The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 107 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Re: <E36> climate control cuts out <E34> HVAC problems E30 Leaking power steering rack Re: E30 Leaking power steering rack Re: E30 Leaking power steering rack <E36> HK head backlight water pump mounting bolts Re: water pump mounting bolts <misc> new 5 E30 ball joints Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Re: Off-topic ...IX AWD parts needed
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 01:46:02 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, I've read that there can often be a bad solder joint in the big wiring connector at the back of the control unit that will cause problems just like you are seeing. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 1:04 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36> climate control cuts out Earlier pleas for help with E36 digital climate control backlighting were in error... turns out the whole thing intermittently cuts in and out. When it's working, everything operates normally. When it's not, the display goes completely blank and the fan goes dead. Sometimes the LEDs on the selector buttons remain lit, sometimes they go dark too. All other electrical functions of the car are normal; this is isolated to the climate control. It'll stay on for a few minutes, go dead for a few more, and bounce like that over and over again. Doesn't stay on for more than maybe five minutes at a time. If anybody has any BTDTs, I'd be terribly grateful. Is this a wiring problem? Some issue with the control unit? Or is it just the head? I'm thinking this could be a real b*tch to debug, so if anybody has any experience with this, please do share. I'm going to re-seat everything tomorrow, but somehow I have to believe something is on the way out. - Kevin Jay '96 328is, intermittent climate control Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 06:38:03 -0600 From: Eric Giles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin- Malcom is correct. The solder joints on the circuit board inside the unit tend to go bad after a while, causing the symptoms you describe. Mine started doing this a couple of months ago, and after searching I found a post on Bimmerforums that described how to fix the problem. After doing this mine has worked perfectly. Here is one of the posts on Bimmerforums that explains what to do: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=451009&postcount=19 Just concentrate on resoldering the connection where the main wiring harness attaches and where the blue capacitor is located. The fix took me less than an hour from start to finish. If you have any questions let me know. Eric Giles '97 M3/4 '90 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 08:07:35 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E34> HVAC problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> '94 525i touring Upper and lower vents always blow hot. Thumb wheel in the middle vent works. Drivers side temp knob changes air temp in middle vents, but they seem to go cold when heating and target temperature has been reached. Heater valve is new, but didn't seem to change anything. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 07:32:33 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Hermann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E30 Leaking power steering rack Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My power steering rack has starting leaking fluid all over the place. Since the car is primarily a track car, I figured I'd forego the power steering and just disconnect the power steering pump. The local mechanic says the rack will eventually seize up if it has been leaking fluid even if the power steering pump is disconnected. Do I need to replace the leaking rack or will it work fine if I just disconnect the power steering pump? Thanks, dan 88 325is __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 09:41:36 -0800 From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dan Hermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Leaking power steering rack Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've been running without the power steering pump for 4 years. No problem. Most people prefer the better feel in the steering wheel. Just cap off where the hoses go into the steering rack if you remove the entire pump system like I did. Lots of room to work on the engine now. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dan Hermann Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 7:33 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] E30 Leaking power steering rack My power steering rack has starting leaking fluid all over the place. Since the car is primarily a track car, I figured I'd forego the power steering and just disconnect the power steering pump. The local mechanic says the rack will eventually seize up if it has been leaking fluid even if the power steering pump is disconnected. Do I need to replace the leaking rack or will it work fine if I just disconnect the power steering pump? Thanks, dan 88 325is __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 12:45:27 -0500 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Leaking power steering rack Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> dan asks > My power steering rack has starting leaking fluid all > over the place. Since the car is primarily a track > car, I figured I'd forego the power steering and just > disconnect the power steering pump. The local > mechanic says the rack will eventually seize up if it > has been leaking fluid even if the power steering pump > is disconnected. Do I need to replace the leaking > rack or will it work fine if I just disconnect the > power steering pump? my rack did the same ('89 325i) - mechanic disconnected pump belt, drained most of the fluid (otherwise it will fill the bellows and burst them) and I've been driving like that, problem free for, 6+ years, 100k+ miles, dozens of track days (car is daily driver + track rat, and I live in Canada with winter temperatures down to 30 below F and summer temps up to +100F) chris pawlowicz '89 325i, '99 z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 15:04:54 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> HK head backlight Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Looks like my weekend to ask about dash lighting... Anybody know how to replace the backlight(s) in an HK head? Are these bulbs like I find in the trip computer display? - Kevin Jay '96 328is ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 16:04:51 -0600 From: "Roy Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: water pump mounting bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do the water pump bolts that go into the timing chain cover come out? I was replacing my water pump and one of the bolts broke. They are the 4 headless bolts that screw into the timing chain cover. The ons you fasten the water pump onto with nuts. Mine broke off with about a 1/4 inch sticking out of the timing chain cover. Its too small to remove by locking 2 nuts back to back on it. Since the bolts are headless you can just unscrew them with a socket or anything. I tried to unscrew it by clamping down on it with vise-grips but I could not get enough grip. The bolt didnt seem to move at all and the vise-grips just slipped around. I was wondering if anyone has ever had a similar problem. I guess just reassurance that the bolts do in fact come out would be enough. In case you are not sure what I am talking about it is the bolts that hold the water pump on as seen in figure 19 on page 170-11 in the Bentley. Has anyone ever had one of these bolts break before? How hard is it to drill and tap those if it comes down to it? It seems like anytime you work on a car you end up replacing more than just the parts you intended. I ran out of time yesterday working on this so I figured I would ask the list for advice before I get the drill out. Thanks Roy Collins 96 328i almost with a new water pump ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 17:17:02 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: water pump mounting bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roy, I just was in there on my wife's E36 328i. Those are M6 X 30 studs. Studs is the term used for those "headless bolts". M6 is the thread size and the "30" stands for the 30 mm length. They do indeed twist out in a counter-clockwise direction. Another use for that part is to hold in the Vanos unit above the water pump, so if you need to borrow one from another location to get on the road, there are three of them on the front of the cylinder head holding on the Vanos unit. You could borrow one from that location, reassemble your project and install the missing one when the dealer opens on Monday. Ed Roy Collins wrote: >Do the water pump bolts that go into the timing chain cover come out? I was >replacing my water pump and one of the bolts broke. They are the 4 headless >bolts that screw into the timing chain cover. The ons you fasten the water >pump onto with nuts. Mine broke off with about a 1/4 inch sticking out of >the timing chain cover. Its too small to remove by locking 2 nuts back to >back on it. Since the bolts are headless you can just unscrew them with a >socket or anything. I tried to unscrew it by clamping down on it with >vise-grips but I could not get enough grip. The bolt didnt seem to move at >all and the vise-grips just slipped around. I was wondering if anyone has >ever had a similar problem. I guess just reassurance that the bolts do in >fact come out would be enough. In case you are not sure what I am talking >about it is the bolts that hold the water pump on as seen in figure 19 on >page 170-11 in the Bentley. Has anyone ever had one of these bolts break >before? How hard is it to drill and tap those if it comes down to it? It >seems like anytime you work on a car you end up replacing more than just the >parts you intended. I ran out of time yesterday working on this so I >figured I would ask the list for advice before I get the drill out. Thanks > >Roy Collins >96 328i almost with a new water pump > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 16:56:42 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <misc> new 5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just saw my first new 5-series rolling down the highway. My God, is this thing HIDEOUS. Looks like some abomination from Peugot or something. WTF. - k ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 18:42:55 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: E30 ball joints Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> How bad can these get and still be driven for oh, lets say 100 miles? Just today I picked up a clunk when stopping at lights. No clunk on brake application, only when the car settled after stopping. Since I was swapping out the snows today I was able to do a little inspection. Driver side lower ball joint has some front to back play (as in about 1/8 inch. I can see the joint shift and the boot move). I am replacing the control arms this weekend, but I still have to get back and forth to work for the week (4 miles each way). Think it will hold up or is it about to fall apart? The strange thing is that the steering is stable even at highway speeds. No vibration or wandering... -- Joe, new to ball joints that clunk... -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 23:10:09 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> climate control cuts out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/27/04 2:46 AM, "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Earlier pleas for help with E36 digital climate control backlighting were in > error... turns out the whole thing intermittently cuts in and out. > If anybody has any BTDTs, I'd be terribly grateful. Is this a wiring problem? > Some issue with the control unit? Or is it just the head? I'm thinking this > could be a real b*tch to debug, so if anybody has any experience with this, > please do share. I'm going to re-seat everything tomorrow, but somehow I have > to believe something is on the way out. It's a common fault, and your symptoms are classic. Easy, although not dirt cheap, to fix. You'll be needing a new electronic climate control head unit, about $230 or so discounted. It's simple to replace, although you do have to transfer some odds and ends from the old unit. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 23:11:38 -0500 From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Off-topic ...IX AWD parts needed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is the car an automatic or a manual? I've got a few bits from an 89 auto iX that I parted out including a good transfer case, but it would useless in a manual tranny car. --Jeff > -----Original Message----- > From: BMWBits [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 8:51 PM > To: 2002digest; E21 Digest; E9coupes BMW; Patzer, Dan Q; Senior Six > Digest; Sixer coupe Group; Uucdigest > Subject: [UUC] Off-topic ...IX AWD parts needed > > Friend here in mid-south Tenn bought his son an 89 or so 325IX for a > bargain price ...and the bargain has bit his butt ...the usual IX > problii with parts wearing out in the AWD transfer box leading to > spenderacious noises . > So all you 'pick a parters ' and fellow cognoscentii ......do you know > of such a beast that may have suffered terminal impact or cancer but > still has its running/walking/crawling gear intact ?? ..Or the > appropriate transfer box castings etc to make his loud noises go away ?? > If said vehicle or parts are within a days drive (or so ) of Nashville > so much the better . He has a collection of dead presidents pictures > (all in green ink ) to offer in trade ... > Emails off digest please > > Bill & Shirley Proud > Seattle Summers , Tennessee Winters . > Long Commute between , > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
