[RBW] Re: TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[lconley]

Additional instructions on the RH website.
[image: 0.jpg]

Laing Conley

On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 8:02:25 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> FYI - The RH instructions say to inflate slowly and immediately deflate 
> the tubes completely after the tire pops into position, then reinflate.
>
> Laing Conley
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 7:53:30 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> I received mine from Rene Herse on Saturday, hope to get them mounted 
>> today on my Riv Custom - 650B x 48 Switchback Hill tires on Velocity Quill 
>> rims.  I currently have the lightweight Schwalbe butyl tubes.  I use Velo 
>> Plugs instead of rim tape. 
>> I like the smooth shiny silver stems. The blue caps will end up on the 
>> blue Frank Jones Sr. They were already sold out of the 700C x 44 or I would 
>> have put the TPU tubes on it also.  Another swig of the Kool-Aid.
>>
>> Laing Conley
>> Delray Beach FL
>>
>> On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 10:41:36 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Last evening I mounted a pair of WTB TPU inner tubes under 700c x 48mm 
>>> knobby RH tires. I was pleasantly surprised by how easily they mounted up 
>>> with just enough inflation to plump them a bit. Easier than any butyl tubes 
>>> I've ever used. 
>>>
>>> Today I took the bike out on my usual graveled forest service road 
>>> route, bleeding the front end down from 27 to 25 psi about 1/2 into the 
>>> ride  My first impression is that they  compare favorably to the ride feel 
>>> of a tubeless setup. 
>>>
>>> Before I sip the kool aid and start buying more of these things - given 
>>> the cost - I'm wondering if anyone has had long term experience with them 
>>> (not necessarily the WTB version).   Any punctures, did they patch 
>>> satisfactorily? Longevity? Your impressions of the quality?
>>>
>>>  I'll add that they dropped about 200 grams of ugly fat from the wheels 
>>> - but that wasn't my main objective.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[lconley]

FYI - The RH instructions say to inflate slowly and immediately deflate the 
tubes completely after the tire pops into position, then reinflate.

Laing Conley
Delray Beach FL

On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 7:53:30 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> I received mine from Rene Herse on Saturday, hope to get them mounted 
> today on my Riv Custom - 650B x 48 Switchback Hill tires on Velocity Quill 
> rims.  I currently have the lightweight Schwalbe butyl tubes.  I use Velo 
> Plugs instead of rim tape. 
> I like the smooth shiny silver stems. The blue caps will end up on the 
> blue Frank Jones Sr. They were already sold out of the 700C x 44 or I would 
> have put the TPU tubes on it also.  Another swig of the Kool-Aid.
>
> Laing Conley
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 10:41:36 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Last evening I mounted a pair of WTB TPU inner tubes under 700c x 48mm 
>> knobby RH tires. I was pleasantly surprised by how easily they mounted up 
>> with just enough inflation to plump them a bit. Easier than any butyl tubes 
>> I've ever used. 
>>
>> Today I took the bike out on my usual graveled forest service road route, 
>> bleeding the front end down from 27 to 25 psi about 1/2 into the ride  My 
>> first impression is that they  compare favorably to the ride feel of a 
>> tubeless setup. 
>>
>> Before I sip the kool aid and start buying more of these things - given 
>> the cost - I'm wondering if anyone has had long term experience with them 
>> (not necessarily the WTB version).   Any punctures, did they patch 
>> satisfactorily? Longevity? Your impressions of the quality?
>>
>>  I'll add that they dropped about 200 grams of ugly fat from the wheels - 
>> but that wasn't my main objective.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

[lconley]

I received mine from Rene Herse on Saturday, hope to get them mounted today 
on my Riv Custom - 650B x 48 Switchback Hill tires on Velocity Quill rims. 
 I currently have the lightweight Schwalbe butyl tubes.  I use Velo Plugs 
instead of rim tape. 
I like the smooth shiny silver stems. The blue caps will end up on the blue 
Frank Jones Sr. They were already sold out of the 700C x 44 or I would have 
put the TPU tubes on it also.  Another swig of the Kool-Aid.

Laing Conley
Delray Beach FL

On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 10:41:36 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

> Last evening I mounted a pair of WTB TPU inner tubes under 700c x 48mm 
> knobby RH tires. I was pleasantly surprised by how easily they mounted up 
> with just enough inflation to plump them a bit. Easier than any butyl tubes 
> I've ever used. 
>
> Today I took the bike out on my usual graveled forest service road route, 
> bleeding the front end down from 27 to 25 psi about 1/2 into the ride  My 
> first impression is that they  compare favorably to the ride feel of a 
> tubeless setup. 
>
> Before I sip the kool aid and start buying more of these things - given 
> the cost - I'm wondering if anyone has had long term experience with them 
> (not necessarily the WTB version).   Any punctures, did they patch 
> satisfactorily? Longevity? Your impressions of the quality?
>
>  I'll add that they dropped about 200 grams of ugly fat from the wheels - 
> but that wasn't my main objective.
>
> Steve
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Big Back Rack Medium 32R

[lconley]

SOLD!

On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 10:14:25 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> Here is a picture showing the difference in size:
>
> [image: Nitto 32R rack.jpg]
>
> Good luck with the sale Laing.
>
> On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 3:35:56 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Nitto Big Back Rack Medium 32R - mounted, but never used, several years 
>> old. Replaced with a new Large 33R - I will include the new unopened 
>> hardware bag with the medium rack. Note that it looks like the 33R and not 
>> the 32R as shown on Rivendell's website, but it is smaller than the 33R 
>> (not as long). $180 shipped CONUS.
>>
>> [image: IMG_3861.jpg]
>> Laing
>> Delray Beach FL
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Rene Herse Front Cable Hanger is back in stock!

[lconley]

Thank you for this PSA. I was on the list, but I had changed my phone 
number and email address since, so I did not get the notice. I was able to 
purchase 2 of the flat style, which is what I wanted. The grooved style was 
already sold out. Now they are all sold out, probably should have bought 4 
of them.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 3:52:27 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> In case anyone is interested. I put myself on the "alert" list for 
> restocking back in January of this year and had pretty much decided that it 
> would never be restocked, but it has been. Expensive but should add a 
> perfecting touch to the bike it's to be used on.
>
> I got one for the IGH Matthews which uses cantilevers. It has more drop 
> than other spacer-fit and very stiff hangers. I did look and at the 
> alternatives and found them wanting.
>
>
>
> [image: Rene Herse Cycles]
> It's back in stock! 
>
> “Rene Herse Front Cable Hanger” is available again. Quantities may still 
> be limited, though.
> [image: Rene Herse Front Cable Hanger] 
> Rene Herse Front Cable Hanger
> Shop Now 
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Re: [RBW] Bike Makeover Thread

[lconley]

Obviously, the saddle and grips must match. I have a Brooks Honey saddle 
and honey bar tape for my Custom.
I seem to remember something about not wearing white after Labor Day...

Secondarily, when I bought my 1st Rivendell Sam Hillborne it had a 27.2 
seapost, when I bought my 2nd Sam Hillborne it had a 26.8 seatpost, same 
outer diameter - 28.6. The 26.8 uses 0.9 thick tube and the 27.2 uses 0.7 
thick tube. Then there is the Bombadil with 0.8 thick tube and a 27.0 
seatpost (same as the Guv'nor). At one time, Grant obviously thought that 
0.7 was thick enough. I honed the Bombadil out to 27.15 or so with an 
automotive brake cylinder hone, so that I could use the Nitto Lugged 
seatpost. It took may hours and two sets of honing stones. I have since 
purchased a 27.2 reamer that I haven't used yet, but I cannot image it 
taking over an hour, or even half an hour to do the deed. Prep will take 
longer - removing the crank and bottom bracket and cleaning out the seat 
tube and re-coating with Boeshield.

Laing

On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 3:48:50 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> For the record, I think I was the first person that mentioned it and I 
> certainly didn't think it would take us down this whole path. :)
>
> I apologize for causing a distraction. I myself have not had it done (nor 
> do I want to) and was not really suggesting it, it was just a comment back 
> to Leah casually wishing that it took a 27.2 to increase the setback stem 
> options available to her. I know that others here have said they have done 
> it.
>
> On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 12:52:22 PM UTC-4 mathiass...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm late to the party here, but I can't believe there is a serious 
>> conversation about reaming out the seat tube enough to change seat post 
>> size.
>>
>> Rivendell does not, as far as I know, divulge their steel specifications, 
>> except to state that they mix & match material thicknesses as needed by 
>> model and size.
>>
>> But no matter the details, butted tubes come in 0.9/0.6/0.9 mm wall 
>> thickness and similar, with 1.0/0.8 considered stout.
>>  
>> Let's assume there's a reason for the "butting." It's really a "thinning" 
>> of the middle portion of the tube, as straight gauge tubing tends to be of 
>> the 1.0 mm variety all the way through.
>>
>> From a quick internet search, it appears that seat tubes are generally 
>> single butted, with the thin part pointing up... meaning we're leaving 0.6 
>> mm wall thickness at the seat post, assuming we started with 0.8 mm... 
>> Rivendell states they use air-hardened tubing, which can go as thin as 0.5 
>> mm wall thickness. 
>>
>> I'd have to hear it from a frame builder that they think it's OK. I don't 
>> believe it. 
>>
>> cheers -mathias
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 8:17:01 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> A few days ago Leah said: " Bill Lindsay - I would trust you to do it! 
>>> And I would drive to your part of Michigan if you had the tool to make it 
>>> happen! No pressure or anything. "
>>>
>>> I spend one week every month in Michigan but I live in a hotel room.  I 
>>> do not typically carry an adjustable seat tube reamer in my carry on 
>>> luggage.  :)  I also do not own an adjustable seat tube reamer, even though 
>>> I am plenty comfortable and experienced with its use*.  If I needed that 
>>> service performed, I'd pay one of the local old timers, who I know have the 
>>> tool and know how to use it.  
>>>
>>> *While I'm experienced with its use, I do not recall ever deliberately 
>>> reaming out a 26.8mm seat tube to 27.2.  It's always been in the initial 
>>> frame prep step, or a repair step.  I don't doubt that it can be done.  I 
>>> just don't have a good feel for how long it should take.  Like if it's a 2 
>>> hour job, and a tradesperson quoted you $160 for two hours of (strenuous) 
>>> labor, would you want to do it?  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>> On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 5:02:54 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 John, 
 My seatpost actually has setback to 50. I have my saddle at 42 or 43. 
 Now that I have these new grips, I could try the old seat post. The new 
 grips sit further up the bars and I have more reach now. The feeling of 
 being cramped was fairly slight, and I could often ignore it, but it was 
 one of those little niggling details I wanted improved. Some people would 
 have chopped their Billie Bars - not me! I need all that real estate 
 so 
 keep 1000 things on my bars!

 Eric, I know. I have had this exact thought. Bill Lindsay - I would 
 trust you to do it! And I would drive to your part of Michigan if you had 
 the tool to make it happen! No pressure or anything. 

 Joseph! Oh why bother getting it in silver? Such a magnificent seat 
 post deserves to be a focal point: I should just go with the black. 

 Joyce, there’s a woman in product design over at 1 

[RBW] Re: Did Charlie Gallop lose its swoopy top tube?

[lconley]

Reminds me of a certain gray and red Rivendell Custom.

Laing

On Tuesday, August 22, 2023 at 7:05:09 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> I mean...thats lugged and has a cream headtube. I don't care what the 
> decal says, that can't be a Gallop.
>
> On Tuesday, August 22, 2023 at 6:33:36 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>
>> From the Blue Lug instagram post, it seems like a proto Charlie with a 
>> straight top tube at RivHQ:
>>
>> [image: IMG_1965.jpg]
>>
>> [image: IMG_1966.jpg]
>>
>> Max
>>
>> PS. Apologies for the bad photo quality but it's hard to grab a post from 
>> a video in IG.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Builder

[lconley]

I almost always build my own wheels, but you cannot go wrong with either 
Rich Lesnik (Rivendell / Hands On Wheels) or Peter White. I have had wheels 
from both, and they were flawless. Not local to you though, west coast and 
east coast respectively.

I use Velocity or Velo Orange rims; Phil Wood, White Industries, Paul, 
Curtis Odom or classic Campagnolo hubs (Nuovo Record or Tipo); and 
Wheelsmith (out of production but still out there) or Sapim spokes. Most of 
my wheels are now 40 and 48 spoke, but I do have quite a few 36 and even a 
couple 32s.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 9:13:50 AM UTC-4 Josh C wrote:

> I could use a recommendation for a good wheel builder. I've used 
> prowheelbuilder.com in the past and have no complaints. Not sure how I 
> landed on them. Just curious if there is another business that I should be 
> looking into? I'm located in Indianapolis as well, and would prefer sending 
> business to a local or at least midwest company if possible.  
>
> I'm looking for a set of 700c wheels for my Atlantis. I'm thinking I'll do 
> velocity cliffhangers with a SON up front and a nice rear hub. The rear is 
> not yet totally decided as I like quiet hubs but there are not many options 
> in rim brake, 36-40h hubs these days. I've got an onyx silent hub on my 
> crust and love it but they only go up to 32h and I'd prefer 36 or 40 as I'm 
> a big dude. Which is why I'm thinking about a white industry (loud as they 
> come) rear hub in 36 or 40h. 
>
> Anyway. I'd like to hear about your preferred wheel builders. 
>

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[RBW] Re: A College Clem

[lconley]

That looks like mine on the right - a P-15 in Kool Lemon, but with the 
Schwinn branded Shimano RD. I didn't have any shoes, I rode it barefooted. 
It was basically the only thing I owned, other than a couple pairs of pants 
and T-shirts. The good old days.

Laing

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 2:05:19 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I would love to have a nicely appointed Paramount as a college ride! 
>
> My friend had a big 70s Schwinn in college and he would ride it down 
> stairs on campus like those pictured below! 
>
> [image: 1972_07.jpg]
>
> On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 8:16:48 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> A hard question. 50 years ago, I left for college and rode a Gitane Tour 
>> de France (Reynolds 531 frame, silk sew-up tires, mostly Campagnolo 
>> components) to class. I locked it up in the bushes (bike racks were not a 
>> thing at that point in time) and carried my books in my Boy Scout Yucca 
>> backpack. Two years later I was hit by an on-duty police officer. The frame 
>> was bent, but I was unhurt. I used the money that I got from the officer 
>> and selling the parts to buy a Schwinn Paramount P-15 (Reynold 531 frame, 
>> all Campagnolo except for the brakes). I continued to ride the Paramount to 
>> class until I graduated in 1978. When I went back to college from 1982 
>> until 1987, I rode the Paramount, but now I had racks and bags and fenders 
>> and a bottom bracket mounted Sanyo generator. By this time there were bike 
>> racks to lock it to. I never locked the bike at night, I kept it inside at 
>> night. I still have the Paramount.
>>
>> I might not do the same today for one basic reason - battery powered 
>> cutters with carbide blades, available cheap from your local Harbor Freight 
>> store. They can cut through anything. 
>>
>> The basic strategy today seems to be to make your bike look worse that 
>> the other bikes in the rack and better locked. Rustoleum makes peel-off 
>> paint that you could camouflage the bike with (make it ugly and look rusty, 
>> add a few stickers), paint the stem, handlebars, hubs, some of the spokes 
>> and seatpost (I would avoid Barbie pink for the time being).  Peel it off 
>> after college to find the pristine Rivendell paint and aluminum below. You 
>> could even peel off the paint and change paint schemes occasionally. Riding 
>> a Rivendell *is* better than riding an ordinary bike.
>>
>> Laing
>> Delray Beach FL
>>
>> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 10:54:39 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to 
>>> college in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that leaves 
>>> buses, bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have grown 
>>> up riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who 
>>> doesn’t ride, sigh). 
>>>
>>> My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 
>>> 2020, and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into it. 
>>> I lugged the gargantuan box up from the basement last week to see how if 
>>> the bike would fit. “Now that I’ve obtained optimal height,” my son is fond 
>>> of saying… 
>>>
>>> Anyway, he’s 6’1” now (likely still growing) and I need him to decide if 
>>> he wants to stick with his old Clem H (that he was fond of) or settle into 
>>> this Clem L. Because whichever bike he chooses is getting new wheels, dyno 
>>> and fenders and going to college with him. At first he was opposed to the 
>>> idea of a new Clem; he liked his old Clem, thought it looked cool. But 
>>> after the - as he calls it - Big Bike was assembled, he really began to 
>>> like it. “It looks elegant,” he said. It really does, all long and lithe, 
>>> in blue and silver. He put his saddle and bags on the bike and we test rode 
>>> it tonight. He said, “I am really liking the Big Bike. I like that my knees 
>>> don’t have anything to hit (geez, were his knees hitting his bars?!) and it 
>>> looks elegant. It feels more at home now that I have my old saddle on it.” 
>>>
>>> I have mixed feelings about sending him to college with this bike, 
>>> because it’s so nice. I also doubt he’ll be able to get it on a bus bike 
>>> rack - and I have no idea how often he will want to do that. His bike life 
>>> is totally unknown at this point. All I know is that I’m getting him dyno 
>>> because the kid has never remembered to charge a light in his LIFE and I 
>>> will not sleep at night without it.Th

[RBW] Re: A College Clem

[lconley]

A hard question. 50 years ago, I left for college and rode a Gitane Tour de 
France (Reynolds 531 frame, silk sew-up tires, mostly Campagnolo 
components) to class. I locked it up in the bushes (bike racks were not a 
thing at that point in time) and carried my books in my Boy Scout Yucca 
backpack. Two years later I was hit by an on-duty police officer. The frame 
was bent, but I was unhurt. I used the money that I got from the officer 
and selling the parts to buy a Schwinn Paramount P-15 (Reynold 531 frame, 
all Campagnolo except for the brakes). I continued to ride the Paramount to 
class until I graduated in 1978. When I went back to college from 1982 
until 1987, I rode the Paramount, but now I had racks and bags and fenders 
and a bottom bracket mounted Sanyo generator. By this time there were bike 
racks to lock it to. I never locked the bike at night, I kept it inside at 
night. I still have the Paramount.

I might not do the same today for one basic reason - battery powered 
cutters with carbide blades, available cheap from your local Harbor Freight 
store. They can cut through anything. 

The basic strategy today seems to be to make your bike look worse that the 
other bikes in the rack and better locked. Rustoleum makes peel-off paint 
that you could camouflage the bike with (make it ugly and look rusty, add a 
few stickers), paint the stem, handlebars, hubs, some of the spokes and 
seatpost (I would avoid Barbie pink for the time being).  Peel it off after 
college to find the pristine Rivendell paint and aluminum below. You could 
even peel off the paint and change paint schemes occasionally. Riding a 
Rivendell *is* better than riding an ordinary bike.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 10:54:39 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to college 
> in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that leaves buses, 
> bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have grown up 
> riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who 
> doesn’t ride, sigh). 
>
> My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 2020, 
> and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into it. I 
> lugged the gargantuan box up from the basement last week to see how if the 
> bike would fit. “Now that I’ve obtained optimal height,” my son is fond of 
> saying… 
>
> Anyway, he’s 6’1” now (likely still growing) and I need him to decide if 
> he wants to stick with his old Clem H (that he was fond of) or settle into 
> this Clem L. Because whichever bike he chooses is getting new wheels, dyno 
> and fenders and going to college with him. At first he was opposed to the 
> idea of a new Clem; he liked his old Clem, thought it looked cool. But 
> after the - as he calls it - Big Bike was assembled, he really began to 
> like it. “It looks elegant,” he said. It really does, all long and lithe, 
> in blue and silver. He put his saddle and bags on the bike and we test rode 
> it tonight. He said, “I am really liking the Big Bike. I like that my knees 
> don’t have anything to hit (geez, were his knees hitting his bars?!) and it 
> looks elegant. It feels more at home now that I have my old saddle on it.” 
>
> I have mixed feelings about sending him to college with this bike, because 
> it’s so nice. I also doubt he’ll be able to get it on a bus bike rack - and 
> I have no idea how often he will want to do that. His bike life is totally 
> unknown at this point. All I know is that I’m getting him dyno because the 
> kid has never remembered to charge a light in his LIFE and I will not sleep 
> at night without it.The 52 takes 650b wheels and the 59 takes 700c, so I 
> don’t want to buy the wheels until I know which bike he really wants. But 
> as of now, he wants his new bike.
>
> I know people will say we should just get a beater. I know why that would 
> be advisable, but I also hate to think of a Clem languishing when it could 
> be serving a noble purpose. I’d love for him and his Clem to journey 
> through undergrad together.
>
> I am wondering…has anyone gone to college or sent their kid to college 
> with a Clem? What do you have to say about it? Photos in the next post…
> Leah
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Build Opinions

[lconley]

$91 shipping charge for the Chocomoose from Blue Lug - total of $176.20 - 
big awkward box no doubt. They were in stock at Rivendell until a month or 
two ago. I had been thinking about trying some out, and then they were 
gone. I have fillet-brazed Boscomoose and Bullmoose, and I also love the 
solid feel of the one piece bar and stem combos.

Laing

On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 1:00:03 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> In my opinion, the bars that the very first Appaloosas originally came 
> with are still the best choice:  Choco-moose.  I don't understand the 
> supply-chain realities, but here we are with Riv listing them at $210 and 
> out of stock, but Blue Lug sells them for $85.20 and they are in stock.  
> There is no question that is the bar I would run on an Appaloosa.  
>
> There are many flavors of handwringers, though.  One flavor of handwringer 
> would wring hands over not being able to adjust the angle of a Moose bar.  
> Another flavor of handwringer would wring hands over an independent Choco 
> bar being too flexy.  I'm the second kind, and LOVE the rock solid feel of 
> the Choco moose.  When I had an Appaloosa, I needed to slam that stem to 
> get them as low as I wanted.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 7:08:44 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Got my Appa on Monday, built it yesterday and commuted to work on it 
>> today. First impressions are that it's exactly what I had hoped for. The 
>> ride is amazing and it feels so plush while still remaining responsive; 
>> nimble yet stable. But I think it could still be better and I want to 
>> channel the wisdom of the group.
>>
>> Currently, I have the bike built with drop bars (50cm V/O Randonneur). 
>> However, I know this frame, like many of the Riv frames, is really built 
>> with swept back bars in mind. Knowing this, I went with a stem that's about 
>> half my "typical" length. Unfortunately, it still feels like quite a reach 
>> to get on the hoods, not impossible, but not "normal". So, this is where my 
>> question starts:
>>
>> Do I continue to try shortening the stem, say to maybe 30-40mm, or do I 
>> give in to my swept bar destiny and spring for some new bars? And if I go 
>> with sweeps, which bars do people like on the Appa? I have 65mm Tosco bars 
>> on my Gus and it's wonderful on that bike, but being that I don't want to 
>> be quite so upright (and there's not quite as much room) on the Appa. I was 
>> thinking of going with either Billie or Albatross bars. The two are so 
>> similar, however, that I'm having a hard time deciding between the two. I'm 
>> probably splitting hairs, as usual, but I'm genuinely curious to see what 
>> y'all think.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Most Discreet Bell Placement

[lconley]

I have considered buying two of them and using them as the finishing tape 
for the handlebar tape. - actual bell body forward of the handlebar.

Laing

On Wednesday, June 28, 2023 at 12:25:34 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:

> Here's nice image of most discreet placement of the best looking, smartly 
> engineered richest sounding, bicycle bell *ever* made. That's my story 
> and I'm sticking to it  *;  )*
>
> Jock
>
> [image: IMG_0810.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[lconley]

#5 - I believe that most generator powered headlight beams were designed to 
project from just above the wheel (rack or fender or fork crown mount), as 
that is sort of constant within a short range. Handlebar heights can vary 
greatly and can end up with the light pointed down too much.
The handlebar mounted battery lights would be an obvious exception to this.

Try these:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.php
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/plight.php

Also explore the rest of Peter White's site - most everything you need to 
know about bicycle lighting is there.

Laing

On Saturday, June 24, 2023 at 1:43:18 AM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hello all, I have an update and some questions.
>
> This afternoon I installed the headlight and finished a few details. After 
> sunset I went for a ride, and I was amazed at the brightness and throw of 
> the new headlight and taillight!
>
> However, I have a few questions for people familiar with the SON dynamo 
> and Schmidt Edelux II:
>
> 1: Once the bike is moving, the 0, S, and 1 switch positions do not 
> function. I can turn the lights on, but not off. What’s the story here?
>
> 2: When I ride with the headlight switch in the “S” position, the light is 
> dim and flickers. Is that normal?
>
> 3: When I got home and put the bike away, the lights remained on for 
> several minutes, regardless of the switch position. Is that normal?
>
> 4: The light shape on the ground is sort of a trapezoid, surrounded by a 
> less-bright circle. Is that the way the light beam was designed?
>
> 5: My headlight is mounted on my handlebars; most headlights I’ve seen are 
> mounted at the fork crown or on a front rack. What is the advantage of 
> mounting the light lower and closer to the front wheel? If my headlight is 
> mounted on the handlebars, am I reducing the efficacy of the light? 
>
> 6: The light is illuminating approximately ten to twenty feet of road in 
> front of me. What is the correct position for the light? Should I aim the 
> light higher or lower?
>
> Below are some photos from this evening’s ride. As always, your wisdom, 
> experience, and advice are welcomed and appreciated.
> [image: IMG_9244-2.jpg]
> The throw and brightness of the Edelux is amazing.
>
> [image: IMG_9285-2.jpg]
> Here's the trapezoid light shape, surrounded by a circle.
>
> [image: IMG_9266-2.jpg]
> The woods are lovely, dark, and deep, but I have promises to keep...
>
> [image: IMG_9304-2.jpg]
> ...and miles to go before I sleep.
>
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

Then there are also those with really, really long torsos, that need a long 
stem *and* lots of setback on the seatpost; or a custom frame.
Also remember that a Brooks saddle sometimes needs a longer setback 
seatpost to put you in the same location relative to the pedals as another 
type of saddle on a normal seatpost; no longer stem will help that.

Laing 

On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 3:22:38 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> + another for Garth's point (and many others make it too, including PJW in 
> his very good article on bike fitting) that you first set up your saddle in 
> relation to the cranks in order to get both good "balance" (with sufficient 
> setback that your torso muscles support the torso's weight, and so that 
> this support is not left to hands and arms and shoulders), and good power 
> or torque on the pedals (too far forward and you lose power, IME -- Grant 
> cured me of an all-the-way forward saddle, long story, by saying, "move 
> your saddle back and down").
>
> And of course all rules are merely starting points.
>
> No setback seatposts make sense on a bike like this; you even see 
> seatposts with forward "setback" or perhaps "set-forward," but look at 
> those seat tube angles!
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 12:24 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>
>> Perhaps another bit of information to muddy the waters is the Analog 
>> Cycles perspective that straight (no setback) seatposts make no sense, 
>> except for frames (like theirs) that have relatively slack seat tubes. Like 
>> our Riv’s.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

With a 80.5 cm long saddle height, a 71.5 deg ST angle will put the top of 
the saddle inline with the seat tube 0.67 cm (0.26") behind the center of 
the top of a 72 deg ST angle seat tube. And 0.22 cm (0.09") lower.

Laing

On Thursday, June 22, 2023 at 10:44:15 AM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Thanks for the tip Garth, unfortunately I went to place the order that day 
> and after almost a week, I got notified that they're out of stock for a 
> couple of months... I guess I'll need to wait because everyone seems to be 
> out of stock.
>
> On a separate note, does anyone have any thoughts on my question above 
> regarding 71.5 vs 72 seat tube angles? Assuming the same saddle height, 
> shouldn't the 71.5 put me further away (horizontally)  from the BB? I'm 
> just wondering if I need to bring my saddle forward instead of backwards!
>
> Thanks again
> Max who is keeping his Gallop and tinkering with it some more - I'm 
> swapping the bar mounted shifters to barends to gain more space on my 
> handlebar
>
> On Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 4:44:53 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> It's the same post Max, there's only the one IRD Wayback post. Riv would 
>> get their supply from Merry Sales, the parent company/wholesaler of IRD and 
>> Soma. They have frequent weekend discounts and at this time IRD is included 
>> in the brands of the sale. The code and brands included are on the home 
>> page. Their payment options are limited to just two cards, fwiw. 
>>
>>
>> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/ird-seatpost-wayback-2418?category=987#attr=539,4002,3304
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[lconley]

I have only owned the bike for eight years. It had a defective stem 
(handlebars were tilted) and a defective front derailleur and had evidently 
been put in the back of a shop and forgotten about. Someone in North 
Carolina found it and sold it to me. I disassembled the bike and and 
sprayed the inside with frame-saver. I replace the stem with an NOS PIVO 
stem, determined that the front derailleur's problem was mounting bolts 
that were too long that had cracked the body of the derailleur. I replaced 
with another NOS Simplex derailleur. I added some loose ball bearings to 
the headset - I think it was missing about 7. Re-greased and adjusted the 
BB. I rewrapped the handlebars with the old black cloth tape after 
replacing the stem (not original, but dealers usually rewrapped the 
handlebars in black because the original white tape started to show dust 
and dirt just from sitting. I even bought a 50 foot roll of the original 
style brake cable housing. You can tell that the bike had never been ridden 
because the original sew-up rims have never been glued to a sew-up. I rode 
the bike with a set of clincher wheels on it. The inner cables are all 
original. I had the original steel seatpost re-chromed. I found some 
matching paint at the local hobby store and toched up chips in the paint - 
mostly around the seat lug. I recently waxed the original chain.
Back in 72 I had bought a used Tour de France, same size but in white with 
silk sew-up tires. The frame was too tall for me, but that was the only way 
to get a long enough top tube. I rode it to high school, I rode it on club 
rides, I rode it to college in Tallahassee, Atlanta and Gainesville. I rode 
it back and forth from Gainesville to Daytona Beach (miles) multiple times. 
Then one day in 75, an on on-duty police officer broadsided me in the 
crosswalk. He paid for the damage and I bought my Schwinn Paramount P-15 
(still have it), but the Tour de France was always special to me and when 
this one came along I jumped at the chance. It is orange after all (as is 
my Rivendell Custom).
The early seventies were a bike boom time and the French were cashing in as 
fast as they could - No telling exactly what components would come on a 
bike - my original TdF had Campagnolo dropouts (same as the Paramount), but 
this one has Simplex dropouts. The brazing of the lugs is sloppy, the paint 
is thin and the foil decals are very fragile - very crude next to a 
Rivendell, but there is just something about French frames that makes them 
ride beautifully. French stems are notoriously fragile (and short). So it 
is kind of my museum piece at this point. I do think about gluing some fat 
Rene Herse sew-ups to the rims, putting a Nitto stem and bars on it and 
riding it in a Eroica ride one of these days (maybe after I retire). I also 
have a nice Ideale leather saddle for it.

Laing

On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 9:54:13 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Laing, you take the cake for being precious! You have a bike that is 50 
> years old and was only ridden once? I’m going to get a tee shirt made for 
> you!
>
> I have been rather hard on the old gal lately - my most precious bike is 
> getting a ton of miles this summer. She’s dirty and gritty and starting to 
> make noises that will need bike shop attention.  I have a stupid goal this 
> week and I might pull it off. I’ll ride group/club rides all week, and 
> still keep up my weights, core, and running. I usually only do 2-3 club 
> rides/week. I got my 2nd one done tonight and I’m TIRED. And because this 
> is my club ride bike, all the miles will be this Platy’s. Tomorrow is a 
> brewery ride and I don’t know what the lock-up situation is because they 
> don’t reveal where we are going until we’re on the way. Might get some 
> fresh scratches tomorrow! Practicing not being precious.
>
> I put a Cateye Quick on my Platypus today. It looks dumb but I really 
> wanted to start calculating mileage over this bike’s lifetime. I don’t 
> think I can keep up to Pam Murray with her 72,000 mi on her 2011 Betty, but 
> since this bike is my lifetime bike, I want to know how many miles we 
> travel. Plus, as Pam pointed out, you can figure out how many miles you are 
> getting out of your components. She has a logbook and tracks hers.
>
> To bed! Work at 6 am, brewery ride at 6 pm!
> Leah
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 20, 2023, at 6:44 PM, lconley  wrote:
>
> Forgot the picture:
>
> 
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 6:37:52 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Ahh, the mysterious pleasures of French frames. I have a 52 year old 
>> Gitane Tour de France - with an all Reynolds 531 frame. The French would 
>> use the top tube as the seat tube and the seat tube as the top tube from 
>> the tubeset resulting in the requirements of oversized brake cable clamps 
>> on 

Re: [RBW] Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[lconley]

Ahh, the mysterious pleasures of French frames. I have a 52 year old Gitane 
Tour de France - with an all Reynolds 531 frame. The French would use the 
top tube as the seat tube and the seat tube as the top tube from the 
tubeset resulting in the requirements of oversized brake cable clamps on 
the top tube (or just longer screws) and front derailleurs that needed 
smaller clamps for the seat tube. I found Rivendell years ago when looking 
for French frames. The 58 cm Gitane Tour de France frame weighs 7 lb. 5 oz. 
with Stronglight headset, Stronglight bottom bracket and fully Weigle Frame 
Savered - lighter than a 47 cm Roadini. All of the derailleur cable clamps, 
FD, and shifters are bolt on and the RD hanger is not part of the dropout, 
so it would make a very clean single speed, but given that it is an only 
ridden once, NOS bicycle, I haven't been able to bring myself to do it, 
talk about being precious!

Laing

On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 6:17:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> What are those Rivs, and why do you choose the PX-10 instead of them? What 
> sort of riding?
>
> I love Rivendell, but I'll not allow ideological purity to keep me from 
> choosing other bikes that please me better. Only, the very best bike of all 
> the scores that I've owned over the last 25 years is that 1999 Joe Starck 
> custom, and if I had the money I'd order a custom Legolas except without 
> the Legolas features to make it a as-light-tubed-as-possible gofast 
> derailleur road bike, and perhaps a customized Clem to take 700C X 3" tires.
>
>
>
> I liked that Motobecane, but the expensive Riv custom once converted to 
> commuting and errand duties was even more fun for utility riding, and the 
> Chauncey Matthews replacement for that Riv is even more fun for the same 
> purpose.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 3:21 PM Ryan  wrote:
>
>> Yes indeed. My 50-year old PX-10 is still being ridden  as a 
>> single-speed   . Much more than my Rivendells I'm afraid. Might soon be 
>> time to release those precious Rivendells
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mid-build Frustrations—Trek Elance 400

[lconley]

If Tektro long reach R559 sidepulls are not long enough, Dia-Compe/Weinmann 
750 centerpulls are a touch longer. Weinmann also had a 810 sidepull 
(probably Dia-Compe also). If longer is needed, try BMX brakes on eBay, 
they can be 96 reach or more. Just about any brake is good enough on the 
rear - just make sure to use narrow short length brake shoes and position 
the brake shoes as low as possible so that brake arm flex doesn't allow 
them to hit the tire. 
Rene Herse centerpulls are good for 80 reach, so Mafac Raids may also be 
available that long - bolt-on Rene Herse centerpulls use a Mafac Raid 
backing plate. The Rene Herse are expensive, but have the least flex of 
long reach brakes.

Love those Shimano Mega-range freewheels - I use the 14-34 7speed -> $18 at 
Rivendell.

Agree that bolt-on cable stops work just fine.

Laing

On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 1:50:47 AM UTC-4 lkbr...@gmail.com wrote:

> [image: CF9652D0-F42E-44B2-9633-B95212D1ACD3.jpeg]Greetings, Bunch! I 
> have been working on a mid-80s Trek Elance 400 build, from the frame up (no 
> fork included). I’ll break down the build below, but I’m looking for a 
> little encouragement to get this bike finished up. Let me know how you 
> relate to my experience and your approach to building a bike and other 
> complex situations in life. 
>
> I’ve been collecting parts for a few months, and now I’ve started 
> assembling them, somewhat aimlessly. Now that I have most all the parts I 
> am finding that they require some effort to be well adjusted and 
> refurbished (to be expected, I know; typically my favorite part of bike 
> hobby— tinkering). I also began a mentorship with a local frame builder 
> recently, so I planned to add cantilever posts, another pair of bottle 
> bosses, and cable stops (like Steve Frey’s “Frek“ rando bikes), but I’ve 
> been too busy to schedule another workshop. At this point I just want to 
> ride! 
>
> 1985 ish Trek Elance 400 (23”/60cm, iirc)
> Crust Lightning Bolt fork (XL, extra threads cut)
> SOMA Weymouth rims (650b) with SP dynamo and Raleigh high flange 
> freewheel
> Paul Neo Retro cantilever 
> La Prade seat post, my first Selle Anatomica
> Front derailer tbd, Ultegra cranks, 105 rear derailer, cheapy ultra wide 
> range freewheel
> Campy Brevet headset
> Nitto Noodle bar, Technomic stem, and mini front rack
>
> Need to look for a long reach rear brake or get those canti mounts going, 
> find front derailer, and figure out how to get the rear shift cable through 
> the internal routing of the chain stay.
>
> Sincerely, 
> Hopalong
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: The maxium tire size for a 52cm Clem Smith Jr. "L"

[lconley]

I have put 27.5 x 2.4 Schwalbe Super Moto-X on Velocity Cliffhangers on my 
52 cm Clementine, WITH Honjo Flat 65 fenders. 

Laing

On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 10:30:04 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> without fenders...
>
> On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-7 Kim Hetzel wrote:
>
>> I am asking for a friend..
>>
>> What is the maximum tire size for a 52cm Clem Smith Jr. "L" frame set ?
>>
>> Thank-you.
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

The hex size and bolt size are not necessarily related. I would say that it 
is more likely to be an 8 than a 7. You need to take the your bolt in and 
have it matched for thread diameter, thread pitch (the number of threads 
for a specified length), and threaded length, but in a magnetic material - 
you should take the Hexlox as well. The only 7 mm bolts that I have ever 
seen are the Nitto seatpost bolts - it is a rarely used size, which is why 
hardware stores don't carry them.

Laing

On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 8:59:11 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> Laing, the hex key size is 6, so that means I need a 7 mm bolt, then? And 
> did I read correctly that hardware stores don’t carry the 7? Why???
>
> The post is certainly not perfect. I wish I could slam it, but I can’t 
> because it widens at the top. It will just barely work for me, and as I get 
> older over the coming decades I wonder if I will need to decrease the 
> height. Then there’s the bolt. Then there’s the worry that the seat post 
> will slip - I haven’t ridden it enough to say for sure that the company 
> fixed the defect.
>
> But, hey, for 30% off you might want to try it!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 19, 2023, at 8:50 AM, lconley  wrote:
>
> The bolt is probably 304 stainless-steel, which is an austenitic 
> stainless-steel and not magnetic. Ace hardware stores usually have a good 
> selection of metric hardware. Note that they do not have 7mm threaded bolts 
> (thread size, not Allen key size) which is what two bolt Nittos usually 
> use, not sure what size the IRD has. Probably bigger than a seven because 
> it is a single bolt.
>
>
> I am thinking about getting one of the IRD seatposts for my Rosco Bubbe 
> V1, I haven't ream the seat tube yet.. Rivendell is out of stock on the 
> silver 26.8, but Soma has them and has IRD stuff 30% off today.. Certainly 
> less expensive than a lugged Nitto.
>
> Laing
>
> On Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 6:57:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Guys, here’s an interesting thing. 
>>
>> I am still getting used to my new IRD seat post and figuring out where I 
>> want it. (I’ve been traveling, and I’ve been using my other bikes for 
>> things so the Racing Platypus hasn’t gotten all the usual miles.) Tonight, 
>> I moved the saddle to 40mm, so let’s see if that’s the sweet spot.
>>
>> But that’s not interesting. What IS interesting is that the bolt on the 
>> seat post must not be magnetic. I have Hexlox, a funny little thief-blocker 
>> that stops anyone from taking a hex key to my saddle or seat post. But the 
>> Hexlox keeps falling out and luckily, sticking to my frame, where I find it 
>> later. 
>>
>> So, I will have to see if there is an identical bolt except magnetic, 
>> lest my ivory Rivet be at risk.
>>
>> Leah
>>
>>
>> On Jun 18, 2023, at 8:00 AM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Leah,
>>
>> I am unable to the IRD "Wayback" seat post in my Clem Smith Jr. "L" 
>> bicycle, because the construction of the post widens too much at the top of 
>> the post underneath the length of the adjustment rail, unlike the SR 
>> MTE-100 seat post. I bought an IRD "Wayback" seat post off of Craigslist 
>> last year for a good price, only to find that it did not work for my needs. 
>> I sold it to a friend of mine. 
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA. 
>>
>> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 8:51:15 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Well, that’s hopeful!
>>>
>>> I got mine today, too. I have it installed and I slammed it as far as it 
>>> will go and it will just barely work for me. I sized up in my Platypus 
>>> frame so I have very little seatpost showing. This seat post cannot be 
>>> slammed all the way because it widens at the top. But I think this will 
>>> work and be a good thing. I dread moving my saddle around and tipping it 
>>> this way or that. But I hope to get it perfect in the next few days and 
>>> then I’ll give it a review.
>>> L
>>>
>>> On Jun 2, 2023, at 11:37 PM, st nick  wrote:
>>>
>>> I heard back from my friend  Jim who received and mounted the revised 
>>> IRC seatpost.
>>>
>>>
>>> Here's what he said:
>>>
>>> Paul in Dallas 
>>>
>>>
>>> "Received it 2 days ago. Long ride yesterday and it is a game changer! 
>>> No slippage….my Roadini is now dialed in. Can’t wait to ride it again."
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message 

Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

The bolt is probably 304 stainless-steel, which is an austenitic 
stainless-steel and not magnetic. Ace hardware stores usually have a good 
selection of metric hardware. Note that they do not have 7mm threaded bolts 
(thread size, not Allen key size) which is what two bolt Nittos usually 
use, not sure what size the IRD has. Probably bigger than a seven because 
it is a single bolt.

I am thinking about getting one of the IRD seatposts for my Rosco Bubbe V1, 
I haven't ream the seat tube yet.. Rivendell is out of stock on the silver 
26.8, but Soma has them and has IRD stuff 30% off today.. Certainly less 
expensive than a lugged Nitto.

Laing

On Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 6:57:58 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> Guys, here’s an interesting thing. 
>
> I am still getting used to my new IRD seat post and figuring out where I 
> want it. (I’ve been traveling, and I’ve been using my other bikes for 
> things so the Racing Platypus hasn’t gotten all the usual miles.) Tonight, 
> I moved the saddle to 40mm, so let’s see if that’s the sweet spot.
>
> But that’s not interesting. What IS interesting is that the bolt on the 
> seat post must not be magnetic. I have Hexlox, a funny little thief-blocker 
> that stops anyone from taking a hex key to my saddle or seat post. But the 
> Hexlox keeps falling out and luckily, sticking to my frame, where I find it 
> later. 
>
> So, I will have to see if there is an identical bolt except magnetic, lest 
> my ivory Rivet be at risk.
>
> Leah
>
>
> On Jun 18, 2023, at 8:00 AM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Leah,
>
> I am unable to the IRD "Wayback" seat post in my Clem Smith Jr. "L" 
> bicycle, because the construction of the post widens too much at the top of 
> the post underneath the length of the adjustment rail, unlike the SR 
> MTE-100 seat post. I bought an IRD "Wayback" seat post off of Craigslist 
> last year for a good price, only to find that it did not work for my needs. 
> I sold it to a friend of mine. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 8:51:15 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
>> Well, that’s hopeful!
>>
>> I got mine today, too. I have it installed and I slammed it as far as it 
>> will go and it will just barely work for me. I sized up in my Platypus 
>> frame so I have very little seatpost showing. This seat post cannot be 
>> slammed all the way because it widens at the top. But I think this will 
>> work and be a good thing. I dread moving my saddle around and tipping it 
>> this way or that. But I hope to get it perfect in the next few days and 
>> then I’ll give it a review.
>> L
>>
>> On Jun 2, 2023, at 11:37 PM, st nick  wrote:
>>
>> I heard back from my friend  Jim who received and mounted the revised 
>> IRC seatpost.
>>
>>
>> Here's what he said:
>>
>> Paul in Dallas 
>>
>>
>> "Received it 2 days ago. Long ride yesterday and it is a game changer! No 
>> slippage….my Roadini is now dialed in. Can’t wait to ride it again."
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
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> .
>  March 8, 2023.jpg>
>
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Re: [RBW] Clean AND Buttery Shifting?

[lconley]

I have had multiple sets of Silver1 and Silver2 shifters. There can be a 
lot of difference between "identical" shifters.

You can try swapping shifters between bicycles and see if the feel follows 
the shifter or stays with the bike.

Laing

On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 12:29:55 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:

> Thank you Piaw. This sounds like a fine option for the future when cables 
> need replacing. Right now everything is pretty new and in great shape.
>
> I guess my question in this regard is more about why the shifting would be 
> different given that all the variables appear to be identical. I'd love to 
> replicate the way my Hunq shifts in my Atlantis, and so am curious as to 
> which variables I might be overlooking. 
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 8:16:05 AM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Consider the Shimano OT-SP41 coated shift cables: https://amzn.to/463eUM8
>>
>> I haven't needed them yet, but I did try the brake cable version and it's 
>> very impressive.
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 13, 2023 at 6:28:07 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Eliot. Yes, cable housings are filed and run in very smooth 
>>> curves with no bends. I'll try easing off on the binding. 
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, June 13, 2023 at 5:35:58 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Also, did you file your cut housing ends?

 On Tue, Jun 13, 2023 at 5:34 PM Eliot Balogh  
 wrote:

> Hey John,
>
> It’s a little hard to tell over the internet but based on your 
> description, a few thoughts come to mind. Are your cable runs clean with 
> easy bends ? Is your housing contaminated ? Can you ease off the binding 
> bolt on your shifter ?
>
> I have always avoided lubing my cables out of fear of attracting dirt. 
>
> Eliot 
>
> On Tue, Jun 13, 2023 at 3:15 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>
>> Both my Hunqapillar and Atlantis shift cleanly and, given the state 
>> of the rider on a given day, precisely. The Hunq has buttery shifting 
>> all 
>> across the rear cogs- easy, smooth, and...buttery! The Atlantis, 
>> however, 
>> is smooth but a little more resistant to change, and requires a little 
>> more 
>> force. 
>>
>> Both bikes have the same lengths of cable housing lined with a 
>> silicon spray and the cables are greased with Slick Honey. The Hunq 
>> sports 
>> Silver Shifters 1.0 and the Atlantis, Gran Compe. Both as bar ends.  
>> Aren't 
>> these were basically the same shifters?
>>
>> So, what gives?
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> -- 
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[lconley]

I don't know about the later Clems, but an issue on my OG Clementine is 
that wide tires interfere with the double kickstand. Not likely a problem 
with 650b - 48s but starting at about 55 (2.15") width, the tires touch the 
kickstand - had to oval the mounting hole. 2.4s rubbed the kickstand very 
badly. I like how the Gus has an offset kickstand hole. Do the later Clems 
have the offset kickstand hole also?

Laing

On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 4:09:14 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> All the happiness and all the joy!!! I can run what I want! I was getting 
> ready to pitch the whole project when I thought I might have to build new 
> wheels - quite the investment for something I’m only experimenting with, 
> plus I had dyno in my old wheelset. I’m getting 48s because I absolutely 
> CAN I’ll take it to the shop and report back later on what tires I end 
> up with.
>
> On Jun 11, 2023, at 1:37 PM, Bob Ehrenbeck  wrote:
>
> 
>
> 48s are absolutely fine on Pacenti Brevets.
>
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/gravel-myths-3-wide-tires-need-wide-rims/
>
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/myth-18-wide-tires-need-wide-rims/
>
> Bob E
> Cranford, NJ
> On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 2:59:59 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> The internal width is 19mm. A 48 might benefit from a slightly wider 
>> internal width but it should be just fine with the 19. I am not an expert 
>> in such things though.
>>
>> On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 1:10:03 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Can anyone here confirm that she can run 48s tubed on those Pacenti 
>>> Brevet rims? I checked their site and got nowhere, it shows a graph with 42 
>>> yes, 50 no. What about 48??
>>>
>>> On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 8:57:50 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 OH! I see. I don't know enough about tubeless to understand the fine 
 details of size vs psi, etc. I have those rims on my ProtoGallop with 42's 
 but I have tubes because it suits my brain better.

 On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 8:39:59 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
 wrote:

> They are, and in the myriad responses I’ve gotten (many private and 
> some on Instagram) it has been explained to me that if I want to run 48s 
> I 
> have two options: 1. Run tubeless but never more than 30 psi. Or, use 
> tubes. Or thirdly, but new wheels.
>
> Did I misunderstand? 
> L
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 11, 2023, at 6:22 AM, Johnny Alien  
> wrote:
>
> I was under the understanding that the current Pacenti Brevet rims 
> are tubeless ready.
>
>
>
> https://pacenticycledesign.com/collections/aluminium-rims-gravel-cross/products/brevet-rim-650b-1
>
> On Sunday, June 11, 2023 at 12:38:32 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> What Gil says resonates with me. I love how you love a Clem! All 
>> those attributes truly do make the Clem a gem.  I have favored those 
>> Platys 
>> as of late, but I am going back to Clem-loving again soon. We are 
>> traveling 
>> right now, but when I get back I’m heading to the bike shop to see about 
>> putting 48s on my Clem if the Pacenti Brevet rims will take them. Sounds 
>> like if they aren’t tubeless, it’s ok. We’ll see.
>>
>> On Jun 9, 2023, at 3:15 PM, Gill  wrote:
>>
>> The fact that the OP’s query has already been thoroughly dealt with 
>> won’t dissuade me from chiming in on a subject near and dear (besides, 
>> if 
>> posters were not able to beat dead horses this forum would have 
>> dissolved 
>> years ago). I own a Clem and ride off road, gravel/trail riding is the 
>> fourth most favorite thing I do in life. I highly encourage others to do 
>> it 
>> on a Clem. Opinion, highly subjective, yes, but I do have a kind of data 
>> point. Usually I’m solo but last summer I joined a group ride (my 
>> daughter 
>> said I needed to make new friends). This served as a good barometer of 
>> how 
>> Clem compared with other “gravel” bikes. My inaugural ride was 19 miles 
>> moving at a good clip, mostly off-road at the end of which another rider 
>> smiled and said “You just ride that thing don’t you“. I translated that 
>> to, 
>> “turns out that’s a nice bicycle and my unspoken questioning of its 
>> appropriateness for this ride was unfounded, my apologies“. Worth 
>> noting, 
>> unlike Kai’s tough looking Clem mine is a Riv blue step thru and gets no 
>> respect. The qualities that make the Clem a good gravel bike are those 
>> that 
>> make it a good bike period: bulletproof frame, long wheel base, stable 
>> handling, gearing that gets you over/through anything you have any 
>> business 
>> being on, fits most any tire and uber comfortable. I might add that part 
>> of 
>> that comfort comes from the bosco bars – Clems suspension system –a 
>> swept 

[RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

The reason I suggest the chain hanger is that on one of my 1x bikes, 
recently, the chain suddenly started not wanting to stay on the chainring 
(VO chainring on SunXCD cranks - low miles on both). I got to looking at it 
and the chain appeared to be twisted where it got to the chainring. Further 
inspection revealed that the chain appeared to be twisted everywhere, then 
I looked at the bike from the rear, and the derailleur was obviously 
slanted in relation to the freewheel. I got out the hanger tool and 
straightened out the hanger - problem solved. The bike had apparently 
fallen over and bent the hanger in, the large pulley Altus derailleur was 
fine though. 

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>
> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 8/9spd 
> in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
> . 

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

I will take that as a no, the derailleur hanger was not checked. I would 
make sure that the derailleur hanger was straight.

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:53:07 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both new 
> parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>
> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur were 
> good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built the 
> bike in 2009. 
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>> hanger is straight?
>>
>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
>>> Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>>>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
>>>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>>>
>>>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>>>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/kjalgjoihjga44451>.  
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/665b64a1-dea4-47b8-8417-d2b1ce26392bn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[lconley]

Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur hanger 
is straight?

Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.

Laing

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. Clutch 
> RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>
> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
> wrote:
>
>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>
>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>> .  
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[lconley]

Cassette widths per Sheldon Brown:
Shimano 8 speed - 35.4mm
Shimano 9 speed - 36.5mm
Shimano 10 speed - 37.2 mm
Not the same, but kind of depends on the depth of threads on the locknut 
and how close the outer cog gets to your frame. May work some of the time, 
may not some of the time. The 10 speed outer cog will be 1.8mm closer to 
the frame than the 8 speed - that is a full 7-8-9 speed cog width.
Shimano 7, 8, 9, and 10 speeds all have different cog spacings - 5.0, 4.8, 
4.34, and 3.95 respectively.
Remember that it is easier to put a narrow cassette on a wide free hub than 
the other way around.

On the Shimano 11 speed mountain (11-40, 11-42, 11-46), the outer six cogs 
are on two spiders, 3 per spider. The inner two cogs overhang the spokes. I 
have the 11-46 on a Phil wood 9 speed cassette hub on my Gus. It might not 
work on a freehub with a larger flange.
[image: 11 speed mountain.JPG]

Laing


On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 3:58:48 PM UTC-4 Drew Saunders wrote:

> Yes, this is correct. Road Shimano/SRAM are 8-9-10, and 11 is a newer 
> standard that should ship with a spacer to handle 8-9-10. That's what 
> happened with my Velocity wheel that I just bought. I was on 9 speed, so I 
> kept the spacer and moved my cassette from my (rim failed) older hub. Then, 
> when I went to 11, I removed the spacer and made sure to keep it! I wonder 
> if 8-9-10 cassettes are being sold with spacers yet? That would be nice.
>
> Since I'm using a regular Ultegra 8/9/10 (sold as a 9 speed) long cage RD 
> with my Silver shifter, all I had to do was back out the low set screw a 
> bit and it's working great with the 11 speed cassette.
>
> Anyway, the Uno is designed for clutch RDs that need a *lot* more pull.
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:23:07 AM UTC-7 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>
>> Uhh... I'm pretty certain that 8-9-10 speed Shimano/Sram freehub bodies 
>> are all the same width. It's 7 speed that is narrower. From 8 to 9 cogs and 
>> 9 to 10 they just decreased the spacing between cogs and didn't change the 
>> overall width. 7 to 8 and 10 to 11 is when the width changed. Mountain 11 
>> speed cassettes will fit on an 8 speed freehub because of the dished 
>> largest cog, but not road 11 with a flat large cog.
>>
>> Josiah Anderson 
>> Usually in Missoula, MT 
>>
>> Le mar. 6 juin 2023 à 5:10 AM, lconley  a écrit :
>>
>>> You likely cannot put a road 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette on an 8 speed 
>>> hub (35.4mm), and 9 speed (36.5mm) is pretty iffy also. It is possible that 
>>> the 8 speed cassette is on a wider hub with a spacer, but you need to 
>>> check. Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes fit 9 speed width hubs, so you 
>>> can get at least 10 of the cogs on an 8 speed hub.
>>>
>>> Just as a reference point, I shift an 11 speed Dura Ace cassette with a 
>>> downtube Silver1 shifter with Dura Ace 9 speed derailleur. I kind of prefer 
>>> the long lever movement so that I don't skip any of the closely spaced 
>>> gears. I also prefer the looks of the Silver1 over the Silver2. I keep 
>>> threatening to grind down a Silver2 and put a Rustines Gum Shifter Cover on 
>>> it, for a little less throw without the bulk of the Silver2 shifter.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 7:43:41 PM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more 
>>> gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette 
>>> and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[lconley]

Dia Compe already makes the thumbie and downtube version of the shifter. 
The Uno is just the bar-end version. I tried unsuccessfully to mount the 
downtube version to a bar end pod a while back, but had to grind away too 
much of the pod.

Even if you can change the freehub, you would need to re-dish the wheel. 
Probably cheaper to change the wheel unless you build wheels yourself. Not 
a big deal for me, I change hubs and rims all the time - I build my own 
wheels.

Laing

On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:16:41 AM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:

> @Iconley--I was hoping I could swap the freehub to one that would fit an 
> 11-speed cassette without changing the wheel's hub. I haven't taken it 
> apart yet so I don't know what internals or measurements the current 
> freehub has. I'm hoping it'll end up as less trouble than changing bb, 
> cranks, and adding an fd for now.
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 9:00:06 AM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Luke, I've got a couple for you - questions, that is.
>>
>> Will the Uno lever mount on a Shimano compatable Paul Thumbie ?I'm 
>> thinking of replacing my current 11 speed Microshift. lever which I run 
>> mounted on the Thumbie.  
>>
>> Also, what is the length of the Uno lever measured from say the pivot 
>> point to the tip?
>>
>> I'm very interested in trying the lever, but with its premium price I 
>> hesitate to make the investment without knowing a bit more info than what 
>> the Soma website provides. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 12:20:28 AM UTC-4 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>>> You can use a 11s chain or a 12s chain if you so choose! Also, I work 
>>> there (Merry/Soma) so feel free to hit me with questions. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 4:43:41 PM UTC-7 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>>
 I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more 
 gears and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed 
 cassette 
 and a friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.
 On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 6:12:15 PM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Max,
>
> I saw the video where Russ announced this, and was also curious as 
> I've got an 11sp Cassette in my parts bin with no current home. 
>
> I do think you need an 11sp chain, as the chain width and cassette 
> spacing work most natively together. You may be able to get away with a 
> 10sp chain depending on the company, so if you've got one it could be 
> worth 
> a try. 
>
> Primary difference between the Microshift and the Uno is the ratchet. 
> I've got the microshift 11sp shifter on my gevanalle brifters and it 
> works 
> fine in index but the friction setting is a little frustrating without 
> the 
> ratchet. That paired with the fact that the Uno looks classy makes me 
> feel 
> like you still made the right call... especially for a Riv.
>
> Hope that's helpful!
>
> - Drew
>
> On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 2:51:40 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>
>> Has anyone tried the UNO? 
>>
>> If you don't know what I'm talking about check out this video from 
>> Russ at The Path Less Pedaled. 
>>  The shifter is a 
>> collaboration between Soma, DiaCompe and Russ.  It's a friction shifter 
>> that should take anything you throw at it including 11 or 12 speed, MTB 
>> or 
>> Road drivetrains. 
>>
>> I got to it because I'm considering a 1x set up on one of my bikes 
>> and I want maximum flexibility and compatibility to allow me to use a 
>> clutch and a SRAM RD if I choose to.
>>
>> Also, I've been fighting a CX-70 FD paired with White Industries 2x9 
>> setup on my Hunqapillar. No matter how much I adjust it or how much I 
>> trim, 
>> certain combinations (of the ones I actually use) always have some rub. 
>> I'm 
>> still trying to get my hands on an IRD Sub-C FD which might allow me to 
>> keep the current setup (I love the gearing I have with 42/24 chainrings 
>> and 
>> a 11-40 cassette) but I might want to switch things up.
>>
>> Long story short I bit the bullet and got an UNO. It feels really 
>> solid and the ratchet sounds great. Also take a look, the thing is 
>> massive 
>> compared to a Silver2:
>>
>> [image: IMG_0495.jpeg]
>>
>> For my 1x I'm considering using a Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-40 
>> cassette that I already have in my parts box. And I'll probably pair 
>> that 
>> with a SRAM GX 10-Speed RD.
>>
>> The question for the group is: do I need to use an 11 speed chain 
>> given the 11 speed cassette?
>>
>> Oh, and now I'm wondering, is the UNO just a fancy version of this 
>> Microshift shifter 
>>  
>> which 
>> I hadn't seen but 

[RBW] Re: Shifters - UNO shifter

[lconley]

You likely cannot put a road 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette on an 8 speed hub 
(35.4mm), and 9 speed (36.5mm) is pretty iffy also. It is possible that the 
8 speed cassette is on a wider hub with a spacer, but you need to check. 
Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes fit 9 speed width hubs, so you can get 
at least 10 of the cogs on an 8 speed hub.

Just as a reference point, I shift an 11 speed Dura Ace cassette with a 
downtube Silver1 shifter with Dura Ace 9 speed derailleur. I kind of prefer 
the long lever movement so that I don't skip any of the closely spaced 
gears. I also prefer the looks of the Silver1 over the Silver2. I keep 
threatening to grind down a Silver2 and put a Rustines Gum Shifter Cover on 
it, for a little less throw without the bulk of the Silver2 shifter.

Laing

On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 7:43:41 PM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:

I'm looking forward to reading how you like it. The spouse wants more gears 
and the fastest way to do it is to get him a 10- or 11-speed cassette and a 
friction shifter since his Breezer Downtown EX came as a 1x8.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gearing (was Getting Over My Head)

[lconley]

Larger diameter cogs and chainrings have less friction because the chain 
does not bend/wrap as much. Not sure how the angle between the front and 
rear impacts the overall friction. But lets say you have two single speed 
bikes - one is a 52-26 and the other is a 26-13 - same gear ratio. The 
52-26 has less friction, but the 26-13 is lighter.

Laing

On Wednesday, May 31, 2023 at 1:31:38 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Patrick, Drew and everyone, Eurosport said it was a 44t chainring with a 
> "pie plate" cassette" during the live broadcast, you can see it here : 
> https://www.eurosport.com/cycling/giro-d-italia/2023/primoz-roglic-mechanical-watch-the-moment-giro-ditalia-dreams-crumbled-until-he-stormed-back-to-win_sto9626269/story.shtml
>
> The announcers Rob Hatch and Sean Kelley saying "oh no not again" is in 
> reference to his past history of disastrous things happening to him on in 
> stage races. But he was a champion pro ski jumper before he switched to pro 
> cycling, so no matter what happens it's always "next jump". No time to 
> worry over what was. He's multi Grand Tour winner anyways. That he didn't 
> grow up a bike racer he has no fear of ditching "pro cycling tradition" 
> because it's "next jump", all about  embracing The Present. 
> Sean Kelley saying "we've had the discussion of the one ring, but let's 
> not get into that now" . He was a pro racer in the Lemond days and has a 
> very dry wit about him, he can be very funny ! 
>
>
> So if Drew said SRAM only has the 10-44 then that's what is was. If you 
> ask most racers what their preferred ring is to ride all the time it is 
> inevitably the big ring. A 44t for an uphill TT qualifies as a big(enough) 
> ring. I don't know exactly what it is about riding big rings and big cogs 
> but it just feels more efficient than a small ring. Pros will often ride up 
> mountains in the big ring and largest cog, which can be anywhere from a 
> 53/34 to a 50/28 and the like. I know on my road bike my favorite uphill 
> combo is a 46/28 for as long as I can take it. I have a 32 max but I guess 
> I'm too cautious to ride that ! 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Getting in over my head

[lconley]

Are modern FDs really that bad / hard to adjust? i learned to ride a 2x5 
drivetrain (Schwinn Suburban) in 1969. That bike weighed 38 lbs, but it 
always shifted just fine. I rode 2x and 3x with only Campagnolo Nuovo 
Record FDs from 1972 to 2002, never a problem (maybe a Suntour Cyclone in 
there somewhere for a year or two). In common with the Schwinn FD (Huret?) 
was that they had smooth cages. Still have 3 bikes with Campy NR FDs. i 
think that many modern derailleurs are built to match a certain crank / 
chainring combo, and when asked to do something different, do not work as 
well. I did go with a friction shifted mostly smooth caged Dura-Ace FD-7800 
(2003) on my Custom.

Laing

On Friday, May 19, 2023 at 5:38:19 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I just changed my Clem to 1x and it’s been great. I could never adjust the 
> FD and finally had enough.  
> Doug
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 19, 2023, at 5:31 PM, Leah Peterson  wrote:
>
> 
>
> I’ve got 1x on my other Platypus! It’s really nice to have both types of 
> gearing. I don’t know that I really drop my red bike’s chain but I have 
> done it many times on my Clem. I wish that thing was 1x…
>
> It’s good to hear that people like their 1x - Grant talked about it in his 
> blog and he didn’t have the praise for it I was expecting.
>
>
> On May 19, 2023, at 5:23 PM, Piaw Na  wrote:
>
> 
>
>>
>> Actually, it took me a full year to get the front derailer on one of my 
>> bikes to shift without drama, and I've been wrenching personally and 
>> professionally for 50 years. On a lovely gravel road in Maine, I had just 
>> just passed a couple of young women on horses and started up a hill. 
>> Flipped the lever and dropped the chain into the chainstay. So much for 
>> that new paint, and so much for looking like the cool guy who had 
>> thoughtfully announced his presence and rolled quietly and slowly by them. 
>> You realize why 1x drivetrains are so popular when that happens. If you're 
>> not 100% confident that when you move the lever nothing bad is going to 
>> happen, you just don't move the lever. And you miss out on all those 
>> wonderful spinny gears. (Turns out I just needed to rotate the inner 
>> chainring 1/5 of a circle, shifts immediately and confidently, now.)
>>
>
> I'm not a professional mechanic, and I ran 3x drivetrains for many years, 
> frequently running them out of spec (24t small chainring, 39 tooth middle 
> ring) The number of times I've dropped the chain has been innumerable. Last 
> year I flipped everything to a 1x drivetrain, and now I don't know why I 
> didn't do so earlier. I don't race, and around here when the terrain 
> changes you don't  need a 1t adjustment, you need at least 2-3 teeth so the 
> bigger jumps don't bother me at all.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Ride in Asheville NC?

[lconley]

UTC-4 
>>>>>>>> frank.b...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi all - I have been quietly tracking this conversation and am 
>>>>>>>>> looking at my work & life calendars to see if it is a feasible trip 
>>>>>>>>> for me. 
>>>>>>>>> I will be traveling from Richmond, VA and appreciate all the thinking 
>>>>>>>>> and 
>>>>>>>>> effort to get this going!
>>>>>>>>> -Frank 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 9:48:02 AM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Hi Pam! So glad you’re interested and hope you can make it. We 
>>>>>>>>>> will certainly have lots of options ride-wise but haven’t nailed 
>>>>>>>>>> anything 
>>>>>>>>>> down yet. Certainly lots of road and greenway options. Some of the 
>>>>>>>>>> gravel 
>>>>>>>>>> fire roads are pretty mellow too. And we’ll definitely have time 
>>>>>>>>>> built in 
>>>>>>>>>> pre and post ride for socializing, and I love your idea of a 
>>>>>>>>>> swap/sale/trade opportunity. Maybe we could even let folks post what 
>>>>>>>>>> they 
>>>>>>>>>> are thinking about bringing to make it more interesting.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 12:03:21 AM UTC-4 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I'm going to try to come.  I'd like roads.  What mileage options 
>>>>>>>>>>> are we thinking about?  Obviously I would like plenty of time to 
>>>>>>>>>>> see all 
>>>>>>>>>>> the bikes and meet all the owners so plenty of stops along the way 
>>>>>>>>>>> and some 
>>>>>>>>>>> time at the beginning and end of the rides would be great.  Want to 
>>>>>>>>>>> bring 
>>>>>>>>>>> stuff to swap/sell/trade?  Want to have anything else like seeing 
>>>>>>>>>>> gear such 
>>>>>>>>>>> as favorite bags, tents, accoutrements?  Let me know how I can 
>>>>>>>>>>> help.  
>>>>>>>>>>> Let me know if anyone wants to carpool from Charlotte or stop 
>>>>>>>>>>> through on 
>>>>>>>>>>> the way there or back.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4 
>>>>>>>>>>> brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Gary! I’m definitely free then. I’ll see if I can round 
>>>>>>>>>>>> up a few other Riv riders here in Kentucky!
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> - Brian
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Apr 12, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Jason D  
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thank you Gary! This sounds like an awesome time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 12:23:31 PM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi from Asheville,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Wanted to let folks know that we've currently got 5-8 local 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Riv riders and 3+ (thanks Laing, Brian, Jason, and maybe George 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> for letting 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> me know) that have said they'd be able to make the weekend of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> July 7-9 work 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> for them, so let's make that the official date for our Ashe

[RBW] Re: Phil Rivy hub axle OLD 130->126->120 respacing

[lconley]

This was three months ago.

Laing

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 1:44:02 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Call them up or email them. They had the parts to turn the the ancient 48H 
> 107 OLD(?) SF hub in the picture into a 135 OLD and new bearings for it, 
> but I had to send it in. I did the 130 to 135 OLD Touring hub myself.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 1:07:25 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> Seeing that the Rivvy hub was of the last iteration of their freewheel 
>> hubs you ought to be able to do it yourself. Both of my touring rear hubs, 
>> from '99 and 2011 have the field serviceable axle(FSA), that's easy to 
>> dismantle. 
>>
>> Whether or not they have the parts, that's another story. They ought to, 
>> or be able to make them, they're a machine shop, right ? Or so I thought. 
>> When PW ditched the FW hubs they also deleted all the service information 
>> about them from their website, not very nice.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Phil Rivy hub axle OLD 130->126->120 respacing

[lconley]

Call them up or email them. They had the parts to turn the the ancient 48H 
107 OLD(?) SF hub in the picture into a 135 OLD and new bearings for it, 
but I had to send it in. I did the 130 to 135 OLD Touring hub myself.

Laing

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 1:07:25 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Seeing that the Rivvy hub was of the last iteration of their freewheel 
> hubs you ought to be able to do it yourself. Both of my touring rear hubs, 
> from '99 and 2011 have the field serviceable axle(FSA), that's easy to 
> dismantle. 
>
> Whether or not they have the parts, that's another story. They ought to, 
> or be able to make them, they're a machine shop, right ? Or so I thought. 
> When PW ditched the FW hubs they also deleted all the service information 
> about them from their website, not very nice.
>

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[RBW] Re: Phil Rivy hub axle OLD 130->126->120 respacing

[lconley]

Note also that you can change the freewheel side as well. Both of the hubs 
in the picture are 7 speed. You can get 5 thru 8 as I recall. I think 5 
speed is what you use for a single speed setup.

Laing

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 11:45:01 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> The touring hubs used all the same spoke lengths - on the rear hub, the 
> freewheel side had a smaller flange than the non freewheel side to 
> accomplish this. Not all Phil Wood freewheel hubs are touring hubs.,
> Yes, you can get the spacers for whatever hub width that you want, BUT you 
> may have to send the hub to Phil Wood to accomplish it. Some are user 
> serviceable and some are not. I have done it both ways depending on the 
> model of hub.  
> Small flange 48H on the left - used different spoke lengths. Touring 36H 
> on the right - uses the same spoke lengths - note the larger flange on the 
> non freewheel side..
>
> [image: Phil Wood rear s.png]
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 11:28:12 AM UTC-4 Max S wrote:
>
>> Question for those who might know... 
>> I've got a Phil hubbed wheelset, the rear uses what I believe is a Rivy 
>> hub, freewheel version. I could be mis-remembering, but I believe the idea 
>> was to use flanges and spacing that basically make front and rear use the 
>> same length spokes. At any rate, the rear hub is spaced for 130 mm 
>> over-locknut dimension. I'm shoving it into a frame that uses a narrower 
>> spacing, say 126 (although 120 may be it). 
>> Can I get a different axle or axle end caps to accomplish this? 
>> TIA, 
>>
>> - Max "obsolete by the time I get out of bed" in A2
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Getting in over my head

[lconley]

The answer is yes, but not recently. The upcoming North Carolina Riv Ride 
will be a challenge - no hills to practice on in south Florida.

Note that you can still do an aero tuck even on a flat bar Platypus - its 
is kind of awkward, your hands are sort of beside your shoulders, or you 
can put your hands near the stem under your chest, but it beats pedaling 
downhill. You might have to put your water bottle in a frame mounted cage 
though.

You don't need a Roadini - a naked drop bar platypus would work just fine. 
Although a sparkly raspberry Rodeo...

You can never have too many Rivendells.

Laing

On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 9:13:53 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> I just want to talk bikes. I don’t have anything to post FS or WTB…I just 
> want to tell Riv people this dumb story that happened this morning. You can 
> laugh or you can roll your eyes, or you can chime in with your own dumb 
> story of getting in over your own dumb heads.
>
> This is my second season of club riding. I was new to it last year, and 
> now that our weather is finally cooperating, I’m back.
>
> Last week, our bike club started a new ride. It would be on Monday 
> mornings and only 5 miles from my house. The pace was to be 
> “conversational” which I took to mean ‘riding at a pace you can still have 
> a conversation at.’ (I now know that could not be what it meant.) The route 
> would be new. The details were fuzzy - word was, the ride leader would make 
> decisions about pace and miles once people arrived. Now, I know Platypuses 
> are not going to fare well in the 18-21 mph crowd, but I knew that two 
> women upwards of 70 did this ride last week. I figured I’d be fine.
>
> I was the second to arrive; the first being the president of our bike 
> club. He was pulling his gravel bike out of his truck. He’s a roadie and he 
> leads the 17-18 mph groups. Hmmm.  We’re friendly; I’m glad to know one 
> person on the ride, but if he is here, how fast are we going? Two more 
> people arrive; both men, roadies, and they pull jet-black, lethal-looking, 
> feather-light carbon bikes from their vehicles. They are strangers to me.
>
> Ok, well, it’s going to be fine. Who cares if you’re the only woman. So 
> what if you’re wearing your pink pants. Clutching the wide, sweepy bars of 
> your sparkly pink Platypus. Their eyes are hidden behind their Oakleys, and 
> I imagine what they are thinking - “She cannot be serious.” 
>
> Behind my Oakleys, I am thinking, “I cannot be serious.” 
>
> The three of them begin to discuss the route and the pace. The ride leader 
> says, “The route is hilly. Let’s keep a 17 mph pace in the flats.” As soon 
> as I hear that the route is hilly, I want OUT. I have always kept up in my 
> club rides, but hills are the one thing that the Platypus does not do well. 
> Oh, a Platypus can climb, but don’t ask it to do it at high speeds. I use 
> momentum to get me uphill. To compensate, I always shoot ahead of the 
> group, but I slow on the incline and those carbon bikes are gaining on me 
> near the top. About the time they catch me, I’m back up to speed and am 
> innocent of causing anyone to slow down, but that extra effort is the price 
> I pay. The game is: Never Make Them Slow Down For You Even If You Have A 
> Heart Attack. 
>
> My mind is searching for a way out. I don’t have a good feeling about 
> this. It’s early in the season. Maybe if I was in tip top, but today? But 
> then came introductions. J, the president says, “This is Leah. She’s fine. 
> She can keep up with us.” Liar, I think.
>
> And with that, we are off.
>
> We hit a hill right out the gate. I’m toward the back because I don’t know 
> the route. They are calmly approaching that hill, not changing speed. I’m 
> confused. They’re slowing me up; it’s too late for me to get around them. I 
> will not have the burst of speed I need to start that hill. And worse, I’m 
> in too high of a gear. I have friction shifting - and now I’m committed. I 
> am desperate not to look like a fool. I am standing on my pedals, wishing 
> for the first time in my life that I am 10 pounds heavier. All my weight on 
> the left pedal. All my weight on the right pedal. Tossing the bike side to 
> side. Panting. Heart wildly beating. Wishing I was somewhere else. I don’t 
> know if I can do this, and we have just begun. And the two guys in front 
> are now sailing uphill and creating a wide chasm between us. This is the 
> worst first impression. But looking behind me, one of them is having a 
> harder time with that hill than me. So, at least I’m not LAST. 
>
> The leaders soft pedal and we regroup. New strategy. Way lower gears on 
> the uphill. Pedal like a rabid animal on the downhill. Announce I’m going 
> around them to get enough speed/momentum.
>
> This works better. “Hey, Leah’s getting a better workout than us!” they 
> joke. “She’s pedaling downhill AND uphill!” Yes, she is, and she’s 
> exhausted. I push something on my Apple Watch and 

Re: [RBW] forthcoming Hillibike "combo" predictions?

[lconley]

So "Susie Lugged" in June" has become "Susie/Wolbis/Gus combo Hillibike. 
Lugged." in October. OK, not likely to impact me, I have my Gus. But I do 
love lugged frames.

As far as the Appaloosa vs. Hunqapillar comparison - the Hunqapillar has 
the best head badge by far - love those Trilobites, kinda wish my Bombadil 
had a Hunqapillar head badge.

Laing

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 7:14:06 AM UTC-4 Bones wrote:

> I am curious. It was mentioned in an email back in January, right before 
> the last Susie/Gus shipment:
>
> Tomorrow is the last chance to get a fillet brazed Gus or Susie. They're 
> discontinued, not because we don't love 'em but because the fillet brazing 
> is super time consuming for our frame manufacturer and because a lot of 
> people find the two iterations of what's almost the same bike confusing. 
> Hillibikes will return, but not in these forms.
>
> I also took this screenshot around the same time. Maybe they were just 
> using the name Susie as a placeholder. Maybe not. Of course someone could 
> just give our friends a call to find out...
>
> [image: IMG_0020.PNG]
> Bones
>
> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 9:03:24 PM UTC-4 Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>
>> *If they didn't make major changes to the Hunqapillar, a newer version 
>> would just be an Appaloosa.*
>>
>> this is what i tell myself all the time. always wanted a hunq, but ended 
>> up with an appa. i used to hate the long chain stays and i still *prefer 
>> *the hunq, but I i really like my appaloosa.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 8:39:49 PM UTC-4 Chris L wrote:
>>
>>> RBW have stated at least once that the Hunqapillar will come back, but 
>>> in a different form.  I hope that's what is coming in October.  
>>>
>>> If they didn't make major changes to the Hunqapillar, a newer version 
>>> would just be an Appaloosa.  Other than longer chainstays and probably 
>>> heavier tubes, the Appaloosa is very, very similar to the old Hunqapillar, 
>>> at least in the mid-sizes (ie, 54 Hunq, 55 Appaloosa).   I would love to 
>>> ride my 54 Hunqapillar and the closest to the same size Appaloosa, back to 
>>> back, to see how much difference the longer chainstays make.  
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 7:27:36 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Two biggest differences (in my opinion) between a Clem L and either a 
 Gus or Susie; the latter are not step through frames & they both have a 
 significantly higher bottom bracket than the Clem. I think the Clem is 
 accurately described as a “Hillibike”. Gus & Susie are legit mountain 
 bikes. Love them both!

 Sent from my iPhone

 On May 15, 2023, at 8:10 PM, ssimarsawhney  
 wrote:

 My guess would have been 1in threaded with thicker tubing, which feels 
 like a clem. 


 Can someone speak a bit more about the differences between the two? 

 On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 4:44:08 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I don't think anyone said Susie and Clem are alike, we said Clem L 
> covers the same territory. Gus is more specifically its own thing, 
> there's 
> no other Riv in the category. 
>
> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 3:59:28 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> Owning both a Susie and a Clem, I do agree with Garth that they are 
>> almost nothing alike.  On the other hand, I guess I don't see as much 
>> distinction between the Susie and the Gus as some do, and think of them 
>> as 
>> interchangeable.  Just slightly clunkier and stiffer tubing on one.  
>> Assuming it will still have the not-quite-step-through swoopy top tube 
>> and 
>> that lugs could be shared with Charlie, it would be hard  to Imagine 
>> Rivendell having a new set made for 1 1/8" threadless headtubes and 
>> larger 
>> diameter downtubes, but who knows.  It sounds like the scare of losing a 
>> lug supplier has receded for now, too.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 4:24:58 PM UTC-6 Andrew Letton wrote:
>>
>>> The one feature that I see the Gus/Susie just begging for is a set 
>>> of triple bottle bosses on the *rear* side of the seat tube. With 
>>> those long chainstays, it seems the perfect place for another big (1 - 
>>> 2 
>>> liter) waterbottle for those of us in hot, dry locations.
>>> cheers,
>>> Andrew in Sydney
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 02:35:56 AM GMT+10, Brian Turner <
>>> brok...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>>>
>>>
>>> Does anyone know anything specific about this new Hillibike 
>>> iteration scheduled for October? Care to make any speculations or 
>>> predictions? According to the latest Riv IG post, it only says "lugged, 
>>> green and dark gold".
>>>
>>> My main questions are:
>>> Will it have a straight top tube like the Platy / Roscoe Bubbe, or 
>>> the nice graceful swoopy one like Gus / Susie / Charlie?
>>>
>>> 1" threaded or 

Re: [RBW] forthcoming Hillibike "combo" predictions?

[lconley]

"Lugged" in my mind points to the Susie end of the Gus/Susie spectrum - no 
1-1/8" Rivendell headtube lugs nor fork crowns that I have ever seen, just 
"napkin rings" for the headtube. The 1-1/8" Gus and the Hubbuhubbuh did not 
have lugged headtubes nor lugged forks. Lugs are prettier than TIG.

Laing

On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 4:05:14 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> My guess - and it’s only a guess. Same geo as the “older” bikes. Tubing 
> that splits the difference between the Gus/Susie. Since they are only 
> making one model my money would be on a threaded steer tube - just seems 
> more “Riv”, though I like my threadless bike.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 15, 2023, at 12:35 PM, Brian Turner  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Does anyone know anything specific about this new Hillibike iteration 
> scheduled for October? Care to make any speculations or predictions? 
> According to the latest Riv IG post, it only says "lugged, green and dark 
> gold".
>
> My main questions are:
> Will it have a straight top tube like the Platy / Roscoe Bubbe, or the 
> nice graceful swoopy one like Gus / Susie / Charlie?
>
> 1" threaded or 1-1/8" threadless (like Gus)?
>
> Heavier tubing (like Gus), or lighter duty (like Susie)?
>
> -- 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/98827d3d-de52-4822-8c00-5f685436c7f5n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendells of Nutmeg

[lconley]

Which is why I do not have a kickstand plate on my Rivendell Custom. 
Kickstands work great indoors and where there is no slope or wind to knock 
the bike over or soft sand. Note that I do have kickstands on almost all of 
my bikes, but I don't always use them outdoors.

Laing

On Sunday, May 7, 2023 at 11:37:24 PM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:

> All those kickstand plates, and hardly a single kickstand in use!
>
> Collin, in Standramento
>

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Re: [RBW] Double 1x

[lconley]

That was what came on the Rivendell Mystery Bikes, double crank on the 
front, 9 speed cassette on the rear, but only a rear derailleur and 
shifter. No shifter boss or cable stop for a front derailleur. I think it 
was referred to as a stick shift - you shifted the front by pushing the 
chain with a stick.

Laing

On Tuesday, May 2, 2023 at 10:44:44 AM UTC-4 fiddl...@gmail.com wrote:

> +1 on the double 1x w/ no front shifter approach - I call it my 'manual 
> granny.' I'm not good enough to shift it on the fly (at least not in 
> moments when I urgently need that low of a gear...)
>
> *SunRace RDM900 derailer (1.7 pull ratio AND a clutch!)*
> *Jim 13-42t cassette*
> *36-24 crank*
> *Silver thumbie*
> *8 speed chain(s)*
>
> Pretty solid hillibike setup for not a lot of $. I am considering moving 
> to an 8s 11-42 because I do sometimes wish I had one slightly faster gear 
> on the road.
>
> [image: ClemDrive.jpg]
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:11:42 AM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
>
>> You can also do double 1x with two chainrings and skip the front 
>> derailleur and shifter - manually shift the front when desired (usually 
>> while stopped but down shifts can be done while riding easily enough using 
>> your foot to nudge the chain).
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:46:46 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I was just writing elsewhere that (so far) my 2 x 7 drivetrain I 
>>> installed on my Gus is like having two 1x7 drivetrain’s. That’s the magic 
>>> of the Silver wide/low crank with 38/24 rings. On road/gravel rides I’ve 
>>> yet to use the 24 & I’ve not spun out in the top end. On local quite hilly 
>>> singletrack I just put it on the 24 & leave it there.:)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Apr 30, 2023, at 1:04 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>>
>>> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
>>> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
>>> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
>>> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
>>> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
>>> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>>>
>>> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
>>> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
>>> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
>>> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
>>> works! 
>>>
>>> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
>>> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
>>> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
>>> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
>>> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
>>> as an expanded 1x. 
>>>
>>> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
>>> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
>>> this! 
>>>
>>> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer 
>>> again" Bernard
>>>
>>> 
>>> 
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>> 
>>> 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Heck, even my Monocog is lighter than your Platypus. [Monocog with Specialized Hover bar]

[lconley]

52 tooth granny cog on the freewheel, I assume.
I use the term granny for the small chainwheel on the crank, but others may 
not.

Laing

On Friday, April 28, 2023 at 12:32:01 AM UTC-4 Philip Williamson wrote:

> 52 tooth granny cog? 
>
> Philip 
> SR, CA
>
> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 6:08:22 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> OTOH: this is puzzling: I see so many Rivendells on this list with very, 
>> very high bars, but with 52 tooth granny cogs; IOW gearing designed for 
>> low-torque fast-cadence twiddling. I don't get it. When I spin I move 
>> forward and down; when I torque I shove back and sit up. What gives? 
>> Someone explain.
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 6:18 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> ... And one more interesting thing: A more forward and lower position 
>>> makes you re-think your saddle position. With the M/A I had the saddle -- 
>>> first edition Flite -- slammed all the way back on the rails and seapost 
>>> raised for full leg extension; I wanted to sit back and push forward. 
>>> Leaning and reaching more forward, I wanted to move the saddle forward and 
>>> down; which I did, ~7 mm forward and ~10 mm down. This felt better 
>>> particularly in the hooks, which with the slightly lower and closer saddle 
>>> are now much more comfortable. But the further-forward hoods position also 
>>> make standing and grunting, as through sand, feel more natural compared to 
>>> the closer and higher M/A. So perhaps I don't need a shorter or a higher 
>>> stem after all.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks B17 repair

[lconley]

+1 for Simon Firth. I had him build my Brooks B678 (chromed B68 frame that 
I supplied, honey B67 leather, large copper rivets). For a common saddle 
like a B17, It may be a wash as far as cost goes. But if you want to 
customize it (like large copper rivets), this is the only way to go. I 
probably have $300+ in mine, but I bought all of the parts separately, and 
triple chrome plating isn't cheap. I can also understand wanting to keep as 
much of the original saddle as possible. I still have the original 1973 
Brooks Professional (small copper rivets, chrome frame) that came on my 
Paramount. Someday it will be sent to Simon.

Laing

On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 9:44:41 PM UTC-4 richdpow...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> Simon Firth is a super nice guy with a lot of brooks and frame building 
> experience. That is where I’d send it. He was a Bilenky builder for a 
> number of years. I believe he is also from London, so you know, he has that 
> in his corner! 
>
> https://www.transportcycle.com/articles/brooks-saddle-repair-pg206.htm
>
> If anyone on the list visits Philly stop by his shop. There are also a lot 
> of great coffee and food options. Have a Cheesesteak or a hoagie. Swing by 
> the La Colombe mother ship where it all started. 
>
> Apparently, I have long-term saddle commitment issues. I’ve never worn a 
> Brooks out. :-)
>
> -Rich
> DSM
>
>
>
> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 7:20:48 PM UTC-5 dougP wrote:
>
>> After years of good service, my Brooks B17 blew out the leather at the 
>> nose. Is there a North American source for repair? Any idea what this costs?
>>
>> Doug Peterson
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[lconley]

I remember back in the days before V-brakes and disc brakes when numerous 
cyclo-tourists and Tour de France racers were going over cliffs on mountain 
descents because sidepulls and centerpulls don't work - *N**OT.*  
But I do remember when you adjusted the toe-in of your brake pad by 
twisting the caliper arms with a big crescent wrench in order to eliminate 
squeal.

Laing
On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 11:02:03 AM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm one of the few people who prefer sidepulls over cantis or v-brakes. I 
> bought one of the last Cheviots, which had sidepull caliper brakes for my 
> wife. I wouldn't have bought it if it had required V-brakes or Cantis as I 
> have never been able to even replace brake pads on those without causing 
> squeal. I actually think that Disc brakes are better than either of those 
> for my riding style, though not as good as sidepulls. In any case, as Joe 
> pointed out --- there are plenty of canti or v-brake bikes in the Rivendell 
> lineup. No need to begrudge us sidepull fans 3 models.
>
> On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 6:13:39 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I would have to agree with that thinking, the number of "use v-brakes and 
>> sweptback bars" frames in the lineup is already extensive. I don't think 
>> the Gallop benefits (from a marketing perspective) from moving closer to 
>> the Hillborne's mission. 
>>
>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 6:35:05 PM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah I think it had to do with the brake pull situation. Most road 
>>> brakes won't match with v brakes which means if you have a road setup vs a 
>>> mountain setup you would need cantis or mini-v's. Since there are 
>>> decreasing options for cantis they were leaning on mini-v's but I guess 
>>> they didn't care for the options there. So they went back on the "designed 
>>> for sweptbacks" and decided to push the albastache bars and road brakes. 
>>> This is all a theory based on some of the stuff I remember reading from 
>>> them.
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 9:07:55 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 Correct; last word is that production will use long reach sidepulls. 
 Rarely has this entire group been so unanimously in opposition of a design 
 decision from Riv as their choosing to do so. I am very curious why they 
 went with this decision - the argument that it's a road-ish bike and 
 therefore caliper brakes make sense is a flimsy one.  

 Especially considering how much tire the proto's fit!  For fun, I tried 
 650x55 (note: frame is 700c) and there was actually loads of clearance on 
 the frame - at least 8mm everywhere. Fork was tighter but still about 4mm 
 clearance. Not much reason to do this vs. a Susie but it was a fun 
 experiment. 

 On Mon, Apr 24, 2023 at 5:43 PM Ryan Frahm  wrote:

> Are there not going to be canti mounts on the production? That’s a 
> huge mistake (deal breaker) in my opinion. These look like such a nice 
> and 
> fun bikes!
>
> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 11:55:49 AM UTC-7 Stephen wrote:
>
>> Jason, it looks like such a solid and perfect commuter, I was 
>> surprised when you let it go. Makes me want one, if only production 
>> models 
>> had canti posts... Its nice having a dedicated fendered and racked bike. 
>> I 
>> recently took off the front basket rack from my Joe to take it on some 
>> single track adventures. It was meant to be temporary but the lightened 
>> front end feels so good.. makes me want to have a different dedicated 
>> basket rack/fender city bike. Bikesnob had some similar musings about 
>> his 
>> rock combo and homer recently.
>>
>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 12:34:08 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Dustin, Eric - indeed it's an Abus Bordo lock.  A little 
>>> heavier than a similar strength U-lock but it's handy having it on the 
>>> frame where I can't forget it.  I'm glad to hear the production run is 
>>> secured it sounds like, I suppose the quietness is just because they're 
>>> in 
>>> the waiting phase now. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, 24 April 2023 at 08:28:07 UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Looks great, Jason, and sounds like a good compliment to your other 
 bikes. It's cool to have your rigs squared and sorted for particular 
 purposes. 

 Dustin — I'm not 100% but I think that might be a seat-tube mounted 
 folding lock that has a cage that mounts to the bottle bosses. 

 On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 11:13:33 AM UTC-4 DJC wrote:

> I spoke with Vince three or four months ago about the Charlie 
> project and he said they have it slotted for a 2024 production run. 
> Hopefully this will happen, as I'm definitely interested in one as a 
> daily 
> commuter to complement my Clem H. The Clem is my 

[RBW] Re: Bilenkey Touring Tandem 4 Sale

[lconley]

Assuming that you mean *brazed* steel frame. 

Laing

On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 2:20:30 PM UTC-4 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:

> *The Basics:*
>
>- Custom, Large, Coupled, Touring Tandem 
>- Braised Steel, Powder Coated English Racing Green 
>- Dimensions:
>   - Head Tube - 10.5” / 26.5 C 
>   - Top Tubes - 22.5/57 & 30.5/77.5 
>   - Seat Tubes - 22.75 / 58  & 17.75/45.5 
>- Wheels - White Ind. Hubs & DaVinci V22 Rims  26” with 36 spokes 
>- Crank - DaVinci with TA Zypher rings; 48/38/26 
>- Casette 9 speed - Shimano Ultegra 12 -32 
>- Deraillers - IRD Alpina & Shimano Ultegra 
>- Shifters - Shimano Bar End Indexed/Friction 
>- Brakes - Paul’s Neo-Retro with Tectro Levers, braise-ons for drum 
>brake 
>- Head Set - Chris King, Stem - Nitto 
>- Bars - Nitto Noodle & Nitto Albatross 
>- Seat Posts Nitto & Cane Creek Thudbuster 
>- Tires Panaracer 
>- Chains - Connex 
>- Kick Stand - Two legs 
>- Front & Rear Touring Racks - Nitto, powder coated to match the frame. 
>- Fenders - Velo Orange  
>
>
> *The Extras:*
>
>- Two Hard Shell Suitcases 
>- Yakima Sidewinder car top carrier 
>
>
> *The Pictures*
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0oGq6kMgGrhqOe
>
>
> *The Performance:*
>
> This is a large touring tandem built for strength and stability under 
> weight.  It rides beautifully with or without load and is comfortable on 
> both dirt and paved surfaces  It is outfitted with top flight equipment 
> that will not fail you.  The rear top tube is quite long which affords the 
> stoker a more spacious cockpit.  The stays are long enough to accomodate 
> large paniers without interfering with the stoker’s heels.  The design 
> point was for 2”tires with fenders but currently fitted with 1.75 (1.5 
> actual) tires, which is all we could get the last time we replaced them.  
> The cranks have three pedal drillings to accomodate a range of leg lengths.
>
>
> *The Deal:*
>
> $4500 picked up at our home in Westford, VT.  $5000 shipped to continental 
> USA.  Deliverery, negotiable
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell paint color repetition: Your thoughts

[lconley]

I have 11 Rivendells. 7 of them are some shade of blue (5 are similar 
metallic blues, but the Betty Foy and Mystery Bike are very different 
non-metallic blues), two are non-metallic greens (Bombadil is Hunqapillar 
green, Rosco Bubbe is matte flanker green), a black Clementine and the 
orange metallic Custom.
I like the golds. Don't like the silvers. Not a fan of mustard.
I love the grey & kidney bean, cream pin striped combination.
Orange is always a good choice.
I would like to see more reds and purples and I would love a yellow - my 
fifty year old Paramount came in Kool Lemon, but Grant discouraged yellow 
on my custom due to it being hard to get a yellow that would go with the 
cream headtube.
Not too wild about the Hunqapillar green, but I kind of like the matte 
flanker green.
I would like to see a metallic root beer or a metallic copper.

Laing

On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 4:39:48 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello friends — I've noticed that over the past few years Rivendell have 
> been using some of the same paint colors on many frames through several 
> production runs. If there's been a discussion of this practice, I've missed 
> it. 
>
> I can't quite put my finger on it but something about the same paint 
> appearing on frames over and over leaves me scratching my head. Perhaps 
> there's a missed opportunity to pin a color to a model or to cycle in new 
> colors with new batches of frames? 
>
> What do other members think? Do you appreciate the same colors appearing 
> on different frames? Do you wish there was a wider variety of colors? Does 
> it matter at all? 
>
> Some of these colors I like quite a lot, others I appreciate. There isn't 
> one that I dislike. The Lime Olive is always striking when it appears on a 
> new frame, love it on the Hillbornes and Clems. 
>
> The harvest gold, wow, looks killer on those Susies. Blew my mind on the 
> Homers because they've always been a blue bike. 
>
> I do miss the mustard from the older Appaloosas and the dark bronze that 
> appeared on some Clems. These two colors paired with some of the newer 
> colors currently in use demonstrate, I think, that Riv has some of the best 
> paint colors in the biz. Really lovely stuff. 
>
> Here's a far-from-complete list more or less off the top of my head of 
> where current production colors have appeared:
>
> *Lime-olive*
> Platypus
> Susie
> Hillborne
> Clem
>
> *Mermaid*
> Appaloosa 
> Platypus
> Roadini
> Gus
>
> *Harvest/Dark Gold*
> Hillborne
> Homer
> Susie 
>
> *Ana Purple*
> Rosco Plat
> Appaloosa (next batch in 2023?)
> Road Uno or Gallop? (I can't remember but thought the purple was slated 
> for one of these frames) 
>
> *RBW Orange*
> Appaloosa
> Roadini
> Gus
>
> *RBW Blue*
> Too many to list?
> Appaloosa
> Clem
> Hillborne
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What do I replace coroplast with in Sackville

[lconley]

You could try gluing two pieces of chloroplast together with the "grain" of 
the two pieces running at right angles, or three pieces at 60 deg - 
"plyplast"? 
This assumes that you are using free recycled signs.

Laing

On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 4:14:27 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

> I don't want to hi-jack this thread, but having been inspired by the "lots 
> of stuff" comment I decided to empty my saddle bag of its contents and 
> weigh it.  2.55 lbs.  So I emptied it and went for an 8 mile round trip 
> ride on the Ram to get some merchandize. The bike handled much better - 
> more lively and a bit easer steering response.  Then I loaded it back up 
> and weighed the merchandize when I got back home. 3.64 lbs.  On the return 
> trip loaded up a noticed the difference right away.  I figure the extra 
> ~lb. or so would be about what the bag contents weighs when I go for an 
> extended ride with a cell phone, key ring, ID+some cash in a thin taxi 
> wallet, and maybe a Clif Bar... so roughly the same weight.  Just sayin'.
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:23:41 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Well I don't START with lots of stuff but I endeavor to be like Pam 
>> (Likes To Bike) and Leah (Bicycle Belle Ding Ding) who do everything on 
>> their bikes, so I go shopping and load it up! It sits on a Nitto rack and 
>> the stuff on the sides of the bag bend the coroplast down, maybe I should 
>> just pull the stiffener and let the rack do the work. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 9:54:29 AM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> JB sez "... I carry a lot of stuff!.."  So do I and I'm beginning to 
>>> wonder why.  I carry 3-4 different sizes of tubes in case I run into 
>>> someone who flats without a spare along with an entire collection of small 
>>> tubes, patches, etc.  Every time I lift it down from the ceiling hooks I 
>>> consider ditching most of it.  I think I will...
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 10:12:56 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 Oh I didn't bend it, it just collapsed under the weight of stuff in 
 there. I carry a lot of stuff! 

 On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 7:49:57 AM UTC-7 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
 wrote:

> As folks have said, more free coroplast will be the ideal solution. 
> However, if you want to make your coroplast last forever, never to go 
> “all 
> bendy and collapsey”, send it around the front and back (or side to side) 
> corners, bending it the hard way. To bend “the hard way”, you’ll want to 
> score the coroplast before bending it. Use a straightedge and something 
> dull to scribe your bend line perpendicular to the corrugations. You 
> don’t 
> want to cut the bends, just dent them enough to follow the lines you 
> want. 
> If you plan it well, you’ll be able to unfold your new insert inside the 
> bag and it’ll lock into the interior dimensions, giving your bag 
> structure 
> forever and ever…
> Happy bagging!
> -Kai
> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:06:34 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Mine is all bendy and collapsey in my medium SaddleSack. What are you 
>> folks putting in there to replace it? 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

What he said. The Jaguar is actually SHORTER than the S83 by 1mm according 
to the Nitto information.

Laing

On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 3:53:34 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> Leah, from reading through this whole discussion, I think maybe the Crust 
> specs are incorrect on the Jaguar (aka SP72). I would trust the Nitto 
> specs, which actually show only a 1mm difference between the S83 and the 
> Jaguar.
>
> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 3:42:00 PM UTC-4 Brian Turner wrote:
>
>> Johnny - that's funny because for the longest time, every time I would 
>> see a Rivendell bike, it looked to me like the frames were all way too 
>> small for the riders, because the stems and seatposts often looked like 
>> they were jacked up so high. Now, it seems to be the opposite, and a lot of 
>> Riv riders look like they're riding frames that are a couple sizes too big! 
>> I guess that all speaks to how the geometry of Rivendell models has evolved 
>> over time to arrive at the current philosophy.
>>
>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 3:36:50 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry, the Jaguar. It looks like the website says so???
>>>
>>> On Apr 17, 2023, at 3:33 PM, lconley  wrote:
>>>
>>> The S84 is 27.2 ONLY. The S84 (I own 3) is why I bought my reaming tool.
>>>
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 3:29:43 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Johnny - I know! Maybe it’s the swept-back bars? 
>>>>
>>>> Garth and anyone else: I hate spending $200 on a seat post but I would 
>>>> do it for my raspberry Platypus. The Rivet Sonora rails are short and what 
>>>> I wouldn’t give for more setback. If I bought that Nitto from Crust’s 
>>>> website (S84?) that WOULD give me noticeably more setback than the 
>>>> standard 
>>>> Riv seat post, yes? 
>>>>
>>>> Say the word and I’m buying that stupid expensive post.
>>>> L
>>>>
>>>> On Apr 17, 2023, at 3:09 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Not to derail this but with the Riv method of riding oversized bikes I 
>>>> am shocked that there is much need for saddles to be set back so far.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 2:06:44 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So the Jaguar has an insignificant extra 1mm of setback over the S83.
>>>>> We need a 26.8 S84 which would require a new lug for the S84, or a 
>>>>> change in diameter below the lug. I am not holding my breath for either 
>>>>> of 
>>>>> that developments.
>>>>>
>>>>> Laing
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 1:53:08 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Here are the specs from Nitto:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: NJ-SP72.png]
>>>>>> [image: Nitto seatpost.png]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 12:54:21 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Looking closely at pictures of the S83 and the Jaguar, I do not 
>>>>>>> believe that the Jaguar has more setback than the S83, let alone 50% 
>>>>>>> more 
>>>>>>> (according to the Crust Website 30mm vs. 20mm). They look equal to me. 
>>>>>>> The 
>>>>>>> forward bolt holes appear to be in the same location.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> [image: Seatp.JPG]
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Laing
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-4 andrew.s...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I found a new secondhans NJS jaguar 
>>>>>>>> <https://crustbikes.com/collections/seat-posts/products/nitto-njs-jaguar-seatpost>
>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>> for my hillborne on Ebay. New they’re 200 bucks, yeesh. Lots of 
>>>>>>>> setback, 
>>>>>>>> super pretty. They definitely out bling my white industries hubs.
>>>>>>>> Randy “ooo shiny” in portland
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 9:07:01 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>>>>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>

Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

The S84 is 27.2 ONLY. The S84 (I own 3) is why I bought my reaming tool.

Laing

On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 3:29:43 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Johnny - I know! Maybe it’s the swept-back bars? 
>
> Garth and anyone else: I hate spending $200 on a seat post but I would do 
> it for my raspberry Platypus. The Rivet Sonora rails are short and what I 
> wouldn’t give for more setback. If I bought that Nitto from Crust’s website 
> (S84?) that WOULD give me noticeably more setback than the standard Riv 
> seat post, yes? 
>
> Say the word and I’m buying that stupid expensive post.
> L
>
> On Apr 17, 2023, at 3:09 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
> Not to derail this but with the Riv method of riding oversized bikes I am 
> shocked that there is much need for saddles to be set back so far.
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 2:06:44 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> So the Jaguar has an insignificant extra 1mm of setback over the S83.
>> We need a 26.8 S84 which would require a new lug for the S84, or a change 
>> in diameter below the lug. I am not holding my breath for either of that 
>> developments.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 1:53:08 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:
>>
>>> Here are the specs from Nitto:
>>>
>>> [image: NJ-SP72.png]
>>> [image: Nitto seatpost.png]
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 12:54:21 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looking closely at pictures of the S83 and the Jaguar, I do not believe 
>>>> that the Jaguar has more setback than the S83, let alone 50% more 
>>>> (according to the Crust Website 30mm vs. 20mm). They look equal to me. The 
>>>> forward bolt holes appear to be in the same location.
>>>>
>>>> [image: Seatp.JPG]
>>>>
>>>> Laing
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-4 andrew.s...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I found a new secondhans NJS jaguar 
>>>>> <https://crustbikes.com/collections/seat-posts/products/nitto-njs-jaguar-seatpost>
>>>>>  
>>>>> for my hillborne on Ebay. New they’re 200 bucks, yeesh. Lots of setback, 
>>>>> super pretty. They definitely out bling my white industries hubs.
>>>>> Randy “ooo shiny” in portland
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 9:07:01 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Eric, I’m so glad you started this thread. I went through the same 
>>>>>> odyssey a few years ago and tried the IRD seatpost and it slipped like 
>>>>>> crazy. Riv took it back and stopped selling it because it was a 
>>>>>> widespread 
>>>>>> problem. I want a bit more setback on my Platy so I’m going to take 
>>>>>> Liz’s 
>>>>>> recommendation.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Liz - thank you SO much! I was led to believe during my search that I 
>>>>>> was out of luck because most seatposts come in the-27-whatever size and 
>>>>>> not 
>>>>>> our uncommon 26.8. Can this seat post really work well at only $15?!? 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Much thanks,
>>>>>> Leah
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 10:42:42 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-12 at 10.40.34 PM.png]
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi all — I'm comparing 26.8 seatposts and their varying setback. I'd 
>>>>>>> like the saddle on my MB-2 to be further back. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with how a Thompson and 
>>>>>>> Nitto S83 compare in terms of setback? I've been searching around and 
>>>>>>> can't 
>>>>>>> find any definitive measurements. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm currently running a Suntour XC Pro seatpost and it looks like 
>>>>>>> either of the above will give me more setback than I currently have.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've tried and very much did *not* like the IRD wayback seatpost, 
>>>>>>> it slips. Others have reported the same. Don't buy this seatpost! 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The vintage SR MTE-100 is good, solid, I run one on my Appaloosa. 
>>>>>>> Would rather try something different. Plus, they're hard to find! 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

So the Jaguar has an insignificant extra 1mm of setback over the S83.
We need a 26.8 S84 which would require a new lug for the S84, or a change 
in diameter below the lug. I am not holding my breath for either of that 
developments.

Laing

On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 1:53:08 PM UTC-4 Mr. Ray wrote:

> Here are the specs from Nitto:
>
> [image: NJ-SP72.png]
> [image: Nitto seatpost.png]
>
> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 12:54:21 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Looking closely at pictures of the S83 and the Jaguar, I do not believe 
>> that the Jaguar has more setback than the S83, let alone 50% more 
>> (according to the Crust Website 30mm vs. 20mm). They look equal to me. The 
>> forward bolt holes appear to be in the same location.
>>
>> [image: Seatp.JPG]
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-4 andrew.s...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I found a new secondhans NJS jaguar 
>>> <https://crustbikes.com/collections/seat-posts/products/nitto-njs-jaguar-seatpost>
>>>  
>>> for my hillborne on Ebay. New they’re 200 bucks, yeesh. Lots of setback, 
>>> super pretty. They definitely out bling my white industries hubs.
>>> Randy “ooo shiny” in portland
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 9:07:01 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Eric, I’m so glad you started this thread. I went through the same 
>>>> odyssey a few years ago and tried the IRD seatpost and it slipped like 
>>>> crazy. Riv took it back and stopped selling it because it was a widespread 
>>>> problem. I want a bit more setback on my Platy so I’m going to take Liz’s 
>>>> recommendation.
>>>>
>>>> Liz - thank you SO much! I was led to believe during my search that I 
>>>> was out of luck because most seatposts come in the-27-whatever size and 
>>>> not 
>>>> our uncommon 26.8. Can this seat post really work well at only $15?!? 
>>>>
>>>> Much thanks,
>>>> Leah
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 10:42:42 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-12 at 10.40.34 PM.png]
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi all — I'm comparing 26.8 seatposts and their varying setback. I'd 
>>>>> like the saddle on my MB-2 to be further back. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with how a Thompson and 
>>>>> Nitto S83 compare in terms of setback? I've been searching around and 
>>>>> can't 
>>>>> find any definitive measurements. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm currently running a Suntour XC Pro seatpost and it looks like 
>>>>> either of the above will give me more setback than I currently have.  
>>>>>
>>>>> I've tried and very much did *not* like the IRD wayback seatpost, it 
>>>>> slips. Others have reported the same. Don't buy this seatpost! 
>>>>>
>>>>> The vintage SR MTE-100 is good, solid, I run one on my Appaloosa. 
>>>>> Would rather try something different. Plus, they're hard to find! 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

Looking closely at pictures of the S83 and the Jaguar, I do not believe 
that the Jaguar has more setback than the S83, let alone 50% more 
(according to the Crust Website 30mm vs. 20mm). They look equal to me. The 
forward bolt holes appear to be in the same location.

[image: Seatp.JPG]

Laing

On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:49:19 AM UTC-4 andrew.s...@gmail.com wrote:

> I found a new secondhans NJS jaguar 
> 
>  
> for my hillborne on Ebay. New they’re 200 bucks, yeesh. Lots of setback, 
> super pretty. They definitely out bling my white industries hubs.
> Randy “ooo shiny” in portland
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 9:07:01 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Eric, I’m so glad you started this thread. I went through the same 
>> odyssey a few years ago and tried the IRD seatpost and it slipped like 
>> crazy. Riv took it back and stopped selling it because it was a widespread 
>> problem. I want a bit more setback on my Platy so I’m going to take Liz’s 
>> recommendation.
>>
>> Liz - thank you SO much! I was led to believe during my search that I was 
>> out of luck because most seatposts come in the-27-whatever size and not our 
>> uncommon 26.8. Can this seat post really work well at only $15?!? 
>>
>> Much thanks,
>> Leah
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 10:42:42 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-12 at 10.40.34 PM.png]
>>>
>>> Hi all — I'm comparing 26.8 seatposts and their varying setback. I'd 
>>> like the saddle on my MB-2 to be further back. 
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with how a Thompson and Nitto 
>>> S83 compare in terms of setback? I've been searching around and can't find 
>>> any definitive measurements. 
>>>
>>> I'm currently running a Suntour XC Pro seatpost and it looks like either 
>>> of the above will give me more setback than I currently have.  
>>>
>>> I've tried and very much did *not* like the IRD wayback seatpost, it 
>>> slips. Others have reported the same. Don't buy this seatpost! 
>>>
>>> The vintage SR MTE-100 is good, solid, I run one on my Appaloosa. Would 
>>> rather try something different. Plus, they're hard to find! 
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Lovely Blue Riv Custom

[lconley]

I waited 18 months from order date to shipping date. I have actually spent 
more time assembling and changing parts than that. I still haven't posted a 
finished picture, as I have yet to tape the handlebars, still playing with 
stem length (90mm or 100mm Nitto lugged - ?).

I note that the blue custom is similar to mine (and I believe Joe's) in two 
ways - 1) no fancy Rivendell Custom lugs, just the standard Rivendell lugs 
and 2) a fillet brazed bottom bracket. I wonder if this is a result of 
Grant's evolving design philosophy - the existing stock of custom lugs no 
longer fit the new designs? 

Laing

On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 1:09:59 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> Worth a look. The 2 Marks and Joe Bell have worked their usual magic.
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/joshs-rivendell-custom?mc_cid=d5e44cc458_eid=0074b52ae1
>  
>
> I wonder if the custom program will ever return. I know Riv says it's a 
> huge time and money sink, but I love seeing what people order for their 
> customs and ogling the fine craftsmanship on display. Josh, whoever he is, 
> must be thrilled after what was apparently a lengthy wait. But the result 
> was worth it, judging by the pictures. 
>
> Just sayin'
>
> Ryan
>

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[RBW] Re: Disk brake dissatisfaction, switch to rim brakes [Was: Son Hub advice]

[lconley]

Hydraulic disc brakes - turn the bike upside down or lay it on it's side 
and the brakes get mushy. It is impossible to get 100% of the air out of 
the system, so the "best" mechanics tell me , so changing the orientation 
of the bike will reintroduce air into the system and then you have to play 
with the brakes for a minute or so to get them back. 
Quick release disc brakes - have to reposition the caliper most of the time 
after re-installing the wheel. 

Advantages of disk brakes - none that I have found. Just like V-brakes, I 
cannot find any real increase in braking with disc or V-brakes over 
cantilevers. Cantilevers have a slight advantage over side-pulls, but very 
little over center-pulls. I spent the money on Paul Klampers and brake 
levers. The levers are the best, money well spent, and the Klampers are 
better than BB-7s in that they set up easier, but better braking than rim 
brakes - I would like to see it to justify the money, but I cannot.

I put all the hoopla about the advantages of disc brakes in the same 
category as frame "planing". I just don't see it. The Emperor has no 
clothes.
Has Jan Heine ever done any scientific research on brakes the way he has 
with tires?
The only truly massive difference in braking that I have ever seen is when 
I went from chrome rims (Schwinn Varsity Sport) to aluminum rims (Schwinn 
Super Sport) *in the rain*, now that is a big difference!

I like a bike that disappears when I ride. I check the tire pressure, then 
get on and "Just Ride".
I don't have to worry about replacing batteries in the lights or 
derailleurs, it doesn't handle weird or fight me, it doesn't beat me to 
death, everything just works. Inflating deflated tires (common thing when 
you own too many bikes) only requires a pump, not a procedure.

Laing
who doesn't necessarily take cycling advice from people whose parents 
weren't born when I rode my 1st century

On Sunday, April 16, 2023 at 12:10:34 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> New thread to avoid my habit of yanking threads off-thread.
>
> I'm curious to hear details of the problems you faced, the problems that 
> frustrated you about disk brakes. 
>
> I ask because I've found even cable disk brakes, and even *really cheap* 
> cable 
> disk brakes (OEM Tektros or what have you on the Monocog: these were so 
> cheap they didn't even have pad adjusters; the only adjuster was the 
> cables), and even cable disk brakes *pulled by road levers* perfectly 
> ordinary and acceptable. On my Monocog 29er I have Shimano 600 AX lever 
> (short pull, so I read) pulling Road BB7s, and they perform at least as 
> well as most single pivot and centerpull calipers I've used -- more power, 
> poorer modulation. I don't get rubbing, the "feel" is firm, the brakes stop 
> fine; not the crushing power of hydraulics but "fine" -- I can hurt myself 
> with the front brake.
>
> Now, when I first used disks on my first 2010 Monocog 29er, I did have 
> problems: very weak (oh, so laughably weak), rubbing, mushy levers; both 
> with MTB BB7s and long-pull drop bar levers, and Road BB7s and standard 
> road levers. 
>
> But in frustration I researched BB7 setup, and learned a crucial trick: 
> don't attach the cable to the actuation arm when the arm is fully relaxed; 
> move the arm ~1/3 through its travel and attach the cable at that point. 
> Wala; problem solved.
>
> Now, with the Road BB7s on the current 2012 Monocog 29er I do find that I 
> often have to mess with caliper positioning (not pad adjustment; 
> re-positioning the entire caliper) when I remove and then replace a wheel; 
> but this is accomplished simply by releasing the caliper mounting bolts, 
> squeezing the lever, and re-tightening. This does not happen every time I 
> remove and replace a wheel, and when it does happen it takes just a minute 
> per caliper/wheel. *And* I use sealant in tubeless tires, so this happens 
> as often as I have to adjust chain tension on the ss drivetrain.
>
> And: the hybrid cable/hydraulic TRP HyRds: these are absolutely foolproof; 
> set them up and afterward the only thing you have to do is remember not to 
> squeeze the brake levers with the wheel removed, unless you insert a shim 
> between the pads. 
>
> Now, I ride in dry, dusty conditions. Very dusty conditions, as 3 or 4 
> inch silty sand, will occasionally -- "occasionally" -- cause a very faint 
> "whisp-whisp-whisp" sound from pads and rotors, but this goes away once you 
> get to firmer ground and it does not cause any noticeable drag. I have had 
> excruciatingly loud squeal with wet pads but that occurred with a 
> particular pad/rotor combo, and not with others.
>
> I'll be interested to hear more about the problems, including a 
> description of the calipers, levers, and whether cable or hydraulic or 
> hybrid.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2023 at 9:22 AM ascpgh  wrote:
>
>> ...  My fifteen year experiment with discs on drop bar, bar end shifter 
>> bikes lead me to spec cantilevers on my custom 

[RBW] Re: Son Hub advice

[lconley]

Disc brakes with quick release hubs are a PITA.  Get the widest SON 
non-disc hub that that you can afford.
But remember, this advice is coming from an overweight guy who builds new 
wheels for himself several times a year, so I go all-in on wheel strength, 
I have a huge parts stash, and I know that obsolete parts are just an eBay 
search away.

Peter White, the generator hub guru, is the importer for SON hubs and also 
sells Panasonic generator hubs (until his current stock sells out) $60 for 
non disc, $70 for disc. You could build two Panasonic hubbed wheels for the 
price of a SON hubbed wheel if you wanted. But get the wide SON hub wheel.

Laing
Who owns four SON hubs (1 disc), two Shimano generator hubs,  one Shutter 
Precision disc generator hub, one Sturmey Archer OG drum brake Dynohub, one 
Panasonic disc Dyna Hub, one Sanyo bottom bracket mounted generator, one 
Flying Pigeon OE bottle generator, and one VO sourced generator hub (that 
doesn't play well with LED lights) that I cannot remember the manufacturer 
of.

On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 7:47:32 AM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi, 
>
> I'm looking to get the Son dynamo hub. Considering it's price I'd rather 
> make an informed (still quite impulsive) decision..hah!
>
> I have a bike with both rim and disc brake mounts (with QR) so I usually 
> buy disc hubs, to future proof the hub purchase, but continue to run 
> v-brakes (for now). Is this a sound approach to continue with this buy i.e. 
> disc hubs with v-brake rims?
>
> Based on SON's website, I think Son28 would be appropriate considering 
> it's better to charge devices at low speeds. So, in this case I would take 
> the "SON 28 Hub Dynamo - 6-Bolt - QR".
>
> Thank you for your insight!
> Peter
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

My Clementine would need a spacer to use a 27.2 seatpost, the early Clems 
used a larger diameter seat tube.
My super heavy duty Bombadil was built with a 27.0 Seat Tube inner 
diameter. I used a brake cylinder hone to enlarge it, that was before I got 
the reamer. 
I completely understand people not wanting to modify their frames, but I 
just turned 67 this week, so I don't think I will live long enough to wear 
out any of my frames, modified or not. I have been working on my own bikes 
for 50+ years and have broken things before and it is not the end of the 
world. I haven't broken a frame yet, though.
I am not knocking 26.8 inner diameter seat tubes - Grant knows what he is 
doing. I have short legs and a long body, so long setback seat posts (I 
have 3 S-84s) and long stems have been my friends, allowing me to ride off 
the shelf bicycle frames. My Rivendell Custom has a 53.4 seat tube and 63.0 
effective top tube.
Remember, it is a steel frame and seat tubes can be replaced if worse comes 
to worse, and that gives you the excuse to get a new Joe Bell paint job.
Rivendells (including my 1st Sam Hillborne) had 27.2 inner diameter seat 
tubes for years, with few if any problems. Has anybody on this list ever 
had a 27.2 seat tube fail at the seat post?
I also filed my steerer tube on my Custom so that I could use a ReneHERSE 
front cable hanger.́HERSE   HERSE

Laing

On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 4:31:25 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> I cringe to think of reaming out the seat tube of my Clem!! Surely it was 
> designed to be as is... And I'm not calling anyone shirley.
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 4:28:40 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> I am not going to lend my reamer out, nor am I going to be responsible 
>> for shipping frames, but if anyone wants to drop by Delray Beach or bring 
>> their frame to the meet in Ashville, NC the weekend of July 7-9, I would be 
>> happy to do the deed.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 3:39:37 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Laing, are you offering to perform this service for us helpless Listers? 
>>> 
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Apr 13, 2023, at 3:03 PM, lconley  wrote:
>>>
>>> 27.2 Seat Tube Reamer + Nitto S84:
>>>
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 1:41:26 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I can’t tell you how many times I’ve raised my fist in the air and 
>>>> cursed the decision of the 26.8 seatpost.
>>>>
>>>> On Apr 13, 2023, at 1:30 PM, Garth  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> FWIW Leah, The Kalloy post that Riv includes with frames already has 
>>>> 25mm of setback and the model 602 has 24mm. They don't make one with any 
>>>> more than that, and some less. A few mm's plus or minus is hardly worthy 
>>>> of 
>>>> a new post.There's very few posts with more setback than 25mm in any 
>>>> diameter, in 26.8 even less. Seatpost specs is something I took a deep 
>>>> dive 
>>>> in when trying to find suitable 26.8 posts. It isn't pretty. Life is so 
>>>> much easier with 27.2 posts !
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>>  
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>>>> .
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[lconley]

I am not going to lend my reamer out, nor am I going to be responsible for 
shipping frames, but if anyone wants to drop by Delray Beach or bring their 
frame to the meet in Ashville, NC the weekend of July 7-9, I would be happy 
to do the deed.

Laing

On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 3:39:37 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Laing, are you offering to perform this service for us helpless Listers? 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 13, 2023, at 3:03 PM, lconley  wrote:
>
> 27.2 Seat Tube Reamer + Nitto S84:
>
> 
>  
> 
>
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 1:41:26 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I can’t tell you how many times I’ve raised my fist in the air and cursed 
>> the decision of the 26.8 seatpost.
>>
>> On Apr 13, 2023, at 1:30 PM, Garth  wrote:
>>
>> FWIW Leah, The Kalloy post that Riv includes with frames already has 
>> 25mm of setback and the model 602 has 24mm. They don't make one with any 
>> more than that, and some less. A few mm's plus or minus is hardly worthy of 
>> a new post.There's very few posts with more setback than 25mm in any 
>> diameter, in 26.8 even less. Seatpost specs is something I took a deep dive 
>> in when trying to find suitable 26.8 posts. It isn't pretty. Life is so 
>> much easier with 27.2 posts !
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> .
>>
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[RBW] Re: Riv Ride in Asheville NC?

[lconley]

Great. I guess we have a couple of months to nail down the details.
Is this going to be more roadish or more off-roadish / gravel? I just want 
to make sure that I have the correct bicycle(s) assembled.

Laing

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 12:23:31 PM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:

> Hi from Asheville,
> Wanted to let folks know that we've currently got 5-8 local Riv riders and 
> 3+ (thanks Laing, Brian, Jason, and maybe George for letting me know) that 
> have said they'd be able to make the weekend of July 7-9 work for them, so 
> let's make that the official date for our Asheville meet up. If anyone else 
> would like to join us please let me know! Also happy to answer any 
> questions if you're iffy or want more info.
> Cheers, 
> Gary
>
> On Thursday, April 6, 2023 at 11:56:46 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the clarification, Gary! Those potential dates work better for 
>> me, personally. I have no plans for the month of July, and I am freed up 
>> after Sept. 10th for some bike fun. Hoping something can materialize for 
>> these new dates!
>>
>> -Brian
>>
>> On Thursday, April 6, 2023 at 11:41:18 AM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>
>>> That's correct - the May 12-14 date didn't work out so the July/Sept 
>>> dates were thrown out to see if more folks would be able to join.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 6, 2023 at 10:41:19 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> So, just to get this straight... did the previously proposed weekend of 
>>>> May 12-14th not work well enough for everyone? I was not going to be free 
>>>> that weekend, but if it's looking like a July date might be better for 
>>>> more 
>>>> people, then I may just be able to make that happen.
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, April 5, 2023 at 3:06:19 PM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi George,
>>>>> Probably not going into TN. We were talking about riding locally at 
>>>>> Bent Creek and the WNC Arboretum, possibly the River Arts District bike 
>>>>> path, and maybe a low traffic road ride around Montford and North 
>>>>> Asheville. With plenty of opportunities for brewery refreshments/food 
>>>>> during or after the rides.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, April 5, 2023 at 3:00:03 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> When you all call for a Riv ride "in" Asheville do you mean going 
>>>>>> over to ride the loop at Cades Cove in Tennessee by any chance?  Just 
>>>>>> curious.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 5, 2023 at 11:07:20 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I will be in North Carolina from July 1 thru July 9 - The weekend 
>>>>>>> before thru the weekend after July 4. That would be the best for me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Laing
>>>>>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, April 5, 2023 at 11:58:12 AM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>>> There was some talk about a Riv ride in Asheville this spring but a 
>>>>>>>> May date won't work for lots of people. If there's still any interest 
>>>>>>>> in a 
>>>>>>>> meetup, how would a July or mid-Sept weekend work for folks?  If 
>>>>>>>> there's 
>>>>>>>> enough people interested I would be happy to try to nail down a date 
>>>>>>>> for 
>>>>>>>> whatever month seems to work for most everyone.
>>>>>>>> Gary
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Large Rosco Baby in the next 12 months

[lconley]

I have a Clementine and a Rosco Baby. BIG, BIG difference. The Rosco Baby 
Effective Top Tube is about 4-1/2 inches longer that the Clementine. 725mm 
for the Rosco Baby 52cm, 610mm for the Clementine 52cm. The current Clem 
may be slightly different than the original Clementine, but not 4-1/2 
inches.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:40:38 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> We've got a little one on the way and I've started thinking about a bike 
> for a Thule Yepp mini front seat without knee interference to ride next 
> summer!
>
> I have pretty long legs for my 5'11" height - pbh of 90.5 so I always look 
> for bikes with short-ish top tubes or use very short stems which in mind 
> provide the most comfortable fit for me. I don't think any of my current 
> bikes is ideal, the proto Gallop has long chainstays and a swoopy top tube 
> for swept back bars so considering geometry, I think it is the closest, but 
> I don't think it'll handle the weight in the front very well. The Hunq and 
> Bomba can take the weight, but they might leave me feeling scrunched with 
> limited space between the saddle and the child seat. Maybe I could get a 
> long stem and a set of Boscos and try it out?
>
> Anyway, I've re-read many of the old posts about the Rosco Baby, and even 
> though it's hard to find a ton of info on these I decided that ideally I'd 
> get a large Rosco Baby. 
>
> Did the Rosco baby come in three sizes S, M, L (58) or was there an XL 
> (62-64)?  I've already sent out a few feelers hoping some kiddos are 
> outgrowing theirs in the next few months but my ask is that *if anyone is 
> considering selling a large Rosco baby, please ping me - I'm open to buying 
> the frame or complete anytime between now and next summer.*
>
> In case I don't get the Rosco, I also re-read many threads on Clem vs 
> Susie vs Platypus, etc. I discarded the Platy, not sure why but my current 
> alternative ideas are: 
>
> 1) Buy Ryan's Susie, but I'm not sure it'll handle as well as the baby and 
> the swoopy top tube doesn't make of a true step-thru mound/dismount but it 
> might work.
>
> 2) Get one of those upcoming Clem L's - maybe a 64 to have a longer ETT. 
> I'll slam the seat down, like Grant's 64 Clem which was posted on the blug 
> a while back.
>
> What do you think? Would you try the Bomba? Is a Susie a good option? Or 
> should it really be a Gus to take the extra (up to 33lbs max on the Yepp) 
> weight? Or should I just get a Clem and call it a day?
>
> Then again, if the Rosco Baby and the Clem are so similar, why was Grant 
> looking for a Rosco baby not long ago, knowing the Clems would be in stock 
> in April? The head tube angle and stoutness might not be the same? Am I 
> over-optimizing again?
>
> Thanks
> Max
>

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[RBW] Re: "You need 7 bikes" article

[lconley]

Let's see:

Beater - Flying Pigeon
Bomber - Gust Boots Willsen, Crust Scapegoat
Single speed - Protoveloosa/Mystery Bike, Frank Jones Sr., Trek District, 
Velo Orange Neutrino, Maxway Resurectio, another Flying Pigeon
Touring Bike - Bombadil
Lightish Road Bike - Rivendell Custom, Gitane Tour de France
Do-all racked and bagged bike - Crustendell Clementine Clydesdale Cargo 
Cycle Conversion
Mixte - Rivendell Keven's Custom, Betty Foy, Rosco Bubbe Medium Mountain 
Mixte, Rosco Bubbe Baby
Loaner - Bike Friday Metro
Project Bike - 1973 Schwinn Paramount P-15 restoration

Additional categories
Gravel  - Rosco Bubbe V1
English Racer - Pashley Guv'nor
Museum Piece - Gitane Tour de France (different one - original except for 
the sew-ups)
Others - another Schwinn Paramount P-15, Scott Sub 10, 

I guess I have too many single speeds...

Laing



Hi Tom — This appeared as a little blurb in Rivendell Reader No. 42 on page 
6 (online in the Rivendell archive here 
). 

[image: Screenshot 2023-03-29 at 8.14.15 PM.png]

On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 8:45:16 AM UTC-4 Tom Palmer wrote:

Hi all,
I recall an article by Grant about the number of bike a person needs with 
justification. I think it was 7.
 Any idea which reader it was in?
Thanks!
Tom Palmer
Twin Lake, MI

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[RBW] Re: Riv Ride in Asheville NC?

[lconley]

I will be in North Carolina from July 1 thru July 9 - The weekend before 
thru the weekend after July 4. That would be the best for me.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Wednesday, April 5, 2023 at 11:58:12 AM UTC-4 Gary L wrote:

> Hi,
> There was some talk about a Riv ride in Asheville this spring but a May 
> date won't work for lots of people. If there's still any interest in a 
> meetup, how would a July or mid-Sept weekend work for folks?  If there's 
> enough people interested I would be happy to try to nail down a date for 
> whatever month seems to work for most everyone.
> Gary
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO: 650B Tires in Fun Colors

[lconley]

The Blue Lug global website has the red Hetres:

[image: Tiress.JPG]

Laing

On Monday, April 3, 2023 at 8:36:37 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Like these:
>
> [image: Tires.JPG]
>
> Nifty Swifties are still listed on the Soma website but "Temporarily Out 
> Of Stock".
>
> SE bikes has yellow and blue 650Bs, but only in super wide (3")
> Surly has a grey sidewall 650B x 46.
>
> Bike Tires Direct has a variety of tan sidewall 650Bs.
>
> There are some orange Panaracer Gravel Kings 650B x 48 on eBay.
>
> Soma, Modern Bike, Bike Tires Direct, and eBay generally have the widest 
> selection of 650B tires in the US.
>
> Blue Lug in Japan has Cream colored and brick red 650Bs, as well as others
>
> BikeInn in Europe has a lot of 650Bs, I have ordered from them before with 
> no problems. They sometimes have things that they find in their warehouses, 
> that have been out of stock in the rest of the world for years.
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Monday, April 3, 2023 at 7:52:46 AM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> TL:DR, this is purely an *aesthetic* inquiry. 
>>
>> I've had my Riv for 13 years (!) and have alternated between the 
>> Panaracer Nifty Swifties (loved the tan sidewall, RIP) and, lately, the 
>> Schwalbe Big Ben in a 27.5. 
>>
>> Since there are 700c tires in a slew of handsome colors, I'm wondering if 
>> there are any comparable styles for 650Bs or even 27.5s? Bontrager makes a 
>> brick 
>> red 27.5 
>> <https://www.dedhambike.com/product/bontrager-e6-hard-case-lite-e-bike-tire-27.5-inch-364575-1.htm?variations=3682756,3856940_session_id=vt~adwords%7Ckt~%7Cmt~%7Cta~&_vsrefdom=wordstream=Cj0KCQjw8qmhBhClARIsANAtbocq9o8dJfo12vqT89kff-vfj2oTKJo9gAKEy78gIRn11Ei0H8YuvuEaAnmnEALw_wcB>
>>  
>> but I have no idea if it's any good. 
>>
>> Ideally it'd be great to find something like the Panaracer Gravel Kings: 
>> [image: 
>> Panaracer-GravelKing-SK-TLC-Tire---700c---Limited-Edition-Colors--340-184-4]
>> I don't work at a shop anymore so alas there is no big Highway 3 
>> catalogue to leaf through. And I ride in NYC so kevlar or similar flat 
>> protection is preferred. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "You need 7 bikes" article

[lconley]

Of all the things in life that I feel guilty about or fret over, owning too 
many bikes is not among them. There is maybe 250 total lbs of steel among 
all of them, 750 lbs of of material total. If you own an average American 
pickup truck or SUV, you have consumed more resources than me and a Honda 
and all of my bicycles. The current total is 23 (10 Rivs), 25 (11 Rivs) if 
I include my wife's. I am down from 30+. My longest owned is a 1973 
production Paramount P-15 that I purchased new in December of 1975. I 
haven't bought a bike/frame in almost 3 years. My current goal is to get 
down to 15 or less - at that point all of them can be hung on the walls of 
the garage (except for my wife's recumbent trike) so that I can get the 
rowing sailboat into the garage and out of the storage unit.
Thinning the herd is difficult. I find it easier to give away bicycles that 
to sell them for some reason, but I am running out of bikes that I will 
give away.

Laing

On Thursday, March 30, 2023 at 7:14:29 AM UTC-4 Steven Sweedler wrote:

> John, a breath of fresh air. Steve
>
> On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 9:33 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>
>> At the risk of taking this discussion in an unintended direction and 
>> opening a can of worms that, in my mind, has been opened for quite some 
>> time now, I find this question of how many bikes one ‘needs’ to be an 
>> interesting one to consider from a variety of perspectives. (Full 
>> disclosure: there are currently 7 bicycles in my shop- 3 of mine, 2 
>> belonging to my wife, and one is my daughter’s. There are also two very 
>> nice frames). 
>>
>> Considering this question from the perspective of our current resource 
>> crisis - you know, the one in which there are too many humans desiring too 
>> many things that our planet has too few resources to sustain- helps me to 
>> greatly appreciate the bicycles I do ride, but also causes me question if 
>> my ownership of any more than one bike contributes to the imbalance of 
>> desires vs. resources. Anyone else bothered by this?
>>
>> Another perspective through which I look at this question of ‘how many 
>> bikes does one need’ comes from my many years of living in developing 
>> countries in Africa and Asia where the ownership of a single bicycle can 
>> have significant ramifications for a family in terms of economics and 
>> education. In many of these places, that there would be one bicycle for a 
>> family of 7 (or more) would be considered a luxury. And so, to ask myself 
>> how many bicycles I *need *causes me to cringe slightly and immediately 
>> takes my mind down the road of resource distribution and equity.
>>
>> Finally, as an educator, I’ve always made it a point to help my students 
>> understand the difference between *needs* and *desires, *and the 
>> implications of each on our habits of consumption. Of course, in the 
>> context of this group and this particular thread, I’m well aware that we 
>> all agree that we are speaking about our desires rather than our needs, but 
>> still, it’s another perspective from which to come at this question.
>>
>> I’m sure there are other perspectives that might make this consideration 
>> interesting and, of course, remind us all how fortunate we are to own and 
>> ride so many lovely bicycles. 
>>
>> I know, nobody expected the Spanish Inquisition! (Monty Python anybody?)
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 5:53:28 PM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:
>>
>>> The problem is, there is always justification for another bicycle, like 
>>> the relatively new bikepacking designs (Jones Bikes for example) which also 
>>> do a very good job of displacing conventional touring bikes. Or a foldable 
>>> Brompton, just because. Then there is sentimentality, like my beloved 
>>> Marinoni which  has taken and continues to take me on so many  touring 
>>> adventures, but which I would not be shopping for if looking today as I 
>>> want ever more tire clearance from a frame. Then there is the poor, abused 
>>> commuter which gets ridden so much and so often, it becomes an old friend 
>>> and thus impossible to give up. Then there is the lightweight randonneur 
>>> and the back up randonneur. The back rando doesn't seem to ever get ridden, 
>>> but what if something happened to the primary rando?  N+1 is real. N-1 is 
>>> pure fantasy.
>>>
>>> Willet: Ecuador has some made taxes on imports of most products, but 
>>> Pasto in Colombia is only 50 miles from the Ecuador border. You could very 
>>> gradually bring your bikes in one at a time!  
>>>
>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 6:45:16 AM UTC-6 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>>
 Hi all,
 I recall an article by Grant about the number of bike a person needs 
 with justification. I think it was 7.
  Any idea which reader it was in?
 Thanks!
 Tom Palmer
 Twin Lake, MI

>>> -- 
>>
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To 

[RBW] Question - when did derailleurs become "mechs"?

[lconley]

In 54 years of working on bicycles with derailleurs, I had never used or 
heard them referred to as "mechs" until the last year or so. Where did this 
come from? Does it only refer to non-electronic derailleurs?

Laing
Old guy in Delray Beach FL

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Re: [RBW] Hozan Bottom Bracket Tapping Tool

[lconley]

I have an old Sakae loose bearing bottom bracket with steel cups from a 
long gone Raleigh sitting around that I could not bring myself to throw 
away because it was basically still good. Now I know what I am going to do 
with it.

Laing
Delray Beach FL

On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 2:11:44 PM UTC-4 JohnS wrote:

> Jeff, good point, a BB tapping tool would come in handy for the types of 
> bikes I work on, just to chase the threads and make it that much easier to 
> work on them.
> Bill, I considered a LBS but talked myself out of it for a few reasons. 
> There use to be one about a mile from my house, super convenient, knew the 
> staff, very helpful. Unfortunately a few years ago it became a Trek shop, 
> different management, different vibe. More recently they moved, so I don't 
> even think about them any more as an option. Also this time of year is when 
> people take their bikes to the shop for a tune up, so I would have had to 
> wait. Better to buy or make a tool to solve the problem.
>
> I was successful after making a couple variations of the thread chasing 
> tool as was shown in the u-tube video Garth provided. It did take a time 
> and a dental pick to get the threads cleaned out. They weren't crossed 
> threaded after all, just something which was very hard, maybe thread lock 
> or dried grease/gunk, I'm not sure which. The first iteration was to use 
> the Dremel cut off wheel to make slots across the threads of a sealed BB 
> cartridge. That cleared the threads on another frame, but did not budge the 
> Sequoia's threads. I figured the threads were too soft for the task, so I 
> did the same to loose ball BB cups since they are a harder steel. I also 
> bolted the drive side cup onto a 1/2 threaded rod so that I could turn it 
> with a wrench (see picture). I installed the left side cup to help the tool 
> stay aligned with the threads. This worked very well with a lot of oil and 
> back and forth turning of the tool. I was able to turn it in almost all of 
> the way in. I then removed the tool and checked the threads. This is when I 
> saw the hardened material in the threads and started to use the dental pick 
> to scratch it out. I then used the tool a couple of more times to get all 
> of the material out. Now I can thread a cup or sealed cartridge in by hand.
>
> The project is a '92 Specialized Sequoia, lugged frame, great shape, 
> purchased from list member Eric L a couple of weeks ago. Converting it from 
> 27" to 700c will allow 32mm tires and will replace my Surly Pacer as my 
> club ride bike. A classic sport/touring rig. Riv content: somewhere, 
> someone said, Grant was quoted as saying it was the best bike he had 
> ridden, or something along those lines, at the time of the interview.
>
> Thanks again Garth for the video, it really helped!
> JohnS
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:05:11 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I would think that if you brought a frame to a shop with the right tool, 
>> that shop should be able to chase your fixed cup in under 15 minutes.  At 
>> $2 a minute, that should be $30 or less.  I can't imagine that you could 
>> make a suitable home made tool for under $30 of headache.  There's got to 
>> be a good shop in the eastern half of PA.  
>>
>> I'd love to have a set of quality BB chasing (and facing) tools in my 
>> possession, but haven't pulled the trigger on the expense.  For work of 
>> that type, I pay Mike Varley, which is a 80-minute drive, but it's always 
>> worth the trip.  
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 10:25:21 AM UTC-7 JohnS wrote:
>>
>>> Rich, thank you for the offer, but I'm in eastern PA, so a road trip to 
>>> mid-Iowa isn't in the cards.
>>>
>>> Garth, thank you for the u2-video, that was very informative. I've got 
>>> some extra BB cups that I can sacrifice to become tools, so I'll give that 
>>> a try with a lot of caution.
>>>
>>> Eric, I'll probably go with the Hozan tools if the home made version 
>>> doesn't work out.
>>>
>>> John
>>> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:05:30 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
 No experience with the taps, but in my experience I would pick a Hozan 
 tool over a Park. Park tools just seem so-so to me. 

 On Thursday, March 23, 2023, JohnS  wrote:

> Anyone have experience with the Hozan BB tapping tool? My '82 
> Specialized Sequoia drive side treads have been cross threaded and need 
> to 
> be tapped. Park tool is too expensive for me. 
>
>
> 

[RBW] Re: Rosco Bubbe V1 build revisited

[lconley]

Two B-68 saddled Rosco Bubbe V1s in South Florida! I love it.

Laing

On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 2:16:13 PM UTC-4 frank_a wrote:

> [image: 77C9D83D-27E8-4F10-9473-B89263B87DFC.jpeg]There’s at least one 
> other Rosco in Florida, No 3 resides about 40 miles south of No. 7. I had 
> fun following the development of these on the Grant’s Rosco blog and got in 
> on the pre-sale.
> B-68 and Tosco bars; it’s a cruiser for sure.
> - Frank
>
> On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 1:35:36 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> 1st cleaning is in mineral spirits in a glass jar set in the water. For a 
>> used chain I would usually do this twice, after letting the chain soak in 
>> the mineral spirits over night. I use Ball wide mouth canning jars. The 
>> ultrasonic cleaner came with a holder that is the perfect size for these.
>> Next cleanings are in very dilute Simple Green Heavy Duty (kind of purple 
>> in color) - just a splash in about six cups of water directly in the tank - 
>> Temperature set to 40 deg C for 8 minutes - I repeat this until the water 
>> comes away clean. I de-aerate the water first (this also helps bring the 
>> water up to temperature. I originally was using 1/6 SGHD and 5/6 water. 
>> When the gallon of SGHD started getting low I started using just the splash 
>> and found it worked just as good as 1/6.
>> Last cleaning is in denatured alcohol in a glass jar set in the water. 
>>
>> Almost kind of hated to wax the chains after cleaning, they were so 
>> bright and shiny. The Wipperman stainless steel chains look like chrome 
>> after they are cleaned.
>> I first read about waxing chains in the 70s and never got around to it. I 
>> finally bought the equipment and wax 3 years ago, and finally started 
>> waxing about 6 months ago. I love that the chains stay clean and dry. Kind 
>> of throws wax bits all over the bike for the 1st few rides, but they just 
>> wipe off.
>>
>> The waxed chains are also almost silent - The Rosco Bubbe is very quiet 
>> with the waxed chain and Deore freehub, unlike when it was a single speed 
>> with the White Industries freewheel.
>> I have 20+ bikes and most of them have waxed chains at this point (2 are 
>> belt drive). Just a few more to go, but I need a new gallon of mineral 
>> spirits, just dropped off the old gallon of dirty spirits at the recycling 
>> facility.
>> I even waxed the NOS (New Old Stock) Sedis 5 speed chain on my NOS 1971 
>> Gitane.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 3:38:23 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> Great job on the rebuild, Laing.  I like your selection of components 
>>> and certain modifications.  Got a question for you, though:  You mention 
>>> that you cleaned the chain in an ultrasonic tank.  What are you using for a 
>>> solvent?  I use a tank, also, and I use this:
>>> https://www.ultrasonicsdirect.com/12decacl.html  It's a bit costly for 
>>> a gallon jug, but it's diluted with water so it goes a long ways. 
>>> George
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 12:41:12 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>>
>>>> I has this bike set up as a single speed for the first few years, but 
>>>> decided to add gears. I really love this frame, the 50cm seat tube, 63 cm 
>>>> effective top tube fits me well. As I understand it, these first Rosco 
>>>> Bubbe frames were made by Waterford. There were 10 or 11 of them made, 
>>>> mine 
>>>> was frame number 7, but I call it Seven of Nine (Star Trek fans will 
>>>> understand). I missed the initial sale from Rivendell, but got this from 
>>>> Rivelo when the original buyer backed out. The 700C x 44 Snoqualmie Pass 
>>>> tire are definitely plusher than the 700C x 38 Little Big Bens.
>>>>
>>>> Frame – Rosco Bubbe V1, frame #7, Flanker Green
>>>>
>>>> Headset: Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR - roller bearing lower, ball bearing 
>>>> upper 
>>>>
>>>> Wheels - built by Hands on Wheels; Rich Lesnik - 700C
>>>>
>>>>   Front - 36 spoke, Shimano Deore LX Hub, Velocity Atlas rim, double 
>>>> butted SS spokes - 3-cross
>>>>
>>>>   Rear - 36 spoke, Shimano Deore Hub - 9 speed, Velocity Atlas rim, 
>>>> double butted SS spokes - 3-cross
>>>>
>>>> Tires – Compass Snoqualmie Pass 700C x 44
>>>>
>>>> Drivetrain - 2x9 Pink Flamingo gearing
>>>>
>>>>   Crank – VO Drillium 48 - 34
>>>>
>>>>   Cassette – Shimano Sora-Ace 9-s

[RBW] Re: Betty Foy Brake Problem

[lconley]

I was going to suggest thinner brake pads also. At some point, the brake 
will only open so far and extra slack in the cable will not help. I run a 
Tektro 559 on the rear of my Betty Foy and a Dia-Compe 610 center pull on 
the front. I have a Dia-Compe Quick release hanger for the center pull on 
the front. I release the quick release and then I have enough slack to undo 
the straddle cable on the center pull. 44cm tires barely get by the pads.

If you have to take the front wheel off to get the bike in the car, then 
this is important. I do not use bike racks, so if I put a bike in the Honda 
Fit - the front wheel comes off. I prefer the Honda Element which requires 
no disassembly of of the bike (except for the now departed Hubbuhubbuh) for 
bike carrying duties, although I have considering building a mounting 
system in the Element that would carry several bikes that would require 
removal of the front wheel. This would mimic an original Element accessory 
that mounted the bike by the front forks with a quick release onto a 
bracket.

You can narrow the brake pads that you already have with a file and/or 
sandpaper.

Laing

On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 1:19:24 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:

> Would a thinner brake pad help? Kool Stop make their excellent thin line 
> series. 
>
>
> On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 10:36:19 AM UTC-6 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I'm familiar with the adjuster on the lever and with cable splitters, 
>> since I have a coupled tandem (which I will be selling soon).  The cable 
>> splitter won't work on the front brake since the housing runs from lever to 
>> caliper.  I'm not familiar with the Shimano in line QR.  Looks interesting. 
>>  Perhaps before I buy the next set of tires.
>> Michael
>>
>> On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 4:32:19 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:
>>
>>> Shimano make an inline cable adjuster with quick release 
>>> https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/SM-CB90.html
>>>
>>> Alternatively cable splitters would work, but they would not allow tool 
>>> free wheel removal  
>>> https://www.ticycles.com/components/da-vinci-cable-splitters
>>>
>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 17, 2023 at 2:12:27 PM UTC-6 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 The brakes on my wife's Betty Foy are driving me nuts.  This is a stock 
 bike, in fact it was RBWs sales bike and it came with Bosco bars, Techtro 
 559 side pull clippers and Shimano levers. There is no QR on the levers 
 and 
 a minimal one on the calipers This is a very poor combination as I can 
 only 
 get an inflated 38mm tire  off and on, while the frame can handle a 42mm 
 tire.  I wonder what GP was thinking when he made this choice.

 Has anyone found a work around to improve this situation?

 Michael

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rosco Bubbe V1 build revisited

[lconley]

1st cleaning is in mineral spirits in a glass jar set in the water. For a 
used chain I would usually do this twice, after letting the chain soak in 
the mineral spirits over night. I use Ball wide mouth canning jars. The 
ultrasonic cleaner came with a holder that is the perfect size for these.
Next cleanings are in very dilute Simple Green Heavy Duty (kind of purple 
in color) - just a splash in about six cups of water directly in the tank - 
Temperature set to 40 deg C for 8 minutes - I repeat this until the water 
comes away clean. I de-aerate the water first (this also helps bring the 
water up to temperature. I originally was using 1/6 SGHD and 5/6 water. 
When the gallon of SGHD started getting low I started using just the splash 
and found it worked just as good as 1/6.
Last cleaning is in denatured alcohol in a glass jar set in the water. 

Almost kind of hated to wax the chains after cleaning, they were so bright 
and shiny. The Wipperman stainless steel chains look like chrome after they 
are cleaned.
I first read about waxing chains in the 70s and never got around to it. I 
finally bought the equipment and wax 3 years ago, and finally started 
waxing about 6 months ago. I love that the chains stay clean and dry. Kind 
of throws wax bits all over the bike for the 1st few rides, but they just 
wipe off.

The waxed chains are also almost silent - The Rosco Bubbe is very quiet 
with the waxed chain and Deore freehub, unlike when it was a single speed 
with the White Industries freewheel.
I have 20+ bikes and most of them have waxed chains at this point (2 are 
belt drive). Just a few more to go, but I need a new gallon of mineral 
spirits, just dropped off the old gallon of dirty spirits at the recycling 
facility.
I even waxed the NOS (New Old Stock) Sedis 5 speed chain on my NOS 1971 
Gitane.

Laing

On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 3:38:23 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

> Great job on the rebuild, Laing.  I like your selection of components and 
> certain modifications.  Got a question for you, though:  You mention that 
> you cleaned the chain in an ultrasonic tank.  What are you using for a 
> solvent?  I use a tank, also, and I use this:
> https://www.ultrasonicsdirect.com/12decacl.html  It's a bit costly for a 
> gallon jug, but it's diluted with water so it goes a long ways. 
> George
>
>
> On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 12:41:12 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
>> I has this bike set up as a single speed for the first few years, but 
>> decided to add gears. I really love this frame, the 50cm seat tube, 63 cm 
>> effective top tube fits me well. As I understand it, these first Rosco 
>> Bubbe frames were made by Waterford. There were 10 or 11 of them made, mine 
>> was frame number 7, but I call it Seven of Nine (Star Trek fans will 
>> understand). I missed the initial sale from Rivendell, but got this from 
>> Rivelo when the original buyer backed out. The 700C x 44 Snoqualmie Pass 
>> tire are definitely plusher than the 700C x 38 Little Big Bens.
>>
>> Frame – Rosco Bubbe V1, frame #7, Flanker Green
>>
>> Headset: Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR - roller bearing lower, ball bearing 
>> upper 
>>
>> Wheels - built by Hands on Wheels; Rich Lesnik - 700C
>>
>>   Front - 36 spoke, Shimano Deore LX Hub, Velocity Atlas rim, double 
>> butted SS spokes - 3-cross
>>
>>   Rear - 36 spoke, Shimano Deore Hub - 9 speed, Velocity Atlas rim, 
>> double butted SS spokes - 3-cross
>>
>> Tires – Compass Snoqualmie Pass 700C x 44
>>
>> Drivetrain - 2x9 Pink Flamingo gearing
>>
>>   Crank – VO Drillium 48 - 34
>>
>>   Cassette – Shimano Sora-Ace 9-speed 14–27 (Sora 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 ,19; 
>> Dura-Ace 21-24-27)
>>
>>   Chain - Ultrasonically cleaned and Molten Speed Waxed Wipperman Connex 
>> Stainless Steel 9 speed chain(s)
>>
>>   Rear Derailleur – Shimano Dura-Ace RD-7700
>>
>>   Front Derailleur – Shimano RX-100
>>
>>   Shifters – Dura Ace 9 speed on Paul Thumbies, silver
>>
>>   Derailleur Cable – VO braided housing, Yokozuna non-crimp cable ends, 
>> silver
>>
>> Pedals – MKS silver Grip Monarch with side extensions
>>
>> Brakes – Front: Dia Compe 610 center pull, Dia Compe quick release cable 
>> hanger. Rear: Tektro R-559 sidepull
>>
>> Brake Levers – Tektro Mountain, silver
>>
>> Brake Cables - VO braided housing, Yokozuna non-crimp cable ends, silver
>>
>> Seat post - Nitto S-83, 26.8
>>
>> Saddle - NOS Brooks B-68, Honey
>>
>> Stem – Nitto DirtDrop 100mm
>>
>> Handlebars – Nitto Wavie
>>
>> Grips - Ergon
>>
>> Pump - Zefal HPX-3 Classic
>>
>> Kickstand – Pletscher
>>
>> Water Bot

[RBW] Re: SON Hub & B+M Micro Taillight: must be wired to the front light?

[lconley]

You *need* to wire the tail light from the headlight. If you do not, and 
you turn off the headlight, the tail light may burn out because it cannot 
absorb all the power of the generator. All modern LED headlights are 
designed to power the tail light through the head light and switch the tail 
light on and off with the headlight switch.
Back when headlights were incandescent, you could get 2.4W and 3W headlight 
bulbs (you still can) depending on whether you intended to run a tail light 
or not (tail lights were 0.6W). Whether or not the tail light is run 
through the headlight, the tail light still uses that power.
I have several SON hubs, an Edelux I, and Edelux II and several B 
headlights and tail lights. I wire all the tail lights through the 
headlights. The only combo I know of that has some issues is that the B 
Luxos U headlight has some compatibility issues with a few tail lights. The 
Edeluxes work with all the B tail lights.
The Edelux II has a tail light spade connection for the tail light wire. 
The Edelux tail light connection grounds to the headlight mount with a ring 
connector, it does not have a separate spade terminal.
Use dielectric grease on the connections (sometimes sold as "bulb grease" 
in auto parts stores). The connectors can be very, very tight and the 
grease helps putting the connections together as well as waterproofing 
them. Note that dielectric means insulating. The grease acts as an 
insulator, but the grease has such a low viscosity that it easily flows 
away and does not prevent the metal to metal electrical contact, what it 
does is prevent the connection from corroding. If the connectors are still 
too tight to put together, you can very slightly open up the female spade 
connector with a tiny screwdriver.

Laing
Delray Beach FL
On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 10:55:30 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I have a SON dynamo front hub, with an Edelux II headlight. I was planning 
> to get the  Busch + Muller “Micro” (µ) taillight:
>
>
> https://www.bumm.de/de/produkte/dynamo-rucklichter/parent/332/produkt/332alk-silber-332alk-01-schwarz.html
>
> Elsewhere, I read this particular taillight 
> "The µ is designed to be powered from the front light only"
> "This light must be wired to a front light, and should not be run directly 
> off a dynamo hub”
>
> I have several questions:
>
> Is this setup inadvisable/poorly-considered?
> Will the taillight sap power from the headlight?
> Is the B+M Micro compatible with the Edelux II and SON hub?
> Has anyone done this setup (SON hub, Edelux II, B+M Micro)? 
> Does this setup require special customization?
> What should I know before getting this taillight and setting it up?
>
> As always, your sage advice, experience, wisdom, and recommendations are 
> welcomed and appreciated.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillibikers - do you stand and pedal?

[lconley]

I have not felt comfortable standing on the pedals in many years. I sit and 
spin regardless of the type of bike. On a single speed, I will dismount and 
walk when the slope is too steep - not often the case in Florida.

I seem to remember a top cyclist from years ago advocating for sitting and 
spinning, but I cannot remember who it was.

Laing

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Re: [RBW] Re: Taking it to 2

[lconley]

It is just an aluminum baking sheet, probably from Target.

Laing

On Wednesday, March 8, 2023 at 5:22:08 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:


Is your work tray magnetic? I should get something like that; can you give 
product maker or link? Thanks.

On Wed, Mar 8, 2023 at 2:33 PM lconley  wrote:

In the meantime - a dis-assembled NOS 1972 40 hole AW and the longest axle 
that I could find. Just a standard 3 speed, not one of Patrick's exotic 
Sturmey-Archers. For the Rosco Baby. Original grease/oil was fairly 
petrified.

What kind of oil do you use in your SAs, Patrick?

[image: IMG_0146.jpg]

Laing



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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[lconley]

The other possibility is that if the bolt was stainless steel, it could 
have galled and again, penetrating oil will be unlikely to help.

Tools: I have a set of thread cleaning tools - these are for cleaning up 
existing threads, they look similar to taps and dies, but will not cut into 
/ remove the metal, thus retaining the strength of the metal. Hard to find 
in the smaller sizes, but the correct tool for renewing existing threads.

Laing

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:00:05 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> You hinted at how you got here later down the thread.  Can you describe 
> exactly how you got here?  The hint was you were screwing in a bolt into 
> your shifter boss and you felt a lot of resistance and you just kept 
> forcing it until the bolt broke.  
>
> 1. Seems pretty safe to guess you did not run a tap through the threads 
> first.  Right?
> 2. Was there a ton of resistance from the beginning?  -OR- did it thread 
> in easily, and then you hit the bottom of the hole and kept forcing it?
>
> Either way, the recommendations of "penetrating oil" seem a little 
> off-topic for this situation.  Penetrating oil is good for corrosion 
> situations.  This is metal on metal brute forcing something.  I think the 
> other takeaway should be that anybody who wants to pull together a build on 
> a frameset should probably have a tap handle and the three most common taps:
>
> 1. M5x0.8mm
> 2. M6x1.0mm
> 3. M10x1.0mm
>
> Doing those prep steps can avoid some major curse sessions...unless you 
> break off a tap!  That's heartbreaking.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:43:21 AM UTC-8 ryan.tre...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one 
>> of my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on 
>> boss (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a 
>> drill extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[lconley]

Thank you.

Laing
All alone in Florida for the time being.

On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 3:59:58 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:

> The Map of Riv Riders is ready!* Thanks to Dave's example of the 'Unicycle 
> Community Map' I've put together a similar interactive map that Riv Riders 
> can now populate with your location. 
>
> As mentioned, the purpose of this map is to help Riv riders find each 
> other, connect and plan rides.
>
> Here's a link to the site:
>
> Map of Rivendell Riders 
> 
>
> There is a Google form registration that, once completed and manually 
> updated by me, will put a pin of your location on the map. 
>
> You can 'drop' this pin in a couple of ways:
>
> 1. Provide your address
>
> 2. Provide a random address in your city or town
>
> 3. Provide map coordinates (latitude, longitude)
>
> Check it out and if it seems interesting to you then register and wait for 
> your pin to show up. 
>
> Cheers, John
>
> *I'll call it a beta version because I just learned how to connect Google 
> forms, maps, and sites together. Seems to work well though.
>

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[RBW] Re: Downtube bosses predicament

[lconley]

Use some penetrating oil on the threads (PB Blaster, etc.). Get some left 
handed drill bits and drill larger holes, preferably in the center of the 
sheared off bolt. It may be that the left handed drill bit will grab and 
extract the sheared off bolt all by itself. If not, the more of the sheared 
off bolt that you can remove with the drill, the better (the more centered 
you are, the more of the sheared off bolt you can remove) as it weakens the 
bolt. You may be able to use Dremel tool and to created a more centered 
starter hole before you start drilling. Stop short of removing any of the 
threads in the boss itself. Last resort is to use an EZ-out that is 
basically a left hand threaded hardened tapered tap that is designed to 
grab the sheared off bolt. The bigger the hole, the bigger of an EZ-out 
that you can use (bigger = stronger). DO NOT snap the EZ-out off in the 
sheared off bolt - err on the side of caution here, the EZ-out is very 
tough steel and hard to drill through. 
Not for the faint-of-heart, but you can also cut a slot through the threads 
of the boss and bolt on one of the flats of the boss. This will weaken the 
boss's grip on the bolt. if this works, you can repair with JB Weld, a tap, 
and a file.
Heat is another option, but I assume you like your paint.

If all else fails - -> Single Speed!

Laing

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 2:43:21 PM UTC-5 ryan.tre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello everyone, I've gotten myself into a bit of a predicament with one of 
> my downtube bosses; I've sheared off the bolt flush with the brazed on boss 
> (see pic below).  Any ideas on how to extract it?  I've tried using a drill 
> extractor bit with my drill, but didn't work. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ryan
>
> [image: 3DE5D487-0675-43CD-85A8-74193FE2964C.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PONCHOS!!!

[lconley]

I have the Grundens poncho and fishing hat. I looked on the Grundens 
website and could not find the poncho, but they still have the hat. I also 
have the MUSA splats. I was ready to order the gaiters, but they never 
reappeared on the Rive website (this was a few years ago).
The poncho works great on the bicycle (with fenders) - I love the thumb 
loops and visibility of the yellow. I have also worn the poncho and hat at 
an outdoor rain or shine concert sitting in a big folding chair - the 
poncho was big enough to keep the chair dry as well.

Laing

On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 5:07:46 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:

> Not to rub it in, but yes, the Riv Grundens poncho is the best ever. So 
> sorry they do not have them any more. Maybe they need to do  another run, 
> but I am sure then they would be $$$.
>
> I have the Grundens, but also have a Vaude Valdipino 
>  
> that is very easy to stash somewhere (I keep one at work) in case something 
> comes up.
>
> Edwin
>
> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 3:41:16 PM UTC-6 Dave Grossman wrote:
>
>> Love my cleverhood.  It stays in the bottom of the Wald on my Hunq and is 
>> there when I need it.  Highly recommended, and they have sales often.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 12:59:04 PM UTC-6 Slin wrote:
>>
>>> Oh wow, the Blue Lug poncho is designed to be draped over handlebars or 
>>> even a front basket, while still keeping the hands free to (maybe) signal.
>>>
>>> https://youtu.be/fLS69h0YwZA?t=194
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 10:50:41 AM UTC-8 Tim O. (Portland, OR) 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Also, from my experience, it's not possible to totally re-proof the 
 carradice capes. Even if you could, it's a big pain to proof them. 

 On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 10:49:20 AM UTC-8 Tim O. (Portland, OR) 
 wrote:

> I'd suggest you try to find a used Grundens poncho that riv used to 
> sell. They're way bigger than other models, super durable, don't have an 
> unnecessary hood. I've tried other brands, but the riv version can't be 
> beat. 
>
> It's really to bad they aren't available anymore. James from Riv said 
> he'd see if there are any extras hidden away, but I haven't heard back. I 
> assume not. I do worry that I'll never be able to replace mine if 
> something 
> happens to it though!
> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 9:50:55 AM UTC-8 a spen wrote:
>
>> I love a poncho when the wind allows, but when it's too blustry I use 
>> a rain jacket and Rainlegs Chaps** (such as in the Clevercycles link 
>> below).  I bought my first pair from Wall Bikes in NOLA (who remembers 
>> them? Sadly the owner retired and closed up shop) and got a good 10+ 
>> years 
>> out of them.  Well worth the $$ IMHO.
>>
>> (https://www.clevercycles.com/rainlegs-rain-chaps.html )
>>
>> Al
>>
>> **sorry if someone mentioned these already and I missed the post
>>
>> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 12:18:00 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I will say that it's been so long since I used a poncho that I 
>>> forgot about pooling. Last year I splurged and picked up a Gorewear C5 (
>>> https://blog.piaw.net/2022/09/review-gorewear-c5-shakedry-1985-jacket.html).
>>>  
>>> It is amazing piece of gear, and I'm enough of a cheapskate that my 
>>> friends 
>>> were amazed that I had good things to say.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 9:13 AM Slin  wrote:
>>>
 @Luke - Right now I use a Cleverhood because I already have it. I 
 probably wouldn't buy it again because they're so pricey and a bit 
 over-engineered (tech-fabric, and magnetic arm holes).

 If I were looking for a replacement, I'd look at the Carradice 
 waxed canvas, or the Blue Lug Fairweather Poncho first. But I wish 
 they 
 came in high viz colors/designs. 
 https://global.bluelug.com/fairweather-packable-rain-poncho-algae-green.html



 @Carlos and @Patrick - 
 http://yehudamoon.com/comic/2010-04-25/

 [image: yehuda.gif]

 On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 9:01:40 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I can assure you that water pools in the valley between your arms 
> when riding hoods on drop bars. I rode many miles watching the pretty 
> color 
> swirls from the oils (petrochemical?) leaching from the material in 
> the 
> puddle between my forearms, and emptying the puddle (during heavy 
> rain) 
> every few hundred yards. This happens more with heavy ponchos like 
> the 
> Duxback that don't flutter quite as much as lighter ones.
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 9:36 AM reca...@gmail.com <
> reca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>

[RBW] Re: FS: MKS Grip Monarch Gamma "Panda" Pedals

[lconley]

Aren't those actually the "adnap" version? The panda versions have a silver 
body with black cages.

Laing

On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 4:40:58 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> MKS Grip Monarch Gamma “panda” pedals.
>
> New in the box. Never mounted or used.
>
> $90 with local pickup in the SF Bay Area. Add $15 for shipping to points 
> beyond.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Taking it to 2

[lconley]

In the meantime - a dis-assembled NOS 1972 40 hole AW and the longest axle 
that I could find. Just a standard 3 speed, not one of Patrick's exotic 
Sturmey-Archers. For the Rosco Baby. Original grease/oil was fairly 
petrified.

What kind of oil do you use in your SAs, Patrick?

[image: IMG_0146.jpg]

Laing

On Wednesday, March 8, 2023 at 1:34:21 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> On-topic content: Bike in question is the 1999 Joe Starck fixed gear road 
> custom.
>
> Well, a year after I received the 2-speed fixed TF and TC-hub wheels, I 
> finally got the shifter sorted, or so I thought, and I've ridden both hubs 
> briefly and they're pretty nice! TF gives direct and 75% (52/17 X 24.8" 
> wheel = 76" and 57"), TC gives direct 76" and 86.5% or 66". The TF drop is 
> like shifting from a 52 t ring to a 39 t ring while using the 17 t cog.
>
> The TF has hardly any lash; it feels like a fixed cog and a well-adjusted 
> chain. The TC has much more slop, but less than the annoying S3X, and the 
> direct-to-2nd gap is far, far more useful.
>
> The NOS TF top-tube-mount quadrant shifter pulls a shortish amount of 
> chain and, of course, shifts the TF perfectly. I had hoped it would work as 
> well with the TC, but that hub was modified by having a modern AW 3-spline 
> driver replace the original 12-spline driver for which cogs are very hard 
> to find, all of them 1/8". (I've filed modern 3-spline SA 3/32" cogs to fit 
> the 12-spline TF driver, and I suppose I could re-swap the TC driver, but 
> it's easier to get a new shifter, and I found a NOS SA 3 speed quadrant 
> shifter on British eBay which I hope will arrive this month. The longer 
> pull of the 3 speed shifter ought to allow installation and adjustment to 
> shift the 2-speed TC and perhaps even the TF, since the cable pull from 2nd 
> to 1st is considerably more than that from 3rd to 2nd.
>
> Pictures soon, and more ride reports after I ride them more. But what's to 
> report about 2 speeds???
>
> The TC hub was rechromed nicely by a Seattle shop; the TF is 85-year-old 
> NOS (both hubs are dated 1937), and Aaron at Rat City Bikes did the 
> overhauls.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long ride on a Sam Hillborne

[lconley]

What stem are you using? I like that a lot better than the open face welded 
steel stems that Riv carries.

Laing

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 12:59:30 PM UTC-5 jak...@me.com wrote:

Great ride Paul.  If I may inquire, what handlebars are you using?  They 
appear to have more flare than my Albatross.  If I make a switch to 
thumbies, your set up appears ideal - love the Ergons.

I live in "The Town of Murals".  They make for wonderful photo backdrops, 
and only 3 miles away!  But I like your thinking.  The photo is far better 
to have been earned.

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 8:14:35 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:

Very cool ride Paul. So often destinations make together a chain of miles 
you never thought you'd compile or set out on purpose to ride. Deb of Rivet 
Cycleworks is clearly a mural art fan and often shows them as points along 
her rides documented on her IG feed. 

That fifth picture appears to be by Dan Kitchener, the UK rattle can 
artist/muralist. He did his first US mural 
 a couple 
miles from me on the side of a bar that had recently renovated and had an 
big blank side facing the side street intersection. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 8:19:35 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:






At least it was a long ride for me.

This was last Monday, February 27.


I had planned on 40 miles for this ride.

It was one of those days that weather, the bike, energy levels, motivation 
and I guess the stars alignments all synched up.

My missus called a few hours into it and wanted to meet on the trail and 
ride some too.

I already had 30 miles when I meet her and we did 21 together so I had 51 
on arrival back home
which would have been a good day for me as 40 or so is usually one of my 
long rides.

But I decided to go for more on my own so I had a snack and hopped back on 
the Sam.

When I hit 60 miles and didn't feel like stopping.

Why not try for 70 I thought?

At 70 I thought I'll do 3 more to commemorate an upcoming advancing further 
into geezer hood birthday.

So it was a long but satisfying unplanned 73 mile ride.

On the route I took I rode south from the northern portion of Dallas county 
to downtown Dallas, through downtown to Deep Ellum ( that's a funky and 
artsy area east of downtown).
That area has lots of wall murals.

Then I picked up the Santa Fe trail that leads to White Rock Lake.

I rode the While Rock Lake trails for a while, met up with my Missus and 
repeated some more of the White Rock trails.

After taking off again from home I rode some of the northern trails and 
then began to zig zag through familiar neighborhoods to rack up extra miles.

My  Sam was very comfortable on the entire ride.

It sports 700 x 43 Gravel King SS+ tires that help a lot on the bumpy 
streets of the area.

I was tired at the end and also the next day but the next day my missus 
wanted to ride to the library in 85 degree temps so we got in 10 more 
miles. 
I think that 10 miles in the heat helped the soreness.

Some might think upright bars would not work for that sort of distance but 
they worked fine for me.

At any rate at my age I felt it was a bit of an epic ride.

The attached photos were taken at stops along the way.

Paul in Dallas 






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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders in Western NC

[lconley]

 They 
>>>>>>>> could suggest routes. Or we could do a section of the Blue Ridge 
>>>>>>>> Parkway 
>>>>>>>> which would mean out and back or arranging for some kind of shuttle 
>>>>>>>> service. Parkway is beautiful. Lots of 'scenic overlook spots' every 
>>>>>>>> few 
>>>>>>>> miles. Hilly in lots of places. As best I can recall the elevation 
>>>>>>>> along 
>>>>>>>> the ridge near us is 3 to 5,000 feet. Riding up to the Parkway and 
>>>>>>>> back 
>>>>>>>> from Brevard would be about 30 miles, round trip. Or longer if you 
>>>>>>>> wanted 
>>>>>>>> to add some parkway miles once we got up there. For me, that would be 
>>>>>>>> a 
>>>>>>>> hard ride. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> What's next? Does someone here wanna organize? All done on this 
>>>>>>>> thread or do we start a new one?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Spring and fall are georgeous here. Summer too but it can be hot 
>>>>>>>> and humid. Plus, we are in a temperate rain forest so it rains a lot. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Had no idea my post looking for Rivs in the area would generate 
>>>>>>>> this kinda response. It's great!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Dick
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 15, 2023 at 2:24:27 PM UTC-5 
>>>>>>>> steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Dick, just saying "thank you" for kicking off this thread. 
>>>>>>>>> Interesting to see the number of Riv riders in the area.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If you ever take a notion to organize a Brevard area ride for Riv 
>>>>>>>>> riders (and Riv curious, like myself) I'd be interested. Between the 
>>>>>>>>> Brevard paved greenway network, the dirt trail into the National 
>>>>>>>>> Forest at 
>>>>>>>>> Pisgah Forest and the breweries/eateries along the greenway - and 
>>>>>>>>> whatever 
>>>>>>>>> routes you Brevard locals keep secret - I bet a low key party pace 
>>>>>>>>> ride 
>>>>>>>>> could be a fun event. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 9:31:53 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Thanx to all responding to my western NC post. Good to know. 
>>>>>>>>>> First..to Pamtook your CC class in Clt few years ago. 
>>>>>>>>>> Still 
>>>>>>>>>> benefitting from it. Good friend of David S who I think  is member 
>>>>>>>>>> of this 
>>>>>>>>>> group too. To Michaelwill keep eyes open for your father 
>>>>>>>>>> here in 
>>>>>>>>>> Brevard. At 73, I'm guessing I'm as old or older than him. :-) To 
>>>>>>>>>> Steve in 
>>>>>>>>>> Asheville. I know the areas you mention well. The hills around here 
>>>>>>>>>> can be 
>>>>>>>>>> brutal, especially for an old slow guy like me. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've ridden from my home in Brevard to the Parkway (Blue Ridge 
>>>>>>>>>> Parkway) once, up 276 and back down. ~ 40 miles round trip with 
>>>>>>>>>> tough 
>>>>>>>>>> elevation gain, especially the last few miles, before heading back 
>>>>>>>>>> down. 
>>>>>>>>>> Ever thankful for my super comfortable 61 Homer that Keven helped me 
>>>>>>>>>> with 
>>>>>>>>>> back when he was still at Riv. Great guy. 
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I get the usual comments about my bike. Nice bike! How old is it? 
>>>>>>>>>> Among others.
>

Re: [RBW] Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

[lconley]

OOOH, I like it. I have been considering doing some drillium to one of my 
kickstands (single leg) and have always wondered how they would take to 
polishing. May have to do both, now.

Laing

On Thursday, March 2, 2023 at 10:19:38 AM UTC-5 Ken Yokanovich wrote:

> I polished a kickstand for the build of my daughter's Cheviot and said to 
> myself "never again!" 
> [image: Cheviot Kicker.JPG]
>
> But then came the Platypus for my wife and I just couldn't help myself
> [image: Kickstand.jpg]
>
> In the end, my wife preferred a single leg version. You guessed it, I 
> found myself polishing another Greenfield.
>
> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 10:54:20 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Now that I've watched Leah's comparo video and kicked my kickstand a few 
>> times I'm surprised how much rattle the PDW shows. My Pletscher Touring and 
>> the swoopy-looking Pletscher make the same sounds, I'd return the PDW. I'm 
>> Team Swoopy! 
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:37:57 PM UTC-8 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>
>>> Of course we all understand.  I don't mind the looks of the new one and 
>>> would be willing to try it but then you said it rattled.  i don't like a 
>>> noisy bike.  I don't mind something a little weird looking if it's more 
>>> functional.  Does it at least work well?  Change is hard when you loved 
>>> what you had and just want that but it did break so you do want better.  
>>> But the new one should work better and look better too.  Can't wait to see 
>>> pictures of what you decide.  
>>>
>>> Along the same lines, I put on a new seat post and no one will ever know 
>>> the difference but it bugs me that it doesn't look the same.  So I know how 
>>> you feel.  It's a problem we all can relate to.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 10:03:21 PM UTC-5 JW wrote:
>>>
 I have full faith you can swap the new kickstand on when it arrives, no 
 reason to outsource that labor with your newfound bike mechanic skills!

 Jared

 On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 6:43:45 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
 Ding! wrote:

>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

Uh-oh. I am going to have to remove the tires when I reassemble the 
Bombadil to adjust the brakes now!

Laing

On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:58:46 AM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:

> I agree with Laing, I spend way too much time setting up canti brakes. I 
> usually remove the tires and even the fenders when installing them. This 
> allows me to see how well aligned the brake pad is to the rim as Laing has 
> noted. I prefer to use brake pad holders for this reason, set them up once 
> and when the pads wear out, slide out the old pads and slide in the new. No 
> adjustments necessary.
>
> JohnS
>
> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:46:30 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
>> That is a pretty good video - he uses the tool to show the 90 degree 
>> angle. He points out that lowering the straddle (making the straddle cable 
>> flatter) results in better braking. He even talks about getting the pads as 
>> close to the arm as possible with the Neo-Retro (wide profile) style 
>> cantilevers. To steal a phrase from someone - Approve!
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:19:44 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> I found this Path Less Pedaled video useful when I installed the Paul 
>>> Touring Cantis on my Atlantis: 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDdWIq4cLLo
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for your responses and particularly to  Laing for that 
>>> masterclass on how to set up cantis!
>>>
>>> Max who's still rethinking handlebar and drivetrain choices for the 
>>> upcoming Bombadil
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:13:39 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Remember that flat at the straddle and 90 deg at the arms fight each 
>>>> other - it is always a compromise.
>>>>
>>>> Laing
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:41:13 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it 
>>>>> through and will read it again slowly, but I think I get it: 90* to brake 
>>>>> arm pivots + as flat as possible at straddle, as little toe-in as you can 
>>>>> get by with to prevent squeal, and make sure that the pads meet the rim 
>>>>> brake tracks squarely. I've already done the last 2, must go back and 
>>>>> look 
>>>>> at the first 2. The single rear rack strut to seatstay bridge may limit 
>>>>> my 
>>>>> options in the rear. My pads are old Kool Stop salmons, the short, blocky 
>>>>> sort. I did make various shim tools for toe in, must seek those out again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 3:52 PM lconley  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models 
>>>>>> for reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized 
>>>>>> cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must 
>>>>>> be 
>>>>>> reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end 
>>>>>> all 
>>>>>> of braking, then why use levers that reduce the braking force? But there 
>>>>>> is 
>>>>>> something to be said for V-brakes having less tension (and therefore 
>>>>>> stretch) on the brake cable.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1. You want the straddle cable operating at, or as close as possible 
>>>>>> to a 90 degree angle to a line drawn from the brake arm pivot axis (the 
>>>>>> post brazed/welded to the frame) to the straddle cable connection to the 
>>>>>> arm. This is much easier on a Paul Touring than a Paul Neo-Retro. 
>>>>>> Motolites 
>>>>>> are basically taking the progression to it's conclusion (Neo-Retro -> 
>>>>>> Touring -> Motolite). Note that when working with Neo-Retros, this 
>>>>>> generally means rotating the arms as far towards the rim as possible, 
>>>>>> using 
>>>>>> the fewest, narrowest spacers between the pad and arm as possible (and 
>>>>>> that 
>>>>>> is allowed by your tires). This is where some "experts" get it all 
>>>>>> wrong, 
>>>>>> they seem to think that the rotation of the arm changes the direct of 
>>>>>> travel of the pad at the rim - i.e. the arm carrying the pad should be 

[RBW] Re: Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

[lconley]

should have said "pedal and seat curvature against things"

Laing

On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 9:07:46 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

> I agree - life is too short to ride a bike with an ugly kickstand! I 
> prefer the simple, classic, cut to length, Pletscher/Greenfield kickstand 
> with the small Greenfield foot - in the words of the architect Mies van der 
> Rohe: "Less is more." On bikes that carry a load, I use the double leg 
> Pletcher - single leg kickstands and a high center of gravity just don't 
> mix. 
> I rode without kickstands for decades - you kind of become an expert at 
> leaning the bike on things and using pedal against and seat curvature 
> things to prevent the bike from rolling. I went with beauty over function 
> on my custom and it has no kickstand plate or kickstand. 
> [image: kick.jpg]
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 9:26:39 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> You’ll forgive me for this unusual thread, I know you will. You will be 
>> compassionate to your RivSister who is yearning for spring after a Michigan 
>> winter, and if she can’t ride the bikes she will talk about the bikes. 
>>
>> I love my Rivendells. I used to hate changing anything about them - if I 
>> wore something out like brake pads or tires - I would sometimes weep about 
>> it in the parking lot of the bike shop. “It will never be the SAME!” I’d 
>> think. These poor coping skills came after wearing my Betty Foy tires to 
>> threads. The mechanic told me he’d have to get me something else for tires 
>> because he didn’t have that kind. Then he called me and told my I’d 
>> actually need a whole new WHEEL because my rim was cracked. He explained he 
>> would have to build one. After a week in that shop, my Betty was returned 
>> to me. I got a flat on my first ride. I went howling back to the shop - it 
>> was something about rim tape and it was an easy fix. But I had developed a 
>> distrust and a distaste for messing with essentials on my bikes. 
>>
>> I’ve mostly gotten over this. Especially now that I know about upgrades 
>> and how happy they can make you. But some things just shouldn’t need to be 
>> upgraded. Some things are so familiar that when they go missing or get 
>> replaced it’s intolerable.
>>
>> Kickstands.
>>
>> My Greenfield kickstand on the raspberry Platy inexplicably snapped in 
>> the back of my van en route to the Philly Bike Expo. A local shop replaced 
>> that kickstand with the same model (joy and rapture!) but cut it a hair too 
>> short. Was it going to tip over? No. BUT IT WASN’T THE SAME, I wailed in my 
>> head. I didn’t like the new lean it gave the bike. I wanted things the way 
>> they used to be. I decided I would spring for yet another kickstand and 
>> hope it would be right.
>>
>> I took my Platy to my local shop and explained about the kickstand. I 
>> also brought them one of Rivendell’s new shiny rear racks to be fit to my 
>> bike. I may take that bike on a RivSister Tour this summer and needed a 
>> heavy-duty rack (not the saddlebag support I have presently). The mechanic 
>> thought he knew what I wanted and ordered me a new kickstand that he 
>> thought would be EVEN BETTER. He said this in email, so I did not get a 
>> vote. I picked up the bike today. The rear rack was expertly fitted. The 
>> kickstand…I know he meant well, but…
>>
>> But it wasn’t the SAME. 
>>
>> It’s this foreign thing on my bike. Chunky and stout. It’s a Portland 
>> Design Works stand; this one, I think: 
>> https://ridepdw.com/products/power-stance-kickstand
>>
>> I haven’t gotten used to it. It’s been 4 hours. I don’t know if I can get 
>> used to it. This is my club ride bike and that kickstand is…a lot. The rack 
>> will get switched back - I just wanted the new one ready for plug and play 
>> for a summer tour. But what should I do about that kickstand? 
>>
>> I could buy the one that is on my mermaid Platy. I think I want to be 
>> done with the kickstands that you have to cut to size. I’m liking that this 
>> one is adjustable. 
>>
>> Is it as horrible as I think? I think it’s worse in real life than the 
>> photos show. Also, it’s dark and I had to alter these photos a lot so you 
>> could see well enough. Colors will be distorted. Anyway, I’m sending pics 
>> in the following post…
>>
>> Who will help their RivSister? Who can understand her peculiar brand of 
>> angst? Who has words of wisdom, or even constructive criticism? Who else is 
>> nutty about small things that barely matter? Who has been crying in bik

Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

That is a pretty good video - he uses the tool to show the 90 degree angle. 
He points out that lowering the straddle (making the straddle cable 
flatter) results in better braking. He even talks about getting the pads as 
close to the arm as possible with the Neo-Retro (wide profile) style 
cantilevers. To steal a phrase from someone - Approve!

Laing

On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:19:44 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

> I found this Path Less Pedaled video useful when I installed the Paul 
> Touring Cantis on my Atlantis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDdWIq4cLLo
>
> Thanks everyone for your responses and particularly to  Laing for that 
> masterclass on how to set up cantis!
>
> Max who's still rethinking handlebar and drivetrain choices for the 
> upcoming Bombadil
>
> On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:13:39 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
>> Remember that flat at the straddle and 90 deg at the arms fight each 
>> other - it is always a compromise.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:41:13 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it 
>>> through and will read it again slowly, but I think I get it: 90* to brake 
>>> arm pivots + as flat as possible at straddle, as little toe-in as you can 
>>> get by with to prevent squeal, and make sure that the pads meet the rim 
>>> brake tracks squarely. I've already done the last 2, must go back and look 
>>> at the first 2. The single rear rack strut to seatstay bridge may limit my 
>>> options in the rear. My pads are old Kool Stop salmons, the short, blocky 
>>> sort. I did make various shim tools for toe in, must seek those out again.
>>>
>>> Thanks again!
>>>
>>> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 3:52 PM lconley  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models for 
>>>> reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized 
>>>> cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must be 
>>>> reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end all 
>>>> of braking, then why use levers that reduce the braking force? But there 
>>>> is 
>>>> something to be said for V-brakes having less tension (and therefore 
>>>> stretch) on the brake cable.
>>>>
>>>> 1. You want the straddle cable operating at, or as close as possible to 
>>>> a 90 degree angle to a line drawn from the brake arm pivot axis (the post 
>>>> brazed/welded to the frame) to the straddle cable connection to the arm. 
>>>> This is much easier on a Paul Touring than a Paul Neo-Retro. Motolites are 
>>>> basically taking the progression to it's conclusion (Neo-Retro -> Touring 
>>>> -> Motolite). Note that when working with Neo-Retros, this generally means 
>>>> rotating the arms as far towards the rim as possible, using the fewest, 
>>>> narrowest spacers between the pad and arm as possible (and that is allowed 
>>>> by your tires). This is where some "experts" get it all wrong, they seem 
>>>> to 
>>>> think that the rotation of the arm changes the direct of travel of the pad 
>>>> at the rim - i.e. the arm carrying the pad should be straight up, which is 
>>>> untrue. The direction of travel of the pad at the rim is fixed by where 
>>>> the 
>>>> relative location of the pivot is to the rim-pad interface - only a welder 
>>>> can be used to adjust this. The pivot is below and outside the rim -> the 
>>>> pad will ALWAYS be traveling in a downward arc relative to the rim. Note 
>>>> that because V-brakes use the same pivots as cantilevers, the cheapest POS 
>>>> cantilevers that you can find vs. Paul Motolites - on a given bike, the 
>>>> pads are traveling in exactly the same arc, this is a function of the 
>>>> frame 
>>>> and wheel, not the brakes nor the brake adjustment.
>>>>
>>>> 2. Ideally, you want the straddle cable as close to straight as 
>>>> possible where it goes through straddle cable carrier -> the straddle 
>>>> cable 
>>>> as short as possible. This is a very unappreciated part of the equation. 
>>>> When you apply a perpendicular pressure at the center of a straight cable, 
>>>> you would actually get an infinite tension in the cable if it did not 
>>>> stretch. This a very handy thing to use in many instances - you can move a 
>>>> car with only a ro

Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

Remember that flat at the straddle and 90 deg at the arms fight each other 
- it is always a compromise.

Laing

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:41:13 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it 
> through and will read it again slowly, but I think I get it: 90* to brake 
> arm pivots + as flat as possible at straddle, as little toe-in as you can 
> get by with to prevent squeal, and make sure that the pads meet the rim 
> brake tracks squarely. I've already done the last 2, must go back and look 
> at the first 2. The single rear rack strut to seatstay bridge may limit my 
> options in the rear. My pads are old Kool Stop salmons, the short, blocky 
> sort. I did make various shim tools for toe in, must seek those out again.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 3:52 PM lconley  wrote:
>
>> Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models for 
>> reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized 
>> cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must be 
>> reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end all 
>> of braking, then why use levers that reduce the braking force? But there is 
>> something to be said for V-brakes having less tension (and therefore 
>> stretch) on the brake cable.
>>
>> 1. You want the straddle cable operating at, or as close as possible to a 
>> 90 degree angle to a line drawn from the brake arm pivot axis (the post 
>> brazed/welded to the frame) to the straddle cable connection to the arm. 
>> This is much easier on a Paul Touring than a Paul Neo-Retro. Motolites are 
>> basically taking the progression to it's conclusion (Neo-Retro -> Touring 
>> -> Motolite). Note that when working with Neo-Retros, this generally means 
>> rotating the arms as far towards the rim as possible, using the fewest, 
>> narrowest spacers between the pad and arm as possible (and that is allowed 
>> by your tires). This is where some "experts" get it all wrong, they seem to 
>> think that the rotation of the arm changes the direct of travel of the pad 
>> at the rim - i.e. the arm carrying the pad should be straight up, which is 
>> untrue. The direction of travel of the pad at the rim is fixed by where the 
>> relative location of the pivot is to the rim-pad interface - only a welder 
>> can be used to adjust this. The pivot is below and outside the rim -> the 
>> pad will ALWAYS be traveling in a downward arc relative to the rim. Note 
>> that because V-brakes use the same pivots as cantilevers, the cheapest POS 
>> cantilevers that you can find vs. Paul Motolites - on a given bike, the 
>> pads are traveling in exactly the same arc, this is a function of the frame 
>> and wheel, not the brakes nor the brake adjustment.
>>
>> 2. Ideally, you want the straddle cable as close to straight as possible 
>> where it goes through straddle cable carrier -> the straddle cable as short 
>> as possible. This is a very unappreciated part of the equation. When you 
>> apply a perpendicular pressure at the center of a straight cable, you would 
>> actually get an infinite tension in the cable if it did not stretch. This a 
>> very handy thing to use in many instances - you can move a car with only a 
>> rope and this principal. The cosine of 90 degrees is 0. When you divide by 
>> 0, you get infinity. If you want to prove this to yourself - make a 
>> straddle cable between the ends of a V-brake and use a straddle cable 
>> hanger connected to the brake cable cantilever/centerpull style.
>>
>> 3. There is an interaction between 1 and 2 - as you make the straddle 
>> cable straighter (#2), you lose the 90 degree angle (#1). On top of that as 
>> the cables, straddle hanger, and brake arms move, and the cables stretch; 
>> the geometry changes. With Neo-Retros, getting the arm as close to the rim 
>> as possible also raises the straddle cable arm interface up, getting the 
>> arm-cable angle closer to 90 degrees. Note that means having your wheels 
>> extremely true and minimizing the pad gap and toe-in. As the brake arm 
>> rotates under application of the brake, this angle improves - gets closer 
>> to 90 degrees again. As the straddle hanger rises under brake application, 
>> this also gets the brake arm - straddle cable angle closer to 90 degrees 
>> and increasing your braking force. But as all of this is going on, the 
>> straddle cable at the straddle hanger is getting less straight, reducing 
>> your braking force. With precise measurements of the actual relative 
>> geometri

Re: [RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

n (this does not apply to the 
Rene Herse centerpulls).  A velcro strap at the brake lever on non-Paul 
brakes to apply tension. My almost half-century old 3rd hand brake tool is 
too narrow for todays brakes - still works on the Campagnolo side pulls 
though. 

Laing

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 4:04:46 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> 1. Cantilevers too work better with tires no more than about 60 +/- mm 
> wide; getting a 3" knobby between the canti bosses (unused; the Monocog 
> 29er has disc brakes and is set up for both) is a hassle, even when they 
> are soft at 13-15 psi.
>
> 2. While I can get decent (my definition may not be yours) braking from 
> good cantilevers, at least I personally have found it much harder to get 
> "powerful" -- = strong retardation with moderate hand pressure -- braking 
> with cantis than with V brakes. I do like other things -- adjustability, 
> modulation, looks -- better about cantis than Vs.
>
> I recall the miserable power from Mafac cantis, both single-bike 
> shorter-arm version and longer-arm tandem version, on my Herse, pulled by 
> Mafac levers. I daresay I could have shortened the straddle cables, but 
> sold the bike before I got around to doing so (sold, not because of the 
> brakes).
>
> Laing: How do you get strong cantilever braking, particularly with drop 
> bar levers? I guess that one preliminary factor is to match the pull of 
> your lever to the needs of the cantilever; my Dura Ace 7410-era drop levers 
> probably don't have as much MA as my Paul Neo Retros and Touring cantis 
> need for best operation, but I love the shape of those levers.
>
> I'd be interested in others' *apercus *about this.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
> > Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
> really 
> > see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the fender
> > clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get their 
> cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>
> Laing
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

I might just be really, really bad at setting up V-brakes.

Laing
What is hilly terrain?
Delray Beach FL

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 12:50:28 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I need to get Laing to set up my cantis for me :)  I have found V's to 
> have significantly more power and tend to save my hands on hillier terrain 
> as a result.  I run Motolites on my Bombadil (and I have the canti bridge 
> just hanging there.. doesn't look too weird though) and while they do 
> become a clearance limitation when you're trying to fit larger fenders, 
> they'll clear anything that fits the Bombadil.  I wouldn't go more than 2.4 
> or 2.5 with V's although I see Riv and Crust promoting larger; and biggest 
> fender combo I would try is a Flat 65 with 2.1 or 2.2. 
>
> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently 
> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as 
> well and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness. 
>
> Jason 
>
> On Tuesday, 28 February 2023 at 05:29:32 UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>
>> The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
>> I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.
>>
>> Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not 
>> to play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
>> really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
>> ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
>> fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
>> their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are 
>>> more likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
>>> reason?
>>>
>>> Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? 
>>> Also, how wide did you go?
>>>
>>> I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
>>> racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 
>>>
>>> I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>>
>>>> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth post 
>>>> cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No silly 
>>>> overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking performance. I 
>>>> take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for a laugh in just 
>>>> thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain cantilever designs, 
>>>> including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable stop bridges. 
>>>> Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  Nevertheless, it 
>>>> stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is their own worst 
>>>> enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a witness. 
>>>>
>>>> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake 
>>>> away. Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper canti 
>>>> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame was 
>>>> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, but 
>>>> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
>>>> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
>>>> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold 
>>>> another 
>>>> story. 
>>>>
>>>> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave you 
>>>> without any brake at all :-) 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

The stem is the Nitto DirtDrop 100mm.
I went with the widest 660mm Towel Racks.

Big tires, big fenders with clearance to the tires and V-brakes tend not to 
play well together. I have V-brakes on several of my bikes and I don't 
really see any real advantage to them over cantilevers, unless you consider 
ugly an advantage. The cantilevers work just as well and have all the 
fender clearance that you could want. I am waiting for Rene Herse to get 
their cable hangers back in stock to get one for the Bombadil.

Laing

On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 10:53:01 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

> Something else I have now started to realize is that cantilevers are more 
> likely to rub against a handlebar bag. Are V-Brakes preferred for this 
> reason?
>
> Laing, what stem are you using with the towel racks on the bombadil? Also, 
> how wide did you go?
>
> I'm reconsidering my Riv Bullmoose choice and wondering whether towel 
> racks (660) or a spank flare 25 bar is a better way to go. 
>
> I plan on running a BXB goldback bag in the front
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Max
>
> On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 2:47:11 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> I use only cantilevers and basically will always ! Good ol' smooth post 
>> cantilevers that clear the frame as opened and open all the way. No silly 
>> overly long and offset pads that add nothing to the braking performance. I 
>> take a certain delight(albeit comical and always good for a laugh in just 
>> thinking it), in denigrating v-brakes and certain cantilever designs, 
>> including making/selling/defending frames without rear cable stop bridges. 
>> Call it what you will, as so have I. ((( laughing )))  Nevertheless, it 
>> stands. I could also speak about how "the industry" is their own worst 
>> enemy, in fact, their only enemy and the customer but a witness. 
>>
>> I remember not long ago before the Clem Riv couldn't give a v-brake away. 
>> Then with disc brakes becoming the thing, and dwindling proper canti 
>> manufacture and design , it didn't leave them much choice as the frame was 
>> a sales hit. It's like drinking a brand of beer you really don't like, but 
>> because the wife loves it, and you love the wife's company, you swallow 
>> your taste buds,one   bitter   chugatatime.   "Ain't this 
>> beer great ?   said with crooked broken smile and whose eyes betold another 
>> story. 
>>
>> What's life without a couple of good ol' stories ?   teeheehee . 
>>
>>
>>
>> So sure Max, Anything but a cantilever on your Bombadil would leave you 
>> without any brake at all :-) 
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Proper(?) fitting of a Bosco or similar handlebar & Nitto V5 stem

[lconley]

I am not surprised that he broke one of the stem bolts. Once fairly tight, 
you sneak up on the tightening,  about 1/4 turn per bolt (which should have 
been installed with grease or never-seize), on all the bolts in a 
criss-cross pattern, and repeat. You also check that the gaps are equal on 
both sides of the bar clamp/face plate. You don't just crank down as hard 
as you can on each bolt.

Laing

On Wednesday, February 22, 2023 at 10:00:27 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Now that's interesting; fun video. I was struck by (a) the skinny front 
> tire and (b) by the wide bar. I wish I had such firm, smooth dirt to ride 
> on. A bar like the Losco/Bosco/Tosco/what have you might be very usable if 
> you could set it up for cruising at the curves and use the wide ends only 
> for sketchy technical situations.
>
> But: 4-bolt and insufficient; that's instructive. This and other threads 
> about Rivendell widebars slipping in single-clamp stems, 4-bolt, 2-bolt, or 
> 1-bolt, makes me think that Riv should devise its own "Y-clamp" stem.
>
> Patrick Moore, resolutely bottom-trimming in ABQ, NM
>
> On Wed, Feb 22, 2023 at 1:46 PM greenteadrinkers  
> wrote:
>
>> Interesting... was just watching a video via Radavist called "Rivendell 
>> Susie Longbolts/Wolbis Slugstone (First Ride) @ Marshall Canyon" at around 
>> 6 min 30 seconds in the rider has to stop and tighten his quill 4-bolt face 
>> plater and manages to break one of the bolts! Looks like the stem is paired 
>> with a Losco. Gotta love the "You guys have beach cruisers" comment from a 
>> passerby.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbD6sgowP58=407s
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Signing up for Scary Things: Intro to Bike Mechanics

[lconley]

I started lacing my own wheels using the bike frame with reversed brake 
pads on the caliper arms as the truing stand (the brake pad nuts were the 
side to side guides, a 10mm combination wrench rubber banded to the pads 
for up and down), and a spoke wrench because that was what I could afford 
at the time - 95% of my net worth was my bicycle and the other 5% was my 
few tools (back in the mid to late 70s). I cannot recommend that to anyone. 
A truing stand is a wonderful thing, a truing stand with dial gauges is 
much, much better. A tension meter is also a wonderful thing, but one of 
the best things that I have added to my wheel-building tool collection is 
the $16 Mulfinger Nipple loading tool from Efficient Velo Tools. I think I 
would recommend it as the second tool after the spoke wrench. The dish 
gauge and Park nipple driver just gather dust nowadays.
It is really helpful to be able to think and visualize in three dimensions 
if you want to build wheels - not everyone can do that. I have even had 
wheels built by bike shops that specialize in wild twisted spoke wheels 
screw up on wheel builds - extreme differences in flange sizes can require 
different spoke crossings on the different sides of the same wheel. Look at 
an old Model A wire wheel for an example  1X on the inside and radial on 
the outside. I am no Rich Lesnik nor Peter White, but I can now build a 
pretty respectable wheel.
Learning how to work on your bike is a great thing, don't stop. Like the 
Boy Scout Motto - Be Prepared.

Laing

On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:31:40 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> It’s winter here in Michigan and business at the local bike shop is slow. 
> The shop had a brilliant idea to host a class for a small number of 
> students to teach basic bicycle maintenance/mechanics. Students were to 
> bring their own bikes, which was wonderful because we would learn to work 
> on what we actually have. Our teacher was quietly brilliant, extremely 
> patient, and, well, dreamy. (I would love to set him up with my friend from 
> my women’s club ride and then be in their wedding. Unable to ascertain his 
> marital status without committing harassment, I am still in the throes of 
> scheming.)
>
> I digress! 
>
> He taught us how the shop gives each bike a once-over. It’s an M shape, 
> starting at the front wheel, going up to the bars, down to the pedal/chain 
> ring, up to the saddle and down to that rear wheel. From there we moved on 
> to wheel truing, derailleurs and shifters, and finally, brakes. 
>
> There were three of us in the class; one aluminum Trek with flat bars, a 
> steel Jamis that had been ridden hard on the trainer in covid, and my 
> raspberry Platypus. We all had V brakes. They had indexed shifting and I 
> had friction. When examining our bikes, we/he found several problems 
> (though not on the Platypus because I drag that bike in for every little 
> thing) that we then observed our teacher fix. I now know what a loose 
> headset sounds like (the Trek). Though, ironically, if you hit my front 
> wheel to elicit the sound, the German mirror will respond with an identical 
> sound. There are some skills that I still see best left to the experts - 
> wheel truing, for instance. I audibly gasped when he took after the spokes 
> of a wheel to mess them up for demonstration. I am leaving my new spoke 
> wrench in the packaging because no good can come from that thing.
>
> I am still not brave enough to do a lot with tools to my bike, but I’m 
> working on it. I like that some of the mystery was taken out of it all and 
> I can see how parts work. Do I dare disclose here some of what I thought 
> beforehand? Oh, fine. I thought a wheel out of true meant they had to bend 
> a rim back into place. I had NO idea spokes were the culprit, nor did I 
> know you could adjust them.  And so on and so forth.
>
> Our mechanic was so encouraging and told us we should experiment at home - 
> don’t worry, he assured us, you won’t break anything. But I wonder if he 
> will feel the same when I show up with my collection of redundant 
> Rivendells; pieces and parts left over and collected after rolling around 
> on my garage floor. “I have been fixing my bike and now it won’t work.” 
>
> Anyway, it’s a small step of self-betterment and I’ll keep walking that 
> direction. I’m sure some of you out there can relate.
> Leah
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do your MKS Monarch pedals have spiked wings yet ?

[lconley]

They are what came as spares with my Diety T-MAC pedals - about twice as 
long as the ones that come with the Grip Monarchs. I am using the M4 x 0.70 
tap and 1/8" drill bit.

Laing


On Monday, February 20, 2023 at 7:34:54 AM UTC-5 rsb...@msn.com wrote:

> I put the wings on my commuter bike pedals. Nice with wider shoes or work 
> boots.
> What size are the set screws you are using? I'm getting ready to order 
> some bolts from McMaster-Carr. Could probably a bag of 100 pretty cheap.
> Richard
> --
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on 
> behalf of lconley 
> *Sent:* Monday, February 20, 2023 7:28 AM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: Do your MKS Monarch pedals have spiked wings yet 
> ? 
>  
> I have been at work with the drill press and tap. Here are my Panda 
> Monarchs and Adnap Kings. I had some long black spikes that I put on the 
> Monarch and am using the removed short spikes on the Adnaps. I have only 
> done one of the Adnaps. I am going full drillium - drilling out all of the 
> holes, but I am only tapping the outer holes for spikes. I also have a set 
> of all silver Monarchs with wings on my Rosco Bubbe V1 that will get the 
> same treatment, once I get some more spikes. 
>
> [image: PatformPedal s.jpg]
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
> On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 10:26:55 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi Garth,
>
> I just want to say that with the pedal extensions I felt very confident in 
> standing up and out of my saddle while riding, because of the more of the 
> surface area on the pedals. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA
>
>
>
> On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 5:13:32 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:
>
> H Garth,
>
> You are more than welcome. 
>
> I am glad to hear that the measurements exceeded your expectations and are 
> inviting you to consider purchasing both a pair of pedals and extensions. I 
> bought my pedals through Modern Bike:
> https://www.modernbike.com/mks-gamma-platform-pedals-9-16-raw-silver 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.modernbike.com%2Fmks-gamma-platform-pedals-9-16-raw-silver=05%7C01%7C%7Cc1a75db1c95740afeea008db133df2fd%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638124929014110193%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=wxfPqVvLMrcZGi4Rbt%2FVzfc9x4zqgVywJUUww5triJs%3D=0>
>
> The pedal extensions here:
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/mks-monarch-extension 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rivbike.com%2Fproducts%2Fmks-monarch-extension=05%7C01%7C%7Cc1a75db1c95740afeea008db133df2fd%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638124929014110193%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=2jRWCw%2BSqhGYFATJMPdnIT4bMr5ZEAy5K5I8%2BPHP07U%3D=0>
>
> The pedal spikes here:
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/pedal-spikes-32 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rivbike.com%2Fproducts%2Fpedal-spikes-32=05%7C01%7C%7Cc1a75db1c95740afeea008db133df2fd%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638124929014110193%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=OARpg8pYvBoDtf3qtuXIvgg9PXU1cLaf%2BHm4Akz9FPw%3D=0>
>
> If you have access to a drill press, it would greatly help drilling holes 
> into the pedals more vertically, than when I did it by hand with a cordless 
> drill. Mine were not completely straight.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Sun, Feb 12, 2023 at 2:02 AM Garth  wrote:
>
> Thank you Kim !  That makes for very large platform, wider than I had 
> thought it would be as the stock pedal platforms are only listed as 78mm 
> wide.  
>
> I'm certainly considering getting both pedal and extension. I have 
> multiple pairs of VP Vice which I have no issue with, but I'd like to have 
> some variety to choose from, for the fun of it ! 
> On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 1:53:09 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Garth,
>
> Here are your requested measurements of my MKS Monarch platform pedal with 
> extensions:
>
> *front to back: 5 1/8"
> *side to side edges: 5 3/4"
> *distance outside of crank arm to the outside of the pedal body: 3/4"
> *thickness of the pedal with spikes included: 7/8"
>
> Let know, if I left any measurement out. I think I covered it.
>
> Are you thinking about buying a pair with extensions for your bike ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>
>
> On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 4:27:05 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
>
> Hey Kim, could you please measure if possible 

[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

Mine doesn't have a built in hanger.

I went with cantilevers - easier to put bigger tires on with fenders and 
also I am using drop bars. I have Paul Motolite V-brakes on my Gus ( and 
other V-brakes on other bikes) and I don't see any advantage in braking for 
V-brakes (nor discs for that matter) over cantilevers, but I do live in 
Florida.

Laing

On Thursday, February 16, 2023 at 10:11:56 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

> Thanks Leslie!
>
> About brakes, what do you all think for the Bombadil? V-Brakes or Cantis?
>
> I'm wondering if not using the built in hanger would be a waste
>
> ideas?
>
> Max
> On Wednesday, February 15, 2023 at 4:37:33 PM UTC-5 Leslie wrote:
>
>> I built up my 56 Bomba w/ NeoMotos originally; then I swapped and was 
>> running my Ram's 700c wheelset (I am using Motolite brakes, so I could 
>> slide the pads up to fit the 700c wheel).   I did go back to 650b on the 
>> Bomba, built a 650b wheelset for the Ram (and am running the 700c wheelset 
>> on the canti-Rom... )   
>>
>> It's crazy what all you can do w/ these
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 9:15:22 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> I have 650B x 57 Schwalbe G-Ones on my Bombadil 52, but my chainstays 
>>> are longer than the 45 shown on the chart.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 9:08:07 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for sending that geo chart Garth! That makes more sense.
>>>>
>>>> You were close! I measured my Schwalbe tires and they are 44-45mm as 
>>>> installed on the velocity synergy rims. It's hard to gauge the true 
>>>> clearance of the frame without actually trying the wider tire, but I think 
>>>> 2.1 is ideal and anything beyond would be pushing it, particularly in the 
>>>> rear - maybe I can go 2.2 or even 2.3 in the front and 2.1 in the rear. It 
>>>> gets close as you approach the kickstand plate where the stays narrow, 
>>>> I'll 
>>>> play with it some more but my guestimate is that I'll have around 60mm of 
>>>> clearance with the wider/taller tire, so if I want at least 3mm on each 
>>>> side, that means 2.1 is the way to go in the rear, which means the 700c UD 
>>>> MARS Race probably won't work for me on this frame.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again
>>>> Max
>>>>
>>>> *All of the above is without fenders
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 1:00:57 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Oh sheesh, now I was confused too because the linked chart is wrong. I 
>>>>> just measure mine, and it's the same as your, 62cm c-c along the TT, 63cm 
>>>>> effective. I never used that chart anyways, it's either a preliminary 
>>>>> version or it's simply a misprint, I'm guessing a misprint as the ETT 
>>>>> jump 
>>>>> from 56 to 60 frame should be 60.5 to 63, respectively. Every geo chart 
>>>>> ever printed by Riv, and I've kept most if not all, show the 60cm Bomba 
>>>>> @63cm ETT. 
>>>>>
>>>>> As for the tire clearance, those Supremes are what, in the 46-48cm 
>>>>> range ? Yes, there's lots of room between the stays, and on the front you 
>>>>> can fit a 2.2 without a fender. Between the blades is 63-64mm I think, 
>>>>> where the fender would go. The chainstays and bridge however I'm not so 
>>>>> sure, you'd have to either apply some widened calipers to guestimate the 
>>>>> width and how forward, or just put a mounted tire in there. How much room 
>>>>> is enough ? Enough that you don't crash and burn if caught in a "jam" ! 
>>>>> ((( 
>>>>> laughing ))). 
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: 650b or 700 Bombadil frame question

[lconley]

I have 650B x 57 Schwalbe G-Ones on my Bombadil 52, but my chainstays are 
longer than the 45 shown on the chart.

Laing

On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 9:08:07 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

> Thanks for sending that geo chart Garth! That makes more sense.
>
> You were close! I measured my Schwalbe tires and they are 44-45mm as 
> installed on the velocity synergy rims. It's hard to gauge the true 
> clearance of the frame without actually trying the wider tire, but I think 
> 2.1 is ideal and anything beyond would be pushing it, particularly in the 
> rear - maybe I can go 2.2 or even 2.3 in the front and 2.1 in the rear. It 
> gets close as you approach the kickstand plate where the stays narrow, I'll 
> play with it some more but my guestimate is that I'll have around 60mm of 
> clearance with the wider/taller tire, so if I want at least 3mm on each 
> side, that means 2.1 is the way to go in the rear, which means the 700c UD 
> MARS Race probably won't work for me on this frame.
>
> Thanks again
> Max
>
> *All of the above is without fenders
>
> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 1:00:57 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> Oh sheesh, now I was confused too because the linked chart is wrong. I 
>> just measure mine, and it's the same as your, 62cm c-c along the TT, 63cm 
>> effective. I never used that chart anyways, it's either a preliminary 
>> version or it's simply a misprint, I'm guessing a misprint as the ETT jump 
>> from 56 to 60 frame should be 60.5 to 63, respectively. Every geo chart 
>> ever printed by Riv, and I've kept most if not all, show the 60cm Bomba 
>> @63cm ETT. 
>>
>> As for the tire clearance, those Supremes are what, in the 46-48cm range 
>> ? Yes, there's lots of room between the stays, and on the front you can fit 
>> a 2.2 without a fender. Between the blades is 63-64mm I think, where the 
>> fender would go. The chainstays and bridge however I'm not so sure, you'd 
>> have to either apply some widened calipers to guestimate the width and how 
>> forward, or just put a mounted tire in there. How much room is enough ? 
>> Enough that you don't crash and burn if caught in a "jam" ! ((( laughing 
>> ))). 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders in Western NC

[lconley]

I don't live in NC, but my sister lives in Pittsboro, and I generally make 
it up there a couple of times a year. I will be there the 1st week of July 
this year at a minimum.

Laing

On Tuesday, February 14, 2023 at 7:36:20 AM UTC-5 James wrote:

> I'm a Riv rider in West Asheville
>
> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 11:03:21 PM UTC-5 lukeheller wrote:
>
>> I used to ride a Riv Canti-Rom for a few years when i first started 
>> riding brevets in 2012.
>> No longer ride a riv but all my bikes are riv inspired. I've had several 
>> custom frames that are spin offs from my canti-rom.
>> I'm the local organizer for the Asheville Intl Randonneurs and live in 
>> Asheville if anyone wants to drink the kool-aid.
>>
>> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 9:33:52 PM UTC-5 steve...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in Asheville. Not currently on a Riv but am giving one some serious 
>>> thought (which is why I'm on this group). I occasionally ride fire roads in 
>>> the Pisgah starting from the Hub. Last spring I did a ride from the 
>>> Arboretum at Bent Creek to the Hub (still sore from that one!). Been 
>>> thinking Oscar Blues or Ecusta Brewing might be fun to start from and end 
>>> at. I'd enjoy riding with a group of Riv riders - if you'd promise not to 
>>> be too hard on me if I turn up on a different marque. Full disclosure; I am 
>>> old and slow.
>>> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 8:45:40 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>>
 I'm in Charlotte, NC.  We should plan a Riv NC ride sometime.  I'm not 
 much for climbing.

 On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 7:20:00 PM UTC-5 esoter...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Dick,
>
> I live in the flatlands of Raleigh, but my wife and I had a chance to 
> go on a terrific gravel ride with Michael on a visit to Boone. Michael's 
> a 
> wonderful guy and he knows a bunch of great rides in the area. Y'all have 
> some excellent terrain up there in western NC. If you ever find yourself 
> near Boone, reach out to him. It's always a hoot to connect with someone 
> on 
> the list in person. Cheers,
>
> ~Mark
> Raleigh, NC
>
> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5 Michael Iauch wrote:
>
>> I ride an Atlantis in Boone. Went to high school in Brevard. My folks 
>> still live there. You may see my dad riding an old diamond back with 
>> albatross bars I found in a junk pile and built up for him. He installed 
>> an 
>> electric assist on it! 
>>
>> Michael
>> Boone, NC
>>
>> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 1:36:10 PM UTC-5 Artaud wrote:
>>
>>> I ride my Hillborne further East in Greensboro, but after riding 
>>> back home from Floyd two summers ago, I've been wanting to spend more 
>>> time 
>>> riding in the mountains.
>>>
>>> Denis, in NC
>>> Le lundi 13 février 2023 à 12:21:08 UTC-5, Dick Pahle a écrit :
>>>
 Checking to see if there are any Riv people, other than me, in the 
 Brevard NC area. I ride a 2015 AHH. 

 Dick

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b Homer

[lconley]

Unfortunately, the black mountain article is full of such total complete 
nonsense on geometry "(Pad position on the arm") that I cannot take any of 
it seriously. Whoever wrote it doesn't have a clue. It doesn't matter how 
many spacers there are on whatever side of the arm, the arc of the pad 
travel is defined by the brake pivot and rim contact point. That contact 
point defines the diameter and direction of the rotation of the pad, 
regardless of the intervening structure.

[image: brake.JPG]

Laing

On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 4:26:29 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

>
> Read the BMC blog I mentioned.  He makes a pretty compelling argument 
> AGAINST using thick pads:
>
> https://blackmtncycles.com/get-the-most-out-of-your-canti-brake/
>
>
> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 9:34:25 AM UTC-7 mmille...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thank you for your suggestions. 
>> It is a custom Homer, and it’s a Waterford from about 2014, according to 
>> the serial number. It doesn’t have many mounts, actually. I think if i want 
>> a rack, I’ll need to use the canti posts. Need to look that up. May be 
>> easier to use a frame bag if I need to carry a bunch. I don’t anticipate 
>> this being a grocery-getter!
>>
>> I’ll keep playing with the brakes. I think I’ll have to add more spacers. 
>> The rims are pretty narrow. The cables are older and thick. The old pads 
>> were worn, so I replaced with thinline, but maybe I should have gotten 
>> thicker pads. 
>>
>> As you can see, recreational marijuana was legalized here, and the front 
>> derailleur is super high. I need to address that, as well. The seller told 
>> me he tuned it up. Lol.
>>
>> I think the bars are kind of like albatross/dove. I should measure them. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 13, 2023, at 10:04 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
>>
>> Just beautiful.  Well done!
>>
>>
>> So is this a new old stock saluki that you got to paint and decal the way 
>> you wanted?  I really like the color.
>>
>> Regarding the cantis,  i'm starting to think there's as much witcthcraft 
>> as science to getting them right.  Every once in a while I'll set some up, 
>> and they won't work well, and I'll realize that I've just been lucky the 
>> other times.  I have those same brakes on a bike and find them to be 
>> fantastic, so don't give up on them.  Small adjustments in straddle wire 
>> length make a big difference, as does the length from the shoe to the part 
>> of the brake that it bolts to.  (You can change the later to be either 3mm, 
>> 4mm, 5mm or 6mm by rearranging the spherical washers on the stud.  Usually, 
>> less is better (Less flex / bigger leverage ratio/start the pull with arms 
>> higher), but skinnier rims or wider post spacing sometimes mandate more 
>> spacers.  It looks like you can bolt the pads lower in the vertical 
>> adjustment slot, and a little lower on the rim, too - which should help.  
>> Again, lower is better. (Think of the leverage ratio to the arm length on 
>> other side of the pivot, to where the cable attaches.)  After your cable 
>> stretches and shoes bed in, it'll get better.)  Salmon shoes are great but, 
>> if you'll only ride in dry weather, you might like normal black ones too.
>>
>> Shelon Brown and Black Mountain Cycles have articles on canti setup that 
>> are worth re-reading every once in a while.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 3:09:41 PM UTC-7 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>>> Just. Absolutely. Perfect. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 9:56:06 AM UTC-6 steve...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Wow, I really like that understated, elegant color (yes, I'm drooling). 
I've seen that style of stem on  circa 1990's MTBs - I've  owned a Trek 
  that had one like it, though I think it was 1 1/8".   To my eye, with 
 your 
 level top tube a stem with about a neg 17 degree rise would complement the 
 overall lines of the bike. Maybe a Technomic  to give you plenty of stack 
 (assuming you're looking for that much height).   If you are inclined to 
 splurge that gorgeous bike might even merit a lugged Nitto. Might the 
 pads on the cantis be past their "best if used before" date?   I have 
 never 
 found shoe sole brakes to be very reliable. Enjoy that bike!!!   
 On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 2:06:11 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Man that's a nice bike, I miss the old flat-toptube Toyo and Waterford 
> frames. I personally like the stem but maybe it needs to be longer to 
> stretch those bars away from you a little more, being too close might be 
> why they feel narrow. But I'd ride it a bit first, the fit may work out 
> for 
> you after you've settled into the bike. 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 9:50:39 PM UTC-8 mmille...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I wanted to share a few pics of my new (to me) AHH that a number of 
>> you helped give thoughts on. I've taken it out a 

[RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

[lconley]

More correctly, mine has a crescent moon above the curly-cue as opposed to 
the three dots above the curly cue.

Laing

On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 9:45:44 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

> Something that I have noticed is that My Bombadil has a different fork 
> crown than many. Most seem to have the curly-cue on the crown but mine has 
> crescent moon, like the Clementine:
>
> [image: Curly-Cue.JPG]  
>
> [image: bomb2 (2).jpg]  [image: Capture (3).PNG]
>
> Laing
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 10:16:08 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
> It seems the Bombadil and Hunqapillar frames are beloved. They're stout, 
> beautiful, and sometimes have intricate additional tubes and lugs. While 
> I've done a lot of reading about Rivendell I was a bit unclear on the 
> origins and intended uses of these frames. 
>
> I wanted to start a thread where we could share and dump info about these 
> bikes along with pictures of builds. 
>
> Joe and Jim were helpful in laying out a bit of background in another 
> thread 
> <https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/mkxv02ciCM4/m/KqWZOIMQAwAJ>, 
> there's 
> some great info there. 
>
> The original Hunqapillar catalog is up here: 
> http://notfine.com/rivendell/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Hunqapillar.pdf
>
> The first mention I can find of the Bombadil is in RR 41, sometime in 
> 2009. Excerpted pages attached. As a few members might recall I am very 
> into raw frames with brass spilling out of the lugs! I know that many 
> Bombadil owners have had their frames repainted like Jason Fuller, whose 
> absolute stunner shows up here from time to time. By the way, the picture 
> below is one of my very favorite Rivendell images. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

[lconley]

After reading that, I may have to put my Brooks B-72 with the Breezer Seat 
Sandwich on the Bombadil. Just sitting on the shelf now, used to be on my 
fatbike. Mine is a later version (bought new less than 10 years ago) with a 
black frame. Makes me want to get the frame plated.

Laing

On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 7:29:29 AM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

>
> Enjoy, Johns article is up: 
> https://theradavist.com/rivendell-bombadil-review/
> On Sunday, February 5, 2023 at 5:17:24 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>
>> Wow! I'm super impressed. And I bet they are all in the same great 
>> condition as your Bombadil. Thanks for sharing.
>>
>> JohnS
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, February 5, 2023 at 8:04:43 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> 8 - behind the Bombadil - Betty Foy, Hubbuhubbuh, Frank Jones Sr, 
>>> Mystery Bike, Gus Boots Willsen, hanging on the wall Rosco Bubbe V1, 
>>> Rivendell Custom. There are others not in the picture (Clementine, Rosco 
>>> Bubbe Medium Mountain Mixte, Roscoe Baby, Keven's Custom Mixte). The 
>>> Hubbuhubbuh has been sold since the picture was taken.
>>>
>>> Also in the picture - 2 1973 Schwinn Paramount P-15s, 2 Flying Pigeons, 
>>> 2 Gitane Tour de Frances, Pashley Guv'nor, Crust Scapegoat,  Kent Cavalier 
>>> (recumbent 3 wheeler).
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 4, 2023 at 1:19:46 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>>> Wait a minute there Laing! How many Riv's are in that picture???
>>>
>>> Drill press, one of my favorite tools :)
>>>
>>> JohnS
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

[lconley]

8 - behind the Bombadil - Betty Foy, Hubbuhubbuh, Frank Jones Sr, Mystery 
Bike, Gus Boots Willsen, hanging on the wall Rosco Bubbe V1, Rivendell 
Custom. There are others not in the picture (Clementine, Rosco Bubbe Medium 
Mountain Mixte, Roscoe Baby, Keven's Custom Mixte). The Hubbuhubbuh has 
been sold since the picture was taken.

Also in the picture - 2 1973 Schwinn Paramount P-15s, 2 Flying Pigeons, 2 
Gitane Tour de Frances, Pashley Guv'nor, Crust Scapegoat,  Kent Cavalier 
(recumbent 3 wheeler).

Laing

On Saturday, February 4, 2023 at 1:19:46 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
Wait a minute there Laing! How many Riv's are in that picture???

Drill press, one of my favorite tools :)

JohnS

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[RBW] Re: Roaduno catnip

[lconley]

I want one with Bullmoose bars and cantilevers, in purple of course. Need 
is a different matter...

Laing

On Friday, February 3, 2023 at 11:03:07 AM UTC-5 Doug H. wrote:

> John,
> There is one on the linked blog below. You'll need to scroll a bit to find 
> the photo. Note that the fork is mismatched. 
> Blog 
> 
> Doug
> On Friday, February 3, 2023 at 10:50:53 AM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
>
>> Does any one have a link to a picture of a fully built Roaduno? I was 
>> looking for one the other day and the closest I could find was the pics of 
>> the three frames without paint. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>> JohnS
>>
>> On Friday, February 3, 2023 at 9:34:41 AM UTC-5 mark e wrote:
>>
>>> I am excited to see the Uno in purple. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 6:13:09 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:
>>>
 From Will's email update today:
 September: Roaduno complete and frames (lime-olive, purple and dark 
 gold).

 That's good news!

 Roaduno dreaming,

 Edwin

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[lconley]

My 1st helmet was a yellow Skid Lid to match my Yellow Paramount.

[image: Skid Lid.JPG]

Laing

On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 10:56:16 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> George,
>
> I, too, remember well those days. I use to own one of those "leather hair 
> nets". Then I graduated to a first issue Bell helmet. I wore and short wool 
> cycling shorts with a natural chamois insert.  Still love my wool jerseys, 
> arm and leg warmers, especially here in the Pacific Northwest. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 8:55:43 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>
>> True.  I remember those days.  The most you see in one or two of those 
>> photos are riders wearing "leather hair nets," except for one who looks 
>> like he has a mountaineering helmet.  Another thing I notice is much 
>> shorter cycling shorts, probably all wool with a natural chamois crotch.
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 10:31:48 AM UTC-6 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>
>>> Those pictures were taken before helmets were commonly available. During 
>>> Bikecentennial helmets were rare. Steve
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 4:20 PM lconley  wrote:
>>>
>>>> One thing I notice in those photos is that no one was wearing a helmet.
>>>>
>>>> Laing
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 10:49:25 AM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod 
>>>>> to current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a 
>>>>> result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced 
>>>>> his timeline and moved his prime days to current day. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Today's Radavist 
>>>>> <https://theradavist.com/conversations-with-tom-ritchey-part-two-the-influence-of-jobst-brandt/>
>>>>>  article 
>>>>> really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group who 
>>>>> likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s). 
>>>>>
>>>>> What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a 
>>>>> lot of similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for 
>>>>> performance and reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?  
>>>>>
>>>>> Take it away if you wish, 
>>>>> Andrew
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/085f1c7e-704b-4295-aac8-c57596035b15n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/085f1c7e-704b-4295-aac8-c57596035b15n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Steven Sweedler
>>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Lugged

[lconley]

What about purple Roadunos in September?

Laing

On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 5:13:11 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> What you say?? I say! The Riv email newsletter says there's something 
> called Susie Lugged in dark gold coming June 2023. Well ok! 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>

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[RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[lconley]

I think fillet brazing allowed him complete freedom of frame geometry and 
tube sizing, without compromising strength (vs. lugs). I needed somewhat 
different geometry and tube sizing on my custom, due to my weight and 
lng torso, and that resulted in a fillet brazed bottom bracket as there 
were no readily available BB lug. From what I think I know, fillet brazing 
is stronger than TIG, as it spreads the stress over a greater area. I think 
I also read once that fillet brazing is sometime used over top of TIG.

Laing

On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:36:58 PM UTC-5 Philip Williamson wrote:

> I think he'd ride a very similar bike today to the ones he rode for 50 
> years. 
>
>- Steel. He wasn't swayed by aluminum, titanium, or carbon, the first 
>time around, so nu-Jobst wouldn't choose them either. Steel is still 
> tough, 
>reliable, and cheap. 
>- Fillet brazed? I imagine this was for aesthetics, but I'd need to 
>dive into The Jobst Hole to find out. 
>- Rim brakes, not discs. Single pivot sidepulls (??) indicate no 
>worries about stopping with a simple, light, rim brake. 
>- Supple tires, but still narrow. I would love to see Jobst and Jan 
>debate the testing protocol.
>- Downtube shifters. Simple, light, easy cabling, and there for the 
>two times a day he'd shift. 
>- Yellow. 
>
> Philip 
> rec.bicycles.tech
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:59:48 PM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Laing, I think you made a lot of solid arguments. Custom steel still 
>> feels like the way he'd go, and probably not so dissimilar to his no-frills 
>> road bikes of yore. I'm certainly grateful for his impact on the bicycle, 
>> riders, and builders of today, and for the journalists keeping his name 
>> alive!
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 3:16:07 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> If he were still around, I think he would probably still have the same 
>>> setup as the 2008 photo, steel, rim brakes, clipless pedals. 
>>> But that is not the question that seems to have been posed. As I 
>>> understand the question, it is if his prime days were now, what would he be 
>>> riding - basically not a silent generation member, but a later millennial 
>>> or early gen-Xer, but still a mechanical engineer, still concerned with 
>>> reliability, and dare I say it, under-biking. So maybe he still ends up on 
>>> a metal, rimmed braked bike. I think it may be easier to eliminate some 
>>> things, I don't see him with electronic shifting, that just adds more 
>>> possible unrepairable-on-the-road failure points. I want to say no disc 
>>> either - as it adds stress to the fork and reduces the reliability of the 
>>> front end of the bike. I kind of envision him on a stripped down 80th 
>>> anniversary Rene-Herse or Rivendell Rodeo, or possibly some sort of 
>>> titanium frame.
>>>
>>> I am a mechanical engineer also, but a boomer.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:42:06 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim 
>>>> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his 
>>>> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech 
>>>> that 
>>>> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a 
>>>> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily on 
>>>> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub 
>>>> would be a yay or nay. As I'm typing this, I'm reminded of Ritchey's 
>>>> comment on his use of his shifters, or lack-there-of, so I'm leaning 
>>>> towards him reverting to shorter free-hub bodies. Hell, maybe he'd have 
>>>> beat Rivendell to the modern-day 7 speed rear hub! Or perhaps, the Rene 
>>>> Herse rear mech would tickle his fancy. Tough call. He'd certainly ride 
>>>> whatever it is to the ground though. 
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 11:51:37 AM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Andrew,
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A 
>>>>> few things stood out to me:
>>>>>
>>>>> - they were/are all *extremely *fit.
>>>>> - fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
>>>>> - what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
>>>>> - the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is d

[RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[lconley]

If he were still around, I think he would probably still have the same 
setup as the 2008 photo, steel, rim brakes, clipless pedals. 
But that is not the question that seems to have been posed. As I understand 
the question, it is if his prime days were now, what would he be riding - 
basically not a silent generation member, but a later millennial or early 
gen-Xer, but still a mechanical engineer, still concerned with reliability, 
and dare I say it, under-biking. So maybe he still ends up on a metal, 
rimmed braked bike. I think it may be easier to eliminate some things, I 
don't see him with electronic shifting, that just adds more possible 
unrepairable-on-the-road failure points. I want to say no disc either - as 
it adds stress to the fork and reduces the reliability of the front end of 
the bike. I kind of envision him on a stripped down 80th anniversary 
Rene-Herse or Rivendell Rodeo, or possibly some sort of titanium frame.

I am a mechanical engineer also, but a boomer.

Laing

On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 1:42:06 PM UTC-5 andyree...@gmail.com wrote:

> I think I'd agree that Jobst would remain an advocate for the rim 
> brake...PROBABLY. But just to play devil's advocate, if Jobst was in his 
> prime today, he wouldn't have been brought up with the old-school tech that 
> we're familiar with him using, but I suppose being a *bit* of a 
> retrogrouch could still be in his cards. To me, it would depend heavily on 
> his opinion towards modern wheel design and if the 11 (or 12) speed hub 
> would be a yay or nay. As I'm typing this, I'm reminded of Ritchey's 
> comment on his use of his shifters, or lack-there-of, so I'm leaning 
> towards him reverting to shorter free-hub bodies. Hell, maybe he'd have 
> beat Rivendell to the modern-day 7 speed rear hub! Or perhaps, the Rene 
> Herse rear mech would tickle his fancy. Tough call. He'd certainly ride 
> whatever it is to the ground though. 
>
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 11:51:37 AM UTC-6 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A few 
>> things stood out to me:
>>
>> - they were/are all *extremely *fit.
>> - fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
>> - what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
>> - the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is doing all the work ;)
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>> (who's beloved stoker [Lori] continues to do all the work)
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod to 
>>> current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a 
>>> result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced 
>>> his timeline and moved his prime days to current day. 
>>>
>>> Today's Radavist 
>>> 
>>>  article 
>>> really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group who 
>>> likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s). 
>>>
>>> What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a lot 
>>> of similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for 
>>> performance and reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?  
>>>
>>> Take it away if you wish, 
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>

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