Tube fly boxes are expensive, so I've found a cheaper alternative. I use plastic boxes I found in the rifle cartridge section in gun shops. They are boxes with 20 openings for holding large caliber shells, with a lid that slides over the whole thing. Works well for those few tube flies I've tied.

jack
Austin

On 11/9/2010 6:46 PM, Joyce M Westphal wrote:
Great article. I've never tied a tube fly, but shall make some once the Christmas rush is over. How do you keep these in your fly box once you've tied them>? Do you attach line with a loop, then run it through the tube and thus have it ready when you need it on the stream? Inquiring minds want to know. I can speak to the crow bar effect..lost several great kings in AK with just that happening. They'd jump, swing their heads and then the hook would come flying out of their mouths. Got smart and used some rather shorter shanked Fat Alberts and egg sucking leeches to overcome the effect. Wish I lived close enough for a seminar on this aspect of tying. Joyce

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 2:20 AM, Don Ordes <f...@tribcsp.com <mailto:f...@tribcsp.com>> wrote:

    For any type of fishing, a drawback of long-shanked hooks is the
    'crow-bar' effect.  The pull against the eye of the hook is
    transferred to the bend with the shank acting as a lever against
    the fish's jaw.  This can do a lot of damage to the fish if hooked
    solidly (wallow out a hole), or bend the shank, or leverage the
    bend and barb right out of the hook-set hole- again damaging the
    fish in the process. The bigger and stronger the fish is, the
    worse the problem is.
    A short shank hook keeps a hook-set better, especially with fish
that roll. I've never witnessed a tuna rolling, though, LOL. (Shhhhhhh.... I have a new shrimp pattern in a tube design because
    I wanted to get away from long-shanked hooks just to get a tying
    platform.)
    Hooks can be selected for the quarry and fishing circumstance
    rather than pre-tied into the fly.
    You can change during fishing as you see the need.  You may want
    to try a double hook, or a circle hook, or a smaller hook, etc.,
    or change from freshwater bronze to saltwater alloy.  Or, you can
    fish bronze hooks in saltwater, which would allow the hook to
    dissolve quickly if a fish breaks off, and you don't have to worry
    about a bronze hook corroding underneath the materials in a
    saltwater-fished fly.
    The tube-fly can also side up the tippet to get it away from the
    teeth once the hook-set is made.  If the fly is tied on the +-side
of neutral bouyancy, a broken off fly will float to the surface. But if you want this fly to sink while fishing, a heavy hook and
    some brass beads between the hook and tube will get it down to the
    fish, as in fising for Spanish Mackeral running 15' down.  A tiny
    bit of foam glued into the end of the tube will keep a big hook
    from prematurely backing away from the tube during a strip-stop
    retreive or a long sink to the zone.
    Tube flies can also be tied articulated, actually stacked.  For
    example, you could have a 2-part squid (tentacles + eyes/mantle)
    in different colors to mix&match.  There's some web-sites showing
    articulated tube flies- just Google them up.
    Just my 2 cents worth.
    Back ito my padded cell.
    DonO
    ----- Original Message -----

        *From:* Jay Paulson <mailto:rustyh...@centurytel.net>
        *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
        <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
        *Sent:* Tuesday, November 09, 2010 12:51 PM
        *Subject:* RE: [VFB] was Hello, now tube flies

        Many tube diameters can hold the hook by itself. I also glue a
        larger diameter tube over the smaller tube the fly is tied on
        for large hooks. This is actually preferable as the rubber
        tubing doesn’t hold the hook well for hooking (IMHO). The
        reason many people in Europe use treble hooks is that salmon
        are very good at throwing a single hook. I fished Norway this
        year and can attest to that. I also think that salmon are good
        at this cause they know if landed, they are going to get
        bonked. I must admit to not understanding this, especially the
        killing of grilse. However, my buddy from London landed a 20
        pounder (netted by me) that was released!

        There are many short-shanked, large-gapped hooks available now
        for tube flies.

        For a great source of tubes, check out:
        http://www.hmhvises.com/tubesconeshooks.htm

        Jay

        *From:*vfb-m...@googlegroups.com
        <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
        [mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
        <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *ashley strutt
        *Sent:* Tuesday, November 09, 2010 11:14 AM
        *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
        *Subject:* Re: [VFB] was Hello, now tube flies

        I know that a lot of people like to use single hooks for their
        tubes, I notice that Partridge market them.

        I also remember Deb, who used to be on the list, saying that
        she liked to use tubes for Bluefish tied on plastic tubes
        because when the fish takes the fly slides up the leader and
        if the leader breaks she can just pick up the floating fly.
        Although I thought that tubes were held in place at the
        tube/hook join by a length of rubber tubing.

        Ashley

        On 9 November 2010 19:01, Jay Paulson
        <rustyh...@centurytel.net <mailto:rustyh...@centurytel.net>>
        wrote:

        In Atlantic Salmon fishing, tube flies allow the use of a
        small treble hook or double hook – much used over there. Here
        in the Pacific NW, tube flies are a great way to build a long
        fly with little weight and to put a small hook at the back.
        For my dries, tubes allow me to build large flies without
        using ungainly hooks. I throw dry flies for steelhead up to 3
        inches long.

        Articulated flies are also used a lot, but I have some
        reservations about the hooking abilities of them. Tubes hold
        the hook rigidly and, I feel, hook more consisitently.

        Jay

        *From:*vfb-m...@googlegroups.com
        <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
        [mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
        <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *Wayne
        Blake-Hedges
        *Sent:* Tuesday, November 09, 2010 9:56 AM


        *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
        *Subject:* Re: [VFB] was Hello, now tube flies

        Hi All;

        I still don't see the advantages to tying a tube fly versus a
        conventional fly, can someone point out why you would want to
        tie a tube fly?

        Wayneb

        --- On *Tue, 11/9/10, Hans Weilenmann
        /<hans.weilenm...@gmail.com
        <mailto:hans.weilenm...@gmail.com>>/* wrote:


            From: Hans Weilenmann <hans.weilenm...@gmail.com
            <mailto:hans.weilenm...@gmail.com>>
            Subject: Re: [VFB] was Hello, now tube flies
            To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
            <mailto:vfb-mail@googlegroups.com>
            Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 9:23 AM

            Like this set maybe?

            http://www.danica.com/flytier/jshumakov/jshumakov.htm

            Cheers,
            Hans

            ==================== You have a Friend in Low Places
            ====================
            Hans Weilenmann, The Netherlands
            http://www.danica.com/flytier
            =================================================================

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