Re: [RBW] Re: how wide of wheels and tires will a specialized seqoia handle

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have a 81 Sequoia built in 3Rensho's shop. Mine clears 33 Soma Supple 
Vitesse on 700c wheels with no fenders. I might try 35s at some point, but 
these are nice for now and I have other bikes with bigger tires. 

I thought I had heard the later years had more clearance, but I just read 
somewhere that perhaps the Merz version had steeper angles and less 
clearance so as not to compete with the Expedition. 

Will in MN

On Wednesday, April 3, 2024 at 1:33:03 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> Roman at Riv has a 59cm Sequoia converted to 650b. Here’s a feature from 
> the Riv blog:
>
> [image: romansequoiabrighter-5.jpg]
>
> Roman's 59cm Sequoia - 87cm PBH 
> 
> rivbike.com 
> 
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[William Lindsay]

OK and these Treks and Fujis and Crusts don’t have to solve a problem
because they conform with each other.

OK, the objective problem with all those Treks Fujis and Crusts is none of
those bikes ride like a bike with 50cm chain stays

You are welcome.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca.

On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 5:02 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Bill
>
>
>
> I would say “solve some objective problem not addressed by all other
> bikes *or be an improvement* by all other bikes”  regardless of the
> logical/philosophical issue of Rivendells existing or nor.
>
>
>
> Also, I think most of us would agree “all other bikes” would the bikes you
> see in Trek store, a Fuji store, a Specialized store, a Crust website, a
> Walmart sporting goods section, etc.  I am not thinking about designs which
> may exist in the world where bikes are used in lieu of motorized vehicles
> and not just as a recreational diversion.
>
>
>
> John Hawrylak
>
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> *On Behalf Of *William Lindsay
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 31, 2024 6:57 PM
> *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do
> They Solve?
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> OK so you are saying that every bike on earth that is currently available
> are all in one group and Rivendells are not in that group.  In order  to be
> allowed to exist a Rivendell must either conform with the first group’s
> designs or solve some objective problem not addressed by all other bikes.
> Is that it?
>
>
>
> BL in EC
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 3:43 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> Good challenge, what I was thinking is what problem with bikes is the long
> C/S solving?  I thought it was a straight forward question.
>
>
>
> I suggest *eliminate* “in bike design” and problems or current
> deficiencies refer to the current bikes available.Another way of saying
> it is what “improvements” in bicycles result from the Long C/S.
>
>
>
> So far the responses indicate Long C/S improve
>
> Overall handling, seems to apply to all surfaces.
>
> Comfort, especially from bumps in the surface.
>
> Climbing and Descending single track type trails (like the ones in the RBW
> pictures on Mt Diablo).  The climbing improvement appears to due to
> improved weight distribution vs improved bio-mechanical items.
>
>
>
> John Hawrylak
>
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> *On Behalf Of *Bill Lindsay
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 31, 2024 5:19 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They
> Solve?
>
>
>
> The OP asked: "*What problem or current deficiency in bike design is
> Grant solving by using long chain stays"*
>
>
>
> What exactly is this entity you call "bike design"?  If you can define
> that, perhaps I can respond to your question (emphatically stated with FOUR
> question marks)
>
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, March 31, 2024 at 10:50:18 AM UTC-7 John Hawrylak, Woodstown
> NJ wrote:
>
> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?",
> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems
> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
>
> upright riding
>
> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>
>
>
> I'll just note 2 'facts'
>
> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use
> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with
> long stays.
>
> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a
> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were
> solutions to actual problems.
>
>
>
> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by
> using long chain stays*
>
> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
>
> Or do they solve a real problem???
>
>
>
> John Hawrylak
>
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm
> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the
> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To uns

Re: [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

[William Lindsay]

John

OK so you are saying that every bike on earth that is currently available
are all in one group and Rivendells are not in that group.  In order  to be
allowed to exist a Rivendell must either conform with the first group’s
designs or solve some objective problem not addressed by all other bikes.
Is that it?

BL in EC

On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 3:43 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Bill
>
>
>
> Good challenge, what I was thinking is what problem with bikes is the long
> C/S solving?  I thought it was a straight forward question.
>
>
>
> I suggest *eliminate* “in bike design” and problems or current
> deficiencies refer to the current bikes available.Another way of saying
> it is what “improvements” in bicycles result from the Long C/S.
>
>
>
> So far the responses indicate Long C/S improve
>
> Overall handling, seems to apply to all surfaces.
>
> Comfort, especially from bumps in the surface.
>
> Climbing and Descending single track type trails (like the ones in the RBW
> pictures on Mt Diablo).  The climbing improvement appears to due to
> improved weight distribution vs improved bio-mechanical items.
>
>
>
> John Hawrylak
>
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com <
> rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> *On Behalf Of *Bill Lindsay
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 31, 2024 5:19 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They
> Solve?
>
>
>
> The OP asked: "*What problem or current deficiency in bike design is
> Grant solving by using long chain stays"*
>
>
>
> What exactly is this entity you call "bike design"?  If you can define
> that, perhaps I can respond to your question (emphatically stated with FOUR
> question marks)
>
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Sunday, March 31, 2024 at 10:50:18 AM UTC-7 John Hawrylak, Woodstown
> NJ wrote:
>
> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?",
> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems
> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
>
> upright riding
>
> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>
>
>
> I'll just note 2 'facts'
>
> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use
> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with
> long stays.
>
> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a
> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were
> solutions to actual problems.
>
>
>
> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by
> using long chain stays*
>
> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
>
> Or do they solve a real problem???
>
>
>
> John Hawrylak
>
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm
> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Stainless bottle/ cage recommendation

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Patrick: i just have the Bivo in the pop-spout type. They are a little 
funky with the air straw thing, but I like them. I am careful not to leave 
water in them over a period of days because the lid/straw is finicky to 
clean. 

On Tuesday, February 27, 2024 at 6:02:29 PM UTC-6 rus...@gmail.com wrote:

> [image: IMG_0364.jpeg]K
>
> My choices: King cages and Polar water bottles, both made in Colorado. 
>
> Russell Duncan
> Western Massachusetts 
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 27, 2024 at 11:14:33 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Actually, those Arundels look very possible since the design would 
>> readily expand to accept slightly oversized bottles like the REI Microlite. 
>> Must look into those.
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 27, 2024 at 6:27 AM Caroline Golum  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Gonna throw my hat in the ring for the Arundel stainless steel cage, 
>>> which I've had for 10+ years without a hitch. And it's slightly adjustable 
>>> as the steel has some give to it. I've put whole bottles of wine in there, 
>>> iced coffee cups, my regular Yeti, etc. 
>>> https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/arundel-stainless-steel-bottle-cage?adl=1_source=1=CjwKCAiArfauBhApEiwAeoB7qJY2LE6AjEPFs4ISofj1-YeVOCe5M2K-Uf8yY8I5FzTODM30xouNXhoCtb8QAvD_BwE
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 27, 2024 at 5:53:34 AM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:
>>>

 Salsa Nickless Cage is my favorite.  Kind of a copy of the Nitto R, 
 with fatter tubing and a lot cheaper.
 On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 4:28:52 PM UTC-7 wats...@umn.edu wrote:

> I've settled on Nitto R cages and Bivo water bottles. I like this 
> combo; no rattle yet. 
>
> I have both the insulated and uninsulated bivos that I swap depending 
> on weather. It's nice to not have ice cold water on cold days in 
> Minneapolis. 
>
> On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 6:24:22 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> King Iris, Delta INOX, VO Touriste… all the same basic design but at 
>> varying price points. Personally, I have the INOX cages on all my bikes. 
>> They don’t have the shiny finish of the King, or VO versions. Most 
>> people 
>> ask me if they are titanium, but they are just stainless.
>>
>> I use the Kleen Kanteen classic stainless bottles with them, and it 
>> looks classy and doesn’t rattle.
>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>
>> On Feb 26, 2024, at 12:23 AM, Adam Moss  wrote:
>>
>> +1 for king cages and I’ve recently discovered Bivo water bottles. 
>> They’re excellent and silent. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 8:33:57 PM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:
>>
>>> + 1 Iris. Simple, indestructible, elegant shape,
>>>
>>> Jock
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:07 PM John Rinker  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I've enjoyed the Iris King cages 
 .
  
 Very secure and quite elegant looking.
 [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-25 at 8.06.35 PM.png]
 Cheers, John


 On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 7:52:55 PM UTC-8 campyo...@me.com 
 wrote:

> These have worked well for me. Adjustable fit to keep the bottle 
> firmly in place.
>
> [image: cfff0946e78b4f4406f14619c8cbfea9.jpeg]
>
> Mojave Water Bottle Cage 
> 
> velo-orange.com 
> 
> 
>  
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Feb 25, 2024, at 7:03 PM, Bernard Duhon <
> ber...@bernardduhon.com> wrote:
>
> Mates, 
>  
> I would like to migrate to a stainless water bottle.  Most folks 
> with em I noticed a rattle I could not tolerate.
>  
> Recommendation for a rattle free stainless bottle & cage ( of any 
> composition)  
>  
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
> send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
> -- 
 You received this message because you are 

Re: [RBW] Stainless bottle/ cage recommendation

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've settled on Nitto R cages and Bivo water bottles. I like this combo; no 
rattle yet. 

I have both the insulated and uninsulated bivos that I swap depending on 
weather. It's nice to not have ice cold water on cold days in Minneapolis. 

On Monday, February 26, 2024 at 6:24:22 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> King Iris, Delta INOX, VO Touriste… all the same basic design but at 
> varying price points. Personally, I have the INOX cages on all my bikes. 
> They don’t have the shiny finish of the King, or VO versions. Most people 
> ask me if they are titanium, but they are just stainless.
>
> I use the Kleen Kanteen classic stainless bottles with them, and it looks 
> classy and doesn’t rattle.
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> On Feb 26, 2024, at 12:23 AM, Adam Moss  wrote:
>
> +1 for king cages and I’ve recently discovered Bivo water bottles. 
> They’re excellent and silent. 
>
>
>
> On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 8:33:57 PM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> + 1 Iris. Simple, indestructible, elegant shape,
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:07 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>>
>>> I've enjoyed the Iris King cages 
>>> .
>>>  
>>> Very secure and quite elegant looking.
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-25 at 8.06.35 PM.png]
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 7:52:55 PM UTC-8 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>>
 These have worked well for me. Adjustable fit to keep the bottle firmly 
 in place.

 [image: cfff0946e78b4f4406f14619c8cbfea9.jpeg]

 Mojave Water Bottle Cage 
 
 velo-orange.com 
 
 
  

 --Eric Norris
 campyo...@me.com
 Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
 YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

 On Feb 25, 2024, at 7:03 PM, Bernard Duhon  
 wrote:

 Mates, 
  
 I would like to migrate to a stainless water bottle.  Most folks with 
 em I noticed a rattle I could not tolerate.
  
 Recommendation for a rattle free stainless bottle & cage ( of any 
 composition)  
  

 -- 
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 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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 .


 -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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[RBW] PSA 1997 Rivendell Road Custom 58cm

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Just a heads up, bikejerks on IG in Minneapolis has a cool Rivendell Road 
Custom for sale for $2600. Jeff Frane is the seller, has worked in the 
industry and seems to do a nice job with his builds and shipping.  From his 
add...

For Sale: $2600 obo
1997 Rivendell Custom Road
ST 58cm ctc
TT 58.5cm ctc
Standover 820mm
Ready to rip, this thing is a stone classic.
Waterford made of Reynolds 753 with 531 Fork Blades
Richard Sachs designed lugs. It currently sits on 650b wheels. Schmidt 
Dynamo front hub, rear XT hub, Velo Orange rims. Rene Herse 650x42 (looks 
like 38mm Loup Loups) tires. Velo Orange Grand Cru Cranks 170mm. XTR 9 
speed rear derailleur, XT front, wide range Sram cassette. Dia Compe 
brakes, Tektro Levers, Tange headset, Nitto bars and stem, Campy aero post, 
Brooks B17 saddle.
Pedals not included. Located in Minneapolis and shipping worldwide

My size, but redundant for me. 

Will in Minneapolis

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[RBW] Re: Best mitten design for very cold weather

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I'm still experimenting, but I knit a few pairs of large mittens a few 
years ago, and then shrunk them down alternating between hot and cold water 
to shrink/felt them for more warmth. They worked well with all my bikes. In 
a pinch when it got well below 0 here in Minneapolis, I layered the thicker 
mittens over the thinner mittens over unused dog poop bags and was quite 
warm lol. 
Will

On Friday, September 29, 2023 at 9:48:27 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:

> I believe the Craft brand lobster/trigger mitts to be rubbish. They don’t 
> let your fingers touch, wasting valuable insulation in between what could 
> otherwise be a cozy skin to skin situation. I love my relatively 
> inexpensive Toko brand cross-country ski gloves, they allow my fingers to 
> cuddle in comfort and perform their bike duties in single digit temps.
> I’ve got three pairs of xxl, which will hopefully buy me a decade or so of 
> winter bliss…
> -Kai
>
> On Friday, September 29, 2023 at 2:49:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks, all. First, should have specified: No bar mitts or Pogies as I 
>> need something that attaches to the hands and can be used on several bikes 
>> with drop bars.
>>
>> From extensive experimenting I'm now convinced that for the teens mittens 
>> are best, especially as its easiest to get wool undergloves into them than 
>> into 2-finger, 3-finger, or 5-finger gloves. (Peeve: the PIs I bought in 
>> 2022 or 2021 have a loose flannelly lining that grabs the material of the 
>> wool under gloves you are trying to insert, causing much cussing and 
>> gnashing of teeth. The earlier ones, from a year or so earlier had a less 
>> grabby lining and I wish I'd kept them, but I thought at the time they were 
>> too big.)
>>
>> The question then is, what mittens let you brake safely and shift 
>> precisely?
>>
>> The Garbage Choppers look very promising, and you say that you have no 
>> problems with dt shifters or mtb trigger shifters. That's encouraging. The 
>> Outdoor Research nylon cover + boiled wool mitten was exquisitely warm but 
>> made it hard to brake, let alone shift -- the mitts were stiff and 
>> slippery. But the GCs are made from leather, so presumably much more 
>> flexible and more grippy. I have to shift bar end shifters in friction and 
>> a Sturmey Archer trigger mounted upside-down on the bottom far end of the 
>> right drop bar hook.
>>
>> Garth: The Kincos look like good value but I'm more skeptical about the 
>> warmth of 5-finger gloves compared to mittens. Do you find something like 
>> this warm into the teens? Without nitrile undergloves? (I ain't gonna add 
>> hassle to my already hasselous winter dressing with tight-fitting rubber 
>> gloves!) The prices are certainly good.
>>
>> I take it this would be the item to get? 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Lined-Grain-Pigskin-Glove/dp/B01AT2XXX4?th=1
>>
>> Will: thanks for the Craft link. The price is good, but I think I'll look 
>> first for mittens that are less cumbersome than the OR set I had. But link 
>> noted for future reference.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who will probably have a late-ish model pair of PI 
>> lobsters for sale before too long.
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 28, 2023 at 2:15 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> The fall style thread raises a question about keeping your hands warm in 
>>> very cold temperatures (for me, very cold means in the teens F). My fingers 
>>> are very sensitive to the cold. I've bought 2 or 3 pairs of PI Lobster 
>>> gloves but I've been disappointed in the fit and the warmth. 
>>>
>>> I've used Outdoor Research heavy nylon mitten sheaths with thick boiled 
>>> wool mittens underneath, and those were very warm indeed, but very awkward 
>>> to ride in, even on a fixed gear where you have to handle only the brake 
>>> levers.
>>>
>>> Varusteleka currently has a number of mil surplus mittens with separate 
>>> thumb, separate thumb and trigger finger, and separate thumb and first 2 
>>> fingers. The whole point of mittens is to bundle the fingers together in 
>>> one compartment for mutual warmth, so each added finger compartment 
>>> sacrifices warmth.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have thoughts on a glove or a mitten or a system that gives 
>>> the best mix of warmth and dexterity? And perhaps some particular gloves or 
>>> mittens that fit the bill?
>>>
>>> Right now, I've got hugely oversized 5-finger gloves under which I can 
>>> wear wool knit gloves, under which in turn I can wear silk liners, but this 
>>> sort of layer system is cumbersome to put on and take off.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> -
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> -
>>>
>>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>>> services.
>>>
>>>
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Style on the bike

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've never had a breast pocket on a sweater to try, but thanks for the tip. 
I probably have my rando bag, frost river seat bag, or a pannier on 99% of 
my rides, but I see the appeal now. The new skill I'm learning on this 
sweater is adding in a quarter zipper, seems in my zone of proximal 
development so far. 

On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 2:24:50 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> That's probably cigarettes in the pockets of that jersey! Cool guy style.
>
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2023 at 3:12 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Rivendell's Wooly Warm sweater (and the vest too, I think) had 2 or 3 
>> rear pockets with buttons; very convenient. I wish I'd kept my WW sweater; 
>> besides pockets it had a high, button-up neck which I do like.
>>
>> Speaking of bike style and sweaters, feat your plural eyes on this 
>> ensemble ("ensemble:" both the group and their outfits). With pants legs 
>> that baggy you don't need any pockets for storage.
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> And front pockets:
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2023 at 12:12 PM Peter Adler  wrote:
>>
>>> ... I find that bike-y sweaters typically don’t have pockets, as they’re 
>>> more like apres-ski wear. The sweaters that do often have a single zippers 
>>> pocket on the back.
>>>
>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: Last Minute Japan Tips!

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I know this isn't helpful in a pinch, but I love the program Cycle Around 
Japan on NHK. Every episode is a cyclist on a 3/4 day bike trip around 
different areas of Japan stopping to visit different natural scenery and 
locals. Very soothing and interesting. Only problem is now I'll need to 
take about two years to visit all the amazing different places via bike. 

Have a great trip,
Will in MPLS

On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 12:16:04 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:

> Yes, Frakern, I forgot about that one! This is a beaufitul ride! Here are 
> my tracks and some photos from this farewell tour of Japan: GaiaGPS 
> tracks and photos 
> 
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 8:27:55 AM UTC-7 Frakern wrote:
>
>> If you have your bicycle with you, I would suggest going on the Shimanami 
>> Kaido (https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/go-shimanami/). You can also rent 
>> bicycles from there if you're not taking your bike. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 10:25:34 AM UTC+9 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Minh,
>>>
>>> Well, lucky you! Japan is a real treat in so many ways, and it is a very 
>>> lovely country in which to cycle. Where will you be going and how long will 
>>> you be in Japan? Will you have your bicycle with you?
>>>
>>> If you can get to Kyoto then I'd suggest a late-night cycle tour through 
>>> the Gion district. In addition, an early morning cycle tour of the 'Five 
>>> Mountains'- the five main Buddhist temples of Kyoto- was something I very 
>>> much enjoyed doing.
>>>
>>> If you get to Kyushu, and find yourself in Kagoshima, there's a really 
>>> great ride around Sakurajima- a very active volcano a short ferry away.
>>>
>>> There's a million things around Tokyo (not helpful, I know), but you'll 
>>> be there at a very beautiful time of year weatherwise. Hakone is a cool 
>>> day-trip where you can hike, enjoy a beautiful outdoor sculpture museum and 
>>> indoor Picasso exhibit, and dine at the Gora Brewery- a Nobu restaurant.
>>>
>>> As you may have read in Will K's musings on Tokyo, it is a wonderful 
>>> city in which to ride a bicycle.
>>>
>>> Enjoy! John
>>>
>>> On Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 2:23:35 PM UTC-7 Minh wrote:
>>>
 Reading Grant's recent blog post about visiting Nitto reminded me that 
 i'm heading to Japan next week!   

 Any last minute tips anyone would like to suggest, i already have a 
 visit to Blue Lug--need to pick up a few things that would be too 
 expensive 
 with shipping!  

 I was hoping to make it to Circles in Nagoya, but didn't work out with 
 our schedule.  Happy to take any and all suggestions!

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front basket rack recommendations

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I bought a Manivelle rack for my wife's bike, she likes it a lot! Most are 
in silver or black, but we bought this cool pink/retro style one. I bought 
it through my LBS though. 


https://cyclesmanivelle.com/en/shop/racks-baskets/manivelle-basket-editon-60s/

On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 4:14:21 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> FWIW, a friend of mine recently picked up a Pelago Rasket, and while 
> Pelago makes very nice, affordable racks, my friend said he was shocked at 
> how incredibly heavy the Rasket was.
>
> On Sep 21, 2023, at 5:08 PM, Alex K  wrote:
>
> Oh boy. That is a brilliant use of the Tumbleweed rack If only The 
> Sam fork had those mounts on the fork I really really dig that. As far 
> as the Tunitas 137 Basket Tote in the Wald 139 basket, I tried a Tunitas 
> 139 Basket Bag in the 139 basket and it was way too snug, no wiggle room 
> and I really had to jam it in there to get it to feel right. The 137 Basket 
> Tote just fits better. Similar issues with the Sackville ShopSack Large vs. 
> Medium. The large WILL fit, but the medium fits like a glove. Will keep an 
> eye out for the pelago
>
> Alex
>
>
> On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 10:28:53 AM UTC-7 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Hi Alex,
>>
>> Just double checking - but you mention a Wald 139 basket (the larger one) 
>> and the Tunitas 137 tote (the one designed for the Wald 137 basket).
>>
>> If you are looking for the larger basket, then the Pelago Rasket may be 
>> worth a look. It's another combo basket and front rack and the basket is 
>> slightly larger than the Wald 139.
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 1:12:26 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I thought it odd that the basket was a bit larger than a Wald 137. Seems 
>>> so many nice basket bags are perfectly sized for the 137. I have been very 
>>> happy mounting my 137 via zip ties to a Tumbleweed “T” rack. The best thing 
>>> about the Tumbleweed racks is the 3 bolt mounts built in to the support 
>>> legs. Makes these racks very versatile.
>>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 21, 2023, at 12:54 PM, greenteadrinkers  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> In the latest PLP video, Russ brings to light a nice basket solution 
>>> from a company called Manivelle. The Le Porteur version is a little less 
>>> than 2 lbs, which is kind of amazing for a basket and rack combination. The 
>>> standard version seems to work well with a basket bag. Looks like you might 
>>> spend under $100 for the Manivelle.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://cyclesmanivelle.com/en/-shop/racks-baskets/
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:19:47 PM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Just found a screamin deal on a fully built 51 Sam. Now it's time to 
 get it kitted out. I love my Pass And Stow for the heavy duty- stuff and 
 aesthetically, it's unmatched IMO. Perhaps a bit of overkill as a simple 
 basket rack. Would love an RBW51 Nitto rack, but not sure I can justify 
 the 
 $288 plus tax. Looking for something simple and elegant and cost-efficient 
 for mounting a Wald 139 Hardware-less Basket and a Tunitas 137 Tote. 
 If anybody has a well used RBW51 that they would be willing to part 
 with, I'd love to hear from you.
 Also looking for other options and would love to see what y'all are 
 using for your Wald 139 Baskets.
 Thanks!
 Alex
 a c k s f 7 8 gmail

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>>> 
>>> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: Style on the bike

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

This fall/winter I am planning to knit my first bike sweater. It will be a 
green quarter zip with a yellow stripe on the body and arms to match my 
Goodrich. If the fit turns out right, I will make a few more to match other 
bikes. I don't use back pockets, so the zipper will be challenge on this 
project. 

As for pants, I roll my jeans up high. This morning I forgot to unroll my 
jeans; another teacher complimented the one rolled look because they knew I 
biked to work!

Will in Minneapolis

On Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 1:30:26 PM UTC-5 Davey Two Shoes wrote:

> I usually wear a snap button down "fly fishing" shirt from Howler Bros. 
> Long sleave whatever the temps. Popping the collar and leaving the sleaves 
> down in the sun really does help. For bottoms I usually wear some sort of 
> levis cut in to Bob Weir style shorts or "bobby's". Winter I tuck my pant 
> leg into my sock if theres slack.
>
> On Monday, September 18, 2023 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
>> I had a longer, rambling, draft response on this topic that is better 
>> left unread and may revisit to actually re-organize my thoughts at some 
>> point and maybe add to the discussion but had to at least come back to add 
>> one note:  With all the mention of WIDE legs and '90's attire returning... 
>> as another 90's (Gen. 'something or another' and class of '99!) member, I 
>> can't help but imagine someone attempting a tuck/peg & fold or ankle 
>> strapping on some of those ultra wide JNCO jeans for a ride.  Thanks for 
>> the much needed laughs!  The kind with deep pockets could even carry a 
>> pump, tube(s), toolkit, snacks, Hydroflasks, etc!  Who needs racks or bags 
>> or jersey pockets?!
>>
>> Brian
>> Lawrence NJ
>>
>> On Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 3:52:21 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Leah
>>>
>>> If you are claiming credit for turning me into a fop, then I'd dispute 
>>> that claim
>>> If you are claiming credit for helping make the RBW Group a more 
>>> welcoming space for people like me to let their fop flag fly, then I'd 
>>> definitely agree.
>>>
>>> :)
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 10:45:48 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>
 See? Already my Bike Fashion Thread is changing the world. I’ll try to 
 remain humble over here.
 Leah

 On Sep 17, 2023, at 1:14 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

 I've got three Ostroy resort shirts now... and two more in my "Cart". 
 They are addictive.


 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Saturday, September 16, 2023 at 10:21:05 AM UTC-7 bei...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Leah, this thread is an awesome idea and I want a men’s version of 
> your LL Bean jumper. That thing is awesome!
>
> Luke’s photos make me think that Rivendell should start selling 
> turquoise jewelry under their “Silver” brand to accompany all 
> Atlantises…men definitely need more accessories! 
>
> My brother used to work at a local bike shop and got me hooked on 
> wearing these “Resort Shirts” from Ostroy, which are great on warmer days 
> and also really fun party shirts:
>
> https://ostroy.com/collections/resort-shirts
>
> That, paired with some Jcrew Dock Shorts and a pair of Bedrock sandals 
> is my go-to bike fit for May-September. 
> [image: IMG_1330.jpeg]
>
>
> Whenever I wear pants on the bike, the drive side pant leg is always 
> folded over to take in slack and tucked into my sock. 
>
> - Christian in Colorado, 
> who just learned how to respond to this group on a cell phone…
> On Saturday, September 16, 2023 at 5:24:38 AM UTC-6 Bicycle Belle Ding 
> Ding! wrote:
>
>> Steve - I love your style, both bike and outfit! How is that Platy 
>> treating you? 
>>
>> Sally - great use of the poodle sock, and you know I fully support a 
>> matching Platypus! Though I do so love a Clem, too…
>>
>> I’m going to put on a fall outfit today, but I haven’t decided if it 
>> will be my freshly-hemmed wide leg trousers yet. I shudder when I think 
>> of 
>> trying to keep them out of the chainrings of my mermaid Platy. After 
>> years 
>> of skinny jeans they just seem SO WIDE. I did get more leg straps 
>> (pink!) 
>> so we’ll see. I’ll post a photo later, if I can get one of these 
>> teenagers 
>> to help me.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 15, 2023, at 6:27 PM, Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>
>> The late 90s were also my era. I was obsessed with mountain biking 
>> then as well, although I was less concerned about chain grease on my 
>> pants 
>> at the time. This old photo shows me riding pretty baggy jeans without a 
>> tucked cuff, but I recall I used to always wear longer socks and tuck my 
>> drive side pant leg in.  I also wore capri length baggy jeans in order 
>> to 
>> 

[RBW] Re: Experience with TRP Ultra-Ergo Brake Levers

[William Schaefer]

Thanks Eric. It is indeed a 26” Atlantis with Rat Trap Pass Tires (good 
eye). I’ve been really enjoying the plush nature of those tires. Quite a 
switch up from my previous aluminum bike with 35 mm tires. Rides like a 
dream. Appreciate the insight on the levers. I actually raised them up a 
bit yesterday (but not quite as high as they were placed originally) and it 
feels just right. Guess I just needed to play with it a bit. Love the 
Hillborne, and saw your other post. Hope you can get that derailleur hanger 
braised on there soon!
On Friday, July 28, 2023 at 2:59:03 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looks like a nice bike, WLS821. Is that a 26" wheeled Atlantis with Rat 
> Trap Pass tires? 
>
>
> [image: IMG_1369 3.jpg]
>
> Here's my Sam Hillborne with the Tektro RRL levers. Mine are a bit higher, 
> flush with the flat of the ramps. I've had them like this for as long as 
> they've been installed and haven't had any discomfort. Quite like the grip. 
>
> On Friday, July 28, 2023 at 12:52:43 PM UTC-4 wls...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello all, 
>>
>> After pining over Rivendells for years, I recently purchased a used 
>> Atlantis and have been loving it. It came with the TRP Ultra-Ergo Brake 
>> Levers that Riv sells, and was set up as shown in the photos on Riv's 
>> website. I couldn't get used to the slope of the levers being so vertical, 
>> and was experiencing some wrist pain when using them, so when I recently 
>> did a bar swap for some wider bars, I adjusted them to be more level. 
>> However, that also feels a bit odd, and I can tell they were not really 
>> designed to be mounted that way on the drop bars. I will likely adjust them 
>> again somewhere in the middle from where they are now, and how they were 
>> when I first bought the bike, but curious to know if anyone else has a 
>> similar experience with these, or if I should just raise them back up and 
>> see if I get used to it. Photo of current bike set-up is below. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_3322.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Experience with TRP Ultra-Ergo Brake Levers

[William Schaefer]

AWentzell - Great tip! That’s probably the ticket, although I did angle 
them up a bit from where I have now and it feels alright. May invest in 
some wedges though to help with the angle.



On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 10:14:05 AM UTC-4 awen...@gmail.com wrote:

> These levers come from TRP with a little plastic wedge piece that sits 
> under the top of the clamp and causes the the lever to rotate down a bit 
> when installed. You can install the levers with or without the wedge, 
> depending on how you prefer them to be angled. It sounds like you might 
> want them angled down more than they are. Do you have these wedges? If not, 
> you can buy them from TRP separately for around $10 for a pair, IIRC. Or 
> see if Riv has some in a bin.
>
> On Friday, July 28, 2023 at 12:52:43 PM UTC-4 wls...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello all, 
>>
>> After pining over Rivendells for years, I recently purchased a used 
>> Atlantis and have been loving it. It came with the TRP Ultra-Ergo Brake 
>> Levers that Riv sells, and was set up as shown in the photos on Riv's 
>> website. I couldn't get used to the slope of the levers being so vertical, 
>> and was experiencing some wrist pain when using them, so when I recently 
>> did a bar swap for some wider bars, I adjusted them to be more level. 
>> However, that also feels a bit odd, and I can tell they were not really 
>> designed to be mounted that way on the drop bars. I will likely adjust them 
>> again somewhere in the middle from where they are now, and how they were 
>> when I first bought the bike, but curious to know if anyone else has a 
>> similar experience with these, or if I should just raise them back up and 
>> see if I get used to it. Photo of current bike set-up is below. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_3322.jpg]
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno

[William Lindsay]

I run 8 of 10 on a Grand Bois 120mm cassette hub. My typical setup is to
start with a 12-30 Ultegra 10 speed cassette. The largest 3 cogs are on a
carrier (24-27-30) and I keep all of those. The other 7 cogs are all loose
and they are 12-13-14-15-17-19-21. I remove the 14 and one spacer. I remove
the 17 and 19 and one spacer and add an 18.  What I’m left with is:

12-13-15-18-21-24-27-30

That’s not the only way to go about it, but it’s what I’ve done so far. I
use 10-speed indexed down tube shifters and a 10-speed rear der. I just
turn the lower limit to block out two clicks.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca

On Sat, Jul 15, 2023 at 4:10 PM Peter Adler  wrote:

> Paging Eric Marth...this is basically what I was suggesting as a freehub
> option for a 70s steel frameset, avoiding the cold-set to 130mm.
>
> Bill, I take it that you had to use narrower spacers than standard, and
> use friction shifting (or 10-speed indexed with the high and low shifter
> positions locked out). Am I close? Or did the regular 10 speed spacers do
> the job? Do two cogs + spacers really equal 10mm? They were the riveted
> back two cogs, yes? Is there a Shimano splined 10 speed cassette available
> with all loose cogs?
>
> Peter Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 10:33:43 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> …or use a 120mm rear wheel and have a full on geared bike. I’ve fit 8 cogs
> with “10-speed” spacing onto a 120mm cassette hub from Grand Bois. A 2x8
> RoadUno would be pretty funny.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno

[William Lindsay]

…or use a 120mm rear wheel and have a full on geared bike. I’ve fit 8 cogs
with “10-speed” spacing onto a 120mm cassette hub from Grand Bois. A 2x8
RoadUno would be pretty funny.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca


On Fri, Jul 14, 2023 at 1:27 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> You could singlespeed an existing frame, but this one is designed so you
> DON'T need a tensioner for it if you're definitely-fer-sure going to stick
> with one gear.
>
> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 9:11:05 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> My area is way too hilly and I am way too old to entertain a single speed
>> (or two or three speed) anyway so its not something I am interested in BUT
>> I was still curious. If its designed to use a tensioner then why not just
>> single speed one of their existing bikes?
>>
>> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 10:19:37 AM UTC-4 velomann wrote:
>>
>>> Correction - not track dropouts; horizontal facing forward (I think).
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 7:15:07 AM UTC-7 velomann wrote:
>>>
 Grant wants folks to be able to run a double crankset and front
 derailleur if they want. It's an odd duck for sure; 120mm rear spacing with
 track dropouts but a derailleur hanger. And there might be a braze-on for
 running a shift cable for a front derailleur if they can't find a good
 bolt-on option.
 Wouldn't be my choice but I'm getting one anyway ;-)

 Mike M

 On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 5:28:39 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Question about thatif it requires a string tensioner then what
> makes it a singlespeed specific frame? He said it had horizontal dropouts
> which is what would typically fix the need for a tensioner.
>
> On Thursday, July 13, 2023 at 11:19:40 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> The PLP interview mentioned the samples coming late this month, and
>> the production frames probably pushed over new years now.  I have to say,
>> when Grant said it's essentially a singlespeed Homer, I became suddenly
>> interested.
>>
>> On Friday, 7 July 2023 at 09:44:49 UTC-7 Edwin W wrote:
>>
>>> The mid-May Blahg did say December in purple and dark orange. Or
>>> purple and Sergio green.
>>>
>>> We will see!
>>>
>>> Love the idea of it,
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 5:40:16 PM UTC-5 penne...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 The mid-May Blahg
 has em
 slated for December in purple and dark orange.
 Mack in Alberta

 On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 4:21:05 PM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The latest update they published was in February. saying they'd
> ship put of Taiwan in August/September.  That same email update said 
> there
> would be a lugged Susie shipping in June and Platypus in July.  The 
> Susie's
> don't seem to be here yet, so maybe push everything back a little.  
> October?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 1:54:59 PM UTC-7 Dick Combs wrote:
>
>> Anyone got any news/updates on availability?
>
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[RBW] FS: 59cm Legolas Full Bike

[William Henderson]

This is my dream bike for adventure riding in Oregon. As you probably know, 
these don't come up very often – I sought after one for many years before I 
finally found the frame right here on this list. 

I have built the bike up slowly, acquiring exactly the parts I imagined 
would complete a perfect build. This includes:
- Velocity quill rims laced to a Shutter Precision dynamo front hub & 
titanium body Dura Ace fh-7900 rear
- Busch Mueller IQ-x front lamp, micro rear
- Paul Minimoto brakes
- Nitto soba bars with TRP RRL SR levers
- Mix of Sun, Shimano, Nitto parts
- Brooks Swallow Titanium saddle

Alas, soon after I finally got it dialed in to perfection, my whole life 
changed. I now need to sell this bike, and I hope it will go to someone who 
loves it as much as I do. Asking $3400 plus shipping from Portland, Oregon.

Photos and full build details are available here:
https://quicklywilliam.notion.site/Rivendell-Legolas-93889153504547b79fba9a124170c60d

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[RBW] Re: Nice Rivendell, Goodrich and Sevens for Sale

['William Watson' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I can’t help with the story of the Goodrich, but I can say I have a 
randonneur that he made and it’s lovely, definitely my favorite ride. I 
agree the triple and braze-ons for a rear rack but no low rider fronts or 
3rd water bottle boss seem to mean sport touring. I bet it’s awesome.

Curt’s no longer building frames, but I bet if you emailed him with the 
serial number he could let you know the dimensions and the build 
intentions. Also, to decipher if it’s under his brand or riv, mine has CG 
in the serial number. So that might be a good, simple clue. 

Not sure if I can help more, but it’s  cool bike and there’s not many out 
there.

Will Watson
Minneapolis

On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 5:42:22 PM UTC-6 LBleriot wrote:

> I own a root beer Ram, but it has S couplers and was repainted by 
> Bilenky by its prior owner.  
>
> On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 6:16:16 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Yes, I was trying to guess at what kind of custom Curt Goodrich had 
>> built. You're probably right that it's a sport tourer; I've always liked 
>> his 'own brand' work and would love to score one someday. 
>>
>> On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 2:56:45 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> I'm not super clear on what you are asking me to guess about regarding 
>>> the Goodrich.  I don't know anything about Goodrich models, or if there is 
>>> such a thing as a Goodrich model.  If they are all custom, then my guess is 
>>> that the bike pictured with Goodrich decals is in fact a frame made by Curt 
>>> Goodrich.  The lugs look "early Rivish", and I know Curt Goodrich made a 
>>> lot of the early custom Rivendells.  Maybe it's an early Riv custom, Curt 
>>> made it, and then the buyer wanted Curt to repaint it, with Goodrich 
>>> decals.  
>>>
>>> It doesn't look like a cyclocross race bike to me, like a Legolas, for 
>>> example.  It looks more like a sport-touring rig, like maybe it's trying to 
>>> be a lighter version of an early 2000s 700c Atlantis.  
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>> On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 12:57:56 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 What's your guess on the Goodrich, Bill? Cyclocrosser? 

 On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 12:49:11 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> There is definitely some detective work to be done on these bikes, 
> since the seller doesn't seem to know anything about them.
>
> The Rambouillet looks off, but in a way I think I can guess at 
> explaining.  Ram's were by definition 700c bikes with medium reach brakes 
> and fit 700x32 tires or thereabouts.  This one has very chubby tires and 
> long reach brakes with pads at the very ends of the slots.  That makes me 
> suspect that is a 650B converted Ram.  Rams came in even cm sizes, and 
> that 
> head tube height makes me guess it is maybe a 62cm.  It's maybe a 60cm,  
> Almost definitely not a 58.  
>
> Assuming the orange Rivendell Custom is around the same size, those 
> are probably 26" wheels.  That's my guess
>
> The dark grey cantilever Hilsen is sort of off-menu, because it has 
> cantilevers.  The wheels also look smallish.  My guess is that was 
> actually 
> the largest Canti-'Luki (Saluki), which would have been a 62cm.  Then, 
> when 
> the owner wanted a repaint, the Saluki decals weren't around, but Hilsen 
> ones were.  The Saluki became the 650B Hilsen around 2010.  
>
> Those are lovely lovely bikes.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, January 23, 2023 at 9:42:52 AM UTC-8 mmille...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey all. A local STL fellow just posted some bikes 
>> 
>>  
>> for sale locally. I just talked with him and am going to go look at 
>> them. 
>> There are a couple frames I'm not familiar with. Since this is where all 
>> the experts are, is there anything I should be looking for? I assume the 
>> grey AHH and the brown Ram are custom paint jobs. Is the orange one 
>> likely 
>> custom or an early Riv? And thoughts on the Goodrich? They all look to 
>> be 
>> fairly similar builds, and I'm wondering if nothing differentiates when 
>> I 
>> ride them, if I should consider anything else before buying (assuming 
>> the 
>> boss OKs it. Ha). I do see the brakes are different on the AHH models. 
>> Thanks, everyone.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roaduno Dropouts

[William Lindsay]

I (for one) will expect 120mm O.L.D. The one and only reason to move to
135mm is so folks can use the wheels they have laying around for free.

120mm is the right O.L.D. for an actual single speed-OR-a modest
multispeed.

On Fri, Dec 9, 2022 at 11:42 AM Shoji Takahashi 
wrote:

> Hi JL:
> Hooded dropouts like these are sometimes referred to as Breezer-style, as
> Joe Breeze used them in his MTB. (IIRC, they predate Breeze, though.)
>
> Hooded style has advantages for builders and Riv: this one can be used at
> many different angles. Vertical dropouts, like on my Toyo AHH, have a fixed
> angle. As the frame size changes, the chain-stay to seat-stay angle needs
> to change (or the frame designer will have to compromise by changing stay
> lengths).
>
> Hooded style also can be welded (and brazed, I assume), which might offer
> flexibility in manufacture. Might permit a cheaper frame-construction
> option? The width probably offers a stiffness advantage, but I don't know
> how significant or important that might be.
>
> shoji
> arlington ma
>
> On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 11:20:39 AM UTC-5 J L wrote:
>
>> Can someone tell me the purpose of the hoods on dropouts like these? They
>> are referred to as Breezer style, right?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[William Lindsay]

Skewers or not, I’ll go ahead and take them. I might convert that rear to
an even narrower OLD. And I my convert both hubs to bolt on :)

Please do me a favor and DM me. I’m using my phone and it’s just allowing
me to reply to the whole rbw group.

BL in EC

On Sun, Oct 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM William Lindsay  wrote:

> Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito Ca
>
> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella 
> wrote:
>
>> Shifters are sold, hub is still available.
>>
>> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25
>> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
>> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it I’ll
>> include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition BUT, the
>> hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a freewheel
>> hub
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I
>>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which was
>>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. It
>>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder
>>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear bought
>>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>
>>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters.
>>>> Clean and very nice
>>>> $55 + shipping.
>>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub.
>>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced.
>>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping.
>>>>
>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com
>>>>
>>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option.
>>>>
>>>> Thank you
>>>> Ray
>>>>
>>> --
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>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[William Lindsay]

Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca

On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella  wrote:

> Shifters are sold, hub is still available.
>
> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25
> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it I’ll
> include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition BUT, the
> hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a freewheel
> hub
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>
>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I
>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which was
>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. It
>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder
>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear bought
>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters.
>>> Clean and very nice
>>> $55 + shipping.
>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub.
>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced.
>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping.
>>>
>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com
>>>
>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option.
>>>
>>> Thank you
>>> Ray
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Seeking Advice - Shimano 9 Speed Downtube Shifters

[William Lindsay]

I have a set of used 9sp down tube Dura Ace shifters

I bought them when it seemed like a good idea because they were getting
more rare and expensive.

Corwin, if you still don’t have a solution in place next to week, I’ll be
near my stash and can work something out with you.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Ca

On Wed, Oct 12, 2022 at 6:43 PM Ian A  wrote:

> Re the Sunrace option. I noticed SjS Cycles in the UK carry these. They
> also have a good selection of square taper bottom brackets.
>
> I have always found SJS to be completely honest about what they carry, so
> you could email them and request an opinion. Reviews on the SJS site for
> the 8 and 9 speed shifters seem positive. The 8 speed version are
> particularly low priced.
>
> IanA Alberta Canada
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 3:15:46 AM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Ah, interesting - amd I didn't know.  Here's  a set of concave baseplates
>> that would presumably be missing from the used thumby/lever combo, which
>> could hopefully complete that option.  (The Pauls have the "square" milled
>> -in.
>>
>> Longer levers are nicer than bar end levers anyway, which would be an
>> issue with the microshift option I guess.
>>
>> There appears to be a Sunrace-branded option available, but I have no
>> idea about quality.
>>
>> Concave plates on ebay:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/324819072038?chn=ps=1=1=711-117182-37290-0=2=101=324819072038=1263104806006=m==9029376==14859008593=130497710760=pla-1263104806006=9300678=116345380=Cj0KCQjwy5maBhDdARIsAMxrkw0q0Dhcv0k34aQiah-q4Qeknx178WIqYsV5rHL0qlA8P4Zyyj_2oUgaAsr8EALw_wcB
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 12:39:25 AM UTC-6 Mr. Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Keith, the Dura Ace bar end shifters bolt right on and look identical
>>> BUT the rear shifter pods are different.  The rear bar end shifters cable
>>> track begins further away from the shifter cable vs a down tube shifter
>>> pod.  What this means is after the 5th or 6th gear, the shifter cable is no
>>> longer guided by the groove.  If one is handy with a Dremel or file, you
>>> could extend the groove closer to where the shifter cable enters the pod.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 2:11:59 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>>>

 I was first going to say  what mr ray did:  I'm happy with the quality
 of the microshift shifters that I have.  They're thumbie mounts, but the
 lever shape really seems to be intended as bar ends, so they probably work
 ok in downtube mode too.  Easiiest thing though would just be to get dura
 ace bar end shifter from Rivendell.  They're in stock and bolt right on as
 downtube shifters.
 On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:39:21 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net wrote:

> Hi Keith -
>
> I've ruled out 10 and 11 speed as I want to be able to swap wheels
> between bikes and have several bikes with 9 speed setups.
>
> And I don't care if I have a friction option. Not sure how that
> impacts things unless I was interested in brifters (which I am not).
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Corwin
> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 6:18:13 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Just thinking out loud and clarifying before I suggest something
>> wrong:
>>
>> If you use 10 speed shifters and want indexing, you'd have to use the
>> alternate cable attachment hack, right?
>>
>> 9 speed era and later, the dura ace cable pull was the same as other
>> shimano products, so you don't necessarily "need" dura ace, right?
>>
>> You don't care if you have a friction option, right?
>>
>> You've ruled out 10 or 11 speed altogether?  I understand if you
>> have.  I kerp doing the same thing but, honestly, it's often easier and
>> cheaper to find good 10 and 11 speed stuff these days.  It's just not as
>> pretty.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 5:34:43 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings -
>>>
>>> About 18 months ago, my house was burglarized. Among the items
>>> stolen was my Rivendell custom. I am now trying to replace the custom. 
>>> The
>>> frame is now at Joe Bell's waiting for paint.
>>>
>>> I have been trying to find Shimano 9 speed downtube shift levers for
>>> a while. I missed out on a couple huge batches offered on EBay. I have 
>>> seen
>>> three options recently:
>>>
>>> 1) A set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube levers mated to Paul thumbies
>>> on EBay for 150 GBP. This seems like a potential win. Buy the levers
>>> (possibly at something below the asking price), sell the Paul Thumbies 
>>> and
>>> come out with a considerable savings.
>>>
>>> 2) There is a set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters in
>>> Albuquerque for sale at $160. The shop will only deliver locally. I am
>>> willing to pay someone local to the shop to facilitate delivery and send
>>> the shifters to me.
>>>

[RBW] Re: WTB: Marks Rack

[William Humphrey]

James-i have a new still in package mark's rack that i am willing to sell. 
i can send photos tomorrow if you are interested,
Best, Bill
Viroqua, WI 

On Monday, September 12, 2022 at 2:20:02 PM UTC-5 James wrote:

> Anyone have one of these they are willing to sell?  Just barely missed it 
> in the most recent FS post.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Randonneuring Bike

[William Lindsay]

Nikko has gotta hear more about how I categorize bikes. He said “ i'm happy
to treat a cyclocross bike as a gravel bike any day. “

There’s nothing wrong with treating a cyclocross race bike as a gravel
bike. There’s nothing wrong with using your cyclocross race bike as a
gravel bike or riding it on a gravel ride. Similarly one can take their
cyclocross race bike on a road ride or a brevet or a commute. Those uses
don’t change the fact that the Rivendell Legolas is a cyclocross race bike.
That’s all.

Gravel Bike means a broad spectrum of things in 2022.  For me the main
differences between a gravel bike and a cyclocross race bike are the gravel
bike has a lower BB, wider tire clearance, a longer front center, and a
slacker STA (in my book). A cyclocross race bike is also set up to be
carried in cyclocross races.

Bill Lindsay
Somewhere near the border of Germany and the Netherlands.

On Thu, Aug 25, 2022 at 10:42 PM Nikko in Oakland 
wrote:

> Bill (via Toshi)
> Off topic, but I gotta hear more about this delineation between a racing
> cyclocross bike and an aggressive gravel bike. I have my own thoughts on
> the same topic, but i'm happy to treat a cyclocross bike as a gravel bike
> any day.
>
> On topic, I was dithering pretty heavily on whether or not my Legolas was
> going to be my brevet bike or not, and decided against it for some of the
> same reasons Bill mentioned. A bit too responsive (great for short rides
> and hard corners), and it's set up slightly more aggressive than my past
> rando bikes. I was initially hunting down a 60cm Rambouillet for brevets
> and commuting, but ended up stumbling upon a good deal on a Boulder Brevet
> that is literally the perfect bike for me.
>
> My two cents... Ram, AHH, Sam, Roadini, Roadeo are your better bets for
> rando, from best to least best (mostly because of luggage options and the
> such). At Del Puerto 200km 2021, I did see someone on a really sick ruby or
> red Atlantis.
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 4:08:10 PM UTC-7 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
>> Just 1 bit of advice for the weight in a front bag & saddle bag for a
>> Rivendell, I remember from a Grant P blog
>>
>> Put the heavy items, tools, tubes, extra clothes, extra food, in the
>> saddlebag .Put LIGHT items in the front bag, food until the next
>> control *and* items you will want to get while moving *or* not
>> dismounting.
>>
>> Since the Riv models have higher wheel flop (due to higher trail),
>> keeping the load light upfront minimizes the effects of high wheel flop.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 4:52:59 PM UTC-4 Dick Combs wrote:
>>
>>> Looking for opinions/thoughts on the best Riv for Brevets, 200-400K
>>> rides. Looking for current models as well as older models. Thanks
>>
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Re: [RBW] The joy of winter riding, and how do you keep your toes warm?

[William deRosset]

>Will: Can you describe, or give make and model, of your dedicated winter 
bike shoes?

Dear Patrick,

Not directed to me, and I have an answer:

Assuming you use SPD pedals, I recommend Lake MXZ304s. Not inexpensive.

I actually own the now-discontinued MXZ303, which differs very slightly 
from the 304: they relocated the ratcheting dial closure to make it less 
likely to be bumped a couple of years ago.  When new, they were overkill at 
peri-freezing temperatures. Now, with time (I got them sometime around 
2012), heavy seasonal use, and my own advancing age/worsening Reynauds, I 
use them starting around 40degF and will eventually get chilly feet below 
about 12degF when otherwise properly outfitted. I use chemical warmers for 
rides at or below about 10degF as a result. I wear a 46 wide and find 
plenty of room for my (low-volume but pretty wide) forefoot and a pair of 
thick ragg wool socks. 

 Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO


On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a Legolas from threadless to threaded/quill

[William deRosset]

Dear Tom,

Before you break out the tooling and cut threads onto the existing steerer 
(technically possible but not easy to do well, and you'll be cutting the 
steerer), measure the OD and ID of the steerer to ensure that the OD is 1" 
(25.4mm) and the ID is 7/8" (22.2mm) . There are different versions of 
steerer tube for 1" threadless and some are not compatible with being 
threaded--they are too thin-gauge.

You could have Mark build you a fork for the bike. Or Rivendell would 
probably order one for you if you ask.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 6:16:32 AM UTC-6, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
> This is a great bike, and not so easily found; and with the help of a 
> local friend from this list, the cockpit fits me well at the very limit of 
> spacers.  The steerer was cut too short to my liking by the preDear Tvious 
> owner, and I am frustrated that the stem is not adjustable, a feature I 
> enjoy with quill stems.  I think the frame was made by Mark Nobilette.  Has 
> anyone converted a threadless steerer to threaded?  What do you think?  
> Appreciative, as ever, of this community.   --Tom in Miami 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

I apologize for comparing a 47-584 to a 2.2" tire vs the 2.1" described. 
Maths is tricky!

47mm to 53-584 is about 1.27X by area, a little more than half the area 
difference between a 23 and a 28-622 tire area.

Best Regards,

Will

On Monday, August 10, 2020 at 12:15:21 PM UTC-6, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear Steve,
>
> 47 to 55-584 is is about  1.37X by area and 1.38X by volume. 
>
> Compare to a 23mm to 28-622 tire 1.48X by area and 1.5X by volume. I 
> definitely notice the difference between a 23 and a 28, and between a 28 
> and a 32 (using the same tire casing and adjusting the tire pressure as 
> appropriate). 
>
> You'll sure notice the difference if one is pumping up the tires for 
> consistent drop. I find for road use that the tire pressure that works best 
> for handling and riding out of the saddle etc tends to offset the change in 
> very wide tires (I submit that 47-55mm tires on the road are very wide; 
> your definitions may vary) and that the difference is not as prounounced 
> above some threshold (for me it is the 38mm to 42-584 change or the 30mm to 
> 35-622 differences).
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Will
> Willliam M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
> On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 1:13:40 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> On 8/7/20 3:03 PM, Jason Fuller wrote: 
>> > While I should take my own advice when I say this, I think the 
>> > difference between 47c and 2.1" is almost all in one's head 
>>
>>
>> The difference between 47 mm ( "47c" is fingernails screeching on a 
>> blackboard) and 2.1" is a whopping 5.3mm.   5.3mm is more than the 
>> difference between a 23mm tire and a 28mm tire; more than the difference 
>> between a 28mm tire and a 32mm tire; more than the difference between a 
>> 38mm tire and a 42mm tire.  Those are non-trivial differences, and are 
>> instantly noticeable when riding.   "Almost all in one's head?"  I doubt 
>> it... 
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Palincsar 
>> Alexandria, Virginia 
>> USA 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[William deRosset]

Dear Steve,

47 to 55-584 is is about  1.37X by area and 1.38X by volume. 

Compare to a 23mm to 28-622 tire 1.48X by area and 1.5X by volume. I 
definitely notice the difference between a 23 and a 28, and between a 28 
and a 32 (using the same tire casing and adjusting the tire pressure as 
appropriate). 

You'll sure notice the difference if one is pumping up the tires for 
consistent drop. I find for road use that the tire pressure that works best 
for handling and riding out of the saddle etc tends to offset the change in 
very wide tires (I submit that 47-55mm tires on the road are very wide; 
your definitions may vary) and that the difference is not as prounounced 
above some threshold (for me it is the 38mm to 42-584 change or the 30mm to 
35-622 differences).

Best Regards,

Will
Willliam M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 1:13:40 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 8/7/20 3:03 PM, Jason Fuller wrote: 
> > While I should take my own advice when I say this, I think the 
> > difference between 47c and 2.1" is almost all in one's head 
>
>
> The difference between 47 mm ( "47c" is fingernails screeching on a 
> blackboard) and 2.1" is a whopping 5.3mm.   5.3mm is more than the 
> difference between a 23mm tire and a 28mm tire; more than the difference 
> between a 28mm tire and a 32mm tire; more than the difference between a 
> 38mm tire and a 42mm tire.  Those are non-trivial differences, and are 
> instantly noticeable when riding.   "Almost all in one's head?"  I doubt 
> it... 
>
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar 
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[William deRosset]

Dear David,

The least expensive thing to do is to double your money: fold it in half 
and put it back in your pocket, and you have two lovely bikes there. I'd 
suggest you resist the urge to shuffle bikes just 'cause.

If it is a vote, I'd go with the following process:
1. What bike that you currently own appeals most to you? Does it meet your 
current (not aprirational) uses for the bike?
2. Keep that one. 
3. Sell the other if you must. 
4. If you're curious about other bikes, get the object of interest and ride 
it enough to wear off the new bike glamour. This may take years if it is a 
really cool bike.
5. Iterate.

I do like the Redwood setup a lot. 

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO
On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 11:59:32 AM UTC-6, David B wrote:
>
> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
> bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
> don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.
>
> With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
> Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
> Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
> setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
> angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).
>
> I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
> 'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
> I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
> I'll be keeping.
>
> I see potential options as:
> 1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
> 2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
> 3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
> 4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
> 5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes
>
> Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the 
> Redwood it'll not be a bargain sale.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
> ~94pbh.
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Derailer / Shifter Math for my Custom

[William deRosset]

I can report that a SRAM 11s road setup shifts both Shimano 11s cogs and 
Campagnolo 11s cogs with equal aplomb.

 It also shifts the 10s era 53/39 campagnolo Record chainrings, though one must 
carefully read and follow the Yaw front derailleur setup instructions. This 
ain't your childhood Nuovo Record, and it isn't entirely intuitive.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

[William deRosset]

Dear Andrew,

You have found your huckleberry, but given your weight and design constraints, 
I would also suggest a UJB designed around 27"(28-630) wheels and repurposed to 
700c (32-622). Or something like a Boulder Bicycle Road Sport ( which would not 
be front-loading). 

The UJBs will have BSC threading (or can be easily modified to do so). If you 
pick one on the high end of the parts range while still built around 27" wheels 
it will have a 531c tubing spec, which was the standard for fun and lively 
mid-sized bikes since the late 1930's. They will typically have eyelets for 
fenders.

The Boulder Bicycle Road Sport is now unobtainium new, but was designed around 
the basic sporting needs you describe (note that I helped design it). 32mm 
tires, flexible tubing for lighter riders, and 57-reach brakes; fork rake 
bumped up for the wider tires. It was not designed for fenders. Everyone 
involved with that project ended up with one in their regular rotation. 

Mine was a welded prototype, and is my most-ridden machine in these CoViD-19 
no-commute-to-work-for-me times. It has served as a racing bike, a cx bike, my 
general road machine, and handles gravel and 32mm tires with aplomb. Mine is 
not front loaded, but Mike Kone straps a giant Berthoud to his and rides hard 
with it. 

They are around on the used market in a silver-brazed longpoint lugged version 
with nicely-thinned Cinelli-drilled lugs. Mine is welded, and I kinda regret 
not getting one with lugs after the prototype came out so well.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Brooks Brown v. Black

[William deRosset]

I vote for riding the black saddle until it looks brown. I have one Berthoud 
saddle that is approaching antique brown via usage, and a Brooks Pro that is 
there. The well used but not abused look is the best one.



Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Day Ride Kit

[William deRosset]

Day ride? There are day rides, then DAY Rides.

For a hour or few, on roads (paved or otherwise), in summer weather, here on 
the northern Front Range, I will bring a water bottle or two, my wallet, short 
finger gloves, a lightweight long sleeve wool jersey and lycra shorts, a spare 
tubular, sealant and valve core wrench, Bic lighter, and a pocketknife. A bike 
and frame pump. Cycling cap and sunnies.

For more of an all-day outing, I am likely to be going into more remote areas, 
at higher altitude, with fewer opportunities for assistance. DP has described 
the high country's weather well. It is good to be reasonably prepared.

To the above I add leg warmers, toe covers, rain claw mitts, a rain jacket 
(usually just a race cape for summer conditions), an ear band, long-finger 
glove liners. 

Food makes an appearance—some dried fruit or a sandwich, wet wipes, mixed salt 
electrolytes, water purification tabs. 

I also switch bikes so that I have fenders, lights, and a front handlebar bag, 
which, due to how my bikes are set up, in turn necessitates bringing two tubes 
and a patch kit vs a spare tubular.

The tools get more extensive: tire levers, 3-4-5mm allen keys, Park 
multi-wrench with 8mm allen, folding pliers, a chain tool. Spoke key.

Gaffer's tape. Spare chain links and fiberfix spoke. A needle and thread. A 
headlamp. A clif bar (The aluminized plastic wrapper makes a functional tire 
boot, and if you need to boot a tire you should have a snack while doing so).  
Chain oil.

A camera—usually my phone. My regular multifocal glasses vs awesome shades.

For longer rides I add a map,  bonk rations, chamois cream, a toothbrush, 
floss, Rx meds, and basic first aid stuff. A contingency plan and itinerary 
filed with Responsible Parties.

For camping I add a saddlebag with  sleeping bag, air mattress, ground cloth 
and tarp, bug repellent, a puffy jacket and long pants, sun hat,  and 
(sometimes) cooking gear/food/bear bag. I will also add a container of dr 
bronner's soap.

Best Regards,

Will

William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunglasses

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

Safety glasses in the usa are either trivex or much more commonly 
polycarbonate, both of which block uv. Not much else will pass the impact 
standards, apparently.

The sports glasses folks all have proprietary brand names for these two 
materials.

Fashion/rx glasses may be made of other materials and may or may mot block uv 
rays. 

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[William deRosset]

> Re: association of tubulars with "roadies." These days I don't know what a 
> typical tubular rider would be except perhaps a   > 
> professional racer.
--

Hi, All,

Old. Tubular users are all old because nobody younger than I am (50's) learned 
to use them and stuck with them long enough for the hassle factor to get 
manageable. Or they're professional racers with old DS's.



Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Firt Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: The Sound of Silence - Just Ride Quietly

[William deRosset]

Dear Marty,

Interestingly enough, none of my fixed wheels were quieter than bikes with 
freewheels (while pedaling). I value my fixed wheel machine for its overall 
quiet simplicity, ease of maintenance, lovely lines--but the light crackle 
of the 1/8" chain over the crankset cannot be denied when on smooth 
pavement.  Two of my geared machines are actually quieter (when pedaling). 
Once coasting, of course, no freewheel machine need apply for the 
silent-running race. Shimano freewheels and cassette hub bodies win the 
quiet award there, and I think there is a roller-clutch (onyx?) that is 
very close to completely silent. 

proper fat tubulars sing on pavement. The quietest tires I have used are 
the Stampede Pass tires.

There is a tire noise hierarchy on pavement, anyway:

Sing,
Hiss,
Hum,
Growl,
Buzz,
Rumble, and
Clatter.

Unless you're driving studs, no tire should clatter.

I try to avoid tires that Growl, Buzz, Rumble, or Clatter for paved 
road-going use. Life is too short. 

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 1:12:58 PM UTC-6, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
wrote:
>
> Might be a first for this topic. I was out on my All Rounder this weekend, 
> a local rail trail that has sections of pavement here and there. My current 
> set up is one speed, using a Paul Melvin matched up to an eight speed 
> cogset on an XT cassette hub out back - one of the middle cogs, (not sure 
> which) and a single TA zephyr ring up front - a 36 I think. Anyway, one of 
> the best things about biking for me, and a goal of mine in general, is to 
> ride as quietly as possible. Similar to sculling on flat water, which I 
> have done my share of, the feeling of self propulsion in total silence 
> intrigues and pleases me. 
>
> On gravel, the Rivendell makes very little sound while pedaling or not, 
> just a light crackle/hiss from the tires. (700c Big Ben's in this case) But 
> on pavement, damn if all sound doesn't evaporate entirely! I love that! 
> Granted, at 64  - and having played drums for many years in my youth - my 
> hearing is diminished somewhat to begin with. Regardless, my mission to 
> ride silently appears to be achieved. Having said that, there may be room 
> to improve. I suppose a fixed gear hub would eliminate any chance of pawl 
> noise, and smooth tires may take it down a notch too. I have a White ENO 
> flipflop hub laced to a rim that would work, so that may be my next 
> experiment. 
>
> Any other ideas for silent running are welcome. 
>
> Marty
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: On Topic / Off Topic

[William Henderson]

What I observed was a really reasonable, civil topic highlighting BLM and an 
fundraising effort that Jan is making with Bicycle Quarterly. Maybe I missed 
something inflammatory in it, but the email is now lost (along with the link ( 
https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-small-thing-bq-fund-drive-to-benefit-black-lives-matter/
 ) ).

Like others, I want this to remain a civil community. However, I find the 
judgement call about what is "on topic" problematic. If this is about civility, 
let's focus on that and not muddy the waters with any other areas for 
subjectivity.

Here are some different actions that could be taken:

- Write a code of conduct for the group and post it as a sticky post. Be clear 
about what constitutes uncivil behavior, what kinds of topics are explicitly 
disallowed, and what the consequences are when someone breaks the rules.

- When it comes to deleting threads, I think it's really important to preserve 
the thread so that people can see how the code is being enforced. This provides 
accountability in both directions. The obvious exception would be for threads 
or messages that are hateful or abusive. I'd suggest a policy like this:

* When someone posts something uncivil, it will be deleted.

* When someone posts something about a topic that is explicitly disallowed, the 
thread will be locked (but not deleted) along with a reminder about the code of 
conduct.

* When someone posts something that isn't uncivil seems like it could be taking 
the thread in that direction, the thread will be locked (but not deleted) along 
with a personal statement from the moderator about them making the call to shut 
it down in order to protect the community sense of safety and civility.

Again, this is ultimately your community Jim and you have the power & 
responsibility to make the call here. The rest of us have the power & 
responsibility to make sure that we are participating in a community that is 
compatible with our core values.

William

William
Sent from my iPhone

On Wed, Jun 03, 2020 at 9:42 AM, Philip Williamson < 
philip.william...@gmail.com > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your thoughtful post, Franklyn. I agree that race is an
> in-bounds topic here, but name-calling is unacceptable and
> counter-persuasive. I’ve seen more people bend away from their reflexive
> answers in the last few days than ever before on the internet, and only in
> response to kindness while explaining a different perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m sorry that stuff happens to you. It sounds much worse than my
> experience with people in cars who feel I’m a just target for being on
> “their” roads. I’m glad you persist in riding. I also particularly enjoy
> your photos of Berkeley views.
> 
> 
> 
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] On Topic / Off Topic

[William!]

Jim,
You deleted a post that linked to a fundraiser for BLM being organized by a 
member of *our* community. If you want to define that as out of bounds, you can 
count me out of *your* community. 

William

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Re: [RBW] Sunglasses

[William deRosset]

Dear Leah,

Iuse these in a sunglass version as well. I think they cost about $8, and are 
available with brown/bronze lenses, shooter's lenses (amber/yellow), and grey.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Sunglasses

[William deRosset]

Well that was when I decided I wanted clear riding glasses for night. I ordered 
Tifosi from Amazon but was really disappointed.

Dear Leah,

On the opposite side of the economic spectrum, may I suggest Jackson Safety 
Nemesis safety glasses? As long as you have a relatively upright position on 
the bike, they work very well. I personally prefer their fit to my Oakleys. 

Polycarbonate, reasonable optical quality, fewer than five bucks online, eight 
to ten from your local welding supply shop.

https://www.amazon.com/JACKSON-25679-Nemesis-Safety-Universal/dp/B009SB8RWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1=jackson+safety+nemesis+clear=1590975540=8-5

They are nearly-ubiquitous in the trades, and there are many lens options.

Buy three for the off chance you need them for an after-dark ride and store in 
your luggage?

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Best 1 - 11 setup

[William deRosset]

Dear Robert,

Re: brand choices for 1x gears with a bar-end shifter: SRAM Force 1 and 
matching indexed bar end. 

It has a wide-range clutch rear derailleur designed specifically for a no front 
derailleur condition.  I use the integrated lever version, and it works well.  
The derailleur looks more mad max than Jetsons, but the future isn't what we 
expected either. I believe Shimano also offers 1x specific derailleurs, but 
they weren't compatible with bar emds. This may have changed with the GRX group 
release

I would also suggest using a narrow-wide chainring or chainguards with a 1x11 
setup. That consideration may affect your crank choice.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Best 1 - 11 setup

[William deRosset]

Dear RG,

Also, I assume you are a member of the DC randonneurs group. They're super 
helpful and can really dial in your needs well, as they're on the scene, doing 
what you do. My time in VA was in SW VA, and I remember short, steep walls and 
legbreakers a'plenty..

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Best 1 - 11 setup

[William deRosset]

Dear RG,

What do you use now? Is the low low enough? Do you never spin out the high?

 If so, then you have bounded your needs. Work out the gear range of that setup 
(ignoring whatever gears you never use), using your wheel size. Then you can 
transfer that range to the 1x setup by assigning the low gear based on your 
preferred low and checking against your needed high.

For example, let's say that you want/need a 27 gear inch low, a 110gear inch 
high, and aren't too fussy about the intermediate steps. 

Assuming a 27 outer diameter wheel (more or less a 32-622), you would need a 
1:1 gear ratio to get that low. A 42 in front would get that with an 11:42 rear 
cogset. Now, let's check the high gear: 42/11(27")= 103 gear inches so a little 
shy of your required 110in high gear. (I would be fine with this; ymmv). You'd 
have to go to a larger chainring and larger big rear cog to get there. A 44t 
front cog would work, but then you'll need to source an 11-44 rear cogset. More 
likely to find an 11:46.


All this rear coggery doesn't come for free. You have a 4:1 range in this 
example, and it all has to be taken up in 11 or 12 integer-tooth jumps. You 
lose granularity in the middle range vs a double or triple.

 This may or may not bug you. I don't notice it at all when off-road, but it 
drives me insane on the road.

I ride single tooth changes from about 65" to 75" if I can. I was noticing the 
lack of an 18t cog on my road bike today, for example, as I hunted between the 
53x19(spinny) and the 53x17 (a little heavy) all the way home, pushing a 
headwind on a gently rolling road. 


Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Hub Recommendations

[William deRosset]

Dear Jonathon,
Unless you live somewhere hot and submerge your hubs on mtb rides or 
something similar in terms of temperature differential the gas exchange 
mechanism is a non-issue.

I've owned both. I've worn out both an SV8 (ended up getting new bearings, 
now being used by a friend in town) and a SON 28 (which took a spa trip to 
Germany after its first winter (2000) and now lives in Vermont with my 
brother). There is no significant difference in basic reliability in my 
experience. I have over 100,000 miles on various SON hubs and somewhat 
fewer on the SP; I have used hub dynamos since 1999. I would suggest making 
your decision based not on the reliability (both excellent) but on other 
factors. 

For example, do you want/need both a wide flange spacing and very low drag? 
Do you want/need the wiring fully integrated into the bike? If either or 
both of the latter obtain, then the SON has options that the SP does not. 

If not, then the SP connectors (identical to the Shimano) are a better 
design in my opinion. On the other hand, the SON is more nicely finished. 
Taiwan or Germany? Both make great stuff. You pays your money and makes 
your choice.

If you can live with a narrow-ish flange spacing, or you don't plan to 
build a one-off fork with special connectors, then either will work fine, 
and both Anton Tutter(SP in North America) Peter White (SON in North 
America) and Jan Heine (SON in North America, I think) will be happy to 
help you. PJW will also work with your local bike shop through their 
commercial account.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Monday, May 11, 2020 at 10:06:29 PM UTC-6, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> I was curious what folks experience are with the different dynamo hub 
> options.  The Schmidt Sonn Dynamo hub seem to set the standard but at a 
> high cost.  The other two I was looking at are Shutter Precision and the 
> Shimano Dynamo hubs.  Anyone seen a good comparison? Should I be concerned 
> with reliability if I went with something cheaper than the Schmidt hub?
>

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[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[William deRosset]

Replying to myself: 

A correction: I thought "old us 11" was the Chef Menteur highway. It turns 
out that the correct road is US 90, not US 11.

A point of clarification: I get reminded that "I need to eat from time to 
time," not that "...[r]oadside foraging in Mississippi is as appetizing as 
it sounds."


Best Regards,

Will


On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 4:28:53 PM UTC-6, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Hi, All,
>
> Ok, I'll play.
>
> I was thirteen when I rode my first century. I lived in Slidell, Louisiana 
> at the time, and I rode to Biloxi, Mississippi along the coast. It was a 
> lovely ride on old US 11, and the first half of the ride went really 
> well--sun-kissed slabs of shell-aggregate concrete. You could say I was 
> sailing right along, all right, on my Huffy, spinning out those cranks. 
>
> I stopped for a Coke, exhausting my ride budget, refilled the bottle with 
> water from the tap, and turned around. There was an invisible hand pressing 
> on my chest. A whistling in my ears. A headwind all the way home. I took 
> under 3h for the first fifty miles, and I got back just before dark, 10h 
> after starting. 
>
> I also learned that I have to eat from time to time, and that I should 
> really bring money when I travel unless I plan to forage while riding. 
> Roadside foraging in Mississippi is as appetizing as it sounds. I get 
> reminded of this fact about annually, so this may well be something that I 
> should have learned, and forget too frequently.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
> On Monday, May 4, 2020 at 7:41:14 PM UTC-6, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>>
>> I nearly talked myself out of this thread because I’m about to make 
>> myself look really stupid, but it was so funny that I’m doing it anyway. 
>>
>> I’ve been somewhat of a mess my whole Biking Life. I adored bikes, 
>> always, but I never had a proper bike education or a nice bike until 2012. 
>> I was born to the least mechanically-inclined parents on earth, and my mom 
>> was more proficient than my dad. I grew up riding the worst bike you can 
>> imagine, always with nearly-flat tires. Maybe once a year, usually in 
>> spring, Dad would haul my bike to the gas station and fill the tires with 
>> air. It was like riding on clouds. But eventually, my tires would lose air 
>> again and I’d have to wait until next year. Not that I’d notice anything 
>> was amiss - I was too busy riding barefoot all over small town North 
>> Dakota, falling out of trees, eating penny candy from the bowling alley and 
>> building forts. Tires, what tires. 
>>
>> I grew up, went to college, met and married my husband, who grew up on a 
>> farm. We moved across the country with almost nothing and started our life 
>> and careers. My farmer father-in-law came to visit and outfitted our garage 
>> with tools he thought mandatory, including an air compressor. I think it 
>> was my 27th birthday that my husband told me he wanted to get me a bike. I 
>> knew just the one, it was *really* expensive at $125, but it was my 
>> birthday and I would get the best: A blue Schwinn Sidewinder from the local 
>> Walmart. 
>>
>> While he was visiting, my FIL (again, a farmer and not a bike rider) 
>> noticed my bike tires were pathetically low. Of course I hadn’t noticed; 
>> flat tires were de rigueur for me! He filled them with the air compressor, 
>> pushed on the tire and declared it good. And from then on, that was how I 
>> did it. 
>>
>> I’ve heard you all talk about your supple tires and not wanting them rock 
>> hard, and I knew *I* had supple tires because when I squeezed them, there 
>> was a tiny but perceptible give to the rubber. I mean, that’s what you all 
>> meant, right? So I made sure I never filled my tires very fully because 
>> supple tires were the ticket. 
>>
>> I ended up with a floor pump last year. It has a gauge that tells you 
>> “how much pressure you runnin’”. I have started using it lately and began 
>> to pay attention to what my tire pressure was. 20-25. Huh. I remember folks 
>> discussing tire pressure and I didn’t recall theirs being so low. So, I 
>> asked Joe, who seems to answer most of the questions on the List and 
>> doesn’t seem to resent it. He (through fits of laughter at his keyboard, 
>> I’m sure) said that yes, I actually should be pumping up my tires to a 
>> certain number and that yes, they would feel rock hard, and no, squeezing 
>> them is not a good test, and indeed I would not explode my Big Bens (with 
>> max psi of 70) if I filled them to 55 psi. 
>>
>> I

[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

Ok, I'll play.

I was thirteen when I rode my first century. I lived in Slidell, Louisiana 
at the time, and I rode to Biloxi, Mississippi along the coast. It was a 
lovely ride on old US 11, and the first half of the ride went really 
well--sun-kissed slabs of shell-aggregate concrete. You could say I was 
sailing right along, all right, on my Huffy, spinning out those cranks. 

I stopped for a Coke, exhausting my ride budget, refilled the bottle with 
water from the tap, and turned around. There was an invisible hand pressing 
on my chest. A whistling in my ears. A headwind all the way home. I took 
under 3h for the first fifty miles, and I got back just before dark, 10h 
after starting. 

I also learned that I have to eat from time to time, and that I should 
really bring money when I travel unless I plan to forage while riding. 
Roadside foraging in Mississippi is as appetizing as it sounds. I get 
reminded of this fact about annually, so this may well be something that I 
should have learned, and forget too frequently.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Monday, May 4, 2020 at 7:41:14 PM UTC-6, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> I nearly talked myself out of this thread because I’m about to make myself 
> look really stupid, but it was so funny that I’m doing it anyway. 
>
> I’ve been somewhat of a mess my whole Biking Life. I adored bikes, always, 
> but I never had a proper bike education or a nice bike until 2012. I was 
> born to the least mechanically-inclined parents on earth, and my mom was 
> more proficient than my dad. I grew up riding the worst bike you can 
> imagine, always with nearly-flat tires. Maybe once a year, usually in 
> spring, Dad would haul my bike to the gas station and fill the tires with 
> air. It was like riding on clouds. But eventually, my tires would lose air 
> again and I’d have to wait until next year. Not that I’d notice anything 
> was amiss - I was too busy riding barefoot all over small town North 
> Dakota, falling out of trees, eating penny candy from the bowling alley and 
> building forts. Tires, what tires. 
>
> I grew up, went to college, met and married my husband, who grew up on a 
> farm. We moved across the country with almost nothing and started our life 
> and careers. My farmer father-in-law came to visit and outfitted our garage 
> with tools he thought mandatory, including an air compressor. I think it 
> was my 27th birthday that my husband told me he wanted to get me a bike. I 
> knew just the one, it was *really* expensive at $125, but it was my 
> birthday and I would get the best: A blue Schwinn Sidewinder from the local 
> Walmart. 
>
> While he was visiting, my FIL (again, a farmer and not a bike rider) 
> noticed my bike tires were pathetically low. Of course I hadn’t noticed; 
> flat tires were de rigueur for me! He filled them with the air compressor, 
> pushed on the tire and declared it good. And from then on, that was how I 
> did it. 
>
> I’ve heard you all talk about your supple tires and not wanting them rock 
> hard, and I knew *I* had supple tires because when I squeezed them, there 
> was a tiny but perceptible give to the rubber. I mean, that’s what you all 
> meant, right? So I made sure I never filled my tires very fully because 
> supple tires were the ticket. 
>
> I ended up with a floor pump last year. It has a gauge that tells you “how 
> much pressure you runnin’”. I have started using it lately and began to pay 
> attention to what my tire pressure was. 20-25. Huh. I remember folks 
> discussing tire pressure and I didn’t recall theirs being so low. So, I 
> asked Joe, who seems to answer most of the questions on the List and 
> doesn’t seem to resent it. He (through fits of laughter at his keyboard, 
> I’m sure) said that yes, I actually should be pumping up my tires to a 
> certain number and that yes, they would feel rock hard, and no, squeezing 
> them is not a good test, and indeed I would not explode my Big Bens (with 
> max psi of 70) if I filled them to 55 psi. 
>
> I was today years old when I learned that your tires are *supposed* to 
> feel rock hard and be filled to an actual number. I was today years old 
> when I learned that my “supple tires” were just tires that were low on air. 
>
> Who else has managed to miss the obvious when it comes to bike stuff? 
>
> Leah, who would like you to know she is smart at other things. Just not 
> bike things. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[William deRosset]

They have been with us for well over a century. No reason to think that they're 
going away too quickly.  Right now, they are lighter, less expensive, as 
durable, and as easy to live with as clinchers. They do require a different 
skillset that requires some practice/training.

I haven't had to pull and patch a tubular since I switched to sealant for 
punctures in the field (2012). That makes a tub flat repair faster than a 
clincher one assuming you find the nidus of failure in either case. 

The big downside is the profound shortage of tires in the 28-32mm range with 
road treads. If you ride with heavy loads, a 27 will require too much pressure 
to be fun/compliant/puncture resistant in my experience, but I am no 
lightweight at 14-15stone depending on the season.


Anyway, your mileage and experiences will vary. Enjoy the ride!

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem Smith Jr Disc 59

[William!]

Sharp eye Brett 

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[RBW] Re: PSA: hubbuh hubbuh

[William!]

It's back! Anyone know the seller?

On Tuesday, February 4, 2020 at 2:44:29 PM UTC-8, Birdman wrote:
>
> Not mine and I don’t know the seller, but this medium sized hubbuh hubbuh 
> is new in box: 
>
>
> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bop/d/boise-rivendell-hubbuh-hubbuh-tandem/7068604950.html
>  
>
> Isaac in PDX

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem Smith Jr Disc 59

[William!]

Here’s the backstory (and photos) on my Atlantis, which I converted to discs + 
650b
https://bikepacking.com/news/readers-rig-williams-rivendell-atlantis/

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[RBW] MUSA Pants

[William deRosset]

Dear Dan,

My experience with Rivendell: call and ask. They will steer you as straight as 
anyone can remotely.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: Group Riding / New Covid-19 World

[William deRosset]

Dear Bill,


Don't ride drunk, paceline, or sprint for town limit signs and the bike ride is 
less likely to result in injury or death than hiding in your home, assuming you 
shower from time to time.

Best Regards,
Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: Group Riding / New Covid-19 World

[William deRosset]

Dear Patrick

True re: 2017-2018 flu season. Also, our novel coronavirus is more 
infectious, nobody has partial immunity (yet), and the death/complication 
rate is rather higher than it was for the flu strain you cite.

The point of all the social distancing, closing schools etc is to slow the 
wave of infection, reduce the peak numbers, so that emergency/medical 
services are available to the ~20% of cases that require medical assistance 
vs totally overwhelming the available services.

A personal note: I was briefly on oxygen in early 2018 thanks to that damn 
flu and a subsequent viral pneumonia. It ruined my riding season that year, 
and I still have respiratory deficits associated with it. Not recommended.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Saturday, March 14, 2020 at 3:27:03 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> In 2017-18 there were 80,000 deaths from the flu in the US. 900,000 people 
> went to the hospital because of the flu. Per: 
> https://www.washingtonpost.com/national/health-science/last-years-flu-broke-records-for-deaths-and-illnesses-new-cdc-numbers-show/2018/09/26/97cb43fc-c0ed-11e8-90c9-23f963eea204_story.html
>
> Make of that what you will.
>
> Still riding with abandon,
> Patrick
>

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[RBW] Re: My sweater just shipped!

[William deRosset]

Dear All,

My derby tweed crewneck arrived while I was out of the country. I've had a 
chance to wear it for a day and a half, and have the following initial 
impressions:

It is a fine-wale 2X2 knit. Various grey tones with some green in it. It 
reads as green under florescent lights, and grey in sunlight.

The fabric is slightly lighter-weight than the prior WW sweater I owned, 
which was a jersey-knit with a button collar and back pockets, and was my 
favorite winter cycling garment ever.

The fit is pretty typical for a medium-weight dress sweater, stretchy and 
long-ish. Overall, the silhouette is similar to a wooly-pully (USMC issue 
sweater) without the arm and shoulder reinforcement patches; the sleeves 
are a bit longer (thankfully for me). This is also a more-refined object 
than a standard wooly-pully (which is also a 2X2 wale, short arms, a bit 
coarser, and not as well finished as this garment). My size large fits 
about like a 42 and is one of the very few sweaters that I can wear with 
the cuffs turned back. I find it borderline hot for indoor wear over a 
cotton OCBD shirt and a sleeveless wool undershirt.

It is a keeper.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO
On Sunday, February 16, 2020 at 1:46:39 PM UTC-7, JohnS wrote:
>
> Ugh, looks like they are sold out again! I'll have to put my name of the 
> list for next time.
>
> JohnS
>
>
> On Saturday, February 15, 2020 at 9:58:53 PM UTC-5, bo richardson wrote:
>>
>> mine as well. but mine is a small.
>> i called a month ago to see if i could get one. not as far as they knew. 
>> so i spent hours looking for the perfect sweater for post season 30% off, 
>>  nope.
>> when the new opportunity for a WW appeared in my inbox i grabbed it post 
>> haste.
>> later that day i got a personal message from Rory saying i could get 
>> one.after all. 
>> he had made a note a month ago when i called, and even remembered my size.
>> i was already in the pipeline with my order, but what good work Riv does, 
>>  and what a good guy Rory is.
>>
>> bo richardson
>> bellingham
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB / Looking For: Roadish 650b wheelset with 130mm rear spacing

[William Humphrey]

PM sent!

On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 6:39:31 AM UTC-6, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> I'm building up an old Lygie frame for my wife that has been in our family 
> for about 15 years.  I recently had some bridges repaired and repainted by 
> Bilenky.
> I'm planning to build it up with sensible, not too fancy, but road worthy 
> parts for my wife .a lighter rando-ish bike to serve as a foil to her 
> Bruce Gordon BLT.
> Bilenky changed the rear spacing from 126mm to 130mm.
>
> I'd like to find a classic looking box type rim wheelset that will take a 
> modern cassette and won't break the bank.
> Planning to use tubes.
> 650b, less than 42mm tires. 
> Silver color preferred on all parts.
>
> Does anyone have anything like this they'd like to move on, ...or can 
> anyone point me in the right direction for a retailer that may sell factory 
> made / machine made wheelsets that would be appropriate for this?
>
> pic of frame *before* the repairs / paint
>
> [image: Lygie_Right.jpg]
>
>
> Thank you
>
> JS
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Custom, not a custom

[William R.]

This gets me excited too! I like Mark Nobilette's work a lot and I like 
that Riv is working with him more. Didn't like the way things seemed 
between Riv and Waterford. I thought that the Nobilette Roadeo project 
sounded cool, but now this bike - with brazed on Paul center pulls and more 
tire clearance - sounds really interesting. Also note that what Grant is 
indicating is a complete bike with Nobilette frame for around $4,000 - not 
just a frameset.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: 650b 2.2–2.4 CITY tire recommendations* *Also: Is a tire dead when it has tiny holes from glass?

[William!]

Plus one for trying sealant. I run TB’s tubeless on my commuter and while I get 
plenty of punctures I rarely flat. I don’t think I would run TB’s any otherwise 
- they are a wonderful feel but they have ZERO puncture resistance. 

Also they wear out pretty fast. Once they get worn out the punctures are even 
more common...

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[RBW] Tires for Toyo Fatlantis?

[William!]

Thunderburts on mine

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[RBW] FS: Sackville XS, Brooks, Jones, Schwalbe, etc.

[William R.]

Hi all,


I will cross post this list to the BOB list as well. Just a bunch of stuff 
that I need to clear out of my limited space. All prices include shipping 
to continental US only. All questions and comments welcome and additional 
photos available upon request. Please allow a few days for me to ship. 
Thanks.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/7DfzwB941TdC2te46


Bill in Westchester, NY


*Vee Tire Co Speedster 29 x 2.8 tubeless ready tires* these came on my 
Jones, they are nice tires but I have too many tires. These could work well 
on the new Susie and Gus bikes. Used. Low miles. Pair. $100 shipped


*Schwalbe Thunder Burt Liteskin 29 x 2.1 tires* these are *not* tubeless 
ready tires. Nice, light tires though! Used. One has very low miles. The 
other has more. See photos. Pair. $45 shipped


*Bontrager Revolt Super X 26 x 2.2 tires* these are *not* tubeless ready 
tires. They are nice, light tires that are kind of like 26" Thunder Burts. 
Used. Low miles. Pair. $35 shipped


*Schwalbe Big Ben 650b/27.5 x 50/2.0 wire bead tires* Used. Low miles. 
Pair. $30 shipped


*Bontrager Race Lite 700 x 23 wire bead tires* these are skinny tires! 
Remind yourself what it's like! These would be good tires to use on rollers 
or an indoor trainer also. Two tubes included. Used. Less than one mile! 
Pair. $25 shipped


*Brooks B17 Select* this is raw leather when new version. Nice, gently 
beausaged patina. Very good condition. No adjustment has been made to the 
tension bolt. Only slight cracks around rear rivets. Astronomical when 
bought new. Wrench included. $100 shipped


*Jones saddle *this saddle came on my Jones complete. It has not been used. 
$30 shipped


*Selle Italia saddle* vintage from at least 1983. In good shape. Has some 
scuffs, but no cracks or rips. Nice comfy saddle with bag loops. $30 shipped


*Sackville XS Saddle Sack* used, a little dirt, but in very good condition. 
No rips, no damage, nice bag. Olive. $60 shipped


*Sackville XS Saddle Sack* used, a little dirt, but in very good condition. 
No rips, no damage, nice bag. Has a round light spot compared to rest of 
the bag where a Just Ride patch was stickered on (not stitched). Tan. $60 
shipped


*Jones Loop Handlebar with Jones Grips* technical name is Jones H-Bar SG 
Loop Aluminum. These are the non-butted, heaviest, cheapest Jones H-Bar. A 
nice way to try them out without spending too much. 625 grams. Also 
included are a pair of the Jones Kraton H-Grips with end caps. All are used 
but in very good condition. $75 shipped


*Truvativ Stylo Race Riser Handlebar* see photos for size/dims. Slightly 
used, very good condition. $30 shipped



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[RBW] Re: Snow and Brisk Riding Tips

[William deRosset]

Dear Matt,

Studded snows are the only effective answer to glare or black sheet ice. They 
are heavy tires with stiff casings to support the studs, and are horrible to 
ride on clear pavement as a result. I hate to ride them until I desperately 
need them.

For other snowbound conditions (slush, loose snow, car snot, most ruts) 
widely-spaced knobbies with light casings are better-riding.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: WTB 57cm A. Homer Hilsen

[William Humphrey]

I have a 57 AHH for sale as a complete bicycle but I'll need until Monday 
to share photos and specs.  Best, Bill in Wisconsin


On Wednesday, December 25, 2019 at 12:53:47 PM UTC-6, Eric G wrote:
>
> Such empty, indeed. Hopefully someone at some point will be interested in 
> offloading a 57 AHH!
>
> Eric 
>

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[RBW] Favorite All-around Drive train?

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

If low tread width is a priority and you really want wide-range gearing, then 
the TA pro five vis, fiddly setup and all, is the leader, followed by its 
imitators (and it's inspiration, the stronglight 49d). I can set up a 1x+granny 
like a 48/32 with a 140 tread width without too much trouble.

For current production, the René Herse crank is lovely, expensive, sets up well 
(use a Shimano 107 bb) and has a 142mm or so q. Lots of chainring choices, but 
only two paired setups with ramps and pins.

The IRD Defiant is utterly simple to set up and live with (I can use a 107 bb 
on my Road Sport and the IRD is a good choice), is not terribly expensive, and 
also slots in with a reasonable tread width. It also comes with 46/30 rings 
with shifting aids, which do help with wide-range front setups.

If you can live with racing gears (53/39, 52/42, or similar) then the Dura-ace 
7400/7402 cranks, Campagnolo record/nuovo record/super record and their many 
imitators, and the lovely Suntour Cyclone/superbe cranks are great and all slot 
in in the 140-ish millimeter tread width range for modern chainline setups. 

 

Good luck, and let us know where you go with the bike.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Favorite All-around Drive train?

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

Ok, I will play.

Disclosure: my rivlike bike is a 1998 Heron Touring that is on permanent 
loan/trailer duty with my brother in VT.

Drivetrain- Ritchey logic compact double, 48/34, Suntour XC front derailleur, 
13-32 Sachs 7-speed freewheel, deore xt 8s short-cage rear derailleur, Suntour 
Sprint downtube shifters.

That isn't how it is set up today, but that was its peak-Rivendell moment. It 
has a TA pro 5 vis 48/32, a 9s era xt rear derailleur, and a Shimano 14-28 7s 
freewheel now. Works just as well, but not quite as aesthetically-pleasing to 
me.

As long as I get the ergonomics (low tread width mostly, but STI levers don't 
spark joy) and a 3:1 gear range with a low enough gear, I am set with most 
gearing setups. I slightly prefer downtube shifters (and indexing if >7 cogs in 
the back), and currently mostly use either 7s friction or 10s indexing setups 
with wide-range double cranksets. 

I also have a modern-ish guilty pleasure: Campagnolo ergo record/chorus 10s 
from the pre-carbon fiber crank era. A Record crank keeps the q around 145.  
The whole group all works well, it looks good on my steel bikes, and spare 
parts are abundant/ still in production fifteen years later.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] tubeless tire repair & maint Q

[William!]

Around town: dynaplug. Never failed me.

Day ride: one tube. Never actually used it.

Multiday ride: two tubes, extra sealant.

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Re: [RBW] Non technical riding gear

[William deRosset]

Dear Jock,

Oui,

Ça plane pour moi. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdf5h2NX4xQ>


Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO


On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 7:44:06 AM UTC-6, Jock Dewey wrote:
>
> Y'all:
>
> Wow, don't know about the BEMIDJI shirts but those VESTS. Now that's some 
> serious vogue. And insulated, too! 
>
> Combine with nice knickers (think JITENSHA) and matching sox, good ol' 
> black shoes, so nice! *RSF here we come.*
>
> Jock Dewey / Athens, GA (where we do often wear wool through our warm 
> 'winters')
>
> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 6:47:41 PM UTC-4, William deRosset wrote:
>>
>> Dear Joe,
>>
>> A Bemidji mills wool shirt 
>> <https://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/app.php?nav=brand=Bemidji%20Woolen%20Mills>
>>  sure 
>> does in cool weather. Get the tall version for cycling. 
>>
>> Pendleton woolies get cheap in the used shops come spring, too.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Will
>> William M. deRosset
>> Fort Collins, CO
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 6:34:58 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> Does it plane?
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Non technical riding gear

[William deRosset]

Dear Joe,

A Bemidji mills wool shirt 
<https://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/app.php?nav=brand=Bemidji%20Woolen%20Mills>
 sure 
does in cool weather. Get the tall version for cycling. 

Pendleton woolies get cheap in the used shops come spring, too.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 6:34:58 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Does it plane?

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[RBW] WTB English Rain coat

[William deRosset]

Dear Matthew,

I will enthusiastically second Hilltrek, either their greenspot jacket (size up 
if you have long arms) or their "braemar hybrid smock", which is a half-zip 
hooded jacket with a double-ventile upper half. 

I have had four Hilltrek jackets. I am too sweaty/run too hot for Analogy pump 
liners (I have one, and it sees little use as a result).

The double-layer greenspot was a fantastic jacket, though the pocketing was not 
ideal for winter use, and it is cut a bit trimly for off-bike use. Sizing up 
fixed the problem, and gave me an opportunity to get my little brother a nice 
jacket (he is both younger and smaller, and the medium fit him well). I managed 
to let mine get stolen. Oddly, my brother lost his too, leaving it behind in a 
cafe

 I have a single-layer Braemar windshirt that does almost exactly what I 
want—breathes well, wide comfort range, sheds short, intense thunderstorms, 
lots of pockets.. About four times a year I get caught in an extended steady 
rain and the single-layer shoulders wet out. Hence the "hybrid" recommendation.

They are brutally expensive, and worth it. Sewn in Scotland.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] The Final Legolas

[William!]

Those are really smart customizations, Brian. I wish my Legolas could do 
downtube shifters, and I wouldn’t be surprised at all if you end up using those 
rack mounts. If I was ever considering repainting it I’d do those things plus 
some reinforced holes for internal dynamo wiring...

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Re: [RBW] The Final Legolas

[William!]

I replaced my Roadeo with a (used) Legolas and it can run a wider tire. Roadeo 
maxed out ~35mm. The Legolas is currently running a 42mm, could probably fit a 
46 or so...

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a replacement for the old MUSA short sleeved merino wool jersey

[William deRosset]

Dear Eamon,

The Kucharik jerseys are club cut, though less club cut than a Hanes 
beefy-T. I wear a large "race-cut" jersey (size 4) and a medium in Kucharik 
short-sleeve jerseys.  

Wabi Woolens medium-tall is an optimum fit in their original (winter) 
jerseys, though a large is still a fit for me (just a relaxed one) and I 
fit a large in their (race-cut) sport jerseys.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Monday, July 29, 2019 at 12:05:40 AM UTC-6, Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>
> I'll be curious to hear how you Kucharik fits. It's just about impossible 
> to find a picture of one actually on somebody. I fear they might be too 
> baggy for my bony slim body, but would love to be wrong.
>
> Eamon
> Seattle
>

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[RBW] Seeking summer weight long sleeve wool shirt ideas

[William deRosset]

Dear Patrick,

Pendleton woolen Mills makes a line of "sir Pendleton" worsted wool for the 
office dweller. They are well-constructed sport shirts with button-down collars 
etc. Depending on the year, they are available in red plaid. I have a few. They 
are a touch heavy for midsummer, as I need to wear them with an undershirt to 
limit laundering them, but are excellent. I get about ten years out of one 
before I blow out the elbows or start seeing fraying at the cuffs.  They are 
worth patching in my opinion.

Best Regards,

Will

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[RBW] Film cameras on bike rides?

[William deRosset]

Dear Phillip,

The iiic/iiif are pretty sturdy, and my iiif with a collapsable Elmar has 
turned out to be a stickier camera than my Ms, thich come and go. I put mine in 
an old lens bag and toss it into my handlebar bag on top of my rain jacket. If 
I am riding with a jersey, it goes in one of the pockets. My only caveat is 
that the top plate dents easily, though with no apparent functional 
ramifications. You have, however, knocked $50 off of the $400 resale value of a 
iiif

That said, blowing $200 on a high-gloss xa or the right rollei 35s that just 
requires no care at all has its appeal, too.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Blahg No. 21 & Instagram post Sam brake cable thing?

[William Henderson]

If you were gonna do a single disc brake retro fit it’d be much better to 
replace the fork and put it up front... the so-called “mullet” treatment.

William
Sent from my iPhone

On Fri, Jun 14 2019 at 9:14 PM, Joseph Bernard < joerem...@gmail.com > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely wrong, but I say he's going to finagle a disc drag brake in
> there cuz there must be one around the shop from a HubbuhHubbuh. Do it,
> Roman!
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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[RBW] Blahg No. 21 & Instagram post Sam brake cable thing?

[William!]

My guess: it’s an empty cable yoke just hanging out in case the 650b conversion 
doesn’t stick. 路‍♂️ 

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell Tenet Set to Hit the Mainstream?

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

I forgot to add: that said, I ran to work this morning in a wool t-shirt, 
socks, and underwear. My work togs all week include hard-finish wool overshirts 
and wool slacks, which get washed maybe three times a year.

 And the wash fills up with the odd cotton bits long before the wool knits  
pick themselves up and wander off of the "worn, but not yet dirty" pile to the 
wash basket.

Synthetics last effectively forever, and smell of, well, me, after a few 
hours's use. Even the silver-treated "antibacterial" ones.

Wool is a good material.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell Tenet Set to Hit the Mainstream?

[William deRosset]

Dear John,

The short answer is yes, wool is more expensive. It also is harder to work with 
than most synthetics in my amateur experience.

It is harder to source if you care about getting the knit/weave just so. 
Critters eat it. It felts unless chemically treated. It shrinks. You can't 
easily print giant logos on it. 

It is worth it, though. And washing wool on the gentle cycle in cold water is 
just fine, as long as the garment can be reblocked and didn't require a lot of 
hand fitting work (good hand-tailored suits will likely require reconstruction 
if washed vs an engineered fit suit).

Cheers,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] RD compatible with index shifters?

[William deRosset]

Dear Dave,

If you look on the inner parallelogram link, there should be an engraved model 
number..

All 9v Shimano derailleurs are interchangeable. 10v and later is not (dynasys 
has a different pull ratio, and 11v is also internally mutually incompatible), 
and 8v and prior Dura-ace do not interchange with other Shimano stuff.


Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

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[RBW] Re: Tires for 2000/2001 Toyo Atlantis with 50mm SKS fenders

[William!]

I’ve run both 42mm and 48mm Shikoros on my 61cm Toyo, with fenders. 48mm is 
somewhat tight but I’ve had no issues with it.

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[William R.]

Nice Hilsen David Hays. Waterford or Toyo? I would like to have one. MIT, Toyo 
or Waterford wouldn’t matter too much too me. Though, if possible, I would go 
new through RBWHQ to give them the business. I think it would slot in between 
my Roadini and Appaloosa nicely. Enjoy that beautiful bike!

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[William R.]

Thanks Tom, agreed, it’s a great bike that fits so well. I’m very comfortable 
on it. Rivs just sail when you are out there on them. Fast when I want to be 
and moving along nicely when I don’t care and I’m taking in the scenery. So 
glad I didn’t sell it! Never again! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[William R.]

Patrick: 8-10 lbs sounds about right. I had two large and full water bottles in 
it this morning with a couple of pieces of extra clothing, phone, keys and a 
little food. I was afraid it would make the steering floppy, but I was 
pleasantly surprised. Even riding no hands was not a problem. It felt good.

John: yes, it is a klickflix attachment. Nice and secure.

The bag is a little high and not level with the bar. Maybe an inch and a half 
above it. The Klickflix puts the rear of the bag about two inches ahead of the 
bar. It all works quite well for me. No problems. Plenty of room to move about 
the cabin. I like it!

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[RBW] In praise of Silver Shifters

[William!]

Maybe I got a bad set? I had terrible ghost shifting problems from mine! After 
several years of fiddling with other things to try to fix I replaced them with 
Dura Ace dt shifters (converted to bar end). Problem solved.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What high security locks are people locking their bikes with?

[William!]

1. fahgettaboudit krypto mini ulock
2. pitlocks on wheel/seatpost. 
3. generic stainless torx security bolts (a buck or so at any well-stocked 
hardware store) for lights, racks etc.

Great security and quick to lock up. Heavy as hell, but you didn’t buy a 
Rivendell for the weight right?

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[RBW] Hand-Cranked Coffee Grinder Recommendation

[William!]

I had a hand grinder that was not the javapress but had a similar handle. It 
stripped after a year or two of daily use. The stamped metal of the handle is 
relatively soft, a poor choice for gripping the hexagonal nut on top of the 
grinder.

The Porlex appears to address this problem by using a better designed system 
for attaching the handle. I haven’t owned one though so I can’t comment on 
whether it has higher quality materials or if this design stands the test of 
time.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[William deRosset]

Dear Matt,

The short version is "never," and "as little as possible," respectively.

As long as the saddle remains comfortable, isn't bottoming out on the rails, 
seatpost, etc, and isn't splaying unacceptably, don't think twice and keep on 
riding.


Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[William deRosset]

Dear Mark,

The grubscrews to which you refer are on the straddle wire carrier, 
<https://www.tektro.com/upload/Product/F_20150915085438BhVJtz.PDF> and are 
only used to locate the straddle cable carrier on the straddle cable. They 
are not directly in the load path. I've never used them. I pull mine and 
keep them in a jar of m4 grub screws, which are used on my fender mounts, 
as they are unnecessary to the function of the brake or of the straddle 
carrier. the brakes center just fine.



[image: 2019-04-17_11-00-52.png] [image: 
2019-04-17_11-03-10.png] 


Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:55:30 PM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Hi Will. Yes, I've been rolling with the tektro 720's on my 26in road bike 
> for a few years, been through a couple of sets of Koolstops. Steve, they do 
> have the grub screw. But it's not necessary to use it.
>
> I think there are lots of variables that makes for such a wide variety of 
> opinions. The two main ones in my estimation would be brake setup and user 
> expectation.
>
> n Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:56:05 PM UTC-4, William deRosset wrote:
> > Dear Mark,
> > 
> > Tektro cr720's are a fine enough brake, and when set up properly, work 
> as well as any. They have the significant advantage of using orbital brake 
> pads and slotted pad holder mounts that greatly simplify setup. Just 
> replace the astonishingly bad Tektro brake blocks with Kool-Stop Salmon pads
> > Also, the hardware on the brake is less-than-beautifully finished, if 
> functional. 
> > 
> > They punch well above their $45/bike price. Add $12 for Salmon pads up 
> front.
> > 
> > If cost is no object, then the RH brakes work well in my experience. 
> They are lovely as well.
> > 
> > Best Regards,
> > 
> > Will
> > William M deRosset
> > Fort Collins CO USA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[William deRosset]

>Do the Tektros use one of those grub screws to anchor the straddle cable?

Dear Steve,

Nope. They use a cast end on one side and a pinch clamp for the other. 

A grub screw bearing directly on a stranded cable loaded in tension is also 
described as the "death clamp", right? There are ways to fix it (brass 
sleeve, for instance, a ball bearing may also work), but it is a 
stupid/unsafe/inconvenient design out of the box.

Best Regards,

Will
On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:10:06 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 4/15/19 8:56 PM, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear Mark,
>
> Tektro cr720's are a fine enough brake, and when set up properly, work as 
> well as any. They have the significant advantage of using orbital brake pads 
> and slotted pad holder mounts that greatly simplify setup. Just replace the 
> astonishingly bad Tektro brake blocks with Kool-Stop Salmon pads
> Also, the hardware on the brake is less-than-beautifully finished, if 
> functional. 
>
> They punch well above their $45/bike price. Add $12 for Salmon pads up front.
>
> If cost is no object, then the RH brakes work well in my experience. They are 
> lovely as well.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Will
> William M deRosset
> Fort Collins CO USA
>
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[William deRosset]

Dear Mark,

Tektro cr720's are a fine enough brake, and when set up properly, work as well 
as any. They have the significant advantage of using orbital brake pads and 
slotted pad holder mounts that greatly simplify setup. Just replace the 
astonishingly bad Tektro brake blocks with Kool-Stop Salmon pads
Also, the hardware on the brake is less-than-beautifully finished, if 
functional. 

They punch well above their $45/bike price. Add $12 for Salmon pads up front.

If cost is no object, then the RH brakes work well in my experience. They are 
lovely as well.

Best Regards,

Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless Headset Questions

[William deRosset]

>Try changing the height of your bars on the road with a threadless stem. 
If you set it up correctly (extra length in the steerer+ extra spacers), it 
can be done ... but it will take ten times longer than with a quill stem.

Dear Eric,

If one is in the habit of constantly changing one's bar height without 
making corresponding changes to one's stem extension, you are correct. 

If one adjusts both height and reach in tandem (necessary in my 
experience), then most quill setups (which do not have removable face 
plates) are a bigger pain than playing musical removable-faceplate stems.

If one more-or-less sets the handlebar position and doesn't mess with it 
(most riders I know fall into this latter bin), then this disadvantage is 
not really a significant one. 

My René Herse has the awkward combination of a one-off clamp-on stem and 
threaded headset, and the only time it bugs me (besides aesthetically--it 
is not an elegant engineering solution in my opinion) is about every four 
years, when I travel by air with it and have to pull the fork. I could 
freely adjust the bar height, though...

Finally, how often do you actually change stem height *during a ride* once 
your fit is dialed in? My frequency is zero (since 1976).

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO
 

On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:11:43 AM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Try changing the height of your bars on the road with a threadless stem. 
> If you set it up correctly (extra length in the steerer+ extra spacers), it 
> can be done ... but it will take ten times longer than with a quill stem.
>
> OTOH, it’s impossible to get a threadless stem stuck inside the steerer, 
> which has happened on several of my standard-quill bikes.
>
> Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Apr 14, 2019, at 8:49 PM, hugh flynn > 
> wrote:
>
> The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it is 
> astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...
>
> That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency 
> with which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded 
> headset adjustmemt, one doesn't have to fiddle with headset preload when 
> changing or adjusting a quill stem.
>
> Hugh "net gain is null" Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>
> On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:07 PM Drw > 
> wrote:
>
>> Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so 
>> complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so 
>> that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt 
>> actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head. 
>>
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> -- 
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> Newburyport, MA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[William Henderson]

I don't think anyone here is making the case that racing bikes with skinny 
tires should have disc brakes.

William
Sent from my iPhone

On Tue, Apr 02, 2019 at 1:56 PM, S < sbl...@gmail.com > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Jan Heine wrote a post about that. In the first year that TdF riders
> were allowed to use disc brakes, they used them in just one TT stage, and
> only then because of pressure from the manufacturers.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[William Henderson]

They could create a mullet option – an optional disc fork for $100 more, 
standard frame with rim brakes in the back. Most of the practical benefits of 
disc brakes come from the front end, and the resulting irreverence and lack of 
symmetry would be quite Rivendellian IMO.

William
Sent from my iPhone

On Tue, Apr 02, 2019 at 11:32 AM, Joe Bernard < joerem...@gmail.com > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> At this point all disc talk is howling at the moon, the bike has v-brakes.
> If it sells well everybody wins, and I hope it does.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[William!]

> - Ryan (who thinks disc brakes like the Paul Klampers are a lot better 
> than rim brakes ;) )
>

This is something I'd also like to disc-gus 

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[RBW] Newbaums Be Gone

[William!]

I made the mistake of putting Newbaums on my Cliffhanger rims, riding them 
for a year and then deciding to switch them to tubeless. Newbaums is 
evidently *not* meant to come off. It left a ton of residue that I have yet 
to find a good solvent for. Have tried rubbing alcohol, acetone, and going 
at it with a heat gun. Going to try Goo Gone next.

Anyone solved this problem before?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cargo e-bikes are an amazing concept, but the options are imperfect

[William Henderson]

Another plus one on the center stand. Xtracycle has this nailed. This is 
probably the worst thing about the Tern, but thankfully there is an aftermarket 
center stand available (for major $$).

William
Sent from my iPhone

On Mon, Mar 18 2019 at 6:25 PM, < matt.ransf...@gmail.com > wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> Plus one for the center stand (which the bakfiets has in spades). You will
> never be able to control the climbing in and out factor without it & they
> will climb when you’re least ready
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Cargo e-bikes are an amazing concept, but the options are imperfect

[William!]

My family has owned an Edgerunner (non-electric), Spicy Curry and now a Tern 
GSD. They are all great bikes and played a major part in allowing us to remain 
car free with two kids.

Here’s my take:
- Get something with a Bosch system. Incredibly smooth, plenty of power (no 
issues hauling adult passengers up hills) and reliable.
- The small wheel factor of the GSD takes a bit of getting used to, but it 
makes the bike far more practical for daily use. At $4k the base model GSD is 
also the best deal for a Bosch-equipped cargo bike. It is extremely well design 
- thru axels, adjustable bars, good integrated lighting and many other nice 
details.
- Pay as much attention to the accessories as you do the bike (especially if 
you plan to haul children). The racks, bags, kickstand, and platforms available 
will play a huge part in how useful, flexible and cumbersome a carp bike is. 
And unlike with normal bikes, there is little interoperability. Currently I 
give Tern and Xtracycle the highest marks for accessorie design.
- A test ride is not enough. See if the shop will rent you the bike, ideally 
for a week. You need to see how it fits into your life, how easy it is to do 
various tasks, how much the kids like it, etc.

Good luck!
William

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[RBW] Re: MicroShift’s New $125 drivetrain

[William!]

*whispers*
But does it come in silver?

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[William R.]

Hi Rich. Yes, that is the new Mario Zee bridge back there. I still call it 
Tappan Zee. Old habits and time will ultimately decide. Looking forward to the 
MUP opening up across it. They are still working on that. It will open up a 
whole new world of routes soon. -Bill

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Re: [RBW] Re: 25th Anniversary Riv

[William R.]

John,

I think there’s a good chance that Bon Jons and fenders will work on the 
Roadini. Brake choice will be important and some finagling may be necessary. If 
you go forward with this project, please post the results. Thanks. 

-Bill

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Re: [RBW] Re: 25th Anniversary Riv

[William R.]

38s will fit on the Roadini with a Paul Racer on the front. Barlow Pass 
shown in photo. I would like to see if the Diacompe 610s might offer a 
little more clearance but have not had the chance to try them yet. If they 
do I might feel bold enough to throw some Steilacooms on. In photos on the 
Riv site, it looks the 610s might offer up a bit more clearance. As is, 
I've been riding the bike like this with the Barlows and I've had zero 
problems and it feels great.

Bill in Westchester, NY

[image: IMG_6029.jpeg]

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[RBW] WTB: 650b wheelset

[William!]

Also, tubeless compatible would be nice. 

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[RBW] WTB: 650b wheelset

[William!]

Rim-brake compatible, ideally silver, for mounting a tire ~40mm wide.

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