Joyce,
This is why I like to tie with people one-on-one.  I could show you how to have 
no bump in your dubbing to start.  I'll include that in DVD #2.  Actually, I 
can use the dubbing to color the thread and have a finely dubbed fly not much 
larger than the shank.  I rope-dub #32s with no bump at the tail.

I don't remember getting photos from you of Helen's technique, but if that's 
so, I would be happy to publish that the rope-dub was 1st done by her.  I'm not 
hanging my hat on the Rope-dub.  I demo'd the technique for years for free and 
during all that time no one brought up Helen's technique.  I'd be happy to be 
just the one to have popularized it rather than being 1st., like Tony does with 
the Chili-Pepper.  After all, she started waaaay before I was even born.  What 
I find strange is that I have been accused of plagerizing Polly Rosborough's 
technique by people that couldn't even do it and hadn't even seen his book.  
They were parroting someone they overheard.  

I have quite a following of master tiers that have adopted the rope-dub as 
their primary method of dubbing, if not only.  None of these master tiers have 
told me that my method was the same as Helen's.  Al Beatty has written a review 
for FlyTier and said that this was a unique approach.  If you are right, I need 
to get to him asap to have him make correction to his text.  He's a flyting 
master who's 'seen it all' but never made that connection.

This leaves only two conclusions.  If she did it and published it, it never got 
poplar amongst these master tiers.  Or, her technique was different, and 
photos/text don't tell what live or video shows.

So would you please send me that picture & text again?  Maybe 'Don is convinced 
he is the 1st', but that is only because he's been told that many times by 
professional world-class master tiers much better than he is.  The 1st one was 
in Green River, and he was a well-known guide on the Greene and a professional 
tier.  This was the year 2000 or so.  He said he had every book on the market 
in his shop/tying room and knew every technique out there, but hadn't seen my 
version of the rope-dub.  He adopted it right there at the show.

So I didn't invent my viewpoint out of 'smoke and mirrors' or ego,  and I will 
definitley correct it if Helen did it 1st.  I'll make corretions to all text 
and gladly give Helen the credit, even though I didn't learn it from her.  I'll 
also call Al Beatty and dozens of others who haven't called this to my 
attention.

Thanks,
Don
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Joyce M Westphal 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2010 10:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [VFB] Rope dubbing peacock- vs other techniques


  Larry, I call it the scofield midge..sorry, got the name wrong. You need to 
know that Don is convinced he is the first person to use his :rope dub 
technique. I sent him a picture of Helen Shaw using the same technique in a 
book I have of hers that was copyrighted 1959 and he refused to see that it was 
the same technique.  He also says that you can't move the noodle of dubbing up 
and down the thread when you use the Norvise.  I tried to tell him that I move 
it up and down all  the time, and the reason I really like spin dubbing is that 
you DON'T have to tie the dubbing down to use it, thus avoiding the knot of 
tied down dubbing, an unsightly bump, with the spin dubbing. I spin the 
dubbing, move the tiny tail right up to the area near the hook bend and spin it 
down, securing it with the spin itself and making a small and even, without 
unsightly bump, dubbing. I'll try and take a picture of it which will give you 
a better close up when I get home.  JOyce


  On Thu, Nov 4, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Larry Johnson <[email protected]> wrote:

    I can noodle in the rope-dub style, or spin all my materials with the tying 
thread as the wire.
    I made some short gnats (looked like Griffith's Gnats except the hackle was 
brown. not grizzly)
    My buddy was fishing on the Boulder Mts, and was the only one catching 
anything.  An old feller walked around to him and
    asked him what he was using.  My buddy gave him three or four of these 
flies, and one of my cards, and they all started catching fish.
    The old guy called me and asked for 4 dozen of them.  The next year he 
ordered 6 dozen.  I met him accidentally on the upper fish creek several summers
    ago.  He still had some of those flies, but said he had to stop giving them 
away.
    That was 1970 - 72.  The fly is now the Boulder Mt. Midge.
    size 12 - 16.  Peacock,(two or three herls) gold tinsel, and brown hackle, 
all "spun" with the working thread as the wire.
    At the Sowbug I was showing how to tie it in one minute or less.


    Larry J

    >>> "Don Ordes" <[email protected]> 11/3/2010 1:35 PM >>>
    Larry,
    I don't advocate that the rope-dub replaces everything. I advocate that the
    rope-dub works with all dubbings and is very fast, and achieves segments
    with taper in one pass, and speed, and all of the other things I list on the
    website page.  If someone wants to stay with a loop or other method because
    they are comfortable and practiced with it, who am I to say otherwise?

    But if someone can't afford the Nor-vise ($340+/-) and the load-em-up
    retractable bobbins, they can get the same results just as fast once they
    master the RD.  My advocacy is that a tier can use one technique for all
    dubbings, and have better control of the results with the fingertip
    manipulation of the noodle.  I didn't show photos yet, but I introduce many
    other materials along with tinsels into the peacock rope, such as cactus
    chennilles and ice-dub.  I show on the DVD that once the technique is
    mastered, a materials pliers can be used to speed up (not replace) the
    process even more.  DVD#2 will show even more techniques like this.
    Syn-seal is one dubbing that is speeded up by using a material clip (it's so
    slick).  But shape control is still with the fingertips on a stationary
    core.

    I have a question for you.  When you Nor-Vise your noodle, does the wire
    twist with the peacock?  A major departure of the rope-dub from other
    methods is that the wire does not twist and the roped noodle can therefore
    be compressed and shaped for a one-pass tie.

    I've seen tons of take-offs of the hackle-with-the-noodle approach, but
    they've all been since I originally posted it on the VFB in 2001, and I had
    been showing it in shows 2 years prior to that.  I wouldn't bet my life on
    it, of course, but I was never able to find any references to 'noodling the
    hackle with the dubbing' before 2000.  I watched Lefty rope peacock with
    wire in 2004 in Denver, but he didn't add the hackle to the rope.

    Last thing I care to get into is a technique-war.  I published the
    rope-dubbing for free for over 10 years and put it on Byard's site in 2001-
    all for free.  I wasn't trying to 'take' anyone and everyone had a choice
    and I didn't care what that was.  No money was at stake.  At the shows, the
    extended demos took 20 minutes and covered a dozen or more flies and
    sub-techniques.  Viewers stated that they could never remember it all, and
    so did I have a DVD.  A few thought it was Polly's technique, but I showed
    them in  his book that it is not.  So many of them, like Denny Conrad, asked
    for a DVD so they could study and practice all of the techniques at home.

    I still don't know if it was the best thing to do, but it's done.  The DVD
    is out and getting reviewed by the entire industry, with almost all positive
    feed-back.  I've had a few un-informed web-posters say negative things about
    it, but they were promptly informed.  A few complain about the price, but
    they are not purchasers or rope-dubbers, so they have no concept of the
    actual value of the methods on the DVD.  Al Beatty reviewed it just after I
    gave him one at the FFF clave in W Yellowstone.  He loved it and wrote a
    very positive review (so he tells me) for Fly Tyer Magazine, and wanted to
    buy the DVD.  It's FTM's choice when they print it, and I haven't seen it.

    I still rope-dub demo for free at the shows.  Fortunately, it goes so fast
    that viewers cannot retain what they see, and they still get the DVD if they
    can afford it.  That's the other thing- the economy.  That's why I did a 25%
    discount for the next 2 months to make it easier to buy them as gifts.

    So I say if you like your Nor-Vise better, by all means stick with it.  I
    just hope you've done a heads-up comparison of speed vs results vs
    versatility.

    Very Best Regards,
    DonO

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Larry Johnson" <[email protected]>
    To: <[email protected]>
    Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 12:22 PM
    Subject: Re: [VFB] Rope dubbing peacock- Fly of the Week- peacock


    Don:  I know that you are a great advocate of the rope-dub technique.  I
    have been doing the same thing you are doing with the peacock and hackle for
    years on my Nor-Vise.  I add a strip of narrow tinsel to it.  I fish it like
    that, or use it as a body for a caddis or mayfly, etc.

    Larry Johnson
    Springville, Utah

    >>> "Don Ordes" <[email protected]> 11/3/2010 11:18 AM >>>
    For Rope-dubbers:

    Below is just a little of what can be done with rope-dubbing peacock,
    hackle, and dubbing.


    This is a local pattern called a half-back nymph.  I tied the wing-case on
    and left it in a post-type position.
    I roped the peacock over wire in a 50/50 bare/hackle set-up.  When I wrapped
    forward, the hackle started at the
    wingcase and finished at the bead.  I then pulled the wing forward and tied
    off.  The hackling looks different
    than a palmered version (see close-up below) and is tooth-proof.  (See
    portion way below)



     Compressed, dense hackle^


    This is a size 26 peacock fly, using the fine- but weak- iridescent green
    feathers above the peacock
    eye.  It much stronger when roped with a strong core thread.


    Your peacock can be furled so tight that it will furl on itself.  I was
    never able to get it this tight
    twisting the wire with the peacock as the wire would break, as it is too
    brittle to twist.



    Above is an assortment of approaches. Don't forget that your rope can be
    compressed
    to make it thicker and this bunches up the hackles, making them denser.
    (photo #2)
    The hackle can be introduced at any part of the fly, or on the whole fly.




    This photo above demonstrates the durability of a wire-cored peacock/hackle
    fly.  I took a small saw and chewed off the peacock and hackle all the way
    down the the core.  The fly still cannot come unravelled- either the peacock
    or the hackle.  Actually, I have a couple like this I use as patterns with
    copper-colored wire segments showing.  I do this saw-demo at all the shows.
    Chuck has gotten a ton of these demo-flies to salvage the hooks.

    Go ahead and ask any questions.

    DonO



    --
    You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail"
    group.

    To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
    To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
    [email protected]
    For more options, visit this group at
    http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en

    VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com

    --
    You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail"
    group.

    To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
    To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
    [email protected]
    For more options, visit this group at
    http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en

    VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com

    --
    You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" 
group.

    To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
    To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected]
    For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en

    VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com

    --
    You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" 
group.

    To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
    To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected]
    For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en

    VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com



  -- 
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" group.
   
  To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
  To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected]
  For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en
   
  VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" group.

To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected]
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/vfb-mail?hl=en

VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com

Reply via email to