uh, sorry, what's a leak down tester? I can guess yho' I'm not sure how it
would work. Do most shops have one?
thanx, Bradford
trueblue
Compression test Lets see, Oh yes we did do that 20 years ago. But it
tells
>you so little about the cyl. condition. it's OK for comparison but that is
>about it. It does not tell you a thing about the oil rings.LEAK DOWN TESTER
>is what is common in diagnosis these days .More if needed! BRADFORD
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "trueblue 28" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "V-MAX TECH LIST" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 5:16 PM
>Subject: Re: Rings seated yet?
>
>
>Thanx TC (and others) for all the information...guess I'll need to check
>the
>compression. A dumb question: can I use my automotive compression tester?
>Should the cylinders all be within 5 lbs, or...? Do you open the airbox?
>Any instructions on checking the compression would be greatly
>appreciated...
>I seem to have used about a 1/3 quart or more in the last 1000 miles...it's
>Mamalube ...but I really need to put a level on the bars as I'm having
>trouble finding a flat place to check it.
>So it's OK to use the car stuff (say Mobil-1)? It doesn't contain any
>friction modifiers, etc that would harm the clutch?
>They seem to hate full synthetic at my dealership---they said ANY synthetic
>would be bad for the clutch...yet it almost feels like the clutch slightly
>"hangs" with the Yamalube if anything...
>I can tell its time to order a manual....
>Thanx!
>trueblue
>
>
> >Trueblue,
> >I don't know if this would make any difference for oil retention but I
> >think you can make a good guess by when your compression readings
> >stabilize. I have hot and cold readings from when my '93 was new and
> >you could clearly see the engine changing all the way through 2K.
> >
> >At 677 miles I could see a difference of as much as 10 lbs between hot
> >and cold readings w/ the biggest gap on cylinders 2 and 3.
> >at 912 miles cold pressure readings had improved as much as 10 lbs on
> >one cylinder and the least being 5 lbs .. the actual difference
> >between cold and hot readings was averaging 5 lbs.
> >
> >At 1976 miles cylinders 1 and 4 only had 2 lbs difference between hot
> >and cold readings w/ 2 & 3 averaging 5 lbs hot/cold difference.
> >Somewhere between 1976 miles and shortly before an oil change at 2635
> >miles these readings repeated themselves almost exactly ... (I missed
> >recording the exact mileage), at the 2635 mile oil change the
> >synthetic went in .... (Mobil 1 - 15w50 ... the car stuff ...) ...
> >
> >At 3826 miles, (I don't know why I have readings here .. I assume I
> >was doing an oil change on a different bike and had the stuff out),
> >the hot/cold difference repeated itself on cylinders 1&4 ... 2&3 also
> >maintained their 5lb difference between hot and cold .. but the
> >overall readings had increased an average of 3 lbs per cylinder
> >........ So .. I don't know if that meant everybody was benefiting
> >from more lubricating splash, (the synthetic is like water and flies
> >all over the place), the engine was still settling down or the slight
> >increase in peaks was carbon build-up .... who knows ... but I think
> >the engine was done around 2K ...
> >
> >I have a Royal Star I picked up as a left over at the end of last year
> >and at 618 miles when I did the first service there was no more that 2
> >lbs difference between any cylinder .. hot or cold .... at 1532 miles
> >.. the hot readings were 190, 191, 189, 188, (for cyl 1-4 in that
> >order). Cold readings were all in the mid 180s with no preference to
> >any cylinder .. Sooooooooo ... is this engine already seated ?? Does
> >this mean the center cylinders on my Max never really seated ?? I
> >don't know .....
> >
> >The only other thing I can say about synthetic is that it is weird ...
> >When I first started using the mobil in the Max I put on a Don-o-lator
> >spin on adapter .. I have been using AC Delco PF-1177 oil filters
> >because they are dark blue and short ... When I used to use Castrol
> >20w-50 GTX I always filled the oil level up to the top line, (leaving
> >the small gap showing at the top of the window). When oil change time
> >came around the oil was still at the top line. When you started the
> >engine cold you could see the oil level go down briskly and when warm
> >and idling you could sometimes see about 1/8 - 1/4 inch churning
> >around in the bottom of the window.
> >
> >I did the same thing the first time I put the synthetic in, (filled to
> >the top line). When I started the engine the oil disappeared from the
> >window but you could see the stuff splashing all over the place ...
> >When it idled .. you saw no residual level at the bottom of the
> >window, (it was all busy being sprayed all over the place I guess). I
> >realized that this was OK ... moves faster on cold startups etc ...
> >and didn't matter because when I shut down the engine the level came
> >back up to the mark. Welllllllll ... after my first ride I let the
> >bike sit a short time and looked in the window and I had lost 1/8 inch
> >from the top line .... I figured some of this oil had parked itself in
> >the nooks and crannies so I topped it off and took another ride ...
> >Parking it this time revealed a level I expected to see ..... The next
> >morning the bike showed overfull ... there was no gap at the top of
> >the window ........ so I took some out ...... to get it back down to
> >the line.
> >
> >Ultimately ... after I got over this ... (who knows .. I figured it
> >could be the check valve on this big oil filter etc ....), if I got a
> >low reading .. I would just check it later ... it would strangely
> >re-appear .. but sometimes you had to wait a few hours. The next thing
> >I noticed was that if I tried to keep the level at the line that it
> >would strangely get eaten ... it would disappear . ..... It didn't
> >matter how many times I topped it off to the top line .. it would
> >disappear ... all I had to do was burn up one tank of gas ... and it
> >would be gone ... I finally gave in and never ever fill the thing to
> >more than 1/8 inch below the top line .... and then it is still there
> >at oil change time. I can only assume that running the higher level
> >allows it to get blown out of the crankcase too easily and ingested by
> >the intake .........so I just don't do that anymore ... I suspect some
> >people may have noticed the same thing but may be mistaking this as
> >burning oil ... as they keep trying to top it back up to the line
> >.......
> >
> >If your bike is in the 2K range .. and you have not recorded any
> >historic compression readings I would think it would be a good idea to
> >do so before changing to synthetic .... then you can check again on
> >your next service and see what the difference is. Knowing what you
> >have now at least gives you something to compare to in the future.
> >This might save you from blaming the synthetic if weird things start
> >to happen and will allow you to address an out of spec cylinder with
> >Yamaha before your warranty is up.
> >campbell
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "trueblue 28" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Rings seated yet?
> >
> >
> > > How can I tell if my rings have seated? Everyone
> > > says not to use synthetic oil, or additives like
> > > XR-1, until your rings have seated...how do I know
> > > when this has occurred?
> >
> >
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