[Biofuel] Power Consumption of Lighting Timers

2009-05-13 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

I hope the cross-post is OK.  I'm looking at adding a photo-sensitive
lighting timer for my lamp post light.  However, I'm having a hard
time finding the energy consumption of the timer itself.  Our lamp
post light is already on a photo sensor and we use a CFL bulb.
Ideally, the timer will only consume energy while the light is on and
it should consume a watt or less in order to make it practical and
beneficial.  I can't seem to find that information, though.  Any help
you might be able to provide would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken

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[Biofuel] WVO Sludge Disposal - Cross posted

2008-05-14 Thread Ken Dunn
What are you doing with your WVO sludge?  I know this topics been discussed
in the past but, it seems only to a limited degree.  I have two needs - the
first is long term - how am I going to handle the sludge from my regular
use?  I use WVO in my car and in my boiler.

The second concern is more immediate...I have a fair amount of WVO sludge
(probably around 100 gallons) and I need to find a eco-friendly solution for
disposing of it.  I think 100 gallons is more than my compost pile can
handle.  Furthermore, some of the oil that I had was less than ideal quality
so the sludge really stinks.  I also think that I could dispose of it one
cubie at a time in my trash pickup but, that is not eco-friendly at all.

One thing is certain - I have to be more selective about the restaurants
that I get my oil from.

Thanks in advance,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Official: organic really is better

2007-10-31 Thread Ken Dunn
Interestingly, I can't find a single reference to hese findings in a
single reputable U.S. source.  I have recently seen media coverage
that directly contradicts this study, though.  I'm very curious if we
(here in the U.S.) ever see any coverage on the topic.  Given the
ridiculous USDA organic standards (if you can call them standards),
I'm not sure how much it would matter.

On 10/29/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/health/article2753446.ece
 From The Sunday Times

 October 28, 2007

 Official: organic really is better

 Jon Ungoed-Thomas

 THE biggest study into organic food has found that it is more nutritious
 than ordinary produce and may help to lengthen people's lives.

 The evidence from the £12m four-year project will end years of debate and
 is likely to overturn government advice that eating organic food is no
 more than a lifestyle choice.

 The study found that organic fruit and vegetables contained as much as 40%
 more antioxidants, which scientists believe can cut the risk of cancer and
 heart disease, Britain's biggest killers. They also had higher levels of
 beneficial minerals such as iron and zinc.

 Professor Carlo Leifert, the co-ordinator of the European Union-funded
 project, said the differences were so marked that organic produce would
 help to increase the nutrient intake of people not eating the recommended
 five portions a day of fruit and vegetables. If you have just 20% more
 antioxidants and you can't get your kids to do five a day, then you might
 just be okay with four a day, he said.

 This weekend the Food Standards Agency confirmed that it was reviewing the
 evidence before deciding whether to change its advice. Ministers and the
 agency have said there are no significant differences between organic and
 ordinary produce.

 Researchers grew fruit and vegetables and reared cattle on adjacent
 organic and nonorganic sites on a 725-acre farm attached to Newcastle
 University, and at other sites in Europe. They found that levels of
 antioxidants in milk from organic herds were up to 90% higher than in milk
 from conventional herds.

 As well as finding up to 40% more antioxidants in organic vegetables, they
 also found that organic tomatoes from Greece had significantly higher
 levels of antioxidants, including flavo-noids thought to reduce coronary
 heart disease.

 Leifert said the government was wrong about there being no difference
 between organic and conventional produce. There is enough evidence now
 that the level of good things is higher in organics, he said.

 Letter from the Food Standards Agency

 http://extras.timesonline.co.uk/organicfood1.pdf

 The Food Standards Agency's current stance on organic food

 http://extras.timesonline.co.uk/organicfood2.pdf


 


 http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/health/article2753546.ece
 From The Sunday Times

 October 28, 2007

 Eat your words, all who scoff at organic food

 Jon Ungoed-Thomas

 ITS unassuming location belies its importance. Sandwiched between
 Hadrian's Wall and the busy A69 road to Newcastle upon Tyne is a 725-acre
 farm that will help to determine the nation's future eating habits.

 In a unique experiment, its rolling pastures and ploughed fields have been
 split into two so that conventional and organic produce can be grown side
 by side. It has enabled scientists to test the alternative foods
 rigorously and answer a question that most shoppers ask themselves on a
 regular basis: is buying organic better for you?

 Findings from the £12m European Union-funded project, the biggest of its
 kind and the first to investigate systematically the physiology of produce
 from the different farming techniques, will be peer reviewed and published
 over the next 12 months.

 But already one conclusion is clear: organically produced crops and dairy
 milk usually contain more beneficial compounds - such as vitamins and
 antioxidants believed to help to combat disease.

 Related Links

 Official: organic really is better

 We have a general trend in the data that says there are more good things
 in organic food, said Professor Carlo Leifert, leader of the
 QualityLowInput-Food (QLIF) project. We are now trying to identify the
 agricultural practices that are responsible for this.

 The research has shown up to 40% more beneficial compounds in vegetable
 crops and up to 90% more in milk. It has also found high levels of
 minerals such as iron and zinc in organic produce.

 The findings from the farm, which is part of Newcastle University, appear
 to conflict with the official government advice that buying organic food
 is a lifestyle choice and there is no clear evidence that it is more
 nutritious than other food.

 The new research comes after a seven-year stand-off between the Food
 Standards Agency (FSA) and the organic sector over the nutritional
 benefits of organic food. Lord Krebs, the FSA's first chairman, even said
 that organic 

[Biofuel] Interesting Spin

2007-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn
I'm sure glad that I can go straight to the source and get beyond this
sort of garbage.

http://local.lancasteronline.com/4/211388

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[Biofuel] Methanol Suppliers

2006-12-27 Thread Ken Dunn

Hi all,

I need a better supply of methanol.  My local supplier is charging
$5.75/gallon.  AND, I have to call ahead so they can re-package it.  Can
anyone point me to a better source in south central Pennsylvania?  Or, I
suppose, I'd be willing to have it shipped but, I'd prefer to buy as locally
as possible.

Thanks,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Fw: Allah or Jesus?

2006-11-15 Thread Ken Dunn

On 11/15/06, Jesse Frayne [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
snip

People who are scared and vulnerable are the

tools of those who might not be virtuous.  Yet there
are virtuous religious people.



snip

Personally, I think this statement covers the discussions very accurately.
In general, people are fearful of things they don't understand.  Distortions
are easily accepted when they help to explain any given situation.  And
unfortunately, evangelical religions are, by nature, meant to maintain and
increase their flocks.  Frankly, any cleric that uses fear to keep his or
her students in line is absolutely disgusting.  However, I'm surprised by
the shear number of Christians that are easily duped by the fear mongering.
I would think that any knowledgeable, devout Christian would take the
courageous example set by Jesus and cast off the scare tactics.  Not to
single out Christianity but, its the only religion that I know well enough
to even consider discussing.
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Re: [Biofuel] I need some advice

2006-11-06 Thread Ken Dunn
On 11/6/06, Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



  
  


The obvious answer is that if you make fuel you will be able to put it
in the car to go buy the parts you need to finish the reactor! ;)
Yeah, I think I'll just start into making some fuel. I'm going to use these initials trial to heat the house but, that's just as important as finishing the reactor. I probably don't have much of choice either though - some of the containers have been banged around a bit and have developed leaks. I think the oil might have been too hot when place info the containers. Most of the oil looks pretty good, though. Some of it doesn't even look used. A couple of local-ish folks have responded. If any of you have a good resource for methanol, I seem to have misplaced mine.
Thanks to all that have responded,Take care,KenLancaster County, PA
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[Biofuel] I need some advice

2006-11-03 Thread Ken Dunn
I have stumbled on about 200 gallons of WVO in the ~5 gallon containers that it came in. That part is great! I'll be picking it up this weekend. Now, the tricky part - in the spring I broke my ankle while skateboarding. That put an immediate halt to my processor development. Its probably 80% completed but, I don't even really remember what I was working on last. Now the even trickier part - my wife is not likely to be too patient with me having 50 - 5 gallon containers in the garage for too long. Now, I have 2 empty 55 gallon drums that I could put about half of it in but, I'm not sure if I want to tie those up for that purpose. Ok, so the question here is, do I work on the reactor to process the oil or do I just get down to the knitty gritty and make biodiesel? I could use the 5 gallon containers that the oil is in and just use the simple bucket method to get the job done. I suppose I feel a bit more confident in the simple method (probably because I have less waste if something goes wrong). I guess that I should add that at this point, I've only ever done test batches. I haven't done anymore that a gallon at a time. What do you think?
I hope everyone is doing well!Take care,KenLancaster County, PA
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[Biofuel] Ethanol and my car.

2006-10-05 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

Been a while since I posted (I broke my ankle skateboarding and I had
been sidelined for a while).  I've been playing catch-up ever since.
Any way,  since I've been back on my feet I've been working on my
camper (77 VW Bus) to get it ready for winter and keep it from falling
to bits.  Prior to my injury I had been trying to assemble the parts
to put a Rabbit diesel engine in it but, had run into problems finding
an affordable engine in decent condition.  Recently, I've been working
on getting the engine right since I don't have the money to do all the
body work that I want to do and today it occurred to me that I now
have a very good understanding of the fuel injection system on this
vehicle.  That got me to thinking that I might have the resources to
convert this engine to run ethanol.  I found this book in one of
Keith's posts:

How to Modify Your Car to Run on Alcohol Fuel (Guidelines for
Converting Gasoline Engines, with Specific Instructions for Air-Cooled
Volkswagens), R. Lippman, 1982.

Hmmm, fits my criteria pretty darned well if it covers fuel injection.
 Anyone have (or had) a copy?  Is it worthwhile?  It seems to me that
there might only be one part that would require replacement (I've
replaced all the rubber anyway) but, I've have to take a deeper look.
The way I remember it is that an adjustment to the spray pattern and
an increase in compression are both good things and that a preheater
is helpful during cold months.  Can anyone summarize or point me to
the changes needed to run ethanol?

Any additional help would be most appreciated.

Take care,
Ken

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[Biofuel] Atleast someone is willing to make a commitment

2006-06-01 Thread Ken Dunn
From the local paper.

http://local.lancasteronline.com/4/22918

New Holland goes biodiesel
By Patrick Burns, Intelligencer Journal Staff
Intelligencer Journal

Published: May 24, 2006 8:20 AM EST

LANCASTER COUNTY, PA - Farm equipment maker New Holland announced
Tuesday that it is the first U.S. engine manufacturer to fully
advocate the use of biodiesel blended fuels in all engines it
produces.


Joe Jobe, New Holland chief executive, said the company has gone one
better than other engine producers in fully adopting a maintenance and
technical support program for customers who want to use B20 blends (20
percent biodiesel 80 percent petroleum-based diesel) on all equipment
currently produced with New Holland engines.

Biodiesel is a renewable fuel produced from oilseed crops -- primarily
soybeans in the United States and canola in Canada, and animal fats --
that's blended with conventional diesel to meet specified industry
standards.

New Holland is the first to specifically say that they approve the
use of B20 in their engines, Jobe said.

Darryl Brinkmann, chairman of the National Biodiesel Board, said New
Holland's backing of biofuel use is consistent with the sentiments of
its farming customers.

This move by New Holland represents a strong show of support for the
soybean farmers who stepped up to the plate years ago to begin the
biodiesel program, Brinkman said.

New Holland is a brand of CNH Global, a world leader in agricultural,
utility and construction equipment.

Dennis D. Recker, vice president of New Holland Agricultural Business
in North America, said the company's decision came because of crude
oil prices.

Diesel sold on average for $3 per gallon in Lancaster Tuesday,
according to AAA. That's up 28 percent from a year ago and almost
double what it was in early 2004.

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Re: [Biofuel] Atleast someone is willing to make a commitment

2006-06-01 Thread Ken Dunn
On 6/1/06, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 B20 is a big step I admit, but how about B100?

I agree but, one big step is better than lying in the fetal position.

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Re: [Biofuel] BETTER MIXING BETTER BIODIESEL LESS ENERGY

2006-05-18 Thread Ken Dunn
What's the ebay item number for the information?  chuckle

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Re: [Biofuel] Thoughts on the Bush Admninistation

2006-04-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 4/19/06, Bobby Clark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 The Bush Administration is not trying to kill you. Sounds like a little
 paranoia.

Interesting...They used the death of 3000 Americans in New York as
justification to send another 3000 to die in Irag.  Not trying to kill
who?

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Re: [Biofuel] Bin Laden citing US polls about withdrawing from Iraq

2006-01-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 1/20/06, Michael Redler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 One sentence stood out among the others:

 The province of Ontario has authorized the use of sharia law in civil
 arbitrations, if both parties consent.

 That's pretty scary stuff. I reminds me of towns in the US trying to push
 religion in science class (i.e. creative design).


That was Dover, PA.  It recently got shot down and the school board
was overthrown in the recent election.  Dover is close enough to home
that I was pretty interested in how that all turned out.

Take care,

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Re: [Biofuel] Quick Britelyt Petromax report

2005-12-19 Thread Ken Dunn
Mike,

I'm sure this is not an exciting discovery for you but, it is
relieving to me.  Keep us posted.

Thanks,
Ken

On 12/19/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Finally warmed up enough to try the PetroMax stove again.  It flat out
 would not light on plain BD, even when I heated the ring with a torch.
 I mixed in some K1, and then a shot of gasoline.  Finally got a weak and
 spluttery flame - not enough to heat even a marshmallow.

 I dumped out the mix and filled it with new K1.  Got a better flame, but
 still not enough to heat any amount of oil.  It still sputtered though
 settled down somewhat
 finally.  It looks nothing like the cheerful flame in the video.  I'm
 going to call Britelyt today and see what they say.

 I suspect the problem has to do with pressure - the gauge came broken
 and I think the stove leaks down.

 My BD brewing buddy is an old Army hand and knows this type of stove and
 thought there is something wrong with the stove.

 -Mike


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Re: [Biofuel] Preheating heat source - BriteLyt?

2005-12-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Please, let us know how it does, Mike.

Take care,


On 12/5/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Just got a Britelyt today.  Haven't been able to get it to light on BD
 but I think it may be due to the fuel being too cold.  Will report back
 if I get it going.


 Ken Dunn wrote:

 What is everyone using as a heat source for preheating?  I'm thinking
 about buying the BriteLyt mentioned on JtF.  I could use it for other
 purposes as well which would be nice.  Anyone test it?  Care to
 comment?
 
 Take care,
 Ken
 
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Re: [Biofuel] Preheating heat source - BriteLyt? Petromax

2005-12-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Just selfishly thinking outloud...I wonder if it would be possible to
pre-preheat it with a Sterno.

On 12/6/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 What was the temperature outside?  I tried that with a torch and got a
 few sputters but no flame.
 Is kerosene the most logical agent to cut the BD with?

 Joe Street wrote:

  Hi Mike
 
  For what it's worth I tried running my multifuel backpacking stove on
  BD.  I had to warm the preheater / vaporizer tube with a propane torch
  to get it hot enough to vaporize the BD.  Once lit though it had a
  beautiful and stable blue flame and judging by boil time comparisons
  roughly the same heat as kerosene.  Esters have a high flash point and
  need a lot of heat to use in a stove that is designed to supply vapor
  to the jet.
 
  Joe
 
  Mike Weaver wrote:
 
 So far all attempts to light it have failed.  It's 30 degrees here and
 that may have something to do with it.  I cut the BD w/ a good shot of
 Dino diesel and still no go.  I got the preheater going but no flame on
 the ring.  I brought it inside overnight to warm up and will try it
 again.  If it doesn't go I'll mix in some kerosene.  The booklet says
 you have to preheat for 3 1/2 mins sometimes to get BD lit.  It came
 smelling of kerosene to I expect the factory lit it and tested it.  FWIW
 the pressure gauge is bad but it does hold pressure.
 
 I had hoped to use it to heat oil so the the bd process was all fueled
 by BD.
 
 I also looked at some of the camping stoves but they are very expensive
 and designed to be as light weight as possible.  The guy at the camping
 store said the thinner distillates works best.
 
 We'll see,
 
 Mike
 
 Ken Dunn wrote:
 
 
 
 Please, let us know how it does, Mike.
 
 Take care,
 
 
 On 12/5/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 
 
 Just got a Britelyt today.  Haven't been able to get it to light on BD
 but I think it may be due to the fuel being too cold.  Will report back
 if I get it going.
 
 
 Ken Dunn wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 What is everyone using as a heat source for preheating?  I'm thinking
 about buying the BriteLyt mentioned on JtF.  I could use it for other
 purposes as well which would be nice.  Anyone test it?  Care to
 comment?
 
 Take care,
 Ken
 
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Re: [Biofuel] Preheating heat source - BriteLyt? Petromax

2005-12-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Well that's bummer-style news there, Joe.  I was hoping to use a
multi-fuel stove on the trail as well as for preheating my biodiesel
process.  Of course, I suppose it would still be an improvement to use
the stove for preheating wvo to make biodiesel even with the propane
used from the torch to preheat the stove.  Better than electricity or
another petro based liquid fuel through out the whole process.  Have
you made any attempts to change the jet size on the stove?  Would that
be a worthwhile endeavor?  How about adding acetone? (just kidding).



On 12/6/06, Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I use jellied alcohol (like sterno but runny) for pre heating my stove on
 the trail.  It wasn't enough heat for the biodiesel though. Even with
 kerosene it takes a prolonged period of preheat with sterno to light the
 stove.  If you turn the fuel valve on prematurely you get liquid coming out
 the jet rather than vapor and then the liquid just burns with an awful sooty
 yellow flame.  With naptha (white gas) starting is a snap.  With kerosene it
 takes careful preparation, a wind screen and enough sterno.  With BD it
 takes a torch!

  Joe

  Ken Dunn wrote:

  Just selfishly thinking outloud...I wonder if it would be possible to
 pre-preheat it with a Sterno.

 On 12/6/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


  What was the temperature outside? I tried that with a torch and got a
 few sputters but no flame.
 Is kerosene the most logical agent to cut the BD with?

 Joe Street wrote:



  Hi Mike

 For what it's worth I tried running my multifuel backpacking stove on
 BD. I had to warm the preheater / vaporizer tube with a propane torch
 to get it hot enough to vaporize the BD. Once lit though it had a
 beautiful and stable blue flame and judging by boil time comparisons
 roughly the same heat as kerosene. Esters have a high flash point and
 need a lot of heat to use in a stove that is designed to supply vapor
 to the jet.

 Joe

 Mike Weaver wrote:



  So far all attempts to light it have failed. It's 30 degrees here and
 that may have something to do with it. I cut the BD w/ a good shot of
 Dino diesel and still no go. I got the preheater going but no flame on
 the ring. I brought it inside overnight to warm up and will try it
 again. If it doesn't go I'll mix in some kerosene. The booklet says
 you have to preheat for 3 1/2 mins sometimes to get BD lit. It came
 smelling of kerosene to I expect the factory lit it and tested it. FWIW
 the pressure gauge is bad but it does hold pressure.

 I had hoped to use it to heat oil so the the bd process was all fueled
 by BD.

 I also looked at some of the camping stoves but they are very expensive
 and designed to be as light weight as possible. The guy at the camping
 store said the thinner distillates works best.

 We'll see,

 Mike

 Ken Dunn wrote:





  Please, let us know how it does, Mike.

 Take care,


 On 12/5/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:






  Just got a Britelyt today. Haven't been able to get it to light on BD
 but I think it may be due to the fuel being too cold. Will report back
 if I get it going.


 Ken Dunn wrote:







  What is everyone using as a heat source for preheating? I'm thinking
 about buying the BriteLyt mentioned on JtF. I could use it for other
 purposes as well which would be nice. Anyone test it? Care to
 comment?

 Take care,
 Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] New question on oil seed crops and ley farming

2005-12-05 Thread Ken Dunn
On 11/30/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Greetings Ken

 That was a real pleasure to read, thankyou.

You're quite welcome.

 Your food shed, that's great! Footprints and food sheds.

I wish I had coined the term but, my best buddy uses the phrase
regularly and I'm pretty sure that he stole it from one or another
writer.

A few months back I stumbled across the article below in the archives.
 Looks like Doug Woodward first posted it.  I found it to be very
interesting and figure that it might be a good time for it to get
another look.  Based solely on this article I really don't see
anything that precludes animal free organic farming from being
sustainable.  It appears to point to both organic farming with and
without animals as being sustainable.  In my opinion, it clearly shows
advantages of organic farming both with or without animals.  But you
all can be the judge of that.

The Institute of Science in Society: Science Society
Sustainability
http://www.i-sis.org.uk

General Enquiries  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Website/Mailing List  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
ISIS Director  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

This article can be found on the I-SIS website at
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/OBCA.php



ISIS Press Release 12/09/05

Organic Agriculture Enters Mainstream
**

Organic Yields on Par with Conventional and Ahead During
Drought Years

But by far the greatest gains are due to savings on damages
to public health and the environment estimated at more than
US$59 billion a year Dr. Mae-Wan Ho puts the nail on the
coffin on industrial agriculture

A fully referenced version of this article is posted on ISIS
members' website http://www.i-sis.org.uk/full/OBCAFull.php.
Details here http://www.i-sis.org.uk/membership.php

Myths die hard

Scientists who should know better - if only they had kept up
with the literature - continue to tell the world that
organic agriculture invariably means lower yields,
especially compared to industrial high input agriculture,
even when this has long been proven false (see for example,
Organic agriculture fights back SiS 16 [1];
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/isisnews/sis16.php
Organic production works, SiS 25 [2]).
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/isisnews/sis25.php




Researchers led by David Pimenthal, ecologist and
agricultural scientist at Cornell University, New York, have
now reviewed data from long-term field investigations and
confirmed that organic yields are no different from
conventional under normal growing conditions, but that they
are far ahead during drought years [3]. The reasons are well
known: organic soils have greater capacity to retain water
as well as nutrients such as nitrogen.

Organic soils are also more efficient carbon sinks, and
organic management saves on fossil fuel, both of which are
important for mitigating global warming.

But by far the greatest gains are in savings on externalised
costs associated with conventional industrial farming, which
are estimated to exceed 25 percent of the total market value
of United States' agricultural output.

Long-term field trials at Rodale Institute

From 1981 through 2002, field investigations were conducted
at Rodale Institute in Kutztown, Pennsylvania on 6.1 ha.
Three different cropping systems: conventional, animal
manure and legume-based organic, and legume-based organic.
Plots (18 x 92 m) were split into three (6 x 92 m) subplots,
which are large enough for farm-scale equipment to be used
for operations and harvesting. The main plots were separated
with a 1.5 m grass strip to minimize cross movement of soil,
fertilizers, and pesticides. Each of the three cropping
systems was replicated eight times.

The conventional system based on synthetic fertilizer and
herbicide use, represented a typical cash-grain 5-year crop
rotation (corn, corn, soybeans, corn, soybeans) that
reflects commercial conventional operations in the region
and throughout the Midwest. According to USDA 2003 data,
there are more than 40 million ha in this production system
in North America. Crop residues were left on the surface of
the land to conserve soil and water; but no cover crops were
used during the non-growing season.

The organic animal-based cropping represented a typical
livestock operation in which grain crops were grown for
animal feed, not cash sale. This rotation was more complex:
corn, soybeans, corn silage, wheat, and red clover-alfalfa
hay, as well as a rye cover crop before corn silage and
soybeans. Aged cattle manure served as the nitrogen source
and applied at 5.6 tonnes per ha (dry), 2 years out of every
5 immediately before ploughing the soil for corn. Additional
nitrogen was supplied by the plough-down of legume-hay
crops. The total nitrogen applied per ha was about 40
kilograms per year or 198 kg per ha for any given year with
a corn crop. Weed control relied on mechanical cultivation,
weed-suppressing crop rotations, and relay cropping, in
which one crop acted as living 

Re: [Biofuel] New question on oil seed crops and ley farming

2005-12-02 Thread Ken Dunn
On 11/30/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Greetings Ken

 That was a real pleasure to read, thankyou.

You're quite welcome.

 Your food shed, that's great! Footprints and food sheds.

I wish I had coined the term but, my best buddy uses the phrase
regularly and I'm pretty sure that he stole it from one or another
writer.

A few months back I stumbled across the article below in the archives.
 Looks like Doug Woodward first posted it.  I found it to be very
interesting and figure that it might be a good time for it to get
another look.  Based solely on this article I really don't see
anything that precludes animal free organic farming from being
sustainable.  It appears to point to both organic farming with and
without animals as being sustainable.  In my opinion, it clearly shows
advantages of organic farming both with or without animals.  But you
all can be the judge of that.

The Institute of Science in Society: Science Society
Sustainability
http://www.i-sis.org.uk

General Enquiries  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Website/Mailing List  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
ISIS Director  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

This article can be found on the I-SIS website at
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/OBCA.php



ISIS Press Release 12/09/05

Organic Agriculture Enters Mainstream
**

Organic Yields on Par with Conventional and Ahead During
Drought Years

But by far the greatest gains are due to savings on damages
to public health and the environment estimated at more than
US$59 billion a year Dr. Mae-Wan Ho puts the nail on the
coffin on industrial agriculture

A fully referenced version of this article is posted on ISIS
members' website http://www.i-sis.org.uk/full/OBCAFull.php.
Details here http://www.i-sis.org.uk/membership.php

Myths die hard

Scientists who should know better - if only they had kept up
with the literature - continue to tell the world that
organic agriculture invariably means lower yields,
especially compared to industrial high input agriculture,
even when this has long been proven false (see for example,
Organic agriculture fights back SiS 16 [1];
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/isisnews/sis16.php
Organic production works, SiS 25 [2]).
http://www.i-sis.org.uk/isisnews/sis25.php




Researchers led by David Pimenthal, ecologist and
agricultural scientist at Cornell University, New York, have
now reviewed data from long-term field investigations and
confirmed that organic yields are no different from
conventional under normal growing conditions, but that they
are far ahead during drought years [3]. The reasons are well
known: organic soils have greater capacity to retain water
as well as nutrients such as nitrogen.

Organic soils are also more efficient carbon sinks, and
organic management saves on fossil fuel, both of which are
important for mitigating global warming.

But by far the greatest gains are in savings on externalised
costs associated with conventional industrial farming, which
are estimated to exceed 25 percent of the total market value
of United States' agricultural output.

Long-term field trials at Rodale Institute

From 1981 through 2002, field investigations were conducted
at Rodale Institute in Kutztown, Pennsylvania on 6.1 ha.
Three different cropping systems: conventional, animal
manure and legume-based organic, and legume-based organic.
Plots (18 x 92 m) were split into three (6 x 92 m) subplots,
which are large enough for farm-scale equipment to be used
for operations and harvesting. The main plots were separated
with a 1.5 m grass strip to minimize cross movement of soil,
fertilizers, and pesticides. Each of the three cropping
systems was replicated eight times.

The conventional system based on synthetic fertilizer and
herbicide use, represented a typical cash-grain 5-year crop
rotation (corn, corn, soybeans, corn, soybeans) that
reflects commercial conventional operations in the region
and throughout the Midwest. According to USDA 2003 data,
there are more than 40 million ha in this production system
in North America. Crop residues were left on the surface of
the land to conserve soil and water; but no cover crops were
used during the non-growing season.

The organic animal-based cropping represented a typical
livestock operation in which grain crops were grown for
animal feed, not cash sale. This rotation was more complex:
corn, soybeans, corn silage, wheat, and red clover-alfalfa
hay, as well as a rye cover crop before corn silage and
soybeans. Aged cattle manure served as the nitrogen source
and applied at 5.6 tonnes per ha (dry), 2 years out of every
5 immediately before ploughing the soil for corn. Additional
nitrogen was supplied by the plough-down of legume-hay
crops. The total nitrogen applied per ha was about 40
kilograms per year or 198 kg per ha for any given year with
a corn crop. Weed control relied on mechanical cultivation,
weed-suppressing crop rotations, and relay cropping, in
which one crop acted as living 

Re: [Biofuel] New question on oil seed crops and ley farming

2005-11-28 Thread Ken Dunn
On 11/28/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Not all vegetarians avoid meat because of animal rights issues.

 Why do they avoid it then?

 Best

 Keith

Are you itchin' for a fight? ;^)  Well, I trust that based on our long
discussion a few months ago, that you know why I avoided meat for so
many years.  But, I'll bite anyway...there are those that feel that
the land used to grow feed for livestock could be better used to grow
feed for humans.  There are also those that believe that there is an
excessive burden placed on the environment by the poor farming
practices followed by the large corporate farms that provide most of
the animal-based food products in some portions of the world.

Keith, before this turns into a heated debate, lets both agree that we
both understand that properly grazing animals helps to amend soil
without harming watersheds.  Which really does answer both of the
reasons mentioned above for avoiding meat.

I had avoided meats and dairies for many, many years because of
environmental damage done be agro-business.  Prior to the Pimentel is
at it again thread back in July, I followed an almost vegan diet.  In
the course of that discussion and over the next 6 weeks or so, I did
some serious searching and found many local farmers that are raising
organic, grassfed meats and organic pastured poultry.  My wife and I
had switched to these local farms over the grocery store for the meats
that our kids wished to eat.  After some additional food-mile
considerations, I have begun eating locally grown, organic, grassfed
meats and dairy to augment the locally grown, organic vegetables that
I was always able to find seasonally.  With the exception of rice and
the occasional exotic treat, we have reduced our food shed to a six
mile radius.  Once I find a source of local barley, we'll kick the
rice habit also.  But, not everyone is so lucky as I am to have these
resources available.  If I didn't have these farms close by, I would
be happy to return to a diet of based solely on locally grown plant
foods.

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Re: [Biofuel] New question on oil seed crops and ley farming

2005-11-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 11/27/05, dermot [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 This is a common argument put forward against vegetarianism. This
 argument says that if it is shown sometime in the future that plants
 feel pain then vegetarians will have to give up eating plants.

Not all vegetarians avoid meat because of animal rights issues.

Take care,
Ken

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[Biofuel] Oil Mixing Valve

2005-11-02 Thread Ken Dunn

I'm trying to find a mixing valve to run inline between to storage
tanks: one for petro heating oil and one for bioheating oil.  The
purpose would be to allow for a controlled setting that I can test
burning bioheating oil without committing my primary storage tank to
the test.  I could also run ball valves inline to completely stop the
flow of one or the other.  I was thinking that a water mixing valve
might work but, aren't those actuated by the temps of the input water?
 I'm not sure that the flow rate would be sufficient either.  I'm sure
there has to be something available but, I just must not know the
right words to search on.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Oil Mixing Valve

2005-11-02 Thread Ken Dunn

Buck said:
 thisss buck,, if u addd a T betweenn your exicssting valv and the
 burner, u can then add your bio tank with itss vlavle in the serviceee, use
 either tnank themn, or shut them both off, or addd T and vavlee and union,,
 then bio tank with its dedidcated vavlve, then u can remove the bio tank ro
 chancge it without stioping the use of regualrr heating jfuell,,, routine is
 this,,, the T,, then valve, then union,, thenvalve,, then biotank,,, all
 this added to the line after uur alreaddy exixting vavlvve between valve and
 burner buck,

That's easy enough.  I always look to the overly complicated answer
first.  I WOULD like to be able to try to vary the ratio of bio/petro
oil.  I suppose your solution offers that possibility if I vary how
far I open each of the valves.  One thing that I just now realized is
that I'd need to use one-way valves to prevent one tank filling the
other to stabilize the levels.  Which also leaves me realizing that
the tank with the higher level will naturally produce more pressure
(just something that I have to regulate).

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] If this isn't aggression...

2005-10-31 Thread Ken Dunn

On 10/31/05, Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Now if you and all
 the others like you (and I know there must be a lot of them) could just get
 together and grab the mic and shout it to the rest who are basically
 sleeping something might really happen.

If only it were that easy, Joe.  There are lots of us out there
willing to shout it out but, those sleeping have their earplugs in
and the sleep shades on.

Even after this latest episode with Libby, Rove and Cheney, the
sleepers still aren't willing to wake up.  They just wish to compare
this situation to a former president's (name purposely omitted)
missteps.

I'm not saying that we shouldn't keep trying but, I wouldn't want
others to expect that all that is required it to start discussing the
issues and things will change.  Many people become discouraged when
they realize the extent of the blind faith.  This is especially true
when surrounded by sheeple with little reinforcement.  It really is a
long uphill battle.  Perseverance is essential.  I wish that this
wasn't such a bleak message.  I try to keep an upbeat outlook.

Take care,
Ken
Doesn't it sound like I might be a bit frustrated?

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-29 Thread Ken Dunn

Hmm,  I couldn't find that item earlier.  I suppose that a router
speed control is a different animal than a router speed controller.
 What a difference two letters make!  Depending how much trouble I
have making and balancing an impeller that performs the proper mixing,
 I may just track one of these down.

Take care,


On 10/28/05, Derick Giorchino [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have used mine with a 1/2 drill, clear water pump and the winch motor
 that I have attached a hydraulic pump for oil transfer with no signs of
 overheating. Harbor freight  item # 43060 ovga router speed control $24.99

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Dunn
 Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 6:28 PM
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

 On 10/26/05, Derick Giorchino [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  There is a router speed controller in harbor freight when it on sale that
 is
  most of the time it is inexpensive and works quite well

 It doesn't look like Harbor Freight is offer that item right now.  I
 see that some other sites are offering something called a router speed
 controller.  No issue with the motor overheating using the speed
 controller?

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Re: [Biofuel] diesennn engine to a gasolians car,

2005-10-29 Thread Ken Dunn

Hi Buck,

Out of curiosity, where are you from?  What are your experiences with
automobiles?

Take care,
Ken

On 10/29/05, Buck Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 sorrry i dledeted the messagee beafore i realized i wanted to post sorry,,,
 for the personn wanting toput a dieslel enginee in a galsoline auto,, u must
 clean the gasoline tank to a farethee well and have it sealedd inside with
 diesel ressistant sealant the gas gas tank are zinc plated
 galvanized,, the ideisel and tiny amaounts of water make zinc saltsss whichh
 is carrieadn into the fuel injectaion system and will destraoyu it,buck

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Re: [Biofuel] Also starting out

2005-10-29 Thread Ken Dunn

On 10/29/05, Ken Provost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Many US citizens would not think twice about skipping the permit,
 if they had some reason to believe they wouldn't  get caught.

I have to say that here as of late, you are correct about
that...unfortunately.  Overall, it does us no benefit, though. 
Firstly, we promote ourselves to be THE example and if we mean it, we
should - no reason to hide our greatness.  Second, if getting the
proper permits to be upstanding citizens of the Earth is that much
trouble, we should stand up for the right things.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] diesennn engine to a gasolians car,

2005-10-29 Thread Ken Dunn

Hey Buck,

I'm very sorry to hear about your stroke.  It sounds like you must
have been pretty active.  Don't give up though.  That's a lot of
experience that you have behind you.  I must say that frankly, I don't
know you but I'm proud of your perseverance still the same.  How do
you hold up physically?

I'm 35. not that it matters.  I guess that it is nice to be able to
relate, though.  My older brother had a Willys (1947, I LOVED that
Jeep) that our older cousin had put a 283 Chevy small block into. 
That thing wouldn't do more the 65mph but, it would climb a tree. 
Man, it was fun.  We used to go everwhere in that thing.  Sometimes, I
had to lean out and help out those old vacuum assist wipers.  No heat,
it sucked but, we just loved it.  Freedom will definitely have an
affect on you.

What part of California are you in?  I have to admint that I really
didn't have ANY desire to go to California until I went.  I want to go
back now...but, I can't tell anyone because I made such a big stink
for so long.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] diesennn engine to a gasolians car,

2005-10-29 Thread Ken Dunn

On 10/29/05, Gary Moro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Just like Ken, I don't know you either Buck.  However reading your message has
 put a big smile on my face with admiration for your life full of experience 
 and
 your determination to push on regardless.  Thanks for putting the spark back 
 in
 my day.  More power to you mate - greets from down under the equator.  :-)
 Regz,
 Gary

I had intended for the discussion to be private.  I'm sorry Buck.  On
the upside though, at least you were an inspiration to more than just
myself.

Take care,

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[Biofuel] Coalescing Filter for de-watering

2005-10-28 Thread Ken Dunn

Has anyone tried using a coalescing filter to de-water feedstock?  A
local WVO user that I stumbled across is using one to de-water his
oil.  I've seen claims of coalescing filters removing water down to
10ppm.  That could potentially be a significant energy savings.  From
the operational diagrams that I've seen, I can see no reason why I
couldn't by a replacement element and build a very simple canister
around it.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-27 Thread Ken Dunn

On 10/26/05, Derick Giorchino [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 There is a router speed controller in harbor freight when it on sale that is
 most of the time it is inexpensive and works quite well

It doesn't look like Harbor Freight is offer that item right now.  I
see that some other sites are offering something called a router speed
controller.  No issue with the motor overheating using the speed
controller?

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-27 Thread Ken Dunn

Keith said:
 Frankly, Ken, I'm not that interested in whether it could or not.
 Improvise, sure, go ahead, best of good luck and all, but motors are
 common enough aren't they? Why not just use a motor?

Well,  while motors are common enough buying the motor off the shelf
instead of the pump will cost me atleast twice as much.

On the other
 hand if you get it to work that's great. Whatever, I can't see why
 you think I might want to bet on it. You asked if it's TEFC, I told
 you it is and pointed you to some information on its pumping limits,
 and so?

Absolutely!  I don't want to bet on it.  That's why I'm asking
questions.  I'm trying to raise a family and do the right things.  $50
is not much on the grand scale but $50 here or there is all together
different.  And, as I've mentioned in the past, everything that I'm
doing, I want to be able help others with.  That pump at Harbor
Freight is something that seems readily available at an affordable
price.  The TEFC motor (again, off the shelf) is not quite as
affordable.  I'm here to tell you, though, if I can save myself, a
friend or someone else who may be following the thread 50 bucks, I'm
gonna do it.  In as globally friendly manner as possible, of course.

I'll more than likely buy the motor that I found but, test the
improvised motor taken from the pump, when I can afford it, later.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-27 Thread Ken Dunn

 Keith said:

 I think free motors should be common enough too, lots of things you
 can salvage a motor from, some might be TEFC. What gets junked that
 uses TEFC motors but it's not usually the motor failing that gets it
 junked?

I've been considering the exact same question.  I haven't come up with
the answer yet though.  Let me know if you think of something, I'll do
the same.

Take care,
Ken

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[Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn

I was looking back through to archives tonight to see if I could maybe
stumble across a source for cheap TEFC motors and I found one of the
many references to the clear water pumps available through Harbor
Freight and Northern Tool and such.  Upon checking out Harbor Freight,
I noticed that they are selling a 1 inch clear water pump for
$29.99USD.  Here is the link: 
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1479 
Looking at the image provided, I might assume that the motor matched
up to the pump is a TEFC motor.  I wonder if someone could provide
some assistance.  Is it in fact a TEFC motor?  What sort of HP are we
talking about?  Could I disassemble the pump and use the motor to
drive my planned stir biodiesel process?

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn

1/4 horse should be fine.  I wonder if they happen to be capacitor
start motors.  I'm not certain that cap start is a necessity but, it
couldn't hurt.  I believe that one hell of a vortex is just what the
doctor ordered...maybe I misunderstand though.

Thanks for your comments,

On 10/26/05, Derick Giorchino [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have had my pump apart, brass or bronze impeller the motor seems to be
 sealed and has an external cooling fan. I think it is a 1/4 hp motor.
 As for using it to spin a mixer I think it maybe a lot to ask inrush could
 do some harm until the oil gets going and the r.p.m. would give you one hell
 of a vortex.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Dunn
 Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 8:42 PM
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Subject: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

 I was looking back through to archives tonight to see if I could maybe
 stumble across a source for cheap TEFC motors and I found one of the
 many references to the clear water pumps available through Harbor
 Freight and Northern Tool and such.  Upon checking out Harbor Freight,
 I noticed that they are selling a 1 inch clear water pump for
 $29.99USD.  Here is the link:
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1479
 Looking at the image provided, I might assume that the motor matched
 up to the pump is a TEFC motor.  I wonder if someone could provide
 some assistance.  Is it in fact a TEFC motor?  What sort of HP are we
 talking about?  Could I disassemble the pump and use the motor to
 drive my planned stir biodiesel process?

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn

Kurt,

Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled - TEFC.  If you follow link on my original
post, the pump displayed has a motor attached to looks generally like
a TEFC motor.  I don't know that it is though.  The nice thing about a
TEFC motor is that the windings of the motor are enclosed.  That helps
to REDUCE the possibility of problems due to sparks.  Considerig that
I'm building my processor in the garage (which is under part of my
house), I want to take every realistic precaution.  Furthermore, we do
our homebrew community harm by not being responsible.

Take care,



On 10/25/05, Kurt Nolte [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'm going to just admit right now that I have no clue what a TEFC motor is,
 but... I do have an assortment of various old tool and appliance motors here
 at the house that I could probably come up with a way to part with. Would
 one of those work?

  -Kurt


 On 10/25/05, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  I was looking back through to archives tonight to see if I could maybe
  stumble across a source for cheap TEFC motors and I found one of the
  many references to the clear water pumps available through Harbor
  Freight and Northern Tool and such.  Upon checking out Harbor Freight,
  I noticed that they are selling a 1 inch clear water pump for
  $29.99USD.  Here is the link:
 
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1479
  Looking at the image provided, I might assume that the motor matched
  up to the pump is a TEFC motor.  I wonder if someone could provide
  some assistance.  Is it in fact a TEFC motor?  What sort of HP are we
  talking about?  Could I disassemble the pump and use the motor to
  drive my planned stir biodiesel process?
 
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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn

I had a moment of clarity and called a local electric motor repair
shop.  It would seem that they might have something that someone
decided not to pay to bill for.  It would also seem that they might be
willing to move it cheap to recoup expenses.  Lo and behold, they have
a 1/2 hp TEFC motor with a weak low speed (1200 +- RPM) but a strong
high speed (1720+- RPM).  The price is good, the best I've found.  Is
this thing going to be total overkill for a 55 gallon stir processor,
though?

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking for a cheap TEFC motor

2005-10-26 Thread Ken Dunn

On 10/26/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled - TEFC.  If you follow link on my original
 post, the pump displayed has a motor attached to looks generally like
 a TEFC motor.  I don't know that it is though.

 Yes it is. More info here:

 http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor10.html#pumpcap
 Journey to Forever 90-litre processor

Keith,

Care to wager on whether the pump motor could be converted for use in
my stir process?

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Fwd: Vegetable oil for machining coolant

2005-10-20 Thread Ken Dunn
Forget about the libricant, I want to know how to build one!  I can
only think of a few simple projects for this thing off-hand but, I
could definitely come up with a few more.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] TEFC Electric Motor Sizing

2005-10-16 Thread Ken Dunn
I should have added, they are capacitor start motors.

On 10/16/05, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've done some research since yesterday,  it appears that there aren't
 many TEFC motors below 1/4 hp - not affordable ones anyway.  I found a
 1/4 hp Grizzly TEFC motors on Amazon.com and you can also order them
 direct through Grizzly.com.  Its $65 new through both.  Seems like
 Grizzly designs or sources them for woodworking applications but, far
 as I can tell TEFC is TEFC.

 Take care,
 Ken

 On 10/15/05, francisco j burgos [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Dear Mr. Dunn:
  certainly you are not the only one that can make good use of such tables or
  calculations.
  Hope some body can share info...
  Yours truly,
  Mr. F.J. Burgos
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:21 PM
  Subject: [Biofuel] TEFC Electric Motor Sizing
 
 
   Hi all,
  
   Still gathering my parts for my processor.  I found a 1 inch clear
   water pump that I'm going to use only for transferring the oil.  I
   don't know if anyone has a Habitat for Humanity store near them but,
   they always have a bunch of motors and pumps at the one near me.
  
   Unfortunately, I can't find any used TEFC motors.  I've resigned to
   buying a new TEFC motor for my stir processor.  I'm going to be using
   a 55 gallon drum as my reactor.  Looking at some of Todd Swearingen's
   diagrams and others, I think I should be able to get away with a 1/4
   HP motor.  A 1/3 HP motor is available locally but, I don't want to
   waste any energy or money.  Anyone have any guidelines on motor sizes
   based on processing capacity?
  
   Take care,
   Ken
  
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Re: [Biofuel] TEFC Electric Motor Sizing

2005-10-16 Thread Ken Dunn
I've done some research since yesterday,  it appears that there aren't
many TEFC motors below 1/4 hp - not affordable ones anyway.  I found a
1/4 hp Grizzly TEFC motors on Amazon.com and you can also order them
direct through Grizzly.com.  Its $65 new through both.  Seems like
Grizzly designs or sources them for woodworking applications but, far
as I can tell TEFC is TEFC.

Take care,
Ken

On 10/15/05, francisco j burgos [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Dear Mr. Dunn:
 certainly you are not the only one that can make good use of such tables or
 calculations.
 Hope some body can share info...
 Yours truly,
 Mr. F.J. Burgos

 - Original Message -
 From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:21 PM
 Subject: [Biofuel] TEFC Electric Motor Sizing


  Hi all,
 
  Still gathering my parts for my processor.  I found a 1 inch clear
  water pump that I'm going to use only for transferring the oil.  I
  don't know if anyone has a Habitat for Humanity store near them but,
  they always have a bunch of motors and pumps at the one near me.
 
  Unfortunately, I can't find any used TEFC motors.  I've resigned to
  buying a new TEFC motor for my stir processor.  I'm going to be using
  a 55 gallon drum as my reactor.  Looking at some of Todd Swearingen's
  diagrams and others, I think I should be able to get away with a 1/4
  HP motor.  A 1/3 HP motor is available locally but, I don't want to
  waste any energy or money.  Anyone have any guidelines on motor sizes
  based on processing capacity?
 
  Take care,
  Ken
 
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[Biofuel] Suggestions for a homemade lid

2005-10-16 Thread Ken Dunn
So, I have this stainless steel container that's probably in the 10-15
gallon range.  Seems a shame to not make some use of it except that I
didn't get a lid with it and my pal doesn't it either.  The inner
diameter is 15 inches. The outer diameter is 15 9/16 and the height is
25 1/2 inches.  I was planning to use it for a stock methoxide
solution but, if I can't come up with a lid I'll have to find a less
hazardous use for it.  Maybe there is a better use for it anyway...I'd
still like a lid.  Anyone have any ideas how to create a simple lid
without too much wasted energy?

Take care,
Ken

PS:  I really busted my hump today in the gardens.  We found 5 hostas
(one of which was HUGE) on our local FreeCycle.  Lots of work digging
those holes.  I also moved a bunch of other perennials and rearranged
the vegetable garden to build my mini hoop house for late tomatoes and
early spring crops.  I am so tired I could fall asleep typing.  There
is almost nothing more rewarding, though!  I can't wait for the extra
charge that I'll have tomorrow.

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Re: [Biofuel] Suggestions for a homemade lid

2005-10-16 Thread Ken Dunn
No,  its definitely Stainless.  I have worked for years with both.  I
tight lid is what I'm lookng for.  I can certainly make a air tight
lid.  I just don't want to over do it.

Take care,
Ken

On 10/16/05, JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi Ken,
 No doubt you are sure it is SS and not aluminum.  If your not sure you
 will want to be sure (aluminum is a no no). I would use it for your
 reactor and fashion a nice lid from plastic. Like Manickh said the
 alcoholic kind needs to be more than a lid  - a tight lid.

 Best of luck
 Jim

 Manick Harris wrote:

  Hi Ken,
  Since your solution is probably alcoholic,and you want to minimise
  evaporationn may I suggest a sturdy PE container with fitting lid. Tha
  SS could be put to another use. My 2c worth.
  Manickh
 
  */Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:
 
  So, I have this stainless steel container that's probably in the 10-15
  gallon range. Seems a shame to not make some use of it except that I
  didn't get a lid with it and my pal doesn't it either. The inner
  diameter is 15 inches. The outer diameter is 15 9/16 and the height is
  25 1/2 inches. I was planning to use it for a stock methoxide
  solution but, if I can't come up with a lid I'll have to find a less
  hazardous use for it. Maybe there is a better use for it anyway...I'd
  still like a lid. Anyone have any ideas how to create a simple lid
  without too much wasted energy?
 
  Take care,
  Ken
 
  PS: I really busted my hump today in the gardens. We found 5 hostas
  (one of which was HUGE) on our local FreeCycle. Lots of work digging
  those holes. I also moved a bunch of other perennials and rearranged
  the vegetable garden to build my mini hoop house for late tomatoes and
  early spring crops. I am so tired I could fall asleep typing. There
  is almost nothing more rewarding, though! I can't wait for the extra
  charge that I'll have tomorrow.
 
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Re: [Biofuel] Suggestions for a homemade lid

2005-10-16 Thread Ken Dunn
Should have said An air tight lid...:

On 10/17/05, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 No,  its definitely Stainless.  I have worked for years with both.  I
 tight lid is what I'm lookng for.  I can certainly make a air tight
 lid.  I just don't want to over do it.

 Take care,
 Ken

 On 10/16/05, JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Hi Ken,
  No doubt you are sure it is SS and not aluminum.  If your not sure you
  will want to be sure (aluminum is a no no). I would use it for your
  reactor and fashion a nice lid from plastic. Like Manickh said the
  alcoholic kind needs to be more than a lid  - a tight lid.
 
  Best of luck
  Jim
 
  Manick Harris wrote:
 
   Hi Ken,
   Since your solution is probably alcoholic,and you want to minimise
   evaporationn may I suggest a sturdy PE container with fitting lid. Tha
   SS could be put to another use. My 2c worth.
   Manickh
  
   */Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:
  
   So, I have this stainless steel container that's probably in the 10-15
   gallon range. Seems a shame to not make some use of it except that I
   didn't get a lid with it and my pal doesn't it either. The inner
   diameter is 15 inches. The outer diameter is 15 9/16 and the height is
   25 1/2 inches. I was planning to use it for a stock methoxide
   solution but, if I can't come up with a lid I'll have to find a less
   hazardous use for it. Maybe there is a better use for it anyway...I'd
   still like a lid. Anyone have any ideas how to create a simple lid
   without too much wasted energy?
  
   Take care,
   Ken
  
   PS: I really busted my hump today in the gardens. We found 5 hostas
   (one of which was HUGE) on our local FreeCycle. Lots of work digging
   those holes. I also moved a bunch of other perennials and rearranged
   the vegetable garden to build my mini hoop house for late tomatoes and
   early spring crops. I am so tired I could fall asleep typing. There
   is almost nothing more rewarding, though! I can't wait for the extra
   charge that I'll have tomorrow.
  
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[Biofuel] TEFC Electric Motor Sizing

2005-10-15 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

Still gathering my parts for my processor.  I found a 1 inch clear
water pump that I'm going to use only for transferring the oil.  I
don't know if anyone has a Habitat for Humanity store near them but,
they always have a bunch of motors and pumps at the one near me.

Unfortunately, I can't find any used TEFC motors.  I've resigned to
buying a new TEFC motor for my stir processor.  I'm going to be using
a 55 gallon drum as my reactor.  Looking at some of Todd Swearingen's
diagrams and others, I think I should be able to get away with a 1/4
HP motor.  A 1/3 HP motor is available locally but, I don't want to
waste any energy or money.  Anyone have any guidelines on motor sizes
based on processing capacity?

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Imagine if we could invent grid tied PV systems

2005-10-14 Thread Ken Dunn
On 10/13/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It is not his fault, he is a mirror of the people who voted
 for him. The law of smallest (read dumbest) common
 denominator. This make George a genius among the
 people who voted for him, more than half of the US
 population. LOL

Not to pick nits over this, Hakan but, just over half of the eligible
U.S. population *voted*.  Of them 51 or 52% voted for Bush.  Far short
of the mandate that the Bushites touted but, who's counting?

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Re: [Biofuel] Grey water heat recovery and low tech Solar collectors????

2005-10-11 Thread Ken Dunn
Jim,

did you search the archives?  search for solar hot water heater 
We've been discussing this a fair amount lately, several people posted
great recommendations and reference website urls.

Take care,
Ken

On 10/11/05, JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello Tom,
 We are in Eastern Montana, Cold but sunny winters.  Would antifreeze
 work as the fluid?

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Re: [Biofuel] 55 Gallon Drum Seal

2005-10-09 Thread Ken Dunn
Sound good, I'll be interested to hear how it works out.

On 10/8/05, des [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Similar problem here, though I've processed a couple of batches without
 the seal.  The barrels I got had foodstuffs in them, and the seal was a
 sort of foam that doesn't hold up in methanol fumes.  I'm going to try
 making a continuous rope of the correct circumference (continuous rope =
 http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rope.htm )and coating it with a silicon
 rubber.  Then lay it into the groove, and when the silicone is nearly
 solid, set the lid onto the barrel to fit the seal.  If it works, I'll
 let you know.  :)

 doug swanson



 Ken Dunn wrote:
  Hi all,
 
  I found a source for lots of 55 gallon drums at a low rate however, he
  doesn't have the seals.  Are these available?  Anybody know where I
  could find them.  I'm suppose I could make a seal if necessary but,
  I'd much prefer a real one.  I'm not having a lot of luck finding
  drums with seals.
 
  Thanks,
  Take care,
  Ken
 
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Re: [Biofuel] 55 Gallon Drum Seal

2005-10-09 Thread Ken Dunn
Hey Keith,

I had been looking at the page that you mentioned as an option.  I was
thinking that I'd prefer to have an actual seal but, I suppose I'll
need to replace it eventually anyway...maybe I'll just use your
suggestion and stop being so darned persnickety.  If I go that route,
I have a nearly unlimited source of drums!

Take care,
Ken

On 10/9/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There are some details here on putting a silicon seal on a lid without a seal.

 http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor10.html
 Journey to Forever 90-litre processor

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[Biofuel] 55 Gallon Drum Seal

2005-10-08 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

I found a source for lots of 55 gallon drums at a low rate however, he
doesn't have the seals.  Are these available?  Anybody know where I
could find them.  I'm suppose I could make a seal if necessary but,
I'd much prefer a real one.  I'm not having a lot of luck finding
drums with seals.

Thanks,
Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] atkins

2005-10-06 Thread Ken Dunn
On 10/6/05, Chris lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 No problem, there was a scientific study done on the Atkins diet in the UK
 early this year, weight, blood pressure and cholesterol tested every day and
 food consumption monitored. It seems people on that diet just do not eat as
 many calories as people eating carbs. They even had the test subjects locked
 in an air chamber monitoring the amount of waste gas being produced to work
 out energy lost in gas production and oily stools. But they did not expect
 the lower cholesterol levels and could not explain how the dropped. They
 thought that fresh cooked meat was better for you than processed and the oil
 used in cooking should only be used once and then dumped.  Chris.


Sounds like this particular study was comparing apples to oranges but,
I might be reading something into it.  However, it does certainly
sounds by your description that the study compared an Atkins diet of
fresh meats to an omniverous diet of processed foods.  No doubt, a
diet of refined carbohydrates is not a good diet.  However, locally
grown, organic whole grains are invaluable in many peoples' diets.

Let's face it, the best diet is exercise.  You can eat anything you
want in moderation but, it won't help eating one thing or another
unless you move your body.

A few interesting things:

There are fewer calories in 1 gram of carbohydrates than either
proteins or fats.  Fats contain the highest calory count per gram. 
Eat too much fat and it will be stored as fat for reserve.  Protein is
great but, if you eat too much, it will also be converted to fat and
reserved.  Of course, carbohydrates can also be stored as fat but,
considering that they are the first used energy source, the chances of
carbs being stored as fat are less.  That is, providing that you eat
only as much as your body can use or less.

Carbohydrates are the first category that your body uses.  Next is
protein.  Then fat.  Eat more carbs and what is left for energy? 
Internal stores of fat.

Whatever you eat, buying local, locally grown and organic will benefit
everyone!  And if you walk or ride your bike to pick it up, even
better yet.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] atkins

2005-10-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Arden,

Have you incorporated exercise into your lifestyle?  I am on a very
high carb diet for several reasons.  However, I don't eat ANY refined
carbs (white flour or white sugar).  I also feel wonderful but, I
don't think that it has anything to do with my diet.  But, if I miss
exercise for a couple of days, I can definitely feel the difference. 
I can also tell how much better I feel the day after vigorous
exercise.  Feeling energetic is more about metabolism than food inputs
unless you aren't eating enough and your metabolism is jump-started by
exercise.

In response to your comparison of atkins versus low-fat diets and
fullness.  There have been many, many studies that indicate that
high-fat foods generally have a much lower fullness-factor or
satiating affect compared to whole grains/beans.  Unless the
low-fatters are eating poor quality food such as white bread and
iceburg lettuce, there is no reason for them to be walking around
hungry.  I am very rarely hungry, unless I haven't eaten in a
reasonable time.  Then again, I tend to eat my fair share of granola
and oatmeal both of which are VERY filling.  check out your favorite
foods at www.nutritiondata.com.  It gives you everything you might
want to know about a particular food - some things that you may have
never thought to ask.



On 10/6/05, Arden B. Norder [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 My good bio-friends,

 I feel I must speak out in defence of Dr. Atkins.

 It so obvious, by the tone of the comments here, that very, very few have
 actually read his book. I have seen a couple of TV probrams where the Atkins
 diet is put under fire. What they have failed to do in all cases isexplain 
 that
 there are 4 phases to the Atkins way of life.

 My wife and I have adopted the Atkins way of life and we have lost 12 and 13
 kilos respectively. I have to say - I have never felt so good. We have been 
 busy
 with our new life style for 3 months now and we are almost to our goal weights
 and are currently in phase 2. I hvae only 1 kilo to go and then on to phase 3.
 My colestorol from 9 down to 7.5. Yes that was high and it can be even lower 
 but
 apparently I have been blessed with the heart and collestorol troubles from my
 mother and her father and his father. thus, it's genetic. I am under my 
 doctors
 servaillence. I was not overweight. I am 2 metres, medium build and weighed 94
 kgs. I am still 2 metres and weigh now 81 kgs. I have an abundance of energy 
 and
 honestly speeking - have never felt better.

 Please, educate yourself before you use your key-board and knock a good thing.

 Have any of you ever considered what a low-fat diet does to your system?? Yet 
 we
 accept that as being OK. Hmmm.

 There was here mention of no scientific proof and/or no references - read the
 book and you wil see the pages and pages and pages of references. His

 I, unlike the low-fatters, do not walk around with a hungry feeling all day
 long, and in a body that tries to store every extra calorie because it thinks 
 it
 it is starving.

 READ THE BOOK!!! Let's open our minds.

 Greetings from the Netherlands

 Arden


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Re: [Biofuel] Still looking

2005-10-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Looking at the archives, it appears that the RC airplane folks use
methanol as well.  Perhaps you can find some buffs in your area and
talk to them also.

Take care,
Ken

On 10/6/05, Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Look up automobile in Yellow Pages, and find the guys that sell performance
 parts, race car parts, etc.  After a few calls, someone will tell you where
 you can find it.  I found a supplier in Cayce SC not 1 mile from my job
 called Performance Parts.  The race car community is rather tight and they
 know what one another has or can get.

 Chris K
 Cayce, SC



 - Original Message -
 From: Bobby Clark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 3:06 PM
 Subject: [Biofuel] Still looking


  In upstate South Carolina near Clemson, still looking for a methanol
  supplier for aroun $5/gallon or less. Anyone know of one?
 
  Thanks,
  Bobby Clark
 
 
 
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[Biofuel] Quantifying the Price of Packaging/Sending the Message

2005-10-06 Thread Ken Dunn
When talking to friends, family and others regarding the
Earth-friendly practices that we can all include in our lifestyles, I
always stumble over quantifying the true price of packaging for
consumer goods.  Its easy enough to calculate the transportation costs
of an avacodo from California to Lancaster County, PA.  Its also
fairly straight forward to relay the burden on natural resources - the
real price we pay.  Adding it all up is also easily enough
accomplished.

But, how do you really calculate the expense of packaging materials? 
How much petroleum goes into one plastic bag?  Of course, the plastic
won't break down in any of our lifetimes yet, its not easy to
determine the displacement of a resource when you don't know the
inputs.  For many (Americans anyway) I won't be here in a million
years so, who cares?.  Then again, there are always the ever
increasing landfills to point to.  NIMBY does have some power there
yet, that approach is only a scare tactic to be exploited and I have
no time for that.

What portion of a tree is consumed to create a cardboard box that is
used just long enough for the DVD player (I almost said VCR :-) ) to
make its way from the factory to the store and then the family room
only to be mummified in the local dump?  How much extra weight does
the box add to the truck?  How much extra fuel does the extra weight
consume?

For a while I questioned whether paper really WAS any better than
plastic.  For a while I used plastic based on the premise that I could
recycle the plastic.  I've now decided that paper is better than
plastic if only for the reason that the paper atleast comes from a
natural resource that is sustainable (sort of).  But, is paper better
than plastic?  What if we returned to using plastic made from soy
beans like ol' Henry's boys discovered?  Would it still be better to
use paper over plastic?

How much energy is consumed to produce all of these packaging
materials?  And how much more is consumed to dispose of them?

Rant as I may, how do we get the point across to the producers of
goods that we want lass packaging?  We can buy local all day long but,
Sony doesn't have a factory near me.  Even if they did, I'd still
probably have to take the packaging with me.

Take care all,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] solar heat exchanger

2005-10-04 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/28/05, Tom Scheel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've proposed a system that combines heat exchange and storage, thus giving
 you efficiency of design. The storage tank and the draindown tank can be the
 same tank, thus removing a maintainance/failure item (glycol - which likes
 to leak, is less efficient than water as a heat transfer medium, costs
 $8/gallon (in the US)). Plus you are saving time as it looks like you are
 hunting around and experimenting with low percentage ideas (PVC/CPVC =
 PITA).
 The proposed system does require a pump (you should be able to use two
 circulators in series - read your pump sizing charts). As to DHW through
 excessive piping - I presume you are talking about pressure drop. That is
 solved by taking your 3/4 supply and running it through three 1/2 loops in
 your heat exchanger. And you are only adding 100 to 120 feet of run, so the
 pressure drop should be manageable (even if you kept it a single 3/4 loop
 in the heat exhanger.

Tom,

After re-reading your original post and then staring at a slew more
diagrams, I have to say that I agree with you.  As hard as I might try
to avoid it, I am still overcomplicating this.

Thanks,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Kjell,

I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
enough.  But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one. 
Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
widely spread.  I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
possible.  So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
available as possible.  Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
is the issue of double walls.  I could certainly adapt this idea
accordingly.  Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken



On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger -
 more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut two equally sized
 pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate.  Make about two dimples about 2 mm
 deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work
 on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates together all around the edges with
 the sides with the raised dimples facing each other.
 Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of pipes
 where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short pipe pieces
 are welded in place.
 Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less than 0.05
 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use clamps or
 something to hold the plates together or you end up with a pressurized
 'football'!
 Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank you
 use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you avoid air
 pockets.
 The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these DIY
 units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure can maybe
 be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples have to be
 increased.
 Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small pressure can
 add up to large forces and even blow the container!

 Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also needed
 - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you don't have the
 know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it. 
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different
 head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
 very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor
 Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe
 the don't make it any more.

 -Mike

 Kjell Löfgren wrote:

  Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
  exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut
  two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about
  two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a
  ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates
  together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples
  facing each other.
  Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
  pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short
  pipe pieces are welded in place.
  Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
  than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use
  clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a
  pressurized 'football'!
  Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank
  you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you
  avoid air pockets.
  The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these
  DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure
  can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples
  have to be increased.
  Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
  pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
 
  Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also
  needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
  don't have the know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hmm...what if you centered the smaller tube and held it in place with
 spacers, wax would work, and then filled it with fine grain sand, then
 bent it?

I'm sure it would,  I think someone had already mentioned a similar
technique.  I think I'd like to stear clear of the sand in case of a
major failure.  Wax or not, I don't want to be flushing my entire
system to get rid of unwanted sand.

Keep the ideas coming,
Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
 length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
 back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
 and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
 the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.

This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Tom,

Does a drain down system simplify anything other than the heat
exchanger and eliminate the use of glycol?  Or course, you're adding
the drain down.  It almost seems like a wash (there is a pun in there
somewhere, I'm sure).  I would like to use my solar hot water for
space heating as well - either radiant heat or with a liquid to air
heat exchanger and blower.  Either way, I think I'd prefer a closed
loop so that I'm not pumping DHW through excessive piping.

Am I missing something else?

 If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are
 contemplating:
 1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a
 polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to
 break up a 3/4 or 1 flow into multiple 1/2 coils (surface area = good).
 One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the
 load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)

 2 - use a drain down open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
 use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
 rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
 solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
 not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
 and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
 usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
 drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
 if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
 storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).

 So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun,
 heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)
 DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make
 sure you don't always preheat your hydronic -sometimes the return water
 from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a
 control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system
 (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost
 always be above your groundwater temp).

 Tom
 From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater
 Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org

 Kjell,

 I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
 enough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one.
 Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
 widely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
 possible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
 available as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
 is the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this idea
 accordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
 wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.

 Thanks a bunch,
 Take care,
 Ken



 On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren wrote:
 
  Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger
 -
  more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized
  pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mm
 SNIP

 Radiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)
 Tom Scheel
 928-380-6294
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If you are willing to use a pump instead of a circulator (much higher
 power draw is the problem,  if you are off grid), and take some care
 in sloping pipes and collectors properly, it is a bit simpler.  In
 addition, you avoid the issue of acidification of glycol, common in
 large closed loop systems that chronically stagnate in the summertime.

Is there a way to balance the PH of the glycol to extend the life of
it?  I knew that there is maintenance.  I assumed I would have to
periodically flush and replace.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken,

 If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
 start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
 and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
 temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
 be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
 soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
 degenerate.

 I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
 the special ones that NASA uses.

Thanks for his piece of information, I was not of heat sensivity of
PVC.  I thought that it was much more heat resistent.

They are quite expensive,
 so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
 your good looks or intentions.

Has my mom been bragging about me again?

Thanks again,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Recently (this spring I believe) Home Power Magazine had a series of
 articles with nice diagrams of all the various solar hot water
 systems, space heating and DHW, batch heating, closed loop, and open
 loop systems.  I'd recommend searching their archives, as these were
 the easiest to understand explanations that I'd seen in a while.

Yikes,  Zeke,

I can't look at another diagram until I get some work done.  I have
been reading endlessly, I think I might have seen every article in
Home Power, Mother Earth News, SRCC, FSEC, EERE, DOE, Billy Boy Joe
Bob's Ever-Expanding-Beer-Bottle system and more.  Somethin's gotta
get built.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
 heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
 should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
 diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
 water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
 idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
 submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Yes, that's one of the ideas that I would like to test.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
 a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
 Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.

 C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
 quality.

Hakan,

The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
stage.

Thanks for you comments,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, David Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
 electrical shop rather than your home depot.

Is that safe for carrying drinking though?  If so, that's a good lead.
 I could always run my potable  water through the heat exchanger and
glycol through the PVC but, I definitely need to know what's healthy
and what's not.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
 through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
 metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
 for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
 metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
 require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,

This is the purpose.  I won't be using any plastic-like material to
exchange heat.  Sorry, if I didn't make that completely evident.

 why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
 cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
 and corresponding amounts.

I may end up using a steel drum.  I'm try to find the best option to
match whatever materials that I can find locally.  For what it's
worth, there is an issue of space efficiency also.  The steel drum
might not meet those requirements.  Having the greatest number of
options at my disposal can only benefit me and anyone that might want
to the do same for themselves.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-25 Thread Ken Dunn
Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I went to the PA Energy Fest
yesterday and talked to experienced folks there as well. I got
some ideas how to incorporate some the concepts mentioned in this
thread and also some others. I'm going to experiment on a smaller
scale and design my heat exchange accordingly.

Thanks again for the input,
Take care,
Ken
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[Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat
exchange? I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing,
inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending the two
simultaneously. I could see how the inner tubing might kink or
flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I tried to bend
too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank
commercially available that makes building a backyard heat exchange
mute anyway.? I'm going to need to come up with a storage tank
anyway. I understand the theoretical pros/cons to internal and
external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world practical
differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken
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[Biofuel] Sun Twin space heater

2005-09-23 Thread Ken Dunn
Anyone have any experience with this thing?  Does it work as
described?  My wife is interested in it.

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Re: [Biofuel] Appleseed methanol recovery

2005-09-23 Thread Ken Dunn
S,

Look up hose or hydraulic in your area. If you're in the
U.S., you'll likely find a hose house near you. The choices that
these places offer are generally great. There are atleast three
advantages: you'll probably be supporting the local economy, they have
access to the catalogs and reference material that can tell you both
what the right stuff is for the job (they normally know or can find
pressure/vacuum ratings and resistances also) , and you will probably
need them again so, you're more likely to talk to the same Schmoe
again. That will save you some time. Plus, its what they
do. 

I've worked in a couple of hydraulic shops and I always got excited to help someone that was doing something different.

Good luck,
Take care,
KenOn 9/23/05, magic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all, I have lurked on the list for many months... I am building my ownversion of an appleseed based processor. I am looking at methanolrecovery, and was wondering what I can use (flexible tubing) for the
methanol? My thought is to recover the methanol via applying a vacuum to thesystem. Lowes carries high pressure hoses (I think for pressure washers)which I believe would withstand the vacuum, but unsure if the hose
itself would react poorly with the methanol. (They don't know what thehose is made of, as they aren't provided that information.) Assistance appreciated. Thanks, S___
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[Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

I'm trying to collect materials to build a solar hot water 
heater. I have a few questions for the initiated. I have been thinking that my 
most affordable way to go would be to use abandoned sliding glass doors (double 
pane of course) for my glazing. I can't imagine that there would be any 
problems with this approach unless they were tinted. Obviously, I would avoid 
that.

Does some smart individual have a recommendation for the copper 
tubing diameter within the collector? Also, all of the designs that I see 
incorporate a single serpentine or two manifolds at either end of the collector 
connected by a series of parellel smaller diameter tubes. I wonder if I could 
create a hybrid of this design using multiple overlapping serpentines connected 
by two manifolds. This is hard for me to descibe. I envision the individual 
tubes making contact somewhere near the bends. My thoughts are:
1. This idea 
would work quite well
2. There wouldn't be enough heat produced to 
sufficiently heat the water.
3. This could be just riddled with leaks
4 
Both 2 and 3.

Does the bulk of the heat produced come from the Sun's 
radiation or convection within the collector?
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The bulk of the heat is from radiation from the sun. 
Good! I think that would make the idea of 3 or 4 serpentines in series efficient.
The best collectors are actually vaccuum tubes, to reduce convective losses.

This doesn't sound like something for the backyard project.
They also use a selective surface on the collector plates in order toreduce radiative losses as well.

My thought was to braze light gauge copper sheeting to the back of the tubes and then paint the whole shootin' match black.

I think that the biggest problem in building a collector will be
sealing for leaks, and attaching plates to the tubes with good heattransfer characteristics.

Water leaks I assume, not insulation type leaks, right?
The best ones I've seen have the platescontinuously welded (or brazed) to the tubes, which can be hard to do
on a homebrew collector.If the plates aren't well connectedthermally, they will get hot, but not transfer the heat to the tubevery well.The other option would be to put tubes close enoughtogether that they intercept all the sun and you don't need any
plates, but this is obviously more expensive for tubes.
Yes, but, if I could reduce the number of collectors, I *could
potentially* reduce my overall cost and definitely reduce the weight
that I expect my roof to bear.
Where are you located?

Pennsylvania, USA 
I have managed to collect about twelve 4'x8'collectors in the last three months, for about $800 total.This is
much cheaper than I could have manufactured them, and about 10% thecost of new ones.There are alot of systems that people are justtaking apart (often because the tank rusts out or controls go haywire,but sometimes just because they are reroofing and don't bother to
reinstall them -- very rarely to the collectors themselves actually gobad).Not very bright of the current owners to get rid of them jsutwhen gas prices are going through the roof, but it sure helps me

Yeah, If I could fall into the kind of situation you have, I'd be a happy camper.

Thanks for your response,
Take care,
Ken 

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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The best collectors are actually vaccuum tubes, to reduce convective losses.
This leads me to believe that creating a lower profile box and reducing
dead airspace would be very advantageous. Is that correct?

Thanks again,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, David Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It probably wouldn't make much difference.Windows need an inch or sobetween the panes for best R-value; less is not always better.There'sa point where more wouldn't be better either, and a wide range in between.
If there were a way to evacuate even some of the air it would help withboth convective and conductive losses through the air, but evacuatingflat surface collectors is a non-starter.If it were sealed tightly
enough, which you probably can't do in a home-build environment, aheavier gas such as argon will increase the R value as well.
Does using a sliding glass door solve this problem as best as a
backyard builder can expect? I was referring to reducing the dead
airspace behind the glazing. Is that what you meant? I
intend to thoroughy insulate and seal the box itself but, I have not
intention on evacuating it or filling it with a heavy glass. As
much as I'd like to get crazy technical with this, I'd like for it to
be practical, reliable and reproducable - cheaply.

Thanks for your comments,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Although alot of the collectors have little vents in the top to let out moisture thatmakes it's way in somehow.Otherwise you get condensation inside theglass in the mornings.

What about using silica desiccant gel to stabilize the humidity?
Seems safe enough. I seem to remember that there is a desiccant
between the panes of many multi-pane windows for the same purpose.
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
Also, does anyone know what would be considered a good
difference in outlet water temperature? For testing purposes, If
I'm using water starting at 70F, what should I strive for? I plan
to use an indirect system with non-toxic anti-freeze, so, I shouldn't
be working with temps as low as 70F anyway but... I found 2
double paned sliding glass door panels today. I can build the
boxes and experiment with the 2 side by side until I come up with the
best combination but, at what temp should I begin to see diminishing
returns? Also, could I expect anti-freeze temps to be able pushed
higher than water alone? That's of course, provided that I can
attain temperatures that high anyway.

Thanks everyone,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Check out the SRCC website to see what different collectorsgenerally come in at.
Hmmm - http://www.solar-rating.org/ - Great site!

The rest is all good too. It all makes sense after I put some thought into it.

Thanks,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, des [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A scientific approach to this would be to eliminate the variables thatcan be eliminated, and keep records of those that can't be eliminated.For example, measuring ambient temperatures and comparing those to the
temperatures in the collector will let you know to some degree what yourinsulation is doing for you.Taking internal temperatures withoutremoving the heat, (not pumping water through your tubes) will let youknow what max temp you might expect, all else being equal.(Length of
time the sun is insoling at a beneficial angle, ambient temp, insulationvalue...)Some numbers in the basic setup will then indicate howquickly you might want or need to pump your coolant through the tubes to
draw the heat from your collector.Then you might adjust your input for those low angle incident rays bymounting a reflector that will redirect reflected rays back into yourcollector.

These all sound like good recommendations.
The area of your collection surface will determine the maximum kWhcapacity of your panel. A search using your location and the term
insolation will likely return you some very useful data.
I've done this. Hopefully, it will be useful later. Right
now, it doesn't help me enough - without putting something into
practice.
Duane Johnson has a huge website dealing with, among other things, solarenergy.Great numbers of links will guide you through any aspect of
your endeavors.His site is at http://www.redrok.com/main.htm
Holy snikies! That one is going to have to wait until another
day. I will need some time to take all of that in. Looks
like some very intriguing stuff though.

Thanks much,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Hot Water Collector

2005-09-20 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/20/05, Appal Energy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
FSEC (Florida Solar Energy Center) has been around for decades. They'reinto a lot more than just solar and have a cornucopia for a library foranyone who finds themself in their area.
Excellent!

Thanks,
Take care,
Ken
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[Biofuel] Flat Panel Solar Water Heater

2005-09-19 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

I'm trying to collect materials to build a solar hot water
heater. I have a few questions for the initiated. I have
been thinking that my most affordable way to go would be to use
abandoned sliding glass doors (double pane of course) for my
glazing. I can't imagine that there would be any problems with
this approach unless they were tinted. Obviously, I would avoid
that.

Does some smart individual have a recommendation for the copper tubing
diameter within the collector? Also, all of the designs that I
see incorporate a single serpentine or two manifolds at either end of
the collector connected by a series of parellel smaller diameter
tubes. I wonder if I could create a hybrid of this design using
multiple overlapping serpentines connected by two manifolds. This
is hard for me to descibe. I envision the individual tubes making
contact somewhere near the bends. My thoughts are:
1. This idea would work quite well
2. There wouldn't be enough heat produced to sufficiently heat the water.
3. This could be just riddled with leaks
4 Both 2 and 3.

Does the bulk of the heat produced come from the Sun's radiation or convection within the collector?
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Re: [Biofuel] lite blend?

2005-09-16 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/16/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Or maybe someone has just found a new way to make money of gullible consumers.
Seems to me that this were the case, they would tell you to use
more. They make more money that way. Kinda like the
directions on the detergent box that tell you that you have to use 5
times as much as you really need.
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Re: [Biofuel] BD disinfo?

2005-09-13 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/13/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The question does tend to come up every now and then, but recently amuch higher proportion than usual are inquiring about biodiesel's
allegedly short storage life.So many people just browse around the web like gadflies, they don'tkeep much or any record of where they went or what they found there.(Hi, I stumbled on your website...) It seems to point back
somewhere, it might be worth knowing just where.Anyway, it seems none of us has stumbled on it, yet.
Keith,

JtF is an incredible resource. I am reading something or another
every couple of days from one of the many topics. Perhaps
including some storage expectations and debunking disinformation would
be of great service. I know that you're busy but, it may save you
some time in the long run.

I could have sworn that I saw some sort of guideline on JtF but, I
certainly can't find it. I've tried searching through the search
engine (biodiesel storage or biodiesel shelf file) and manually
searching through the pages that I think would likely contain the info
but, I keep coming up dry. I can find information on other websites
but, I trust JtF more.

Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] BD disinfo?

2005-09-08 Thread Ken Dunn
I can't seem to find it but, I thought that there WAS a recommendation
on JtF to store BD for no long than a given time (I won't give the time
frame that my memory serves in case I'm wrong) (the same time frame as
for storing petro diesel). No?On 9/8/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Who is putting about mis- or disinfo that biodiesel has a very shortshelf-life?We keep getting enquiries from people who seem to think so.
Does the biodiesel have a shelf life?Or:I read somewhere that biodesil has a short shelf life.And so on and on and on. Somewhere, hm.Any ideas where this BS is coming from?
BestKeith AddisonJourney to ForeverKYOTO Pref., Japanhttp://journeytoforever.org/___Biofuel mailing list
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Re: [Biofuel] Bioheating Oil

2005-09-06 Thread Ken Dunn
Based on the info on JtF, it looks almost as if bioheating oil hasn't
been tested much (probably a false assumption on my part). Anyone
here burning it? How could I tell if it will work in my furnace
without potentially gumming up the works? If appears to me that
the advantages of bioheating oil over biodiesel are fewer inputs
(cheaper) and a slightly simplified process. Is that
correct? I am in the process of building my biodiesel processor,
would there be any pitfalls of processing bioheating oil and biodiesel
in the same processor?
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Re: [Biofuel] Bioheating Oil

2005-09-06 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/6/05, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's been well-tested in what we say it's been tested in, mainly this:Journey to Forever's forced-air biofuel heater
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me9.html
This much I knew, what I'm not sure of is the number of other
burners its been tested in. We have a 250 or 275 gallon tank for
our heating oil. It could get real messy (and expensive) if I
needed drain it. I'm also not sure that I could fix my furnace
rapidly enough if I needed to. I guess the risk is reduced a bit
when mixed with petro heating oil. No?
Depends on the furnace, as with biodiesel. Try it, keep a close eyeon it, especially at first, if you start to have problems then stop.

Like I said, this concerns me a bit.
It says:There's little or no free methanol left so it should be safe if you
want to use it in the type of burner or furnace that has rubber pipesand seals, but we haven't tried that and it might be wise to changethe rubber parts for resistant material anyway.Some burners are more sensitive to viscosity than others. Biodiesel
is more viscous than petroleum heating oil, and bioheating oil ismore viscous than biodiesel, so if biodiesel doesn't work in yourfurnace then bioheating oil won't either, though in both casespre-heating the oil might work.

I caught all of this. What do you do when the furnace won't fire up though?
If appears to me that the advantages of bioheating oil overbiodiesel are fewer inputs (cheaper) and a slightly simplified
process.More than slightly, especially since you're not trying to pass anyquality tests.Is that correct?More or less. Not inconsiderable advantages, IMHO.
Not at all, I gotta make sure I'm understanding it all correctly before jumpin' in.
I am in the process of building my biodiesel processor, would therebe any pitfalls of processing bioheating oil and biodiesel in the
same processor?What pitfalls could there be? Bioheating oil uses the same processand the same chemicals.
I truly suspected no problems but, I'm not one of the many experts on this topic. Always better safe than sorry.
Best wishesKeith
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Solar Hot Water and Radiant Heat

2005-09-05 Thread Ken Dunn
I know its not much better but, I believe our insert is rated at 40% 
efficiency.  We plan to move to a more efficient catalytic wood burning 
insert as soon as we can swing the finances.  Vermont Castings claims 
78% efficiency of one of their models.

Kirk wrote:

Your insert with a fan is probably 300% more efficient than a fireplace. 
That means instead of 98% of the heating value of the fuel being lost up 
the chimney only 90% is lost.

THe only fireplace I know of that is worth owning is the Finnish masonry 
firplace and I think it weighs 2 to 3 tons. Definitely not a trivial 
second storey affair.

I myself favor biodiesel cogeneration so electricity and heat are 
obtained from the same fuel. Can reduce electricity cost to around 5 
cents a kilowatt hour. Then there is the reliability of not being 
vulnerable to problems on the grid. Lousiana is a good case in point re 
not having your own.


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[Biofuel] Solar Hot Water and Radiant Heat

2005-09-04 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

I know that this has been discussed in the past but, a search of the 
archives turns up discussions from a few years ago (unless my searching 
was less than adequate).  Seems to me that the timing is right to rehash 
the topic.

I have been researching solar hot water and radiant heating periodically 
for a while now, knowing that I have a few zones in my house that are 
not sufficiently warm.  I also know that I want to do whatever I can to 
conserve.  Under the current circumstances here in the U.S., there is no 
better time than now.  Yeah, I know, yesterday was the best time but, I 
was fishing.

In our particular situation, we have two bedrooms that stay on the 
cooler side (actually they're downright cold).  They are over the garage 
and on the north side of the house.  The garage below is unfinished but 
the ceiling above the garage is insulated.  However, the house is 50 
years old.  I have no idea how old that insulation is nor do I know the 
R-factor of it.  I would like to finish/insulate the garage walls, pull 
down the garage ceiling,  install radiant heating below my sons' 
bedrooms and reinsulate the garage ceiling.  I know that proper 
insulation alone will make a big difference but, based on several 
variables I am certain that it won't fix the problem all together.

I plan to implement a system that gathers the Sun's energy within a 
solar collector filled with an anti-freeze of sorts.  The heat produced 
is transferred to water stored in an insulated storage tank via a heat 
exchange and then distributed to the zones via tubing.  Sound like the 
standard setup?  I am also considering building a window unit like I've 
seen in books by the Rodale Press.  Additionally, I am still in the 
process of scrounging parts for my biodiesel processor.  If I do this 
right, I could use the system to pre-heat my feed stock at a minimum.  I 
plan to add more radiant solar heat to the rest of the house later but, 
because of the layout of the house, I will likely create two independent 
systems.  This goes along nicely with my techy nature of building in 
redundancy anyway.

Now, the questions that I pose to you are these:

1. Is this, truly, a worthwile endeavor? I suppose I should mention
that I live in Lancaster County, PA U.S.
2.  What is The source for information on this subject?
3.  Can I Appropriately build a solar collector that is as efficient? 
(When I say Appropriately I mean -
With materials that are readily available and sensible)
4.  Should I plan to add on instead of having 2 separate systems?
5.  Is there any reason why I couldn't use automotive anti-freeze?
6.  Does any one have experience with Radiantec?  I am
 considering using some of their components.
7.  What is the group's collective experience?
8.  Might I be better off building a window mounted solar collector 
initially?
9.  Are there other more efficient solutions?

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Take care,
Ken

***Editor's Note***  I am my own editor and often drink on the job.

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Re: [Biofuel] Solar Hot Water and Radiant Heat

2005-09-04 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/4/05, *robert luis rabello* [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
If you do this, however, you'll want

to install grommets in the floor joists.  We didn't, so whenever the
boiler fires up, the plastic pipes tap against the joists.  It sounds
like a myriad of golf balls bouncing on the floor--not altogether
unpleasant, but certainly something unnecessary.


Is there a specific type of material or will any old grommet do?

Part of that greater efficiency,
however, may stem from the fact that I sealed every join between floor
and wall and caulked around every window when we built the house.


I'm working on that sort of stuff but, it's much slower in the retro-fit.

You can set your boiler to heat an insulated storage tank and
put in an extra coil for solar input.  If the thermostat on the
storage tank is set for a given temperature, your boiler will only
activate when the solar thermal energy has been used first.


This is something that I've been trying to figure out for a while.  I 
was way over
complicating the design in my head.  As long as I build or modify the 
storage
tank myself and change my thermostat, it's not nearly as complicated as I
initially thought.

In theory, you could tap heat from the tank for domestic hot water as
well, so a single system could serve home heating and water heating. 


That was definitely a design consideration that I skipped in my post.
I was planning on implementing that as addition 2 of phase 2.

Most good boilers are more efficient than water heater tanks,
engendering another savings (albeit a small one) down the road.

Disadvantages include:

1.  The potential for structural damage with a leak.  A properly
designed system SHOULDN'T leak, but then, I live in earthquake
country and we have to take that risk seriously.


This isn't  TOO much of a concern for us as the plumbing will be in the
basement.  Part of our basement is finished but, a good disaster would
be just the reason to do all the proper insulating which my better half
is none too enthusiastic about.

2.  Greater initial expense for radiant heat.


How so?  Of course, I'm not dealing with initial expenses here anyway.


4.  Wood fired boilers pollute more than wood fired forced air
systems because water is much more efficient at removing heat
energy from the fire box.  This can also result in
creosote build up.


 From a related yet different perspective, do I introduce any trouble 
by burning
my wood burning fireplace insert?  In seems to do a very good job and has a
fan.  Do you reverse ceiling fans during the winter?  I'll be performing 
on-site
tests this winter in order to prove either my wife or myself correct.

Start with insulation and draft proofing.  Get good windows and use
window quilts wherever possible.  Once you've taken care of these
easily implemented, affordable solutions, the rest will cost less
money and involve less work.


As I mentioned before,  I'm working toward that end.  It certainly takes 
a while
when you're taking over a home.

Thanks much for your comments,
Take care,
Ken

***Editor's Note***  I am my own editor and often drink on the job.

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Re: [Biofuel] Solar Hot Water and Radiant Heat

2005-09-04 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/4/05, *Kirk McLoren* [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

As a rule of thumb a dollar of insulation buys more BTUs than a
dollar of collector.
This is probably true until you pass R50 for the roof/ceiling and
R40 for the walls.


I couldn't agree more.  I'd like to bank on doing the proper insulation 
alone before winter but, I am not willing to take the chance that 
insulation alone will protect me enough from the energy crisis that 
we're about to witness.

Thanks much,
Take care,
Ken

***Editor's Note***  I am my own editor and often drink on the job.

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Re: [Biofuel] Flywheel 'batteries'

2005-09-01 Thread Ken Dunn
Could one replace precession forces with inertia?  I've never heard the term
precession force.


On 9/1/05, Joe Street  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

He turned it sideways and the precession forces crashed the bearing.  That
pump didn't stay in his hand for long..
Joe


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Re: [Biofuel] Flywheel 'batteries'

2005-09-01 Thread Ken Dunn
I didn't want to be picky.  I just wanted to comprehend.  No sense readin' all
this unless I'm going to bother understanding it.

Joe wrote:
Ok how about inertial forces due to gyroscopic precession?


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Re: [Biofuel] The Culture Wars and Racism

2005-08-03 Thread Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com


Michael Redler wrote:


Hi everyone,

Earlier this week snip


and again


On Aug 2, 2005, at 12:03 PM, Michael Redler wrote:

 Joe, you xenophobic moron.
 snip


Michael,

I didn't read an aweful lot of the exchange but, I can't imagine that 
this approach is going to be met with anything but aggression.


Take care,
Ken

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[Biofuel] Homemade Shredder was: Compost Update

2005-07-18 Thread Ken Dunn
Anyone have any suggestions for a homemade shredder for yard waste.  I have
used my lawn mower but, the blade gets really beat up.  Using the mower can
also be quite a struggle if I don't get to it before the rain does.  I have a
ton of oak leaves and they, alone, take a really long time to break down.  The
compost that I'm getting seems very healthy but, I can't out-pace the trees.

Thanks in advance...

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Homemade Shredder was: Compost Update

2005-07-18 Thread Ken Dunn


Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 
 Maybe these will help...
 
 http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1984_March_April/Build_a_Common 
 sense_Compost_Shredder
 Build a Commonsense Compost Shredder : Mother Earth News
 
 http://solstice.crest.org/discussiongroups/resources/stoves/Deutsch/sh 
 redders.html
 LOW COST SHREDDERS IN CAMBODIA
 
 Follows an old post from one of the Wise Old Men at the Homestead list.
 
 HTH
 
 Best
 
 Keith

snip



Thanks Keith,

Lots of good stuff there.  I thought about something similar to the mover
conversion.  That might be the way to go for general shredding and I can rent
a chipper once a year for the bigger stuff.

Maybe someone has other ideas also, though.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: Fwd: [Biofuel] give up meat?

2005-07-10 Thread Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com


bob allen wrote:


Howdy Ken et al

Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com wrote:
I think you mean beans and grains here.  There are several traditional 
dishes where beans and grains are present. My late fathers favorite- 
beans and corn bread (he wasn't a vegetarian, but grew up dirt poor 
where meat was a luxury)


You are correct, my mistake.

Can I assume that the soy milk is supplemented with B-12 'cause it 
shouldn't be there naturally?


That is correct.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Pimentel is at it again

2005-07-10 Thread Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com

Keith said:
 I suppose you could feed it to pigs if there's some pressing reason 
not to sell it,
 but the rational thing to do is to sell it, or you risk cutting the 
profitability of a
 major segment of the farm to perhaps below economic levels. It's the 
sustainability

 aspects that will suffer first.

I suspected that profit might bear into this discussion.  And I suppose 
that rightly so.  We could probably debate profitability ad nausium 
but, there is certainly little room for loss on a family-run farm.  A 
point well made!


Why do you object to milk production? Or is it, again, that you're 
objecting to industrialised milk production?


I wouldn't say that I object to milk production at all, I am questioning 
the sustainability of the practice and also the nutritional value to 
humans.  And yes, I do most definitely object to industrialized milk 
production.  Really,  I'm just trying to understand.  Hopefully, it 
might help someone else also.


There's a calf in the first place, then the milk. No calf every year, 
no milk either. Industrial operations remove the calf after two or 
three days and feed it a commercial brew instead (often containing 
cattle blood, IIRC). No need for that, there's enough milk for the 
calf and plenty for the market as well.


Right, but I assume that we have both been on the same page for some 
while now that we are not discussing industrial operations.  We both 
agree that industrial farming will have to cease eventually.  If, in 
practice, there really is enough for the calf and still for market, then 
I MIGHT be willing to do some reconsidering.  More research on my part 
there.



And we're not using human manure for fertilization.

Why not? With ley farming there's no need for anything extra, you'd 
use the humanure elsewhere on the farm. It's only part of an overall 
composting operation anyway, and of course ley farms do composting as 
well.


Well, I don't think that the practice is allowed in the U.S. regardless 
of its value.  I probably should have worded that point differently to 
include only the United States.


I'm still reading (and probably will be for quite a while).  Doesn't 
a lactating cow consume more water and food?



So what?


So, IF (speculating, of course) there is no net gain, then the 
additional inputs are wasted and could be better used elsewhere.  My 
question is at what point do you begin to notice diminishing returns?  
In other words, if I reduce the amount of acreage that I provide for 
grazing (because I am not taking milk from my cows) can I grow more food 
for human consumption?


Isn't that an increase in the competition for resources that you 
mentioned previous?



What competition for resources did I mention? I'm not thinking in 
terms of competition but of symbiosis, collaboration among parts of a 
whole.


here:

I said:
 You are correct, livestock definitely help us
 tend the soil but, that doesn't mean that you have to eat
 the animal for it to be beneficial to you.

You said:
 Actually it does, eat them or compete with them.

 The more you read, the more things begin to corroborate
 each other and fall into place, then it's easier. This is the place 
to start:


 Introduction to An Agricultural Testament
 http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/howardAT/AT1.html
 An Agricultural Testament - Albert Howard - 1

The problem is that there are too many resources that corroborate one 
another on both sides of this debate.  Don't think that this is the 
first time that I have had this discussion.  I spent a long time (a 
really long time) making the decission of cut meat and dairy out of my 
diet.  I was also raised in a family with a long farm lineages on both 
sides.  Dairy farming is a way of life that I am fairly familiar with.


I think that our views are close enough that I can certainly accept you 
promoting your views.  I also don't think that it is irresponsible for 
me to suggest that people eat a balanced diet of fruits, vegetables and 
grains grown by local organic family farms while only consuming meat 
when an animal has outlived its usefullness.  I don't see us agreeing 
100% on this issue though.  But, if you can convince me, I'll be your 
poster child.


If our societies would just return to responsible hunting and gathering, 
we would have no need for this conversation.


Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Pimentel is at it again

2005-07-10 Thread Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com



Ken Dunn - CountyEarth.com wrote:

Why do you object to milk production? Or is it, again, that you're 
objecting to industrialised milk production?



I wouldn't say that I object to milk production at all, I am 
questioning the sustainability of the practice and also the 
nutritional value to humans.  And yes, I do most definitely object to 
industrialized milk production.  Really,  I'm just trying to 
understand.  Hopefully, it might help someone else also.


I should add that as mammals ourselves there is nothing that bovine milk 
provides to us that we cannot get directly from other foods or 
manufacture ourselves.


Take care,
Ken

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