The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 226 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: holding the strut shaft, removing the nut
Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
e36 m3 tranny problem
E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
A/C Conversion how to.
Re: Sports Suspension differences between '01 and current
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 10:20:32 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: holding the strut shaft, removing the nut
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Re: [UUC] holding the strut shaft was:I screwed up....:
An alternative to vice-gripping the shaft is, and shade tree way to
change springs and struts, is:
To make the locknut easier to remove, loosen the nuts before
jacking up the car so you have the car's weight loading the shaft
against the upper strut mount. Then when you jack up the car, the
springs will unload gradually. With the car jacked up and the strut
shaft retracted, there's room to remove the freed up spring. Depending
on model, you have to 'unscrew' the spring coils from the retracted
strut shaft end.
To make tightening the new nut easier, lower the car onto the
wheels before tightening the nuts past their plastic lockring.
If the nut is still sticking on either removal or installation, torch
the plastic lockring until it becomes tacky Then it will turn off or on
easier.
For reassembly, if you're reinstalling stock or some aftermarket
springs, compress the spring in a compressor and use at least six coat
hangers or 1/2"+ wide zip ties (Fry's sells them) to wrap the spring
coils tight. This pre-loaded spring will be short enough so you can put
it in place on the strut's spring perch after installing the strut to
the control arm, and then extend the strut shaft up through the hole in
the upper strut mount to get the nut started on it. Next, unload the
spring by cutting the hanger wires or zip ties and pull them out. If
you're keeping the rubber spring perches, spray silicone on the rubber
to help the hanger wire or cut zip ties pull out easier.
Thanks for this method to an old friend Bruce Lazaar, who departed
us in 1986 but imparted me with his knowledge about working on BMWs
until then.
Barry
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:41:44 -0400
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian,
You're not the first person to learn from a mistake, so don't think
twice! Most folks would never attempt this sort of task so consider it
part of the reason folks pay a pro to do things they are not comfortable
with trying. Now that you've learned what not to do, it's worth the
experience!
I think some previous posts sum up your options for repair of the
damaged strut pretty well.
For the opposite side your options instead of using vice grips include
but are not limited to:
Using as impact wrench of some sort either electric or air. Buy, rent,
borrow, steal to obtain one.
Beg the guys at AutoZone/Murray's/your favorite shop to swap them for
you. This part usually involves bribery with cash, pizza, beer, etc.
If you MUST use some sort of shaft grip, I'd cut up some rubber pieces
(from an old bicycle tube or something?) and wrap tightly around a clean
damper shaft. This will help provide grip and protection from the teeth
of the pliers/vice-grip/pipe wrench/etc.
Chet Dawes
> @#*&!% I screwed up....
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:46:13 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: @#*&!% I screwed up....
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Well, my stupidity finally got the best of me, and I
> discovered after I had installed my left strut
> tonight, that while trying to hold the shaft of my new
> Bilstein sport shock to tighten the strut shaft top
> nut, I put a couple gouges in the shaft somewhat close
> to the seal on the strut (was using a doubled up old
> sock and some vice grips....please flame away, I
> deserve it). Short of buying a brand new one, the
> wait for it, and all the work to take it out and
> replace it, what could I do that would be safe and
> won't wreck the seal (or am I completely screwed no
> matter what?) I don't doubt I'll have to disassemble
> it all to get good enough access to the shaft, but
> should I file down the rough spots with some sandpaper
> or something?
>
> Please help!! I could cry... :(
>
> Ridiculously embarrassed and feeling more so stupid,
> Brian
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 11:53:15 -0700
From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian,
In the future use either soft copper, aluminum or brass instead of the
sock. You'll get better grip and no divots in the shaft.
BTW these are likely inverted shocks, so the seal at the top is for dirt
only.
Peter
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:06:19 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: @#*&!% I screwed up....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"BTW these are likely inverted shocks, so the seal at the top is for dirt
only."
Good point - long term impact is likely negligible if you can keep the seal
decent shape.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 16:25:36 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: e36 m3 tranny problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm helping a friend with has a 98 M3/4 manual with 100k. He's complaining that second
gear "sometimes" pops out when cold. I've already replaced the fluid with D4 ATF, but
the problem persists. IIRC, there was a problem with detents on this tranny, but I
can't find the site.
Anyone know about this problem? Any insights?
Thanks,
Dennis Jeong
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 18:26:51 -0400
From: "Barbara Zmiewski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi,
Our E28 M5 has bee experiencing an odd problem. It starts up fine and you
drive off. About 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road the engine just cuts out.
All electrical seems to be working. The started a few weeks ago and since
then is happening more frequently. The car will restart fine and then be ok
for the rest of whatever trip you might be taking.(even several hundred
miles) . This seems to happen with the a/c on but as its been hot the car
has not been driven without a/c so not sure if that is a factor. No other
problem signs, temperature fine, etc...
One- any ideas on what would cause this?
Two - Any recommendations for service in Charlottesville, VA? I know there
is a BMW dealership there but if anyone knows of a great independent shop
all the better. The car is out of town for an extended trip and far from our
usual cadre of resources.
Thanks!
Barb and Mark Zmiewski
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 19:45:58 -0400
From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi Barb,
Blueridge Motor Works (434.295.5269) is a good, possibly great,
independent BMW shop in Charlottesville. They're on River Road, off Rt
250, not far from the dealer.
HTH,
Marty
Barbara Zmiewski wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Our E28 M5 has bee experiencing an odd problem. It starts up fine and you
>drive off. About 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road the engine just cuts out.
>All electrical seems to be working. The started a few weeks ago and since
>then is happening more frequently. The car will restart fine and then be ok
>for the rest of whatever trip you might be taking.(even several hundred
>miles) . This seems to happen with the a/c on but as its been hot the car
>has not been driven without a/c so not sure if that is a factor. No other
>problem signs, temperature fine, etc...
>
>One- any ideas on what would cause this?
>
>Two - Any recommendations for service in Charlottesville, VA? I know there
>is a BMW dealership there but if anyone knows of a great independent shop
>all the better. The car is out of town for an extended trip and far from our
>usual cadre of resources.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Barb and Mark Zmiewski
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 18:16:56 -0500
From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'd check the main and fuel pump relays in the glove box; it could be
one of those if they are old. It could also be a crank position sensor
going bad or the infamous bad solder joint on the DME transistor. I
think the heat would exacerbate problems with any of those items, though
having the car run OK after a single cut-out is odd.
I'm sure someone on here can recommend a shop near you. Good luck!
Malcolm
'88 M5
'98 328i
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barbara Zmiewski
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 5:27 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [UUC] E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA
Hi,
Our E28 M5 has bee experiencing an odd problem. It starts up fine and
you
drive off. About 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road the engine just cuts
out.
All electrical seems to be working. The started a few weeks ago and
since
then is happening more frequently. The car will restart fine and then
be ok
for the rest of whatever trip you might be taking.(even several hundred
miles) . This seems to happen with the a/c on but as its been hot the
car
has not been driven without a/c so not sure if that is a factor. No
other
problem signs, temperature fine, etc...
One- any ideas on what would cause this?
Two - Any recommendations for service in Charlottesville, VA? I know
there
is a BMW dealership there but if anyone knows of a great independent
shop
all the better. The car is out of town for an extended trip and far from
our
usual cadre of resources.
Thanks!
Barb and Mark Zmiewski
Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:36:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
After some thought, before I decided to bite the
bullet and buy a new shock, I tried giving BavAuto a
call to see if they knew of something I could do,
since I bought the set originally from them (hoping
that _maybe_ I'd get the slim chance that they would
say "oh just send it back to us, and we'll send you a
new one"). I asked the salesman, and he started
questioning me about how bad it was...maybe to see if
they could send it back to the manufacturer as
defective(?). I said that they weren't gigantic
gouges but that they could possibly shorten the life
of the shock. He said he didn't know what to do, but
to give Bilstein a call and maybe they could do
something. I got their contact information, and
called them up. Talked to a guy in the warranty
department, who said he'd transfer me to sales to see
if they could do anything. I soon got a hold of
someone in sales, told him my predicament, and he
sounded like he was treating me as stupid; he
instantly said that I'd have to buy a new one. Ouch.
I asked if there was anything they could do for me,
and he said I'd have to contact a distributor. So, I
called BavAuto back again, told the story to someone
else again, and asked if there was anything they could
do for me discount-wise. I asked if possibly I could
get it shipped for free, and he said sure...
He was on the computer, and after several seconds he
comes back with "I can get you one for $100 plus $11
shipping". Sounded good enough for me, so I went
ahead and ordered it. Almost felt like I could have
gotten it for cheaper, because he said it so fast.
I do really hate to have to spend that money for a new
shock knowing that I could fix the one I have now and
have it be fairly usable, but do you all think I made
a good decision? I was thinking about it, and if I
just tried to fix the shock now and put it in, it may
end up failing prematurely, and then I'd have to
replace BOTH shocks AGAIN in a year or two -- I
wouldn't feel right just replacing one later; I would
feel "uneven" even if the old shock that would stay on
the car was still in pretty good shape. I think $100
now is a better value than $300 for a full pair of new
shocks later.
Anyone think I should have just fixed and forgotten?
On a side note, anyone want to buy an installed but
not used driver's side Bilstein Sport shock with some
small gouges on the shaft? I'll sell it cheap! :-P
Thanks again,
Brian
93 325
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:11:41 -0400
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian, I would have used it with no issues. The seal you see is only a
dust seal, there is no fluid inside the housing and the shock is
inverted, so you didn't scratch the cylinder that has a high pressure
seal etc.
Hard to explain without drawing a picture. But the cylinder you see is
basically the housing of the actual shock. The real shock rod is
smaller, located inside of the bigger cylinder and the exposed shaft
part is attached to the bottom of the strut. You could basically
scratch the whole outside of the larger, exposed cylinder without any
issues as to performance of the shock nor would ANY fluid leak out.
Years down the road, dust and sand might start to become issues but with
scratches like you described, probably not a problem. Anyway you can
take a picture and email?
Look at the diagram on the page below, you will see that you scratched
the outer tube right? It will not affect performance and should not
affect durability of the shock. Smooth the scratches the best you can
so the dust seal works then happy motoring. If the scratches are
really bad, they possibly could affect the movement of the larger shaft,
which uses the strut body for support, but those would have be some bad
scratches.
http://www.bilstein.com/html/performance/patentedperformance.htm
Mike
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz
-> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:37 PM
-> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Subject: Re: [UUC] @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
->
->
-> After some thought, before I decided to bite the
-> bullet and buy a new shock, I tried giving BavAuto a
-> call to see if they knew of something I could do,
-> since I bought the set originally from them (hoping
-> that _maybe_ I'd get the slim chance that they would
-> say "oh just send it back to us, and we'll send you a
-> new one"). I asked the salesman, and he started
-> questioning me about how bad it was...maybe to see if
-> they could send it back to the manufacturer as
-> defective(?). I said that they weren't gigantic
-> gouges but that they could possibly shorten the life
-> of the shock. He said he didn't know what to do, but
-> to give Bilstein a call and maybe they could do
-> something. I got their contact information, and
-> called them up. Talked to a guy in the warranty
-> department, who said he'd transfer me to sales to see
-> if they could do anything. I soon got a hold of
-> someone in sales, told him my predicament, and he
-> sounded like he was treating me as stupid; he
-> instantly said that I'd have to buy a new one. Ouch.
-> I asked if there was anything they could do for me,
-> and he said I'd have to contact a distributor. So, I
-> called BavAuto back again, told the story to someone
-> else again, and asked if there was anything they could
-> do for me discount-wise. I asked if possibly I could
-> get it shipped for free, and he said sure...
->
-> He was on the computer, and after several seconds he
-> comes back with "I can get you one for $100 plus $11
-> shipping". Sounded good enough for me, so I went
-> ahead and ordered it. Almost felt like I could have
-> gotten it for cheaper, because he said it so fast.
->
-> I do really hate to have to spend that money for a new
-> shock knowing that I could fix the one I have now and
-> have it be fairly usable, but do you all think I made
-> a good decision? I was thinking about it, and if I
-> just tried to fix the shock now and put it in, it may
-> end up failing prematurely, and then I'd have to
-> replace BOTH shocks AGAIN in a year or two -- I
-> wouldn't feel right just replacing one later; I would
-> feel "uneven" even if the old shock that would stay on
-> the car was still in pretty good shape. I think $100
-> now is a better value than $300 for a full pair of new
-> shocks later.
->
-> Anyone think I should have just fixed and forgotten?
->
-> On a side note, anyone want to buy an installed but
-> not used driver's side Bilstein Sport shock with some
-> small gouges on the shaft? I'll sell it cheap! :-P
->
-> Thanks again,
-> Brian
-> 93 325
->
->
->
->
-> __________________________________
-> Do you Yahoo!?
-> Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 .
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 22:09:47 -0400
From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Recently I bought a set of used Bilsteins and the previous owner had gouged
the cylinders the same way you describe. After taking them apart to cut the
internal bumpstops, I found that they look exactly like the link below
shows. The large cylinder is not the one that goes into the hydraulic
insert. I just took off all the burrs with a sharpening stone, then finished
with some 1500 grit sandpaper, then polishing compound. The divots were
still there, but there were no burrs to cut up the seal. I think they will
be fine.
MikeG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Brian, I would have used it with no issues. The seal you see is only a
> dust seal, there is no fluid inside the housing and the shock is
> inverted, so you didn't scratch the cylinder that has a high pressure
> seal etc.
>
> Hard to explain without drawing a picture. But the cylinder you see is
> basically the housing of the actual shock. The real shock rod is
> smaller, located inside of the bigger cylinder and the exposed shaft
> part is attached to the bottom of the strut.
http://www.bilstein.com/html/performance/patentedperformance.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:10:58 -0400
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED];, [EMAIL PROTECTED];,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: A/C Conversion how to.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Well I just rebuilt the A/C system in my British Racing Green '88 e32
735i. I had the system evaced and recharged for $150 at the beginning
of the season.. the compresser quickly puked and wasted my cash..
I bought a conversion set of gage hoses for my gage set, and decided to
figure out how to do it myself, as I have 4 shitboxes and A/C is a big rip
if you pay someone to deal with it. It isn't hard, there is a good Haynes
manual on the subject.
I installed a Sanden HD7 compressor, using a bracket I got from from
Mesa. Mesa seems to be a great outfit! They sell the compressor and kit
for $400.. a BMW Behr unit is $750 or $400 for a who knows how well rebuilt
unit
I found the compressor at a surplus outfit, on line for $150 with shipping,
the bracket was $140 at Mesa. Jim at Mesa said he thought it was
overpriced, and discounted it $20.00. I thought for the machining and
casting involved it wasn't a bad deal. It came with ends for the hose and a
belt that didn't fit, but the bracket was a nice aluminum pad, machined to
fit, and the adjusters and bolts all fit, so I wasn't too tweaked about $50
for hose ends and a belt. I bought a $70 16" aux fan to replace the last
cheap fan that I had replaced the last cheap fan with..262 k miles is a lot
of miles, and a new BMW fan was $350..you get what you pay for..sorta.. I
also used a new dryer from Bavarian, and a new r134 switch..about $100 thru
my BMW dealer who supplies Bavarian. It looks as though the total parts
bill was about $500.00 Not cheap, but my Pa- in law just dropped 8 bills
getting a new compressor on his Olds, so I guess it ain't my father's
oldsmobile.
The Douchenozzle from Ebay where I bought the air-vac pump..(go to harbor
freight, I think that is where he is getting them) hasn't managed to ship
me my pump yet,(3 weeks) and I was getting tired of waiting three weeks,
and patience isn't my thing!
My Bro in law..a walking Swiss army knife kind of guy, said.. "oh why
didn't you ask me I have a vac pump. go ahead and take it apart, mess with
it, use it" It would only pull 20 in hg. I took it apart, replumbed it to
no avail. I discovered that if you poured Marine gear oil down the intake,
it would pull 29" until it heated up, so I managed to evac the system
enough to recharge it, I kept pulling it down intermittently, then shut off
the gage set when it had 29" of vac.
Water boils at 75f at 29" of vacuum, so this is how you get moisture out of
the system.
I figured that since it was all of $20 of refrigerant...I could always
redo it when (if) the Air Vac shows up if there is a problem. There
doesn't seem to be one,I'm running 40 lbs low side, 225 high, which I think
sounds about right. I did notice that the compressor doesn't seem to
cycle, it runs continuously, but a couple of switches were eliminated in
the conversion, one on the dryer, and one on the Bosh/Behr compressor, so I
am not sure what this all means.
You use about 75% of weight of r-134 that you need with r-12. It took (5)
12 oz cans to get it about right by weight. They are $4 at Wal Mart. You
soak the cans in hot water while you dump the refrigerant in with the can
upside down. This raises the temperature and pressure enough so that the
can will empty into the system with the engine off. You put the last can
in with the engine running.
So the bottom line, about 43 degrees at the vents at idle, down as low as
29 (uh-oh?) revved with low fan.
Too cool!!!
Now a quick blurb for those of you that want to just get your r134 low
charged system running. Take off the low side (small fitting, blue) cover,
take a screwdriver and push down the schrader valve core. If the system
spits refrigerant at you, you are in luck.
If not take it to the garage, or get a vacuum pump and pull the system down
and see if it will hold a vacuum for 10 minutes or so.. If it will, vacuum
it for 1/2 hour, and fill it like I just described. If not, you have a
leak. The evaporator and condenser are suspect here, you can get it
charged and put in dye that shows up with UV to find the leak, or just
recharge with a can and use a leak tester or just listen. If it is a slow
leaker, buy a can of oil-dye at Wal mart and put that in, then take it
somewhere they have a UV light and yellow glasses (A/C shop)
If it spits refrigerant, go to Wal mart, and buy a refill kit with a gage,
and keep adding cans of refrigerant soaking them in hot water, until you
get about 30-50 psig on the low side with the engine running. You may need
to add a can or two with the car off to raise the pressure enough to get
the compressor clutch to kick in. There is a low pressure switch that cuts
out the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant. This is frequently
all that is wrong with most of the systems. On GM's you can jumper the low
pressure switch with a paper clip to get the clutch to kick. I bet you
could do it on the bimmer too, but there are two switches.
I also did a quick rebuild on a sticky front brake caliper while I had the
rig in the air. You can get rebuild kits for $20 at BMW.
Keep cool!
Reverend Dave
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 21:57:07 -0400
From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sports Suspension differences between '01 and current
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
If you have more than about 40K miles, the shocks are shot. Get a set of
Bilsteins or Konis on the car, and you will be right back on track. With
stock springs, either will tighten up the suspension so that it will seem
better than a new car. Put new rear shock mounts and Z3 reinforcement plates
at the same time.
MikeG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ziv Gillat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 9:37 PM
Subject: [UUC] Sports Suspension differences between '01 and current
> Hi,
>
> I have an 01 330Ci with the Sports package. I love it.
> This weekend, I drove a friend's 04 325CiC. It felt crispier, and the
> suspension felt even tighter then my 330.
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages)
**********
