> very well. The way he put it to me is he can't ride them, so if nobody 
> wants them badly enough to pay up then fuck it. I honestly don't care what 
> happens as long as Bruce gets what he deserves, which is respect, dignity 
> and a comfortable retirement. If you have 250,000 I would say it's a 
> bargain.
>
> On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 9:37:16 AM UTC-7, Julian Westerhout wrote:
>>
>> My response to this on the Boblist (for those who don't follow both): 
>>
>> Evan, 
>>
>> Do you have an actual business plan beyond hoping others give you enough 
>> $ to buy his bikes? Aside from his cool bike collection and the relatively 
>> minimal value of his tools, the value of the business IS Bruce Gordon. He 
>> has been struggling for the past few years -- what makes you think that 
>> once he is gone folks will flock to learn how to build bikes from a 
>> "museum" with his name on it but with no other connection? Who are your 
>> master builder/instructors? How many people do you imagine would pay to see 
>> his collection? How much would it cost you to keep the doors open? 
>>
>> Your claim that he is threatening to recycle all of his collection 
>> instead of sell it piece by piece is indicative of the problem. That's 
>> irrational -- if he really was so low energy, he could engage someone else 
>> to sell it for him. If he cannot even manage that what sort of 
>> support/guidance will he provide as you attempt to succeed at pushing a 
>> BG-less BG Cycles? 
>>
>> What happens to the $$ you are raising if you are not successful in 
>> getting the $250,000 you're asking for? You're using GoFundMe, which allows 
>> withdrawals of any and all monies collected, regardless of success of 
>> drive. If you don't raise the full amount, will you and Norma keep the 
>> funds raised? Refund your donors? Donate the funds to BG? Are you using an 
>> escrow service? 
>>
>> As you plan on being a museum/educational facility, have you looked into 
>> the laws associated with doing so? Will you be a 501(C)3? How will you be 
>> structured? You're making a big ask -- perhaps you'd like to share more on 
>> your plans and what you've developed so far. 
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, Il
>>
>> On Monday, May 22, 2017 at 10:40:21 PM UTC-5, Evan Baird wrote:
>>>
>>> Cross Post from BOB
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Orc]

More hassle than throwing them into a dumpster.   I suspect that what BG 
wants is for one of the more-money-than-god-less-sense-than-a-cat .com 
billionaires that infest the bay area to throw down some pocket change, 
then show up with a moving truck and get the things out of his hair.   And 
they won't do that unless they think that it's a rare & valuable collection 
that they're getting at a steal from an eccentric genius.   Which it is. 
 And he is.  And maybe it's a steal.   It's not much more than a Tesla, and 
I'd say they've got more value for money than it would have.


-david parsons


On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 8:28:32 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> He’s going to take a potentially valuable bicycle collection to the 
> recycler for scrap? That strikes me as either monumentally stupid or 
> something done in a fit of pique. What’s wrong with selling them?
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On May 22, 2017, at 8:40 PM, Evan Baird  
> wrote:
>
> Cross Post from BOB
>
> Hey Everybody. I spoke with Bruce Gordon again this afternoon and he still 
> hasn't found a buyer for his shop. My partner Norma and I decided that we 
> want to try to raise the money to turn BG Cycles into a frame building 
> school and bike touring museum and open it to the public. I think what 
> Bruce is asking is an insanely low amount of one of the most respected 
> names in custom bicycles and I think that he deserves a comfortable 
> retirement after everything he's done for the American Bike Industry. If 
> you can't support us directly please help us spread the word about our 
> crowdfunding campaign. We have about a month to pull this off, after which 
> Bruce told me he's just going to take his bicycle collection to the 
> recyclers and scrap the lot. I really believe he intends to do that, and I 
> would break my heart to see such beautiful and historical bikes get 
> destroyed.
>
>
> https://www.gofundme.com/save-bruce-gordon-cycles
>
>
> 
>
>
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[RBW] Re: The BLAHG, eRivs?

[Orc]

Yes, that's what mopeds became (and it's what may be the future of this 
generation; there are already some /very/ scooter-looking electric mopeds 
out there that I occasionally see on the bike paths/locked up to bike racks 
in Portland.  The only thing keeping the electric mopeds from becoming 
scooters is that the energy density of batteries sucks dead bunnies through 
a straw and that as the batteries age the drivers will more and more likely 
need to pedal their way out of trouble.) The net of a billion lies 
(wikipedia) actually has a moderately honest recounting of the origin of 
the things, including some interesting photos.

-david parsons

On Thursday, May 18, 2017 at 12:51:34 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Mopeds were slow motorcycles you could only ride by using the throttle. 
> The pedals only existed to qualify it as non-licensed back in the day, you 
> couldn't actually use it as a bicycle. So the comparison, while pithy, has 
> nothing to do with the question I asked. 

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[RBW] Re: The BLAHG, eRivs?

[Orc]

Mopeds just won't stay dead, will they?   It's nice that this generation of 
them are battery-electrics, but an electric Rivespa will never displace any 
of my clutter of pushbikes.


-david parsons

On Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 11:53:44 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Grant mentioned ebikes again on the BLAHG, and even made a faint reference 
> to a possible future where they would sell one. I know it's not his thing, 
> but he was discussing it in reference to a cycling industry gradually 
> accepting that ebikes are here to stay. 
>
> So my question. If Rivendell put some bikes together with the latest 
> mid-drive motors with 5 levels of pedal-assist available, would you buy 
> one? We're talking about pedal bikes that can be ridden with low or no 
> assist, not 'hit the throttle and hang on' like a scooter. I think a kitted 
> Clem or Hunqapillar would be fun, plus useful as commuters.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Bliss

[Orc]

On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 4:09:14 AM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Thanks for the feedback. I have Noodles on my Sam set slightly above 
> saddle height. I can't say enough about how great these bars are. Perfectly 
> comfortable drop bars in every way. 
>

What's particularly good about them that something like a set of 
Lauterwasser bars wouldn't cover?   If you don't need a pop-up position, 
want the two hand angles you'd get with drops, and don't want the 
longitudinal hand positions to be pulled way back, that /might/ be a good 
way to go.(I've found that the Lauterwasser bars gave me about 80% of 
it;  not having a pop-up position for navigating traffic and not being able 
to get them nearly as low as I like wrote them off, but they're still 
kicking around my bike mess because hope springs eternal.)

-david parsons


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[RBW] Re: Riv Redwood Identity Crisis. Tire recommendations needed.

[Orc]

On Saturday, May 13, 2017 at 3:49:52 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> ... I myself am perfectly happy riding on 35mm Forte Metro-ST tires from 
> Performance bike and they continue to satisfy me after multiple sets. If I 
> had another bike that needed that size I'd buy more. They are plenty 
> "supple" to me on a Reynolds 531C sport-touring frame.
>
>  If I wanted truly exceptional wheels and tires I wiuld not even be riding 
> clinchers, but tubulars. And no , not even the best clinchers come close.
>
 
Tubulars are really nice, but I'm not sure they're a ride changer?I 
spent a few months riding good tubulars a few years back, and aside from 
being able to chug down a gravel road on 23s without feeling like I was 
being put through a polishing tumbler they didn't give me anything that 
Nomad 28s didn't already provide without having to worry about ripping the 
casing off when peeling back the basetape to fix a puncture.

Performance/Nashbar occasionally have really nice tires, it's just a 
crapshoot to pick them out from the clunkers.

-david parsons


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[RBW] Re: Riv Redwood Identity Crisis. Tire recommendations needed.

[Orc]

On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 8:00:57 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I'm familiar with Compass and have them
> on a few bikes. Just curious what other options are out there. 
> David

 
In 700c, there's always the Resist Nomad.   The Nomad 28 is the best of the 
lot, but the 35s are fairly close behind  (The Nomad 28s are what switched 
gravel riding from a thing I had to do to finish brevets into a complete 
joy.  They're a bit rougher riding than a Confrerie or Pari-Moto because 
they're narrower, but they're marvellously stable on all of the gravelled 
forest roads and farm roads I've ridden them on.   Sadly, Resist doesn't 
seem to be interested in producing a 27.5 version of the Nomad 28.)


-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: Riv Redwood Identity Crisis. Tire recommendations needed.

[Orc]

Hutchinson Confrérie des 650B; 32mm, which is small enough to be speedy, 
but big enough to float on gravel roads. If you're feeling daring, get a 
pair of TLR-ready wheels and run them tubeless at 35-45psi.

-david parsons

On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 1:07:52 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> My Riv Redwood has been fickle over the past couple years. It wanted to be 
> a road bike, then it got the idea that it could fit 650b in the 46mm range. 
> It went back and forth between those personalities for awhile.
> Lately it's been intimidated by other bikes that fit large volume tire 
> bikes it shares garage hooks with. Riv Clem and BMC Monstercross are making 
> it feel unsure of its large volume tire capacities.
> So, it wants to go back to being a road bike, but has moved out of the 
> city near gravel/dirt trails and wants to get some riding time in.
> I heard it talking about wanting to wear some 700x35 Panaracer Gravel King 
> SK's. It feels comfortable wearing up to actual 38mm 700c tires.
>
> What tires would you recommend to the Redwood in its ongoing identity 
> crisis?
> I'll pass along the info.
> David
> River Grove, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

How wide do the Horizons measure on your machine?

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 12:52:23 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> I recently tried the WTB Horizon 650B X 47mm tires & I liked them a lot. 
> Great tire for an Appa. Clem or Clementine!
> They also just introduced their byway 47 which looks like a variation if 
> the theme.

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[RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

F(anyone's)I;   Schwalbe One 650x25b tires on a 650b conversion:



Riv content is, um, the waterbottle is from the Rivendell mothership and 
the waterbottle lid is from Rivelo.



I don't think there's a single Rivendell frame that wouldn't look silly 
with this wheelset, unless I could hop in a time machine and get a 
first-year custom made; You can only imagine how ridiculous these wheels 
look under a Rosco  (the photos I posted a while back of the Rosco MTM I'm 
trying to sell? those tires (Confreries) are huge compared to these) but 
they give me buckets of room for fenders on this frame+fork setup.


-david "they ride nicely, too, though they're amazingly slippery on gravel" 
parsons

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[RBW] Re: OTT: 10 speed X Wide Low(2x)?

[Orc]

I've done a 10-speed chain with a Sugino 0x801d, which is similarly meant 
for up to 9 speed.   Biopace, so I couldn't do anything fancy with the 
rings to get them closer together, but no chain suck, even with 48/28 
chainrings.

-david parsons

On Friday, May 5, 2017 at 2:17:49 PM UTC-7, Coconutbill wrote:
>
> Im curious about whether anyone here has has experimented with a drive 
> train like this: 10 speed rear cassette (for instance 11-42), in 
> combination with a Sugino Wide Low crankset.
> The logical concern would be whether or not the chain would get stuck 
> between the rear cogs, as the Wide Low is meant for up to 9 speed. 
> Is it possible that with the correct gearing this could work? 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Orc]

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 2:16:45 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Well, there is a alot of stuff on the internet about living simple and 
> getting back into natural predisposition in terms of food, clothing and 
> health.  Like the Paleo diet or barefoot shoes, or sitting on the floor 
> instead of chairs and natural clothing.  You must have seen stuff like this 
> on the web and similar
>

There's a lot of stuff like this on the web, yes, but with citations that 
pass the laugh test?  Not so much.

Humans are a pretty adaptable species;  we're also pretty good at 
convincing ourselves that the way we live right now is the way humans were 
designed to live.   I do most of my brazing & wheelbuilding whilst sitting 
on the floor, but I'm not sure what benefit I get from doing that aside 
from being motivated to sweep the floor more often.

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Orc]

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 1:28:46 PM UTC-7, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> Maybe wearing shoes of some sort but I think you are rushing to discredit 
> him a little to quickly Orc.
>

I'm not so much trying to discredit him as trying to see where that 
argument even comes from.  There have been awful shoes out there, but the 
awful designs don't last and people are still wearing shoes, which seems to 
contradict the argument by design.


-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: regarding orange bikes

[Orc]

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 12:19:02 PM UTC-7, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Obviously a highly subjective question, but I like hearing the opinions on 
> this board. The question: for long-term owners of orange bikes, do you find 
> yourself getting sick of orange after a while, more so than with other 
> colors? 
>
 
Nope  (but I can't think of any frame color I've gotten tired with, though 
the key lime green that the first gen Rosco Bubbe mixtes were painted in is 
a fairly boring color.)

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Orc]

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 11:30:46 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
>  Our feet weren't engineered to be cushioned, supported, formed, and 
> imprisoned
>

Cite?   Humans have been wearing shoes for at least 10,000 years (and if 
the commentary on the net of a million lies is at all accurate, have been 
wearing shoes for considerably longer based on changes in toe bone 
thickness) which seems to run completely contrary to your argument?

-david parsons

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivs on the Great Divide Route?

[Orc]

On Wednesday, April 26, 2017 at 1:32:15 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Curious, and very daring too: has anyone ever modified a Rivendell frame 
> to accept disc brakes? My beau ideal, or perhaps belle ideale, is an 
> Atlantis that takes 60 mm tires with fenders and air between them, and that 
> has disc brakes and drop bar.
>

If I can't get rid on the Rosco carcass that's sitting in my basement I'll 
probably put a disc mount on the rear triangle;  in my (small) experience 
discifying frames it's fairly safe to braze post mounts onto the axle end 
of a seatstay because that wheel will break loose and skid before the 
forces get high enough to damage the tubing.   The fork, on the other hand, 
I'd set aside and replace with a new explicitly disc-capable one; the 
failure case would trash an otherwise perfectly good fork (and possibly a 
perfectly good rider as well), and there seem to be a few companies still 
making 1" disc forks out there.

I'd bet if you sniffed around town you might find a framebuilder who'd be 
amused enough by the idea that she'd put a disc mount on a Riv for you.

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[RBW] Re: Worry about age of Tires?

[Orc]

Crappy old tires stay ridable for a lot longer than you can think (the 
original 700c tires in my 1989 Trek 1000 stayed in service until around 
2010, including a bit of plodding up and down railroad grades when they 
were so old that the filthwalls were starting to fray) but if I was in your 
shoes I'd stuff them into the machine now and burn off a couple of hundred 
miles on easy-to-escape-from logging roads to to be paranoid that they 
won't spontaneously disintegrate when you're 50 miles away from the nearest 
convenience store.

-david parsons

On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 4:47:38 PM UTC-7, Jon BALER wrote:
>
> I've got a pair of WTB Vulpine 2.1" tires that came stock on my Gen 1 
> Salsa Fargo, which would make them probably 8+ years old.  I really like 
> the tires, but haven't put too many miles on them.  I used the Fargo more 
> for paved touring and commuting.
>
> Anyway, I am liking them on my Salsa Marrakesh for an upcoming gravel road 
> tour (e.g. remote, rough mountain gravel roads).  Any concerns with using a 
> tire that old?   They have been stored folded and indoors, and don't show 
> any obvious signs of age.  
>
> thanks
>
> Jon
> Ellicott City, MD
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Fork with Canti Posts for 650b Homer

[Orc]

On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 5:09:27 PM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> used Fargo ... mechanical disc brakes
>

+1 on disc brakes.  Not for any better stopping ability, but because large 
chunks of the divide are at the dog end of nowhere and you can stagger a 
lot further on a battered wheel with a disc brake than you can (safely) do 
with one with a rim brake pulled all the way open to clear the wildly 
staggering rim.(Also applicable with the Homer + new fork approach; get 
a fork that has disc mounts and mullet your way to glory.)

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Fork with Canti Posts for 650b Homer

[Orc]

I'm not sure that caliper brakes would be a problem for braking as much as 
they'd be a problem for clearance.   If you're going with fatbike tires 
nothing except an insanely long reach single-pivot brakes would even fit 
around the tires (and then you'd need something like a Travel Agent to get 
the mechanical advantage back, otherwise, as was mentioned, your hands 
would rapidly get tired of the whole scheme.)

(If I were in your shoes I'd just braze canti posts onto the Homer and 
v-brake all the things!, but I can't suggest spending a few years brazing 
things together as the fastest and cheapest way to get ready to UBtD.)

On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 11:54:56 AM UTC-7, Coconutbill wrote:
>
> Basically the conclusion Ive come to. Im anxious to find a solid steed for 
> this adventure.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Fork with Canti Posts for 650b Homer

[Orc]

Is it that important to have mega-stopping power on the rear end of your 
bicycle?   I've got some fairly blingy xtr parallel push v-brakes on the 
rear end of my mountainhack, and they do stop the wheel really well, but 
when they stop the wheel on basically any sort of surface the thing breaks 
loose and just sldes along.
Pari-Motos, so not the sort of tread that can bite into a rocky path, but 
even in this past winter when everything was covered with snow and I had 
studded tires on the thing the rear wheel would still break loose and 
slither across the ice unless I flung myself way back to get more weight on 
that wheel.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, April 18, 2017 at 10:55:29 AM UTC-7, Coconutbill wrote:
>
> All are good suggestions, but i realized that it would be more practical 
> just to ride an old Klunker mountain bike with 2.3's.
> i've tried the Paul racers and because my frame is very small, there's not 
> enough distance in the rear from the cable hanger to get enough mechanical 
> advantage .
> In the front it could work, but my fork wont take the stress, since it has 
> been repaired once already. It dawned on me that a Surly fork wouldnt 
> necessarily be a good choice, because Rivendells have 1'' steerers!
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Fork with Canti Posts for 650b Homer

[Orc]

Have you considered centerpulls?  (Assuming, of course, they could fit 
around a 2+ diameter tire)   That's certainly a cheaper alternative than 
either buying a new fork or getting canti posts brazed onto your existing 
fork.

-david parsons

On Tuesday, April 18, 2017 at 10:28:16 AM UTC-7, Coconutbill wrote:
>
> Hello Bunch,
>
> I am contemplating under-biking the Great Divide on my sole steed, A. 
> Homer Hilsen. We have ridden all types of terrain together, and it would 
> suite my finances to ride what Ive got. 
>
> Because my sidepulls are not providing enough braking power, Im 
> contemplating purchasing a new fork. It could be a Surly, or a Rivendell 
> fork, it would just need to have Canti-Posts for the use of V-Brakes, or 
> something with more stopping power, and suit a 650b wheel.
>
> Im open to suggestions , and if you have a fork of this sort you'd be 
> willing to sell, please send me a message.
>
> Kind regards,
> Evan S.
>

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[RBW] Re: #%*#! Fenders!!!!

[Orc]

Bolt it to the rack;  thermoplastic fenders are nice, but they tend to want 
to weave their way sinuously around the perimeter of the wheel, and nailing 
the front of the fender in place reduces the visible weaving.

-david parsons


On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 6:19:37 PM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Ok I broke the cardinal rule and didn't leave well enough alone. I have a 
> newer Sam with sidepull Tektro brakes. My tires are 40mm Clement MSO. The 
> fenders are SKS P45. My front fender is driving me nuts! I had been riding 
> the bike without any rubbing but I noticed the other day that the nose of 
> the fender is curved to one side. I attempted to straighten it out and I 
> quickly determined there is nothing I can do to straighten it. Now I am 
> putting it all back together including the Mark's rack and I can get it so 
> it's not rubbing. It's close but the little rubber hairs on the tire are 
> rubbing. Maybe when I get it off the stand and go ride it I won't notice 
> but I could help but think a better mechanic then I can get them just 
> right. At this point I'm ready to rip them both off. Is there anyone out 
> there who can restore my sanity by giving me some tips on aligning these 
> properly?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

Nice!  A set of black Pari-Motos would go really well with that machine; 
have you tried them?

For comparison:
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qNz_sTbayCQ/WPGctVb3I2I/AMA/hl1AXAhujw8xVrPd6MXfbTMULqePiZP8ACLcB/s1600/32886770094_af13c4b1b5_k.jpg>


















(No pump that day; I was out picking up a pair of chainstays for a new 
frame and wasn't sure if they'd foul and then knock the pump loose. 
 Pari-Motos on this thing because it's got fender spacing for Nokian A10s 
and Confreries look a little undersized under fenders this large.)

-david parsons


On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 7:03:16 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 04/14/2017 09:55 PM, Orc wrote:
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>>
>>
>> On 04/14/2017 09:35 PM, Orc wrote: 
>> > The Zefal frame pumps are pretty good pumps, and they aren't the theft 
>> > magnets the new(ish) SKS semi-mini floor pumps is, but the one I have 
>> > takes something around 100 pumps to get a Pari-Moto up to 30 psi, 
>> > which is just barely enough to make it not unridably sloshy. 
>> > 
>> > But, yes, I concede this point:  if I had SKS semi-mini floor pumps 
>> > for all of my machines this wouldn't be an issue, though then I'd 
>> > leave all those carefully brazed on pump pegs going to waste. 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>>
>> I get a 42mm Hetre up to 50 psi with 100 strokes of a Zefal HPX.  50 psi 
>> is my normal operating pressure with that tire. 
>>
>>
> Want to trade pumps?
>
>
> Not a chance.  Here's my HPX 4.
>
>
>
> It didn't come that way.  It took a few hours with varying grades of 
> sandpaper and steel wool and aluminum polish to get it that way: sweat 
> equity.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 6:42:55 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 04/14/2017 09:35 PM, Orc wrote: 
> > The Zefal frame pumps are pretty good pumps, and they aren't the theft 
> > magnets the new(ish) SKS semi-mini floor pumps is, but the one I have 
> > takes something around 100 pumps to get a Pari-Moto up to 30 psi, 
> > which is just barely enough to make it not unridably sloshy. 
> > 
> > But, yes, I concede this point:  if I had SKS semi-mini floor pumps 
> > for all of my machines this wouldn't be an issue, though then I'd 
> > leave all those carefully brazed on pump pegs going to waste. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
>
> I get a 42mm Hetre up to 50 psi with 100 strokes of a Zefal HPX.  50 psi 
> is my normal operating pressure with that tire. 
>
>
Want to trade pumps?

-david "helpful" parsons 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

The Zefal frame pumps are pretty good pumps, and they aren't the theft 
magnets the new(ish) SKS semi-mini floor pumps is, but the one I have takes 
something around 100 pumps to get a Pari-Moto up to 30 psi, which is just 
barely enough to make it not unridably sloshy. 

But, yes, I concede this point:  if I had SKS semi-mini floor pumps for all 
of my machines this wouldn't be an issue, though then I'd leave all those 
carefully brazed on pump pegs going to waste.


-david parsons

On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 5:47:25 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> You need a better pump.
>
> On 04/14/2017 07:11 PM, Orc wrote:
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 7:00:05 AM UTC-7, Orc wrote: 
>>
>>
>>
>> I've found 3.5 advantages
>>
>>
>Actually 4.5;  even with a 38 it takes *forever* to pump up a tire.
>
>
>   -david "Pari-Motos aren't as bad as Parigi-Roubaix for being flat 
> magnets, but they're sufficient for the task" parsons 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 7:00:05 AM UTC-7, Orc wrote:
>
>
>
> I've found 3.5 advantages
>
>
   Actually 4.5;  even with a 38 it takes *forever* to pump up a tire.


  -david "Pari-Motos aren't as bad as Parigi-Roubaix for being flat 
magnets, but they're sufficient for the task" parsons 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

On Friday, April 14, 2017 at 4:52:22 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 04/14/2017 12:44 AM, Orc wrote:
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote: 
>>
>> Trying to make up my mind as to whether I should buy P50 fender or P55.   
>>
>> I like P50 much better in terms of fit and looks. 
>>
>> Seems like 650B x 42 is the widest tire I can go if I install P50, so  I 
>> bought a pair of Pari Moto 650b x 42.
>>
>> Before I commit to P50 I wanted to ask the experts here if I should keep 
>> an option open for wider tires and go with P55.
>>
>  
> To be contrary, I'd suggest narrower tires.   
>
>
> Why would you want to do that?  What benefit or advantage would you get 
> from doing so?
>


I've found 3.5 advantages

1) lighter
2) slightly faster
3) less casing flop when tire pressure gets low
3.5) easier to build a frame when I don't have to bend the chainstays to 
fit around a fat tire

-david parsons

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[RBW] Re: threaded fork crown rod breakage on my Nitto 32F... punishment or a sign? Also, it can be salvaged, right?

[Orc]

I might be making things up as I go along, but some (all?) of the Nitto 
front racks use an m6 bolt brazed onto the end of a steel tube for the fork 
crown stay, so if there's any flexing it will stress the bolt<->bolt head 
junction (which has already been weakened by brazing it to the tube.)   
I've had one that failed like that pass through my hands, and there are 
pictures on flickr of other racks that have died in the the same way.

You might be able to find someone locally who can braze a new bolt on for 
you, and if not and you're willing to cover shipping send it to me and I'll 
braze a new bolt or a flat mounting plate onto it for you.

-david parsons

On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 7:48:52 PM UTC-7, Patch T wrote:
>
> Hey Bunch,
>
> I posted not long ago asking advice on how best to secure a (still 
> un-proffered) rando bag to a mini front rack, specifically an integrated 
> decaleur model, which would potentially swap out the Nitto MIni Front (32F) 
> that came on my newish-to-me Quickbeam; a decision I was about to make 
> because after some (albeit not exhaustive) research I had come to the 
> understanding that an integrated rack/decaleur system was less shaky, less 
> noisy, less heavy, more stout, than purchasing a separate decaleur. I have 
> since been convinced otherwise, and my decision is not the story here.
>
> A week later, having still pushed no buttons and charged no accounts on 
> this matter, I noticed my (absolutely adored) 32F was a little loosey, and 
> upon further examination ruled out the mid-fork mounting points and settled 
> on the fork crown nut to the integrated rack-bolt-rod-thing. I tightened 
> said nut with ample, yet not-crazy pressure, and it happily spun to the 
> right after the briefest moment of uninspired resistance. And it continued 
> to spin under my firmgentle suggestion until the thang fell to the floor, 
> with half the threaded rod intact. A result I would have expected (and have 
> certainly experienced) with less-notable parts n bits, but I was quite 
> surprised to have a Nitto fail me in this way.
>
> Longish story shorterish, did my mini Nitto front rack take my 
> consideration of another rack as betrayal and decide to punish us both?
>
> Or does this happen? Should I not be so surprised?
>
> Lastly, what do I do next? For now I've secured the rack pretty decently 
> with a couple Irish straps [ the greatest thing Riv ever sold, besides the 
> QB ;) ]. There is still a bit of rack-attached rod sitting inside the fork 
> crown. Do I buy another set of struts for the rear eyelets on that rack and 
> mount them to the canti posts? The aesthetic of that solution bums me out 
> but, but it seems to me an affordable fix, and there certainly are worse 
> problems to have than not satiating my preference for two struts. I mean, 
> it would that make the rack stronger, no?
>
>
> Love
> Patch
> LACA
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Orc]

On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
> Trying to make up my mind as to whether I should buy P50 fender or P55.  
>
> I like P50 much better in terms of fit and looks. 
>
> Seems like 650B x 42 is the widest tire I can go if I install P50, so  I 
> bought a pair of Pari Moto 650b x 42.
>
> Before I commit to P50 I wanted to ask the experts here if I should keep 
> an option open for wider tires and go with P55.
>
 
To be contrary, I'd suggest narrower tires.   My fat 650b tires are 38 
Pari-Motos, which are perfectly happy at speed on loose gravel roads, but 
so are the Confrérie des 650B tires I ride on my faster 650b machines (and 
I have a pair of Schwalbe Ones @ 650x25b that are waiting for me to shuffle 
wheelsets so I can get them fitted on a pair of rims that can support 
80-90psi;  I do not expect those will ride very fast on loose gravel, but 
the target machine is for short brevets on mainly paved roads.)

Confréries fit very nicely under a 50mm fender and don't look obviously 
undersized there (I ran them under some reradiused 700c V-O Zeppelins on a 
couple of machines over the course of three years, only stopping when the 
Zepps started to fracture at the rear brake bridge) and 38 Pari-Motos (or 
CdlVs, or even the old PNW regional default of Hetres) look just right .

I'm about 6'1" and weigh between 170-190 pounds depending on how 
obsessively I'm riding, so I'm not exactly a featherweight.The only 
thing that might make it easier for me to ride (relatively) narrow tires is 
that I shove my handlebars between 5-6 inches lower than my saddle so I 
float myself between the bars and the saddle except when I'm falling over 
with exhaustion;  if you're going for a riv fit, your weight balance might 
be back far enough so that what I consider ballon tires won't give you 
enough float to compensate for the constant rumble of loose gravel or 
crappy city streets.

-david parsons


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Re: [RBW] Re: Opinions on saddlebags? Swift vs. Carradice vs. Sackville

[Orc]

On Monday, April 10, 2017 at 7:36:24 PM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> Then the Bagman breaks and
>

... you go out and buy one of the Ocean Air bagman clones?

-david parsons 

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[RBW] Re: N = ? or How do you decide how many bikes to own?

[Orc]

I'm not sure why you think the Roadini isn't double butted; the brochure 
certainly implies that it is?   I'm not sure how /heavy/ the tubing is, but 
saying that the tubes are cut from the big-butted end sounds like it's 
being made from regular d-b tubing.

-david parsons



On Monday, April 10, 2017 at 6:53:55 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Austin,
>
> I am not sure why you would want to get a Roadini (just because it's a 
> Riv?) - the tubing is going to be worse (at least on paper.) The Roadini is 
> not double butted, so would be heavier and not as lively? That's just my 
> opinion.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: N = ? or How do you decide how many bikes to own?

[Orc]

Sometimes bicycles just accumulate without any rhyme or reason.

In my case, I started with TBBITW (my Trek 1000), which served me well for 
about two decades by itself, but then was extended into an xtracycle and 
made even better.  ~15,000 miles of long distance riding later I started 
doing organized randonneuring and started to find places where it wasn't 
TBBITW (it didn't climb very enthusiastically, which is a big problem in 
PNW randonneuring) so I bought a second machine for randonneuring and took 
it's place.   #2 started as a 650b machine, but the selection of 650b tires 
at the time sucked and I converted it to 700c.  About this time the bike 
nerds I knew started getting the fat tire disease and I discovered TBTITW 
(the best tires in the world, aka the 700x28c Resist Nomad), so I spent a 
couple hundred dollars on a used frame + components + Nomad 45s to build 
#3; a 700c fat-for-me bike (#3 didn't last very long;  I used it with tires 
of various sizes for a while, but it always felt like climbing up into the 
cab of a truck to ride it)   

Around this same time, I built bicycles for my sweetie (Murray Baja; it's 
amazing how much nicer a gaspipe frame rides when you strip all the extra 
heavy components off and make it into a 650b machine.  She spent $5 for it, 
and I put maybe $350 -- the SON28 was most of this -- into making it 
better) and children (Kogswell P/R for the eldest, and a tiny Shiromoto tri 
frame for the youngest) and poking around at these two 650b machines 
rekindled my itch for 650b, so when I had a chance to get a free GT Talera 
frame I used it and ended up with a 650b disc Sweet Fixie(tm) as my #4.

I passed a free pile on the way home from the store one afternoon and 
picked up #5 -- a SE draft gaspipe frame -- which got a pair of practice 
wheels stuffed under it to make a 3-speed project bike.

A third-hand Ahearne frame passed through my hands around then, and #3 was 
scrapped to provide parts to test it out (pretty frame, planed like it was 
going out of style, but slow and too tall for me) before I flipped the 
frame to someone in Alaska.

Sometime between the Sweet Fixie(tm) and the the Ahearne's transit of my 
clutter  I'd pulled the Trek 1000 frame out of my xtracycle when the DS 
chainstay had started to debond because of the lever action of countless 
heavily loaded trips back home from shopping, but one day (after I'd built 
a set of disc-specific wheels for the GT) I looked at the Trek 1000 frame, 
the old 650b rims from the GT's original wheelset, and decided that instead 
of these pieces lying around separately they'd do well together (and the 
lack of leverage + chain would keep the DS chainstay from further 
debonding) and with a pair of T2BTITW (the second best tires in the world; 
the 650x32b Hutchinson Confrerie des 650) it would give me a nice 
randonneuring bike again.

And then I found a wrecked (t-boned by a truck and with the rear triangle 
bent all to pieces) Trek 820 frame in size tiny that I grabbed for brazing 
practice and, after impulsively building it up with spare parts and riding 
it on a 200k loop realized that all of my previous bicycles suffered from 
being too tall and short for me.  I improved it by throwing away the 
threaded fork, then cutting off the rear triangle and brazing on a new one, 
then rode it almost exclusively for a year until I was right hooked 
(killing the fork, bending but not breaking the rear triangle, and breaking 
my left shoulder) and had to sideline it for the handmade from that I'd 
made as a copy of it but without mountain HT/ST geometry or super-heavy 
tubing.

So 6 machines (the handmade frame had the ST fail at the BB and I'm 
building a replacement frame while I can still get True Temper tubing), all 
part of an interative process to work out the most comfortable fit, and all 
(except the xtracycle) basically the same sort of machine give or take 6-8 
gears or a coaster hub.

   #1 Trek 1000, xtracycled
   #2 Soma Speedster, 650b->700c
   #3 Schwinn Crisscross, then Ahearne, then SE draft
   #4 GT Talera, 650b disc sweet fixie
   #5 Trek 1000, dextracycled & 650b
   #6 Mountainhack (Trek 820+Orc) 650b

So many things needed to come together to get from #1 to #6 that I don't 
know what I could have done to streamline the process.   And it's not as if 
1-5 are horrible machine, but they basically have no resale value for 
anything other than parts, and those parts are easier to find when they're 
attached to a functional bicycle.

-david parsons

On Friday, April 7, 2017 at 4:26:01 PM UTC-7, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> I'm in the minority here in that I'm a bike minimalist. I've got TBBITW 
> (The Best Bike in the World), a 2012 55cm Betty Foy. My husband has a 52 
> Clem H, in case I need a back-up bike. I've admired the other mixtes 
> Rivendell has to offer - oh, how I love them! - but  I don't NEED them. I 
> use my bike to get around the neighborhood and haul the boys' things to