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True. However, one of the significant points
of slitting the tip is so you won't have to alter the original configuration of
the hosel.
TFlan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 4:36
AM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Taper or
parallel
Recently tried slitting the tip of a shaft using a Dremel tool
and cutting wheel (reshafting a set of Callaway irons) was actually pretty
easy and looked great when finished. Although reaming out the hosel was
considerably less time consuming than slitting the tip.
George
I
skismith wrote:
Tflan,
that's the best tip I've seen in a long time!
How far up
with the slot ,usually?
Gerry
tflan wrote:
This is often opposed by the purists here but it
works. Use either taper or
parallel tip shafts and roughen the tips.
Important, do this before you do
the following; then, using a metal
cutting disc with your Dremel type tool,
cut a couple of slits into
the tips of the shafts. Then assemble in the
usual manner. If its good
enough for Callaway, its good enough for me.
Callaway slits every one
of their shaft tips and inserts a tip plug.
I've used this method reshafting taper tips when I couldn't get a shaft
to
match the existing quick enough. Never had a problem.
TFlan
----- Original Message -----
From: "jgk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk:
Taper or parallel
> Since we're discussing taper vs. parallel... maybe you guys could
help
> me on this one.
>
> I came across a set of
1957 Wilson Staff Dyna-Powered (2nd year) heads
> which are BRAND
NEW, never been shafted (at least I'm told they are ...
> someone
else told me they were probably re-finished). And... I know
> they were .343 (old, smaller taper), rather than .355, so I
cannot even
> use the more recent .355 taper shafts in
them. I've toyed with the
> idea of :
>
>
1. keeping them the way they are, and just looking at
them occasionally
> 2. reaming them out a bit to
accept .355, which are still widely
> available.
>
3. really reaming them out (if they'll go that far), to
accept .370
> parallel
>
> I've had a few
"collectors" want to buy them from me, as is...no telling
> what
they want to do with them.
>
> I suppose my ideal solution
would be to find a set of "vintage" shafts
> around somewhere, and
build them up as close to what they were, as
> possible, hang 'em
on a wall and look at 'em.
>
> Any suggestions as to how I
find shafts that'll work, without drilling
> out the hosels??
>
> Thanks!!
>
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 2/6/03 5:57:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
> >
> >
> >> I was told that the
taper offers more feeling in the head whereas the
> >>
parallel offers feeling throughout the whole club.
> >
>
>
> >
> > Feeling in the clubhead is a function of
swingweight. Parallel tip
> > shafts can be swingweighted as can
taper tipped shafts. Swingweight is
> > a function of raw head
weight, shaft length, shaft weight and grip
> > weight. The
shape of the shaft tip has nothing to do with swingweight.
> >
What do you mean by "feeling throughout the whole club"? Are you
> > trying to determine which type of shaft to use? Why? Are you
going to
> > ream a taper tip hosel? Are you going to reshaft
any particular club?
> > Are you plannning to manufacture a set
of clubs (how many sets)?
> > Please ask the complete question.
Is this a quiz? Throw all the cards
> > on the table and I am
sure you everyone here will help you "read your
> > hand" with
an answer or two.
>
>
>
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