As Pete says "rod by rod". How true this is.
I have posted this before, when you buy a rod, always
check for the spine/spline. If it is off the center
the rod will not cast right and will want to twist in
your hand with a load on it. I don't have time right
now to type it all out, if there is an interest, I
will do it later.
Have to go now.
Tony
--- Peter Gramp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> >
> > Glenn: I'd love to have that formula.. I have an
> 8ft 2 pc rod, that is a 5
> > wt rod (but, I want a 9ft 4wt rod)and I use a 6wt
> weight forward line. I
> > do
> > like my furled leaders better than I did the
> tapered ones I was using, but
> 
> 
> This alone may cause some of your turn-over
> problems, as I've found out by
> experience... Even though a rod may say it is rated
> 5-6 weight, it may be
> better suited for one weight line versus another...
> Case in point, my
> "Walley World special" rod is 8'6" and supposedly
> 5-6wt, but for whatever
> reason a DT4F (double-tapered, 4wt floating) line
> (generic brand - i think
> sci anglers) works best on it.  It depends on a
> rod-by-rod basis, but in my
> personal experience (albeit limited and quite
> possibly off), a change in
> line weight changes the leader's turnover.  I also
> found that I wasn't using
> a stiff enough butt section on my hand-tied
> leaders... the result was a
> "wind cast" knot or (worse in my opinion) a sudden
> pile-up of leader at my
> feet with the line still shooting in a loop on the
> water with a resounding
> 'plunk!'  ;)  I guess my point is don't be
> discouraged, as it could be
> anything, but personally I'd try matching the rod
> weight to the line weight
> as a start, then tinkering with other factors (the
> leader itself), if that
> doesn't help.
> Again, just my opinion from personal experience, and
> I may be completely
> wrong on that one.
> Tight wraps,
> Pete
> 

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