Chris,
Good luck in hooking everything up and making it work! <<grin>>
An inverter draws approximately 10 times the DC current as it puts out
on the AC side. Your 1750 watt inverter can draw as much as 145 amps
from the batteries, requiring 2-0 (two-ought) welding cable, and a short
run at that. That same 1750 watts is less than 15 amps at 120 VAC.
Why do you say you won't use the pump switch? You do need a method of
turning off the pump at times.
<<Jim>>
"Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
>
> The electrical bits I ordered arrived today. I just finished pulling
> the old hookup, city/battery switch box, and transformer from the
> trailer. I have the lights and pump working off the batteries.
> Tomorrow, I'll mount the charger and route wires over to where the
> batteries will go. I'll have to put some new plywood in the back before
> mounting the batteries and inverter, however. It's interesting to note
> that when wiring an inverter, AC power should get the longer run of
> wires, as it transmits better than DC.
>
> I do have one question after all this rambling: what are the color
> standards for wires in '60s Airstreams? I have several orange (maybe
> they were red once?) wires and a blue wire that aren't connected to
> anything, but the lights still work. Some PO kindly labeled the wires
> running to the pump switch (which I probably won't use, but we'll see).
> These wires are a mystery to me. The 110VAC wiring is not exposed in
> the back, and I conclude that it's routed entirely in the walls from
> where the j-box for the shore power connection is. My guess is one of
> them is for the fan over the stove, so I'll short the connection there
> and do a continuity test (with no electricity hooked up, of course), but
> I have no idea how I'm going to figure out what those orange wires are.
>
> C
>
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>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
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<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
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