Carl, I've also done a number of these "DIY slit taper tips" with my Dremel and did have one club that failed. It was kind of an emergency fix for a 6-iron using a very light Brunswick UCV 2000 S steel shaft (about 96 grams) from a few years back that I tried in an iron set and pulled. This friend (good player age 70 and still walking the course carrying his bag shooting mid-70s to mid-80s) has an old set of Zings, hits down hard into the tough Bermuda and practices a lot. He liked the quick-fix club and played well with it...for about 6 months. Then, he said that he couldn't get it up in the air anymore. Was obvious why...the shaft was bent about 20% back right at the hosel. Don't know if it was just because of the light shaft and thin wall, the lack of ferrule support or perhaps the slits weakend the tip too much. The slits were a full 3/4" below the bend in the shaft, however, so I suspect it was a shaft wall failure and that the DIY taper tip didn't play any part in the problem. No more light shafts for this guy. :-)
Bernie Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl McKinley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 8:22 AM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Taper or parallel > Tflan, > Its scary to agree here but I've done it the same > way, never had a problem. Had a set of Titleist > 845(I think thats what they were), to reshaft. > Someone had attempted to reshaft them before with > Rifle shafts and half of them were broken. What > they tried to do was grind more off the tip to > make it fit. All they accomplished was wrecking a > good set of shafts. > > Was a real chore removing the broken tips from > inside the hosel. Some were really wedged in. > Reshafted useing to slit method. No problems, > everyone happy. > > Love these cut and gluers, great for business. > :-) > > > Carl > --- tflan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This is often opposed by the purists here but > > it works. Use either taper or > > parallel tip shafts and roughen the tips. > > Important, do this before you do > > the following; then, using a metal cutting disc > > with your Dremel type tool, > > cut a couple of slits into the tips of the > > shafts. Then assemble in the > > usual manner. If its good enough for Callaway, > > its good enough for me. > > Callaway slits every one of their shaft tips > > and inserts a tip plug. > > > > I've used this method reshafting taper tips > > when I couldn't get a shaft to > > match the existing quick enough. Never had a > > problem. > > > > TFlan > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "jgk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 3:52 PM > > Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Taper or parallel > > > > > > > Since we're discussing taper vs. parallel... > > maybe you guys could help > > > me on this one. > > > > > > I came across a set of 1957 Wilson Staff > > Dyna-Powered (2nd year) heads > > > which are BRAND NEW, never been shafted (at > > least I'm told they are ... > > > someone else told me they were probably > > re-finished). And... I know > > > they were .343 (old, smaller taper), rather > > than .355, so I cannot even > > > use the more recent .355 taper shafts in > > them. I've toyed with the > > > idea of : > > > > > > 1. keeping them the way they are, and just > > looking at them occasionally > > > 2. reaming them out a bit to accept .355, > > which are still widely > > > available. > > > 3. really reaming them out (if they'll go > > that far), to accept .370 > > > parallel > > > > > > I've had a few "collectors" want to buy them > > from me, as is...no telling > > > what they want to do with them. > > > > > > I suppose my ideal solution would be to find > > a set of "vintage" shafts > > > around somewhere, and build them up as close > > to what they were, as > > > possible, hang 'em on a wall and look at 'em. > > > > > > Any suggestions as to how I find shafts > > that'll work, without drilling > > > out the hosels?? > > > > > > Thanks!! > > > > > > > > > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > > > > > In a message dated 2/6/03 5:57:24 PM > > Eastern Standard Time, > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > > > > > > > > > >> I was told that the taper offers more > > feeling in the head whereas the > > > >> parallel offers feeling throughout the > > whole club. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Feeling in the clubhead is a function of > > swingweight. Parallel tip > > > > shafts can be swingweighted as can taper > > tipped shafts. Swingweight is > > > > a function of raw head weight, shaft > > length, shaft weight and grip > > > > weight. The shape of the shaft tip has > > nothing to do with swingweight. > > > > What do you mean by "feeling throughout the > > whole club"? Are you > > > > trying to determine which type of shaft to > > use? Why? Are you going to > > > > ream a taper tip hosel? Are you going to > > reshaft any particular club? > > > > Are you plannning to manufacture a set of > > clubs (how many sets)? > > > > Please ask the complete question. Is this a > > quiz? Throw all the cards > > > > on the table and I am sure you everyone > > here will help you "read your > > > > hand" with an answer or two. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== > Carl Mc Kinley, PCS Certified Class 'A' Clubmaker > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > P T Barnum is the patron saint of expensive club manufacturers. > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > >
