Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-05-01 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 11:50 PM, happyriding  wrote:

> I'm confused again.  I was thinking that wide chainstays require high
> Q cranks.  But if the drop out width is standard, is it just the way
> the chain stay splays out near the BB that determines Q?  Can a frame
> builder make a bike with low Q yet still accept 50mm tires?


My 65 mm (actual, measured with a digital caliper)-tire'd Monocog has a Q of
150. I could get 70 mm tire in that frame. Forget what cranks, but they take
that early design splined bb.



> If so,
> why does Rivendell make all their bikes with high Q?
>

My two customs have Qs of 130; the Sam Hill has a 160 with a modern
splay-armed triple with at least 1 cm of clearance between arms and stays.


-- 
Patrick Moore
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-05-01 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 11:23 AM, happyriding  wrote:

>
> Also, has anyone had a problem adjusting to the huge Q of a Rivendell
> bike?  That is something I hadn't really considered.
>
>
"Huge Q"? The Qs on my two remaining custom Rivs (130 and 126 spaced,
respectively ) are both 130 mm.

That on my Sugino XD'd tripled Sam Hill is 160.

Explain "huge".



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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-05-01 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 11:23 AM, happyriding  wrote:

>
>
> How is Q a property of the crank?  Wouldn't the bottom bracket that is
> necessary to allow the crank to clear the chain stays determine the
> Q?   Or do some cranks only fit on certain narrower bottom brackets?
>

I'm not quite clear on what, exactly, you are asking, but if you mean to
ask, "How does the crank determine Q more than the bb spindle length," the
answer is, "Dunno, but it certainly, most certainly do." I had Phil make me
a massively long 145 mm spindled bb assembly so that I could use a beloved
175 mm Cyclotourist crankset on a wide-stayed mountain bike. Q was 160.
That's a 145 mm spindle, folks.

OTOH, the 108 or 113 spindle and Sugino XD or whatever the hell it is stock
triple on the newly acquired Sam Hill triple has a Q of about 160; note
that: 145, 113, 160.

Difference? Not the spindles, obviously, but the "flare" of the arms. The
Cyclotourists don't flare at all; the XDs flare like any modern crank.

So: today's lesson: it's the crank arm flare, folks, that largely determines
Q, not the spindle length.

>
> Also, has anyone had a problem adjusting to the huge Q of a Rivendell
> bike?  That is something I hadn't really considered.
>
> --
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-05-01 Thread Garth

Happyriding,

 You can build a frame to take wider tires and have a smaller Q than
say a Bombadil, but it would likely be a full custom frame designed
with modifications to the stays. No one has made a copy of the
Stumpjumper design, but even they couldn't handle much less than 147mm
wide crank.. I doubt even a custom wide tire bike is going to take a
narrow crank like the Grand Cru without some major design
compromises.

The Riv design is not the only way to design the BB/stays, but if
you're going to make bikes you gotta decide one something, and the Riv
one works well for their intended parts. I think if we all had a frame
at home to play with made of play dough, you'd quickly realize
designing frames isn't as easy as it looks. Compromise probably rules.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/30/10 10:50 PM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

> I'm confused again.  I was thinking that wide chainstays require high
> Q cranks.  But if the drop out width is standard, is it just the way
> the chain stay splays out near the BB that determines Q?  Can a frame
> builder make a bike with low Q yet still accept 50mm tires?  If so,
> why does Rivendell make all their bikes with high Q?

The Q factor or tread is the measurement between crank arms when mounted -

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_q.html#qfactor

(and do follow the link through to the old GP B'stone article)

I really don't think it's accurate to say that Rivendell bicycles have high
Q. 

When you begin designing bikes to clear wide tires, you have to make the
tread/Q wider.  There's no way around that (other than using ovalized
chainstays or crimping them). The Bombadil and Hunqapillare are designed to
handle larger tires.

Since RBW bicycles are built with steel chainstays, they would require less
room for cranks to clear, and could use narrower Q cranks thank ones made
with aluminum, for example.

Most "modern" mtbs I've ridden have way wider tread/Q than any Rivendell
I've ridden.

- Jim
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread happyriding
I'm confused again.  I was thinking that wide chainstays require high
Q cranks.  But if the drop out width is standard, is it just the way
the chain stay splays out near the BB that determines Q?  Can a frame
builder make a bike with low Q yet still accept 50mm tires?  If so,
why does Rivendell make all their bikes with high Q?

Thanks.

On Apr 30, 11:01 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 4/30/10 8:08 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > I was thinking that as the chainstays got wider, the cassette moved
> > outboard more, but that isn't true is it?  The cassette must be in the
> > same place no matter how wide the chainstays are?  So that meas every
> > crank has an ideal distance from the BB shell that perfectly lines up
> > its chain rings with the cassette?  So for bikes with wide chain
> > stays, you need a crank where the crank arms are further away from the
> > rings so that the crank arms clear the chainstays, but the rings still
> > line up with the cassette?
>
> Yep. Pretty much.
>
> The idea is to design a bike which allows you to place the chainrings and
> rear sprockets in similar relationship to the centerline of the bicycle.
>
> AASHTA -http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
>
> It's not so much that the chainstays were widened - the rear spacing doesn't
> really change as it's specific to the gearing.
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
>
> A few things have led to wider crank arm "splay" - shorter chainstays, which
> move the wider part of the rear triangle closer to the bottom bracket;
> larger diamter (i.e aluminum) and/or square tubing found on mtb designs;
> suspension designs which favor oversized or square tubing.
>
> - J
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> "You must be the change you want to see in the world."
>     Mahatma Gandhi
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/30/10 8:08 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I was thinking that as the chainstays got wider, the cassette moved
> outboard more, but that isn't true is it?  The cassette must be in the
> same place no matter how wide the chainstays are?  So that meas every
> crank has an ideal distance from the BB shell that perfectly lines up
> its chain rings with the cassette?  So for bikes with wide chain
> stays, you need a crank where the crank arms are further away from the
> rings so that the crank arms clear the chainstays, but the rings still
> line up with the cassette?

Yep. Pretty much. 

The idea is to design a bike which allows you to place the chainrings and
rear sprockets in similar relationship to the centerline of the bicycle.

AASHTA - 
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

It's not so much that the chainstays were widened - the rear spacing doesn't
really change as it's specific to the gearing.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

A few things have led to wider crank arm "splay" - shorter chainstays, which
move the wider part of the rear triangle closer to the bottom bracket;
larger diamter (i.e aluminum) and/or square tubing found on mtb designs;
suspension designs which favor oversized or square tubing.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes



"You must be the change you want to see in the world."
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread JoelMatthews
> I've always been fond of the original Stumpjumpers chainstay 
> design.http://www.trek4fun.com/images/my_bikes/1983_stumpjumper_sport/1983_s...
> No chainring rub issues there.

Thanks for the link.  Been a long time since I saw one of those.  I
wonder if there was a functional issue that stopped others from
copying or if design stayed away for aesthetic or financial reasons.

On Apr 30, 7:07 am, Garth  wrote:
> It really depends on the terrain one rides weather a HSG would work
> for an individual. A 24/44/48 and a 13-32 7sp FW or even a 12-32 8sp
> cassette is very versatile.  I believe Robert Beckman still prefers
> this drivetrain on his Sakkit Touring bikes. . .  which are designed
> for on and off road.
>
> Bombadil design aside . a frame could be/has been made to take big
> tires and still use HSG and lower Q cranks, at least in 26" size.
> I've always been fond of the original Stumpjumpers chainstay 
> design.http://www.trek4fun.com/images/my_bikes/1983_stumpjumper_sport/1983_s...
> No chainring rub issues there.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread Garth

It really depends on the terrain one rides weather a HSG would work
for an individual. A 24/44/48 and a 13-32 7sp FW or even a 12-32 8sp
cassette is very versatile.  I believe Robert Beckman still prefers
this drivetrain on his Sakkit Touring bikes. . .  which are designed
for on and off road.

Bombadil design aside . a frame could be/has been made to take big
tires and still use HSG and lower Q cranks, at least in 26" size.
I've always been fond of the original Stumpjumpers chainstay design.
http://www.trek4fun.com/images/my_bikes/1983_stumpjumper_sport/1983_stumpjumper_sport_3.jpg
No chainring rub issues there.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-30 Thread happyriding
Hi,

Thanks for responding.

I was thinking that as the chainstays got wider, the cassette moved
outboard more, but that isn't true is it?  The cassette must be in the
same place no matter how wide the chainstays are?  So that meas every
crank has an ideal distance from the BB shell that perfectly lines up
its chain rings with the cassette?  So for bikes with wide chain
stays, you need a crank where the crank arms are further away from the
rings so that the crank arms clear the chainstays, but the rings still
line up with the cassette?

Thanks.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2010-04-29 at 14:31 -0700, Garth wrote:

> I still like half-step plus granny 7 speed drivetrains. Too bad I
> can't use it on the Bombadil though.

Given the intended purpose of the Bombadil, would a HSG make any
functional sense?



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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread Garth
A simple reason triple are great for touring is redundancy in gears.
Use Mike Sherman's gear chart, and you'll get a good idea what a high
range double will be like shifting.
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift

As stated ,low Q cranks will be a problem on many touring bikes. Use a
longer axle and your chainline will be poor. It's best to pick a crank
for your frame that is as close to the original intent as possible.
Try fitting a Grand Cru crank on a Bomabadil .. you won't! .
not without a unusable chainline.

I still like half-step plus granny 7 speed drivetrains. Too bad I
can't use it on the Bombadil though.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread William
The length of spindle you use should be driven entirely by chain
line.  Velo Orange says that the Gran Cru will be 'about 139mm' in Q-
factor.  That means that when you pick the right spindle length for
chainline, the Q-factor will be about 139mm.  They also throw in that
is 'the narrowest ever'.  So, anybody who wants to run that crankset
should make sure their frameset is among the narrowest ever, so they
can choose the right spindle for chainline.  If you put the narrowest
ever crankset on a wide chainstay frame, like the Bombadil, your
crankarms will hit the chainstays.  You'll probably have to use a
spindle that is 8mm longer on both ends to clear the stays.  Doing
that will foul up your chainline, probably badly.  You might not even
be able to use the largest cog or two in the small ring.  You are
correct to point out that if people choose to use whatever spindle
with whatever crankset, that the Q-factor is not an intrinsic property
of the crankset at all.  It is a property of the combination of
spindle and crankset.  When crank manufacturers or retailers state Q-
factor, they are assuming you are going to use the right spindle
length for chainline, which is what you should do if you can.

On Apr 29, 10:23 am, happyriding  wrote:
> On Apr 22, 11:25 am, William  wrote:
>
> > Another thing to keep in mind if you have your eye on that crank.  Pay
> > very close attention to how the Q-factor of the crankset goes with the
> > chainstay width of the frame you are setting up.  
>
> How is Q a property of the crank?  Wouldn't the bottom bracket that is
> necessary to allow the crank to clear the chain stays determine the
> Q?   Or do some cranks only fit on certain narrower bottom brackets?
>
> Also, has anyone had a problem adjusting to the huge Q of a Rivendell
> bike?  That is something I hadn't really considered.
>
> > I don't know what
> > bike you are building, but I will report that my 155mm Q-factor
> > Ritchey (113mm spindle) barely fit on a Bombadil.  There is no hope
> > that a 130-something crankset would fit without a massively long
> > spindle, which would change it into a 155mm Q-factor crankset and
> > would foul up your chainline and front shifting.  That 46/30 Gran Cru
> > would be sweet on an old school Rando/Brevet bike (basically a road
> > bike).  No chance would that crankset work on a Bomba/Hunqa.  Even a
> > Hillborne/Hilsen would be questionable. Roadeo should work.
>
> Ok, thanks.  Good to know.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread JoelMatthews
> How is Q a property of the crank?  Wouldn't the bottom bracket that is
> necessary to allow the crank to clear the chain stays determine the
> Q?   Or do some cranks only fit on certain narrower bottom brackets?

It is a function of both BB length and Crank design.

Many modern curving crank designs fit further out on the BB than say,
a TA Cyclotourist or the White Industries VBC.

On Apr 29, 12:23 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> On Apr 22, 11:25 am, William  wrote:
>
> > Another thing to keep in mind if you have your eye on that crank.  Pay
> > very close attention to how the Q-factor of the crankset goes with the
> > chainstay width of the frame you are setting up.  
>
> How is Q a property of the crank?  Wouldn't the bottom bracket that is
> necessary to allow the crank to clear the chain stays determine the
> Q?   Or do some cranks only fit on certain narrower bottom brackets?
>
> Also, has anyone had a problem adjusting to the huge Q of a Rivendell
> bike?  That is something I hadn't really considered.
>
> > I don't know what
> > bike you are building, but I will report that my 155mm Q-factor
> > Ritchey (113mm spindle) barely fit on a Bombadil.  There is no hope
> > that a 130-something crankset would fit without a massively long
> > spindle, which would change it into a 155mm Q-factor crankset and
> > would foul up your chainline and front shifting.  That 46/30 Gran Cru
> > would be sweet on an old school Rando/Brevet bike (basically a road
> > bike).  No chance would that crankset work on a Bomba/Hunqa.  Even a
> > Hillborne/Hilsen would be questionable. Roadeo should work.
>
> Ok, thanks.  Good to know.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread MichaelH
Did you lower the front derailleur when you made the change?  The ring
shape between a 50 and a 46 isn't that much different but it is
important to drop the front derailleur down as close as possible
without hitting the chainstay.

Michael

On Apr 22, 9:13 pm, amoll68  wrote:
> I'm not sure why, exactly, but it might have something to do with the
> FSA designed for a 50-34, and I *think* the radius of the 46-30 is
> just different enough to cause problems for me. I had to trim the
> derailleur after nearly every shift, and in my favorite gear I
> couldn't quite trim it just right - had a very slight rub. With the
> wider cage, I can shift 4 cogs before I need to trim, and I can always
> trim away any rubbing. Worked for me . . .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-29 Thread happyriding
On Apr 22, 11:25 am, William  wrote:
> Another thing to keep in mind if you have your eye on that crank.  Pay
> very close attention to how the Q-factor of the crankset goes with the
> chainstay width of the frame you are setting up.  
>

How is Q a property of the crank?  Wouldn't the bottom bracket that is
necessary to allow the crank to clear the chain stays determine the
Q?   Or do some cranks only fit on certain narrower bottom brackets?

Also, has anyone had a problem adjusting to the huge Q of a Rivendell
bike?  That is something I hadn't really considered.

> I don't know what
> bike you are building, but I will report that my 155mm Q-factor
> Ritchey (113mm spindle) barely fit on a Bombadil.  There is no hope
> that a 130-something crankset would fit without a massively long
> spindle, which would change it into a 155mm Q-factor crankset and
> would foul up your chainline and front shifting.  That 46/30 Gran Cru
> would be sweet on an old school Rando/Brevet bike (basically a road
> bike).  No chance would that crankset work on a Bomba/Hunqa.  Even a
> Hillborne/Hilsen would be questionable. Roadeo should work.
>

Ok, thanks.  Good to know.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-22 Thread amoll68
I'm not sure why, exactly, but it might have something to do with the
FSA designed for a 50-34, and I *think* the radius of the 46-30 is
just different enough to cause problems for me. I had to trim the
derailleur after nearly every shift, and in my favorite gear I
couldn't quite trim it just right - had a very slight rub. With the
wider cage, I can shift 4 cogs before I need to trim, and I can always
trim away any rubbing. Worked for me . . .

R/ Alex


> Hi Alex,
>
> So why does a 9 speed, 12-36 cassette need a wider front derailleur
> cage than, say, a 10 speed 13-29?  I would think the overall width of
> the cassette would be pretty similar, and therefore you would get the
> same chain angles.
>
> Thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-22 Thread William
Another thing to keep in mind if you have your eye on that crank.  Pay
very close attention to how the Q-factor of the crankset goes with the
chainstay width of the frame you are setting up.  I don't know what
bike you are building, but I will report that my 155mm Q-factor
Ritchey (113mm spindle) barely fit on a Bombadil.  There is no hope
that a 130-something crankset would fit without a massively long
spindle, which would change it into a 155mm Q-factor crankset and
would foul up your chainline and front shifting.  That 46/30 Gran Cru
would be sweet on an old school Rando/Brevet bike (basically a road
bike).  No chance would that crankset work on a Bomba/Hunqa.  Even a
Hillborne/Hilsen would be questionable. Roadeo should work.

On Apr 21, 9:33 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> On Apr 21, 5:41 pm, William  wrote:
>
> > ...and the 46/30 is predicted to be $175, not $125.  Still a bargain
>
> Whoops.  That's the page I was looking at.  Somehow I read $125 (..and
> I did that several times!).
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-22 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 22:17 -0700, doug peterson wrote:

> Steve's got a good idea with the 20 lbs of rocks.  Everyone is
> surprised at how their high performance road bike changes character
> when it's required to carry its own weight in payload.  Then think
> about doubling that.  That's touring.

20 lb of gear is also touring -- and believe me, it's a lot more fun
hauling 20 lb of gear up a mountain than 40 lb!



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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread doug peterson
happyriding:

I've never tried a wide range double for touring but that won't stop
me from giving an opinion.  Even with the 12-36 9 speed (probably an
excellent choice; I use a 13-32 8 speed & another lower can't hurt), I
would want a smaller ring than 30 for touring.  There are too many
unknowns such as gradient, length of climb, weather, wind, road
surface, how long you're riding that day (some days get longer than
planned) when touring to say "I'll never need a gear lower than xx".
My granny is 24 x 32 and that's barely walking speed but it gets used
on occasion.

The other issue is front shifting.  10-12 teeth differences shift
well, don't need a lot of attention, and don't often don't require
another shift at the back.  That's why you find touring triples with
24-36-48, 24-34-44, etc. ring combos.  Yes, you get lots of
duplicates.  No, you won't have "27 speeds".  But you can have a 20"
low & a 100" high with reliable shifting & not a lot of double
shifts.  BTW, you will need the 20" low a lot more than the 100" high
when carrying a load.

Steve's got a good idea with the 20 lbs of rocks.  Everyone is
surprised at how their high performance road bike changes character
when it's required to carry its own weight in payload.  Then think
about doubling that.  That's touring.

dougP

On Apr 21, 4:11 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> Good point about constantly needing the in between gears.  The problem
> is I don't know where that is for a touring bike.   I only have a road
> bike, which is set up with a 53x39 and 13-29, which works well for me
> in all types of terrain.
>
> I was thinking about the possibility of coupling the pending Velo
> Orange Gran Cru crank ($125), which is a 46x30 double, with a
> Rivendell/Shimano 12-36 9 speed cassette.  That would result in a
> lower top end than a 53x13 (110.1 v. 103.5).
>
> Any comments on whether that is practical?  Are doubles just not used
> for touring bikes?
>
> Thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding
On Apr 21, 5:41 pm, William  wrote:
> ...and the 46/30 is predicted to be $175, not $125.  Still a bargain
>

Whoops.  That's the page I was looking at.  Somehow I read $125 (..and
I did that several times!).

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding
On Apr 21, 9:14 pm, amoll68  wrote:
>
> WRT the 46-30 and the 12-36 rear: it might work okay, might even work
> well. I have a feeling the trick may be finding the right front
> derailleur, and I'm thinking something from the 70's or 80's with a
> wide cage. I first tried a modern FSA compact for my Hilsen setup, and
> never could get it dialed in right (rubbing problems, and some
> shifting problems.) The old Simplex SLJ doesn't appear to have the
> correct radius for the 46T ring, but it works great!
>
> Trial and error can be fun - especially when you create that winning
> combo, but it can also be frustrating and expensive. Good luck!
>
> Alex
>

Hi Alex,

So why does a 9 speed, 12-36 cassette need a wider front derailleur
cage than, say, a 10 speed 13-29?  I would think the overall width of
the cassette would be pretty similar, and therefore you would get the
same chain angles.

Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread amoll68
Hap,

Loaded touring bike: you're probably gonna want that triple AND a big
cassette in the rear - unless you don't mind resting or walking (Kent
Petersen's "24 inch gear") when you totally bonk on that big climb.

On my AHH country bike/sport tourer with a light load: I LOVE my TA
46-30, Simplex SLJ up front, 12-27 Ultergra/Dura Ace rear. I live and
ride in the Cascade Foothills, and can think of only one occasion
where I've used the lowest gear. I occasionally use my second lowest
gear, but spend most of my time in the big ring on the rolling hills.
It's by far my favorite gearing setup, and I've tried (and have) a lot
of different setups. However, I don't think this would be ideal for a
long tour with a heavy load.

WRT the 46-30 and the 12-36 rear: it might work okay, might even work
well. I have a feeling the trick may be finding the right front
derailleur, and I'm thinking something from the 70's or 80's with a
wide cage. I first tried a modern FSA compact for my Hilsen setup, and
never could get it dialed in right (rubbing problems, and some
shifting problems.) The old Simplex SLJ doesn't appear to have the
correct radius for the 46T ring, but it works great!

Trial and error can be fun - especially when you create that winning
combo, but it can also be frustrating and expensive. Good luck!

Alex

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 18:11 -0600, rswat...@me.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 21, 2010, at 12:41, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> > On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 07:26 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> >> To answer two questions at once.  Indexed shifting a triple is more
> >> trouble than its worth.   It will need more adjustments and offer  
> >> less
> >> trim finesse.  So, skip the indexing and the ramped rings.
> >
> > I certainly agree with skipping the indexing for front shifting, but  
> > if
> > you have ramped and pinned chain rings, they don't hurt in any way.
> 
> They might. I once got a pinned large ring by mistake and whenever I  
> was in the small ring, the pins on the big ring would snag the chain,  
> making lots of irritating noises. I foolishly tried to drill the pins  
> out, but just ended up destroying the ring.

I have quite a few bikes with bar end shifting and ramped and pinned
chain rings, and in my experience, they shift better than unramped,
unpinned chain rings.  And I've never experienced pins snagging chains
or making annoying noises.

As always, YMMV...



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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread rswatson





On Apr 21, 2010, at 12:41, Steve Palincsar  wrote:


On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 07:26 -0700, MichaelH wrote:

To answer two questions at once.  Indexed shifting a triple is more
trouble than its worth.   It will need more adjustments and offer  
less

trim finesse.  So, skip the indexing and the ramped rings.


I certainly agree with skipping the indexing for front shifting, but  
if

you have ramped and pinned chain rings, they don't hurt in any way.


They might. I once got a pinned large ring by mistake and whenever I  
was in the small ring, the pins on the big ring would snag the chain,  
making lots of irritating noises. I foolishly tried to drill the pins  
out, but just ended up destroying the ring.


Ryan

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread William
...and the 46/30 is predicted to be $175, not $125.  Still a bargain

http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2010/02/grand-cru-crank.html



On Apr 21, 4:14 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> On Apr 21, 5:11 pm, happyriding  wrote:
>
> > Good point about constantly needing the in between gears.  The problem
> > is I don't know where that is for a touring bike.   I only have a road
> > bike, which is set up with a 53x39 and 13-29, which works well for me
> > in all types of terrain.
>
> > I was thinking about the possibility of coupling the pending Velo
> > Orange Gran Cru crank ($125), which is a 46x30 double
>
> I forgot to mention, the Gran Cru has matching ramps and pins.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 16:11 -0700, happyriding wrote:
> Good point about constantly needing the in between gears.  The problem
> is I don't know where that is for a touring bike.   I only have a road
> bike, which is set up with a 53x39 and 13-29, which works well for me
> in all types of terrain.

So try loading up your road bike with 20 lb of rocks in a bag and see
how that affects your overall gearing.  I'd guess you'll need a gear
probably 2 shifts lower for any given incline over what you'd need
unloaded.  



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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding

On Apr 21, 5:11 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> Good point about constantly needing the in between gears.  The problem
> is I don't know where that is for a touring bike.   I only have a road
> bike, which is set up with a 53x39 and 13-29, which works well for me
> in all types of terrain.
>
> I was thinking about the possibility of coupling the pending Velo
> Orange Gran Cru crank ($125), which is a 46x30 double
>

I forgot to mention, the Gran Cru has matching ramps and pins.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding
Good point about constantly needing the in between gears.  The problem
is I don't know where that is for a touring bike.   I only have a road
bike, which is set up with a 53x39 and 13-29, which works well for me
in all types of terrain.

I was thinking about the possibility of coupling the pending Velo
Orange Gran Cru crank ($125), which is a 46x30 double, with a
Rivendell/Shimano 12-36 9 speed cassette.  That would result in a
lower top end than a 53x13 (110.1 v. 103.5).

Any comments on whether that is practical?  Are doubles just not used
for touring bikes?

Thanks.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-04-21 at 07:26 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> To answer two questions at once.  Indexed shifting a triple is more
> trouble than its worth.   It will need more adjustments and offer less
> trim finesse.  So, skip the indexing and the ramped rings.

I certainly agree with skipping the indexing for front shifting, but if
you have ramped and pinned chain rings, they don't hurt in any way.



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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread RoadieRyan
+2 on the gear calulator

Sheldon's calculator is a great way to compare the pros and cons of
Triple vs Compact for me it comes down to whether the low gear will
get me up the hills I need to climb in Hilly West Seattle?  I just
switched from a 50/34 11/34 to a 46/36/26  11/32 to get 3 extra low
gears FWIW

Ryan

On Apr 21, 9:32 am, doug peterson  wrote:
> happyriding:
>
> +1 for spending time with Sheldon's calculator.  Great tool.
>
> Make a note of which gears you are actually using.  With 20+
> combinations, most of us only really use a portion of what's there.
> Especially note the highest gear you're comfortable with.  You may
> find out you've got a cog or 2 at the top end you never use with the
> big ring.  With 8-9-10 cogs, a double can be perfectly reasonable.
> The important thing to understand is what you need for your riding,
> and set it up to match.
>
> My touring bike has a triple with wide range gearing, because I never
> know what I'll get myself into.  My knock around town bike has an old
> 7 speed and a couple of orphan rings because it really doesn't
> matter.
>
> dougP
>
> On Apr 21, 8:46 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > on 4/21/10 4:48 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > > I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
> > > to a 46x36x26 triple?
>
> > AASHTA -
> > If you haven't done so, I'd pay a visit to Sheldon's Gear Calculator.
>
> >http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
>
> > You can play all kinds of "what ifs" there.  If you haven't worked with the
> > units of Gain Ratio or Gear-Inches, it's helpful to enter in some known
> > setups for reference first.
>
> > --
> > Jim Edgar
> > cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> > Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> > Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> > "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
> > it."
> >     Mahatma Gandhi
>
> > --
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread doug peterson
happyriding:

+1 for spending time with Sheldon's calculator.  Great tool.

Make a note of which gears you are actually using.  With 20+
combinations, most of us only really use a portion of what's there.
Especially note the highest gear you're comfortable with.  You may
find out you've got a cog or 2 at the top end you never use with the
big ring.  With 8-9-10 cogs, a double can be perfectly reasonable.
The important thing to understand is what you need for your riding,
and set it up to match.

My touring bike has a triple with wide range gearing, because I never
know what I'll get myself into.  My knock around town bike has an old
7 speed and a couple of orphan rings because it really doesn't
matter.

dougP

On Apr 21, 8:46 am, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 4/21/10 4:48 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
> > to a 46x36x26 triple?
>
> AASHTA -
> If you haven't done so, I'd pay a visit to Sheldon's Gear Calculator.
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
>
> You can play all kinds of "what ifs" there.  If you haven't worked with the
> units of Gain Ratio or Gear-Inches, it's helpful to enter in some known
> setups for reference first.
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
> it."
>     Mahatma Gandhi
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread CycloFiend
on 4/21/10 4:48 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
> to a 46x36x26 triple?

AASHTA -
If you haven't done so, I'd pay a visit to Sheldon's Gear Calculator.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

You can play all kinds of "what ifs" there.  If you haven't worked with the
units of Gain Ratio or Gear-Inches, it's helpful to enter in some known
setups for reference first.


-- 
Jim Edgar
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread Patrick in VT
On Apr 21, 10:07 am, happyriding  wrote:

> Whoops.  Make that a 46x30 double.

as long as you have a low enough gear, it will be reasonable.

be aware that if you're looking at a compact with a ring smaller than
a 33, it can get spendy.  but the nice bit about a lower gearing
compacts (46x30; 44x28; etc.) is that you can stay in the big ring for
all but really long or really steep climbs.

you could always just run a 48 or 46x34 110bcd compact with a wide
range cassette to get a low enough gear.  but it kind of depends on
where your sweet spot is and what kind of riding you're doing.  you
might end up shifting a lot between rings with this set up.  gearing
is definitely not one-size-fits-all.

i have bikes set up with a 50x34 (11-25), a 48x34 (11-30) and a 44x28
(13-26).  all very different bikes for different kinds of riding.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread MichaelH
To answer two questions at once.  Indexed shifting a triple is more
trouble than its worth.   It will need more adjustments and offer less
trim finesse.  So, skip the indexing and the ramped rings.  I run
friction shifters and good, but no name LBS silver unpinned
rings( 48/34/26) on a DaVinci triple crank and it shifts fine.  The
only time I ever have a problem is when I have waited too long to drop
into the granny.

About the gearing.  I am considering switching one of bikes
(Rambouillet) from a triple to  a 44/30 double with an 11x28, 9 spd
cassette.  This will give the same top gear as my 48x12 and only one
gear less on the bottom 30x28 instead of 26x27.  One downside I can
see to this is that the 11 will probably wear out pretty quickly.  If
that does happen I think I will move the cassette to a bike with a
triple and lock out the 11.  Also, the jumps - 12-14-16 - are a little
bigger than the 12x27 spacing - 12,13,14,15,17.

The only objection I have to triples is the extra work cleaning them.
I ride a lot of dirt roads and tired of pulling the whole thing apart
(especially the XD with the hidden bolt) to clean the middle ring.

Michael


On Apr 21, 7:48 am, happyriding  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> On Apr 21, 12:43 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>
> > The shimano bar end shifters can switch between friction and indexing
> > in the rear shifter; the front shifter is only friction.
>
> Ah hah.  Thanks.
>
> I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
> to a 46x36x26 triple?
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding
On Apr 21, 5:48 am, happyriding  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> On Apr 21, 12:43 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
>
> > The shimano bar end shifters can switch between friction and indexing
> > in the rear shifter; the front shifter is only friction.
>
> Ah hah.  Thanks.
>
> I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
> to a 46x36x26 triple?
>

Whoops.  Make that a 46x30 double.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2010-04-20 at 22:40 -0700, happyriding wrote:
> Thanks for the replies.  Richard, thanks for the velo orange link.
> I've read Peter White's article before, but I'm going to read it
> again.
> 
> I was under the impression that bar end shifters had two modes: index
> and friction.  If the bar end shifters are in index mode for the front
> derailleur,


Front is friction.  

>  do you need ramps and pins for smooth shifting?

No



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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-21 Thread happyriding
Hi,

On Apr 21, 12:43 am, Jeremy Till  wrote:
> The shimano bar end shifters can switch between friction and indexing
> in the rear shifter; the front shifter is only friction.
>

Ah hah.  Thanks.

I have another question.  Is a 40x30 double a reasonable alternative
to a 46x36x26 triple?

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Jeremy Till
The shimano bar end shifters can switch between friction and indexing
in the rear shifter; the front shifter is only friction.

On Apr 20, 10:40 pm, happyriding  wrote:
> Thanks for the replies.  Richard, thanks for the velo orange link.
> I've read Peter White's article before, but I'm going to read it
> again.
>
> I was under the impression that bar end shifters had two modes: index
> and friction.  If the bar end shifters are in index mode for the front
> derailleur, do you need ramps and pins for smooth shifting?  Or do
> most people with triples run the front derailleur in friction mode?
>
> Thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread happyriding
Thanks for the replies.  Richard, thanks for the velo orange link.
I've read Peter White's article before, but I'm going to read it
again.

I was under the impression that bar end shifters had two modes: index
and friction.  If the bar end shifters are in index mode for the front
derailleur, do you need ramps and pins for smooth shifting?  Or do
most people with triples run the front derailleur in friction mode?

Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
I just re-assembled a bike with STI for someone who had it shipped
(that's a disclaimer so no one thinks I really know anything about the
stuff).  In checking that everything worked, the front shifts 1 ring
for each push of the lever.  The lever must be released and return to
rest before shifting to the next ring.  There seems to be some sort of
ratchet mechanism in there.  So the short answer is yes, STI indexes
on the front.  The bike in question is a few years old Specialized
aluminum racy road bike, triple front & 8 speed rear.

dougP

On Apr 20, 7:46 pm, Shaun Meehan  wrote:
> I think some of the early Shimano brifters had indexed front shifting
> too. Didn't they? RX100...
>
> Shaun Meehan
>
> On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> > MTBs index the front.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Shaun Meehan
I think some of the early Shimano brifters had indexed front shifting
too. Didn't they? RX100...

Shaun Meehan

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:35 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:
> MTBs index the front.

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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread cyclotourist
MTBs index the front.

Strangely, I tried a unpinned chainring, and couldn't get it to shift.  It
was the middle ring of a triple.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 7:29 PM, Horace  wrote:

> I don't think so, since the front is never indexed.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:52 PM, amoll68  wrote:
>
>> Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
>> indexed shifting?
>>
>> I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
>> friction mode.
>>
>> Alex
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Horace
I don't think so, since the front is never indexed.

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 5:52 PM, amoll68  wrote:

> Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
> indexed shifting?
>
> I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
> friction mode.
>
> Alex
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread amoll68
Not 100% sure about this, but didn't ramps/pins come about because of
indexed shifting?

I've got a few bikes with old TA rings (thin), and they shift great in
friction mode.

Alex

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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread doug peterson
My Atlantis came with ramps & pins on the Sugino.  They are good rings
& lasted me over 20k miles but I replaced with generic flat rings
because they were half the price.  The 24 to 36 shift takes a bit more
thought with the flat rings but no big deal.  With friction it's
pretty EZ to over-shift slightly to assure chain pick up.  No real
difference from middle to big.

The ramps & pins don't hurt anything if you're looking at a set-up
that already has them.

dougP

On Apr 20, 12:14 pm, CycloFiend  wrote:
> on 4/20/10 3:06 AM, happyriding at happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
> > silver finish of course).
>
> Just a point that the ramps/pins are a function of the chainrings, not the
> crank.  
>
> > How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?
>
> With friction/manual shifting, little to none.
>
> I'm running a 38/48 on the Hilsen right now with unpinned (pinless?) rings
> on the Sugino , and don't notice a spec o' difference versus the same sized
> ones which were on my Ritchey crankset.
>
> - J
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Mitch Browne
Having just made the transition from my 2007 Salsa Casseroll Triple
featuring stock / full Shimano STI 105 shifting to my Atlantis with
bar end shifters / Campy FD / Deore XT RD / Sugino XD2 triple I can
say I actually like the friction shifting better but find no
appreciable difference in ramps pin etc.

On Apr 20, 7:33 am, Richard  wrote:
> Here's a Sugino crank to consider.
>
> http://www.velo-orange.com/suoldlotr.html
>
> I believe the pins and ramps are not a big deal if the front
> derailleur is friction, not STI or similar.  The following is from
> Peter White's web site, and might also be useful.
>
> http://peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp
>
> On Apr 20, 5:06 am, happyriding  wrote:
>
> > Hi,
>
> > What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
> > silver finish of course).
>
> > How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?
>
> > Thanks.
>
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[RBW] Re: cranks: ramps and pins v. none

2010-04-20 Thread Richard
Here's a Sugino crank to consider.

http://www.velo-orange.com/suoldlotr.html

I believe the pins and ramps are not a big deal if the front
derailleur is friction, not STI or similar.  The following is from
Peter White's web site, and might also be useful.

http://peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp

On Apr 20, 5:06 am, happyriding  wrote:
> Hi,
>
> What's an alternative to the Sugino XD2 that has ramps and pins (all
> silver finish of course).
>
> How big a difference is there with no ramps and pins?
>
> Thanks.
>
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