Charlie ;
Be aware that the venerable Rochester 'B' Series carby weeped at the bowl to air horn joint when it was new 50 years ago and always it has been and will be so if the float is properly set . Many Mechanics back in the day simply lowered the float level a little bit and so " fixed " the problem *BUT* a lower float makes the engine run leaner and with to - day's Foo-Foo ' Motor Fuel ' garbage , this can damage your beloved 6 banger perttydamnquick . So , what to do ? . Me , I just live with it and every month or so I wipe the brown stain of accumulated fuel and dust off the carby's joint before it dribbles down to the manifolds and begins to stink . If you run a micronic , clear plastic , paper element fuel filter just before the carby , then you can get some Permatex # 1H Aviation Sealer and paint both sides of the paper air horn gasket before final carby assembly , assemble it before it tacks up and then allow it to dry 24 hours before allowing any gasoline to touch it ~ this seals up the joint 100 % but it also effectively _glues_ the carby to - gether , you'll need to soak it in alcohol to take it apart again , that's why one should not do this unless you have the ' Just So ' primary fuel filter installed along with at least one spare new one and the tools to change it , in the trunk . Permatex # 1H is the old school sealer that hardens , not like the new fangled stuff in the tubes (RTV) . If you like , you can search out a Carter 2600 (?) YF series carby that was made for your Chevy , it'll increase the power and fuel economy whilst making driving more pleasurable ~ yes these carbys co$t a little bit more but are well worth the $ IMO , they don't weep either . -Nate Charlie Wrote : Hi Robert, I put some Sea Foam in the tank, the day after I got home. I am not driving the Chevy, now, until I get the leaking carboy fixed. I hope you all enjoyed my report.
