Yes, the rules are different.  If we got caught pumping our holding
tanks in local US waters, we'd get hung.

On Aug 12, 8:12 am, Nancy Lloyd <[email protected]> wrote:
> Wow you must be from the US in canada if we got caught with that not being a 
> spec tank we'd get hung.
>
> Nancy Lloyd
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 07:21:24 -0700
> > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Fuel Tanks.....
> > From: [email protected]
> > To: [email protected]
>
> > I had corroded 100 gal aluminum gas tanks. The bottoms and about 1"
> > up the sides were heavily pitted from water which had seeped between
> > them and the floor. A friend recommended calling a tank coating
> > company because they had fixed his tanks in place, however, they said
> > my job was not for them because of the extent of the damage.
>
> > I got a quote from Ballard Sheet Metal to build new tanks with
> > fittings ($1.250 ea) which I thought was a fair price (aluminum is
> > pricey) but, close to $3,000 for new tanks was too much money for me
> > to spend without a go at it myself.
>
> > I removed the tanks from the boat, cleaned them THOROUGHLY of fuel and
> > cut the bottoms off with a Skill saw. I then bought two sheets of pre-
> > cut aluminum from On-Line Metals (a great resource). The sheets were
> > 1" wider and longer than the tank itself so a proper weld could be
> > made. I then had a neighbor, who is building an aluminum boat
> > himself, weld the bottoms on the tanks.
>
> > I did make a mistake in not pre-testing the repaired tanks before I
> > installed them. I found a pinhole leak after everything was in place
> > - Doh! Fortunately, I was able to repair it in place with an aluminum
> > patch and metal bonding epoxy.
>
> > On Aug 11, 7:07 pm, <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > Hi Mike, Try  Skyline Industries, 381West Center, P.O. Box 477, Pleasant 
> > > Grove, Utah 84062, 801-785-3534. In 04-91 I purchased two 54 GAL. ALUM. 
> > > fuel tanks from their Mr.Stan Anderson for $692.06. I stand corrected 
> > > they are tappered 13" deep at bottom and 16" deep at top by 20" high and 
> > > 44-1/2" long. When you get one out, you should find a name plate on top, 
> > > with the address, tank number and other specs.    Ray
>
> > > --- [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
> > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Fuel Tanks.....
> > > Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
>
> > > I really appreciate all the input.I may well have a combination of
> > > issues going on here. But,  I'm fairly sure the issue is the fuel
> > > tanks themselves as, along with other misc. crud, I'm getting a fair
> > > amount of that sand-like stuff that comes about as a galvanized fuel
> > > tank begins to break down.
>
> > > If that's the case, I figure I have to either replace the tanks or
> > > "restore" them with some sort of of boil-out and epoxy coating
> > > process. Has anybody had any experience doing this? Any
> > > recommendations on getting tanks made? How about the fuel lines? Can
> > > they be cleaned or do they need to be replaced also?
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > MAH
>
> > > On Aug 8, 8:42 pm, Rich Zimmerman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > It may not be your tanks.  Much of the  fuel has 10% alcohol added, 
> > > > which tends
> > > > to clean the dirt from inside the tanks and clogs the filters for a 
> > > > while. Keep
> > > > changing them.  It also attacks the rubber hose, so be sure to change 
> > > > out any
> > > > that is not Alcohol rated.  
>
> > > > It also loses octane very fast and attacks moisture which causes water 
> > > > in the
> > > > tanks.
>
> > > > If the tanks are fiberglass, they will be ruined as it will eat 
> > > > through.  Drain
> > > > the water from the water separating filter each time you go out.  Be 
> > > > very
> > > > cautious in the spring as a full tank will absorb water from the air 
> > > > and a empty
> > > > tank will sweat.  There's two schools of thought as to which way is 
> > > > better to
> > > > put in up.
>
> > > > Google it, there's all kinds of write ups and some magic snake oil to 
> > > > fix it.  
> > > > Star Tron may help.
>
> > > > Hatteras built boats with tanks as part of the hull.  They need to be 
> > > > split and
> > > > bladders or aluminum tanks need to be inserted.  
>
> > > >  Thanks
>
> > > > Rich Zimmerman
>
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> > > > To: UnifliteWorld <[email protected]>
> > > > Sent: Sun, August 8, 2010 10:52:48 AM
> > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Fuel Tanks.....
>
> > > > I'm pretty new to this site and to Uniflite ownership. bought a 1970
> > > > 27' Express about a month and a half ago. It's in reasonable shape,
> > > > twin 318's,but I don't really think it's been used much in the past
> > > > 8-10 years. Just been mostly sitting at the dock.
>
> > > > Well, since I've bought it, I've been running it. Almost every day.
> > > > Figure I'll work the bugs out of it plus make my list off projects for
> > > > the off-season. Biggest issue so far: Fuel tanks.
>
> > > > The port tank is really bad. Full of crud. Ran it about 55nm yesterday
> > > > and had to replace the canister filter element three times. The
> > > > starboard tank is better, not nearly as much junk. But here is one
> > > > issue: When I try to run both engines off the starboard tank, the port
> > > > engine will behave like it's starved for fuel, won't go above 2600RPM
> > > > or so. Wasn't like that just a month ago when I bought it.
>
> > > > Otherwise, I think these tanks are going to have to go. Anybody with
> > > > any thoughts, ideas or recommendations?
>
> > > > Thanks,
>
> > > > MAH
>
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