The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 316 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Airbags and Insurance (was <E36> '94 325is steering Re: Airbags and Insurance (was <E36> '94 325is steering Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Re: [bmwuucdigest] E30 Airbag Re: E30 Airbag Re: E36 tranny options Re: E36 tranny options Re: Peake reader codes question Re: Softening your rubber(s) Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:26:35 -0400 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Airbags and Insurance (was <E36> '94 325is steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pretty simple, actually. When you insure your car they give you "credit" for safety items such as ABS, alarms, and airbags, mostly based on data from your VIN. It's logical to assume that if you remove or disable any of the items for which you receive a discount then your insurance company would want to be informed and adjust your premium accordingly. Conversely, given the cost of replacement airbags and their high theft rate, maybe you'd be entitled to a rate discount if your airbag was removed? Either way, I suppose you should just ask your agent to find out for you. Sort of like taking out a life insurance policy as a non-smoker who doesn't skydive only to take up smoking, jump from a plane for recreation and not have your chute open, leaving your family to find you've left a large loophole for your insurance company to deny your death claim. And no, I've never stayed at a Holiday Inn Express. -Phil >Ed MacVaugh wrote: > >I think this is a valuable thread. > >What if you changed the brand of tires? Manufacturer of wheels? >Headlight bulbs? Brake pedal covers? Differential ratio? Manufacturer of >brake fluid, pads or shoes? Installed a cell phone? Tinted the windows? > >Who would you report these changes to anyways? > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 10:10:05 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Airbags and Insurance (was <E36> '94 325is steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There are 209 million cars registered in the US. If every one of the those with an alarm, ABS or airbag fault called their agent, the phone system across the US would fail. I think you would be misrepresenting your situation if you renewed your policy without correcting the credit, but I don't think you need to call the agency when your ABS sensor gets crudded with road debris. If every other policy holder quit lying about the mileage they drive, my premiums would go down. Ed Phil Marx wrote: > Pretty simple, actually. When you insure your car they give you > "credit" for safety items such as ABS, alarms, and airbags, mostly > based on data from your VIN. It's logical to assume that if you remove > or disable any of the items for which you receive a discount then your > insurance company would want to be informed and adjust your premium > accordingly. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 07:16:17 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unless you completely drained the system I think you should be ok. When I rebuild my calipers and change brake lines I regularly have lots of air in the new lines ;-) But I never let the reservoir drain completely - I plug off the line. 1) you're probably hyper critical of the pedal feel cuz of the screw up. 2) until the pads bed in the pedal feel will feel off. Shouldn't take long for them to bed. The real question is how well does the car brake? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 6:20 AM To: BMW List Subject: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Ok, so I'm an idiot. I was helping a friend to changing the rotors and pads in his 2001 740i last night. I thought to shorten up the process, since we don't have a lift, by simultaneously flushing/bleeding the brakes while we were doing the changeover. RR, LR, RF, LF, in order. So we did the RR, then attached the Motive power bleeder, and flushed/bled the RR caliper. No problem. Then we did the LR, and we seemed to have a really difficult time compressing the piston back into the caliper. Hmmm. But we manage, no problem. Then we moved to the RF. As I remove the caliper from the bracket, and rest it, I notice that the dust boot seemed to be off the groove in the piston. Why is that, I wonder. Then I notice the piston is slowly moving OUT of the caliper. Then it completely pops out of the caliper, along with a gush of brake fluid. DOH!!!!!!!!! Being a complete imbecile, I neglected to de-pressurize the power bleeder. Ergo, it's as if someone were stepping on the brake pedal. The pressure forced the piston out entirely. Well, at least it didn't fall on the ground and score itself or anything like that. I cleaned it up, and after de-pressurizing the Motive, slid it back into the caliper and reattached the dust boot around it, properly. Cleaned everything up, replaced everything else, and bled it for quite awhile. Did the LF, then went for a drive to bed the brakes. Hmmm. Brakes very, very spongy. Dang. Came back, and re-bled all four wheels AGAIN. Didn't notice much air coming out of the RF, and hardly any from the others (a few nearly-microscopic bubbles, that's it). Double-dang. Brake pedal felt firmer, but still not as hard as it is in my other cars, though it may be comparable to my own 740. Should I just bleed it all again? Is there a different bleed technique if I've introduced air at the caliper? Has it moved up the system? Or is there something I've totally missed? Thanks! vty, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 11:17:45 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Marco. Yeah, I may be hyper critical. :-) The reservoir was never near empty - the Motive WAS plumbed in, after all. :-) The brakes fantastically (as usual). Did 6 stops from 80mph down to 10 mph (after warming the brakes up), in the wet, and the car stopped straight and true. Somewhat surprisingly, did not feel the ABS kick in, though I was braking hard. How long does it take for the brakes to "bed"? I've never encountered that before. vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marco Romani Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 10:16 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Unless you completely drained the system I think you should be ok. When I rebuild my calipers and change brake lines I regularly have lots of air in the new lines ;-) But I never let the reservoir drain completely - I plug off the line. 1) you're probably hyper critical of the pedal feel cuz of the screw up. 2) until the pads bed in the pedal feel will feel off. Shouldn't take long for them to bed. The real question is how well does the car brake? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 6:20 AM To: BMW List Subject: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Ok, so I'm an idiot. I was helping a friend to changing the rotors and pads in his 2001 740i last night. I thought to shorten up the process, since we don't have a lift, by simultaneously flushing/bleeding the brakes while we were doing the changeover. RR, LR, RF, LF, in order. So we did the RR, then attached the Motive power bleeder, and flushed/bled the RR caliper. No problem. Then we did the LR, and we seemed to have a really difficult time compressing the piston back into the caliper. Hmmm. But we manage, no problem. Then we moved to the RF. As I remove the caliper from the bracket, and rest it, I notice that the dust boot seemed to be off the groove in the piston. Why is that, I wonder. Then I notice the piston is slowly moving OUT of the caliper. Then it completely pops out of the caliper, along with a gush of brake fluid. DOH!!!!!!!!! Being a complete imbecile, I neglected to de-pressurize the power bleeder. Ergo, it's as if someone were stepping on the brake pedal. The pressure forced the piston out entirely. Well, at least it didn't fall on the ground and score itself or anything like that. I cleaned it up, and after de-pressurizing the Motive, slid it back into the caliper and reattached the dust boot around it, properly. Cleaned everything up, replaced everything else, and bled it for quite awhile. Did the LF, then went for a drive to bed the brakes. Hmmm. Brakes very, very spongy. Dang. Came back, and re-bled all four wheels AGAIN. Didn't notice much air coming out of the RF, and hardly any from the others (a few nearly-microscopic bubbles, that's it). Double-dang. Brake pedal felt firmer, but still not as hard as it is in my other cars, though it may be comparable to my own 740. Should I just bleed it all again? Is there a different bleed technique if I've introduced air at the caliper? Has it moved up the system? Or is there something I've totally missed? Thanks! vty, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 08:33:41 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Every manufacturer has a slightly different process for bedding in the pads/rotors. IIRC The Hawks I bought for my truck say 4-5 medium stops from 35-40mph and, let them cool and then 2-3 hard stops from 50-60 and then you're good to go. Some say they are pre-bedded, but I've always found that after a short initial period brake pedal feel tends to improve even with street pads. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=27 Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 8:18 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Thanks, Marco. Yeah, I may be hyper critical. :-) The reservoir was never near empty - the Motive WAS plumbed in, after all. :-) The brakes fantastically (as usual). Did 6 stops from 80mph down to 10 mph (after warming the brakes up), in the wet, and the car stopped straight and true. Somewhat surprisingly, did not feel the ABS kick in, though I was braking hard. How long does it take for the brakes to "bed"? I've never encountered that before. vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marco Romani Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 10:16 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Unless you completely drained the system I think you should be ok. When I rebuild my calipers and change brake lines I regularly have lots of air in the new lines ;-) But I never let the reservoir drain completely - I plug off the line. 1) you're probably hyper critical of the pedal feel cuz of the screw up. 2) until the pads bed in the pedal feel will feel off. Shouldn't take long for them to bed. The real question is how well does the car brake? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 6:20 AM To: BMW List Subject: [UUC] Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Ok, so I'm an idiot. I was helping a friend to changing the rotors and pads in his 2001 740i last night. I thought to shorten up the process, since we don't have a lift, by simultaneously flushing/bleeding the brakes while we were doing the changeover. RR, LR, RF, LF, in order. So we did the RR, then attached the Motive power bleeder, and flushed/bled the RR caliper. No problem. Then we did the LR, and we seemed to have a really difficult time compressing the piston back into the caliper. Hmmm. But we manage, no problem. Then we moved to the RF. As I remove the caliper from the bracket, and rest it, I notice that the dust boot seemed to be off the groove in the piston. Why is that, I wonder. Then I notice the piston is slowly moving OUT of the caliper. Then it completely pops out of the caliper, along with a gush of brake fluid. DOH!!!!!!!!! Being a complete imbecile, I neglected to de-pressurize the power bleeder. Ergo, it's as if someone were stepping on the brake pedal. The pressure forced the piston out entirely. Well, at least it didn't fall on the ground and score itself or anything like that. I cleaned it up, and after de-pressurizing the Motive, slid it back into the caliper and reattached the dust boot around it, properly. Cleaned everything up, replaced everything else, and bled it for quite awhile. Did the LF, then went for a drive to bed the brakes. Hmmm. Brakes very, very spongy. Dang. Came back, and re-bled all four wheels AGAIN. Didn't notice much air coming out of the RF, and hardly any from the others (a few nearly-microscopic bubbles, that's it). Double-dang. Brake pedal felt firmer, but still not as hard as it is in my other cars, though it may be comparable to my own 740. Should I just bleed it all again? Is there a different bleed technique if I've introduced air at the caliper? Has it moved up the system? Or is there something I've totally missed? Thanks! vty, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:47:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There are two aspects to bedding brakes, one is to get the pad to conform to the waves in the rotor. This is especially important when new pads are installed on old rotors. The second aspect is baking out the volatiles to prevent outgassing and fade. Part one should be done at low temperature, part two requires high temperature. There is a large variability in brake size and engine power so there is a large variability in how hot the brakes get when performing x stops from y speed. Get them hot to the point of fade. I get on the freeway, shift to 3rd rear and run from 50 to 80 mph at full throttle, then brake hard while maintaining full throttle. At 50 I let up and accelerate back to 80. Gary Derian > > How long does it take for the brakes to "bed"? I've > never encountered that > before. > > vty, > > --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 10:16:16 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] E30 Airbag Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's been a while, but my recollection is that he took the seat out to replace a broken frame, and did NOT disconnect the battery. Went to move (push) the car and turned the key to unlock the settering wheel, which also turned on the ignition. At that point the light came on and has been on ever since. Based on Other Stuff I Have Read Somewhere On The Internet this is normal (Jenny?). My guess is that you hooked up the wiring on the replacment seat, which even though it does not have an airbag does have the seatbelt interlock wiring, which I would guess makes the proper connection (note lots of guesses in here). If you didn't hook anything up on the replacment seat then I'm confused too, because that means WE screwed up something else in the airbag wiring that we have yet to discover. Anyway - Jenny's answer was about what I expected so I'll be paying for a trip to the shop to get it reset (mom really likes the idea of a functioning airbag in the car!). Dave Swingle ------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:19:15 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Airbag Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, You have me worried, here. I'm driving my daughter's '90 (with airbag) with my '89 (no airbag) seats in it while hers are being recovered. The airbag light is working properly. Ed Dave Swingle wrote: >Quite a while ago we managed to set the airbag light on my son's 1990 E30. >(Turned on the ignition with the front seat out). So now the light flashes ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 12:14:14 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Airbag Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The fact that the light is flashing says that it's a Siemens control unit. (E30's had two styles of SRS). According to my code list, there is no fault for anything related to the seat. I also don't recall seat belt monitoring being part of these systems, but it's been a long time since I played with one. Dave, I have a reset tool for this system in my rental fleet, drop me an email if you'd like it. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- >It's been a while, but my recollection is that he took the seat out to > replace a broken frame, and did NOT disconnect the battery. Went to move > (push) the car and turned the key to unlock the settering wheel, which also > turned on the ignition. At that point the light came on and has been on ever > since. Based on Other Stuff I Have Read Somewhere On The Internet this is > normal (Jenny?). My guess is that you hooked up the wiring on the replacment > seat, which even though it does not have an airbag does have the seatbelt > interlock wiring, which I would guess makes the proper connection (note lots > of guesses in here). If you didn't hook anything up on the replacment seat > then I'm confused too, because that means WE screwed up something else in > the airbag wiring that we have yet to discover. > > Anyway - Jenny's answer was about what I expected so I'll be paying for a > trip to the shop to get it reset (mom really likes the idea of a functioning > airbag in the car!). > > Dave Swingle > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.736 / Virus Database: 490 - Release Date: 8/9/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 11:50:19 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 tranny options Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The trans ratios are close enough to your existing ones that you'll likely not be able to tell the difference. You'll need the drive shaft, cross member and all shifter components from the donor 328. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I'm looking to replace the transmission in my '94 325i. Every morning it > seems a little harder to shift into 3rd and 5th, plus I have the loss of > spring tension problem that many have experienced. Anyway, I have a > potential opportunity to get the transmission from an E36 328is. I know > this is a different transmission than mine, but will it bolt right up, and > are the ratios desirable in my car with a 3:15 rear end? > > Thanks, > > Chris B. > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.736 / Virus Database: 490 - Release Date: 8/9/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 12:02:02 -0400 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 tranny options Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Brett, great info. I really appreciate it. Chris B. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brett Anderson Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 11:50 AM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 tranny options The trans ratios are close enough to your existing ones that you'll likely not be able to tell the difference. You'll need the drive shaft, cross member and all shifter components from the donor 328. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I'm looking to replace the transmission in my '94 325i. Every morning it > seems a little harder to shift into 3rd and 5th, plus I have the loss of > spring tension problem that many have experienced. Anyway, I have a > potential opportunity to get the transmission from an E36 328is. I know > this is a different transmission than mine, but will it bolt right up, and > are the ratios desirable in my car with a 3:15 rear end? > > Thanks, > > Chris B. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 12:07:17 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Peake reader codes question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Additive mixture problems are at idle. You most likely have an air leak, probably from the intake gaskets. I'd suggest resealing the intake and replacing the cyclonic plate at the rear of the manifold. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I have 97' 540i/6sp. > > Recently read CPS code and replaced CPS. > Week later I got this: > > 061b Fuel Trim, QL additive Cyl 1-4 > 0623 Fuel Trim, QL additive Cyl 5-8 > > I have no idea on what does it mean.. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.736 / Virus Database: 490 - Release Date: 8/9/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 10:10:04 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Uucdigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Softening your rubber(s) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A quick poke around the web came up with this list of "authorized" Einszett Gummiplege dealers in the US. http://www.1z-usa.com/sys-tmpl/authorizeddealers/ And I found a good number of places to purchase on the web for about $5 (plus shipping, of course). If it's the same stuff (seems to be), could be some good alternatives to "gotcha by the family jewels" local dealerships. John 2000 328i - not-so-new looking door seals -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of JKerouac Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 12:37 PM To: BMWBits Cc: 2002digest; E21 Digest; E9coupes BMW; Senior Six Digest; Sixer coupe Group; Uucdigest; Angus Winskill Proud; Arthur E Wegweiser; Patzer, Dan Q Subject: Re: [UUC] Softening your rubber(s) Gummiphlege works. I git turned on to it by postings last fall and it took the spueekies away from the door mouldings on the E36 when raising and lowering moldings. I gave the hood, trunk and rest of the door moldings a coat of it, and after a few months they were restored to an almost as new suppleness. So I gave it a shot on one of the door side moldings to see if it woudl soak into that too, and it brought a bit of the original deeper black color back to the molding. Don't know what you're dealer's asking price is, but here its about $8.00 a tube on the marked up gotcha by the family jewels only game in town dealership parts department price list. Barry BMWBits wrote: >What has your experience been in keeping door seals , underhood seals >etc soft and supple ?? >BMW sells (or sold ?..rumor has it no longer available ?) stuff called >Gummiflege -alt spelling Gummipflege?- for supposedly keeping things >greased and tender . Anyone know what's in that stuff to make it worth >the dealers asking price ?? > >What prompts the question is my discovery recently of a 'Merican made >product that purportedly does pretty much the same thing BUT it has >silicone in it -note that "e" on the end ...much slippier stuff than >silicon! Called SIL-GLYDE made by American Grease Stick Co, Muskegon, >Mich 49443 with a copyright date on this 8oz tube of 1972. (Viva the >local flea market eh ?). Amongst all the virtues expounded on the tube >it states 'harmless to rubber' but in the fine print it >readeth..'observe usual prepaint procedures'..so that gives warning >that Silicone is forever and paint wont stick to it . See US Patent >3,036,002 for more details . > >So I tried it on two of doors on my rustfree 89 750il that has had its >share of sunshine here in the South .....seals weren't bad in any way >to start with ...man did that stuff dress them up in a hurry !! Hafta >wait a while to see if it soaks in at all , but it sure did make them >look nice !! > >So my question is ...is there silicone in BMWs stuff too ?? Or did I >just commit a cardinal sin ?? > >Bill Proud > >Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >_______________________________________________________________________ >___ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the >BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 09:33:59 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Brake bleeding idiot - air in brake system? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, Aug 13, 2004 at 09:19:46AM -0400, Dennis Liu wrote: > Being a complete imbecile, I neglected to de-pressurize the power bleeder. BTDT, stopped before disaster struck. :) *phew* -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
