VACList-Digest Sunday, October 28, 2001 Issue 106
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
2. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
3. Transmission Cooling - Save this post!
4. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
5. Newsletter
6. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
7. suspension worries
8. Re: suspension worries
9. Re: suspension worries
10. Re:
11. introduction
12. Re: Newsletter
13. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
14. Re: Towing in Overdrive
15. Re:
16. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge/brake problem
17. Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
18. Door Gasket?
19. Re:
20. Re: Door Gasket?
21. Re: Shurflo Pump
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:19:56 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
Joy,
I used regular solder, not silver solder or braze. The fitting was a
brass reducting bushing that I faced off, leaving a nice, smooth, shiny
face to solder onto the pan. Both fitting and pan were well-tinned when
I did the final soldering.
My memory doesn't tell me anymore what the melting point is on regular
soft solder, but it's well above normal operating temps of an automatic
transmission. There's no strain on either the guage or drain fitting, so
there should be no "fracture".
One caveat: besides checking to see that the temperature bulb won't hit
the tranny's innards, be sure that you don't install the fitting
directly under a bolt hole. (you don't need to ask how I know about this
problem!)
Silver solder would probably be better, and I have no excuse but
laziness for not using it. Both silver solder and flux are on my bench.
<<Jim>>
"Mr. Joy H. Hansen" wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Are you saying that you used regular Pb/Sn solder to make the conneciton?
> OR, are you doing a silver solder/braze so the application has physical
> strength to prevent an unplanned fracture? something like silphos? Think
> this is pretty important that others attempting this fix understand what's
> really involved.
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:52:07 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
Jim,
In my somewhat limited experience (only about 15,000 miles of towing
with the trans temp guage), I can tell you this:
My reasons for installing the gauge in the pan were that it was easy for
me, requiring only a $2.00 fitting from the h/w store, and I figure that
the oil in the pan is what the transmission is going to "see" next. It's
about the same as the oil returning from the cooler and is obviously
cooler than the oil exiting the tranny.
The oil stays quite cool, about 140 degrees on my gauge, during normal
towing. When I hit a hill that causes a slowdown while in OD, I force a
downshift to 3rd (direct) gear. By doing this, instead of letting the
transmission do its own thing, the TCC (torque converter clutch) will
lock up after the downshift. Remember that nearly all the heat in your
transmission is generated by the torque converter, not the gears, so it
only really heats up when the TCC is unlocked.
There's 2 situations when your tranny will heat quickly: during
campground manuevering, especially if the ground is soft or you are
moving up a hill, and during climbs or descents of steep hills with the
TCC unlocked. I've seen my gauge jump to 170 degrees in just a minute or
2 of manuevering. I've only been on one hill so far that caused the
gauge to climb even close to that.
That's why transmission shops love it when it snows: "rocking" your
vehicle heats the tranny in a big hurry!
Having a gauge in your transmission allows you to take action BEFORE
your tranny is overheated; you can downshift or pull to the side to
allow it to cool. Note that you should probably have your selector in
"Neutral", not "Park" if you stop for cooling, as many designs don't
circulate oil through the cooler when it's in "Park". If you do overheat
your oil, you can change it at your earliest opportunity, perhaps before
your transmission is destroyed by lack of proper lubrication. I've seen
a chart someplace that shows how long transmission fluid is "good" for,
depending on how hot it's gotten, and it's pretty short if temperatures
have reached 250 degrees.
Regarding your truck: if it's a half-ton (IE: "1500 series"), it has the
THM 700 R4 transmission; I think it's also known as the 4L60. While
there are no basic differences between those installed behind different
engines, the torque converter might be different and there will be
several subtle internal differences in the valve body, governor, etc.
That transmission is used in nearly all GM RWD vehicles, from mini-van
to Corvette, and there will be perhaps 30 or more variations in any
given model year. The only external difference is the bellhousing; it's
"small" for the 4-cylinder engines, "large" for the V6s and V8s. You
cannot simply swap out your tranny for another that's meant for a
different application, even if it bolts right up.
Do check your owner's manual on shifting recommendations: At least until
very recently, it was mandated to NEVER tow in OD, always shift it to
"direct". Failure to heed this advice will get very costly, and you'll
have no early warning.
It would probably be cheaper to change the axle ratio than to add a US
Gear, et. al, over/under unit, and that should be all you need,
especially with a gas engine. This will give you better performance,
maybe better mileage, and will be easier on your tranny.
<<Jim>>
jim clark wrote:
>
> At 05:34 PM 10/26/2001 -0400, you wrote:
> >Dan & Dave,
> > FWIW: When I installed a trans temp guage in my Dodge, I soldered a
> >fitting onto the side of the pan and screwed the fitting into it. My
> >second choice would be in the line going TO the cooler, not returning
> >from it.
> I have been following this with interest and due to lack of experience with
> overheating transmissions, I am wondering if the transmission tends to heat
> up "instantly", or is this a somewhat slow process with high temp building
> up slowly as the truck labors up the hill??? There was some indication
> that parking was as bad as a big hill.????
>
> I can understand having an eye on the gage as you start up the hill and
> downshifting or something as the needle moves up into the higher than
> normal area... If the needle suddenly jumps to overheated and the smoke
> comes out of the engine compartment all about the same time, I don't see
> much difference if the sensor is in the pan or in the return line.... I can
> understand the point that the line to the cooler gives more of an
> indication of the peak operating tamp at any one time... I could also buy
> the idea that the return line gives the indication of when the system is no
> longer correcting the higher temp in the tranny....would not the return
> line and the pan have pretty much the same temp.??? I am also having a
> little trouble believing that all of the gage mfgs have the wrong idea and
> are mistakenly putting the gage in the return line... wassup u xperts???
> When the truck mfg installs a gage, where do they put it???
>
> I am currently pulling about 7K lb with a 7K rated setup... If I could save
> a transmission by adding a gage, the cost would be negligible....Where
> would the "weak link" be... is it the trans, I have a little trouble
> believing that unless there are different transmissions for all the
> different engine setups...would a 6 liter Silverado have a different
> transmission than a 5.3 liter Silverado??? The towing rating is sure
> different....The dealer told me today that changing the rear end from 3.42
> to 3.73 would raise my rating by 1 K lb...to paraphrase a little, I seem to
> have bought more chain than I can swim with....I bought the locking
> differential to help with the snow, and now the cost of changing the rear
> end ratio will probably kill that idea... I am starting to wonder, do I
> need to talk to US Gear, or Banks to turn the rear end into a two speed
> kind of animal????
>
> I any of you truck experts can get me on the right track, I would
> appreciate it...
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Jim Clark
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 17:13:19 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Transmission Cooling - Save this post!
Every once in a while, there's an exceptionally great post - concise and
full of good, useful information. Jim Dunmyer's post below is one of these.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:52 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
> Jim,
> In my somewhat limited experience (only about 15,000 miles of towing
> with the trans temp guage), I can tell you this:
>
> My reasons for installing the gauge in the pan were that it was easy for
> me, requiring only a $2.00 fitting from the h/w store, and I figure that
> the oil in the pan is what the transmission is going to "see" next. It's
> about the same as the oil returning from the cooler and is obviously
> cooler than the oil exiting the tranny.
>
> The oil stays quite cool, about 140 degrees on my gauge, during normal
> towing. When I hit a hill that causes a slowdown while in OD, I force a
> downshift to 3rd (direct) gear. By doing this, instead of letting the
> transmission do its own thing, the TCC (torque converter clutch) will
> lock up after the downshift. Remember that nearly all the heat in your
> transmission is generated by the torque converter, not the gears, so it
> only really heats up when the TCC is unlocked.
>
> There's 2 situations when your tranny will heat quickly: during
> campground manuevering, especially if the ground is soft or you are
> moving up a hill, and during climbs or descents of steep hills with the
> TCC unlocked. I've seen my gauge jump to 170 degrees in just a minute or
> 2 of manuevering. I've only been on one hill so far that caused the
> gauge to climb even close to that.
>
> That's why transmission shops love it when it snows: "rocking" your
> vehicle heats the tranny in a big hurry!
>
> Having a gauge in your transmission allows you to take action BEFORE
> your tranny is overheated; you can downshift or pull to the side to
> allow it to cool. Note that you should probably have your selector in
> "Neutral", not "Park" if you stop for cooling, as many designs don't
> circulate oil through the cooler when it's in "Park". If you do overheat
> your oil, you can change it at your earliest opportunity, perhaps before
> your transmission is destroyed by lack of proper lubrication. I've seen
> a chart someplace that shows how long transmission fluid is "good" for,
> depending on how hot it's gotten, and it's pretty short if temperatures
> have reached 250 degrees.
>
> Regarding your truck: if it's a half-ton (IE: "1500 series"), it has the
> THM 700 R4 transmission; I think it's also known as the 4L60. While
> there are no basic differences between those installed behind different
> engines, the torque converter might be different and there will be
> several subtle internal differences in the valve body, governor, etc.
> That transmission is used in nearly all GM RWD vehicles, from mini-van
> to Corvette, and there will be perhaps 30 or more variations in any
> given model year. The only external difference is the bellhousing; it's
> "small" for the 4-cylinder engines, "large" for the V6s and V8s. You
> cannot simply swap out your tranny for another that's meant for a
> different application, even if it bolts right up.
>
> Do check your owner's manual on shifting recommendations: At least until
> very recently, it was mandated to NEVER tow in OD, always shift it to
> "direct". Failure to heed this advice will get very costly, and you'll
> have no early warning.
>
> It would probably be cheaper to change the axle ratio than to add a US
> Gear, et. al, over/under unit, and that should be all you need,
> especially with a gas engine. This will give you better performance,
> maybe better mileage, and will be easier on your tranny.
>
> <<Jim>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:30:11 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
>
>Do check your owner's manual on shifting recommendations: At least until
>very recently, it was mandated to NEVER tow in OD, always shift it to
>"direct". Failure to heed this advice will get very costly, and you'll
>have no early warning.
For what it's worth, the Owner's manual for my 1997 F250 states that it is
OK to tow while in OD. They say to turn OD off when climbing up or down
hills that cause the transmission to keep shifting up and down....
Any words of wisdom from others out there on wether or not to tow in Overdrive?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:33:32 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Newsletter
Hey Noland, Don, Rick, Tom, Wayne, Linda, Bonnie, Bud, Bryan, Fred, RJ,
Joanne, Ed, Herb, Pearl, Patrick, Randy and Chris ..... thanks for a fine
Q3 issue of The Vintage Advantage Newsletter ..... kudos to all of you.
Bob Patterson
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 19:42:18 -0500
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
Thanks for the input... I am at a dangerous point... the upgrade to a
Duramax will cost over 20K and right now almost anything seems like a good
deal compared to that...
The fun will be working up to what ever I finally do, as usual its not the
destination it's the trip....I did find some nice gauges from Banks
Engineering complete with pillar mount which I find attractive...I'm going
to talk to the dealer about changing the rear end ratio and get some prices
from the US Gear dealer who just happens to be about 5 miles from the
house....Also found that US Gear is in a suburb of Chicago... ( so am I )...
I find it interesting that just about anything ( half ton to a ton) is
rated at 7-8k lbs towing (see
http://gscsp.tl.com/towratings/tr99_chevrolet.cfm) depending on which
engine and which rear end... then a jump to 10K or so with the diesel or
the large V8...I would not feel too bad about getting into a 10K rated big
gas 2500 or 3500 series, but I am afraid it would take a lot of gas to keep
it happy...
The US Gear unit is kind of interesting as it would give two selectable
ratios, in my case, 3.42 and something between 4.10 and 4.56 for the heavy
hill pulling....I don't think I am too far off using the half ton for
pulling the approx. 7K load... the previous owner pulled the thing all over
the country this year with a 1500 series that was prepared for towing by a
custom shop in South Carolina... They take their custom work seriously in
that part of the country...he used a standard Reese with sway bar and I
have managed to talk myself into a Hensley... and that is another story...
I saw a pretty good size new Airstream being pulled by a Dodge Intrepid at
the Hensley gathering this year.. The trans on the 99 model has a tow mode
and it won't get into OD unless I go over 60 which is rare...I was afraid
that gas mileage would drop like a rock with the tow mode on and not
getting into OD, but I have not found it to be much different... maybe even
a little worse when I try to hustle a bit more..
One thing I have not been happy with are the brakes on the Silverado... The
pedal acts just like the system has air in it... The dealer says all the
1500 series were like that in 99 and the 2500 series acts like you would
expect a brake pedal to act... anybody know anything about that
wrinkle??..I would love to hear about a bulletin that says change a valve
or something....Hard braking gives that lump in the throat as the pedal
heads toward the floor...and keeps on going down...
As usual, thanks for the help, and I will let you all know if I do anything
radical....
Jim Clark
At 03:52 PM 10/27/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim,
> In my somewhat limited experience (only about 15,000 miles of towing
>with the trans temp guage), I can tell you this:
>
>My reasons for installing the gauge in the pan were that it was easy for
>me, requiring only a $2.00 fitting from the h/w store, and I figure that
>the oil in the pan is what the transmission is going to "see" next. It's
>about the same as the oil returning from the cooler and is obviously
>cooler than the oil exiting the tranny.
>
>The oil stays quite cool, about 140 degrees on my gauge, during normal
>towing. When I hit a hill that causes a slowdown while in OD, I force a
>downshift to 3rd (direct) gear. By doing this, instead of letting the
>transmission do its own thing, the TCC (torque converter clutch) will
>lock up after the downshift. Remember that nearly all the heat in your
>transmission is generated by the torque converter, not the gears, so it
>only really heats up when the TCC is unlocked.
>
>There's 2 situations when your tranny will heat quickly: during
>campground manuevering, especially if the ground is soft or you are
>moving up a hill, and during climbs or descents of steep hills with the
>TCC unlocked. I've seen my gauge jump to 170 degrees in just a minute or
>2 of manuevering. I've only been on one hill so far that caused the
>gauge to climb even close to that.
>
>That's why transmission shops love it when it snows: "rocking" your
>vehicle heats the tranny in a big hurry!
>
>Having a gauge in your transmission allows you to take action BEFORE
>your tranny is overheated; you can downshift or pull to the side to
>allow it to cool. Note that you should probably have your selector in
>"Neutral", not "Park" if you stop for cooling, as many designs don't
>circulate oil through the cooler when it's in "Park". If you do overheat
>your oil, you can change it at your earliest opportunity, perhaps before
>your transmission is destroyed by lack of proper lubrication. I've seen
>a chart someplace that shows how long transmission fluid is "good" for,
>depending on how hot it's gotten, and it's pretty short if temperatures
>have reached 250 degrees.
>
>Regarding your truck: if it's a half-ton (IE: "1500 series"), it has the
>THM 700 R4 transmission; I think it's also known as the 4L60. While
>there are no basic differences between those installed behind different
>engines, the torque converter might be different and there will be
>several subtle internal differences in the valve body, governor, etc.
>That transmission is used in nearly all GM RWD vehicles, from mini-van
>to Corvette, and there will be perhaps 30 or more variations in any
>given model year. The only external difference is the bellhousing; it's
>"small" for the 4-cylinder engines, "large" for the V6s and V8s. You
>cannot simply swap out your tranny for another that's meant for a
>different application, even if it bolts right up.
>
>Do check your owner's manual on shifting recommendations: At least until
>very recently, it was mandated to NEVER tow in OD, always shift it to
>"direct". Failure to heed this advice will get very costly, and you'll
>have no early warning.
>
>It would probably be cheaper to change the axle ratio than to add a US
>Gear, et. al, over/under unit, and that should be all you need,
>especially with a gas engine. This will give you better performance,
>maybe better mileage, and will be easier on your tranny.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
>jim clark wrote:
> >
> > At 05:34 PM 10/26/2001 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Dan & Dave,
> > > FWIW: When I installed a trans temp guage in my Dodge, I soldered a
> > >fitting onto the side of the pan and screwed the fitting into it. My
> > >second choice would be in the line going TO the cooler, not returning
> > >from it.
> > I have been following this with interest and due to lack of experience with
> > overheating transmissions, I am wondering if the transmission tends to heat
> > up "instantly", or is this a somewhat slow process with high temp building
> > up slowly as the truck labors up the hill??? There was some indication
> > that parking was as bad as a big hill.????
> >
> > I can understand having an eye on the gage as you start up the hill and
> > downshifting or something as the needle moves up into the higher than
> > normal area... If the needle suddenly jumps to overheated and the smoke
> > comes out of the engine compartment all about the same time, I don't see
> > much difference if the sensor is in the pan or in the return line.... I can
> > understand the point that the line to the cooler gives more of an
> > indication of the peak operating tamp at any one time... I could also buy
> > the idea that the return line gives the indication of when the system is no
> > longer correcting the higher temp in the tranny....would not the return
> > line and the pan have pretty much the same temp.??? I am also having a
> > little trouble believing that all of the gage mfgs have the wrong idea and
> > are mistakenly putting the gage in the return line... wassup u xperts???
> > When the truck mfg installs a gage, where do they put it???
> >
> > I am currently pulling about 7K lb with a 7K rated setup... If I could save
> > a transmission by adding a gage, the cost would be negligible....Where
> > would the "weak link" be... is it the trans, I have a little trouble
> > believing that unless there are different transmissions for all the
> > different engine setups...would a 6 liter Silverado have a different
> > transmission than a 5.3 liter Silverado??? The towing rating is sure
> > different....The dealer told me today that changing the rear end from 3.42
> > to 3.73 would raise my rating by 1 K lb...to paraphrase a little, I seem to
> > have bought more chain than I can swim with....I bought the locking
> > differential to help with the snow, and now the cost of changing the rear
> > end ratio will probably kill that idea... I am starting to wonder, do I
> > need to talk to US Gear, or Banks to turn the rear end into a two speed
> > kind of animal????
> >
> > I any of you truck experts can get me on the right track, I would
> > appreciate it...
> >
> > Thanks in advance...
> >
> > Jim Clark
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
Jim Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 17:55:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: suspension worries
First of all, thanks to the author of the transmission gage install. It was
a nice write-up and just the thing to get me motivated for my own filter and
gage install.
I have a recently purchased 68 overlander. While creeping around beneath
it, I noticed that the suspension arms are deflected past horizontal. In my
new, compulsive study of all things airstream, I have seen sites that say
this is a sign that you are overloaded, or that you need new torsion axles.
I don't have anything in the trailer, really. So, is this OK, or am I
looking at big bucks? Also, there is a slight flair of the body at the
wheel covers. Is this normal, or has my poor beauty already been beaten
half to death by a tired suspension?
I have a few other arcane technical questions about furnace blowers and
black water tanks, but this is the most pressing one right now.
Words of experience and wisdom greatly appreciated.
Jon
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 18:08:37 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: suspension worries
new axle from Henschen is $400 - $500, includes shocks, electric brakes,
etc., maybe even shipping. I think they used to simple replace the
'rubber-band', but i'm not sure if they do that anymore. see the archives
under 'henschen' or 'dura-torque' at www.tompatterson.com .
Also, you may have a different problem - is yours a 'rear bath' model? do a
search under 'frame-separation' and/or 'rear sag'.
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Fitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] suspension worries
> First of all, thanks to the author of the transmission gage install. It
was
> a nice write-up and just the thing to get me motivated for my own filter
and
> gage install.
>
> I have a recently purchased 68 overlander. While creeping around beneath
> it, I noticed that the suspension arms are deflected past horizontal. In
my
> new, compulsive study of all things airstream, I have seen sites that say
> this is a sign that you are overloaded, or that you need new torsion
axles.
> I don't have anything in the trailer, really. So, is this OK, or am I
> looking at big bucks? Also, there is a slight flair of the body at the
> wheel covers. Is this normal, or has my poor beauty already been beaten
> half to death by a tired suspension?
>
> I have a few other arcane technical questions about furnace blowers and
> black water tanks, but this is the most pressing one right now.
>
> Words of experience and wisdom greatly appreciated.
>
> Jon
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:45:23 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: suspension worries
Hi Jon ,
The slight flair over the wheels might be due to trying to fit larger profile or
wider tires in to tightly clearanced wheel wells. It can be tight squeeze ,
maybe the tire guy pulled on the skin a little too much trying to get new tires
in ,once upon a time.
Or it could the dreaded rear sag ...
Chris 67 caravel
Jon Fitz wrote:
>
>
> I Also, there is a slight flair of the body at the
> wheel covers. Is this normal, or has my poor beauty already been beaten
> half to death by a tired suspension?
> .
>
> Jon
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:46:39 -0500
From: "JJWEST" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Hello..
Westrich here, #7093.
I need red / blue plastic trim for my '78 Tradewind. This piping runs from
the "International" emblems on each side of the trailer & fits into the
1/4" groove around the trailer rear.
I have no part # to give here. Can anyone shed light?
Appreciated !!!!!!!
Jim Westrich, 7093.
Morganfield, Ky.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 22:10:59 -0700
From: john marcarelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: introduction
Hi,
We have just purchased a '67 caravel, our first airstream.
We're leaning toward replacing the shower (thus most of the rest
of the bathroom). Does anyone have a good lead on where to buy
aftermarket shower pans and basins? We are not set on original
stuff. We just want tit to be snazzy and functional.
If anyone has cabinetry or fabrication questions, we may be able
to help.
Thanks,
Dolly and John
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 21:16:14 -0700
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Newsletter
Bob,
Why thank you, ................... You are most welcome.
Pat
Bob Patterson wrote:
> Hey Noland, Don, Rick, Tom, Wayne, Linda, Bonnie, Bud, Bryan, Fred, RJ,
> Joanne, Ed, Herb, Pearl, Patrick, Randy and Chris ..... thanks for a fine
> Q3 issue of The Vintage Advantage Newsletter ..... kudos to all of you.
> Bob Patterson
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 00:00:24 -0500
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
Greetings Jim!
> I find it interesting that just about anything ( half ton to a ton) is
> rated at 7-8k lbs towing (see
> http://gscsp.tl.com/towratings/tr99_chevrolet.cfm) depending on which
> engine and which rear end... then a jump to 10K or so with the diesel or
> the large V8...I would not feel too bad about getting into a 10K rated big
> gas 2500 or 3500 series, but I am afraid it would take a lot of gas to
keep
> it happy...
I suspected the same thing about gas mileage, but took the plunge in '99 and
special ordered a K2500 Suburban with 7400 VORTEC V8 and fully heavy duty
package rated at 10,000 pounds. I tow a '64 Overlander, and my fuel economy
is better with my 7400 VORTEC than it was with my '95 K1500-Z71 Chevrolet
Club Cab Pickup with the 6,800 pound towing package. A side benefit is that
the Suburban rides better and handles the trailer with ease using a Reese
Dual Cam Sway Control hitch setup.
>
> The US Gear unit is kind of interesting as it would give two selectable
> ratios, in my case, 3.42 and something between 4.10 and 4.56 for the heavy
> hill pulling....I don't think I am too far off using the half ton for
> pulling the approx. 7K load... the previous owner pulled the thing all
over
> the country this year with a 1500 series that was prepared for towing by a
> custom shop in South Carolina... They take their custom work seriously in
> that part of the country...he used a standard Reese with sway bar and I
> have managed to talk myself into a Hensley... and that is another story...
> I saw a pretty good size new Airstream being pulled by a Dodge Intrepid at
> the Hensley gathering this year.. The trans on the 99 model has a tow mode
> and it won't get into OD unless I go over 60 which is rare...I was afraid
> that gas mileage would drop like a rock with the tow mode on and not
> getting into OD, but I have not found it to be much different... maybe
even
> a little worse when I try to hustle a bit more..
With the 7400 VORTEC, I have been able to tow in overdrive in anything but
the most mountainous terrain. The Suburban now has more than 70,000 miles,
and I am happy to report that my only mechanical failures have been the
electronic control module for the four-wheel-drive transfer case and the
water pump. The transmission was just serviced, and the fluid was red with
no indication of overheating nor other problems. The only unusual thing on
my Suburban is a special option coded heavy duty transmission that was
installed at the factory as a part of the special order.
>
> One thing I have not been happy with are the brakes on the Silverado...
The
> pedal acts just like the system has air in it... The dealer says all the
> 1500 series were like that in 99 and the 2500 series acts like you would
> expect a brake pedal to act... anybody know anything about that
> wrinkle??..I would love to hear about a bulletin that says change a valve
> or something....Hard braking gives that lump in the throat as the pedal
> heads toward the floor...and keeps on going down...
There is one thing that I would check if this has only been the case since
you started towing. If the brake controller taps into the brake hydraulics,
the result could be a spongy pedal that you note. My earlier GMC G2500
conversion van posed the same problem until I switched to a totally
electronic brake controller - - this was one of the early production vans
with anti-lock brakes. On the GMC van, even without the trailer, panic
stops were frightful until the hydraulic controller was replaced by an
electronic unit.
>
> As usual, thanks for the help, and I will let you all know if I do
anything
> radical....
>
> Jim Clark
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 00:10:00 -0500
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Towing in Overdrive
Greetings Dave!
The dealer and my owner's manual both supported towing in overdrive with my
'99 GMC K2500 Suburban with the 7400 VORTEC. As directed in the owner's
manual and by the dealer, I always downshift manually as soon as the
transmission begins to hunt. The Suburban now has over 70,000 miles and
more than 40% of that was towing my '64 Overlander. The transmission was
just serviced for the second time (35,000 mile intervals as per Dealer
Recommendations), and as with the first time - - the oil was still clean and
unburned. I am continuing to use the factory installed transmission oil
cooler and engine oil coolers that were part of the 10,000 pound trailer
towing package. With this rig, my solo MPG averages around 15 MPG and my
towing MPG averages between 10 and 12 (10 in the mountains and foothills 12
elsewhere).
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
> >Do check your owner's manual on shifting recommendations: At least until
> >very recently, it was mandated to NEVER tow in OD, always shift it to
> >"direct". Failure to heed this advice will get very costly, and you'll
> >have no early warning.
>
> For what it's worth, the Owner's manual for my 1997 F250 states that it is
> OK to tow while in OD. They say to turn OD off when climbing up or down
> hills that cause the transmission to keep shifting up and down....
>
> Any words of wisdom from others out there on wether or not to tow in
Overdrive?
>
> Dave
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:03:12 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Bambi wheel question?
What style wheels come on a 1963 Bambi? I currently have a set, but am looking for a
wheel for a spare. Is this a certain model wheel, or will I Have to measure wheels to
insure the correct size? Would I be able to order one from an Airstream dealer, or d
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:02:56 -0600
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge/brake problem
At 12:00 AM 10/28/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings Jim!
>
>
>
> > One thing I have not been happy with are the brakes on the Silverado...
>The
> > pedal acts just like the system has air in it... The dealer says all the
> > 1500 series were like that in 99 and the 2500 series acts like you would
> > expect a brake pedal to act... anybody know anything about that
> > wrinkle??..I would love to hear about a bulletin that says change a valve
> > or something....Hard braking gives that lump in the throat as the pedal
> > heads toward the floor...and keeps on going down...
>
>There is one thing that I would check if this has only been the case since
>you started towing. If the brake controller taps into the brake hydraulics,
>the result could be a spongy pedal that you note. My earlier GMC G2500
>conversion van posed the same problem until I switched to a totally
>electronic brake controller - - this was one of the early production vans
>with anti-lock brakes. On the GMC van, even without the trailer, panic
>stops were frightful until the hydraulic controller was replaced by an
>electronic unit.
> >
The brakes exhibited this problem from day one and I noticed that if I
continued to press on the brake pedal at a stop sign, it would continue to
go down??? like a system with air in it....
The brake controller I use is a Techumsea (sp?) Sentinel and it's not
tapped in the lines...Something is wrong with that years brake
design...anyone else experience this problem????
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:31:45 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Installing a trans temp gauge
Hello All,
I have been lurking on this thread with great interest. My 1998 1500 Suburban
is in the local shop waiting to have the trans problem diagnosed. First gear
shifts at the top of the RPM range and no reverse. I had it serviced 2 weeks
ago and the dealer said the fluid looked OK, we pulled the Sovereign about a
700 miles over the weekend to my college reunion in Indiana. Friday at lunch
I had the rear ends and transfer case fluids changed, I made it 12 miles home
before it started acting up. I have pulled my 1968 Sovereign about 22,000
miles of the 66,000 miles on the truck. (the 1959 Traveler 500 miles). I pull
in OD for the most part unless the terrain requires a down shift, just as the
owners manual allows. The 2 units loaded and together weigh about 13,500 lb.
The truck has a factory trans cooler and over heating has not been a problem
(no gauge to verify).
I told the mechanic (local shop that does better work than a dealer) if we
were going to have to rebuild or replace that I want to "beef up" the trans
and add a gauge. Now the question.... How do you "Beef Up" the trans in this
situation? I am not real keen on changing the rear end at this time, $$$$$
and I have a good idea that the trans repair will trash my fun money. Any
recommendations?
Also with the mushy brakes, I too had the same problem, the master cylinder
went on my way back from Denver this summer after putting up with that
problem for most of the year. It started around mid winter last year and the
Rockies did it in. With the new one installed (in North Platt, NE, nice guy
and great campground that sent me to him) I have never had that sinking
feeling that I can't stop. Might want to consider replacing it.
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
98 Suburban (replaced at the moment with 1981 Jeep CJ 5... it better not snow
until the truck is ready)
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:15:40 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Door Gasket?
I am seeing daylight around the door of the rear street side storage
compartment on my '77 Sovereign Intl.
The gasket is pretty shot, with little "give" to it. It looks similar to
the gasket around the entry door.
Is this gasket still available anywhere?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 09:08:57 -0800
From: Susan Altstatt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Hello All;
I'll be at the Death Valley 49ers Encampment Art Show again
this year
with my '64 Safari. Wendy, are you coming down this year?
Anyone else?
I'll be in the artist's and musician's lot from the 3rd thru
the 11th.
See you all there.
-Susan
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:19:33 -0600
From: jim clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Door Gasket?
At 11:15 AM 10/28/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>I am seeing daylight around the door of the rear street side storage
>compartment on my '77 Sovereign Intl.
>
>The gasket is pretty shot, with little "give" to it. It looks similar to
>the gasket around the entry door.
>
>Is this gasket still available anywhere?
>
>Dave
>
>_________________________________________________________________
The Airstream dealers sell a door gasket that seems to bee pretty universal
as far as year of the Airstream... There is a sticky side with a release
tape that you pull off as you place the gasket... I replaced the door
gasket on our 78 in about an hour including a lot of cleaning of old glue
etc....
Have Fun....
Jim Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:49:53 -0500
From: soule <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shurflo Pump
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions about my pump. As it turns out,
I was witnessing the death throes of the beast. This morning, the
interval between start-up and quitting steadily decreased
until...nothing. I checked the circuit and confirmed that there was 12V
and that the pressure switch was working. I bit the bullet and went out
and replaced it this afternoon. What a difference! I had no idea how
loud the old pump was until I heard the new one. Also, the shutoff
pressure is much higher and I'm actually getting some benefit from the
small Shurflo accumulator that I installed earlier. Now, I can draw a
quart or two before the pump comes on. With the old one, the
accumulator never made much difference, probably because of the low
shutoff pressure.
Lincoln Soule
1977 Tradewind
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #106
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