The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 262 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Update: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
  Re: Update: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
  Re: OT: Winter Tire Question
  OT - MB mechanic
  <E30> broken rocker arm
  Re: <E30> broken rocker arm
  Re: <E30> broken rocker arm
  Re: Nokian tires
  Re: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
  Re: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q

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Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 15:43:23 -0400
From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Update: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The master service tech, Jason, from BMW called back...

They said that the TSBs that are issued are *NOT* problem, and they have to 
crack the case to figure out what it might be... The TSBs are for RWD cars only.

They already pulled the boot and checked under there...)
BMW will pay for the parts... right up to a new box, but labor will be ~$1600 
/13hrs.

I'm still not sure if they are yanking my ding-dong (still a technical term) 
b/c they said that the TSB referred to below is NOT relevant to a 4wd car... 
4WD cars have a different (smaller) tranny due to needing to stuff the x-fer 
box in there and the extra drive shafts...

The other sticking point is that BWM is willing to pay for parts now (with a 2 
yr warrenty on their work) 
They won't be so apt to payout later as we have 65K on the car, and powertrain 
warrenty went at 50...

Thanks (again) for any input!

-Jason
'86 951 "Sparky"  (still living in the barn)
'70 240Z "Dusty" (still living with my dad)
'97 Contour "Bambi" (still hunting venison)
'03 325xi "Daisy" (still slightly sticking in 5th)


> OK,
> I just dropped the (well my SO just dropped *her*) '03 325xi over at the 
> dealership and they called back.
> 
> The issue is with the manual shifter...
> when sitting in the driveway, when cold, the shifter 'sticks' towards 5th 
> gear (in neutral)... if nudged it springs back to center neutral.
> 
> The posts below confirmed what I though... 
> 
> When BMW called back, they said that it is *NOT* this issue, and they have to 
> crack the case to figure out what it might be...
> BMW will pay for the new box, but labor will be ~$1600.
> 
> Without speaking to tech yet (waiting for his call back), are they trying to 
> take me for a ride?  The reason I think they might be yanking my ding-dong 
> (technical term) is that they said that the TSB referred to below is NOT 
> relevant to a 4wd car... it has a different tranny.
> 
> (the problem is what I'd call slightly annoying... *IF* it does not get worse 
> or cause more damage in the future, I'd leave it as is (maybe change the 
> 'lifetime' tranny fill.)
> 
> Thanks for all the responses so far!
> 
> 
> -Jason
> '86 951 "Sparky"  (still living in the barn)
> '70 240Z "Dusty" (still living with my dad)
> '97 Contour "Bambi" (still hunting venison)
> '03 325xi "Daisy" (still slightly sticking in 5th)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Wed, August 30, 2006 8:27 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> > > Your transmission is suffering from a known problem with the
> > > shift detents, the little collection of springs and pins
> > > that is responsible for the springiness of the shifter.
> > >
> > > Easy fix... once you've dropped the transmission.  BMW has a
> > > repair kit and Technical Service Bulletin about this.
> > 
> > Just to expand on what Rob said, this is a VERY common issue. I had this 
> > problem on the 1998 M3 and had it repaired based on info from a Roundel 
> > article a few years back (before there was a TSB from BMW). Basically, 
> > there's a tolerance/binding issue with one of the sliding pins and is most 
> > noticeable when the transmission is cold.
> > 
> > Fix was done a couple of years ago, no problems since.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Jim Bassett
> > 1998 M3/4
> > 1993 325is #44 JP
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


-Jason
'86 951 "Sparky"
'70 240Z "Dusty"
'97 Contour "Bambi"
'03 325xi "Daisy"


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 21:27:17 -0400
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Update: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> The other sticking point is that BWM is willing to pay for parts now (with a 
> 2 yr warrenty on their work) 
> They won't be so apt to payout later as we have 65K on the car, and 
> powertrain warrenty went at 50...

They're sticking it to you.

BMW's published time to exchange a 5spd transmission in your car is 56 
fru.  That equates to 7 hours.

They are right that the service bulletin doesn't specifically relate to 
your car, but that doesn't mean it isn't the same problem.

Brett Anderson
KMS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 17:46:27 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 924/[EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: OT: Winter Tire Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Jason,

I have Dunlap WinterSports M3s on my bmw 323i. I like them. They even perform 
well at warm temps over 17'C. I do feel thier grip, esp on cold days from 5'C 
and colder - is very good for a snow tire. They ride well and have good 
steering response and are quiet fora snow tire. They do make more noise than my 
summer tires(Verdistein ZRs). I have had the Dunlaps on for two winters now - 
going on my third winter here in Germany.  I can only drive up to 190kph with 
them on.... but even at that speed they are good tires. I would rate them a 
seven 
on a one thru ten scale.  ADAC even rated them #2 when I bought them. 
Michelin Alpina Sports were #1, but they cost another €40 per tire. I do not 
regret 
the Dunlaps. 

As for the Blizzaks I have heard, time and time again - that they are scarry 
squishy at anything above 5'C.  A very greasy ride. 


Bottom line get the Dunlaps. 


I did look on ADACs website.  www.adac.de    

these are the top tires:  Die Ergebnisse im Detail:  
 
     
Dunlop SP Wintersport M 3    
Michelin Pilot Alpin Pa 2  
Continental ContiWinterContact TS 790    
Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip GW-3  
Pirelli W 240 Snowsport    
Bridgestone Blizzak LM 22  
 
I should say the test results vary for the size of tires. But any one of 
these tires(above) will do what you want. 



good luck
David


In a message dated 15.09.2006 16:03:22 Westeuropäische Sommerzeit, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Its cross-post day today... being time to shop for winter tires as my old 
Blizzak WS50s for the Bambi Tenderizer (Ford Countour) are more suitable for 
racing slicks than slick snow.

The question I have for the wisdom of the lists is this:
for a whole $6 less should I get the Dunlop Winter Sport M3s ($314/set)
or stick with the Blizzaks WS-50s for $320/set.

I'm currently driving ~100mi /day and about 90% is highway  
There are a few large hills on the highway.
the area is Northern NJ.

I'd prefer to give up ultimate traction (as the winters in NJ just aren't 
that bad) for a slightly sportier response (the WS-50s are *very* squishy, and 
can get 'entertaining' under 'brake-test' emergency-avoidence maneuvers...

Being Friday, I welcome all comments, questions, and esp. snarky remarks ;)

-Jason
'86 951 "Sparky"
'70 240Z "Dusty"
'97 Contour "Bambi"
'03 325xi "Daisy"


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 21:42:26 -0400
From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: OT - MB mechanic
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


All,

My friend drives a Mercedes and needs a decent shop in the North Boston 
area.  Can anyone recommend one???

Regards,

Clyde



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 23:02:04 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: <E30> broken rocker arm
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The number 6 intake rocker broke on my old M20 engine.  There doesn't 
appear to be any head damage.  I've been told it's possible to pull the 
rocker shaft out just enough to replace this rocker arm.

Wondering if anybody has done this.  It appears the belt needs to be 
removed to pull the shaft.  Is the shaft difficult to pull out?  Any 
special tools needed?  It also seems that all of the rockers need to be 
moved to the side of their respective valves to facilitate shaft 
removal; is this correct?

Any thoughts appreciated.  I may want to tackle this myself but will 
take it to my trusted mechanic if it's beyond my simple skills.

Clarence
West Bend, WI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 00:48:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com (bmw list)
Subject: Re: <E30> broken rocker arm
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>From Clarence
>
>The number 6 intake rocker broke on my old M20 engine.  There doesn't 
>appear to be any head damage.  I've been told it's possible to pull the 
>rocker shaft out just enough to replace this rocker arm.

It is possible but it may not be easy. I managed to replace my camshaft,
rocker shafts, and all the rocker arms in my M20 engine without pulling the
head. It is an adventure.

>Wondering if anybody has done this.  It appears the belt needs to be 
>removed to pull the shaft.  Is the shaft difficult to pull out?  Any 
>special tools needed?  It also seems that all of the rockers need to be 
>moved to the side of their respective valves to facilitate shaft 
>removal; is this correct?

The belt has to come off because the cam pulley has to come off. In my case
I had to pull the radiator and move the A/C condenser out of the way so I
could get the shafts out through the grill. If you are only moving the shaft
out enough to replace the number 6 intake rocker you may not have to move
things out of the way.

The rockers are located on the shaft with spring clips. The clips can be
pulled and the rockers pushed along the shaft as needed. If the clips are
pulled, they can stay where they are relative to the valves while the shaft
slides through them. If they are moved off to the side there will be no
tension on them which may make pushing the shaft through easier. Either way,
there is no problem moving them around.

The rocker shafts are locked in place with a locking clip/plate at each end.
Pull the plate out and in a perfect world the shaft will just slide out. I
ended up placing a piece of wood against the firewall and using wood bits,
sockets and what ever else I could find protecting the end of the shaft and
levering it forward. It works great up until the first support. At that
point I was able to grab hold of the far end of the shaft with some locking
pliers (I was replacing my shafts so I didn't worry about hurting them, but
if you choose carefully and clamp securely you can do minimal damage to the
shaft in an area that does not matter) and rock it back and forth while
pulling and levering the shaft forward. 

New shafts and/or rockers are just threaded on the shaft as it is threaded
through the supports. Get the notches lined up the right way, drop the
locking plates in place and replace the rubber plugs at the ends.

>Any thoughts appreciated.  I may want to tackle this myself but will 
>take it to my trusted mechanic if it's beyond my simple skills.

It should be straight forward enough as you aren't going that far with it.
You should also consider replacing the tensioner if needed, the water pump,
radiator hoses and whatever else is already off or easily accessible while
you are in here.

I replaced my camshaft, rocker shafts, rockers, spark plugs, radiator hoses,
thermostat, helicoiled a bolt hole, modified the hood hinges for easy
removal, and adjusted the valves in 14 hours with a helper. That time
includes the half hour wasted figuring out that I put the timing belt off by
two teeth and that is why things touched when I tried to walk the engine
over by hand and the hour spent getting some random stuff from the parts
store. There was quite of bit of time spent figuring out which bits of trim
to remove and how to jockey the engine up and down to get the shafts out the
front of the car. 

Since you are talking about moving one shaft about five inches it should
take much less time. Figure timing belt plus an hour or two.

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                Network Operations and Security
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                            Worcester Polytechnic Institute

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 22:00:08 -0700
From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmw list <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <E30> broken rocker arm
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Friday 15 September 2006 9:48 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >The number 6 intake rocker broke on my old M20 engine.  There doesn't
> >appear to be any head damage.  I've been told it's possible to pull the
> >rocker shaft out just enough to replace this rocker arm.

Yep...and its pretty easy to pull the shafts out with the head on the car. You 
need to pull the front cam gear, but that's easy enough, otherwise is a piece 
of cake if you are fairly familiar with the M20.

Dave T.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 00:07:18 -0400
From: "William Ballon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Nokian tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Group,

I've never left the list.  I'm happy to answer any Nokian tire questions
that you have. If I don't have the answer, I'll get one for you from
Nokian's tech support folks.
I have quite a lot of experience fitting Nokian tires to BMWs, since we've
sold Nokians for over ten years now.

Fire away.

Bill Ballon
Bill Ballon Automotive
Independent BMW Automobile Specialists
Nokian Tires 
www.billballonauto.com
>
> Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 11:30:23 -0500
> From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
> Subject: Re: Nokian tires
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Bill Ballon is a Nokia Tire dealer who used to be on this list. He may
chime in soon.
>
> Marc Plante
> E36 M3/4 74k
> Vienna, VA
>




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 10:14:34 -0400
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 9/15/06 5:37 PM, "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The issue is with the manual shifter...
> when sitting in the driveway, when cold, the shifter 'sticks' towards 5th gear
> (in neutral)... if nudged it springs back to center neutral.
> 
> The posts below confirmed what I though...
> 
> When BMW called back, they said that it is *NOT* this issue, and they have to
> crack the case to figure out what it might be...
> BMW will pay for the new box, but labor will be ~$1600.
> 
> Without speaking to tech yet (waiting for his call back), are they trying to
> take me for a ride?  The reason I think they might be yanking my ding-dong
> (technical term) is that they said that the TSB referred to below is NOT
> relevant to a 4wd car... it has a different tranny.

$1600 in shop hours to R&R the tranny? Sure, the 325xi's AWD must have a bit
more stuff to unbolt, but that seems rather stiff.

Neil
Fort Wayne, IN
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - Sterling Grey Metallic
05 Mini    - Cooper S with LSD



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 12:56:45 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: E46 325xi 5-speed tranny Q
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Reminds me of the only time I took one of my BMWs to a dealer for service. 
This was my wife's 525iT in which the transmission torque converter fails to 
lock up.  I thought it was covered by the extended warranty but due to a 
scheduling problem I had I was 2 weeks late.  $220 later they told me the 
torque converter was bad and they would warranty the part if I paid $1200 
labor to install it.  4 years later it still works fine, except for the 
lockup which I swear I'll get around to fixing this year.

They also offered to change the front shocks and thrust arm bushings for 
$1600.

Gary Derian

>>
>> When BMW called back, they said that it is *NOT* this issue, and they 
>> have to
>> crack the case to figure out what it might be...
>> BMW will pay for the new box, but labor will be ~$1600.
>>
>> Without speaking to tech yet (waiting for his call back), are they trying 
>> to
>> take me for a ride?  The reason I think they might be yanking my 
>> ding-dong
>> (technical term) is that they said that the TSB referred to below is NOT
>> relevant to a 4wd car... it has a different tranny.
>
> $1600 in shop hours to R&R the tranny? Sure, the 325xi's AWD must have a 
> bit
> more stuff to unbolt, but that seems rather stiff.
>
> Neil
> Fort Wayne, IN
> 96 M3      - Bastard child
> 03 525iT   - Sterling Grey Metallic
> 05 Mini    - Cooper S with LSD
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



------------------------------

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