Hello again, MA!
My first batch was 32 oz brewed for one hour. I made a batch today- 32
oz brewed for 2 hours with no heat. During that period I had to clean
the rods three times because of the *fuzz*. Is this a normal thing?
My end result is quite clear. I hope to find a laser pen tomorrow,
Hi Raine,
Yes that is normal. I clean my rods more often than that. they bulid up fuzz
faster as the concentration goes up. Agter several hours you cant clean them
fast enough nad then I stop the precess, it makse me very strang CS that is
totally clear. and lasts a long time in the cupboard,
Thank so much, V. It's good to know that others have this fuzz issue.
How long do you brew?
-Raine
V wrote:
Hi Raine,
Yes that is normal. I clean my rods more often than that. they bulid up fuzz
faster as the concentration goes up. Agter several hours you cant clean them
fast enough nad
Hi Raine,
Well I havent timed it much, but I image somewhere between 2 to 4 hours
sometimes longer. I just go by how often I have to clean and occasionally I
check it with the TDS meter. Each batch varies with time and strength
Take care,
V
Thank so much, V. It's good to know that
Ode Coyote wrote:
You are enjoying the severe limitations of a totally uncontrolled
generator running away.
They do 'work' but you have to work them.
Raine: I'm beginning to learn that, yes. It's the working them that I
need help with.
There is no way at all to predict PPM using time
marmar...@aol.com wrote:
*In a message dated 4/22/05 2:04:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
rainelov...@sbcglobal.net writes:
*
Is this normal? Should I have taken it off the light at some point,
rather than heating the whole time? Is this batch safe? If so, will
it be effective? What can I
In a message dated 4/23/2005 3:59:41 AM Central Standard Time,
rainelov...@sbcglobal.net writes:
Raine: Sadly, I'm completely ignorant on the qulaity of the distilled water
I'm using. Is there a specific brand, that's tested well, which I can rely on?
I've been real happy with the distilled
Raine wrote:
I'd love nothing more than to have $100+ to spend on a good unit
instead of this cheapie thing I have, but alas that's not the case. So
I've gotta learn how to make this work the best it can for our needs.
Raine, I have a question:
Do you have a friend or loved one who can handle
.5 to 5 millimaps?
It all depends on how much electrode you use and how far apart they are.
The idea is to not exceed about 1 millimap per square inch of electrode.
With constant stirring, you can go up to around 2 mA per and still get
good results.
I've never done this, but as per
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSMy Second Batch
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.2 - Release Date: 4/21/2005
--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
Instructions
The key to thermal stirring is to balance heat shed from the container sides with heat soak from the thermal source.
The water should not get 'hot'.
It's temperature 'differential' that does the stirring.
. Preheating the water on very small batches both speeds up the process at the
Another idea not as good, but helpful: I just used some alligator clips
with wires to hook in a cheapo digital multimeter, and keep it turned on
to the current draw setting. I monitored current level to adjust the
electrode spacing during the brewing to keep the current low. And it
also gave
Taking into consideration the feedback I'd received on my first batch,
tonight I brewed 8 oz for one hour using thermal stirring. About 25-30
min in I had heavy bearding and had to clean the rods, though the
mixture was still crystal clear. After that, I walked away from it for
the remainder
You are enjoying the severe limitations of a totally uncontrolled generator running away.
They do 'work' but you have to work them.
There is no way at all to predict PPM using time without a starting point.
A very minor difference in the water makes a major difference in time.
A single water
Morning Ode,
Or modify yours with the addition of a potentiometer and ammeter , get a
PPM/TDS or uS meter and watch yours like a hawk.
I understand what you are saying and follow the logic.
If one wanted to use a fixed range ammeter, what should this range be?
I have some very good
Clermont, FL 34711
www.rharrisinc.com
http://www.seasilver.com/reh
http://healthandhealing.blogspot.com
-Original Message-
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net]
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:21 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CSMy Second Batch
No virus found
In a message dated 4/22/05 2:04:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
rainelov...@sbcglobal.net writes:
Is this normal? Should I have taken it off the light at some point, rather
than heating the whole time? Is this batch safe? If so, will it be effective?
What can I do to produce a better batch
When making colloidal/ionic silver using a simple system that does not
employ current limiting, the process starts out very, very slowly and
increases at a faster and faster rate the longer it is left to operate.
With this system it is difficult to know when to stop the process
because it goes
Geez Wayne,
Harbor freight almost always has digital multimeters on sale for $5.
Getting so it's not worth the effort to make somethin' up.
Chuck
Reintarnation:
Coming back to life as a hillbilly.
On 4/22/2005 10:52:36 AM,
Evening Chuck,
These low priced tools may be ok and work for some people. I have a very
good digital meter, a Fluke, that I have used for a number of years, and a
few lesser meters.
Geez Wayne,
Harbor freight almost always has digital multimeters on sale for $5.
Getting so it's not worth
20 matches
Mail list logo
