The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 347 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: more spiffing WOB Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Quick brake rotor question - rust Re: Quick brake rotor question - rust Re: Quick brake rotor question - rust Re: Quick brake rotor question - brain rust Re: <E36> foglight removal? doh, apostrophes, Iraq, Pluto, and the holidays (was Re: <E36> foglight removal?) E34 M50 Emissions
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 09:40:58 -0600 From: "Tom Dotzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bill Proud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: more spiffing WOB Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Interference powders are what is used for making these metalic paints that shift colors when viewed from a different viewpoint or with a changing lightsource. They are also called mica powders. Each granule is a small chip of mica coated with iron oxide. Light is reflected off the mica chip and passes through the coating.The thickness or number of coats of the iron ox determines what color appears. They are most effective applied over a very dark background. These powders are the basis for pearlescent finishes, too. BTW the wall treatment was for a "nightscape" effect on the walls of a home theatre room. Happy Holidays, Bill and UUC'ers TD. On 12/22/06, Bill Proud <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OK Tom , you have piqued my interest ...........what in the World are " > interference powders in a wall treatment " ? . I'm having a hard time > visualising a wall needing makeup -even if it does appear in a movie ...... > That must be the kind Donald Trump wears 'cuz he interferes with everything > ..... > Beepee > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Dotzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> > Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 11:19 PM > Subject: [UUC] more spiffing WOB > > > >I once had some friends who worked on boats at a marina ridecule me > > when I asked for ArmorAll to put on my dash. They said dontcha know > > its got silicon and will eventually dry out the vinyl? I asked them > > what they used on boat vinyl and they told me they used Mop n'Glow. > > Anyone heard or tried this. I did use some as a medium for applying > > interference powders in a wall treatment once. It worked cool. It is > > obviously some kind of waterbase copolymer thing. > > Tom Dotzler > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 10:59:08 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I wasn't confused, I was questioning the relationship between a rich fuel mixture and a stuffed cat. I provided an example where this doesn't happen and an explanation of how it can, but I don't see how an improperly reading O2 sensor can stuff the cat. Gary Derian Sorry for the confusion... I should have typed "If the O2 sensor VOLTAGE is low, then it reads the mixtures as lean an enrichens it more than it should, thus stuffing the cat..." ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 21:24:27 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, I know you have this long held belief that fuel cools a cat. But I can tell you from experience that the only time you see a cat glowing so red hot that it can set fire to the carpet, is when fuel is being dumped into it and ignites. The cat is supposed to get hot, it's not supposed to have enough fuel to catch fire. Yes, that takes oxygen too, so it's generally a misfire situation. Hard to get in an OBDII vehicle, as to prevent this exact scenario, OBDII vehicles will shut off the injectors if a misfire is detected. Brett Anderson KMS Gary Derian wrote: > I wasn't confused, I was questioning the relationship between a rich > fuel mixture and a stuffed cat. I provided an example where this > doesn't happen and an explanation of how it can, but I don't see how an > improperly reading O2 sensor can stuff the cat. > Gary Derian > > Sorry for the confusion... > I should have typed > > "If the O2 sensor VOLTAGE is low, then it reads the mixtures as lean an > enrichens it more than it should, thus stuffing the cat..." > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2006 00:32:24 -0600 From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: <e34> check engine light - code get won't work Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett says: >But I can tell you from experience that the only time you see a cat glowing >so red hot that it can set fire to the carpet, is when fuel is being dumped >into it and ignites. I've got a 94 ford ranger than can prove this. Jon ----- Original Message ----- From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] <e34> check engine light - code get won't work > > Gary, I know you have this long held belief that fuel cools a cat. But I > can tell you from experience that the only time you see a cat glowing so > red hot that it can set fire to the carpet, is when fuel is being dumped > into it and ignites. The cat is supposed to get hot, it's not supposed to > have enough fuel to catch fire. > > Yes, that takes oxygen too, so it's generally a misfire situation. Hard to > get in an OBDII vehicle, as to prevent this exact scenario, OBDII vehicles > will shut off the injectors if a misfire is detected. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > > > Gary Derian wrote: >> I wasn't confused, I was questioning the relationship between a rich fuel >> mixture and a stuffed cat. I provided an example where this doesn't >> happen and an explanation of how it can, but I don't see how an >> improperly reading O2 sensor can stuff the cat. >> Gary Derian >> >> Sorry for the confusion... >> I should have typed >> >> "If the O2 sensor VOLTAGE is low, then it reads the mixtures as lean an >> enrichens it more than it should, thus stuffing the cat..." >> >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:14:13 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "911" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>, "'The FerrariList'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Quick brake rotor question - rust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Time permitting, I might be able to shuffle around in the garage this weekend and install new brake pads and rotors. Well, the pads are new, the rotors are stock, taken off before installing track stuff. (Going back to stock street, due to the fact that I have a track car now, and I'm kinda tired of having to clean brake dust off the wheels after EVERY drive {not that I actually do it!}, and the squeaking is getting a bit annoying on the street car.) Anyway, about to reinstall the stock rotors, and noticed last night that they have a very light layer of surface rust. I know that this is to be expected from stock iron rotors, and doesn't particularly bother me, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best way to clean them off before installation. And what sort of coating, if any, to put on the hat to prevent re-rusting (if possible). I know that the rotors will rust up after being driven in the wet and put away without being "squeegee'd" by braking, so I don't care about that, but is there a way to keep rust from building up on the surfaces not under the pad? Thanks, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 16:51:27 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Quick brake rotor question - rust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My opinion? Just drive it. Any "coating" on a brake rotor would surely be a bad idea from a braking standpoint, and would only last until you were through that first stop sign ... Maybe the second. The amount of rust on a brake rotor is trivial and it's gone after you hit the brake pedal ... Assuming you're moving at the time. Well, I suppose something like a TiN coating might last for a little while, but braking performance would certainly suck. If the rust REALLY bothers you, you might see if you can get carbon fiber rotors like those used on F1 cars ... Might be a bit pricey though. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:14 AM To: 911; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com; 'The FerrariList' Subject: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust Time permitting, I might be able to shuffle around in the garage this weekend and install new brake pads and rotors. Well, the pads are new, the rotors are stock, taken off before installing track stuff. (Going back to stock street, due to the fact that I have a track car now, and I'm kinda tired of having to clean brake dust off the wheels after EVERY drive {not that I actually do it!}, and the squeaking is getting a bit annoying on the street car.) Anyway, about to reinstall the stock rotors, and noticed last night that they have a very light layer of surface rust. I know that this is to be expected from stock iron rotors, and doesn't particularly bother me, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best way to clean them off before installation. And what sort of coating, if any, to put on the hat to prevent re-rusting (if possible). I know that the rotors will rust up after being driven in the wet and put away without being "squeegee'd" by braking, so I don't care about that, but is there a way to keep rust from building up on the surfaces not under the pad? Thanks, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 17:25:33 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Quick brake rotor question - rust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Karl. But perhaps I didn't make myself clear in my original post. I *know* that the swept area of the rotor under the pad will be cleaned at the first use of the brakes. So I'm not concerned about that. It's just that the HATS are rather unsightly. I don't care that much, but since I know that most new rotors do NOT get rust on the hats when first put into use, I was just wondering what sort of coating NEW rotors had that prevented rust from forming instantly (on the NON-SWEPT portions of the rotor). As it stands, I've gotten a few suggestions, from Por15 to Eastwood's metal wash to anti-seize (LIGHT coat) to chemically "bluing it" to AluZinc to Cosmoline to BBQ paint. I think I'll just try a quick shot of Rustoleum iron oxide primer. If that doesn't work, I don't really care! :-) :-) Vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:51 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust My opinion? Just drive it. Any "coating" on a brake rotor would surely be a bad idea from a braking standpoint, and would only last until you were through that first stop sign ... Maybe the second. The amount of rust on a brake rotor is trivial and it's gone after you hit the brake pedal ... Assuming you're moving at the time. Well, I suppose something like a TiN coating might last for a little while, but braking performance would certainly suck. If the rust REALLY bothers you, you might see if you can get carbon fiber rotors like those used on F1 cars ... Might be a bit pricey though. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:14 AM To: 911; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com; 'The FerrariList' Subject: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust Time permitting, I might be able to shuffle around in the garage this weekend and install new brake pads and rotors. Well, the pads are new, the rotors are stock, taken off before installing track stuff. (Going back to stock street, due to the fact that I have a track car now, and I'm kinda tired of having to clean brake dust off the wheels after EVERY drive {not that I actually do it!}, and the squeaking is getting a bit annoying on the street car.) Anyway, about to reinstall the stock rotors, and noticed last night that they have a very light layer of surface rust. I know that this is to be expected from stock iron rotors, and doesn't particularly bother me, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best way to clean them off before installation. And what sort of coating, if any, to put on the hat to prevent re-rusting (if possible). I know that the rotors will rust up after being driven in the wet and put away without being "squeegee'd" by braking, so I don't care about that, but is there a way to keep rust from building up on the surfaces not under the pad? Thanks, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2006 06:14:10 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Quick brake rotor question - brain rust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think your original message was clear enough - I just didn't read it clearly. Cheers! -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 5:26 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust Thanks, Karl. But perhaps I didn't make myself clear in my original post. I *know* that the swept area of the rotor under the pad will be cleaned at the first use of the brakes. So I'm not concerned about that. It's just that the HATS are rather unsightly. I don't care that much, but since I know that most new rotors do NOT get rust on the hats when first put into use, I was just wondering what sort of coating NEW rotors had that prevented rust from forming instantly (on the NON-SWEPT portions of the rotor). As it stands, I've gotten a few suggestions, from Por15 to Eastwood's metal wash to anti-seize (LIGHT coat) to chemically "bluing it" to AluZinc to Cosmoline to BBQ paint. I think I'll just try a quick shot of Rustoleum iron oxide primer. If that doesn't work, I don't really care! :-) :-) Vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:51 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust My opinion? Just drive it. Any "coating" on a brake rotor would surely be a bad idea from a braking standpoint, and would only last until you were through that first stop sign ... Maybe the second. The amount of rust on a brake rotor is trivial and it's gone after you hit the brake pedal ... Assuming you're moving at the time. Well, I suppose something like a TiN coating might last for a little while, but braking performance would certainly suck. If the rust REALLY bothers you, you might see if you can get carbon fiber rotors like those used on F1 cars ... Might be a bit pricey though. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:14 AM To: 911; bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com; 'The FerrariList' Subject: [UUC] Quick brake rotor question - rust Time permitting, I might be able to shuffle around in the garage this weekend and install new brake pads and rotors. Well, the pads are new, the rotors are stock, taken off before installing track stuff. (Going back to stock street, due to the fact that I have a track car now, and I'm kinda tired of having to clean brake dust off the wheels after EVERY drive {not that I actually do it!}, and the squeaking is getting a bit annoying on the street car.) Anyway, about to reinstall the stock rotors, and noticed last night that they have a very light layer of surface rust. I know that this is to be expected from stock iron rotors, and doesn't particularly bother me, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for the best way to clean them off before installation. And what sort of coating, if any, to put on the hat to prevent re-rusting (if possible). I know that the rotors will rust up after being driven in the wet and put away without being "squeegee'd" by braking, so I don't care about that, but is there a way to keep rust from building up on the surfaces not under the pad? Thanks, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/597 - Release Date: 12/21/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/598 - Release Date: 12/22/2006 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:38:24 -0500 From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "John Bolhuis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: <E36> foglight removal? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As Homer Simpson so eloquently put it "dOAh!" -Jason '86 951 "Sparky" '70 240Z "Dusty" '97 Contour "Bambi" '03 325xi "Daisy" > Yeah, I wasn't gonna say anything, but screwing up an e-brake turn on the > snow and hitting your own mailbox works for me. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 12:18:42 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: doh, apostrophes, Iraq, Pluto, and the holidays (was Re: <E36> foglight removal?) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > As Homer Simpson so eloquently put it > > "dOAh!" That's Katherine Hepburn-Simpson, I believe. "dOAh, dOAh, dOAh!" It's terrible what the palsy did to her doh. Homer used the inflection-free "Doh!" It was Homer O'Leary who perfected the apostrophe-infected "D'oh!". We're working on the Anti-Superfluous Apostrophe Taxation initiative. We figure for every bonehead that puts an apostrophe before every letter S, taxed at .005¢ per incident, we can fund the war in Iraq and a manned mission to every planet (including Pluto, whose size will be increased to regain planetary status) within a week. While on the subject of initiatives, the other bill we're looking to put through is the Adjustment of Antiquated Greetings and Expresions program. For example, Christmas. The common greeting is "Merry Christmas", as many of us have heard. Studies have shown that the word "merry" itself is no longer considered modern English, with a JH study showing that 99.85% of usage is confined to the period between December 9th and December 25th, all relating to the holiday. The remaining .15% of usage through the year is strictly among holiday music vendors discussing next year's catalog and listing the names of Christmas songs. Besides that, the word "merry" has not been commonly used since July 14th, 1854. Alternate-use dispensation for the Christmas greeting will be given to "Punctual" ("Have a Punctual Christmas!" is useful for subtly reminding relatives not to be late), "Generous", "Sober", "Amicable", and the general purpose "Good". Expressions targeted in the AAG&E program include such examples as "bitchin'" (come on, Californians, 1982 was a long time ago, get with the program), "wicked" (you too, people from Massachusetts), and "phat" (believe it or not, there are still some pockets of resistance). Increased penalties for "mine's" (instead of "mine") and "Me and him..." include mandatory sterilization at the first offense, laryngectomy on the second. So to, all, have a Perfunctory Christmas, an Unambiguous Kwanza, a Passable Hanukkah, a Circumspect Festivus, and try not to have a feculent New Year! - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2006 10:11:13 -0500 From: "Steve Nash" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E34 M50 Emissions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It was bound to happen sooner or later. My '95 E34 525i failed an emissions test. I live in MD and we have a treadmill test. I'm trying to track down the problem and need some pointers on where to start. Here are the results. HC State Standards - .9 GPM Inspection Readings - 1.6 GPM Failed CO State Standards - 20.00 GPM Inspection Readings - 43.34 GPM Failed As you can see, it failed pretty bad. The car has 132k miles with no drivability issues that I know of (wife drives it daily). I did the stomp test looking for codes and got none. As I understand it, the high HC is an indicator of unburnt fuel. So what is the first thing I should check for? Intake leaks? O2 sensor? Coolant temp sensor? I hoping the cat is OK and it is fairly simple to track down. Thanks for any help. -- Stephen P. Nash Nash Floor Company 5040 Boiling Brook Parkway Rockville, MD 20852 301-881-0004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
