Thanx TC (and others) for all the information...guess I'll need to check the
compression. A dumb question: can I use my automotive compression tester?
Should the cylinders all be within 5 lbs, or...? Do you open the airbox?
Any instructions on checking the compression would be greatly appreciated...
I seem to have used about a 1/3 quart or more in the last 1000 miles...it's
Mamalube ...but I really need to put a level on the bars as I'm having
trouble finding a flat place to check it.
So it's OK to use the car stuff (say Mobil-1)? It doesn't contain any
friction modifiers, etc that would harm the clutch?
They seem to hate full synthetic at my dealership---they said ANY synthetic
would be bad for the clutch...yet it almost feels like the clutch slightly
"hangs" with the Yamalube if anything...
I can tell its time to order a manual....
Thanx!
trueblue
>Trueblue,
>I don't know if this would make any difference for oil retention but I
>think you can make a good guess by when your compression readings
>stabilize. I have hot and cold readings from when my '93 was new and
>you could clearly see the engine changing all the way through 2K.
>
>At 677 miles I could see a difference of as much as 10 lbs between hot
>and cold readings w/ the biggest gap on cylinders 2 and 3.
>at 912 miles cold pressure readings had improved as much as 10 lbs on
>one cylinder and the least being 5 lbs .. the actual difference
>between cold and hot readings was averaging 5 lbs.
>
>At 1976 miles cylinders 1 and 4 only had 2 lbs difference between hot
>and cold readings w/ 2 & 3 averaging 5 lbs hot/cold difference.
>Somewhere between 1976 miles and shortly before an oil change at 2635
>miles these readings repeated themselves almost exactly ... (I missed
>recording the exact mileage), at the 2635 mile oil change the
>synthetic went in .... (Mobil 1 - 15w50 ... the car stuff ...) ...
>
>At 3826 miles, (I don't know why I have readings here .. I assume I
>was doing an oil change on a different bike and had the stuff out),
>the hot/cold difference repeated itself on cylinders 1&4 ... 2&3 also
>maintained their 5lb difference between hot and cold .. but the
>overall readings had increased an average of 3 lbs per cylinder
>........ So .. I don't know if that meant everybody was benefiting
>from more lubricating splash, (the synthetic is like water and flies
>all over the place), the engine was still settling down or the slight
>increase in peaks was carbon build-up .... who knows ... but I think
>the engine was done around 2K ...
>
>I have a Royal Star I picked up as a left over at the end of last year
>and at 618 miles when I did the first service there was no more that 2
>lbs difference between any cylinder .. hot or cold .... at 1532 miles
>.. the hot readings were 190, 191, 189, 188, (for cyl 1-4 in that
>order). Cold readings were all in the mid 180s with no preference to
>any cylinder .. Sooooooooo ... is this engine already seated ?? Does
>this mean the center cylinders on my Max never really seated ?? I
>don't know .....
>
>The only other thing I can say about synthetic is that it is weird ...
>When I first started using the mobil in the Max I put on a Don-o-lator
>spin on adapter .. I have been using AC Delco PF-1177 oil filters
>because they are dark blue and short ... When I used to use Castrol
>20w-50 GTX I always filled the oil level up to the top line, (leaving
>the small gap showing at the top of the window). When oil change time
>came around the oil was still at the top line. When you started the
>engine cold you could see the oil level go down briskly and when warm
>and idling you could sometimes see about 1/8 - 1/4 inch churning
>around in the bottom of the window.
>
>I did the same thing the first time I put the synthetic in, (filled to
>the top line). When I started the engine the oil disappeared from the
>window but you could see the stuff splashing all over the place ...
>When it idled .. you saw no residual level at the bottom of the
>window, (it was all busy being sprayed all over the place I guess). I
>realized that this was OK ... moves faster on cold startups etc ...
>and didn't matter because when I shut down the engine the level came
>back up to the mark. Welllllllll ... after my first ride I let the
>bike sit a short time and looked in the window and I had lost 1/8 inch
>from the top line .... I figured some of this oil had parked itself in
>the nooks and crannies so I topped it off and took another ride ...
>Parking it this time revealed a level I expected to see ..... The next
>morning the bike showed overfull ... there was no gap at the top of
>the window ........ so I took some out ...... to get it back down to
>the line.
>
>Ultimately ... after I got over this ... (who knows .. I figured it
>could be the check valve on this big oil filter etc ....), if I got a
>low reading .. I would just check it later ... it would strangely
>re-appear .. but sometimes you had to wait a few hours. The next thing
>I noticed was that if I tried to keep the level at the line that it
>would strangely get eaten ... it would disappear . ..... It didn't
>matter how many times I topped it off to the top line .. it would
>disappear ... all I had to do was burn up one tank of gas ... and it
>would be gone ... I finally gave in and never ever fill the thing to
>more than 1/8 inch below the top line .... and then it is still there
>at oil change time. I can only assume that running the higher level
>allows it to get blown out of the crankcase too easily and ingested by
>the intake .........so I just don't do that anymore ... I suspect some
>people may have noticed the same thing but may be mistaking this as
>burning oil ... as they keep trying to top it back up to the line
>.......
>
>If your bike is in the 2K range .. and you have not recorded any
>historic compression readings I would think it would be a good idea to
>do so before changing to synthetic .... then you can check again on
>your next service and see what the difference is. Knowing what you
>have now at least gives you something to compare to in the future.
>This might save you from blaming the synthetic if weird things start
>to happen and will allow you to address an out of spec cylinder with
>Yamaha before your warranty is up.
>campbell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "trueblue 28" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Rings seated yet?
>
>
> > How can I tell if my rings have seated? Everyone
> > says not to use synthetic oil, or additives like
> > XR-1, until your rings have seated...how do I know
> > when this has occurred?
>
>
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