Re: [Elecraft] New Mystery: Copying groups vs plain language text (Rather OT)

[EricJ]

You were allowed to bring your own key. FCC examiner in Boston and Long 
Beach (twice) were very accommodating to me.


Just curious. How or why would anyone know, let alone remember the name 
of their FCC examiner. Seems rather strange to remember someone after 
such a very short encounter more than 30 years ago.


Eric KE6US

On 4/30/2020 9:58 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
Finkleman's keys in New York were like that, too. I remember trying to 
adjust mine. He must have used a pipe wrench to tighten them down.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 01/05/2020 5:30, Fred Jensen wrote:
The 2T and Extra were both pencil/paper copy and J-28 screwed to the 
desk with ungodly wide spacing ... not to be adjusted by examinees. [:-)

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[EricJ]

A google search brought up a number of websites with a history of ham 
licensing. They all say exactly what I said. From Wikipedia:


"In the 1950s and 1960s, Novice, Technician and Conditional exams were 
given by licensees acting as volunteer examiners."


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amateur_radio_licensing_in_the_United_States

Volunteer examiners does not mean Volunteer Examiners (VE) as we've 
known them since 1984. VE organizations are officially recognized by the 
FCC. Before that, they were hams who volunteered to whoever asked to 
administer the test, sign it, and mail it to the FCC. They were not part 
of any officially recognized program as VE's are. They were just Joe Ham 
whose friend, acquaintance or stranger asked them to give them the test. 
The applicant sent away to the FCC for the test and gave it to Joe Ham 
in a sealed envelope. I did the deed many times at K2USA when I was 
stationed there in the 60's. I was just a guy with a General Class 
license who volunteered to give them a code test and proctor a written test.


Eric KE6US

ex-K1DCK, WA6YCF, WB2PVW


On 4/29/2020 2:14 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

I'm pretty sure it was in the early 80's.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 4/28/2020 9:27 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/28/2020 4:16 PM, EricJ wrote:

but some time in the mid-50s it was given over to volunteer hams.


My memory is that it was a LOT later than that. I'd guess late '70s 
to early '80s.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Mail for Windows 10

[EricJ]

Another benefit is not getting a screen full of inane animated emojis  
from friends and relatives when html is eliminated.


Thunderbird logs in, sorts and processes email from three accounts for 
me. It puts elecraft email in one folder after stripping out any emails 
with product names from K3 on (hi). I only have a K1 and two K2s. It 
doesn't strip off-topic emails which are often the most interesting part 
of all the email reflectors I belong to. Other groups are also sorted to 
their respective folders and junk/spam/trash goes to a separate one.


Eric KE6US

On 4/29/2020 6:47 AM, Kevin Cozens wrote:

On 2020-04-29 9:30 a.m., KT5TE wrote:
I've used Kontact for decades and have all the HTML formatting turned 
off.


I have used Thunderbird for longer than I can remember. I have it set 
to use text only, even for incoming messages. I get to choose if I 
want to see HTML formatted messages. The other benefit is a reduction 
in my being tracked when reading (spam) emails.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[EricJ]

Poor choice of words on my part, Jim. "Volunteer hams" were NOT VE's . 
They weren't recognized by or known to the FCC other than as ham 
licensees. A prospective ham would find a local ham to volunteer to 
administer the exam and sign some forms. I don't think it could be a 
relative, but other than that it could be any General class ham off the 
street. That action was taken in 1955. I took my Novice exam in 1957 
with some random PFC ham my dad found in his Army unit. He might have 
been his radio operator, but he was a General Class ham from civilian 
life. I have no doubt many Novices were tested by their elmers in those 
days.


What you're probably remembering is the institution of VE's in 1982. 
While not employees of the FCC, of course, they are officially 
recognized examiners by the FCC. Also remember, I'm only talking about 
the Novice and Conditional exams. General class hams were still tested 
by the FCC. For much of that period there were no Advanced or Extra 
licenses issued at all, but until the VE program, they also were tested 
by the FCC.


Eric KE6US


On 4/28/2020 9:27 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/28/2020 4:16 PM, EricJ wrote:

but some time in the mid-50s it was given over to volunteer hams.


My memory is that it was a LOT later than that. I'd guess late '70s to 
early '80s.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[EricJ]

Any General Class ham could administer the Novice test.  The FCC field 
offices initially administered the testing, but some time in the mid-50s 
it was given over to volunteer hams. It could be anyone you could dig up 
to sign the paperwork. There were no designated VEs at the time.


I don't remember the details, but for those who could not go to an FCC 
field office for the General (disability, too far, etc.), they could get 
a waiver and get a Conditional License. That was also administered by a 
local ham, but it might have required more than one to sign off. Same 
privileges as a General Class. There might have been some limitations on 
renewals, but I don't remember them.


Eric KE6US


On 4/28/2020 11:35 AM, Mike Short wrote:

I got my Novice in 1972 in Boise Idaho. I don’t remember if there was an
FCC office there. Would they have gone to other cities to administer exams,
or did they have VE’s by then? My dad and I both tested together.
Mike
AI4NS

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 12:49 Jim Campbell  wrote:


The time of which I speak was in the mid-1950s. As I vaguely remember
there was study material that prepared you to be a knowledgeable ham.
There was also a big book that prepared you technically to be a radio
station engineer. At a later time there was a one-day cram course to
prepare you for the exam for first phone. Before my time if you had a
radiotelephone certificate you had to have a certain amount of
experience working at a commercial station in order to renew your license.

73,

Jim - W4BQP

On 4/28/2020 11:31 AM, John Simmons wrote:

Anybody remember the Bash books?

-de John NI0K


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[EricJ]

The FCC question pool was always published by the Government Printing 
Office. There were no answers though. All the study guides of the day 
were based on that pool including the ARRL License Manual.


Except for the Novice exam, I took General (Boston), Advanced and Extra 
(Long Beach) at FCC offices. When I took the Novice exam in 1957, my dad 
was Exec Officer for the 4th Regimental Combat Team at Fort Devens, MA. 
He found a PFC/ham within the ranks who administered the code exam. The 
PFC was shaking more than I was. I don't think he wanted to fail me. 
They were on bivouac at the time so I took it in the guy's squad tent 
sitting on his locker with a J-38 strapped to my leg. FCC field offices 
were nicer.


Eric KE6US

On 4/28/2020 8:49 AM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

Yes, and they changed the questions often to try to put him out of
business. Now they just publish them themselves.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 10:32 John Simmons  wrote:


Anybody remember the Bash books?

-de John NI0K

Jim Campbell wrote on 4/28/2020 9:55 AM:

While in college, I co-oped with the FCC in Atlanta, GA. I had to take
and pass my Radiotelephone First and General class licenses before I
was allowed to administer those exams. If you did not pass a test you
had to wait 30 days before you could take it again. Some applicants
tried to game the system by memorizing as many questions as they could
when they first took the test so it would give them a leg up the next
time. On the second attempt there were usually howls of anguish when
they realized they were facing a different version of the test with
different questions.

73,

Jim - W4BQP

On 4/28/2020 10:17 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

As a 17 year old, I rode the train {pulled by a coal fired
locomotive} from Fulton, KY to Memphis, TN.  I had to walk about 8
blocks to the Post Office building where the FCC administered the
tests.  I took the 4 elements and passed all 4 of them earning me a
First Class Radio Telephone license on the first try.  I recall many
much older folks seemingly to be struggling to take the tests. Some
commented "what's this kid doing in here?"  Seems some had taken it
several times without success. I spent the night with an old maid
school teacher and relative in Memphis.  I took my General class
license test the next morning in the same place. The CW receiving
portion, in the concrete basement with metal desks and metal chairs,
sounded like marbles being dropped into a galvanized wash tub.   So
was that a T followed by an E or was that and H?  Passed that one
too.  Then I rode the bus from Memphis back to my home in Martin TN.
Yes there were several circuits to identify, and some to draw, as I
recall.   That was 60 years ago.  Glad I had the experiences.

73

Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] Electrolytic Capacitor failure

[EricJ]

They are rarely operated 24/7, and they aren't usually supervised by 
career engineers. Most hams are relatively inexperienced hobbyists who 
may not recognize a problem until it is catastrophic. Someone in this 
thread already mentioned that nearly all ham shacks have a bad 
electrolytic lurking under the bench.


Eric KE6US

On 4/16/2020 7:38 AM, CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft wrote:

Hello Gill
Doing reliability calculations to MIL 217 was very instructive many years ago 
and it taught me that operating well under the limits extended MTBF a lot.  
Some military customers instructed that specs were 60% or more degraded to 
achieve longer service life.  What was your experience of that? It amazes me 
that amateur psus last so long!  Then, again, they are rarely continuously 
operated 24/7.
73
David G3UNA/G6CP


On 16 April 2020 at 15:19 Gill via Elecraft  wrote:


As Harlan pointed out - I was an engineer for the FAA until retirement -
We changed electrolytics as part of normal PM's on critical systems
usually every 5 years or so. CDE (Cornell Dubilier) indicates expected
life (MTBF) of devices operated within rated voltage & temp specs to be
about 80-100 thousand hours. Most failures occur quickly around the end
of that period. For 24/7 operated systems, that translates to around
8-10 years before rapid EOL failures begin to occur. Electrolytics can
be thought of like incandescent lamps - they have a finite useful life
and the fail quickly around the end of that time. ESR (Equivalent Series
(AC) resistance) increases which reflects in higher ripple currents in
power supplies are a main culprit. Check out:
https://www.cde.com/resources/technical-papers/reliability.pdf
73 Gill W4RYW

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Re: [Elecraft] scratchs on display

[EricJ]

I've used toothpaste for years to polish plastic. Works fine. No harsh 
or potentially damaging chemicals. Leaves your rig minty fresh.


Eric KE6US

On 4/14/2020 5:26 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I think Brasso is too corse - it will polish metal, but the plastic is 
much softer.  Just my opinion.  If the scratches are deep, that may be 
the way to go, but you will need something less abrasive to polish it.


Back in the dark days when I was repairing IBM typewriters, we had 
some plastic polish, but it worked only slightly better than a bit of 
oil on a cloth - rub with a bit of pressure and scratches can 
disappear - as long as the scratches are not deep.  The friction does 
the job.


Go to your auto parts store and ask about plastic polish.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/14/2020 8:07 PM, Wayne Suite wrote:

I heard that you can use brasso and a soft cloth and lightly apply it by
massaging to remove light scratches I would try it on something else 
1st to

be sure.

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Re: [Elecraft] Transceiver Test Bed at W3LPL

[EricJ]

I thought I was a master at making a BFD out of anything. I am not worthy!

Eric KE6US

On 3/31/2020 10:44 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:



During the Coronavirus crisis many of us have much more time than
usual for serious technical experimentation and testing.

I'm building a transceiver test bed and I'll regularly report the progress
of my test setup, procedures and results. The intent of my test bed
is to document the transmitter and receiver performance of modern
transceivers in the intense QRM environment encountered by contesters.
My test bed will not be used to duplicate technical tests such as sensitivity
and dynamic range that are well documented by other expert testers.

I welcome constructive comments about my test bed, test procedures and
results.

Hopefully other technically inclined hams will develop similar test beds
so we can compare our test procedures and results. I will share my initial
test results prior to availability of the Elecraft K4.

Test Description:

Transceivers #1 and #2 will be QRM generators using two K3 transceivers
with DVRs and stored Morse messages feeding Array Solutions Powermaster
digital wattmeters and individual dummy loads. The QRM generator
transceivers will use various frequencies very close to the frequency of
transceiver #3. The DVRs and CW message memories in the QRM
generator transceivers will store various voice and Morse messages
which will change as the test procedures evolve. The power levels and
frequencies of the QRM generator transceivers will be varied in accordance
with written test procedures.

Transceivers #3 and #4 will be the transceivers under test.

Transceiver #3 will be the transmitter-under-test feeding an Array Solutions
Powermaster digital wattmeter and dummy load. Initially they will be
my K3 and FTdx5000 transceivers and my Heil and ModMic microphones.
Transmitter #3 will generate call signs and contest exchanges to be transcribed
by operators listening to transceiver #4. The frequencies, power level,
callsigns, contest exchanges, microphones and operator controllable settings
(e.g., compression and equalization) used by transceiver #3 will be varied in
accordance with written test procedures.

Transceiver #4 will be the receiver-under-test connected to a dummy load.
Initially they will be my K3 and FTdx5000 transceivers. The callsigns
and contest exchanges transmitted by transceiver #3 will not be known to
the operator transcribing the audio heard from transceiver #4. A variety of
operators will be invited to transcribe the callsigns and contest exchanges
they hear on this transceiver.

73
Frank
W3LPL
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Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?

[EricJ]

Here's one example. No apparent squeeze keying. No wrist movement. Just 
flying fingers. There are dozens of them on youtube.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_ZEwZzuqW0

Eric KE6US

On 3/29/2020 1:24 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

On 2020-03-29 2:01 PM, EricJ wrote:

The bug was developed to minimize destructive wrist action. Operators
learned to roll their wrist, but not really flex it in any way. I've
noticed most of the high speed ops on youtube demonstrating Begali
(what else?) keys use two fingers and thumb with no wrist movement.


The only place I know that Morse was sent using "fingers only" was with
iambic/squeeze keying using an electronic keyer.

I learned on a straight key 50+ years ago where I was taught to use the
entire forearm.  I moved to a bug where I was taught to roll the forearm
(confirmed after the fact by my wife's grandfather who was a long time
Western Electric landline operator/station manager) to a single paddle
TO keyer and eventually to a dual paddle keyer.  I still roll my wrist
and use very little finger movement (obviously I don't "squeeze").

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2020-03-29 2:01 PM, EricJ wrote:
Sending Morse by foot isn't so rare. It's common enough that a Q-code 
was developed especially for it.


Most of us started on a straight key (62 years) where wrist action is 
more important. The bug was developed to minimize destructive wrist 
action. Operators learned to roll their wrist, but not really flex it 
in any way. I've noticed most of the high speed ops on youtube 
demonstrating Begali (what else?) keys use two fingers and thumb with 
no wrist movement. I've only seen it on youtube as nobody I've known 
since the Army ever sent that fast!


Eric KE6US




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Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?

[EricJ]

I use a homebrew lefty bug 90% of the time, but use a paddle with my K2 
when camping. Most of the time, without thinking, I find myself sending 
with the paddle as if it were a bug. Manual dashes and automatic dots. 
It took me awhile to even realize I was doing it.


Eric KE6US

On 3/29/2020 1:50 PM, Jim Sheldon wrote:
 I also taught myself (took a couple years to master) to switch back 
and forthe between paddles and the bug, a skill I maintain to this day 
and I'm turning 78 in a few days.


Jim, W0EB


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Re: [Elecraft] Not moving your wrist sending CW ?

[EricJ]

Sending Morse by foot isn't so rare. It's common enough that a Q-code 
was developed especially for it.


Most of us started on a straight key (62 years) where wrist action is 
more important. The bug was developed to minimize destructive wrist 
action. Operators learned to roll their wrist, but not really flex it in 
any way. I've noticed most of the high speed ops on youtube 
demonstrating Begali (what else?) keys use two fingers and thumb with no 
wrist movement. I've only seen it on youtube as nobody I've known since 
the Army ever sent that fast!


Eric KE6US

On 3/28/2020 3:47 PM, Jim Danehy wrote:

Well I have been sending CW for 70 years now. I am not the most accomplished 
Morse operator you will copy. But I wonder why someone would think it is 
improper procedure  to move your wrist ? I have watched musicians play guitars 
and bass instruments. They all move their wrists. I am not a musician myself. 
But when I do send Morse I get into a rhythm like musicians do. With 70 years 
of experience I have evolved into a competent operator.

  Many years ago my XYL told me that I also send Morse with my vocal cords when 
i send CW.  She noted that when serving me food during my contesting. She was 
correct. My speed might be higher than the average Morse  operator. I started 
with a straight key in 1950. Went to a Vibroplex bug in 1954. Up Graded to an 
electronic keyer in 1966. During that 16 year period I always moved my wrist. I 
probably own two dozen keys and paddles. I don’t get over 35 wpm very often. 
But if I find that rare operator who can copy QRQ I can crank it up. I can send 
with either hand too. The one thing I do is not think about what I am doing. It 
is all reflexes. I am a member of several CW oriented clubs. The German High 
Speed operators are excellent users of Morse. Google that organization.

To say that moving your wrist is incorrect procedure might appeal to some. Not 
me. By the way I decided years ago to put a paddle on the floor and use my 
foot. Really! That allowed me to use both hands. I have not done that for some 
years. I think I can still do that. using your feet: LF operating. In my case 
it was RF  (right foot). That was just a challenge. It did take some practice.

I sure beats some of these current modes which do not require any operator 
skill.

73
Jim
W9VNE/VA3VNE

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Re: [Elecraft] THE FUTURE OF OUR HOBBY

[EricJ]

The QRP Labs QCX certainly meet that criteria. Single band (80, 60, 40, 
30, 20, 17, pick one), LCD and controls included. Dual Si5351 VFO, 
keyer, 5 watts, CAT, cw decoder, thru-hole, not to mention built in test 
equipment for alignment and troubleshooting$49. Add solder and 
enclosure just like the SW+ series. QSX coming (some day) with SSB and 
digital modes built in. There are a few others. Dave Benson designed a 
new 4w SSB  rig called the Phaser. Single band, SSB, not DSB. For 
digital modes. You can duckduckgo it.


It's a tech hobby. Tech is always going to be relatively expensive for a 
newcomer who is starting with nothing. Expensive in equipment and 
expensive in time with a relatively steep initial learning curve. 
Nothing there has changed. It's always been a sacrifice to many.


Eric KE6US


On 12/16/2019 6:37 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Ted and all,

I do not think restricting the choices to VHF and UHF gear is going to 
"save the hobby".


There are few inexpensive ventures into HF available today.  There are 
a few inexpensive CW only kits available from QRPme.com, but those are 
quite limited and are CW only.  Oh to have the Dave Benson SWL series 
back.  Those were good kits which could put the new ham on the air 
with a good receiver, but again CW only.  I do not see any equivalent 
today.


The QRPme kits are interesting, but being CW only, they are limited to 
those willing to learn CW.  Even a 'knock-off' of the K1 is CW only.


For potentially new hams, we hams need to have something that is 
viable for HF and not expensive.  Remember the high schooler and the 
recent college graduate who does not a lot of extra money.  I do not 
see many choices for them other than the inexpensive VHF/UHF FM 
transceivers, which work fine with repeaters, but do nothing for the 
HF spectrum.
I built my first transmitter of salvaged TV parts at a very, very low 
cost, but that was back in the late 1950's when such parts were 
available many for the asking at the local TV repair shop.


A used HF transceiver may the only current logical choice.

Elecraft has championed the high performance, high end market, and has 
done well at it, but that performance comes at a price.  Few beginners 
in ham radio can afford a K3S let alone a KX2, so for beginners, they 
are "left in the lurch" with choices mainly in the used gear market.


Nostalgia for 'what was' is interesting, but does nothing for the 
newcomers to HF with limited funds.  Even the era of cheap surplus 
military gear is gone.  I used to buy Command set transmitters and 
receivers for $5 each at the surplus store, and you could salvage 
parts from them to build transmitters and receivers, but those rigs 
are collectors items today and are expensive.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/16/2019 4:44 PM, Ted Edwards W3TB wrote:

More...
Although it has not happened, I have long expected June VHF and Sept 
VHF to

displace Field Day and then get more of those many new Techs active.

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 3:42 PM Ted Edwards W3TB  
wrote:



Yet, here is another product idea that is driven by my concern that so
many new Techs get an HT and don't develop further into our fine
hobby/avocation.
A Transceiver more significant than a Chinese cheapie for getting on 
other

modes in the VHF and/or UHF bands.
I do wish there were a quality-yet-simple radio for 6m/2m would be so
handy to them to discover SSB and Digital work on those bands.  CW, 
too.


On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 12:52 PM Jim Brown 
wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] Reaching across the chronological divide

[EricJ]

We're missing the point here somehow. Siri's answer should have been 
"The best way to contact Helen is to pick up your phone and call her."


Anything else is pretty much a waste of time and resources just to talk 
to Helen. Seriously, there's a sizable investment in specialized 
equipment to make contact via AMSAT or whatever. The contact is set up 
for them. Then Jon and Helen wait to be told when the link is ready. If 
that's worth doing and will attract young people, then just shoot me. It 
sounds terminally boring.


Making that investment in specialized equipment can't be justified as 
utilitarian communication because it's expensive and inefficient. If the 
point is to contact your friends any time you want to, they are already 
doing that with a half a dozen reliable instant technologies all 
accessible from the same smartphone. I don't get where ham radio comes 
in to solve a problem they have already solved. Certainly not with a 
system that requires waiting 15 minutes for a satellite to get in 
position, and a Cupertino Robot to set up the call.


I don't have the answer to attracting young people to a rapidly changing 
hobby in an even more rapidly changing world. The aspects of the hobby 
that attracted many of us was the sheer magic of radio itself. We 
weren't attracted to it because it let us contact our friends. Even then 
we had the telephone for that. We were attracted to the magic. Nine 
times out of ten, the communication part was "599 OM PSE QSL".


I always heard how DX contacts would allow me to learn about other 
cultures. Actually, it did. After exchanging signal reports, I'd look up 
their city with an atlas or encyclopedia. But I learned zip on the air. 
A few California Kilowatts could hog a DX station, and chit chat for a 
few minutes, and did because they could. But the rest of us never got 
beyond the basic exchange and fought like hell for that. But it was 
magic so it didn't matter that it wasn't all that practical.


The magic that attracted us is gone. Maybe there's new magic to be 
found, but it's different magic that most of us with 30-70 years in the 
hobby won't understand...and probably won't like. We are the wrong 
people to even be considering answers but anyone expecting to make a 
living from the hobby will have to find that new magic. It ain't instant 
communication and it ain't the ham radio equivalent of retro turntables.


Eric KE6US

ex-K1DCK, WA6YCF, WB2PVW


On 12/14/2019 5:35 PM, andy.moorw...@moorcom.com wrote:

Question: Can amateur radio reach across the digital divide ?
My answer: It could
Follow up Question: Do you think it will ?
My answer:  No, not with current products and modes of use

Why do I say this ?
My 20 year old wants a turntable for Christmas.  Why on earth does he want
one when he can download any song he wants from his apple music account ?
Answer: People of his generation are moving beyond mere utility (listening
to any song anywhere anytime), they now want a musical experience, playing a
vinyl record - could be one of mine - with all the "atmosphere" (hiss and
scratches) to experience the music as it was "made".

Could this experiential notion morph to a communications form?
Communications utility is being able to contact your friends at anytime from
anywhere, instantly,  AKA the ubiquitous smartphone.  A communications
experience could be one where the path / mode is dynamic and not guaranteed
to succeed (applies to VHF linked repeater systems and HF).

So why won't this happen ? We (amateur radio hobbyists and industry) don't
follow the usage paradigms they are used to and frankly expect, built around
their smartphones.

The turn tables I'm looking at have RCA jacks to connect to an amplifier but
they also have Bluetooth to connect to your phone and speakers, and of
course "there's an App for that" on the smartphone.

People of this generation are not going to configure virtual COM ports so
their apps can access a radio.  Neither will they work through windows
"wizard" configuration screens.  Apple and the other developers have made
set up effortlessly work  and offer digital assistants to help you on your
way.  For example, below is a conversation from a possible radio future.

Jon, Ham Radio Operator: "Hey Siri what repeaters are near me and can I link
to Helen in Scotland ?"
Siri: " Yes Jon there are several repeaters nearby but the best way to
contact Helen is via Amsat, one will be over horizon in 15 minutes, shall I
let Helen know you want to contact her ? conditions are favorable"
Jon: " Yes Siri, let her know, I'll get the antenna ready"

Sounds like science fiction ?- no this is technically feasible today -
question is will some entity make the investments to make it happen   ?

Best Regards
Andy
K3CAQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2019 6:24 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Reaching across the chronological divide

Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 Power Measurements

[EricJ]

Guy goes into Home Depot to buy some wire.

"What size wire?"

'Uh, #14, I think."

"How long?"

"Uh...a long time. We're building a house."


Sorry.Eric KE6US


On 11/4/2019 9:05 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 11/4/2019 8:49 PM, Holger Doerschel wrote:

drops at 100 W / 28 MHz to 12.2 V.


What size wire? How long?

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Analysis of a CW COMMUNICATION

[EricJ]

Sending at the speed of the receiving station is usually the best way to 
improve probability of exchanging call signs.


At 45 wpm, most ham ops need you to send your call three times or more 
to get it so you haven't accomplished much in the way of speedier 
communication. Also simple math.


Eric KE6US

On 11/2/2019 3:00 PM, Jim Danehy wrote:

Some prefer the challenge of isolating a CW signal in order to decode it.  They 
use filtering. Eliminating interference is difficult. Interference comes from 
numerous sources.

An exchange of call signs is the desired result in a pile up or contest 
exchange.

Sending at a lower speed does not improve the probability of accomplishing that 
communication goal.

CW speed is a critical part of the communication equation. An operator sending 
at 15 wpm has 1/3 the rate of success than one who sends at 45 wpm.

  The later sends his call 3 times to only one for the slower station. Simple 
math. It might sound like bragging. A thinking person will understand how 
critical speed is to a CW operator. Some rely upon filtering. That only gets 
you so far with the goal.

I like the improved success that comes adding speed. Bragging ? I like to 
succeed. I use every tool I have.

Just my way of competing. Some can do it better than others.

Jim
W9VNE


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Tony CW transceiver for socially isolated kids

[EricJ]

I wonder if kids today are going to be impressed with a commercial radio 
that lets them talk 100' away. Most of them are packing a cellphone with 
more power than even NASA envisioned when many of us were that age.  
Radio was magic to us. Being able to talk to people in Russia was 
unbelievable. These kids communicate worldwide almost every day. I think 
they might be impressed with the simplicity of a more homebrew looking 
(guts exposed) minimalist rig with an equally simple coded "language".


Eric KE6US


On 10/18/2019 2:08 PM, Dr Stephen E Dubin via Elecraft wrote:

I have seen advertisements for FRS walkie talkies with Morse code. It may be 
done using the PTT   button, but I'm pretty sure there is a tone.  Price was 
about 12.95 per pair.  Just a thought.

73 De W3UEC (Steve Dubin)
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

[EricJ]

Very nice. I went a less imaginative direction. A replica of the 
original K1 stand.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/1WMjCbeJmLmmJRKf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7FnAUmqgtPQy5ft6

Didn't think it was appropriate to post on Thingiverse as it's a copy of 
a proprietary design. I did it as a learning exercise the first week or 
so I had the printer. I already have an original one (hi).


Eric KE6US

On 10/5/2019 2:31 PM, Denis Dimick wrote:

Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950

73's
Denis
KC6AUP


--
There is no future until we settle our past...
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Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"

[EricJ]

Maybe the termination was changed in later years. I was permanently 
assigned to K2USA from '63-'65 (not bad duty for a ham). We ran 
thousands of phone patches to/from SE Asia on that rhombic and the 20m 
monobander @ 90 feet. I used to break into QSOs between two local VKs 
chatting via ground wave with that antenna. I was the only signal they 
could hear.


You probably knew Mike Reason. When I was there, he was a local kid who 
used to hang out at the MARS station. Great guy, now SK.


Eric KE6US

ex-K1DCK, WA6YCF, WB2PVW

On 9/13/2019 3:24 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
Can you expand on this, Ken, or if easier, a reference?  I'm curious 
what tradeoffs are made.  I used a rhombic at Ft. Monmouth, NJ before 
the Army base was closed in 2011, and used to boom into Europe and 
Russia.  It was amazing.  I also got copies of WWII manuals on rhombic 
construction while there.  You know, just in case I became wealthy 
with tens of acres of land.  :-)


73,
Mike ab3ap

On 9/13/19 5:57 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

Rhombic antennas derive their well-known gain by "throwing away" some of
the design's gain.  Ditto for the infamous "inverted vee". Use is 
made of

the lobes from the four wires while disregarding others.

73 !

Ken Kopp - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 for sale

[EricJ]

Tough choice...

Eric KE6US

On 8/23/2019 1:33 PM, Brian Estes wrote:

I am selling my K2 ser #7875 which has the SSB and KAF2 filter installed.
It has been fully tested by Elecraft and the test report will be included.
Reason for selling is wife will not allow any antennas. Price is 750.00
including shipping to any US address.
Brian
KM4BPE
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Re: [Elecraft] new computers, the search for serial ports and the meaning of life...

[EricJ]

Computers with serial ports running Windows XP/7 are approaching boat 
anchor status along with Drake receivers and EF Johnson transmitters.


Eric KE6US

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Re: [Elecraft] New (second-hand) K2 owner, what now?

[EricJ]

Hi Daniel,

I'll let others handle the bulk of your questions.  I have two K2's (s/n 
567 and 6911). One QRP, the other with a KPA100. One with the KAF2 and 
the other with the KDSP2. I highly recommend the KAF2. For me, it has 
been very effective. With the KDSP2, I have to be retrained on how to 
use it if I take a lunch break. It works well when I get it set up (that 
was a major undertaking itself), then if I didn't use it, I'd always 
have to look everything up. The KAF2 just works.


The KPA100 is a good choice and works seamlessly with the K2 
(obviously), but if I were considering a KX3 later, I might get the 
KXPA-100 instead. The KPA100 is only good with the K2. You can put it in 
a separate case with the KAT100 tuner like KA4FRH and I did, but it 
still requires the K2 to function.


I'd take KA4FRH's advice on calibration. If it seems to work OK, just 
start using it. Unless something is obviously amiss, don't worry about 
calibration. Once you've used it for awhile, do the calibration with a 
little experience behind you. You'll be better equipped to understand 
what you're doing with the calibration, and know what you want.


Good luck with it. The K2 is still a fine rig for HF work. One of mine 
is ancient, but up to date with mods, so it works as well as the much 
newer one.


Eric KE6US

On 6/17/2019 3:25 PM, Daniel Solano Gómez wrote:

Hello, all,

My name is Daniel, AG5UT, and I recently purchased a second-hand K2 (#5240) as 
my first HF rig.  I believe it’s in good working condition—I haved been able to 
successfully confirm it transmits, but have yet to have a QSO.  It has the 
following options installed:

* KSB2 (1.08b)
* KAT2 (1.07)
* KIO2 (1.09)
* K160M

I have purchased the KBT2, since I like the idea of taking this car camping and 
being able to operate without having to be plugged in.

So, I have a few questions:

1. It seems like since it’s a later serial number, so I shouldn’t need to worry 
about doing any upgrades of the main system.  Is this right?

2. I think I also have the latest firmware versions, is this correct?

3. Is there any type of calibration I should do to make sure everything is 
fine?  I don’t really have much in the way of test equipment, such as frequency 
counters, signal generators, or oscilliscopes.  Should I be worrying about this?

4. Should I consider some of the options I don’t have, i.e. the KNB2 or KAF2?

5. I see references to a KDSP2, but that no longer seems to be available, is 
that right?

6. Any thoughts if getting the KPA100 would be worth it for base station use?  
Can it be used externally?  Is it fine to use it with the internal battery 
installed?  Would it be better to just buy a KXPA-100 in case I ever decide to 
upgrade to a KX3?

7. I didn’t get the cable for KIO2.  I mistakenly purchased the W1SERKT 
thinking it was what I needed.  Would the KUSB the right thing to get?

8. Are there any questions I haven’t asked, but should?

Thank you for your patience, and I appreciate your help with my newbie 
questions.  I am super-excited to finally get on the air with HF.

73,

Daniel, AG5UT


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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Kit

[EricJ]

#1 would be true for thru-hole components. SMD components on a board in, 
say, a K3 were ramped up to about 225 deg C (435 deg F) over SEVERAL 
minutes. They're designed to withstand those temps. I don't know what 
the little heat gun I use puts out, but it doesn't burn paper which 
famously burns at Fahrenheit 451.


#2 It happens. When the solder goes molten, the surface tension moves 
parts around a little. Usually, it tends to position the part on the 
pads better than you can with tweezers on clean pads. Sometimes parts 
stand on end. Not a problem reheat it and push it down. Things don't 
always go perfectly on thru-hole either. Don Wilhelm helps people nearly 
every day with problems that turn out to be soldering related on K2's. 
They happen to everyone. Not a big problem.


BTW, notice that the solder paste on the IC is not carefully applied to 
each pad. Instead, the solder is applied ACROSS the pins in two lines. 
When it goes molten, the surface tension positions the parts and draws 
up any solder bridges onto the pads. Doesn't always work, but I've done 
some large ICs that way without solder bridges. When it happens, dab the 
connection with an iron and the bridge disappears. Safe and easy.


I understand not everyone has the eyesight or dexterity for it, and not 
for all sizes of SMDs. I avoid the very small stuff as do most hams who 
use SMD. Amateur radio is about new technical challenges whether 
building or operating. This is a very accessible and useful skill that 
can be acquired with inexpensive tools and a little practice.


Eric KE6US

On 6/6/2019 1:31 PM, Al Lorona wrote:

  1/ It always seemed to me that this method heats up the components much more 
than using a simple soldering iron, where you can pause between soldering each 
pad to allow heat to dissipate.

2/ Is that a capacitor standing up at about the 1:12 mark? Not good.

Al  W6LX

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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Kit

[EricJ]

Yes, pretty easy, but not true that it takes any special or expensive 
soldering station to do quality SMD work.


In the winter months I do a lot of SMD work. I don't have a quality 
soldering station at all. I use solder paste from a small syringe, cheap 
tweezers, a $2 coffee cup warmer (WalMart), a small $25 heat gun used by 
scrapbook crafters (Michael's), and a regular desk magnifier lamp. For a 
few parts, I use tweezers and my regular Hakko soldering iron with a 
pencil point. Here's a video of the technique I've been using for nearly 
10 years of the 62 years I've been a ham.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0OKuxPiGKs

If the link doesn't appear, google SMT Soldering Movie on youtube.

A K1-level SMD kit would be no problem for anyone capable of attacking a 
thru-hole K1 or K2, but Wayne clearly addressed that possibility, and 
rightly so. The K1 may be dead, but not soon forgotten.


Eric KE6US

K1 s/n 1976

K2 s/n 567


On 6/6/2019 10:50 AM, James Doty wrote:

SMD soldering is actually pretty easy.  It does take a good quality
soldering station to do it though.

Yes, I need magnification when soldering surface mount components. :)

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Re: [Elecraft] K4

[EricJ]

I guess all those XYL's waiting to run off with Raoul to Costa Rica and 
live off hubby's K3S "investments" are going to be disappointed.


Eric KE6US

On 5/16/2019 12:23 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Reporting live from Chicago, en route to the Hamvention Yes, Schrödinger's 
cat is out of the bag :)

Apologies for the web page glitch. Someone found it before it was ready. It’ll 
be back up tomorrow morning.

If you managed to place a reservation already, please email sa...@elecraft.com 
to confirm.

More later—

Wayne
N6KR
  




elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Prospective K4

[EricJ]

K1's often go for more than they cost as a new kit.

K2's have held there value very well.

Wait til you find out your kids usually throw all your ham gear in a 
dumpster when you go permanent QRT.


Eric KE6US

On 5/5/2019 1:19 PM, Doug Hensley wrote:

Has anyone got a good handle on how much the value of a K3 dropped after the 
K3S had established itself ?

If so, what can we expect the average value of a K3S to drop once a K4 has spread 
its wings & shared its eggs ?   And how much further down in value is that 
going to push the venerable old K3?

To me the wishful thinking about a K4 is disconcerting.  That much of my investment is 
going to go "poof" when a new model suddenly hits the market gives me cause to 
wonder if I knew what I was doing in the first place.  YMMV but  clairvoyant predictions 
are welcome  

Doug W5JV






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Re: [Elecraft] Modularity

[EricJ]

For me, that would be ham radio hell. My ideal radio has knobs. A big 
one for tuning, little ones for other things. Knobs and buttons. I'm not 
knocking Flex at all, but if that were the only radio or all radios 
worked like that, I'd just do woodworking.


Some people like tuning. Some people like point-and-shoot. Knobs for the 
former, panadapters for the latter. Don W3FPR lamented earlier that hams 
no longer seem to know how to wire up a simple cable with a different 
connector at each end. I lament that hams no longer seem to be able to 
tune or enjoy the experience.


I think Elecraft understands both kinds of hams.

Eric KE6US

On 4/17/2019 12:30 PM, Allan Zadiraka wrote:

I agree with Victor's comments.  I am all in favor of the elimination of
the all-in-one, big box rigs.  No vendor in the amateur radio market can be
the premiere supplier in all areas even though Elecraft is trying hard. I
don't consider them the best panadapter HMI vendor or best paddle
manufacturer.  What I would consider ideal is a rig, computer, and other
"boxes" which sit behind or below the operating desk (or at a remote
site).  On the desk, a keyboard, mouse and/or trackball, an advanced KPod
with a few more knobs and customizable LCD keys for the major rig control
and antenna  functions and monitor(s) for the waterfall, frequency
readouts, SWR/POWER indicators, RF waveform display and logging displays.

An enclosure to corral all the miscellaneous "boxes" and their wiring would
also be nice.


zeke, ab8oou





On Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 1:13 AM Vic Rosenthal  wrote:


All this talk about onboard computers (or not) and operating systems in
the K4 has me thinking.
My K3 is serial no. 0007. I have had it since the beginning, and with a
few simple upgrades, it is almost as capable as a new K3S. But the
computers I had back then are long gone.
What I would like to have in the K4 is a backplane architecture. The
entire radio except for a control head would be located on plugin boards
that could be swapped out easily for testing, customizing, or upgrading.
The ENTIRE radio. The K3 goes in this direction, but not far enough.
One of the options would be an onboard computer. You could use the rig
without it or with an external computer if you wish. Maybe it would come
with some version of Linux, but you could put another version of Linux or
Windows on it if you wanted. You could upgrade it easily when it became
obsolete.
Yes, this would cost more. But with the savings available from modern
automated surface mount construction, maybe it’s possible.

Victor 4X6GP
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[Elecraft] Rework Eliminator Gone in 5 minutes

[EricJ]

Free Rework Eliminator "sold" in 5 minutes. Free really works!

Eric KE6US

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[Elecraft] FREE: Rework Eliminators

[EricJ]

Rework Eliminators

K2 Un-Module Header PCB Kit

Unused. Original Documentation

Here's a review by VE3WDM explaining what they are:

http://elecraftk2.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_27.html

Free, including free shipping, to first one to claim it. A way of paying 
back the list for recently my recently posted (and quickly sold) items.


Eric KE6US

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Re: [Elecraft] Technical question on keying of an SDR radio

[EricJ]

Not to worry, Victor. The really important part of generating and 
demodulating CW happens in your head.


Eric KE6US

On 4/9/2019 3:08 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
Oh no! NOW you tell me that all these years that I have believed that 
I have been operating CW, it's really SSB!


(Disclaimer to avoid the otherwise inevitable explanations that a pure 
audio tone transmitted via SSB is identical with CW: I know that).


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


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[Elecraft] T1 aznd LP-PAN Sold

[EricJ]

The T1 and LP-PAN have been sold.

XG3 still available.

Thanks to Elecraft reflector for making this possible.

Eric KE6US

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Re: [Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 Panadapter with Z10000 for K2

[EricJ]

Hi Paul,

I'm sorry. I haven't received any emails except this one. The LP-PAN is 
available. I'll hold it for you until you can make a decision.


Please let me know what you posted in the other emails so I can answer 
any questions.


Use this gmail address until I can figure out what happened with 
eric_c...@hotmail.com


Eric KE6US

On 4/7/2019 9:35 AM, Paul Gacek wrote:

Eric

I am interested and have emailed you a couple of times off list as you 
suggested.


If the items are sold please let me know.

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA
www.nomadic.blog <http://www.nomadic.blog>


On Apr 6, 2019, at 3:40 PM, EricJ <mailto:eric.c...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Originally an LP-PAN, but upgraded to LP-PAN 2.
No extraneous holes or mods.

Includes:
LP-PAN 2
Z1 buffer amp optimized for K2
BNC-SMA cable to connect K2 to LP-PAN
Manual pdf's on DVD

Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zRkmEw7V8ztjrALM8

See telepostinc.com for easy installation, current software and sound 
card recommendations.


$150 including priority mail shipping to US only.

Paypal preferred to email below. Ships immediately after payment is 
received.


Contact me off-list. Semi-active on this list for years. Current info 
at QRZ.com.


Eric KE6US
eric_c...@hotmail.com

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[Elecraft] LP-PAN 2 Panadapter with Z10000 for K2

[EricJ]

Originally an LP-PAN, but upgraded to LP-PAN 2.
No extraneous holes or mods.

Includes:
LP-PAN 2
Z1 buffer amp optimized for K2
BNC-SMA cable to connect K2 to LP-PAN
Manual pdf's on DVD

Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zRkmEw7V8ztjrALM8

See telepostinc.com for easy installation, current software and sound 
card recommendations.


$150 including priority mail shipping to US only.

Paypal preferred to email below. Ships immediately after payment is 
received.


Contact me off-list. Semi-active on this list for years. Current info at 
QRZ.com.


Eric KE6US
eric_c...@hotmail.com

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[Elecraft] Selling T1 and XG3

[EricJ]

Elecraft T1 Antenna Tuner
$120 incl. priority mail shipping.
Used with dozens of QRP kits which I no longer build.
Once used with my K2/10 when the internal KAT2 went Tango Uniform on a 
camping trip. Very versatile. Fast, tiny and tough. Includes original 
printed manual.


Elecraft XG3 RF Signal Source
$170 incl. priority mail shipping.
Used on the bench under computer control until I replaced it with a more 
suitable bench signal generator (larger...with knobs). Used it to align 
K1, K2, and a variety of boat anchor receivers. Includes special serial 
cable and original printed manual.


Both units purchased factory assembled. Excellent condition.

Photos at:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ngv6h2DuvnaFpSUi9

Free priority mail shipping to US only.

Paypal preferred to email below. Ships immediately after payment is 
received.


Contact me off-list. Semi-active on this list for years. Current info at 
QRZ.com.


Eric KE6US
eric_c...@hotmail.com


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Re: [Elecraft] PS Comparison: Powerwerz SS-30DV vs. MFJ-4230MVP

[EricJ]

I've had the SPS-30DM for 7 or 8 years. I use it to power a K2/10 and 
K2/100 plus all the external accessories. Quiet, absolutely solid as a 
brick. It replaced an old Astron RM-20A which would make a nice foot 
warmer and massager. Very happy the the SPS and Powerwerx in general. I 
buy nearly all my 12v power connectors from them.


Eric KE6US

On 3/13/2019 8:38 PM, Pete Spotts wrote:

Hi Bob,

I have a Powerwerx supply, but my model is the SPS-30DM. Variable 
voltage, useful digital meter displaying voltage and current, and I've 
had no noise problems with it. It's another $50 above the SS-30DV's 
price, but I have no doubt noise will not be an issue with the model 
you listed.


With best regards,

Pete
--

Peter N. Spotts -- NM5PS
ARRL Public Information Coordinator, New Mexico Section
http://www.nm5ps.net   Email: nm...@arrl.net | Skype: pspotts
AMSAT #40612 | CalQRP #67 | G-QRP #13202 | NAQCC #2446 | NEQRP #714
Polar Bear #348 | QCWA #34679 | QRP-ARCI #4174 | SKCC #4853S

On 3/13/19 11:08 AM, krug261--- via Elecraft wrote:

Greetings all,
I am in the market for a compact power supply. The fact that Elecraft 
suggests/sells a third-party unit (SS-30DV) provides an automatic 
sense of comfort. However, always trying to complicate life I was 
also looking at the MFJ-4230MVP. Same dimensions, weight, power 
connections. I do like the variable voltage control on the MFJ. Not 
sure why I would need it, but seems useful.
I doubt if anyone has BOTH units, but even your impressions of either 
of them would be very helpful.

Thanks and 73, Bob KA2TQVKX3 #9842
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with KPA_100

[EricJ]

The EC2 is remarkably easy to clone. It's all straight cuts and four 
simple bends. I did it with the inexpensive Harbor Freight 8" 
shear/brake. The 2D connectors are simple and ingenious, but very very 
tedious to make. I just used long rails made from 1/4" square aluminum 
stock and tapped them for the 4-40 screws. Much easier to keep all the 
holes aligned


https://photos.app.goo.gl/kIbG8fpYGRHEUyzS2

I agree with Jim. "If you like to build, go for it!"

Eric KE6US


On 12/21/2018 9:19 AM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Unfortunately, the EC2 enclosure is no longer available, so a future KPA100 will have to 
be mounted to the K2, and that does not allow the use of the KAT-2 tuner, but you could 
roll your own enclosure to get the "Twins". In that configuration, the K2 can 
have the KAT-2 installed, although I have two top covers and am currently using the 
unpopulated one with only the KIO2 and speaker installed.

If you like to build, go for it!

73, Jim KO5V



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Re: [Elecraft] Rights

[EricJ]

Not true. Officers pledge an oath to defend the Constitution. Enlisted 
also swear to obey orders from the President. I won't post again to this 
thread.


Eric KE6US

"I, (state name of enlistee), do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will support and 
defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic; 
that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; and that I will obey the orders 
of the President of the United States and the orders of the officers appointed over me, 
according to regulations and the Uniform Code of Military Justice. So help me God."


I ___, do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will support and defend the 
Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic; 
that I will bear true faith and allegiance to the same; that I take this 
obligation freely, without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion; and 
that I will well and faithfully discharge the duties of the office on which I 
am about to enter. So help me God.



On 8/15/2018 7:58 PM, kevinr wrote:

My rights come directly from God.

The Constitution of the United States delineates which rights I have 
given up to be governed.


Any person serving in the United States military service makes an 
oath, not to the President, but to the Constitution of the United 
States of America.


I do not have to agree with anything a person says but I do 
acknowledge they have every right to say it.


Many people have fought and died for this right to be maintained.

That is why we live here and enjoy the freedoms we have gained.

   Respectfully,

   Kevin. KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

[EricJ]

A urologist in my town had "PPMD" on his Porsche about 40 years ago. 
Long ago retired.


Eric KE6US (not vanity)


On 7/16/2018 2:28 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:

My all time favorite is still "4X4X8"

It was on a Honda Accord...

(the measurements of "a 'cord'" of firewood).

In the far distant past, the plate on a Datsun read "Dashes"... CW op 
obviously


Rick nhc


On 7/16/2018 12:41 PM, Jeff Stai wrote:

Years ago I was working with a catering dept at a hotel to set up a
conference. I met the new manager named Kate, and it was decided to
continue the meeting over lunch. We walked to where her car was 
parked and
I noticed her Ohio license plate: K8WYT. I asked, "Oh, are you an 
amateur

radio operator?" She said, "No. That's me. Kate White."

73 jeff wk6i

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:41 AM, Jim - N4ST  wrote:

Years ago, during the 70's gas rationing in Maryland, I found I 
could get

gas on either odd or even days with my AA3O license plate.

73,
Jim - N4ST

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 


On Behalf Of Rose
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 12:56
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Call letter license plate trivia

Montana has a $25 vanity plate fee, regardless of what the plate 
"says",

-but- ham radio plates are exempt.

BUT … I had a very difficult time convincing the local county folks 
that

my "K0PP" plates were -not- the usual vanity plate they were used to
issuing.  It took a 200 mile trip to the state motor vehicle office 
with a
copy of the Callbook and the FCC Part 97 in hand to get the matter 
resolved.


At the time the prison tag shop foreman was a ham.  They had no 
slant zero
die and he made my first plate by hand with a strip of tape across a 
zero.

He told me I was the first "zero" plate they had made … the die they
subsequently purchased cost $97.

Montana renews a plate with an adhesive expiration date sticker and 
does

not issue a new plate each year.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] Deleting OT

[EricJ]

Since I only own a K1 and a couple of K2s, the vast majority of posts on 
this list are OT to me. A few filters in Thunderbird allow me to see the 
legacy stuff and the OT stuff keeps the Elecraft community together when 
there are no Elecraft specific posts. That helps ensure the Elecraft 
brain trust is there when "on topic" answers are needed.


Eric KE6US


On 6/16/2018 11:24 AM, Bert Craig wrote:

Amen! Censorship STINKS! (No matter how you attempt to sugar-coat it.) Imagine 
coming across a QSO in PROGRESS that doesn't interest you and asking the ops to 
go QRT rather than QSYing? Smh...

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI

-Original Message-
From: Ronald Genovesi 
To: Walter Underwood 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Sat, 16 Jun 2018 14:15
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Deleting OT

Really Guys?  Is the delete key on your keyboard that hard to find and push?  
This whole thread should have been labeled “OT"

  Ron Genovesi
  n3...@coastside.net






On Jun 16, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Walter Underwood  wrote:

One approach is to have two lists. An elecraft-announce list would only allow 
posts from Elecraft. It might allow some moderated posts. An elecraft-discuss 
list would be like the current list.

This was a common convention when I first started following email lists 35 
years ago.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)


On Jun 16, 2018, at 8:42 AM, Don Wilhelm mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:

Tom,

As far as I know, there is no way to do that for digests.  But if you are 
downloading the digest to your computer and not wanting it on your smartphone 
or other web based application, then read on.

If you have an email client on your computer, IMHO subscribing to the digest is 
a cumbersome way to view the Elecraft email list.
Subscribe to individual emails.
Create a folder in your email client for the Elecraft emails.
Set a filter to place all incoming emails with [Elecraft] into that folder.
Presto -- you have your own digest on your computer.

If you do not want to see the OT posts, simply create a filter to place anything with 
"OT" into into your trash.

Mozilla Thunderbird works nicely and is free - multiplatform as well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/16/2018 11:20 AM, Thomas Schaefer wrote:

While inevitably I will hear from people that I should just click hit the 
DELETE key, I get the digest form of this email list. One cannot really delete 
only the OT posts when using the digest.
Does anyone know if there is a way to have the qth.net list software 
automatically remove posts that start with OT in the subject?
I subscribe to this list to get information about the Elecraft line of 
equipment (KPA1500 is the latest). I am not sure if it is boredom or lack of 
other outlets that folks believe they can post things that have absolutely 
nothing to do with Elecraft. For the record, as I have been in the Elecraft dog 
house before for mentioning this, I am not suggesting what people should post.
I am asking a legitimate question if anyone knows a way I could mercifully make 
it stop—short of unsubscribing and losing the actual useful content otherwise. 
I suspect I could switch to individual emails and simply setup a rule to 
automatically delete anything that starts with OT. Then just delete posts by 
people that post things unrelated to Elecraft.
Thanks in advance if anyone knows a way to do that for digests.

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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Color code memory aid ...

[EricJ]

...for gold, silver or nothing.

Just adding the 5, 10 and 20% tolerance colors.

Eric KE6US


On 6/15/2018 5:25 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

>From the distant past ...

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly ...

73!

K0PP



On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 18:13 Fred Jensen  wrote:


OK, cool!  I'd like to see it work.  While I have a lot of respect for
design folk, and especially those who design the super easy websites to
use where you find what you need, do it, leave, and your coffee is still
hot, the Mech E's who can visualize in 3D with motion astound me.  I
understand the multiple reels of feedstock.  It's the "remove the parts
from the tape" part that I find hard, that tape was really sticky. [:-)

Every time I've asked my wife to tell me the colors on a resistor, even
after I tell her, "They're all supposed to be preschool colors," I still
get, "Well, sort of reddish-orange ... might be a little pink too."

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/15/2018 4:43 PM, GaryK9GS wrote:

Hi Fred,
It's called a sequencer.  Individual reels of tape and reel axial parts

are loaded in the sequencer.  So there would be an entire reel of 10k
resistors, a separate reel of 100k, separate reel of diodes, etc.

The sequencer then removes the parts from the tape and creates a new

tape with the parts in the proper order and count.  The sequencer my
company used to have would also measure the value of the part and reject it
if it wasn't in the tolerance window.

I hope that all makes sense...
Surface mount is oh so much easier.  We have 9 surface mount lines and

rarely use the axial through hole inserter these days.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure

[EricJ]

I traded a 75A2 for a new 6m Gooney III in 1960. I worked nothing but 6m 
for the next two years until I went in the Army in 1962.


Spent many a night on SF's Twin Peaks with that radio. One of my 
happiest times in ham radio. I'm pretty sure 50.125 was calling 
frequency then too. The band was all AM. CW was rare. SSB was mostly 
non-existent.


Eric


On 6/2/2018 12:46 PM, Bob wrote:

And the yellow 6 meter "Gooney box" borrowed from CD.

Well still not wealthy but maybe I should upgrade and put together the 
Johnson 6N2 new in the box kit that rests in the basement.


73,
Bob
K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) and K2TKR

On 6/2/2018 3:10 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Yep, that Heath Sixer was quite a rig.  If you were wealthy, you 
could move up to a Johnson 6N2. [:-)


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/2/2018 10:01 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

I have been on 6M since 1956.  Ahhh those were the days.
Mel, K6KBE



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Options Advice

[EricJ]

None at all. Add what you want at any time after the initial build. 
You'll have a better idea what you actually want after playing with the 
base K2 for awhile.


Eric KE6US


On 5/24/2018 11:44 AM, AE0MM via Elecraft wrote:

I'm planning to build a K2/10 with the following options:
KNB2
KAT2
KAF2

Is there any disadvantage to building the base K2, then adding the options 
later?

Thanks,
--ae0mm
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Re: [Elecraft] Samuel Morse's birthday (Friday, April 27th); good excuse to break out your old hand keys

[EricJ]

True, but without the promotion and entrepreneurship of Morse, Vail 
would likely not have developed the machines and code, and would have 
just been another guy puttering in the family machine shop. Both made it 
happen, but Morse was the face that people saw when the invention was 
demonstrated.


Eric KE6US


On 4/27/2018 10:50 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Ahh yes, if life were fair, it would be the American Vail Code. Unlike 
Sam, Alfred had access to the family machine shop, was an accomplished 
machinist, and could build just about anything.  He even crafted his 
code so the most prevalent letters in English have the shortest codes.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 INFO 232

[EricJ]

OK, thanks, Don. As I said, I went into this perfectly happy with how 
the K2 is performing. I have SN 6911 right beside it and find no 
discernible difference between the two. Both are solid. I just wanted to 
verify the alignment after 13 years of use and refamiliarize myself with 
the internals.


Eric KE6US



On 4/19/2018 9:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Erik,

Your K2 has the A to B updates, do NOT put X2 in!
For Firmware level 2.01 and above, CAL PLL is done only on 40 meters 
(for all bands).  If attempted on other bands, you will get an INFO 
232 error.


Use the information in the newer manual - the older manual has 
information *only* applicable to K2s that have not been upgraded.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2018 10:18 PM, EricJ wrote:
I have K2 SN 567. I didn't really have a problem with it, but I 
bought it used in 2005, had W3FPR look at it then, and install latest 
mods to bring it up to date. Today, I thought it might be time to 
take a look at alignment, and freshen it up a bit.


When I did the "PLL Ref Osc Range Test" in Alignment Part II, the 
range was slightly less than 6 kHz. When I got to "VFO 
Linearization", 40 meters was fine without any INFO messages.


I was using the original Rev B manual (not related to RevB board) 
that came with it. Under Part III, Alignment and Test there is 
another "VFO Linearization (All Bands)". I did that and every band 
failed (INFO 232) except 40 meters. And of course, in the Rev B 
manual, there is no INFO 232 only 235. Anyway, I checked around Q19 
as the Troubleshooting suggested and found X1, but no X2. After 
reading the circuit operation, I was convinced somehow X2 got left 
out. Since it was supposed to be there to prevent the very short 
range problem I thought I was experiencing, I thought I had found the 
problem.


I emailed Elecraft to order X2, and got a nice note from Mike saying 
they would send one out no charge. That kind of service still amazes 
me. But I told him to hold off until I can hear from this group.


I checked my other K2 manual (I also have SN 6911), and, first, it 
does not have a procedure for VFO linearization on anything but 40 
meters. In fact, it says INFO 232 probably occurred because I wasn't 
on 40m. And the parts lists says X2 is not used!


I went into this without having any actual problem or complaint. The 
old manual convinced me I did. The later Rev I manual says I might, 
but didn't know it. I'm supposed to have a PLL range of 9.8 to 15 
kHz. I have 5.97 kHz.


So if that is a problem, the problem is associated with Q19 which is 
a very simple stage. X1 is probably the most likely cause. Any ideas?


Also, since two crystals were originally used to "de-Q one another to 
increase the tuning range", what was done to make two crystals 
unnecessary?


Thanks for any help,
Eric KE6US


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[Elecraft] K2 INFO 232

[EricJ]

I have K2 SN 567. I didn't really have a problem with it, but I bought 
it used in 2005, had W3FPR look at it then, and install latest mods to 
bring it up to date. Today, I thought it might be time to take a look at 
alignment, and freshen it up a bit.


When I did the "PLL Ref Osc Range Test" in Alignment Part II, the range 
was slightly less than 6 kHz. When I got to "VFO Linearization", 40 
meters was fine without any INFO messages.


I was using the original Rev B manual (not related to RevB board) that 
came with it. Under Part III, Alignment and Test there is another "VFO 
Linearization (All Bands)". I did that and every band failed (INFO 232) 
except 40 meters. And of course, in the Rev B manual, there is no INFO 
232 only 235. Anyway, I checked around Q19 as the Troubleshooting 
suggested and found X1, but no X2. After reading the circuit operation, 
I was convinced somehow X2 got left out. Since it was supposed to be 
there to prevent the very short range problem I thought I was 
experiencing, I thought I had found the problem.


I emailed Elecraft to order X2, and got a nice note from Mike saying 
they would send one out no charge. That kind of service still amazes me. 
But I told him to hold off until I can hear from this group.


I checked my other K2 manual (I also have SN 6911), and, first, it does 
not have a procedure for VFO linearization on anything but 40 meters. In 
fact, it says INFO 232 probably occurred because I wasn't on 40m. And 
the parts lists says X2 is not used!


I went into this without having any actual problem or complaint. The old 
manual convinced me I did. The later Rev I manual says I might, but 
didn't know it. I'm supposed to have a PLL range of 9.8 to 15 kHz. I 
have 5.97 kHz.


So if that is a problem, the problem is associated with Q19 which is a 
very simple stage. X1 is probably the most likely cause. Any ideas?


Also, since two crystals were originally used to "de-Q one another to 
increase the tuning range", what was done to make two crystals unnecessary?


Thanks for any help,
Eric KE6US


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Re: [Elecraft] Art of Electronics

[EricJ]

It doesn't seem to be well-known but many pdf documents are searchable. 
That's the case with this one. I have a bound and severely dog-earred 
Second Edition, but this pdf is going to make it even more useful. 
Ctrl-F brings up the search box like it always does. Enter text (not 
text in illustrations) and it finds it almost instantly.


Eric KE6US
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[EricJ]

And you can still warm pies over the KPA500.

Eric KE6US


On 3/26/2018 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and 
save some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - 
and I'm very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also 
interested in stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendations -- Fluke 179?

[EricJ]

I have HB's top-of-the line autoranger for less than $40 and the next 
one down which is not autoranging for less than $25. One for the 
electronic shop and one for the garage. I build a LOT of electronic 
stuff and find them completely adequate for hobby level work. I only use 
AC/DC volts, amps, milliamps and resistance. I don't use any of the 
other functions. I have better, specialized tools to take care of the rest.


BTW, you have to CAREFULLY research Fluke features. They make so many 
different models with feature sets aimed at particular professions. 
There are some that look great for ham use, but when you dig into the 
features they don't even have a milliamp range!


No matter what meter you use, I don't think you should ever go in for a 
measurement unless you have already estimated or calculated what you 
expect to see. A weird reading could be caused by a circuit problem, 
test equipment failure or a lack of understanding of the circuit 
operation. Making a stab at it on paper first, makes it a lot easier to 
eliminate two of those.


Eric KE6US


On 3/19/2018 9:06 AM, David Fleming via Elecraft wrote:

+1 for the inexpensive offerings from Harbor Freight. I have several of these 
cheap knock offs. They’re certainly not professional grade instruments, but 
they are more than adequate for hobbiest level work. I use a small CEN-TECH 
model for quick voltage, resistance and current measurents.  It works well and 
was actually FREE with a coupon. The readings are very close to my trusty, much 
more expensive, Fluke 79.
David, W4SMT

On Monday, March 19, 2018, 11:33 AM, Dave Heil  wrote:

In the past, I had Fluke and Beckman meters and, in my days in
industrial electronic sales, I sold both of them.

In recent years, I've become a fan of the Chinese-made copies at Harbor
Freight.  They have the functions but not the price.  At $19.99, I was
able to buy a couple of them--one for the shack and one for the barn.
You might give them a look before throwing money at the market leaders.

73,

Dave K8MN


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT?] Changing which hand you send with

[EricJ]

I tried it 30 years ago so I could hold a pencil with my dominant (left) 
hand and not have to put it down when keying with my right.  It took a 
couple evenings to get back up to speed. Keep it symmetrical. If your 
sending dots with your right thumb, swap the paddle lead so you're 
sending dots with your left hand. Your brain can deal with it a lot 
easier. I can switch from right handed to left handed bug with  equal ease.


The same isn't true with a straight key, though. I have never been able 
to send right handed with a straight key but have no problem with 20 wpm 
with my left. Different skill.


It's very easy to give it a try. I think you'll be surprised.

Eric KE6US


On 3/18/2018 5:50 PM, kevinr wrote:
Have any of you attempted changing dominant hands?  My left hand has 
very few broken bones in it and rarely has the pain I have in my right 
one.  How difficult would it be to learn to send with my non-dominant 
hand?  I came very close to giving up CW a few years ago when I had 
nerve damage in my right arm.  I have gotten marginally better since 
then but hate hurting peoples' ears with my sending.  A friend of mine 
was able to learn to bow her cello left handed and went on to 
Juilliard.  But I don't have anywhere near her skills.  Any thoughts 
you may have for my dilemma?

   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] 2D Fasteners

[EricJ]

I bet they're proprietary to Elecraft, but I don't know that for sure. 
Easy to make if you have a drill press, hacksaw and 4-40 drill and tap. 
Hard to make without. If you make them, observe and measure very 
carefully. The holes are not centered on the block. They're offset ~1 mm 
from centerline. I forget exact dimensions. Be exact.


Eric KE6US


On 3/16/2018 11:12 AM, G4GNX wrote:

Does anyone know where I can buy a small quantity of the 2D Fasteners that hold 
Elecraft cases together? These are the aluminum blocks with 2 threaded holes on 
one pair of sides and 1 threaded hole in the other pair of sides.

Is there an alternative name for them? I tried Google and came up with nothing.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] March 2018 Newsletter

[EricJ]

I used my K2 as a VFO for a Drake 2NT boat anchor transmitter for quite 
awhile. Worked great while I worked on a real one that fit the character 
of boat anchors better--the K2 version was lacking sufficient drift and 
chirp to be convincing. I modified a Siltronix (Swan) CB VFO to fit the 
bill.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/QfoK1uiRQDHZ86Cj1

Should do well for you as a signal generator.

Eric KE6US


On 3/15/2018 6:32 PM, Jan wrote:
Oh WOW  ~ I like the article by Wayne, N6KR*/Extreme QRPp using the 
KX2, KX3, K3, or K3S/*


Via this technique I (we) can use the "unit" as a Signal Generator . . 
. . as I'm in need of "that" just now, while troubleshooting my 
Genesis G59 MKIII sdr transceiver kit


Thanks Wayne !

Cheers, Jan K1ND
//*//*

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Re: [Elecraft] Wanted - EC2 enclosure

[EricJ]

They aren't difficult to build. I made a couple with an inexpensive 8" 
shear/brake and a drill press. You can see some of the details in this 
google album.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/kIbG8fpYGRHEUyzS2

If you don't have the equipment, they shouldn't be very expensive to 
have made as Alan suggested.


I made one change. Instead of a lot of fiddly (but very clever) little 
blocks to cut, drill and tap, I make them as four long rails of 1/4" 
square stock. That resulted in tradeoffs that made it only marginally 
easier than making all the blocks. For one, all the holes had to be that 
much more accurately placed on the rails.


Eric KE6US


On 3/10/2018 8:28 AM, Paul Wilton wrote:

Does anyone have an EC2 enclosure surplus to requirements that they would be 
willing to sell?  The EC2 is now discontinued and I’m looking for one to mount 
a KPA100 into.



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Re: [Elecraft] IFR1500 Service Monitor For Sale

[EricJ]

Usain Bolt ran 100 yards in slightly less than 10 seconds so 0.1 Hz can 
be accurately measured with a stopwatch.


Eric KE6US


On 3/8/2018 5:44 PM, Gary Baker wrote:

I have an IFR1500 Service monitor for sale--$3,300 plus shipping cost.  This
service monitor is in great condition with a new attenuator and center
frequency meter.  It has the high accuracy time base and can measure
frequencies down to

.1 Hz!  Photos available upon request.  73's, Gary-K7EMF

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Re: [Elecraft] FT 8

[EricJ]

Here ya go. SV5DKL has done exactly that. This AE5X blog entry is two 
months ago.


http://ae5x.blogspot.com/2018/01/video-fully-automated-ft8-qsos.html

Who knows? Hams might have to go back to homebrewing as a hobby.

Eric KE6US



On 3/3/2018 3:57 PM, William Levy wrote:

As an old dog I am sorry to see that FT8 has become all the rage.
I grew up with a few vacuum tubes and a dipole. AM carrier controlled, 5
tube receivers. Loved CW when I had very little. Love SSB with big antennas
and towers.

FT8 changes the game. No more rag chews. So this is what DX has become. No
big power, no big antennas. Someone will write an app that will tell the
radio to keep calling cq and log contacts. V.2 of the App will record new
prefixes and club log it.

I may feel critical as I write this but the future is not mine and all is
fair in love and war.

Sincerely, Bill N2WL
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature suggestion: Power setting in dBm

[EricJ]

My guess is the average ham doesn't have the slightest concept of dBw 
nor would it seem intuitive if they did. Cranking a knob isn't all that 
onerous. Even those of us who use dBw regularly on the bench, just pick 
one or a couple output powers that they use. In my case, 90% of the time 
it's 5w, occasionally 20w and sometimes 100w. And there the knob sits 
without further change.


We had similar discussions in the automotive industry. Not about units 
of measure, but methods of displaying useful information. When 
instrument panels started using digital displays for a few things, we 
discovered that they were useful for things like vehicle speed, but they 
were disasters for tachometers and engine monitoring or a binary "idiot 
light".  They work for vehicle speed because you are seeking to maintain 
a specific speed flashed at you periodically on road signs. But we don't 
use tachometers that way. We're looking for ranges and trends of engine 
speed, not a specific number. Same with engine monitoring. We just want 
to glance and see it is within range. A digital display makes you have 
to think. You shouldn't have to think about water temperature and oil 
pressure. In racing, we simplified everything even more. We rotated the 
gauges so the needle always pointed straight up on every gauge when it 
was centered on the desired range.


There are times when a linear controls and displays works fine and times 
when a log controls and displays are more meaningful. Virtually everyone 
intuitively understands linear versions. Hardly anyone intuitively 
understands logarithmic versions, esp. these days without slide rules.


Eric KE6US


On 3/1/2018 3:46 PM, Steve Sergeant wrote:

I fail to see the need for a hundred steps between 0.1W and 10W on my
KX2, or steps between 1W and 100W on another radio. What difference is
it going to make to anybody whether you're at 71 vs. 74 watts? But a
1.5_dB or a 3_dB step? That's something I can use.


On 3/1/18 14:37 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

I fail to see the need, but if I had one I would just do in my head.
(and probably use dBW :-)

Wes  N7WS

On 3/1/2018 1:07 PM, Steve Sergeant wrote:

Here's a suggestion across the line, from the KX2 to the K3S:

I'd like to have the option to display and set transmit power in dBm
rather than linear watts. Conceptually, it makes more sense to me, and
it's a more meaningful number relating to S-units on the received side.

--... ...--
SteveSgt, KC6ZKT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 For Club Radio?

[EricJ]

It was designed to be a Field Day radio so no problem there.

It's a pretty easy radio for routine use.  You might have to set up some 
features via menus initially, but once set up the inexperienced ops 
should have no problems tuning, band changing, mode changing etc.


A great radio.

Eric KE6US


On 5/12/2017 3:45 PM, Tom Hellem wrote:

Our local radio club is considering the purchase of a K-2/100 to be
used as a club radio. Its primary useage will be as a contest radio for
events like Field Day, etc. I am looking for input from you list members
who have experience with the K-2 as to its suitability for this purpose.
I personally am not familiar with the radio and my concern would be
mainly in the area of ease-of-use for those operators who are not especially
experienced or knowledgeable  in using modern transceivers.

Thanks in advance for any input you might offer.

73
Tom Hellem
K0SN
Missoula, MT
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

[EricJ]

Not a chance. Frankly, as a K1 and K2 owner, all the *K-line* posts are 
OT to me. But there hasn't been an OT topic on this reflector that I 
didn't find informative. This is a very tech savvy and interesting 
group, and I value their input. It takes a long time to build a viable 
community of any kind. This one is mature and healthy.


I filter out everything with a specific K-line model number. When a new 
product is announced (like the KPA1500) it isn't filtered so I can learn 
something about it. I have never owned an amp in 60 years and chances 
are excellent I never will, but the product is still interesting--I read 
every post. At some point, I'll add it to my filter.


Why are filters so difficult to do that someone would think starting a 
new group would be easier?


This OT argument goes on in every single group from time to time. It's 
the ULTIMATE example of OT imaginable.


Eric KE6US


On 5/1/2017 5:05 AM, Michael Walker wrote:

Hi All

I am thinking of starting an Elecraft email forum that would focus only on
Elecraft equipment.

While I like this list for the Elecraft discussions, about 50% of it is
related to off topic items and they flood my inbox with hundreds of emails.

How many of you would be interested?

73 all, Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] PL259s

[EricJ]

Even more ironic if it was a Chinese company you never heard of.

Eric KE6US


On 10/11/2016 6:42 PM, W1GO (Joe) wrote:

Who do we think makes the DX Engineering connectors that are so loved?   DX 
doesn't manufacture them; they are private labeled by another manufacturer.  
Wouldn't it be ironic if it was Amphenol? Hi Hi.

Joe
W1GO


On Oct 11, 2016, at 20:00, Gary K9GS  wrote:

Hi Mark,

I have had very good results using the DX Engineering brand PL259's (solder 
type).

I have also heard from people I know and trust that the new "Next Generation" 
crimp connectors from DXE are excellent.  I look forward to trying them out when my 
current supply of Amphenol crimp connectors needs replenishment.




On 10/11/2016 12:39 PM, Mark Tosiello wrote:
HI,

I to have always used only Amphenol connectors. However, this year, in
putting up another Gap Challenger, I am using a DXE pl259 at the antenna
coax end. DXE connectors have worked well for me in the past in another
application, are silver plated brass and the dialectric is PTFE. I've
spoken to many hams who have had good results with them. I'm not affiliated
with DXE in any way, just a satisfied customer. Anyone else use DXE PL259s?

Mark KD8EDC


On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 1:11 PM, Keith Hutt  wrote:

Got to agree i only use Amphenol connectors, expensive in the UK but well
worth the extra money.

But i get mine when i am visiting Dayton, so a lot cheaper

Regards

Keith G0TSH





On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much

more loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of
dimensions -- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid
and reliable connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels,
tees, and elbows that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

When I got back on the air in 2003, I stocked my "junk box" with a lot
of these cheap connector adapters at ham flea markets, and over the next
3-5 years, they caused outright failures and intermittent problems that
were difficult to track down. At one point, I had added elbow connectors
in my shack to make cable routing cleaner. An hour into a contest
running legal limit, I saw SWR going sky high on an antenna, found the
elbow very hot to the touch. Removing it solved the problem. The tiny
spring had overheated. I've had these junk connectors fall apart
mechanically. I've had the dielectric in junk PL-259s melt when I
soldered the center conductor. And so on.

W3LPL advises to use Amphenol connectors exclusively, and to use only
83-1SP for PL-259s. I strongly agree with him. I know nothing about
what's available in EU -- my comments apply to North America.


73, Jim K9YC
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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

[EricJ]

Same with shoe sizes. I've gone from a Size 9 to a Size 11 and nothing I 
have related to shoe size got any bigger.


Eric KE6US


On 8/11/2016 9:17 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.
  However, you might be right on the speaker wire.  Maybe some "secret" wire
formula that is equivalent to 10 gauge. (HI)

Sorta like the ½ gallon of Ice cream that went from 1¾ to 1½ quarts.
Although they don't still CALL it a half gallon.  It just looks the same.

If you paid though pay-pal, just complain.  They side with the buyer 99% of
the time, so you'll more than likely, get you money back.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rick
jones via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 11:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The
conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is
wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true
10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
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Re: [Elecraft] Common mode chokes

[EricJ]

W8JI also describes one and how to calibrate it.

http://w8ji.com/building_a_current_meter.htm

Eric KE6US

On Tue,8/9/2016 1:56 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
Just wondering - short of +/- RF Burns and Audible Noice, can one 
readily

detect/measure Common Mode Current on a coax antenna feedline?




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Re: [Elecraft] Paint for EC-2 Enclosure

[EricJ]

I posted the same question a few days ago for an EC2 clone that I built. 
Most suggested I have an Elecraft panel scanned to order custom paint. 
That sort of flew in the face of building an EC2 clone to save money. I 
could have bought one for what it cost to order custom paint and apply it.


However, I had painted it with Krylon CoverMax 51318 gray ultra flat 
primer. Once it has thoroughly dried, you can buff it with a clean cloth 
to give it a slight satin look that's closer to the Elecraft finish and 
texture. It's not a close color match, but with the EC2 in amongst my 
two K2's and another factory painted EC2, the color difference doesn't 
show all that much in average hamshack lighting. Some day, I'd like to 
find a rattle can that is closer, but in the mean time, it looks decent 
and works fine.


In the photos here, the side panels are primer, but the top panel is an 
original factory-painted panel. Obviously, the front panel is 
unprimered. Worth a try in a pinch until we can find a better match.


https://flic.kr/p/KBivtc

Eric KE6US


On 8/8/2016 6:47 AM, Ken Miller K6CTW wrote:

All

I have an EC-2 that is getting ready to be built into a power-supply, speaker 
et. for my K2.  When the holes for the meters, speakers, switches, etc. are 
milled out in the front and back panels, there will undoubtedly be areas where 
the paint is removed that needs to be touched up.  Where can I get pain that 
would match the color/texture of the existing pain on that enclosure?

Thoughts and/or information from other's experience much appreciated.  Thanks 
in advance.

73 - Ken Miller, K6CTW
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Heathkit clocks are back!

[EricJ]

Given that we've heard "Heathkit has risen" [BentonHarbor 28:6]  monthly 
for the last 40 years, I'd want to hear from someone who actually 
ordered and received something before I sent any money. I''m not 
implying anything dishonest at all, but vaporware is vaporware.


In the mean time, I wish them all the luck in the world. My first rig 
was a DX-35 for my 15th birthday. It was sad to see them fall on hard times.


Eric KE6US

ex-KN1DCK


On 8/8/2016 9:03 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

Likely of interest to many of us.

www.heathkit.com
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Re: [Elecraft] 73CNC Knobs

[EricJ]

Wondering the same thing. I want one for my second K2, but no response 
whatsoever to several emails over a couple of months. Love the knob. 
Expensive, but makes the rig feel like it was made to tune instead of 
sit on a calling frequency.


Eric KE6US

On 8/3/2016 10:39 AM, Bob wrote:

Hi,

Looking for a 73CNC Deluxe Knob for the K3.  Not available on 
the web site and emails via their "contact us" link have gone 
unanswered.  Not sure even if this is still an active business.


 So anyone out there have a single main knob or a set that 
they might be willing to sell?


 TNX!

73,

Bob

K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Some "No Code" background

[EricJ]

I agree with this paragraph, Joe, however, I strongly disagree that a 
knowledge of CW at any speed is a reasonable or even a relevant standard 
for entry in the 21st Century. There is no evidence that a knowledge of 
CW makes a license holder better equipped to advance the state of the 
art either. Certainly the quality of some operators and their behavior 
is abhorrent, but it is more a reflection of the general population than 
it is lack of code proficiency. Furthermore, proof before an examiner of 
code proficiency doesn't say anything at all about a trained pool of 
operators, esp. in an age when nobody but hobbyists use code anymore. 
What are they training for?


The only reason for an FCC amateur license is to show you understand and 
will abide by the rules for emitting RF in the amateur radio spectrum. 
Evidence for that assertion is that the state of the art in computers 
and software is advanced by people including kids who don't have any 
license whatsoever. Same goes for astronomy or motorcycle racing or 
bicycle design. You name a hobby and most in it are not licensed by 
anyone to do it. They just do it.


So a higher standard for entry would involve a proof of understanding of 
Part 97, e.g. to show that the prospective licensee knows what emissions 
violations look like and has some clue as to how to resolve them. 
Testing them on the difference between a Colpitts and Harley oscillator 
is and probably always has been pointless.


BTW, I'm about 95% CW for going on 60 years. I haven't been on any voice 
mode for at least 10 years, but I do operate some JT9/JT65.  I got my 
first microphone 24 years after I was first license. I took exams for 
General, Advanced and Extra before FCC examiners on both coasts who all 
looked like Lou Grant.


A personal observation? Most of the ragchews I have on CW these days are 
with no code hams, many of them SKCC members. If a ham likes antennas, 
satellites, emcomm, CW or whatever, they will gravitate towards it when 
they get the license. The standard of entry is the ability to do it 
legally and ethically.


Eric KE6US


On 8/1/2016 3:51 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

As much as it pains me to say, we would arguably be better off with
fewer licensees and maintaining a reasonable standard for entry. There
is no credible evidence that amateurs can continue to advance the state
of the art and evidence to the contrary that the current license base
represents a trained pool of operators.  The quality of operators and
the behavior heard on the air today is abhorrent when judged by the
standards of 15 years ago.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

On 8/1/2016 5:18 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
I got one of the 1st Novice licenses issued ... in September, 1951.  
Took

the exam in Oklahoma City, where the FCC came only once per year.  My
"Elmer" was a retired Navy CW op and I was taught well.  Long ago I 
was a

commercial shipboard RO on a NOAA vessel.

I'm one of the six people who created the "no code" license.  In what I
consider one of the greatest honors in my Amateur Radio ... I 
-detest- the

name "ham" ... career the ARRL appointed me as one of the six members of
their No Code Study Committee.  BTW, each of us were / are die-hard CW
operators.

We we --told-- by the FCC that we would be getting some form of codeless
licensing and we should come up with something that most could live 
with.

Lots of "details" were covered over a year and a half of meetings,
conference calls, etc.

I still have a large box of pro and con correspondence in the attic.  
The

number of letters is about equally divided.

An example of the results ... yesterday I had a KE0 proudly tell me he'd
just passed his "expert" license, and, his radio emitted a multi-tone CB
"roger beep" each time he unkeyed his microphone.

Without the "no code" license we most likely wouldn't have Amateur Radio
with the record 750K licenses we have today, and there's political 
"safety

in numbers".

Please, let's not start a thread on the subject.  I just thought some
"first person" input would be of interest.

73

Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Crowdfunding a 1500 watt amp - SURVEY?

[EricJ]

Nice work, Ken. On the amps and the cars. I was wondering the same thing 
about "rolling your own". I suggested that doctor who said he could 
build pretty much what he wanted could build the enclosure. He owns an 
electronic lab which builds his stuff and farms the enclosures out to 
another professional. Not sure subcontracting is the Ham Spirit, but 
we're all in this hobby for different reasons.


Eric KE6US



On 8/1/2016 12:21 PM, Ken Arck wrote:

I'll just throw this out there

What ever happened to the Ham Spirit of rolling your own? With the new 
MOSFETS devices out, it is not that expensive (nor difficult) to "roll 
your own"


Here's what I did for 6 & 2 meters:

http://ah6le.net/index.php/vhf-solid-state-kilowatts

Ken
-- 


President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

[EricJ]

Ha ha. Yeah. Like I said, same as in life.

Eric KE6US


On 8/1/2016 9:54 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I wrote an epic poem on this subject :)  See:

 http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-poetry.html

Wayne
N6KR


On Aug 1, 2016, at 9:04 AM, EricJ <eric_c...@hotmail.com> wrote:


The point is dominance. If you are the strongest signal, the DX hears you 
better. If you are the strongest, you hear the DX better because everyone else 
stands by until you make the contact and go away. I lived among the legendary 
California Kilowatts when I was a DXer. Letting them in and letting them chat 
about their vacation at that location with the DX because they could was the 
only way you could work the DX eventually yourself. Same as in life.

Eric KE6US


On 8/1/2016 6:50 AM, Jerry Moore wrote:

I don't see the point of having a large power amp. It doesn't help receive.
My whole Ham life I've been told to put the money into antennas, better
feedlines, and a better receiver.
If you are a skilled operator then you'll make the contact if band
conditions permit.
Doing the math I really don't see why anyone "needs" an amp past
500-600watts. Maybe on 60/160?
If a QRP /Low power station can make the contact but you can't then maybe
you need to ask for help getting your station optimized a bit better.
Just my view.
I used to run an SB220 and loved it when I made the contact. I later came to
resent Ops I heard running power just to get over the pileup.
I sold the Amp and don't regret it for a minute. If I were to get another
amp the math shows 500w to be the sweet spot, however, I have so much
opportunity to improve feedlines and antenna it doesn't makes sense to run
power at this time.

Just my view.
Jer

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[Elecraft] EC2 Clone (Was The 1500 watt amp)

[EricJ]

If you can build whatever you want, you can easily build the enclosure. 
Here is an EC2 clone I built last week in about 6 hours. I made the side 
panels with a hacksaw, file and drill press. The front panel I cut and 
formed with an inexpensive 8" shear/brake. This one is branded Grizzly, 
but Harbor Freight has them as well. I didn't use the Elecraft 2D 
fasteners because I only had 2 on hand and didn't want to make a bunch 
of little fussy pieces. I used 4 long sections of 1/4" square aluminum 
stock and drilled them with the same hole pattern as the 2D fasteners. 
The front panel will get painted after I drill and punch it for the 
current project.


https://flic.kr/p/KBivtc

The smaller K1 enclosure is nearly the same design (slightly different 
top cover) so it scales down easily. It would scale up for a large amp 
just as easily. The cost of the EC2-clone was about $4 in materials 
(0.080" and 0.050" sheet and 1/4" bar stock). All can be built with a 
hacksaw, file and a hand drill. A bandsaw and a drill press make it more 
precise. A shear/brake makes it even easier.


Eric KE6US


On Aug 1, 2016, at 9:56 AM, Dr. William J. Schmidt, II 
 wrote:

The question of Elecraft building1500 watt amps has been settled, but there are 
those of us that can build pretty much whatever we want... and that includes me.


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Re: [Elecraft] The 1500 watt amp

[EricJ]

The point is dominance. If you are the strongest signal, the DX hears 
you better. If you are the strongest, you hear the DX better because 
everyone else stands by until you make the contact and go away. I lived 
among the legendary California Kilowatts when I was a DXer. Letting them 
in and letting them chat about their vacation at that location with the 
DX because they could was the only way you could work the DX eventually 
yourself. Same as in life.


Eric KE6US


On 8/1/2016 6:50 AM, Jerry Moore wrote:

I don't see the point of having a large power amp. It doesn't help receive.
My whole Ham life I've been told to put the money into antennas, better
feedlines, and a better receiver.
If you are a skilled operator then you'll make the contact if band
conditions permit.
Doing the math I really don't see why anyone "needs" an amp past
500-600watts. Maybe on 60/160?
If a QRP /Low power station can make the contact but you can't then maybe
you need to ask for help getting your station optimized a bit better.
Just my view.
I used to run an SB220 and loved it when I made the contact. I later came to
resent Ops I heard running power just to get over the pileup.
I sold the Amp and don't regret it for a minute. If I were to get another
amp the math shows 500w to be the sweet spot, however, I have so much
opportunity to improve feedlines and antenna it doesn't makes sense to run
power at this time.

Just my view.
Jer

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Re: [Elecraft] "Blue" topic list

[EricJ]

Same here, Don. All my groups, reflectors and normal email from 3 
accounts come into Thunderbird. Then I use Thunderbird to filter out 
what I know I don't care about. On this reflector, I filter out any 
mention of rigs I don't own or don't have any intention of owning. That 
leaves just a few posts a day now. The odd K1 or K2 post, and several OT 
posts. hi. It may be archaic, but it has worked for several decades for 
me. I see everything I want and nothing I don't. If somehow I miss 
something important, it will come back to haunt me. I don't have to go 
looking for it.


Eric KE6US


On 7/31/2016 5:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Steve,

If you mean URLs that are included as part of the post, then that is 
already present, all you have to do is click on the link.


OTOH, if you are thinking of clicking on a post topic (thread) to see 
all the relevant posts to that thread, you may want to look into the 
Nabble presentation of the Elecraft email reflector.


I may be considered "archaic" by some, but I receive all posts to my 
subscribed discussion groups via email.  My email client can arrange 
the posts by threads if I want (usually I do not), and I can reply to 
any one post easily (as I am doing for yours).  I do not wish to click 
on a bunch of links to get to a particular "topic" such as might be 
available in Yahoo Groups or others. Signing into a group to get 
information is a PITA as far as I am concerned.


In other words, I like this mailman.qth.com list just as it is - plain 
email that I can read and respond to if I desire.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/31/2016 8:38 PM, Steve via Elecraft wrote:
First off, I really like reading the Elecraft reflector. Not only is 
it my
main source of info about Elecraft gear and operation, but many 
interesting

  other ham radio (and life in general) topics. However, there are times
when I am  too busy/lazy to read everything and find it tedious to 
copy topics

into the  search field ( "CRTL F" ) etc.  On quite a few blogs and email
newsletters  I have seen the topic list is structured as a set of 
links to the
specific  items; such that, one clicks the (blue) topic and jumps 
right to

the posting. I  wonder whether this might be done with this Elecraft
reflector? I realize I am  being selfish and lackadaisical, but 
please consider this

suggestion.
VY 73 de W3UEC (Steve)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft grey in a rattle can?

[EricJ]

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep it mind for a future project. Considering 
that I took hours to build side panels, a bottom panel and 2D fasteners 
from scratch to salvage some old EC2 panels when I could have just paid 
$79.95 for a new EC2 case...I'd say money was a big object. hi.


Eric

KE6US


On 7/26/2016 4:08 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:

If “money is no object” and you want to nail the color exactly, you can buy 
custom-blended spray paint for about $50 a can from

http://www.myperfectcolor.com/

Lew N6LEW



On Jul 26, 2016, at 1:27 PM, EricJ <eric_c...@hotmail.com> wrote:

I bought an EC2 to put my KPA100 and KAT100 in. That left a blank top cover, 
front/rear cover sitting on a shelf. I recently made two side covers and a 
bottom cover for it which I want to paint as close to the original EC2 panels 
as possible. Most of the rattle can greys are more blue than the Elecraft grey 
which tends towards a brown tone almost.

Anyone run across a rattle can color that comes close?

Eric KE6US
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Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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[Elecraft] Elecraft grey in a rattle can?

[EricJ]

I bought an EC2 to put my KPA100 and KAT100 in. That left a blank top 
cover, front/rear cover sitting on a shelf. I recently made two side 
covers and a bottom cover for it which I want to paint as close to the 
original EC2 panels as possible. Most of the rattle can greys are more 
blue than the Elecraft grey which tends towards a brown tone almost.


Anyone run across a rattle can color that comes close?

Eric KE6US
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Re: [Elecraft] QSLs

[EricJ]

Check out the history of DXCC for more than half a century of scandal, 
intrigue and exotic adventure!


Eric KE6US


On 7/26/2016 5:45 AM, Gene Gabry wrote:

I think what Jorge might have been inferring is, LOTW doesn't have the same
capability as a log checker would to make a judgment that a two way contact
could not have been made on 160m between a station in Chicago at 12 noon
Chicago time and say Australia. What's to say a couple hams might have
coordinated together to falsely upload a contact as mentioned to finish off
an award? The times and frequency and calls match, confirmed contact. Most
hams would not even think of doing this. But, just as is the human condition
in life, cheating happens. I'm sure it happens to some % in the ham
community as well.

Gene, N9TF



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Re: [Elecraft] QSLs

[EricJ]

Hah! You should be in So Cal. EVERYBODY wants my card. Ok, nobody, but 
I'll courteously reply in kind if it ever happens.


Eric KE6US

On 7/25/2016 3:18 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

As always, I respond to a request for a QSL in whatever form the other
station wants. Being located in Oregon I do not get a lot of requests, so
it's not a significant burden.

73, Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] QSLs

[EricJ]

Hah! You should be in So Cal. EVERYBODY wants my card. Ok, nobody, but 
I'll courteously reply in kind if it ever happens.


Eric KE6US

On 7/25/2016 3:18 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

When I was first licensed in the 1950's, the cost of printing QSLs was a
significant expense, as was the cost of International Reply Coupons if I
didn't want to wait for the buro. I could buy a gallon of gas for 25 cents
and a decent meal for $1.00. And, while it was far cheaper even in adjusted
dollars than today, the cost of College was very significant.

As always, I respond to a request for a QSL in whatever form the other
station wants. Being located in Oregon I do not get a lot of requests, so
it's not a significant burden.

73, Ron AC7AC

  


-Original Message-
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S6 edge+, an AT 4G LTE smartphone
 Original message From: Jim Brown
 Date: 7/25/16  1:49 PM  (GMT-06:00) To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] QSLs On Mon,7/25/2016 11:34 AM,
stan levandowski wrote:

On my QRZ page it says "No LoTW, no eQSL and no Buro."

That may be your preference, but it causes everyone who wants a
confirmation from you to spend money with the postal system. When we
were kids, it cost a penny or two to send a QSL. Now, including the cost
of printing a card, it costs someone who wants your card more than $1
round trip (.49 each way) in the US, more than $2 between US and Canada,
average $3.50 to/from other countries.

LOTW and eQSL are FREE and easy to use if you're using almost any of the
popular logging software. Putting our logs on LOTW is the considerate
thing to do. It's the RIGHT thing to do. It's the modern equivalent of
what we said in the '50s -- "the last courtesy of a QSO is a QSL." Now,
the last courtesy of a QSO is an upload to LOTW.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] 20 meters is dead all day

[EricJ]

I'm one of "those guys". I operated JT65-HF and JT9 for a couple years 
with my oldest K2 (SN 567), including half a dozen contacts with K1JT 
hisself. First time ever working a guy on a mode he invented. hi.


It's a very interesting mode, but limited fun for a 60 year veteran of 
CW mostly interested in ragchewing and county hunting. My primary 
activity in ham radio these days is homebrewing left-handed bugs. They 
work fine for the original digital mode, but don't adapt easily to the 
newfangled ones.


I actually do tune 14.076 as a quick check on propagation because there 
is so much activity. If there are signals there, I'm fairly sure I can 
be heard on CW if anybody is listening.


Operating digital modes (WSJT and PSK) is the only time my K2 has ever 
been on SSB. I've used it barefoot, with an HF Packer amp and with the 
KPA100. It does a great job on these modes.


Eric KE6US


On 7/22/2016 10:24 AM, Sid Frissell wrote:

You "20 meters is dead all day" guys need to check out WSJT-X (JT-9 and JT-65).
At least here in MT 14076 is busy every day all day!  You can find many US and 
VE stations plus a very good mix of DX. I have only been on this mode since 
late in 2014  (been a ham since 1950) and I have worked over 100 DX entities.  
{I started over when I took up digital.  New ones are still popping up.  Plenty 
of QSO's.  No rag-chewing of course !!!  Also, my DX spotter in DXLabd seems to 
keep rolling out spots all day--many on 20, both SSB and cw.  Try 14076.
I call it "Mouse-click Radio" as thats all you have to do. At least you will 
hear (see?) activity.

73, Sid.  NZ7M

Sent From Sid Frissell's iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

[EricJ]

Secrets of the Sun. Took 5 seconds on google to discover it is on 
youtube.com, and blocked in my area (So Cal) on PBS.


Eric KE6US



On 7/21/2016 9:22 PM, tomb18 wrote:

Just open a panadapter on 20m during the day...depressing. makes you wonder if 
it's working


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: w7aqk  Date: 2016-07-21  11:37 
PM  (GMT-05:00) To: a...@sbcglobal.net, Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle
I’m currently traveling in Oregon, and watched it on the Portland area PBS 
station (Oregon Public Broadcasting).  I assume it is the most current program 
in the Nova series, but I missed the actual title as I didn’t tune in until 
about 5 minutes after it started.  Sometimes there is a slight lag between on 
air viewing and their website availability, but just about every Nova program 
ends up on the website for viewing online.  Check the dates shown, and it 
should be the one for this week.  If it’s not there yet, it will be, and they 
even said it would be available online.  Also, most PBS stations broadcast Nova 
multiple times during the week, so check your own station’s schedule for the 
week.  Looking at OPB’s schedule, I think the title may be “ Secrets OF The 
Sun”.  Here it is being aired multiple times this week.

I might just add that there are few programs on TV these days that are better 
than Nova.  It is marvelous!  My other favorite is “Frontline”, but, of course, 
there are still other superb programs that are pure entertainment, like 
“Masterpiece”.  If you are not a regular PBS viewer, I think you are really 
missing something!  My satellite TV system gives me just about anything that is 
available, but in truth, I could probably survive quite nicely with just two 
channels—PBS and Turner Classic Movies!  Well, I do like to watch a little golf 
and football!  Hi.

Dave W7AQK



From: a...@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2016 2:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector ; w7aqk
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

   Can you check your PBS TV station schedule and give us the title of that 
NOVA program? Our station was running the RNC.

   Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  





From: w7aqk ;
To: Elecraft Reflector ;
Subject: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2016 7:05:56 PM


   Hi All,

   FWIW, there was a very interesting program I watched last night on PBS.  
The
   regular program called "Nova" had a most informative discussion about the
   solar cycle and how it affects us here on Earth.  It won't tell you
   everything you want to know about propagation, etc., but it does give a 
lot
   of perspective as to why our communications can be so disrupted by solar
   storms.  They also talked a lot about "sunspots"!  We tend to think the 
more
   the better for us, but do we really understand how they form, and the 
effect
   they have?  This gives you some insight about that.

   Anyway, you might want to check it out, and I think you can watch it 
online
   at www.pbs.org/nova.

   Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

[EricJ]

Secrets of the Sun. Took 5 seconds on google to discover it is on 
youtube.com, and blocked in my area (So Cal) on PBS.


Eric KE6US



On 7/21/2016 9:22 PM, tomb18 wrote:

Just open a panadapter on 20m during the day...depressing. makes you wonder if 
it's working


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: w7aqk  Date: 2016-07-21  11:37 
PM  (GMT-05:00) To: a...@sbcglobal.net, Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle
I’m currently traveling in Oregon, and watched it on the Portland area PBS 
station (Oregon Public Broadcasting).  I assume it is the most current program 
in the Nova series, but I missed the actual title as I didn’t tune in until 
about 5 minutes after it started.  Sometimes there is a slight lag between on 
air viewing and their website availability, but just about every Nova program 
ends up on the website for viewing online.  Check the dates shown, and it 
should be the one for this week.  If it’s not there yet, it will be, and they 
even said it would be available online.  Also, most PBS stations broadcast Nova 
multiple times during the week, so check your own station’s schedule for the 
week.  Looking at OPB’s schedule, I think the title may be “ Secrets OF The 
Sun”.  Here it is being aired multiple times this week.

I might just add that there are few programs on TV these days that are better 
than Nova.  It is marvelous!  My other favorite is “Frontline”, but, of course, 
there are still other superb programs that are pure entertainment, like 
“Masterpiece”.  If you are not a regular PBS viewer, I think you are really 
missing something!  My satellite TV system gives me just about anything that is 
available, but in truth, I could probably survive quite nicely with just two 
channels—PBS and Turner Classic Movies!  Well, I do like to watch a little golf 
and football!  Hi.

Dave W7AQK



From: a...@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2016 2:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector ; w7aqk
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

   Can you check your PBS TV station schedule and give us the title of that 
NOVA program? Our station was running the RNC.

   Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  





From: w7aqk ;
To: Elecraft Reflector ;
Subject: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2016 7:05:56 PM


   Hi All,

   FWIW, there was a very interesting program I watched last night on PBS.  
The
   regular program called "Nova" had a most informative discussion about the
   solar cycle and how it affects us here on Earth.  It won't tell you
   everything you want to know about propagation, etc., but it does give a 
lot
   of perspective as to why our communications can be so disrupted by solar
   storms.  They also talked a lot about "sunspots"!  We tend to think the 
more
   the better for us, but do we really understand how they form, and the 
effect
   they have?  This gives you some insight about that.

   Anyway, you might want to check it out, and I think you can watch it 
online
   at www.pbs.org/nova.

   Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Cycle

[EricJ]

That's tougher to do these days. A lot of people are busy on the 
internet or whatever and watching spots. I see this in county hunting, 
SKCC and just about everywhere. During the week, I can tune the entire 
CW portion of 20 meters and not hear a single station. A check on RBN 
shows me hitting just about every skimmer in North America with a decent 
signal, so I know I'm getting out and everything's working, but nobody 
is calling CQ or in QSO. The conditions are there for stateside, but 
nobody's on. Weekends light up if there is a contest. Signals will be 
decent until the end of the contest, then the last one out turns off the 
lights. Not a peep to be heard late Sunday afternoon. It's eerie.


I tune around 20m CW  two or three times a day and call CQ if RBN shows 
there's any hope of being heard somewhere, but during the week it can 
get frustrating. That would be fine, but it's too damn hot to work on 
projects in the garage instead.


Eric KE6US




On 7/21/2016 1:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Time was, we just turned on the receiver and tuned across the bands.

73, Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] CW Setup

[EricJ]

K6DGW's post answers most of your questions, but I'll add a couple more 
points. You have to use a stereo plug for any key plugged into an 
Elecraft rig. Even straight keys and bugs with only two wires.


Also, as Fred points out, you can pretty much do whatever you want and 
left handers often just stick with setting up paddles as righthanders 
to. I think it's a mistake because of the symmetry in the brain. Right 
hand bugs are set up with dits on the thumb and dahs on the forefinger. 
Righthanders do the same with paddles for electronic keyers. Sticking to 
this convention makes it easier to use someone elses rig or demos at ham 
conventions with ease as they are usually set up for righthanders.


Lefthanders can do what they want, of course, and we often do because 
it's our nature. But lefties should also follow the convention that the 
thumb is for dits and the forefinger for dahs. Remarkably, a lefthander 
who does this can sit down with a righthanded bug or paddle/keyer and 
send with very little practice. That isn't just because lefthanders are 
more skilled. It's that the brain easily makes the adjustment--even a 
righthanders brain can handle that.


Until recently, I've always used a bug or paddle righthanded and a 
straight key lefthanded because a straight key demands fine motor skills 
the others don't. As I get older, I've noticed my fine motor skills 
slightly degrading. So I built a lefthanded bug to see if that would 
help. It did. My left hand is more precise than my right, always has 
been. So after 40 years of using righthanded bugs and keyers, I switched 
to my lefthand. With an evening of practice, my speed and ability was as 
good as my right hand. I think my LH fist is even a little better than 
my RH fist ever was, but memory is the second thing to go.


Eric KE6US




On 6/26/2016 6:00 PM, Bill Ellis via Elecraft wrote:

Hi ll,
Trying to set up a single lever paddle for my K3. The more I read the more 
confused, for some reason, it gets. Can someone assist with this hook up, do  I 
use a stereo plug, and how do I set up the menu ?

Thanks/73's,
Bill, WB9CAC
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[EricJ]

I don't think it matters that what you practice on matches the KX3 key 
either. Almost any paddle that is comfortable for you should be fine. 
There's a difference between dual and single lever paddles, but even 
then, if you learn on one, it won't take much to adapt to something else.


Dual levers are needed for so-called iambic keying. Single levers can't 
be used for that, but they work exactly the same except you can't do 
squeeze keying for alternating dits/dahs. Take a look at this:


http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf

That site is a great source of info on keys and will let you compare a 
large number of them.


You can use ANY electronic keyer without ever learning squeeze keying or 
even knowing it exists. You can ignore Iambic A vs B in your KX3 as they 
are irrelevant if you don't use squeeze keying.


No need to start with a straight key, however, it will teach you more 
about proper timing than an electronic keyer, and that will translate to 
better timing on an electronic keyer. You're relearning a skill, not how 
to operate a specific device.


If you skip the straight key, you skip a very useful, traditional and 
interesting skill. You can also skip learning a bug, but it is a 
fascinating device and another interesting skill. In almost 60 years 
I've gone from straight key to occasional bug to electronic keyer to 
straight key to bug. Currently, I'm about 95% bug using a lefthanded 
homebrew one I made several months ago. I can switch with relative ease, 
sometimes within the same QSO from that bug to my commercial righthanded 
bugs to a straight key to the internal K2 keyer. Your brain works it all 
out with only a little effort to shake off the rust.


You'll easily adapt from almost any paddle to the KX3 paddle in no time 
once you regain your skill with one of them.


Eric KE6US

SKCC 86


On 6/24/2016 9:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ



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Re: [Elecraft] K2s

[EricJ]

In my case, the form factor is a huge consideration. Having the knobs on 
the top makes sense for a trail-friendly radio that sits on your lap or 
a nearby rock, but it is not, at least for me, the best ergonomics for a 
base station. Putting it on a plastic tilting stand doesn't change that.


Cabling is another big factor. I like cables coming out the rear, not 
sprouting from all sides. It makes sense on a TFR, but not so much in a 
base station where other gear abuts it.


Believe me, I'm not knocking the KX3 as I've never owned or operated 
one. I've never even seen one except in pictures. I had a KX1 and it was 
always the last radio I picked up to take camping. (K1 was the first). 
It was more of a hangar queen for me. I just never enjoyed using it, but 
I never really used it as a trail-friendly radio which is what it was 
designed to be. The K1 was much more comfortable to use sitting in a 
campsite tuning the radio while I poked at the campfire. Based on form 
factor, the KX3 was never a consideration for me and neither is the KX2 
(certainly the ultimate TRF) for the same reason.


I have two K2/10s with KPA/KATU in EC2 box (SN567 and 6911), and just 
about every internal accessory. I didn't build any of it so the fun of 
building is irrelevant to me. I like them because they are very 
competent, reliable, wonderfully supported, even traditional radios that 
suit me. That's enough.


Eric KE6US


On 6/24/2016 7:32 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Robin,

Since you have a KX3, why the K2?  In what ways (other than the fun of 
building it!) do you find the K2 better than the KX3 -- unless you 
have the K2/100?


I have K2/100, KX3, K3/100, etc. and my K2/100 is currently not in 
use.  Maybe I'll get it set up now that I have a second operating 
location.


73, Phil W7OX

On 6/23/16 9:09 PM, Robin Bayer wrote:

For casual CW, the K2 sounds and performs. Sometimes I daydream about a
K2s upgrade kit. Finer tuning,  encoder controls, Band memories, all 
those
aftermarket mic, level out,  an 1/8 phone jack, modern internal 
battery. Oh

and easily adjustable DSP filtering.

A K3 is out of my range, well maybe a well used one someday.

For QRP contesting, and scanning the bands for signals, nothing beats 
the

KX3, Win4K3 and a good sound card for the Pan adapter. During CWT the
signals were tight, but hardly a click with the filter tightened. A 
great

value.

Building most of the accessories for my K2/10 and almost all worked
immediately!  I am still pleased to share it in my station report during
rag chews.

Anyway, Thanks Eleccraft team the fine rigs.

Robin
KA5QQA

K1. sold to buy a K2
KX1 sold to buy a k2
K2
KX3


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Re: New products

[EricJ]

We know. We saw Airplane.

Eric KE6US


On 6/7/2016 3:59 AM, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:
At times I envy most of the sheep who don't know much about any of 
this, and assume the man in the left seat with a view & wearing the 
big hat is fully in control all the time.


73.

Dave G0WBX.



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Re: [Elecraft] New products

[EricJ]

With that, the thread effectively closed for me. Nobody has said it 
better. Thanks, Len.


Eric KE6US


On 6/6/2016 10:18 AM, l...@ka7ftp.com wrote:

As a developer of both hardware and software products that use touch screens
I have mixed feelings.

My number one gripe with soft environments is the tendency to continually
modify the environment and jam more and more functionality into the same
footprint.  This either needs to be done with width or depth, take your
pick.  Both Apple and Windows are horrible abusers.  Every new version of
their software requires users to hunt down functions that have been moved or
crammed down.  Functions that were originally intuitive are now obfuscated
in the name of progress. Lack of consistency is extremely frustrating for
most users.

Today because of the ease of soft environments it seems that companies feel
compelled to continually bring a "new look" to each software revision of
their website or product.  How many of you think Yahoo scored a home run
with NEO?  In my opinion NEO is an absolute disaster.  But corporate egos
won't allow users out.  How would you like someone mucking with your beloved
radio in the name of pretty progress.  I'll take consistency over pretty and
modern every time.  I'm buying a radio, I don't want an iPhone clone, or an
Icom clone, I want my KX3 to look and exactly like the KX3 I bought.  I
trust the engineers at Elecraft to make acceptable and necessary upgrades
for functionality.  I also trust that they are not going to ruin a great
radio in the name of glitter..

It has been pointed out previously in this thread that all of Elecraft's
radios can be easily connected to a computer for computer control.  Not
everything in the world needs to be integrated, and often doing so creates
compromises that are much more difficult to live with and limit the lifetime
of a product.  I'm tickled pink with my Elecraft products and don't feel the
need for them to emulate anyone else to keep me as a customer!  We shouldn't
be compelled to buy a radio every two years like we do with cell phones.  My
expectation is to buy a product that will function for many years, and
possibly a decade or more.  I would rather have multiple Elecraft products
rather than one that pretends to be all things to all people.

73

len

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Re: [Elecraft] New Products

[EricJ]

Ham radio becomes indistinguishable from gaming with the rise of 
contesting. Now ham gaming becomes ham VR gaming with the advent of 
Hamthought.


Brave New World Two Hundred Meters and Down

Eric KE6US


On 6/6/2016 9:03 AM, Terry Brown wrote:

I can hardly wait to read the next Digest of this group regarding the New
Products discussion of touchscreens vs knob interfaced SD radios, because I
MUST have the latest interface technology in order to have any enjoyment of
Amateur Radio.  Alas, my beloved KX3 looks doomed because Hamthought, Inc.,
has just released their latest radio.  It has a Thought Screen.  All a ham
has to do is think of the frequency and the radio will go to it, as well as
any other function of the radio.  It is amazing technology and I think the
Elecraft, ICOM, and all other Amateur Radio equipment manufacturers are in
real trouble.  They are going to have to adapt to the new technology or go
out of business.  Hams realize that the fate of the world revolves around
the kind of interface a software-defined radio has.

  


73's,

  


Terry

  

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] New products

[EricJ]

It's always interesting to hear list members' idea of new amateur radio 
products. I get the idea that the ham market is driven by the needs of 
megabuck contesters and DX'ers, many of whom are now legally 
incorporated entities! I'm obviously not in tune with an amateur market 
that sees a combiner for three $2000+ linears as a viable product. Maybe 
the ham market has always been driven by these folks, the race car 
drivers in our sport with factory sponsorship, whose wants and needs 
then trickle down to the rest of us as rear view mirrors and racing 
stripes for our family SUV.


I have no advice for Elecraft which already produces things that are 
beyond my needs in this hobby. But consider this. I worked the Alabama 
QSO Party this weekend just for fun.  I did all my tuning/searching with 
my Drake 2B, then "pounced" (a word that is hyperbole for what I do in a 
contest) with the K2/100. There was nothing I could hear on the K2 that 
I couldn't hear on the 2B. In fact, I was only interested in mobiles 
running AL counties, the weaker stations in the contest.


Granted this 50 year old radio suffers a number of inadequacies that I 
would no longer stand for, however, it is still capable of performing 
the duties that MOST actual everyday hams require of a receiver. It 
would not make it through the first lap as a race car, but it still does 
a remarkable job as a daily ride. And, the Drake 2B is still more FUN. 
It wouldn't be enhanced with a touch screen instead of knobs/switches 
and neither would anything else meant for every day hamming.


Eric

KE6US


On 6/5/2016 12:27 PM, Buddy Brannan wrote:

Lighten up, you say? I don't know...I sort of like having radios I can actually 
use. Unless said touch screen will also come with some sort of spoken 
interface, (they haven't, so far), I guess eventually I get to look for a new 
hobby if that's where we're all going. And really, with the aging ham 
population and the sight loss that sometimes comes with said aging population, 
guess a lot of those guys are gonna be screwed, too. Sounds like a great idea 
to me.

--
Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
Phone: 814-860-3194
Mobile: 814-431-0962
Email: bu...@brannan.name




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Re: [Elecraft] K2

[EricJ]

I have two K2's. I didn't build either of them. One I bought off ebay 10 
years ago (SN 567). The other I bought two years ago off this list 
(SN6911). Since I wanted something I didn't have to build, I could have 
bought ANY of the major brands. The K2 was a clear choice for me. Both 
perform exactly the same (SN 567 has all the latest mods) and both are 
as reliable as bricks.


So, obviously, enjoy the building experience, but know at the end, 
you've chosen one of the best rigs in its class which will give you 
years of reliable service. And if it doesn't, you can fix it! I gave 
away a 10 year old TS-430S because I could no longer find parts.


Eric KE6US

On 6/2/2016 6:51 AM, Mike via Elecraft wrote:
A K2 kit is on it's way.  Although I do have some experience  
soldering, it

has been 30+ years and I am open to any suggestions as to equipment
needed.  I have a Hakko FS-951 soldering station. I have seen various 
mechanisms

for holding the circuit boards while working on them.   Any other tips
and/or caveats are more than welcome.  A retirement project, 
hopefully to be

completed by the time the sun comes back in a few  years. :)


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Re: [Elecraft] The KX2

[EricJ]

The Miata/F150 analogy was meant to be ludicrous. As are comparisons 
between the KX2 and KX3. Apples and oranges.


There's a straight line between ZOIs Mountaineer, Norcal 40, KX1 and KX2.

The K2 intentionally jumped off that line and the K3 said, "What line?". 
The K1 was barely ever on it. The KX1 moved solidly back on the line. 
The KX3 day-hikes on groomed trails, but prefers full hookups in the RV 
park at the end of the day.


I got more, but I'm saving them for my book.


Eric KE6US




On 5/23/2016 8:34 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

We have a 1991 Miata and a 2013 Mazdaspeed 3, plus a KX3, so I don’t think this 
is a useful analogy. The Miata and the KX3 are both original, clean, minimal 
designs that perform way above their weight.

The KX2 is very obviously a stripped-down, lightweight KX3.

Yes, the lineage goes back through the KX1, the NorCal 40A, and the Sierra. 
That lineage includes the KX3.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On May 23, 2016, at 7:53 PM, EricJ <eric_c...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Is a Miata a stripped down version of an F150 pickup?

Is an F150 a Miata with room to carry drywall?

It's pretty obvious from the announcement the KX2 serves a different purpose 
than the KX3. It's not a smaller anything. It's a different rig for a different 
purpose.

Looks to me its lineage is more KX1 and the preceding Trail Friendly Radios 
than anything else in the Elecraft line.

http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/N6KR_KX1_History.html

There's an evolution of rigs you should be comparing it to.

Eric KE6US




On 5/23/2016 7:25 PM, w7aqk wrote:

Hi All,

The ink is barely dry on the release announcement for the KX2, but it has 
created quite a stir.  A lot of people are very curious about this rig, 
including me.  As a KX3 owner already, I'm not chomping at the bit to get a 
KX2, but I am trying to discern just what the meaningful differences are.

I think it is intriguing that Elecraft chose to make it's new rig a "downsized" 
version of the KX3.  I can certainly see how this has stimulated a lot of interest.  What 
I'm trying to figure out is whether or not it does anything better than the KX3, or is it 
just a smaller, and less capable, radio.  At this point, I'm inclined to think the 
latter.  That's not necessarily a bad thing, but that seems to be a better 
generalization. Nonetheless, what you give up with a KX2 may not outweigh what you might 
gain with a KX3--it depends solely on the user.

The KX2 is definitely smaller (about half the volume) and lighter, although the 
footprint is not quite that much different.  The price is lighter too! As a 
true portable radio, I see this as a nice advantage.  SOTA ops probably will 
really appreciate this! You still have a very competent radio with just about 
all the features a portable op would want or need.

The things you give up are not insignificant.  There is a slight power differential, 
which may, or may not, be a concern.  Possibly more of a concern might be not having 
roofing filters.  I've become a huge fan of having those.  Also, losing access to 160 and 
6 meters may be problematic for some.  I'm not all that concerned about no AM or FM, but 
others might be.  With the emphasis on being a "hand held" radio, some may 
lament no VHF/UHF as well.

I can only guess at the decreased capability of the optional ATU. The one for 
the KX2 may still be sufficient for most needs, but I just hate to see less 
capability.  Elecraft ATU's in the K3 and KX3 are great, and I guess I just get 
nervous about less.  The ATU's in the KX1 and K1 were only moderately useful, 
and it was their reduced size that caused that.  Elecraft can obviously put out 
superb ATU's, but they need some room to do that.

I was disappointed to see that the PX3 would not mate with the KX2.  In their 
"FAQ's", Elecraft sort of deflects that by simply suggesting that capability is 
more appropriate for a larger rig, like the KX3 or K3, but I'm still disappointed.  
Personally, I think it would have been a big plus if they could have made it work, but 
again, just not enough room in that smaller package--or I assume that was the problem.  
Or, maybe it was to just hold the cost down???

I know a lot of K3 owners, who also have KX3's, and have found the KX3 to be a 
very effective substitute/back-up in their main station.  Lately I've been 
tinkering with that same process, and it works pretty darned well.  However, 
I'm not sure the KX2 is nearly as good a substitute, or back-up.  The lesser 
capabilities described above would explain much of that.  I still much prefer 
the K3, but I don't give up all that much with the KX3.  It's a great reason to 
own both!

So, how do you describe the difference in ten words or less?  Is the KX2 a stripped down version of 
the KX3, or is the KX3 a deluxe KX2?  In any event, there are sufficient differences to require 
some analysis if you are t

Re: [Elecraft] The KX2

[EricJ]

Is a Miata a stripped down version of an F150 pickup?

Is an F150 a Miata with room to carry drywall?

It's pretty obvious from the announcement the KX2 serves a different 
purpose than the KX3. It's not a smaller anything. It's a different rig 
for a different purpose.


Looks to me its lineage is more KX1 and the preceding Trail Friendly 
Radios than anything else in the Elecraft line.


http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/N6KR_KX1_History.html

There's an evolution of rigs you should be comparing it to.

Eric KE6US




On 5/23/2016 7:25 PM, w7aqk wrote:

Hi All,

The ink is barely dry on the release announcement for the KX2, but it 
has created quite a stir.  A lot of people are very curious about this 
rig, including me.  As a KX3 owner already, I'm not chomping at the 
bit to get a KX2, but I am trying to discern just what the meaningful 
differences are.


I think it is intriguing that Elecraft chose to make it's new rig a 
"downsized" version of the KX3.  I can certainly see how this has 
stimulated a lot of interest.  What I'm trying to figure out is 
whether or not it does anything better than the KX3, or is it just a 
smaller, and less capable, radio.  At this point, I'm inclined to 
think the latter.  That's not necessarily a bad thing, but that seems 
to be a better generalization. Nonetheless, what you give up with a 
KX2 may not outweigh what you might gain with a KX3--it depends solely 
on the user.


The KX2 is definitely smaller (about half the volume) and lighter, 
although the footprint is not quite that much different.  The price is 
lighter too! As a true portable radio, I see this as a nice 
advantage.  SOTA ops probably will really appreciate this! You still 
have a very competent radio with just about all the features a 
portable op would want or need.


The things you give up are not insignificant.  There is a slight power 
differential, which may, or may not, be a concern.  Possibly more of a 
concern might be not having roofing filters.  I've become a huge fan 
of having those.  Also, losing access to 160 and 6 meters may be 
problematic for some.  I'm not all that concerned about no AM or FM, 
but others might be.  With the emphasis on being a "hand held" radio, 
some may lament no VHF/UHF as well.


I can only guess at the decreased capability of the optional ATU. The 
one for the KX2 may still be sufficient for most needs, but I just 
hate to see less capability.  Elecraft ATU's in the K3 and KX3 are 
great, and I guess I just get nervous about less.  The ATU's in the 
KX1 and K1 were only moderately useful, and it was their reduced size 
that caused that.  Elecraft can obviously put out superb ATU's, but 
they need some room to do that.


I was disappointed to see that the PX3 would not mate with the KX2.  
In their "FAQ's", Elecraft sort of deflects that by simply suggesting 
that capability is more appropriate for a larger rig, like the KX3 or 
K3, but I'm still disappointed.  Personally, I think it would have 
been a big plus if they could have made it work, but again, just not 
enough room in that smaller package--or I assume that was the 
problem.  Or, maybe it was to just hold the cost down???


I know a lot of K3 owners, who also have KX3's, and have found the KX3 
to be a very effective substitute/back-up in their main station.  
Lately I've been tinkering with that same process, and it works pretty 
darned well.  However, I'm not sure the KX2 is nearly as good a 
substitute, or back-up.  The lesser capabilities described above would 
explain much of that.  I still much prefer the K3, but I don't give up 
all that much with the KX3.  It's a great reason to own both!


So, how do you describe the difference in ten words or less?  Is the 
KX2 a stripped down version of the KX3, or is the KX3 a deluxe KX2?  
In any event, there are sufficient differences to require some 
analysis if you are trying to pick one over the other.  If I didn't 
already have a KX3 I could probably get a headache trying to make that 
decision.  Either way you go you are probably a "winner!"  The "easy" 
way may be to just conclude you want both, and apparently some have 
already made that decision!  I'm not sure that would be my decision, 
but hey, I haven't had my hands on a KX2 yet either! Hi.


I'll be very interested in seeing some real in-depth reviews of the KX2.

73,

Dave W7AQK








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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 long screw...

[EricJ]

It helps to thread a nut onto a screw before you cut the end off. When 
you are done cutting and filing, removing the nut acts to "chase" the 
threads and clean them up a little.


Eric KE6US


On 5/20/2016 5:53 AM, Tom Crayner wrote:

I found a good pair of side-cutters with a quick filing and I can't tell
the difference between the two screws under a magnifying glass, just stay
clear of the threads so you don't damage them. (wear your safety glasses
  :-)  )

I took the screw out of the keyer to avoid damaging it while performing
this alteration.

YMMV, but you can always order the screw if you have an epic fail.

Tom, W2YF
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Re: [Elecraft] PL-259 connectors

[EricJ]

My experience too. I might have inadvertently bought Amphenol connectors 
60 years ago when the market was much smaller, and Amphenol market share 
was larger, but I never did it on purpose. The only connector failures 
I've had over the years, a comparative few, could be attributed to hasty 
construction on my part.


But sometimes it's satisfying to use new brand name parts after decades 
of robbing connectors from old cables, both of unknown origin, because 
that's what you could afford. Building with a box of little packages 
from Digi-Key is a different experience than building with crap salvaged 
from the family's old TV.


Eric KE6US


On 5/19/2016 7:04 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

I have used Generic PL259's for decades, and while I have had a few bad
ones, they usually failed while I was soldering them.

But for amateur use, they are fine.  Correctly soldered, a connector
shouldn't have an issue holding your body weight.  :)

(Flame retardant suit on)

Mike va3mw


On Thu, May 19, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Joe W2KJ  wrote:


Believe I read somewhere that Amphenol connectors are being made in
Mexico...not sure how long ago that got started.

 73, Joe W2KJ
 I QRP, therefore I am

On May 19, 2016, at 11:05 AM, Drew AF2Z wrote:


It was an 83-1sp I recently bought that had defective threading. Let's

face it: the name brand products of the past are not what they used to be,
quality-wise. (Some others I will never buy again: Grundig, Levis, Herman
boots...)

Mental note to self regarding PL-259's-- check for defective threading

before soldering connector to cable.



73,
Drew
AF2Z



On 05/19/16 09:32, Ronnie Hull wrote:

Type N connectors are great! I just don't see where is any gain to

using them on HF! They will make NO difference on either end of your QSO.

Most of the PL259's I see for sale today are crap. I'm a professional

in the communications industry so I use both styles on a Dailey basis

The 83-1SP's as sold by amphenol today are not anywhere near as good as

they used to be. The silver coating on them doesn't take solder as easily
as they once did!

Glad I have plenty of the old ones!

Ronnie w5sum

Sent from Ronnie's IPhone




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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?

[EricJ]

The touch screen would have to be horizontal so you can crawl around on 
it and reach all the features.


Eric KE6US


On 5/6/2016 9:49 AM, Terry Schieler wrote:

Probably all menu-driven because there is no excuse not to have knobs on a
rig THAT big.

Terry, W0FM

-Original Message-
From: Warren Merkel [mailto:hullspee...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2016 8:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product for Dayton?


I ran across this in an undisclosed location.  Could this be the next
Elecraft box radio for Dayton?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24789865/Elecraft2016DaytonSecretProject
.jpg

Warren, KD4Z


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Re: [Elecraft] A helpful review...

[EricJ]

Using a rig harshly in a particular activity isn't necessarily a good 
indication of its capabilities in activities where that isn't how it is 
used. Not everyone is a serious contester or DX'er, though they are well 
represented on this reflector. What's good on the racetrack may not be 
the best suited to the road.


I can't see an IC-7300 in my future, but it seems to be of interest to a 
lot of hams who ordinarily wouldn't be interested in an entry level rig. 
But then I can't yet see a K3s in my future either for the kind of 
operating I do. My K2's have no shortcomings that interfere with my 
ability to enjoy a radio the way I want to enjoy it. My K1 answers MOST 
of those needs. hi.


Eric KE6US




On 5/1/2016 1:32 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

My RELIABLE (caps intended) source of dope on new rigs comes from other
PVRC (Potomac Valley Radio Club) membership who in contesting tend to use
the rigs harshly.

73, Guy.



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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated

[EricJ]

Of course it is a big advantage. It's one of the reasons I've owned 
Elecraft rigs since I first became aware of them and currently have two 
K2s and a K1-4. I'd own a K3 if I didn't find the K2 perfectly 
satisfactory for my casual operating interests.


I stand by what I said. Comparisons between Elecraft and other amateur 
manufacturers are unfair, apples to oranges, in large part because of 
the personal interaction of Eric and Wayne with those of us who enjoy 
their products. In 60 years on the air I've had the chance to own or 
operate most of what has been offered. Except for my Drake 2B, my K1 is 
still my personal favorite, and the K2 close behind.


Eric

KE6US



On 4/25/2016 10:00 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
A big advantage of owning an Elecraft radio is that you CAN 
communicate directly with the Owners and Chief Engineer, they will 
listen to what you have to say, and often modify/upgrade their 
products based on what they hear from US!  Try that with ICOM. Or 
Yaesu. Or Kenwood.


73, Jim K9YC

On Mon,4/25/2016 6:19 PM, EricJ wrote:
The fact that you are having this conversation directly with one of 
the owners/designers of Elecraft and not one of the owners of ICOM is 
always going to make comparisons inherently unfair.


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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated

[EricJ]

The fact that you are having this conversation directly with one of the 
owners/designers of Elecraft and not one of the owners of ICOM is always 
going to make comparisons inherently unfair.


Eric

KE6US

On 4/25/2016 4:58 PM, Harry White wrote:

Wayne,

Yes, you missed one thing, the price. I added all the items up that would
have to be added to a factory build K3s so that it could do everything you
claimed and everything the IC-7300 can do. Without shipping costs the K3s
radio prices out at $5469.65, more than three and a half times the cost of
an IC-7300. And everyone is offering free shipping on the IC-7300. And that
price does not include any additional filters in the K3s.

Just trying to be fair.

73,

Harry
K1RSA

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 7:09 PM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated


Jim Brown  wrote:


On Mon,4/25/2016 1:34 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:
Wow, looks like Icom finally made a radio with performance close to
the humble K3S and K3 + new synth but also looks like you really
got to pay 'em for finally doing it, at nearly 13 grand for the 7851!

Don't be so quick to declare either of these products winners -- Rob's RX

measurements are only a small part of what defines the quality of a radio.
ICOM (and Yaesu) have a long history of producing radios with rather wide CW
signals, including all the current products that ARRL has measured.

Hi Jim,

Also, in the "you get what you pay for" category, here are the K3S features
(some optional*) that differ significantly from, or are not available on,
the IC-7300:

Receive

- *Sub receiver (identical in performance to main), diversity and
independent-band operation
- Dedicated AF and RF gain controls for both receivers
- APF (CW audio peaking filter)
- 8-band RX EQ
- Full stereo audio with audio effects (AFX) and L/R balance control
- User-settable AF limiter for use when AGC is off
- 7 AGC customization controls

Transmit

- PIN-diode T/R switching (audible relay on '7300)
- Extremely fast T/R turnaround (as low as 5 ms in QRQ mode; also applies
to KPA500)
- Dedicated controls for CW code speed/mic gain, compression/power level
- 8-band TX EQ

General

- *Wide-range ATU (> 10:1 at 100 W; > 20:1 at low power) and two antenna
jacks
- *Internal all-mode 2-meter transverter option
- Direct transverter band displays (9); integrated with Elecraft
XV-series
- Built-in PSK and RTTY decode (to display) and encode (via keyer
paddle);
  7300 has only RTTY, I believe
- Dedicated VFO B and RIT/XIT offset controls (VFO B is 400-count optical
encoder
  with weighted knob)
- 100 regular memories, plus 4 quick memories per band
- 10 user-programmable function switches (for menu hot-keys, macros, TX
messages)
- Direct rotary control functions: K3 11; 7300 6
- Direct switch functions: K3, 74 (addional 22 on P3*); 7300, 27
 (IC-7300 also has est. 10 full-time touch controls in main display
context)
- Keypad for direct frequency entry
- Transflective LCD, easily readable in bright sunlight
- Low current drain for portable/DXpedition use (1 amp typical)
- Works with supply voltage of as low as 10 V
- Carrying handle included
- *High-quality/versatile external control panel option (K-Pod)

Connectivity

- RX antenna in/out and transverter in/out jacks
- Stereo speaker outputs, front and rear headphones, front and rear mics
- Analog line in/out in addition to USB (digital + audio)
- Buffered I.F. output
- Accessory output for compatibility with existing station equipment,
  including band-data outputs and user-defined logic in/out
- 12-volt switched output for powering accessories

Spectrum Display*

 - dedicated panadapter screen (P3) with significantly larger area
 - flexible partitioning of spectrum vs waterfall
 - *optional high-resolution, external SVGA display

Any corrections or things I've missed?

Wayne
N6KR








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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[EricJ]

I have a setup exactly like the Wilcox Engineering setup. I have a 
second K2 with the KAT2 installed just for QRP, but I've had it  
connected to the KPA100 also. Works fine and is a very impressive little 
package on the desk.


The Wilcox Eng. text says to be sure to power up the KPA100 before the 
K2. I'd never heard that before.  I power both with the same power 
supply recommended and sold by Elecraft. I hit the PS switch then the K2 
front panel switch, so maybe that's what he means.


Eric
KE6US

On 4/16/2016 9:43 AM, Kevin Stover wrote:

http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

You've got to have the KIO2, an EC2 enclosure, and the KAT100PNL kit.
KIO2 goes in the QRP K2, KPA100 and KAT100 go in the new EC2 enclosure 
which has the KAT100PNL kit installed.
Assuming you've got the KAT100-1 you can use the serial cable you 
built. K2 end goes to the new KIO2, tuner end goes to either the 
KPA100 or the KAT100, left over connector goes to PC.


On 4/16/2016 10:47 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

 Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the 
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the 
base K2. I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of 
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open. Once 
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to 
an EC-2 with the KAT100? If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?





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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[EricJ]

Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or 
so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB 
changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do. 
It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.


Eric
KE6us

On 4/6/2016 8:37 AM, Mike Dodd wrote:

On 4/6/2016 11:13 AM, Dave Heil wrote:

...eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


Remember Vector's "wiring pencil?" 
 You used it to wire a 
breadboard with #32 enameled wire. Once you wrapped the wire around a 
pin, you applied a soldering iron and solder, which melted the enamel 
to allow a good solder joint.


I still have mine, and used it just a few weeks ago to wire an Arduino 
breadboard.




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Re: [Elecraft] T1 Miniature ATU

[EricJ]

I bought mine assembled. It didn't look like $20 worth of fun to build. 
But, like everything I've bought from Elecraft, it is really unique, 
exceptional quality, and works very well. I was building a lot of 
off-brand (i.e. non-Elecraft) QRP rigs at the time. It was the perfect 
companion for those. Tunes almost anything, fast and very quiet.


I no longer use or need it, but it's so damn cute I can't bear to sell 
it. I recently had a problem with my K2 ATU. No problem. I used the T1 
until I could get the KAT2 on the bench.


Eric
KE6US

On 4/4/2016 10:16 AM, a45wg wrote:

Fellow Hams,
I am considering adding a T1  ATU to my portable setup - any 
comments/suggestions ?

Is the kit easy or difficult to construct ?

As always your constructive comments are very appreciated

73s Tim
A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] OT -- J-38 part needed . . . OT

[EricJ]

I think it's just called a shoulder washer or shoulder spacer.

Eric
KE6US

On 3/25/2016 11:18 AM, Richards wrote:
I am restoring a J-38 key. I have all the parts EXCEPT the little 
insulating washers


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Re: [Elecraft] OT -- J-38 part needed . . . OT

[EricJ]

You can find them at some Ace Hardware stores, but they are nylon so 
they won't match the color of the originals. Unless the particular key 
has historical value, that shouldn't matter.


You'll have to find an Ace that isn't all yuppified trying to compete 
with big box stores. Find an old fashioned hardware store. I buy them 
all the time in our local Ace which we still call Bauman's even though 
it has been Ace for 30+ years. That's the kind of place you're looking for.


Eric
KE6US

On 3/25/2016 11:18 AM, Richards wrote:

Greetings -

I am restoring a J-38 key. I have all the parts EXCEPT the little 
insulating washers that insulate one of the inside binding post from 
the base/trunion piece.   They key, as it is, shows a continuous short.


Any clue where I can find them?
OR  a suggestion as to what I can use, instead ?

Thanks loads -- I can provide a photo showing the specific parts I 
need if that helps.


--- James - K8JHR 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 encoder kit 4 pin connector

[EricJ]

Fish paper! Any day's a good day when a solution involves fish paper.

Eric
KE6US

On 3/23/2016 11:57 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Actually, I just checked mine after finishing the flush cutting and the
boards are going to touch when they're screwed together.

In the archives it was suggested to use electrical tape, but I'm thinking a
more durable solution might be a thin layer of resin on the daughterboard as
a more permanently attached insulator. Any thoughts?

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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