Re: ShopTalk: Taper or parallel

[jgk]

Tom - thanks for that idea. I'd heard of that once before, yet forgotten about it. It does seem a viable solution, if I don't want to "mess with" the hosel diameters. I'll have to look at them again, but as I recall, the hosel walls are fairly thick and could stand a drilling out to .370, if all else fails.

jgk


tflan wrote:

This is often opposed by the purists here but it works. Use either taper or
parallel tip shafts and roughen the tips. Important, do this before you do
the following; then, using a metal cutting disc with your Dremel type tool,
cut a couple of slits into the tips of the shafts. Then assemble in the
usual manner. If its good enough for Callaway, its good enough for me.
Callaway slits every one of their shaft tips and inserts a tip plug.

I've used this method reshafting taper tips when I couldn't get a shaft to
match the existing quick enough. Never had a problem.

TFlan

----- Original Message -----
From: "jgk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Taper or parallel

Since we're discussing taper vs. parallel... maybe you guys could help
me on this one.

I came across a set of 1957 Wilson Staff Dyna-Powered (2nd year) heads
which are BRAND NEW, never been shafted (at least I'm told they are ...
someone else told me they were probably re-finished). And... I know
they were .343 (old, smaller taper), rather than .355, so I cannot even
use the more recent .355 taper shafts in them. I've toyed with the
idea of :

1. keeping them the way they are, and just looking at them occasionally
2. reaming them out a bit to accept .355, which are still widely
available.
3. really reaming them out (if they'll go that far), to accept .370
parallel

I've had a few "collectors" want to buy them from me, as is...no telling
what they want to do with them.

I suppose my ideal solution would be to find a set of "vintage" shafts
around somewhere, and build them up as close to what they were, as
possible, hang 'em on a wall and look at 'em.

Any suggestions as to how I find shafts that'll work, without drilling
out the hosels??

Thanks!!



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 2/6/03 5:57:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I was told that the taper offers more feeling in the head whereas the
parallel offers feeling throughout the whole club.

Feeling in the clubhead is a function of swingweight. Parallel tip
shafts can be swingweighted as can taper tipped shafts. Swingweight is
a function of raw head weight, shaft length, shaft weight and grip
weight. The shape of the shaft tip has nothing to do with swingweight.
What do you mean by "feeling throughout the whole club"? Are you
trying to determine which type of shaft to use? Why? Are you going to
ream a taper tip hosel? Are you going to reshaft any particular club?
Are you plannning to manufacture a set of clubs (how many sets)?
Please ask the complete question. Is this a quiz? Throw all the cards
on the table and I am sure you everyone here will help you "read your
hand" with an answer or two.