The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 3 : Issue 338 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
S50 vs S52 intake and head gaskets
Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
E38 740 questions
Re: E38 740 questions
M20 Head swap. What else while "in there"
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 14:28:14 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Robert M. Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
<bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Modulation meaning rapidly turning the IR LED on and off so bursts of light
arrive at the Lidar gun before and after your reflected burst causing it to
screw up the distance calculation?
Seems to me existing LED taillights are modulated as I can see the flicker
at night.
Gary Derian
> Remember, gentlemen, the correct answer is not overkill, it's modulation;
> "Everything in modulation", to perhaps paraphrase Aristotle... this may
> also prove an advantage, albeit transitory, when the modern analogues to
> the
> Spectre III start looking around for high-intensity 904nm where it
> shouldn't
> be as I fully expect will soon be the case.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 22:27:02 -0500
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Remember, gentlemen, the correct answer is not overkill, it's modulation;
OK, how about someone design a system that 'modulates' between laser
guided missiles and cannon as a response to a laser lock on the vehicle.
Doesn't matter if the maggot locks you and gets a speed reading, a
good system would prevent him from ever testifying against you........
Brett Anderson
KMS
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 16:14:30 -0600
From: "Dennis Wynne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Tom Swift laser doohickey
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I think you are making it WAY too complex. At one time there was
(they said) an x-band jammer that would allow a lock but always show a
slower speed - you could set it for (your speed - xx) or just for (xx
mph). I don't know that these ever really worked, however. The idea
was to make the LEO think his stuff was working fine and that you were
not speeding. Cruder jammers were said to exist that just sent out
"random", but powerful, signals to overwhelm the reflected x-band from
the gun. The idea was prevent lock. No jammer that was FCC legal would
work, though given enough (non-legal) power a jammer of this type
should work.
The Veil coating does work as you say - you coat your headlights and
front plate (if so equipped) and it reduces the amount of reflection
back at the laser gun. The less it reflects the closer you have to be
for a lock. So if on a certain car a certain gun could lock at 1,500
feet then add Veil and it may drop to 800 feet - this lets you get a
lot closer and have more time to see and react. You have to coat the
plate (if equipped) and the headlights/foglights since the LEO might
shift aim if the plate fails to produce a lock, or the headlights,
etc. It is not a "stealth" coating in that using it is pretty obvious
- and would also reduce headlight effectiveness at night, I would
think.
The Blinder type jammers do not try to fool the LEO into thinking you
are driving a slower speed, they just send you as much light as
possible with (I assume) random modulations so they can't get a lock.
In the tests that I have read some of the newer laser (lidar) guns
will detect this jamming and show the operator in the "viewfinder"
that they are being jammed. Like Veil you would need a blinder or two
for the front plate (if equipped) and one for each headlight. With
these in place then when the LEO targets these areas the laser is
sensed and the blinder lights up and "overwhelms" the reflected light
so you could drive a lot closer to the gun before they had a lock on
you. Clearly they could shift aim for other lights, or other parts of
your car and may be able to get a lock (easier the lighter the car
color) - the idea being you would have enough time to react. I think
folks that run the blinders have the rigged with a timer or cutoff
switch so that the unit(s) will shut off after x seconds and allow a
lock - to keep them from being sure you have countermeasures.
So if you designed a home-brew blinder you would need to have the LEDs
mounted near the headlights/fog lights and plate (if equipped) and
then have some "random" modulation on them to prevent lock - no fancy
math to make the cop think you are going 35mph all the time or
something :-)
Of course, you would set off my V1s and most likely the Escort 8500
and Bell x?? detectors all the time as well - which would not be nice.
My V1s have picked up "scatter" many, many times when I was not the
direct targer of the lidar gun - my Escort 8500 never has. Of course,
the V1s always find the GM 3rd brake lights and some other roadside
signs for me with a nice laser detected (pee in your pants) alarm -
the 8500 does not false. Heck, in one car the V1 laser would go off
when I popped up the OEM NAV LCD panel - and it would stay on for
several minutes until the panel warmed up enough to NOT give off light
the V1 did not like. I tried the 8500 in that car it could care less
about the NAV panel.
Dennis
On 12/12/06, Robert M. Ellsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Blinders around the license plate frame make the 'most' sense if you're
> going to use them, as that's, from my memory, where most officers are
> trained to aim in order to avoid issues with improper targeting.
>
> The translucent 'veil' is material that tries to do two things: scatter the
> light to reduce return-path intensity, and absorb light of the wavelengths
> used in lidar (usually in the 904nm range, historically, but I'd easily
> expect polyspectral devices "soon" if not already...) Note that if you wax
> the stuff, it stops doing its jobs almost instantly -- I would treat it as
> if it were 'flat black finish' if applying any detailing potions ;-}
>
> So
> what an 'advanced' Tom Swift blinder modulator will do is send appropriately
> shifted pulse information *at high brightness* THAT VARIES WITH TIME AND
> BRAKING EFFORT right from the instant the 904nm light is detected. (Useful,
> of course, if you can pick up the pulse frequency the device uses and jam on
> that riff, but as noted by the time you decode the pulsetrain from a strong
> event, the device has already derived your speed...)
>
> You have at least two flavors of response: make it look like you're covering
> far less distance per pulse, or make it look like you're accelerating wildly
> fast (probably a sign to the lidar's internal logic that it's heterodyning
> two 'equal' returns). Personally, I'd do a little homework aka industrial
> espionage to see if there are 'consistent' pulsetrain timings in use for
> given makes of guns, and build my emitter driver base rate accordingly...
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 17:34:59 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "[uucdigest]" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>,
bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: S50 vs S52 intake and head gaskets
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
What is different between the S50 and S52 intake and head gasket set?
I'm putting an M50 manifold on an S52, and replacing the head gasket.
What else will I need in addition to an S52 head set?
tia,
Barry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 19:49:05 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
BMW got my new ignition cylinder to me in under 3 business days. I
had no significant problems getting the old one out with a "tool" made
of a large-size paper clip. Nobody mentioned the real challenge with
this job: removing the EWS antenna from the old cylinder!
There is a special tool for that job too. Dunno if it costs more than
a new EWS antenna though. In the end, the method I chose was to clamp
the old cylinder in a bench vise and pry at the antenna's snap tabs with
a screwdriver. It's a tough bit of plastic, and if you try to do this
while holding it in your hand, you'll probably stab yourself.
Happy ending: removed the piece of old broken tab from its slot,
installed new bits, and all is well.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 23:37:26 -0500
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Yeah, that antenna can be a bitch. We don't have the special tool, just
the knack.
Actually, I can't explain it. It's one of those "gotta hold your mouth
right" jobs. Sometimes, it pops right off, other times you better have
one on the shelf 'cause you're going to really f*ck up the one you're
working on.
Brett Anderson
KMS
PS. Stabbing one's hand with a small screwdriver is not only a right of
passage for a mechanic, but a way of life. It's when you've put a large
screwdriver through the web of your hand that you're a true master tech.
Yup, been there, done that got the really cool scar to prove it.
John Bolhuis wrote:
> Nobody mentioned the real challenge with
> this job: removing the EWS antenna from the old cylinder!
> There is a special tool for that job too. Dunno if it costs more than
> a new EWS antenna though. In the end, the method I chose was to clamp
> the old cylinder in a bench vise and pry at the antenna's snap tabs with
> a screwdriver. It's a tough bit of plastic, and if you try to do this
> while holding it in your hand, you'll probably stab yourself.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 23:45:57 -0500
From: "Russell Highton Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <e39> ignition cylinder fixed
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Haha, just counted 3 nice screwdriver scars on my left hand (right
handed). I'm getting there... now if I could only get the web...
-Russ
-----Original Message-----
Brett Anderson
KMS
PS. Stabbing one's hand with a small screwdriver is not only a right of
passage for a mechanic, but a way of life. It's when you've put a large
screwdriver through the web of your hand that you're a true master tech.
Yup, been there, done that got the really cool scar to prove it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 22:54:57 -0500
From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: E38 740 questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey all,
Still shopping for the 740 family truckster (Vacation is on TV right now).
I found one near Nashville that I'm interested in....Murfreesboro, TN.
Anyone know of a shop/independent or even a reputible dealer I could get a
PPI done at?
I'm heading down to NC next weekend so if things worked out quickly I'd take
a detour to pick it up on the way. How cool would that be? Anyway, if anyone
knows of a shop I'd love to hear about it.
Now for a couple additional questions.....
1. This car is a 740i, not an iL that I was originally looking for. Other
than the extra leg room is there really any difference between the i and il?
The car in question is a 1998.
2. I dont have any reason to believe that this car has had any cooling
system or suspension system maintenance done on it. Certainly I have no
concerns about doing this stuff myself but is 120k miles, like so many
BMW's, the right time for this stuff on this car? I'm sure it is but some
reassurance never hurts. Since I'd have extra room I may consider taking a
bunch of parts with me...just in case.
Thanks for any thoughts and assistance!
Jack Money
--
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 23:58:37 -0500
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jack - Elephant Motorsports <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: E38 740 questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
www.bimrs.com for a shop. There is at least one in Nashville.
There is no necessary difference between an i and iL. The iL has more
features as standard, perhaps, but nothing that couldn't be ordered in
the i. Also, the i was available as a sport, the iL was not. Late iL's
were given a "sport" designation, with the wheels, but none of the good
stuff.
At 120k miles, change the radiator, expansion tank and
thermostat/housing assembly immediately. The vehicle will be nearing
the end of it's suspension life, but that shouldn't be a deal killer.
Brett Anderson
KMS
Jack - Elephant Motorsports wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Still shopping for the 740 family truckster (Vacation is on TV right now).
> I found one near Nashville that I'm interested in....Murfreesboro, TN.
> Anyone know of a shop/independent or even a reputible dealer I could get a
> PPI done at?
>
> I'm heading down to NC next weekend so if things worked out quickly I'd take
> a detour to pick it up on the way. How cool would that be? Anyway, if anyone
> knows of a shop I'd love to hear about it.
>
> Now for a couple additional questions.....
>
> 1. This car is a 740i, not an iL that I was originally looking for. Other
> than the extra leg room is there really any difference between the i and il?
> The car in question is a 1998.
>
> 2. I dont have any reason to believe that this car has had any cooling
> system or suspension system maintenance done on it. Certainly I have no
> concerns about doing this stuff myself but is 120k miles, like so many
> BMW's, the right time for this stuff on this car? I'm sure it is but some
> reassurance never hurts. Since I'd have extra room I may consider taking a
> bunch of parts with me...just in case.
>
> Thanks for any thoughts and assistance!
>
> Jack Money
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 14:32:14 -0500
From: Ryan Brenneman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: M20 Head swap. What else while "in there"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Gruppe
I have a friend that has let the timing belt on his nice E30 325ic break.
Luckily it was at low rpm and all he did was bend some valves. I think it will
be the least expensive to replace the head with a used one. I am going to help
wrench on it as I have taken apart a couple of M50s but no M20s. What else
should he be looking at replacing while we are in there? I know the water pump
is right there, but is there anything else that stands out? Car has 180k on it.
Thanks.
Ryan Brenneman
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End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages)
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