Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>
> Chris,
> Good luck in hooking everything up and making it work! <<grin>>
Thanks! I'm going to need it!
> An inverter draws approximately 10 times the DC current as it puts out
> on the AC side. Your 1750 watt inverter can draw as much as 145 amps
> from the batteries, requiring 2-0 (two-ought) welding cable, and a short
> run at that. That same 1750 watts is less than 15 amps at 120 VAC.
I only went for the inverter so we could use the 110VAC regardless of
being connected to shore power. I purchased a remote switch for it so
it will draw very little power unless we need it. Also, i have a bunch
of 2/0 wire left over from installing winches in the Land Rovers. They
have batteries under the driver's seat, but the winch kits came with
only enough 2/0 wire to go to the engine bay, so I had to make my own,
leaving me with the original stuff as extra. Sometimes it's good to be
a pack rat!
> Why do you say you won't use the pump switch? You do need a method of
> turning off the pump at times.
I'm putting in a bank of master switches, and was thinking about moving
the pump master there instead of using the one on the wall. I don't
plan on doing anything to disable it, so that if I want it as original,
it can be, but I like the idea of all the master switches (inverter,
pump, fan, lights, accessories) in one place, which is next to where the
meters will be.
C
> <<Jim>>
>
> "Christopher H. Dow" wrote:
> >
> > The electrical bits I ordered arrived today. I just finished pulling
> > the old hookup, city/battery switch box, and transformer from the
> > trailer. I have the lights and pump working off the batteries.
> > Tomorrow, I'll mount the charger and route wires over to where the
> > batteries will go. I'll have to put some new plywood in the back before
> > mounting the batteries and inverter, however. It's interesting to note
> > that when wiring an inverter, AC power should get the longer run of
> > wires, as it transmits better than DC.
> >
> > I do have one question after all this rambling: what are the color
> > standards for wires in '60s Airstreams? I have several orange (maybe
> > they were red once?) wires and a blue wire that aren't connected to
> > anything, but the lights still work. Some PO kindly labeled the wires
> > running to the pump switch (which I probably won't use, but we'll see).
> > These wires are a mystery to me. The 110VAC wiring is not exposed in
> > the back, and I conclude that it's routed entirely in the walls from
> > where the j-box for the shore power connection is. My guess is one of
> > them is for the fan over the stove, so I'll short the connection there
> > and do a continuity test (with no electricity hooked up, of course), but
> > I have no idea how I'm going to figure out what those orange wires are.
> >
> > C
> >
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> >
> > If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original
> > text from your reply.
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
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