Sorry my description was incomplete about that.  I have extra fuel
tanks below the cockpit.  It was these that leaked.  I only had to
remove the generator and batteries to take out the tanks.  The
corrosion was caused by water leaking around the hatches and seeping
under the tanks.  My engine room tanks are fine - thank goodness!


On Aug 13, 11:08 am, rich <[email protected]> wrote:
> When you removed the fuel tanks from your boat did you have to remove
> the engines?
>
> On Aug 12, 7:21 am, Rocco <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I had corroded 100 gal aluminum gas tanks.  The bottoms and about 1"
> > up the sides were heavily pitted from water which had seeped between
> > them and the floor.  A friend recommended calling a tank coating
> > company because they had fixed his tanks in place, however, they said
> > my job was not for them because of the extent of the damage.
>
> > I got a quote from Ballard Sheet Metal to build new tanks with
> > fittings ($1.250 ea) which I thought was a fair price (aluminum is
> > pricey) but, close to $3,000 for new tanks was too much money for me
> > to spend without a go at it myself.
>
> > I removed the tanks from the boat, cleaned them THOROUGHLY of fuel and
> > cut the bottoms off with a Skill saw.  I then bought two sheets of pre-
> > cut aluminum from On-Line Metals (a great resource).  The sheets were
> > 1" wider and longer than the tank itself so a proper weld could be
> > made.  I then had a neighbor, who is building an aluminum boat
> > himself, weld the bottoms on the tanks.
>
> > I did make a mistake in not pre-testing the repaired tanks before I
> > installed them.  I found a pinhole leak after everything was in place
> > - Doh!  Fortunately, I was able to repair it in place with an aluminum
> > patch and metal bonding epoxy.
>
> > On Aug 11, 7:07 pm, <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Hi Mike, Try  Skyline Industries, 381West Center, P.O. Box 477, Pleasant 
> > > Grove, Utah 84062, 801-785-3534. In 04-91 I purchased two 54 GAL. ALUM. 
> > > fuel tanks from their Mr.Stan Anderson for $692.06. I stand corrected 
> > > they are tappered 13" deep at bottom and 16" deep at top by 20" high and 
> > > 44-1/2" long. When you get one out, you should find a name plate on top, 
> > > with the address, tank number and other specs.    Ray
>
> > > --- [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
> > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Fuel Tanks.....
> > > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
>
> > > I really appreciate all the input.I may well have a combination of
> > > issues going on here. But,  I'm fairly sure the issue is the fuel
> > > tanks themselves as, along with other misc. crud, I'm getting a fair
> > > amount of that sand-like stuff that comes about as a galvanized fuel
> > > tank begins to break down.
>
> > > If that's the case, I figure I have to either replace the tanks or
> > > "restore" them with some sort of of boil-out and epoxy coating
> > > process. Has anybody had any experience doing this? Any
> > > recommendations on getting tanks made? How about the fuel lines? Can
> > > they be cleaned or do they need to be replaced also?
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > MAH
>
> > > On Aug 8, 8:42 pm, Rich Zimmerman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > It may not be your tanks.  Much of the  fuel has 10% alcohol added, 
> > > > which tends
> > > > to clean the dirt from inside the tanks and clogs the filters for a 
> > > > while. Keep
> > > > changing them.  It also attacks the rubber hose, so be sure to change 
> > > > out any
> > > > that is not Alcohol rated.  
>
> > > > It also loses octane very fast and attacks moisture which causes water 
> > > > in the
> > > > tanks.
>
> > > > If the tanks are fiberglass, they will be ruined as it will eat 
> > > > through.  Drain
> > > > the water from the water separating filter each time you go out.  Be 
> > > > very
> > > > cautious in the spring as a full tank will absorb water from the air 
> > > > and a empty
> > > > tank will sweat.  There's two schools of thought as to which way is 
> > > > better to
> > > > put in up.
>
> > > > Google it, there's all kinds of write ups and some magic snake oil to 
> > > > fix it.  
> > > > Star Tron may help.
>
> > > > Hatteras built boats with tanks as part of the hull.  They need to be 
> > > > split and
> > > > bladders or aluminum tanks need to be inserted.  
>
> > > >  Thanks
>
> > > > Rich Zimmerman
>
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Sun, August 8, 2010 10:52:48 AM
> > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Fuel Tanks.....
>
> > > > I'm pretty new to this site and to Uniflite ownership. bought a 1970
> > > > 27' Express about a month and a half ago. It's in reasonable shape,
> > > > twin 318's,but I don't really think it's been used much in the past
> > > > 8-10 years. Just been mostly sitting at the dock.
>
> > > > Well, since I've bought it, I've been running it. Almost every day.
> > > > Figure I'll work the bugs out of it plus make my list off projects for
> > > > the off-season. Biggest issue so far: Fuel tanks.
>
> > > > The port tank is really bad. Full of crud. Ran it about 55nm yesterday
> > > > and had to replace the canister filter element three times. The
> > > > starboard tank is better, not nearly as much junk. But here is one
> > > > issue: When I try to run both engines off the starboard tank, the port
> > > > engine will behave like it's starved for fuel, won't go above 2600RPM
> > > > or so. Wasn't like that just a month ago when I bought it.
>
> > > > Otherwise, I think these tanks are going to have to go. Anybody with
> > > > any thoughts, ideas or recommendations?
>
> > > > Thanks,
>
> > > > MAH
>
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