The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 388 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E39 xenon headlamps Re: dumb question for E38 M50 manifold install: epilog/ installation, testing, data logging Dinan vs Conforti s/w, etc. listadmin, please remove my old email address, [EMAIL PROTECTED] resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Re: [bmwuucdigest] E38 battery Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 08:35:09 -0800 From: "Brad Houser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Alex Cagann'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: E39 xenon headlamps Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Try swapping the bulbs to the other side. If the bad one moves it is the bulb, if not try swapping the ballast. If it moves then it is the ballast. If not, then it is something else. I don't have a wiring diagram, so it could be fuses (if there is one for each side) or the LKM. Other suggestions? Brad Houser > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:bmwuucdigest- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alex Cagann > Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:25 PM > To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > Subject: [UUC] E39 xenon headlamps > > My 99 5 series has self leveling xenon's and one of them is out. Any > recommendations on how to go about testing what is messed up...if I'm > not > mistaken, there is a power module before the actual headlight unit...do > you > have to replace everything? > > Alex Cagann > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail- > archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 12:57:04 -0800 From: "Curtis Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: dumb question for E38 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If your battery is under the rear seat or in the trunk, be sure you get and install a vent tube when you get a non-BMW battery. Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA Alex Cagann wrote: > Batteries are cheap. You don't need to go to a shop to get one. Take your > battery out, go to your local parts store (Autozone, Advanced Auto, > O'Reilly...whatever). Get a new battery and put it in yourself. Price for > your battery should be between $40 and $80. Bring your old battery with > you...you get about $10 for it, and you don't' have to worry about getting > rid of it. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2007 13:40:25 -0800 From: bbarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com, bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: M50 manifold install: epilog/ installation, testing, data logging Dinan vs Conforti s/w, etc. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> M50 install: Epilog: Kits available: To do an M50 manifold swap for the first time, allow a day. Many little gotchas and finger joint dislocators to get it all out. So I did the smart thing and paid a guy a few $$ who's done a bunch of these for help and makes his own low tech conversion kit. There is also a mother lode of the odd part numbered manifolds. That's the style I ended up using because it will allow external mounting of the intake air sensor and a downward angled fitting for the brake booster vacuum take hose. The angled down position allows more room to place the ASC throttle body after its removed. The ASC throttle body switch mechanism still has to be able to cycle when starting else an ASC fault occurs and the ABS won't work. Every kit available has its flaws and advantages. I used one made by Eric Eviston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, who has simple solutions to what the Eurosport kit sells beautifully machined parts for. Prob with the Eurosport kit is it requires other adaptations since it lowers the required mounting position of everything else. Eric's kit doesn't look as elegant, but is functionally simpler, using the existing lower bracket, with a cut in it for clearance to the breather fittings in the stock M50 manifold locations, and an arrangement of fuel line hose at set angles. It probably will be easier to install because less needs to be done. The rest of my setup, and what else yo may wish to install: For breathing, it does not makes sense to install an M50 manifold and keep the stock intake boot or ASC secondary throttle body. Those choke the chicken way too much, allowing a fraction of the gains the manifold makes possible, and leaving a peaky power curve. I've already been using a UUC Viper airbox (thanks as always to our sponsor Rob), my homemade 3 1/2" MAF tube with the stock sensor, Dinan stage 1 s/w that meters it nicely when used with 24# Mustang Cobra injectors, and the 3 1/2" diameter Turbohoses 90 degree boot. The boot has fittings for both the ICV hose and an intake air sensor. [no commercial interest in the above mentioned, etc]. Which sensor location, manifold or boot is better? We installed a sensor in each to test with. Road testing: Cold start: With the OBDCOM loaded laptop hooked up to log the data, Jack started cold with no problems. The cold idle was higher by ~300rpm at first. Some idle stutter at first. After warming up, OBDCOM showed there was a bit of positive fuel correction so I increased the fuel pressure a touch. This morning after driving from LA back up to the Bay area last night, the cold start was same as with the original manifold. So the ECU adapted in that regard. Manifold airflow increase: Flowbench numbers are nice, but what's the real flow increase on the car? OBDCOM measured ~two lb/minte increase at just before redline than the M52 manifold. The M50 is criticized in the midrange, but I think that could be on more stock setups with less other intake breathing. Throttle response might be subjectively a bit flatter at low rpm, but how often do we care what happens at full throttle at 2500-3000 rpm? At low to mid reves,it is part throttle squeezes that matter, and here, the throttle response is at least as good. The intake air sensor seemed to get heat soaked in the manifold mount when at idle or sitting still. It took up to ~1/2 highway mile to settle down but still remained a higher amount than the boot position over what the OBC read for ambient. This points to a overly lean fuel correction in part throttle starts after a period of sitting still. This effect will happen on any maniold mounted air sensor. In the intake boot, no lag or heat soak. The reading is an accurate reflection of what the intake air temperature is. In this location, it reads 5-7 degrees over ambient. This matches sensor measurements from Eric's car too, so the sensor will stay in the boot. Older models located the sensor there, and it seems that repositioning will be a nice tweak for off the line starts on any later bimmer. Driving: Note fuel pressure setting is still guesstimated, this is not dyno tuned yet: Initial ECU adapting and data logging Dinan vs. Conforti s/w: First few sweeps to redline, it seemed lean, wheezy sound, the manifold breathing improvement was obvious regardless. After about 25 aggressive highway miles the engine started to come on stronger up to redline. Still felt tentative, and the spark advance shown by OBDCOM verified the advance was jumping up and down a bit. Then we drove Eric's car, also logging data, over the same test loop. Eric's MAF is stock with and ECIS intake and Conforti stage 1 s/w and the M50 manifold, also with air temp sensor in the intake boot. It was interesting to get to log the range of adjustments and degrees of load and fuel correction Conforti uses vs. Dinan. Though the two cars are not setup the same, surprisingly there isn't much difference between how the two softwares manage the engine. Conforti may give a touch more advance sooner than Dinan, but total advance and fuel correction at idle and cruising and most else are about the same. With the M50 manifold making the higher revs worth using, I give the performance win to Conforti due to the 7000 RMP redline in all gears while Dinan cuts off at 6750 in 3,4,and 5th. If you want to pass emissions legitimately, Dinan is the safer bet. 300 miles on the I5: Enough yaya's out there on a Saturday night to keep me ticket free and offer lots of chances to take it to redline in 3rd and 4th with someone ahead who would get a cop's attention first. After about 300 miles things seem to be well adapted. Passing in third leaves me wanting that next 250rpm the Dinan s/w doesn't give, and in 4th the power keeps on coming. Fuel economy: Overall 24mpg with cruise set on ~82 at speed limit 65 and 87 when at speed limit 70, occasional stretches with other cars at just under 100, plus about a dozen 3rd and a few 4th gear redline runs, 23.7mpg for the 341 mile trip, with air temps ~60 dropping to 50 degrees. The 3.38 rear tops gears out 5% lower, and costs 1-2 mpg. With the increased airflow and what the 24# injectors can pump, this will suck down the gas if you step on it, but seems like it can deliver better MPG in steady cruising. Dyno tuning: Ireland Engineering has come out with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge for OBDII. It should arrive this week, and I'll dyno things out after I get it installed. The 'sweet spot' for fuel pressure is in within a half a psi, and one psi can make a 5+ hp difference, so dyno tuning is essential. For now, based on my previous best dyno of 235rwhp and a low of 229 in this current configuration (different tires, dynos, and weather conditions), and with the measured 7 to 10% MAF airflow increase, I'm guessing 240ish, with peak tq about the same but at higher RPM. Will post the numbers when its dialed in. Barry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2007 14:08:47 -0800 From: bbarry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: listadmin, please remove my old email address, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry for <WOB> listadmin, please remove my old email address, [EMAIL PROTECTED] The list management commands to do this seem to require I send from the old address itself which I can no longer do. tia, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 21:22:39 -0800 (PST) From: dinty44 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, Recently, the SRS light that used to go out immediately upon starting my car, is now taking up to 3+ minutes to shut off in my 1995 540i. I'm curious if anyone knows what is going on with it? Does the SRS system need resetting? If so, is there a way to reset it without buying the Peake tool? Thanks all, David Moore 1995 540i ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 23:34:00 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'dinty44'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's the clockspring in the steering column or the drivers buckle. The early e36's did this, my M3 included. Paul A. Garnier Houston, TX 281-827-0725 www.fastnetworking.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dinty44 Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 11:23 PM To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: [UUC] resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i All, Recently, the SRS light that used to go out immediately upon starting my car, is now taking up to 3+ minutes to shut off in my 1995 540i. I'm curious if anyone knows what is going on with it? Does the SRS system need resetting? If so, is there a way to reset it without buying the Peake tool? Thanks all, David Moore 1995 540i ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 00:34:12 -0500 From: Bill Weismann - MSR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: dinty44 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> David, I do not advocate just resetting the light, that's a bad idea especially on an SRS system! The light's on because the system has detected a fault. Frequently enough it is a minor fix such as a seatbelt latch, etc. However, you need to find out what the problem is, fix said problem and then reset the light. It could merely be a loose connection, or a fault that will prevent the airbag from firing in an accident. The only code that I ever will just reset is one caused by unplugging a component of the system with voltage (Battery connected) present. And yes, you do need a scan tool to reset the light. Bill dinty44 wrote: > All, > > Recently, the SRS light that used to go out > immediately upon starting my > car, is now taking up to 3+ minutes to shut off > in my 1995 540i. I'm > curious if anyone knows what is going on with it? > Does the SRS system need > resetting? If so, is there a way to reset it > without buying the Peake tool? > > Thanks all, > David Moore > 1995 540i > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 21:43:18 -0800 From: David Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sunday 04 February 2007 9:34 pm, Bill Weismann - MSR wrote: > David, > > I do not advocate just resetting the light, that's a bad idea especially > on an SRS system! The light's on because the system has detected a > fault. Frequently enough it is a minor fix such as a seatbelt latch, > etc. However, you need to find out what the problem is, fix said > problem and then reset the light. It could merely be a loose > connection, or a fault that will prevent the airbag from firing in an > accident. Its my understanding that the 'failsafe' mode of the SRS system is to fire both bags 'when in doubt' so I really don't see a problem resetting the system when its something like an intermittent problem with the seat or seatbelt sensor. I don't think your getting into unsafe territory by resetting the codes when you know what they are. Check the codes...if its something mundane reset it and move along. If its something more serious, you might want to have it looked at, but it seems that 90% of the codes most people get are not really serious and may actually be a false alarm. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 21:38:52 -0800 From: David Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: resetting the SRS light - light stays on for 3+ minutes on my 1995 540i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sunday 04 February 2007 9:22 pm, dinty44 wrote: > All, > > Recently, the SRS light that used to go out > immediately upon starting my > car, is now taking up to 3+ minutes to shut off > in my 1995 540i. I'm > curious if anyone knows what is going on with it? Gotta check the SRS codes...probably something lame like a seat or seat belt sensor. Its not that unusual. > Does the SRS system need > resetting? Yes. > If so, is there a way to reset it > without buying the Peake tool? No....but the peake tool is cheap and will pay for itself after you do about two resets on your own. The peake tool will also give you the code so you can decide if its something to worry about. On our '95 M3 I get a code about every 6 months for a seat sensor or seat belt sensor. I just reset them and carry on. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 03:15:27 -0600 From: "Robert M. Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] E38 battery Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Saw this go by regarding the battery for '97 E38 V12 > AutoZone says they don't carry one nor did Sears, Interstate, or BatteryPlus > online inquiries find one. Making voice calls now.other sources > recommended? Recently replaced the battery in my '96 750iL, which is the slngle large tube-vented battery Paul mentions. Went into my local AutoZone and had them look up the battery on their computerized system. It isn't "out front" on the rack; they keep it in the back, but there was no difficulty finding one in stock in the first (small) branch store I went into. (BTW, if a particular store doesn't have one, they can look up which of the other branches has one or more in QOH and tell you). Worst case: they order it and get it in a couple of days -- I've never had to wait more than three. (Admittedly I'm in Memphis, home both of AutoZone and many nationwide distribution centers, but Houston isn't that far... ;-}) My cost was something like $74. Battery came complete with little piece of plastic tubing and fittings for vent -- DO NOT FAIL TO INSTALL THIS TUBE of course! Have not had any particular problem (knock, knock!) with battery performance so far, p.s. including leaving it sit several weeks with ambient temps often in the '20s recently. It hasn't failed to start right up. Interestingly enough, IIRC this is not their 'high end' battery line with the long fancy guarantee. There might be a subject for somebody's economics thesis in why that is so... <vbg> RME ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 08:12:13 -0500 From: "Mitchell, Philip S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com'" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 16:23:02 -0600 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Phil Davis...great tech and new member..IN listers, good news Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ...he knows more than most people forget about BMW's, Benz, Audi, and just about anything else... Alex I don't think that is what you meant! :) ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
