Since we're discussing taper vs. parallel... maybe you guys could help me on this one.

I came across a set of 1957 Wilson Staff Dyna-Powered (2nd year) heads which are BRAND NEW, never been shafted (at least I'm told they are ... someone else told me they were probably re-finished). And... I know they were .343 (old, smaller taper), rather than .355, so I cannot even use the more recent .355 taper shafts in them. I've toyed with the idea of :

1. keeping them the way they are, and just looking at them occasionally
2. reaming them out a bit to accept .355, which are still widely available.
3. really reaming them out (if they'll go that far), to accept .370 parallel

I've had a few "collectors" want to buy them from me, as is...no telling what they want to do with them.
I suppose my ideal solution would be to find a set of "vintage" shafts around somewhere, and build them up as close to what they were, as possible, hang 'em on a wall and look at 'em.

Any suggestions as to how I find shafts that'll work, without drilling out the hosels??

Thanks!!



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 2/6/03 5:57:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


I was told that the taper offers more feeling in the head whereas the parallel offers feeling throughout the whole club.


Feeling in the clubhead is a function of swingweight. Parallel tip shafts can be swingweighted as can taper tipped shafts. Swingweight is a function of raw head weight, shaft length, shaft weight and grip weight. The shape of the shaft tip has nothing to do with swingweight. What do you mean by "feeling throughout the whole club"? Are you trying to determine which type of shaft to use? Why? Are you going to ream a taper tip hosel? Are you going to reshaft any particular club? Are you plannning to manufacture a set of clubs (how many sets)? Please ask the complete question. Is this a quiz? Throw all the cards on the table and I am sure you everyone here will help you "read your hand" with an answer or two.


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