[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-29 Thread John Mardinly
Indeed the price of new lutes is too low. I bought my Rubio in 1968 with excess 
money left over from a summer job while I was an undergraduate student. I was 
just astounded at how much craftsmanship I got for $600. Maybe that is why 
Rubio eventually quit making lutes and switched to harpsichords.

A. John Mardinly, Ph.D., P.E.
Principal Materials Nanoanalysis Engineer
EMail: john.mardi...@asu.edu
Cell: 408-921-3253 (does not work in TEM labs)
Titan Lab: 480-727-5651
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-Original Message-
From: lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu [mailto:lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu] On Behalf Of 
Martin Shepherd
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:15 AM
To: lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
Subject: [LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you say about 
them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and arguably downright rude. 
 If your comment is positive, someone reading it might wonder if you have an 
axe (sorry, no pun intended) to grind; if negative, your opinion is hard to 
judge and is almost inevitably biased and based on limited evidence.

The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about.  The price of new 
lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made cello would cost!  
That's not because cello makers are greedy people, it's just that the price of 
a cello more accurately reflects the amount of work and expertise which goes 
into it.  Even a cello maker earns less than a plumber or electrician.

The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets better with 
age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's surprising how few 
people ask more than they paid, even if they've had the lute for a number of 
years.  So sometimes there are excellent bargains to be had in the for sale 
columns.

My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what to look for 
in a secondhand lute.

All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 Dear Collective Wisdom,
 Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, 
 whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
 Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to 
 reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing 
 for ideas that can be added to it - 
 http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
 Reply publicly!
 RT



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-16 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com

I wrote ADD, not change.
As I can tell from this sondage as well as the on FB: the lute-public 
opinion overwhelmingly tilts against narrow bridges.

RT


On 10/15/2014 9:19 PM, howard posner wrote:

I asked the point of asking for ideas if you’ve already decided you’re not 
going to change the thing you’re asking ideas about, even to acknowledge that 
some players disagree with you.

On Oct 15, 2014, at 2:46 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:


Huh?
All the players I respect tend to have wider bridges, and Pat's own 
Jauck-Rutherford was even 157 mm. My 155 was copied from Barto's.


The players you respect aren’t the ones reading your remarks for beginners.  If 
you mean to say “I shouldn’t acknowledge that anyone disagrees with me, because 
I’m right,” then I still wonder why you’ve asked anyone else’s opinion.

On a less contentious note, an editing idea: the possessive “its” has no 
apostrophe.



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-16 Thread howard posner
On Oct 16, 2014, at 7:32 AM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 I wrote ADD, not change.

I guess that means you can’t take the apostrophe out of “it’s,” but you can add 
“not everyone shares my view about how wide bridge spacing should be.”  So 
we’re agreed, and your path is clear.  No need to thank me; all in a day’s work.



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[BAROQUE-LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Ed Durbrow
Very well written. Mace would be proud of you.

On Oct 16, 2014, at 12:30 AM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dear Collective Wisdom,
 Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, whose 
 sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
 Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to reflect 
 the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing
 for ideas that can be added to it -
 http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
 Reply publicly!
 RT
 
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

Ed Durbrow
Saitama, Japan
http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
https://soundcloud.com/ed-durbrow
http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/





--


[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Dan Winheld

Roman-

The article as it is now looks good to me. The only possible legitimate 
sale thwartation I can conceive of would be that of a good instrument by 
a builder that is not a model of what your article deems to be his best 
style- say an unusually fine vihuela or 6-course from a luthier more 
famous for, say, his Roman chitarrone or French theorbi. But of course 
that's a stretch, you merely offered perfectly legit guidelines.


In that vein I would suggest that you might supply an updated list of 
luthiers- or link to such existing lists, the major lute societies 
maintain such lists.


Your point no. 8 is quite well taken- and I suspect the source of most 
of your unpleasant conversations. There are indeed some totally out of 
touch, stubborn ignorami who refuse to believe:


1. That the ever-changing, (usually improving) early instrument 
production standards have made your old treasure worth much less. (No, 
your 6-fret, 30 pound, 7 course Renaissance lute Hauser knock-off with 
the Wooly Rhinoceros rebar bridge saddle is NOT worth $9,000). Sorry, 
but that treasure is now an obsolete, worthless curiosity. What's called 
a wall-hanger in the world of beautiful, but no longer functional objets.


2. The market controls you, not the other way around.  An item- esp. an 
old, used item (no, I'm not talking about a Sellas, Strad, or Maler) is 
worth exactly what somebody is willing to pay for it; and no more. Go 
ahead, don't lower the price- just grow old while your lute sits on 
the lute list, eBay, coffee shop bulletin board, or wherever.


P.S. - I would love to find a nice, sound, 10 course Franciolini- but it 
has to be genuine, and less than $450! ;-)


Dan


On 10/15/2014 8:30 AM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, 
whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to 
reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT



To get on or off this list see list information at
http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html






[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Martin Shepherd

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you say 
about them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and arguably 
downright rude.  If your comment is positive, someone reading it might 
wonder if you have an axe (sorry, no pun intended) to grind; if 
negative, your opinion is hard to judge and is almost inevitably biased 
and based on limited evidence.


The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about.  The price 
of new lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made cello 
would cost!  That's not because cello makers are greedy people, it's 
just that the price of a cello more accurately reflects the amount of 
work and expertise which goes into it.  Even a cello maker earns less 
than a plumber or electrician.


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's 
surprising how few people ask more than they paid, even if they've had 
the lute for a number of years.  So sometimes there are excellent 
bargains to be had in the for sale columns.


My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what to 
look for in a secondhand lute.


All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, 
whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to 
reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
http://www.avast.com



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Dan Winheld


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that...


Martin, I suspect that you and I have been experiencing quite different 
used/old lutes. Of course, you do specify good lute; but as an active 
lute teacher here in Berkeley I can tell you that the instruments that 
my beginning players bring- or obtain out of the LSA's rental stable- 
weren't nearly good enough to begin with, or we need to wait a few more 
aeons for them to come up to par. I should be getting kickbacks from all 
the lutes my students have been commissioning from various builders here 
in North America. But you seem to see more clearly than I did the 
pitfalls of mentioning luthiers by name in Roman's article.


For a good discussion in regard to lute/luthier pricing- with a little 
necessary cold water in the face- I highly reccomend (in addition to 
Martin's own site) Mel Wong's blog site, Black Bird String Arts:


http://www.blackbirdstringarts.com/about/

Dan

On 10/15/2014 11:14 AM, Martin Shepherd wrote:

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you 
say about them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and 
arguably downright rude.  If your comment is positive, someone reading 
it might wonder if you have an axe (sorry, no pun intended) to grind; 
if negative, your opinion is hard to judge and is almost inevitably 
biased and based on limited evidence.


The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about.  The price 
of new lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made cello 
would cost!  That's not because cello makers are greedy people, it's 
just that the price of a cello more accurately reflects the amount of 
work and expertise which goes into it. Even a cello maker earns less 
than a plumber or electrician.


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's 
surprising how few people ask more than they paid, even if they've had 
the lute for a number of years.  So sometimes there are excellent 
bargains to be had in the for sale columns.


My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what to 
look for in a secondhand lute.


All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, 
whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to 
reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
protection is active.

http://www.avast.com



To get on or off this list see list information at
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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Martin Shepherd
Dan, as you say, I specified good lutes.  Age will clearly not help 
anything which was never any good in the first place.


When we have weeded out the lutes which are simply never going to be any 
good, that leaves a large number (perhaps the majority) where some TLC 
from someone who knows what they're doing in terms of stringing, 
spacings, setup, fretting, peg-fitting etc will greatly improve things.  
That's where you should send your students.


M
On 15/10/2014 20:47, Dan Winheld wrote:


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that...


Martin, I suspect that you and I have been experiencing quite 
different used/old lutes. Of course, you do specify good lute; but 
as an active lute teacher here in Berkeley I can tell you that the 
instruments that my beginning players bring- or obtain out of the 
LSA's rental stable- weren't nearly good enough to begin with, or we 
need to wait a few more aeons for them to come up to par. I should be 
getting kickbacks from all the lutes my students have been 
commissioning from various builders here in North America. But you 
seem to see more clearly than I did the pitfalls of mentioning 
luthiers by name in Roman's article.


For a good discussion in regard to lute/luthier pricing- with a little 
necessary cold water in the face- I highly reccomend (in addition to 
Martin's own site) Mel Wong's blog site, Black Bird String Arts:


http://www.blackbirdstringarts.com/about/

Dan

On 10/15/2014 11:14 AM, Martin Shepherd wrote:

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you 
say about them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and 
arguably downright rude.  If your comment is positive, someone 
reading it might wonder if you have an axe (sorry, no pun intended) 
to grind; if negative, your opinion is hard to judge and is almost 
inevitably biased and based on limited evidence.


The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about.  The 
price of new lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made 
cello would cost!  That's not because cello makers are greedy people, 
it's just that the price of a cello more accurately reflects the 
amount of work and expertise which goes into it. Even a cello maker 
earns less than a plumber or electrician.


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's 
surprising how few people ask more than they paid, even if they've 
had the lute for a number of years.  So sometimes there are excellent 
bargains to be had in the for sale columns.


My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what to 
look for in a secondhand lute.


All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute 
sellers, whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine 
to reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm 
canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT




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protection is active.

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To get on or off this list see list information at
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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Dan Winheld
Oh, I do that too. And the local dude who gets these repair referrals 
knows who he is...  However, the little jobs like nut spacing, fret 
replacement, even some bridge hole tweaking, and ESPECIALLY 
stringing/re-stringing I do myself- student's lutes go up on the padded 
dining room table, off go the old frets- on go the new frets, etc.  
Work-shop self-help is some of the lute lesson experience in my living room.


Dan


On 10/15/2014 11:59 AM, Martin Shepherd wrote:
Dan, as you say, I specified good lutes.  Age will clearly not help 
anything which was never any good in the first place.


When we have weeded out the lutes which are simply never going to be 
any good, that leaves a large number (perhaps the majority) where some 
TLC from someone who knows what they're doing in terms of stringing, 
spacings, setup, fretting, peg-fitting etc will greatly improve 
things.  That's where you should send your students.


M
On 15/10/2014 20:47, Dan Winheld wrote:


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that...


Martin, I suspect that you and I have been experiencing quite 
different used/old lutes. Of course, you do specify good lute; but 
as an active lute teacher here in Berkeley I can tell you that the 
instruments that my beginning players bring- or obtain out of the 
LSA's rental stable- weren't nearly good enough to begin with, or we 
need to wait a few more aeons for them to come up to par. I should be 
getting kickbacks from all the lutes my students have been 
commissioning from various builders here in North America. But you 
seem to see more clearly than I did the pitfalls of mentioning 
luthiers by name in Roman's article.


For a good discussion in regard to lute/luthier pricing- with a 
little necessary cold water in the face- I highly reccomend (in 
addition to Martin's own site) Mel Wong's blog site, Black Bird 
String Arts:


http://www.blackbirdstringarts.com/about/

Dan

On 10/15/2014 11:14 AM, Martin Shepherd wrote:

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you 
say about them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and 
arguably downright rude.  If your comment is positive, someone 
reading it might wonder if you have an axe (sorry, no pun intended) 
to grind; if negative, your opinion is hard to judge and is almost 
inevitably biased and based on limited evidence.


The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about. The 
price of new lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made 
cello would cost!  That's not because cello makers are greedy 
people, it's just that the price of a cello more accurately reflects 
the amount of work and expertise which goes into it. Even a cello 
maker earns less than a plumber or electrician.


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's 
surprising how few people ask more than they paid, even if they've 
had the lute for a number of years.  So sometimes there are 
excellent bargains to be had in the for sale columns.


My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what 
to look for in a secondhand lute.


All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute 
sellers, whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine 
to reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm 
canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT




---
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protection is active.

http://www.avast.com



To get on or off this list see list information at
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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com
Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I 
could get to the distorted swanneck curve..
I will read your advice, and incorporate whatever I can, with your 
indulgence.

RT

On 10/15/2014 2:14 PM, Martin Shepherd wrote:

Well, Roman, I can see why you upset a few people.

I think mentioning lute makers or players by name, whether what you 
say about them is positive or negative, is just a bad idea - and 
arguably downright rude.  If your comment is positive, someone reading 
it might wonder if you have an axe (sorry, no pun intended) to grind; 
if negative, your opinion is hard to judge and is almost inevitably 
biased and based on limited evidence.


The price of a lute is difficult to make a judgement about.  The price 
of new lutes is way too low - consider what a decent hand-made cello 
would cost!  That's not because cello makers are greedy people, it's 
just that the price of a cello more accurately reflects the amount of 
work and expertise which goes into it. Even a cello maker earns less 
than a plumber or electrician.


The price of secondhand lutes is more difficult.  A good lute gets 
better with age, and perhaps the price should reflect that, but it's 
surprising how few people ask more than they paid, even if they've had 
the lute for a number of years.  So sometimes there are excellent 
bargains to be had in the for sale columns.


My site also has a page on buying a lute, including advice on what to 
look for in a secondhand lute.


All the best,

Martin

On 15/10/2014 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Dear Collective Wisdom,
Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, 
whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to 
reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing

for ideas that can be added to it -
http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
Reply publicly!
RT




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
protection is active.

http://www.avast.com



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Matthew Daillie
Hi Roman,

Well, we've had this discussion before but I really can't agree on your minimum 
width for a 13-course lute. In paragraph 3 you say ' Make sure the bridge is 
not too narrow, ideally in the vicinity of 155mm between the 1st and the 13th 
course. If it measures only 145mm - stay away. Your thumb will be very sorry, 
and rather useless. Personally I think that 145 mm is a very comfortable 
spacing and anything over 150 mm quickly becomes unmanageable. Overall width is 
just one factor, and the distance between individual courses and the strings of 
each course is another. I have played a well set-up lute with a bridge space of 
140 mm which felt very natural. People have different techniques and 
preferences so I don't think such a sweeping statement can be left 
unquestioned, especially when, as David Van Edwards points out, there is so 
much variety in historical bridge spaces.

As for the action recommendations in paragraph 4, I agree that anything above 
4mm at the 8th fret is to be avoided, but some very well set-up lutes can have 
an action as low as 2.8 mm and not buzz even when played powerfully. Here again 
I feel that one has to bring other factors into account such as how true the 
fingerboard is, it's thickness and width, how it is fretted and how the dishing 
is built into the soundboard.

Paragraph 6 deals with the problems with swan-neck lutes. It is almost 
inevitable that even the best made of these models often have the upper neck 
pull up and twist over time, it is pretty much inherent in the design and can 
require remedial work (such as a new upper nut, for example). I have never 
heard of that pulling a bridge off though.

Best

Matthew

On 15 oct. 2014, at 17:30, r.turov...@gmail.com r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dear Collective Wisdom,
 Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute sellers, whose 
 sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
 Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine to reflect 
 the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm canvassing
 for ideas that can be added to it -
 http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
 Reply publicly!
 RT
 
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html


--


[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread howard posner

On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I could 
 get to the distorted swanneck curve..

Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your view 
of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are players who 
have different views.



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com

No way.
I'm channeling Pat's idea/ls.
RT


On 10/15/2014 3:51 PM, howard posner wrote:

On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:


Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I could 
get to the distorted swanneck curve..

Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your view 
of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are players who 
have different views.




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http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html


[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com
   I still distinctly remember the misery that Guy Marchand went through
   on a 145mm axe.
   The situation comes up at fairly regular intervals, so I'll stand by
   what I wrote.
   The pegbox distortion viz bridge situation was discussed with 2
   reputable luthiers.
   RT
   On 10/15/2014 3:45 PM, Matthew Daillie wrote:

   Hi Roman,

   Well, we've had this discussion before but I really can't agree on your
   minimum width for a 13-course lute. In paragraph 3 you say ' Make sure
   the bridge is not too narrow, ideally in the vicinity of 155mm between
   the 1st and the 13th course. If it measures only 145mm - stay away.
   Your thumb will be very sorry, and rather useless. Personally I think
   that 145 mm is a very comfortable spacing and anything over 150 mm
   quickly becomes unmanageable. Overall width is just one factor, and the
   distance between individual courses and the strings of each course is
   another. I have played a well set-up lute with a bridge space of 140 mm
   which felt very natural. People have different techniques and
   preferences so I don't think such a sweeping statement can be left
   unquestioned, especially when, as David Van Edwards points out, there
   is so much variety in historical bridge spaces.

   As for the action recommendations in paragraph 4, I agree that anything
   above 4mm at the 8th fret is to be avoided, but some very well set-up
   lutes can have an action as low as 2.8 mm and not buzz even when played
   powerfully. Here again I feel that one has to bring other factors into
   account such as how true the fingerboard is, it's thickness and width,
   how it is fretted and how the dishing is built into the soundboard.

   Paragraph 6 deals with the problems with swan-neck lutes. It is almost
   inevitable that even the best made of these models often have the upper
   neck pull up and twist over time, it is pretty much inherent in the
   design and can require remedial work (such as a new upper nut, for
   example). I have never heard of that pulling a bridge off though.

   Best

   Matthew

   On 15 oct. 2014, at 17:30, [1]r.turov...@gmail.com
   [2]r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dear Collective Wisdom,
 Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute
 sellers, whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
 Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine
 to reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm
 canvassing
 for ideas that can be added to it -
 [3]http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
 Reply publicly!
 RT
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [4]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
   2. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
   3. http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
   4. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html



[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Dan Winheld
Damn, I would have put money on a scenario involving a furious Papazian 
owner losing a $5,000 sale to a buyer that your article would have 
warned off. (Those things will take your left hand off at the wrist 
faster than a Pirhana in the bathtub if you attempt a barre chord. I 
speak from personal experience.)


13 course spacing at the bridge? My own Robert Lundberg original is 
exactly 150, on the nose. Works perfectly for me. One of my Baroque lute 
students (Burkholtzer copy) has about 155, feels like A Bridge too Far 
to me, playing 12th  13 w/thumb,  top 3 courses w/ima- but preferable 
to too narrow. My other Baroque lute student also has a Burkholtzer copy 
by the same builder has a much narrower spacing, (his exact specs to the 
builder) too narrow for me and everyone else who has ever tried it 
(including Nigel North) but he is perfectly comfortable, never misses a 
note because of the spacing. Has large hands, too.


On spacing, general guidelines yes, kind of, but a very personal thing, 
so YMMV. The string spacing at the bridge on the original Chambure 
Vihuela is apparently much too narrow for virtually anyone; both 
Barber-Harris  Dan Larson only offer it as a cautionary option.


Dan

On 10/15/2014 12:51 PM, howard posner wrote:

On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:


Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I could 
get to the distorted swanneck curve..

Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your view 
of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are players who 
have different views.



To get on or off this list see list information at
http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html






[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com

That is probably why it survived. No one could play it.
RT


On 10/15/2014 4:41 PM, Dan Winheld wrote:
Damn, I would have put money on a scenario involving a furious 
Papazian owner losing a $5,000 sale to a buyer that your article would 
have warned off. (Those things will take your left hand off at the 
wrist faster than a Pirhana in the bathtub if you attempt a barre 
chord. I speak from personal experience.)


13 course spacing at the bridge? My own Robert Lundberg original is 
exactly 150, on the nose. Works perfectly for me. One of my Baroque 
lute students (Burkholtzer copy) has about 155, feels like A Bridge 
too Far to me, playing 12th  13 w/thumb,  top 3 courses w/ima- but 
preferable to too narrow. My other Baroque lute student also has a 
Burkholtzer copy by the same builder has a much narrower spacing, (his 
exact specs to the builder) too narrow for me and everyone else who 
has ever tried it (including Nigel North) but he is perfectly 
comfortable, never misses a note because of the spacing. Has large 
hands, too.


On spacing, general guidelines yes, kind of, but a very personal 
thing, so YMMV. The string spacing at the bridge on the original 
Chambure Vihuela is apparently much too narrow for virtually anyone; 
both Barber-Harris  Dan Larson only offer it as a cautionary option.


Dan

On 10/15/2014 12:51 PM, howard posner wrote:

On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before 
I could get to the distorted swanneck curve..
Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with 
your view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that 
there are players who have different views.




To get on or off this list see list information at
http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html








[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread howard posner
OK, but if you’re catching flak about your remarks on bridge spacing, and you 
know you won’t change those remarks even to say that not everyone agrees with 
you about it, why are you asking for ideas?
 
On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:58 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 No way.
 I'm channeling Pat's idea/ls.
 RT
 
 
 On 10/15/2014 3:51 PM, howard posner wrote:
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I 
 could get to the distorted swanneck curve..
 Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your 
 view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are 
 players who have different views.
 
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html





[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r.turov...@gmail.com
   There are statistics
   [1]https://www.mail-archive.com/lute@cs.dartmouth.edu/msg19722.html
   which offer 2 possibilities -
   narrow ones were played with nails
   and/or unplayed at all.
   Back in the 50s and 60s when Bream was THE lutenist, the strings were
   almost parallel, as suited a guitarist with nails. When flesh playing
   became the norm in the mid 70s - the string band widened at the bridge.
   So there ya go...
   also -
   pure gut on narrow bridges? no way.
   You can't fit all that rope, never mind navigating it.
   I remember Pat's Burkholzer 13c which was the first baroque lute Andy
   Rutherford had built. It was rather narrow, bat manageable with
   Pyramids. A subsequent owner restrung it in all-gut and it became
   utterly unplayable.
RT
   Hi Roman,

   Well, we've had this discussion before but I really can't agree on your
   minimum width for a 13-course lute. In paragraph 3 you say ' Make sure
   the bridge is not too narrow, ideally in the vicinity of 155mm between
   the 1st and the 13th course. If it measures only 145mm - stay away.
   Your thumb will be very sorry, and rather useless. Personally I think
   that 145 mm is a very comfortable spacing and anything over 150 mm
   quickly becomes unmanageable. Overall width is just one factor, and the
   distance between individual courses and the strings of each course is
   another. I have played a well set-up lute with a bridge space of 140 mm
   which felt very natural. People have different techniques and
   preferences so I don't think such a sweeping statement can be left
   unquestioned, especially when, as David Van Edwards points out, there
   is so much variety in historical bridge spaces.

   As for the action recommendations in paragraph 4, I agree that anything
   above 4mm at the 8th fret is to be avoided, but some very well set-up
   lutes can have an action as low as 2.8 mm and not buzz even when played
   powerfully. Here again I feel that one has to bring other factors into
   account such as how true the fingerboard is, it's thickness and width,
   how it is fretted and how the dishing is built into the soundboard.

   Paragraph 6 deals with the problems with swan-neck lutes. It is almost
   inevitable that even the best made of these models often have the upper
   neck pull up and twist over time, it is pretty much inherent in the
   design and can require remedial work (such as a new upper nut, for
   example). I have never heard of that pulling a bridge off though.

   Best

   Matthew

   On 15 oct. 2014, at 17:30, [2]r.turov...@gmail.com
   [3]r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Dear Collective Wisdom,
 Recently I had a few unpleasant conversations with some lute
 sellers, whose sales were thwarted by the advice given by me.
 Therefore I've decided to update and revise an old article of mine
 to reflect the practicalities of buying used lutes. So now I'm
 canvassing
 for ideas that can be added to it -
 [4]http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
 Reply publicly!
 RT
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [5]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. https://www.mail-archive.com/lute@cs.dartmouth.edu/msg19722.html
   2. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
   3. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
   4. http://polyhymnion.org/swv/theaxe.html
   5. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html



[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Charles Mokotoff
   That's funny! As probably the only extant Papazian lute owner/player in
   the world today (possible?) I beg to differ. It isn't that hard to
   play, my only complaint is it was hard to find strings, and with a 64cm
   string length, the tension is awfully high on the trebles, making
   subtle tuning of the top courses very difficult. I get far more
   discomfort from tuning it than playing it!
   Doesn't sound all that
   bad:A [1]http://charlesmokotoff.com/misc/lute/willoughby.wav

   On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:41 PM, Dan Winheld [2]dwinh...@lmi.net
   wrote:

 Damn, I would have put money on a scenario involving a furious
 Papazian owner losing a $5,000 sale to a buyer that your article
 would have warned off. (Those things will take your left hand off at
 the wrist faster than a Pirhana in the bathtub if you attempt a
 barre chord. I speak from personal experience.)
 13 course spacing at the bridge? My own Robert Lundberg original is
 exactly 150, on the nose. Works perfectly for me. One of my Baroque
 lute students (Burkholtzer copy) has about 155, feels like A Bridge
 too Far to me, playing 12th  13 w/thumb,  top 3 courses w/ima-
 but preferable to too narrow. My other Baroque lute student also has
 a Burkholtzer copy by the same builder has a much narrower spacing,
 (his exact specs to the builder) too narrow for me and everyone else
 who has ever tried it (including Nigel North) but he is perfectly
 comfortable, never misses a note because of the spacing. Has large
 hands, too.
 On spacing, general guidelines yes, kind of, but a very personal
 thing, so YMMV. The string spacing at the bridge on the original
 Chambure Vihuela is apparently much too narrow for virtually anyone;
 both Barber-Harris  Dan Larson only offer it as a cautionary
 option.
 Dan

   On 10/15/2014 12:51 PM, howard posner wrote:

 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, [3]r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before
 I could get to the distorted swanneck curve..

 Previous discussions indicate that there's a lot of disagreement
 with your view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear
 that there are players who have different views.
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 [4]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

   --

References

   1. http://charlesmokotoff.com/misc/lute/willoughby.wav
   2. mailto:dwinh...@lmi.net
   3. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
   4. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html



[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Matthew Daillie
Hear, hear!



 On Oct 15, 2014, at 22:50, howard posner howardpos...@ca.rr.com wrote:
 
 OK, but if you’re catching flak about your remarks on bridge spacing, and you 
 know you won’t change those remarks even to say that not everyone agrees with 
 you about it, why are you asking for ideas?
 
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:58 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 No way.
 I'm channeling Pat's idea/ls.
 RT
 
 
 On 10/15/2014 3:51 PM, howard posner wrote:
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I 
 could get to the distorted swanneck curve..
 Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your 
 view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are 
 players who have different views.
 
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
 
 




[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread r . turovsky
Huh?
All the players I respect tend to have wider bridges, and Pat's own 
Jauck-Rutherford was even 157 mm. My 155 was copied from Barto's.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 15, 2014, at 5:37 PM, Matthew Daillie dail...@club-internet.fr wrote:

 Hear, hear!
 
 
 
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 22:50, howard posner howardpos...@ca.rr.com wrote:
 
 OK, but if you’re catching flak about your remarks on bridge spacing, and 
 you know you won’t change those remarks even to say that not everyone agrees 
 with you about it, why are you asking for ideas?
 
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:58 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 No way.
 I'm channeling Pat's idea/ls.
 RT
 
 
 On 10/15/2014 3:51 PM, howard posner wrote:
 On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before I 
 could get to the distorted swanneck curve..
 Previous discussions indicate that there’s a lot of disagreement with your 
 view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear that there are 
 players who have different views.
 
 
 
 To get on or off this list see list information at
 http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
 
 




[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Dan Winheld
Hey! Not bad at all; very good sound (given computer  recording 
circumstances) good playing, ornaments too. I would suggest backing off 
the tempo a couple clicks, sounds a little bit rushed (can't make the 
old lute teacher keep his mouth shut, sorry!) You must have a left hand 
like a vise. I could probably use you to open a few jars around here now 
and then...


I visited Manouk Papazian in his New York shop all those years ago (1965 
or 66), the instruments weren't that bad except that I couldn't begin to 
fret them- ended up with a much more playable 9 course from David Rubio- 
but still it was a bone saddle, metal fret, higher-than-historic string 
tension compromise.


If the instrument still means a lot to you, you might consider the 
latest generation of mechanical planetary gear pegs. Your instrument may 
be the perfect candidate for those things.


Dan

On 10/15/2014 2:25 PM, Charles Mokotoff wrote:

That's funny! As probably the only extant Papazian lute owner/player in
the world today (possible?) I beg to differ. It isn't that hard to
play, my only complaint is it was hard to find strings, and with a 64cm
string length, the tension is awfully high on the trebles, making
subtle tuning of the top courses very difficult. I get far more
discomfort from tuning it than playing it!
Doesn't sound all that
bad:A [1]http://charlesmokotoff.com/misc/lute/willoughby.wav

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:41 PM, Dan Winheld [2]dwinh...@lmi.net
wrote:

  Damn, I would have put money on a scenario involving a furious
  Papazian owner losing a $5,000 sale to a buyer that your article
  would have warned off. (Those things will take your left hand off at
  the wrist faster than a Pirhana in the bathtub if you attempt a
  barre chord. I speak from personal experience.)
  13 course spacing at the bridge? My own Robert Lundberg original is
  exactly 150, on the nose. Works perfectly for me. One of my Baroque
  lute students (Burkholtzer copy) has about 155, feels like A Bridge
  too Far to me, playing 12th  13 w/thumb,  top 3 courses w/ima-
  but preferable to too narrow. My other Baroque lute student also has
  a Burkholtzer copy by the same builder has a much narrower spacing,
  (his exact specs to the builder) too narrow for me and everyone else
  who has ever tried it (including Nigel North) but he is perfectly
  comfortable, never misses a note because of the spacing. Has large
  hands, too.
  On spacing, general guidelines yes, kind of, but a very personal
  thing, so YMMV. The string spacing at the bridge on the original
  Chambure Vihuela is apparently much too narrow for virtually anyone;
  both Barber-Harris  Dan Larson only offer it as a cautionary
  option.
  Dan

On 10/15/2014 12:51 PM, howard posner wrote:

  On Oct 15, 2014, at 12:39 PM, [3]r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

  Actually the brouhaha was mainly about the bridge width, even before
  I could get to the distorted swanneck curve..

  Previous discussions indicate that there's a lot of disagreement
  with your view of bridge spacing; you might want to make it clear
  that there are players who have different views.
  To get on or off this list see list information at
  [4]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html

--

References

1. http://charlesmokotoff.com/misc/lute/willoughby.wav
2. mailto:dwinh...@lmi.net
3. mailto:r.turov...@gmail.com
4. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html







[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread Geoff Gaherty

On 2014-10-15, 6:36 PM, Dan Winheld wrote:

I visited Manouk Papazian in his New York shop all those years ago (1965
or 66), the instruments weren't that bad except that I couldn't begin to
fret them- ended up with a much more playable 9 course from David Rubio-
but still it was a bone saddle, metal fret, higher-than-historic string
tension compromise.


That sounds a bit like my first lute, which was one of the first Mike 
Schreiner built when he was still working in Larrivee's workshop...in 
fact it had Larrivee's label inside it.  It started out as a 10-course, 
but Mike rebuilt as an 8-course, shaving away a lot of the wood inside 
in the process.  Then my teacher told me he had a guitar student 
interested in buying a lute, and that this would probably be my last 
chance to sell it for a decent price.  I replaced it with one of Mike's 
7-course Veneres, which is still serving me well today.


Geoff

--
Geoff Gaherty
Foxmead Observatory
Coldwater, Ontario, Canada
http://www.gaherty.ca
http://starrynightskyevents.blogspot.com/



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[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes - bridge spacing

2014-10-15 Thread Ed Durbrow
If one plays several instruments, having them similar might be a consideration 
for bridge spacing. Bream had his lute the same scale as his guitar, I believe. 
My Ren lute is my main instrument. I have no problem with my right hand when 
playing my archlute because the spacing is not that different on the top 7 
strings from my Ren lute, but I never have gotten comfortable with my Baroque 
lute because I always hit the 6th string when I intend to hit the 5th. Well not 
always, but the spacing is so narrow I have to play it exclusively for some 
time to get used to it. On the archlute, I don’t mind the narrow spacing of the 
lower 7, but of course they are single. 

I think different people are going to have different choices with spacing and 
people can adapt to narrow or wide spacing. It may take time. I had my archlute 
spacing narrowed because I simply could not hit certain notes together. 
However, I think if I would have hung on another year or two, I might have 
gotten used to stretching more. Also, looking at some of the narrow vihuela and 
lute spacings in pictures makes me really wonder about what R.H. techniques 
were in use.  

On Oct 16, 2014, at 5:41 AM, Dan Winheld dwinh...@lmi.net wrote:

 Damn, I would have put money on a scenario involving a furious Papazian owner 
 losing a $5,000 sale to a buyer that your article would have warned off. 
 (Those things will take your left hand off at the wrist faster than a Pirhana 
 in the bathtub if you attempt a barre chord. I speak from personal 
 experience.)
 
 13 course spacing at the bridge? My own Robert Lundberg original is exactly 
 150, on the nose. Works perfectly for me. One of my Baroque lute students 
 (Burkholtzer copy) has about 155, feels like A Bridge too Far to me, 
 playing 12th  13 w/thumb,  top 3 courses w/ima- but preferable to too 
 narrow. My other Baroque lute student also has a Burkholtzer copy by the same 
 builder has a much narrower spacing, (his exact specs to the builder) too 
 narrow for me and everyone else who has ever tried it (including Nigel North) 
 but he is perfectly comfortable, never misses a note because of the spacing. 
 Has large hands, too.
 
 On spacing, general guidelines yes, kind of, but a very personal thing, so 
 YMMV. The string spacing at the bridge on the original Chambure Vihuela is 
 apparently much too narrow for virtually anyone; both Barber-Harris  Dan 
 Larson only offer it as a cautionary option.

Ed Durbrow
Saitama, Japan
http://www.youtube.com/user/edurbrow?feature=watch
https://soundcloud.com/ed-durbrow
http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/





--

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http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html


[LUTE] Re: beginners, and practicalities of buying lutes

2014-10-15 Thread howard posner
I asked the point of asking for ideas if you’ve already decided you’re not 
going to change the thing you’re asking ideas about, even to acknowledge that 
some players disagree with you. 

On Oct 15, 2014, at 2:46 PM, r.turov...@gmail.com wrote:

 Huh?
 All the players I respect tend to have wider bridges, and Pat's own 
 Jauck-Rutherford was even 157 mm. My 155 was copied from Barto's.


The players you respect aren’t the ones reading your remarks for beginners.  If 
you mean to say “I shouldn’t acknowledge that anyone disagrees with me, because 
I’m right,” then I still wonder why you’ve asked anyone else’s opinion.

On a less contentious note, an editing idea: the possessive “its” has no 
apostrophe.



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