Depends now on H or L, the published geos for the Hs are still the same, if I
remember right. The new Ls get longer effective top tubes, longer chainstays,
and a slightly shallower headtube angle to match, I believe.
If this works it should be a copy of the original 2015 geos for the Clems and
I've only just used the Shimano 3N72, and only for a couple weeks now, but
I went for it after a few people here expressed good experiences with them,
and then finding this comparison online that showed the Shimanos were much
much closer to the SONs than not these
days:
comes from
> excessively high pressure, where even small bumps cause the tire to hop, or
> on the contrary, the bouncing that comes from pedaling on a tire so soft
> that it sags with each pedal stroke.
>
> On Tue, May 5, 2020 at 9:17 AM Zed Martinez > wrote:
>
>&
:31 AM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I'm with Patrick on the tire mattering a lot. I ride more the
> utility/brick side of tires than he does (and consequently have developed a
> habit of leaning towards higher inflations rather than lower), and the
> optimum balance betw
I'm with Patrick on the tire mattering a lot. I ride more the utility/brick
side of tires than he does (and consequently have developed a habit of
leaning towards higher inflations rather than lower), and the optimum
balance between 'feels slow' and 'starts bouncing' can deviate notably from
The weirdest and hardest to isolate ticking I ever fixed was the clamp
sleeve on a pair of Bosco bars. Even with a clean, tight stem interface,
there'd be a tick tick tick as I weighted and unweighted the bars. Only
solved that one by dribbling a little blue Loctite around the sleeve's ends
I shimmed mine for a while. Worked fine, mechanically. Like every time I’ve
used a shim, it was more prone to creaking and ticking over time. Otherwise it
went fine.
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>
> too big and rubbed on the metal stay strap the runs under the fender
It requires being a bit a bit handy and ideally a rivet setter, but on
those SKS fenders you can drill out the rivets on those brackets and
remount them on the outside of the fender instead. Good for tight
clearance,
I can see the argument for two master links weakening the chain, but I rode
my larger Clem with a two master link splice the entire time I had it and
never had any issue really. Actually, I kinda miss that little two master
link set-up, since the master links didn't wear the same as the chain
Brake sets sold. Thumbie adaptors and tires still up for grabs.
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Both brake sets pending. Sorry all who emailed me, had some work come up,
I'll reply to everybody in order.
On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 2:31:37 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> Hey all, so, while I was digging through the parts storage for a few
> things this weekend for listers who
Hey all, so, while I was digging through the parts storage for a few things
this weekend for listers who had some WTBs I was able to help on, I found
some other parts left over from my many years of experimenting with Clem
builds. I'm quite happy with my final build now, so, time to see if
"Gravel Peterson"
>
>
Admittedly, 'Gravel Peterson' would've been a great name for my 52cm Clem,
and I'm mad I didn't think of it.
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Hello all! I could use a good crankset of the standard Riv varieties in a
170 crankarm, which seems to be OOS pretty much everywhere ATM. If anyone
has a spare laying around, I'd be interested in taking it off your hands.
Not super picky about configuration. Or, even just bare arms, I have some
I actually do have one of those, haven't needed it since I switched to
using a front rack with a deeper tombstone on the Clem. Send me a private,
we'll get you sorted.
On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 2:23:08 PM UTC-5, Cody Bartz wrote:
>
> Hi folks!
>
> Anyone out there have a VO decaleur kit
Not quite the same thing but I'm right at the cusp between the 45 and the
52 with about an 80.5 PBH/70cm saddle height. So, literally the last model
of overlap. I started with the 52 in the H, and eventually switched to the
45 but in L. I don't suspect the fit and position I have is quite what
Sorry, yes, sold.
On Sunday, December 9, 2018 at 1:42:49 PM UTC-5, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Sold?
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Sale pending. Thanks everyone for the interest and feedback.
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Bump, still available if anyone needs a winter project. Had to update the
CL post for more
details:
https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/bik/d/rivendell-clem-smith-jr-52cm/6758376973.html
On Friday, November 2, 2018 at 9:35:18 AM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> OK, this is still ava
I don't really do any rides longer than 50 miles, so, I guess I don't know
if I'd love them on all day rides. But for what I do, Albastaches are my
favorite for 'high energy' riding. I built myself out of a bike for them a
couple year ago when I got the Clem and found I didn't actually like
OK, this is still available.
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Possible sale pending. Will update either way once it's decided.
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Hey guys. I've been hoping this would sell locally, but all the local
interest keeps falling through so I'm accepting that I'll have to ship this
guy. I've got my old 52cm Clem L in forest green I'd like to get off to a
new home. Regular listers might know I switched to a 45cm L this fall after
I've got a single Paul Touring in silver. It's pretty heavily used though,
and one of the post bushings is a bit rough. PM for details and pictures if
you like, if you think it'll work we can probably figure out a more than
fair price.
On Saturday, October 20, 2018 at 1:49:48 PM UTC-4, R.
I can't speak to the big frame, but having a PBH that was right on the cusp
of the 45/52 sizes and having now owned both, I can say that if you prefer
upright, one-or-two hand position, casual riding you'll be happy with the
larger size. If you prefer a more energetic ride (which apparently I
Patrick, I have some complicated thoughts that lean often negatively about
Roland Barthe (because, my, he could come across quite pompous), but he has
this notion when he discusses what he likes about photography called the
'punctum' that I find to be a very useful term, and an interesting
I carry a little half-frame scale-focus camera with me when I bike. I
bought a universal camera 'bag' insert about the dimensions of my handlebar
bag's interior and use that to make a nice pocket for it. Most of my
'professional' time is spent supporting the local theatre scene through
There was a thread a couple years back that had a lot of them, I remember
commenting on it because I had just been doing my own trawl through the
Readers and a lot of the info was still right at my fingertips as a
result.
the
switch, but, like I said, for me the Clem is my commuter and most days my
car, so...
On Thursday, September 13, 2018 at 1:59:34 PM UTC-4, Doug H. wrote:
>
> That makes perfect sense Zed. So, you currently ride the L?
> Doug.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 13, 2018, at
Hey Doug, having owned one of each:
If for you (the generic you, not necessarily actually you) the Clem is a
trail/rough-road bike, and you have good flexibility, the H makes more
sense. It's more rigid, and very obviously shows its old MTB inspiration.
If for you the Clem is a commuter and
I'm currently riding Billies on my Clem. I've run them on two, actually, I
recently just swapped down to a 45cm Clem after admitting to myself the
52cm was too big, and I've tried the Billies on both. I like them best
flipped upside down, but my wrists are still pretty fussy after a couple
Gotta second the Soma New Xpress, those were great tires. Them and Schwalbe
Marathons are the only ones I've run on my commuting route that have gone
flat free, and the New Xpress ride much closer to the Compass stuff than my
current Mondials do. I've still got a set I'm not using since I
I used the Dia Compe friction bar ends on a Bosco for about two years,
liked it just fine, just watch your knees in tight turns. The long straight
stretch of grippable area really lets you just slide your hand back and
catch them with either your fingers or palm, it always felt very slick to
Tom, on neither the Bosco nor the Billie have I had problems with hitting
my knees in practice, even with the long bar end shifters. Both bars are
wide enough it's easy to keep my knees inside them during normal turning
range stuff. If I'm trying to do a standing 180 to reverse directions
I just drilled out the holes on my Surly racks mounting hardware a little
bit and bought a couple M6 bolts to mount mine on that top boss.
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Eric, just make sure you've got enough room, the Clem's pretty long
(especially riding it at the smallest saddle height like I do) and with my
10cm stem the bars still almost feel too close. If your Fuji is anything
like my old one, you'll probably need quite the stem to counter for them.
Eric, the catalog says it's a 1" rise/drop, so, I'll believe them on that.
Diego, laying my old Boscos as close to on top over the clamp as I can
manage, I'd say the Boscos come back about an inch more. Measuring, the
Billies are 8.5" straight before they bend as advertised. The Boscos are
Sorry, in lieu of the recent conversation about the state of things, I'm
one of the guys that's been quiet. Back when I was posting more I was in
the middle of planning my wedding and I think the stress made me a bit
snippy when I didn't mean to be, so, I backed out for a while. Which turned
I have come to love mine. I have the widest ones they sell on a 52cm Clem
using a 100mm stem, and the grips are perfect for me. I had some initial
problems, part of which were trying to use them like I did north roads and
albstaches and I quickly found out that wasn't going to work. I couldn't
Sorry. Dang phone. I of course meant I am trying the 584-40 A10s.
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Actually, Nokian/Suomi does make the A10 which is more commuting and less off
road oriented. I've used the 622-35 Scwalbe Winter Marathons on a previous bike
and am now trying the 574-40 Suomi A10s on my own Clem. The A10 has fewer
spikes than the Winter Marathon so not as grippy on ice but it
Not quite to all your needs sadly (it's primary component is neoprene), but
the snowmobiling 'Fog eVader' mask and some big old goggles are the only
thing I found which work on my deep winter commutes. My route is a rail
trail though, so, it's mostly 6 miles of head-wind I'm grunting against.
Sale pending
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Now that I have the 650b Clem and a pair of Nokian A10s coming from Peter
White I don't see myself using the old twitchy 700c hybrid as the winter
ride anymore, and that leaves me with a pair of Schwalbe Winter Marathons
I'd like to pass on to someone who could use them. 700c x 35mm, used a
I've never had good luck with braking power on mirror-finished rims. At
least, the VO ones were terrible for it. I think it's something in the
anodization that hardens them, they never seem to get their surface to
groove and seat properly. Low stopping power and lots of noise with 4
different
I got stopped the other month in my neighborhood by a guy in a car, who
rolled his window down to ask me something. I popped my headphone out
(which I often use in my neighborhood when off for a commute), expecting to
have to try and give some impromptu directions as that's what usually
Well, yanno, the Wright brothers were in bikes before they made planes...
;) They never get enough credit for reverse-threading the left pedal so it
stays tight over time.
But, on a more etymological level, cockpit is from boats first. It's where
the coxswain was, and was where navigation and
I rode the 38mm 650b New Xpress last year. Good ride, feel fast, not the best
at cornering but not awful, they were the only tire I've ever commuted on that
had zero flats while I ran them. Glad others have had less flats with Compass,
but I had the flats the first month I ran them and still
he Clem more?
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
>
> On 09/08/16, Zed Martinez<iamzedm...@gmail.com > wrote:
>
> John, she does say it's not the review itself. Just some initial thoughts
> since she's already had it so long while she tries to finish fig
ndered.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Thursday, September 8, 2016 at 6:57:18 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
>> pb - I use mine with a shorter stem (10cm, not 12 or 13cm) and don't have
>> any problem with flex. The long stems plus the Clem still slightly confu
pb - I use mine with a shorter stem (10cm, not 12 or 13cm) and don't have
any problem with flex. The long stems plus the Clem still slightly confuse
me for most uses, the whole reason for the extra length of the Clem's
effective top tube length I gathered from the long development history was
Hey again! I've been using a Topeak Road Morph G on mine, the provided
mounting bracket works a champ. I tried an HPX but couldn't find a
placement I liked on the Clem, and, if we're being honest, I like the mini
floor pump design of the Topeak better anyway.
And after I posted this I looked at the photo again and was reminded it got
bent when the bike fell over this week, so I went ahead and gave my
extension arm a new screw so I could show the extension too. It takes an
8/32 screw (I'm using a 3" one with two metal spacers and a nut to extend
If you have the mounting bracket off an old road-style brake lever body,
you can take the screw out of the insertion portion of the Mirrycle, saw
the tapered stem off, then get an appropriate bolt to go through the mirror
mount and into the brake clamp and tighten it down. I did basically that
I've got a grassy hill pretty similar to that one from the ride out here,
clearly I should make sure I have the nerve to descend it before I get out
there for a ride.
-Zed 'jealous of that idyllic scenery' Martinez
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:48:56 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Of
I work for a company that does internet and mail-order. We don't use USPS
for much of anything unless the customer signs off on it because even when
you have a tracking and guarantee they're not worth much if the package
gets lost or delayed, and delayed packages are much more the norm than not
OK, I remembered how to set my camera for intervals and once the lens
cleared up because dang it's humid out there, I got some shots of 1) my
setup as close to proper Riv non-wide angle level as I could in a hurry, so
you can see my relationship of saddle and stem height and all that goodness
Hey Patrick. I have a picture here for
reference: https://www.flickr.com/photos/zedmartinez/25692901481/
I use the usual primary grip area on mine for slow, casual, or street
riding. When I'm at crusing speed, I use the bend with the knobs. I am 100%
certain I would not enjoy using that grip
I'm running Switchbacks Mark, but mine's totally just noob mistakes. I
never pedal through turns, but I'd also never had a bike where I had to pay
any particular thought to raising the inside pedal before the turn. I mean,
I've scraped the end of a few before, but on the Clem that sucker just
>
> The further the wheels are apart the more likely that a bump or object can
> stick up between them and you pedal can hit it while it rotates around.
That actually sounds about right to me. Most of my pedal strikes have been
when cresting a short rise at a T onto the local trail that gets
I'd have to measure my roadster to compare, maybe I'll do so when I get
home. It's not a short bike, but not as long as the Clem certainly. I feel
like the BB drop plus the Sylvans is still most of it though, it's only
been a problem when I'm turning on a grade. With a BB drop of 67, and a
I gotta stop repyling to these things after a certain time of night ;)
Thanks for the grammar reminder. I think I meant people being *chafed* by
the idea of liners, and then I read your other post and my typing took a
detour on me.
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in the middle of your review, and I think it is very well done, but I
>> interrupt myself here to say:
>>
>> DON'T USE TIRE LINERS!!! My God, man! No tire liners on *Compass
>> tires* Use Orange Seal in your tubes instead.
>>
>> I very briefly used Mr Tuffys
>
> but I suppose Riv Riders tend to buy up as the years go by anyway
>
You know, I thought about this too, and the thing with the Clem is you
can't really buy up in the line from it, in a way. The Joe and Hunq are
both similar in their ways, but not really the same. The Joe is lighter and
1. Flat, mostly. Windy. Occasional hill.
2. Clem, Bosco, 100mm stem
2 again. Commuting and other vehicular cycling up to 60 miles a day on
occasion
3. The angle of my saddle basically forms a continuous line going into the
bars, so, bars a bit above saddle and ends of bars about even with saddle
After switching from my original albastache build to boscos a while back
and getting some more mileage and longer rides under me, I keep meaning to
do a proper medium-term write-up on the Clem and just kept being too busy
to do it. I finally had a quiet evening to sit down and apparently I had
An argument could possibly be made if using a steel handlebar in an
aluminum quill (or the other way around) to prevent, whas-called, galvanic
corrosion isn't it? The same reason forgetting to grease a quill adequately
can lead to it getting stuck in the steerer. In my case, yeah, just doing
March 18, 2016 at 1:48:17 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> David, I know. And someday, maybe. Next time the cables need replacing.
>> Put a lot of money on the card switching over to the Bosco cockpit as was
>> (and a month before my wedding, at that) just to keep t
I always do that anyway, Lungimsam. I bike year round in some wet schlock,
so I usually just slather the quill and wedge in grease and wipe off any
that gets squeegeed out. I've had to pull seized aluminum quills out of a
steel steerer before and it's certainly not an experience I'm eager to
Mine was just creaking is I light to moderately rested weight on the ends
of the bars while sitting. Not a major problem, for sure. But darn was it
getting under my skin. I found the old 25.4 quill I had in the same reach
(shorter quill, but hey, I was nearly slamming the Boscos anyway...) Got
; would be similar to.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 12:23:54 PM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> Just to pick the minds of y'all wonderful people. I'm trying Bosco
>> regulars on my Clem after a rough winter of strong headwinds proving the
>> alb
Just to pick the minds of y'all wonderful people. I'm trying Bosco regulars
on my Clem after a rough winter of strong headwinds proving the albastaches
and my wrists weren't getting along when used on the Clem. I already had a
100mm Technomic Deluxe around I'd use with the albas on a different
the Hillborne was introduced as a bike that is halfway between Homer and
>> Atlantis. Having ridden both, I think Homer is faster.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 13, 2016, at 6:19 PM, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> Wasn't the Hillborne more or less liter
Wasn't the Hillborne more or less literally just a Homer-like bike with the
expanded geo/fewer sizes and made in Taiwan things? That was the impression
I always got from the Readers when they announced them, anyway.
I wonder if the rider weight thing with the Chev is the step-through and
lack
the idea that our bodies can adapt to a pretty wide range of
> positions on a bicycle and still be efficient and more or less comfortable.
> In fact, the comfortability factor of the Boscos may be what is unnerving
> me a bit.
>
> On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 9:55:47 AM UTC-4, Zed Ma
Mark, the only reason I mention the bar/saddle height relationship thing is
because of my experience using it with the albastaches. The same theory from
the expanded sizing that lets the bars come back at you fast as they come up
thanks to slack head tubes also makes them go away from you fast
The newest Rivendell Reader had a handy-dandy table breaking down all their
current bikes they should really have on the site somewhere, it's a good,
quick overview for where the different models fall:
http://imgur.com/UPvCmy0
The Joe is more of a road touring model, and uses lighter tubing
Not a direct answer to the Pass & Stow specifically, but I use the Surly
Nice Rack on the front of my Clem with a couple front panniers and an Acorn
rando bag resting on top. I'm trying like one of Grant's bikes and just
living with all those on the bike. It seems to handle weight in the
' column,
fit-wise.
On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 7:04:29 AM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I have some thoughts on this, after a winter of various ugly wind
> conditions and trying to find the position I like best on my Clem. One is,
> the stack and reach if you measure them out
I have some thoughts on this, after a winter of various ugly wind
conditions and trying to find the position I like best on my Clem. One is,
the stack and reach if you measure them out on the Clems is not nearly as
extreme as the bikes look. Part of that whole 'expanded frame' notion. For
the
That oughtta be fun! I always felt the Clems were destined for some
all-roads rough stuff like the Hunqapillar myself (and evidenced by my own
Clem build). The stack/reach on them is actually oddly close to the specs
on a lot of adventure bikes and fat bikes, despite how different they look
>
>
> - WTH are 'Kwik Bitumen' tires? Extra points for getting 'bitumen' on a
> sidewall!
>
>
>
Kenda Kwik Bitumens? They're like Schwalbe's Delta Cruiser commuter tires,
is my impression. One of my boss's Cannondale Quick wears them too, so,
Riv's not the only one speccing them. Nothing
Hey, I like my khaki ones.
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 7:07:24 PM UTC-5, Neil wrote:
>
> Looks like all sizes of the Compass Bicycles riding knickers are back in
> stock, in gray (no more khaki, yay!). Supposedly some modest improvements
> over the last version. Mine should arrive
I'm using a Pinhead locking skewer on my Clem right now. As Riv warns, they
work, but you'll eventually chip the paint. In keeping with that Clemmy
spirit I decided that was an OK compromise, plus with my saddle bag always
hanging over it it's not like any touch-up paint in the future will be
Glad ya like it! And it does look quite sharp on your Atlantis. I've got
mine on my Clem, where I maybe could've gone with a slightly yellower tan,
but I was trying to match as many Rivvy colors as I could more or less, so
I think the way it came out is the way it needed
to.
>
> I'm still searching for the perfect 650b Clem tires. Saw someone call
> themselves the Emelda Marcos of bike tires and I could easily go that
> direction. I'm back to thinking something in the 38-40 range but nicer than
> the stock Kendra's. Compass, Kojack, Pari Moto? Anything you
Definitely add the Soma New Xpress to your list to look at, then. Made by
Panaracer with their Palsea tread, gumwalls. They're pretty darn light for
tough tires, and the kevlar alternative casing rode better than any
Schwalbe I have tried and was definitely not prone to picking up flats.
I like friction rear shifting because on modern hyperglide style cassettes
it's a lot easier to just skim across gears to the one I want out of the
stack, instead of having to click 3 or 4 times after every stop over the
course of just a few seconds. On my albastaches, I also like how it
I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The original concept
spec for the Clems also said either V or cantis worked great on it. I'm
using a standard Tektro binder bolt hanger on the rear and the Tektro
fork-mounted one on the front.
Matter o'fact, here's a canti'd Clementine from
albreaker, if I decide on
> buying it then v-brakes certainly would be fine. Just considering options.
> David
>
> On Thursday, January 28, 2016 at 10:08:18 AM UTC-6, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The original concept
>> sp
ear (like the Nitto or Surly) would allow for a more gradual curve in the
> housing under the seat.
>
> On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 10:08 AM, Zed Martinez <iamzedm...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I'm running cantilevers on my 52cm Clem just fine. The original concept
>> spec
Like Bill, wabi-sabi was the philosophy I knew of and work to embrace more.
Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, nothing is perfect.
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 7:19:13 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I would not call it a direct translation to Japanese, but the Japanese
> world view
Hey Pudge, see my first post in this thread for the address.
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 1:37:29 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:
>
> What's the address to send the self-addressed envelope and $$$ to?
>
>
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf
Thanks, Tim. And hey, for better or worse I consider 'no hands' to be the
fifth really good hand position on my albastches, a habit I picked up from
my Simcoe roadster which is so stable and so limited in hand grips that it
became habit for me to ride long stretches of the trail out here just
is group? Unlikely.
>
> dougP
>
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 6:31:30 PM UTC-8, Zed Martinez wrote:
>>
>> BikeSnob's. No leaking it to Grant, the Snob asked for some to give to
>> him himself, since it was his joke.
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 8:
Glad to see you finally got the rack sorted, Tim! Sorry to hear about your
girl and hope things are getting better. Sounds like it was a fun ride,
though. Wish I could help you more on the wobble thing... my 52cm with rack
only does the usual wobble at low speeds, and it cleans up as it goes. I
BikeSnob's. No leaking it to Grant, the Snob asked for some to give to him
himself, since it was his joke.
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 8:40:29 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> That's a great sticker Zed. Just to be clear, was it made with Grant's,
> BSNYCs, or both of their blessings?
--
You
Pierre, I know Bike Index is working to establish itself as an answer to Q1
of yours. I believe two separate efforts merged their resources together to
make it. I make sure all of my rides are registered with it, at any rate:
https://bikeindex.org/
On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 11:50:22 AM
, January 19, 2016 at 3:32:53 PM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I'm trying to find the link, I saw the results of a lab study on this just
> recently, but can't find it yet. If I recall, good carbon fiber is strong.
> Really strong. It outlasted the steel by a lot in the lab test. Even Grant
I'm trying to find the link, I saw the results of a lab study on this just
recently, but can't find it yet. If I recall, good carbon fiber is strong.
Really strong. It outlasted the steel by a lot in the lab test. Even Grant
has found this before, in their impromptu fork sword fight the CF one
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