Hi Mike, Try  Skyline Industries, 381West Center, P.O. Box 477, Pleasant Grove, 
Utah 84062, 801-785-3534. In 04-91 I purchased two 54 GAL. ALUM. fuel tanks 
from their Mr.Stan Anderson for $692.06. I stand corrected they are tappered 
13" deep at bottom and 16" deep at top by 20" high and 44-1/2" long. When you 
get one out, you should find a name plate on top, with the address, tank number 
and other specs.    Ray

--- [email protected] wrote:

From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Fuel Tanks.....
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:55:21 -0700 (PDT)

I really appreciate all the input.I may well have a combination of
issues going on here. But,  I'm fairly sure the issue is the fuel
tanks themselves as, along with other misc. crud, I'm getting a fair
amount of that sand-like stuff that comes about as a galvanized fuel
tank begins to break down.

If that's the case, I figure I have to either replace the tanks or
"restore" them with some sort of of boil-out and epoxy coating
process. Has anybody had any experience doing this? Any
recommendations on getting tanks made? How about the fuel lines? Can
they be cleaned or do they need to be replaced also?

Thanks,

MAH

On Aug 8, 8:42 pm, Rich Zimmerman <[email protected]> wrote:
> It may not be your tanks.  Much of the  fuel has 10% alcohol added, which 
> tends
> to clean the dirt from inside the tanks and clogs the filters for a while. 
> Keep
> changing them.  It also attacks the rubber hose, so be sure to change out any
> that is not Alcohol rated.  
>
> It also loses octane very fast and attacks moisture which causes water in the
> tanks.
>
> If the tanks are fiberglass, they will be ruined as it will eat through.  
> Drain
> the water from the water separating filter each time you go out.  Be very
> cautious in the spring as a full tank will absorb water from the air and a 
> empty
> tank will sweat.  There's two schools of thought as to which way is better to
> put in up.
>
> Google it, there's all kinds of write ups and some magic snake oil to fix it. 
>  
> Star Tron may help.
>
> Hatteras built boats with tanks as part of the hull.  They need to be split 
> and
> bladders or aluminum tanks need to be inserted.  
>
>  Thanks
>
> Rich Zimmerman
>
> ________________________________
> From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sun, August 8, 2010 10:52:48 AM
> Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Fuel Tanks.....
>
> I'm pretty new to this site and to Uniflite ownership. bought a 1970
> 27' Express about a month and a half ago. It's in reasonable shape,
> twin 318's,but I don't really think it's been used much in the past
> 8-10 years. Just been mostly sitting at the dock.
>
> Well, since I've bought it, I've been running it. Almost every day.
> Figure I'll work the bugs out of it plus make my list off projects for
> the off-season. Biggest issue so far: Fuel tanks.
>
> The port tank is really bad. Full of crud. Ran it about 55nm yesterday
> and had to replace the canister filter element three times. The
> starboard tank is better, not nearly as much junk. But here is one
> issue: When I try to run both engines off the starboard tank, the port
> engine will behave like it's starved for fuel, won't go above 2600RPM
> or so. Wasn't like that just a month ago when I bought it.
>
> Otherwise, I think these tanks are going to have to go. Anybody with
> any thoughts, ideas or recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
>
> MAH
>
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