Hello Bob, thank you very much. I appreciate your information. I do plan to
connect everything together, although I will only be able to go around half of
the house. There’s nothing going on in the front of the house, including
antenna, or electricity.
Gerry Leary Wb6ivf
On Jul 31, 2023, at
Fred is absolutely correct on this point. The NEC {National Electrical
Code} clearly states that all driven grounds MUST be bonded to the AC
mains service entrance ground. There is NO exception to this
procedure. An exception does exist when the structure is XX number of
feet distant from
Jim's slides give great examples and the msg or either keeping all connections
at the same potential or completely isolated is all very good advice.
Having dealt with this my entire life in industry though, there is one more
thing to add. Lightning strikes are always matters of probability.
On 7/31/2023 2:14 PM, jerry wrote:
Interesting. Suppose the service entrance is at one end of the house,
and the ham shack at the other end? I don't think it's physically
possible to provide a low inductance path that's 60 feet long, is it?
I've posted a link to my tutorial, which covers
It isn't limited to vertical antennas at all. I once got zapped with a
thick 2 inch long bright blue arc from an 80m Inverted-V that didn't
have any static bleedoff. I used to just short the shack end of the
coax for that purpose, but one time I had forgotten to do that until I
remembered
Static buildup is a problem mostly with vertical antennas. Wind blowing across
the antenna creates static. Measure the end of the coax cable to see if there
is DC connection to ground. Some of the lightening devices have static drain
inductors. I think AC/DC does. Polyphasers do not. Coil “Q”
These kinds of questions are exactly why there is an entire ARRL book on the
subject.
Short version, you need a system that provides both a safety ground for the AC
power wiring and an RF ground for lightning protection.
In 2020, both the CZU Lightning Complex and SCU Lightning Complex fires
Interesting. Suppose the service entrance is at one end of the house,
and the ham shack at the other end? I don't think it's physically
possible to provide a low inductance path that's 60 feet long, is it?
Would a solution be to DC-isolate the station from the grounded
antenna?
Say with a
Hello Fred, I am getting ready to put up a hex beam. I’m going to put it on a
31 foot self supporting aluminum mast from US towers. The mast sits on a base,
and the base will sit on a concrete pad. that is 4 ft.² and 6 feet deep. Would
you offer me a little advice on grounding, for lightning
Be very careful of advice regarding lightning protection. There are
some very good sources, starting with the NEC and including material
from ARRL. Some is somewhat non-intuitive. For example, the NEC
requires that any additional "earth electrodes" [aka ground rods] be
bonded to the service
My antenna is a broad-banded, low-Q, folded-fan vertical, low profile at
just 33 ft. tall on a city lot. It covers 160m thru 6m with just a few
components in its "tuner box" at feedpoint on the ground. Of course
everything is directly connected to Mother Earth ground, DC wise and RF
wise,
Geoff,
I certainly understand your "do it right" approach...the impossible:
8 ft ground rods -- I have bedrock at 36-42". When I put the tower up, I
tried. I rented a heavy SDS hammer drill and, despite hours of trying,
never got deeper than 5 ft. And what good is a single, shallow rod in
For Sale
Original owner / non-smoking environment
K3 s/n 1193 was just replaced with K4D # 1285
Includes:
* KPA3 - 100w internal amp
* KIO3 (Remote I/O rev C) Serial CAT communications, digital I/O
control, audio I/O for use with sound cards, dual speaker and
Lightning is attracted to the highest point contact on earth from a cloud
passing overhead. If your tower, or tree in the yard, the chimney on your
roof, or the roof itself can be the closest to the heavily charged cloud
passing just overhead. When the leader from earth, tree, building or tower
is
First thing and foremost - switches are mostly not relevant to protection.
Energy that can travel 1000' through the sky is likely to continue across
most switches. So, the utmost of safety is what you indicated you did -
disconnect. By disconnect, I mean either disconnect outside the
Pete,
I'm using a CM500 that is a year or so old. It replaced one that finally
fell apart and I was tired of gluing it back together.
When I replaced the headset, I did not need to make any adjustments!
I went from a K3 to a K4 with the Yamaha headset plugged into the rear
connectors.
My Mic gain
My CM-500 is about 4 years old, and shedding ear-pads, but it works fine
with my K3.
73, Pete N4ZR
On 7/31/2023 6:52 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
I had never used my CM-500 on a K3 so I can't do that comparison. But
on the K4 I had to turn on the internal mic preamp and set the mic
gain all the way
I had never used my CM-500 on a K3 so I can't do that comparison. But on
the K4 I had to turn on the internal mic preamp and set the mic gain all
the way to maximum. That seemed to give about the correct level - I
could talk at normal loudness to get 5 on the ALC.
I also use the CM-500 on my
18 matches
Mail list logo
