This is often opposed by the purists here but it
works. Use either taper or
parallel tip shafts and roughen the tips.
Important, do this before you do
the following; then, using a metal
cutting disc with your Dremel type tool,
cut a couple of slits into the
tips of the shafts. Then assemble in the
usual manner. If its good
enough for Callaway, its good enough for me.
Callaway slits every one of
their shaft tips and inserts a tip plug.
I've used this method reshafting taper tips when I couldn't get a shaft
to
match the existing quick enough. Never had a problem.
TFlan
----- Original Message -----
From: "jgk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003
3:52 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Taper or parallel
> Since we're discussing taper vs. parallel... maybe you guys could
help
> me on this one.
>
> I came across a set of 1957
Wilson Staff Dyna-Powered (2nd year) heads
> which are BRAND NEW,
never been shafted (at least I'm told they are ...
> someone else
told me they were probably re-finished). And... I know
>
they were .343 (old, smaller taper), rather than .355, so I cannot even
> use the more recent .355 taper shafts in them. I've
toyed with the
> idea of :
>
> 1.
keeping them the way they are, and just looking at them occasionally
> 2. reaming them out a bit to accept .355, which
are still widely
> available.
> 3. really
reaming them out (if they'll go that far), to accept .370
> parallel
>
> I've had a few "collectors" want to buy them from me, as
is...no telling
> what they want to do with them.
>
> I
suppose my ideal solution would be to find a set of "vintage" shafts
> around somewhere, and build them up as close to what they were, as
> possible, hang 'em on a wall and look at 'em.
>
> Any
suggestions as to how I find shafts that'll work, without drilling
>
out the hosels??
>
> Thanks!!
>
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > In a message
dated 2/6/03 5:57:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> >
>
>> I was told that the taper offers more feeling in the head whereas
the
> >> parallel offers feeling throughout the whole club.
> >
> >
> >
> > Feeling in the
clubhead is a function of swingweight. Parallel tip
> > shafts can
be swingweighted as can taper tipped shafts. Swingweight is
> > a
function of raw head weight, shaft length, shaft weight and grip
>
> weight. The shape of the shaft tip has nothing to do with swingweight.
> > What do you mean by "feeling throughout the whole club"?
Are you
> > trying to determine which type of shaft to use? Why?
Are you going to
> > ream a taper tip hosel? Are you going to
reshaft any particular club?
> > Are you plannning to manufacture
a set of clubs (how many sets)?
> > Please ask the complete
question. Is this a quiz? Throw all the cards
> > on the table and
I am sure you everyone here will help you "read your
> > hand"
with an answer or two.
>
>
>
