When you removed the fuel tanks from your boat did you have to remove the engines?
On Aug 12, 7:21 am, Rocco <[email protected]> wrote: > I had corroded 100 gal aluminum gas tanks. The bottoms and about 1" > up the sides were heavily pitted from water which had seeped between > them and the floor. A friend recommended calling a tank coating > company because they had fixed his tanks in place, however, they said > my job was not for them because of the extent of the damage. > > I got a quote from Ballard Sheet Metal to build new tanks with > fittings ($1.250 ea) which I thought was a fair price (aluminum is > pricey) but, close to $3,000 for new tanks was too much money for me > to spend without a go at it myself. > > I removed the tanks from the boat, cleaned them THOROUGHLY of fuel and > cut the bottoms off with a Skill saw. I then bought two sheets of pre- > cut aluminum from On-Line Metals (a great resource). The sheets were > 1" wider and longer than the tank itself so a proper weld could be > made. I then had a neighbor, who is building an aluminum boat > himself, weld the bottoms on the tanks. > > I did make a mistake in not pre-testing the repaired tanks before I > installed them. I found a pinhole leak after everything was in place > - Doh! Fortunately, I was able to repair it in place with an aluminum > patch and metal bonding epoxy. > > On Aug 11, 7:07 pm, <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Hi Mike, Try Skyline Industries, 381West Center, P.O. Box 477, Pleasant > > Grove, Utah 84062, 801-785-3534. In 04-91 I purchased two 54 GAL. ALUM. > > fuel tanks from their Mr.Stan Anderson for $692.06. I stand corrected they > > are tappered 13" deep at bottom and 16" deep at top by 20" high and 44-1/2" > > long. When you get one out, you should find a name plate on top, with the > > address, tank number and other specs. Ray > > > --- [email protected] wrote: > > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]> > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Fuel Tanks..... > > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:55:21 -0700 (PDT) > > > I really appreciate all the input.I may well have a combination of > > issues going on here. But, I'm fairly sure the issue is the fuel > > tanks themselves as, along with other misc. crud, I'm getting a fair > > amount of that sand-like stuff that comes about as a galvanized fuel > > tank begins to break down. > > > If that's the case, I figure I have to either replace the tanks or > > "restore" them with some sort of of boil-out and epoxy coating > > process. Has anybody had any experience doing this? Any > > recommendations on getting tanks made? How about the fuel lines? Can > > they be cleaned or do they need to be replaced also? > > > Thanks, > > > MAH > > > On Aug 8, 8:42 pm, Rich Zimmerman <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > It may not be your tanks. Much of the fuel has 10% alcohol added, which > > > tends > > > to clean the dirt from inside the tanks and clogs the filters for a > > > while. Keep > > > changing them. It also attacks the rubber hose, so be sure to change out > > > any > > > that is not Alcohol rated. > > > > It also loses octane very fast and attacks moisture which causes water in > > > the > > > tanks. > > > > If the tanks are fiberglass, they will be ruined as it will eat through. > > > Drain > > > the water from the water separating filter each time you go out. Be very > > > cautious in the spring as a full tank will absorb water from the air and > > > a empty > > > tank will sweat. There's two schools of thought as to which way is > > > better to > > > put in up. > > > > Google it, there's all kinds of write ups and some magic snake oil to fix > > > it. > > > Star Tron may help. > > > > Hatteras built boats with tanks as part of the hull. They need to be > > > split and > > > bladders or aluminum tanks need to be inserted. > > > > Thanks > > > > Rich Zimmerman > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]> > > > Sent: Sun, August 8, 2010 10:52:48 AM > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Fuel Tanks..... > > > > I'm pretty new to this site and to Uniflite ownership. bought a 1970 > > > 27' Express about a month and a half ago. It's in reasonable shape, > > > twin 318's,but I don't really think it's been used much in the past > > > 8-10 years. Just been mostly sitting at the dock. > > > > Well, since I've bought it, I've been running it. Almost every day. > > > Figure I'll work the bugs out of it plus make my list off projects for > > > the off-season. Biggest issue so far: Fuel tanks. > > > > The port tank is really bad. Full of crud. Ran it about 55nm yesterday > > > and had to replace the canister filter element three times. The > > > starboard tank is better, not nearly as much junk. But here is one > > > issue: When I try to run both engines off the starboard tank, the port > > > engine will behave like it's starved for fuel, won't go above 2600RPM > > > or so. Wasn't like that just a month ago when I bought it. > > > > Otherwise, I think these tanks are going to have to go. Anybody with > > > any thoughts, ideas or recommendations? > > > > Thanks, > > > > MAH > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > > "UnifliteWorld" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > [email protected]. > > > For more options, visit this group > > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "UnifliteWorld" group. > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected]. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en.-Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. 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