The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 244 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: OT: Any a/c guys out there??? Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Re: <E36> Turn the key and the (ABS and ASC) light Found the Wheel Bearing Tools suggestions for loosening torx bolts Re: suggestions for loosening torx bolts Re: suggestions for loosening torx bolts FW: NO Massachusetts Emission Testing <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Do I need a new clutch (e36 M3)?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 10:38:51 -0500 From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: OT: Any a/c guys out there??? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> That's exactly what I observed, the compressor kicked off, won't work, high limit switch kills it. At idle the pressure climbed to the high limit and cut out the compressor. The point being that the performance of the system is very sensitive to how much air is going across the condenser. Start down the highway, and air moves across the condenser and she cools. If the pressure has reached a peak high there will be more really cold air for awhile but of course the system eventually has to reach a balance that it can maintain indefinitely. That wont be with the pressure at 450 PSI or something like that. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ed MacVaugh Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 10:22 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] OT: Any a/c guys out there??? I have observed the reverse. When the auxiliary fan resistor blows on an E30, the A/C won't work at idle (due to high limit switch) and when he car is moving through the air, the pressure drops enough for really cold air to flow from the vents. Ed Sam Drake wrote: >I thought I understood the principles of air conditioning well enough to not >be surprised by most things that occur but I was sure surprised one day >when I had my gages hooked up. I unplugged the auxiliary fan just to see >what happens. Reading was about 230 high side but when I unplugged the fan >the pressure immediately started climbing and in about 10 seconds hit 400 >then the compressor kicked off. My high side cutout out is 400 but some >r143a systems are higher but that is beside the point. I had thought that >the effect wouldn't be so immediate and the rise would be more gradual. I >would have kept the condenser cleaner on some past cars if I had known how >precisely the performance is affected by the amount of air making its way >across the coils. > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 15:16:05 -0400 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've been contemplating upgrading the headlights on my '96 M3 too, soon. Seems the OEM (ZKW) Euro headlight assemblies are a good way to go? I've seen them at various purveyors of BMW goodies for different prices. I'm assuming they are all the same parts so is it best to go for lowest price or maybe someone with an exisiting relationship? Is it a good assumption that if the assemblies are ZKW then they really are the same and the price differences are just different costs/markup, etc? I'm only looking at the basic OEM parts, not the ones with added DDE/'Angel Eyes' rings which I don't think I have a need for. For example BavAuto has them for $450, BMP charges $396 and um-nitza sells them for $360 ($405 w/ PnP connectors and StonGard). I hadn't heard of um-nitza but saw them mentioned on some of the bmw fora - any comments, good or bad, about them? They also have the cheap DEPO knockoffs (as seen on eBay) for $209, although personally I don't think I'd consider those. I couldn't find any headlights at Eurosport High Performance. Are the HID kits a worthwhile/viable option for an E36? I've seen comments that since they're non-levelling, unlike newer models which come w/ HID, they can blind oncoming drivers. I live in a pretty hilly area so that might be more of a factor here than for someone in a flat area. Marty Jim Bassett wrote: > At 08:42 PM 6/23/04, [EMAIL PROTECTED] talked about: > >> The headlights on my '99 M3 are so poor that after driving a late >> model BMW w/ real lights it's now obvious that I have to upgrade my >> lights. What do those of you that have already done this recommend >> w/o breaking the bank? I'm confused by all of the "Angel Eyes", Euro, >> etc., lighting systems on the market. I just want better lighting for >> a reasonable cost. Any help would be appreciated greatly. > > > Best upgrade, IMO, is the Euro Ellipsoid headlights. Several vendors > sell these sets, I usually recommend Eurosport High Performance - the > folks that handle all the JimC stuff. When I bought mine, the kit came > with high-temp wiring that you could splice into the headlight > assemblies in case you wanted to run 100W bulbs (standard are 55W) and > the uprated fuses needed. > > It's been a few years since I upgraded mine, but cost is probably > ~$350-$400. Well worth it, as these light - even at 55W - are MUCH > better than the stock N.A. light. I installed them on my previous '96 > 328is as well as the current '98 M3. > > Cheers, > > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 12:54:38 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:16 PM 6/24/04, Marty Fraiser talked about: >I'm assuming they are all the same parts so is it best to go for lowest >price or maybe someone with an exisiting relationship? There are different manufacturers of these lights AFAIK, so ZKW aren't the only ones. Shopping on price is NOT always the best; shopping from a reputable vendor or one with whom you have done business in the past is a good idea IMO, even if the price is slightly higher. >Is it a good assumption that if the assemblies are ZKW then they really >are the same and the price differences are just different costs/markup, etc? Probably, but it can be what's included. You'll need different connectors, so are they included? And are they easy to install? That's just one example. >For example BavAuto has them for $450, BMP charges $396 and um-nitza sells >them for $360 ($405 w/ PnP connectors and StonGard). I hadn't heard of >um-nitza but saw them mentioned on some of the bmw fora - any comments, >good or bad, about them? I've purchased a one-touch sunroof module from um-nitza, very satisfied. I'd say any of those would be good choices. >I couldn't find any headlights at Eurosport High Performance. Give them a call; it may be that they don't carry them anymore. But it would be worth a 2 minute phone call to find out. Like I said, I bought mine ~5 years ago, so I'm sure a lot has changed. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 18:00:01 -0400 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jim, I agree and thanks for the response. BTW, I think Hella and Bosch were the other OE manufacturers. Cheers Jim Bassett wrote: > At 12:16 PM 6/24/04, Marty Fraiser talked about: > >> I'm assuming they are all the same parts so is it best to go for >> lowest price or maybe someone with an exisiting relationship? > > > There are different manufacturers of these lights AFAIK, so ZKW aren't > the only ones. Shopping on price is NOT always the best; shopping from > a reputable vendor or one with whom you have done business in the past > is a good idea IMO, even if the price is slightly higher. > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 00:22:30 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Head light upgrade for E36 M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:16 PM 6/24/2004, Marty Fraiser wrote: >them for $360 ($405 w/ PnP connectors and StonGard). Plug and Play connectors for the Euro headlights are pretty easy to make. The hard part to find are the headlight connectors that plug straight into the stock American headlight wiring. I couldn't source any, so I ended up scrounging some burned out 9005 and 9006 bulbs, and taking them apart until all I had left were the connectors. Since the wiring is some sort of heat resistant stuff, solder wouldn't stick to it, so I had to use a torch to put on a thin layer of silver brazing compound. Then, I could solder wires to the connectors, insulate with heat shrink tubing, seal it up with JB Weld and silicone caulk. Put the Euro connector on the other end of the wires, and I was all done. Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 13:17:42 -0700 (PDT) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Turn the key and the (ABS and ASC) light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This has been happening to mine, too, but I didn't respond because I didn't know what was wrong. Just heard back from my mechanic, and it was as I thought. Bad ABS speed sensor. Pretty cheap fix ($100 part, roughly). HTH, Neil --- Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 12:52 PM 6/12/04, Steve.Goldstein talked about: > >So I got into the silver chariot yesterday for the > grueling > >8-mile commute home and both the ABS and ASC lights > remained > >on. They have continued to do so through several > more on/off > >cycles today. Car is a 1999 323is, and yes, it's > an E36 - the > >coupes didn't change to E46 until MY2000. > > > >Any hints? Is this something a mere mortal has a > chance to > >fix or am I in for a visit to my favorite > independent? > > This happened on my M3. Turned out to be the brake > pedal travel sensor that > is located in the brake booster (big round object > behind the master cylinder). > > Get the repair kit: > 34 33 1 182 594 > > When you remove your old one, it will have a colored > plastic cap on the end > of the rod. Use the same cap from the repair kit > (kit comes with several > colored caps). > > Hope that helps, > > Jim Bassett > ---- > Hardware Engineer for hire > http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 13:27:01 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Found the Wheel Bearing Tools Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to everyone who responded with advice and suggestions. And especially a big thanks to Doug Street, who is shipping me his wheel bearing removal/installation tool set so that I can do my bearings this weekend. It is starting to look like the car will make it to O'Fest after all. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i waiting for bearings 1991 325iA had to go autocross Sunday instead of the '90 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 18:07:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: suggestions for loosening torx bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey all, After my whoopsie on a spirited mountain canyon run the other night in my E36 325, I banged up my left rear wheel and screwed up the outer CV joint. In my attempt to loosen the torx bolts that hold the axle to the differential so I can replace it, the small 'teeth' on the bolt have become bent and the socket no longer grips the bolt well enough to loosen the monstrously tight bolt. I know it's not supposed to be that tight, but I was unsuccessful trying to get the bolt off when it did have teeth -- so much so that with one wheel on the ground and this axle off the ground, the limited slip would, well, slip when I turned the bolt. I just gave it another shot a bit ago to loosen the bolt, but I just slipped right off and smashed my lip and face into the fender. :( I know impact tools would be helpful, but I don't have access to any, and the car is unable to move until this is fixed. Any other ideas? TIA, Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 21:20:26 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: suggestions for loosening torx bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, you need to take your time when removing those bolts. A properly seated socket will break the bolt before bending the "teeth". At this point, try hammering the socket all the way down to straighten the teeth somewhat. Maybe your socket is bad. Try a new one. Failing that, try vice grips but I doubt that will work. You will have to drill or cut the head off the bolt. Use a grit edged hacksaw. Gary Derian > Hey all, > After my whoopsie on a spirited mountain canyon run > the other night in my E36 325, I banged up my left > rear wheel and screwed up the outer CV joint. In my > attempt to loosen the torx bolts that hold the axle to > the differential so I can replace it, the small > 'teeth' on the bolt have become bent and the socket no > longer grips the bolt well enough to loosen the > monstrously tight bolt. I know it's not supposed to > be that tight, but I was unsuccessful trying to get > the bolt off when it did have teeth -- so much so that > with one wheel on the ground and this axle off the > ground, the limited slip would, well, slip when I > turned the bolt. I just gave it another shot a bit > ago to loosen the bolt, but I just slipped right off > and smashed my lip and face into the fender. :( > > I know impact tools would be helpful, but I don't have > access to any, and the car is unable to move until > this is fixed. Any other ideas? > > TIA, > Brian > 93 325 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 07:35:48 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: suggestions for loosening torx bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Also, make sure the socket is seated squarely on the bolt. Sounds like you weren't quite seated. I agree with Gary, Try Vice grips, but leave enough material to try to cut a solid slot for a BAS and a wrench...next option would be to drill it out, which is never fun. > On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 21:20:26 -0400, "Gary Derian" wrote: > > Brian, you need to take your time when removing those bolts. A properly > seated socket will break the bolt before bending the "teeth". At this > point, try hammering the socket all the way down to straighten the teeth > somewhat. Maybe your socket is bad. Try a new one. Failing that, try vice > grips but I doubt that will work. You will have to drill or cut the head > off the bolt. Use a grit edged hacksaw. > > Gary Derian > > Marc Plante [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:43:19 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FW: NO Massachusetts Emission Testing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Resending, bounced the first time.... -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Liu [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 10:37 PM To: BMW List; Ferrari List Subject: FW: NO Massachusetts Emission Testing Very interesting . . . vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Jason Andreas [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 9:16 PM To: 911/993/996 Subject: [911] NO Massachusetts Emission Testing With the state DEP decertifying Agbar Technologie's dyno equipment at the beginning of the month there is no longer any emissions testing in the state! (not positive for how long but they have 9 months to replace all the equipment) If you have a GT3RSR or CUP car now is the time to throw some plates on it and a bicycle squeeze horn (they're still checking for a working horn) and get yourself an inspection sticker. . ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 07:24:19 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I think this was covered a week or so ago but I unfortunately did not pay enough attention to the thread. What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid if necessary. Thanks. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 08:33:56 -0500 From: "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Do I need a new clutch (e36 M3)? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello All, I have a 1995 M3 (5spd) with about 85K miles on it. During the past few weeks, it's been harder to start the car moving smoothly from a stop...the clutch seems to 'grab' a lot more than it used to at the engagement point, causing a jerky start. I get a slightly less but similar jerky engagement on the 1-2 shift. If I really try to let the clutch out slowly, I can get a smooth start, but I never had to do that before. Additionally, we've had a lot of rain in the last few weeks and it's subtle, but I'd swear I can feel the rear wheels 'slipping' more than I ever remember them slipping when I'm going over a bump and the roads are wet. This could also be somewhat due to my original (and likely tired) suspension - new struts/shocks/rear trailer arm bushings are on order and will be installed this summer. I'm not the original owner, but I'm pretty sure it's the original clutch. Additionally, I did replace the slave cylinder about 8 months ago, but everything has been working well until the last couple of weeks. I was thinking maybe I should try to bleed the system?, but thought I would ask the panel of experts. Does this sound like a clutch starting to fail? Or something else? Thanks, Jeff ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
