Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 
I've used the Syba USB 2.0 24 bit 96KHz DAC before.
Search for B00KGK5I38 on Amazon


It's currently listed at 22.99   





- Original Message -

From: "Bill Frantz"  
To: "Rick Bates, NK7I"  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:14:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] External sound card advice needed to attach to K3 

I know the public service/emcom people have pushed on this 
issue, because a fair number of public service events involve 
providing communication support for parades, and parades have 
bands, and bands are quite loud and overcome even a noise 
canceling microphone. I think there has even been an official 
ruling that these incidental sounds, that come along for the 
ride with legal communication, won't get you a notice from the FCC. 

Now transmitting voice in the CW bands is a different story. For 
starts, it's not incidental to legal communication. 

73 Bill AE6JV 

On 1/1/21 at 1:22 PM, rick.n...@gmail.com (Rick Bates, NK7I) wrote: 

>Defined in the simplest of terms, any sound transmitted other 
>than for the purposes of communication (voice, tones for 
>digital) is illegal. 
> 
>This includes background music in the same room as the 
>microphone (though generally ignored as part of the 
>environment, in the US; same as telephone 'hold' music in an 
>autopatch; traffic noise etc.) and certainly includes the 
>'musical' sounds from most OS (they offer no communication). 

--- 
Bill Frantz |The nice thing about standards| Periwinkle 
(408)348-7900 |is there are so many to choose| 150 
Rivermead Rd #235 
www.pwpconsult.com |from. - Andrew Tanenbaum | 
Peterborough, NH 03458 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Bypass Power Limit?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 as per the manual

"You may run up to 100 watts through the KPA500 in STBY."




On Friday, December 25, 2020, 08:01:49 PM EST, eric norris via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 How much power can I run through a KPA500 that is in BYPASS, or turned off?  
That is, using exciter power only?
Thanks!

73, Eric WD6DBM

 
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Re: [Elecraft] Genius vs. Stupidity

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 It all depends on where you are on the curve.




On Friday, December 25, 2020, 07:11:43 PM EST, Clay Autery 
 wrote:  
 
 MANY higher-intelligence folks APPEAR to be "insane" to other folks 
falling higher up on the bell curve.
I am in no way anywhere nearly as intelligent as the Professor, but have 
had any number of encounters in my 57 years where either the "look" or 
the actual words from the person with whom I was interacting clearly 
communicated that they thought I was "insane".

"I'm not crazy; my mother had me tested!"  - Sheldon Cooper, Big Bang 
Theory  

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 12/25/20 17:28, Joseph Shuman via Elecraft wrote:
> Something like the following was attributed to Albert:
>
> “There is a question that makes me hazy,
> Is it you, or I, that is crazy?
>
> I worked at a DOE research lab many years ago for someone who met and spoke 
> with Einstein.  My boss asserted that, after talking to Einstein, he knew who 
> was crazy.  Never told me who, though. . .
>
> Keeping Watch-
> shu
>
> Joe Shuman, NZ8P
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit Assembly

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 If you search for "Menda 35120" you will find other vendors selling them
Mouser, Newark< Digi-Key, etc


On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 07:16:02 PM EST, Joe K2UF  
wrote:  
 
 And $9.00 shipping + tax 

73,  joe K2UF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of K9MA
Sent: Wednesday, December 2, 2020 3:57 PM
To: Harry Yingst; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit Assembly

And a whole $2.00!

That's pretty much what the Heathkit one looks like, only red.

73,
Scott K9MA

On 12/2/2020 3:56 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:
> Looks like Jenson Tools sells them
>
> Look Here
> https://www.jensentools.com/menda-35120-four-way-nut-starter/p/758ie35
> 1
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 03:37:55 PM EST, K9MA 
>  wrote:
>
>
> When assembling the KAT500 kit yesterday, I found it frustrating 
> trying to get the nuts started on the connector screws. Then I 
> remembered assembling Heathkits, like 50 years ago. Heathkit provided 
> a little plastic tube thingy for starting hex nuts. (I'm sure some of 
> you other OF's remember them. They were red.) I looked in the toolbox, 
> and there were two of them! (They're still red.) Given all the hex 
> nuts in the KAT500 kit, if I hadn't already had them, I'd have been 
> glad to pay an extra 10 cents or so if one were included with the kit.
>
> 73,
>
> Scott K9MA
>
> --
> Scott  K9MA
>
> k...@sdellington.us 
>
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> hlyin...@yahoo.com 


--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit Assembly

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Looks like Jenson Tools sells them
Look Here 
https://www.jensentools.com/menda-35120-four-way-nut-starter/p/758ie351





On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 03:37:55 PM EST, K9MA  
wrote:  
 
 When assembling the KAT500 kit yesterday, I found it frustrating trying 
to get the nuts started on the connector screws. Then I remembered 
assembling Heathkits, like 50 years ago. Heathkit provided a little 
plastic tube thingy for starting hex nuts. (I'm sure some of you other 
OF's remember them. They were red.) I looked in the toolbox, and there 
were two of them! (They're still red.) Given all the hex nuts in the 
KAT500 kit, if I hadn't already had them, I'd have been glad to pay an 
extra 10 cents or so if one were included with the kit.

73,

Scott K9MA

-- 
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] CM-500 - Replacing the ear cushions

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 The way to do is is actually quite simple:

Loosen the three screws then pull the old cushion off; Do Not Remove the screws.

Take the new ear cushion and Stretch the part that will go in the slot

Then working quickly (before it stretches back) work it into the open slot.

On the side with the cord you may need to remove the bottom screw to get enough 
clearance for the strain relief for the cord to fit.

Retighten the screws and you are done.




Here is a video showing how to do it on a pair of Sennheiser HD280 that may 
help https://youtu.be/zUtC-MatRD8
Note: CM-500 have screws that clamp down on the ear cushions and Sennheiser's 
do not, but the technique is similar. 


   
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Transformer

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Here is a video that shows what the root issue may actually be.
https://youtu.be/80XN7OHoBSc




On Tuesday, October 20, 2020, 02:11:51 PM EDT, David Gilbert 
 wrote:  
 
 
Because everyone who now owns a KPA500 owned it years ago and was a list 
member back then??

Besides, I've been a member of this list since at least 2008 and I can 
recall many KPA500 owners still complaining about hum even after trying 
to follow all of the advice given here.  It's still a valid topic and 
not outside the list boundary rules.

And of course, every single post in this recent KPA500 hum thread has 
been clearly identified in the headline and could be easily ignored or 
deleted by anyone who was able to read it.  You could have done so 
yourself in far less time than it took you to write your post.

Dave  AB7E



On 10/19/2020 9:34 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
> The torque spec is called out in the manual.  Why not use a torque wrench?
> Can we please not resurrect the KPA500 hum thread already beat to death
> multiple times years ago?  Or does everyone need to chime in yet again?
>
> 55 inch-pounds.
>
> 73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Thank you


On Monday, August 24, 2020, 02:13:58 PM EDT, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Harry,

Unless it is the machined pin sockets which exclude air, the "don't do 
it" folks win.
Elecraft had problems with that in the K3 which lead to them sending 
many gold-plated pins out for replacement.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/24/2020 1:29 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.But I don't 
> recall ever reading a 100% definitive answer
> So does anyone know the real answer?
> Thank you
  
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[Elecraft] IC with Tin leads and Machined Pin Gold Sockets ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I've read various points of view from don't do it to it's OK.But I don't recall 
ever reading a 100% definitive answer
So does anyone know the real answer?
Thank you


 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF interference from grow lights.

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 It could also be Metal Halide lights over someone's Saltwater Aquarium.
I run Metal Halide lights over my aquarium and mine are quiet.But I knew a guy 
who did not have his grounded and shieldedand they put out so much noise they 
wiped out his TV reception.
I gave him a bunch of snap on chokes and as I recallhe also grounded the 
reflectors and it quieted it down.





On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 09:09:03 PM EDT, ab2tc  
wrote:  
 
 Hello all,

https://www.edn.com/how-cops-are-finding-grow-ops-with-am-radios/

The above is a link to an article in the EDN magazine (a technical journal
primarily aimed at EEs). The article is more than five years old, but maybe
it is only recently this type of interference has started to show up in
upstate New York. I have one of these noise sources somewhere in my
neighborhood (it’s not that easy to pinpoint due to the low frequency). I
know this is OT and maybe somewhat controversial, but this type of strong
interference is of great concern to the amateur radio community. I am not
after anybody in my neighborhood getting arrested, but I very much want to
see the interference stop. Even if the operation is legal, the emission is
definitely way outside FCC part 15 limits. Quote from the article:

“..conducted emission data clearly shows peaks as high as 100+ dBuV (50 dB
over the limit) in the range 6 to 8 MHz, with lower peaks at 14, 18, and 21
MHz.”

My interference is primarily in the 7MHz band. 14 MHz is virtually free of
it. See here for a screenshot:

http://www.ab2tc.com/growlights.png

There are three peaks, approximately 49 to 50kHz apart. The center one is
centered under the cross hair cursor. As you can see, the band is starting
to come to life at about 2:30 in the afternoon. The interference is on 24/7
as far as I can tell.

Does anybody have any experiences like this and/or any suggestions what to
do? If you want to keep this confidential, E-mail me privately. My E-mail
address is OK on qrz.com.

AB2TC – Knut

PS. I have previously reported power line noise to the electrical company
and have had positive responses (fixes) from them. I suspect that this kind
of interference is not easily detectable on their UHF based sniffers;
besides I am not sure if conducted interference from residences lies under
their jurisdiction (there are only residences here for many blocks).





--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] I'm building a personal email list....

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Same here
On Saturday, June 20, 2020, 12:00:04 PM EDT,  wrote:  
 
 I am in the same boat as Don.

Hank / KR7X

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 8:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I'm building a personal email list

I am with Jim and Gwen.  I have too many lists right now.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/20/2020 11:03 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote:
> Ken,
> Exactly as Gwen Patton said, CONTACT list fine as my email address is 
> also on QRZ but if you are starting a reflector.  Do NOT put my email 
> address in automatically.  IF I don't have the prerogative to OPT-OUT, 
> I want no part of it.
> 
> Jim, W0EB
> 
> 
>> I'm confused. Do you mean a personal CONTACT list, or a mailing list 
>> like the Elecraft reflector?
>>
>> If it's the former, I don't mind if you associate my address with, 
>> say, my call sign, so you can contact me if you need to. That's 
>> because you could look me up on QRZ and find my email address. It's 
>> no big deal.
>>
>> But if you mean a REFLECTOR, including me in mass mailings, then I'll 
>> have to say no, thank you. If you want to have a reflector of your 
>> own, I strongly suggest that you make it opt-in, not opt-OUT. I get 
>> hundreds of emails a day, and need to choose the reflectors I 
>> subscribe to very carefully.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K60XV - No longer available?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Downeast Microwaver already did that
Look Here  http://01895fa.netsolhost.com/PDF/Manuals/EKTI.pdf
From this page https://www.downeastmicrowave.com/articles.asp?ID=252




On Thursday, September 12, 2019, 06:56:07 AM EDT, Bill Coleman 
 wrote:  
 
 Gwen,

You missed the point. They DISCONTINUED the K60XV because they could no longer 
obtain the bottom-adjustment trimmer caps.

Wayne suggested someone could design a new board that just had the XV part of 
the kit.

What I’m saying is that the existing board would work just fine for the XV part 
of the kit. Since Elecraft CANNOT supply all of the 60m parts, since some of 
them are no longer available, why not just sell a re-branded kit that just has 
the XV parts.

There is NO liability concern, since the rebranded kit works just as advertised.

I’ve encountered many, many electronic products in my lifetime where a single 
board is variously populated with parts, depending on the features present. 

I spent a little bit of time looking at the K60XV schematic, and it looks like 
the 60m component is about 10 or so parts

> On Sep 11, 2019, at 10:02 PM, Gwen Patton  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> It's not just a matter of deciding to sell the thing without a few parts. 
> Manufacturing and distributing hardware, whether pre-assembled or in kit 
> form, takes a LOT of work. 
> Check out this video from Dave Jones at the EEVBlog on the economics of 
> manufacturing your own hardware: https://youtu.be/UwrkfHadeQQ  There's also a 
> long thread on his forum: 
> https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-887-the-economics-of-selling-hardware/
> 
> I strongly recommend Dave's Youtube channel and his forum for information 
> about electronics. If you're in the industry, maybe you've already run into 
> it. I hope the video I linked helps clarify why it's not just a matter of 
> putting out a kit or product "without the 60m parts". (I wouldn't even want 
> to know the product liability side of distributing a product missing some 
> parts because they're no longer available. That sounds like a lawsuit waiting 
> to happen.)
> 
> 73,
> Gwen, NG3P (who in no way works for Elecraft, and is just putting in her 2 
> cents worth)
> 
> On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 6:21 PM Bill Coleman  wrote:
> Here’s a radical idea. Why not just sell the K60XV, minus the 60m parts?
> 
> That way, no one has to design a new board.
> 
> You could call it the K—XV, where the 60 part has been subtracted.
> 
> > On Aug 27, 2019, at 1:32 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> > 
> > The high-value, low-temperature-coefficient trimmer capacitors leveraged in 
> > the design are no longer available. Unfortunately we don't have staff 
> > available to redesign the board to do it in another way, and demand is low.
> > 
> > The transverter interface by itself could live on a smaller board. 
> > Schematics are available if someone would like to home-roll a replacement. 
> > We could supply small quantities of the programmed PIC16C621 that runs the 
> > module (cost TBD).
> > 
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> > 
> > 
> >> On Aug 27, 2019, at 9:13 AM, Neil Zampella  wrote:
> >> 
> >> FWIW .. this question is for Wayne or Eric,  could the K60XV be
> >> redesigned using currently available components, or perhaps something
> >> that would allow easy use of the transverters?
> >> 
> >> Neil, KN3ILZ
> > 
> > 
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> 
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> 
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> 
> -- 
> 
> -+-+-+-+-
> Jenny Everywhere's Infinite: Quark Time
> http://quarktime.net

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
            -- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgraded K3 vs K4

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 I have a loaded K3 and the radio does all that I need and then some and I'm 
only 55



On Friday, August 30, 2019, 07:48:00 AM EDT, Bob DeHaney 
 wrote:  
 
 I have upgraded my K3 with all possible K3S upgrades and in my urban 
environment it couldn’t get much better.  The K4 looks like a beautiful rig and 
I could afford it…but, I will be 80 in January so I consider how much use I 
could get out of a K4..:-(  If I see a barebones K3S at a good price though, 
hummm.

 

Or as my dentist said after installing a permanent bridge: “That’ll hold 10 
years so we’re on the safe side…”

 

Vy 73 de Bob DJ0RD/WU5T

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Re: [Elecraft] Silent power supply for a K3s

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Another vote for the Astron Power Supplies they work well.

Use the shortest run between the PS and radio you can and of a heavy gauge wire.



On Tuesday, June 11, 2019, 6:15:14 PM EDT, Bob Nielsen - N7XY 
 wrote:  
 
 The Astrons are quiet and pretty reliable.  I have had a RS20 since 1980 
and the only problem I had was cured by replacing the regulator chip 
about 35 years ago.

Bob, N7XY

On 6/10/19 5:04 PM, Alan Corbeth wrote:
> I have an Astron RS35 power Supply purchased in 1991.  There was a period 
> where I didn’t use it for ten years.  Now it’s in use daily and so far it 
> continues to be totally quiet.
>
> Alan
> K7FH
>
>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 3:56 AM, Bill  wrote:
>>
>> I have several Power Werx switchers and prefer them for their size over the 
>> heavy analog supplies. Fans are not a problem (actually, I hear nothing from 
>> them at all) - IF you design your radio desk for proper equipment placement. 
>> Place the power supply at your right hand - and you WILL hear noise, XFMR, 
>> fan, etc.
>>
>> It is amazing what proper station design/construction can do for making 
>> silence. Open faced metal shelving and bare desktops don't cut it.
>>
>> Just for grins, I put one of those Nanoxia fans in my IC-7300 and silenced 
>> it completely. Worth the few dollars and effort. No temperature changes 
>> noted. Hmmm - KPA500?
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] STRAIGHT KEY WIRING-KX3 - Dress up the wire

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 To dress up the wire on my key I took a piece of black parachute cord and 
pulled out the center strands.
I then slid the wire through the center of the parachute cord. A little 
heat-shrink at the ends keeps it dressed up
On the plug end of the wire the heat-shrink is hidden by the plug housing. 
(even with a molded plug end it should still dress it up)






On Monday, June 10, 2019, 8:17:29 PM EDT, David Haines  
wrote:  
 
 I'm very interested, too.  Also ideas for a decent, attractive, flexible 
wire to use with my J-38 key.

On 6/10/2019 7:54 PM, Gerry Miller wrote:
> HI,  I AM SEEKING INFORMATION RE CORRECT WIRING OF A STRAIGHT KEY FOR THE 
> KX3.  I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL COMBINATIONS OF THE STEREO PLUG TO NO AVAIL.  ANY 
> HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.  73  GERRY MILLER,  aa...@arrl.net
> 
> Drink This Before Bed, Watch Your Body Fat Melt Like Crazy
> Diet Insider
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5cfeedf99e5e66df915fest03vuc
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Re: [Elecraft] Deaf K3

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Try pressing the 'RX ANT' Button and see it changes


On Saturday, June 8, 2019, 08:41:00 AM EDT, Mike March  
wrote:  
 
 My K3 (no ATU) purchased used at Dayton is quite deaf.  Transmit seems fine.
Antenna routing perhaps?
Thanks in advance.
Mike

-- 
Michael March  K4QU
242 Clay Hill Dr.
Winchester, VA  22602
mikek...@gmail.com
540-539-8500 cell
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Is there a way to permanently set the AI1 Parameter?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 The amp just watches the line.


On Friday, June 7, 2019, 02:35:15 PM EDT, Andy Durbin  
wrote:  
 
 "I have an external amplifier that can follow the band changes on the K2 by 
reading the frequency data from the serial output.
To enable this the command AI1; needs to be sent to the K2 first."

Doesn't the amplifier have a mode in which it interrogates the connected rig 
for specific parameters such as IF, FA, and FB?  If it does, you can forget 
about AI mode.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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[Elecraft] K2 - Is there a way to permanently set the AI1 Parameter?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have an external amplifier that can follow the band changes on the K2 by 
reading the frequency data from the serial output.
To enable this the command AI1; needs to be sent to the K2 first.

The issue is that if the K2 is powered off the command AI1; needs to be resent 
again at power up since it will not survive a power cycle.
 Is there a way to permanently set the AI1 Parameter?


If not it appears a solution may be to program a small micro controller to send 
that command upon power up (with a small delay).

Thank you.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB to 9 Pin Cable (info)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Yes it was a typo it should have been RTS

The RTS (Request To Send) and CTS (Clear To Send) probably don't need
to be tied together but some programs may want it so I tied them together.


   





 On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 3:30:20 PM EDT, Andy Durbin  
wrote:  
 
 "Before plugging that into the K2 AUX IO connector, the Green, Brown, and Red 
conductors must be cut or damage to the K2 and/or the adapter can be damaged."

It appears to me that the only AUX connector pins that are used by this 
proposed cable are 2, 3, and 5.    If the K2 will accept RS-232 levels without 
damage then I don't see how any damage can be done by the proposed cable.  The 
cable specification would be clearer if the meaning of "RTC" were known.  I 
suspect it's a typo for RTS and that the CTS and RTS wires are tied together 
but not connected to the AUX connector.

73,
Andy, k3wyc



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB to 9 Pin Cable (info)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 To Clarify this information
-
The color codes are from the wires on the FTDI USB Cable 
(USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-0.0)
-
The only wires that will be connected are the
Yellow Wire that will be connected to Pin 2 of the Male 9 pin connector
Orange Wite that will be connected to Pin 3 of the Male 9 pin connector
Black Wire that will be connected to Pin 5 of the Male 9 pin connector
-
The Green Wire on the USB cable is the RTS Line
The Brown Wire on the USB cable is the CTS line
The Green and Brown Wires should be connected to each other and nothing else.-
The Red wire is unused 
-
This should clear up any confusion

 
 I'm passing this info along for those who may have a K2 and find this useful.

FTDI makes a USB to RS-232 Cable Part Number: USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-0.0
The cable has a USB plug on one end and is terminated in wires on the other end.
--
Here is the Pin-out to make a USB to K2 Cable

Color - Signal - Notes
Yellow - RXD - Pin 2 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data In From K2
Orange - TXD - Pin 3 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data Out To K2
Black - Gnd - Pin 5 on 9 Pin Connector - Ground
Green - RTS - Tied to CTS Line
Brown - CTS - Tied to RTC Line
Red - Power - Unused - 0.0v
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 USB to 9 Pin Cable (info)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Please read what I posted and you will see it is correct
The color codes are from the USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-0.0


On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 2:42:53 PM EDT, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Harry,

Before plugging that into the K2 AUX IO connector, the Green, Brown, and 
Red conductors must be cut or damage to the K2 and/or the adapter can be 
damaged.  Note that the connector on the K2 is labeled AUX IO, and that 
is for a reason - it is NOT RS-232.

At the very least, if that adapter ties RTS and CTS together, that will 
put +12 volts on the VRFDET internal K2 signal line and the K2 will not 
transmit with that condition present, and it may damage the MCU pin 2 
input.  If that pin is damaged, the K2 will transmit but will have no 
power control and the power will go to the maximum which will cause 
additional damage if that condition exists for more than a very short time.

Build the PC to K2 cable shown in the KIO2 and KPA100 manuals and plug 
it into that adapter or most any other FTDI USB to Serial adpater.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/4/2019 2:10 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm passing this info along for those who may have a K2 and find this useful.
> 
> FTDI makes a USB to RS-232 Cable Part Number: USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-0.0
> The cable has a USB plug on one end and is terminated in wires on the other 
> end.
> --
> Here is the Pin-out to make a USB to K2 Cable
> 
> Color - Signal - Notes
> Yellow - RXD - Pin 2 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data In From K2
> Orange - TXD - Pin 3 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data Out To K2
> Black - Gnd - Pin 5 on 9 Pin Connector - Ground
> Green - RTS - Tied to CTS Line
> Brown - CTS - Tied to RTC Line
> Red - Power - Unused - 0.0v
> --
  
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[Elecraft] K2 USB to 9 Pin Cable (info)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I'm passing this info along for those who may have a K2 and find this useful.

FTDI makes a USB to RS-232 Cable Part Number: USB-RS232-WE-1800-BT-0.0
The cable has a USB plug on one end and is terminated in wires on the other end.
--
Here is the Pin-out to make a USB to K2 Cable

Color - Signal - Notes
Yellow - RXD - Pin 2 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data In From K2
Orange - TXD - Pin 3 on 9 Pin Connector - RS-232 Data Out To K2
Black - Gnd - Pin 5 on 9 Pin Connector - Ground
Green - RTS - Tied to CTS Line
Brown - CTS - Tied to RTC Line
Red - Power - Unused - 0.0v
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Fredrick Cady SK

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Very sad news


On Friday, May 17, 2019, 9:19:14 PM EDT, Vic DiCiccio  
wrote:  
 
 I'm very sad to confirm Todd's post: Fredrick Cady, KE7X, emeritus 
professor of Electrical and Computer Engineering at Montana State 
University, died this morning in Denver.  The cause was heart failure 
and related complications. He was born May 2, 1942.  I'm sure Todd or I 
will post a fuller obituary or link when one is available.

Fred was my very dear friend and an important mentor for me. Working 
with him to write the Successful Ham book was a joy.  He helped so many 
people as a professor, author of his books, and in his role as a 
volunteer fireman, fire chief and deputy chief.  He will be deeply missed.

73
Vic VE3YT
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Re: [Elecraft] k3-10 & K3S-10

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Unless they changed it since I built mine I'm going to say No


On Thursday, May 9, 2019, 9:23:41 PM EDT,  wrote:  
 
 Do these radios have the fans built in that come with the 100W versions.
Thanks,
Dick, K5AND


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 - VHF/UHF

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 At one point I considered buying a second K3 and installingsmall transverters 
where the 100w PA would typically go.

I would like to see a matching box that had Transvertermodules that you could 
insert for the various bands.




On Monday, May 6, 2019, 4:21:27 PM EDT,  wrote:  
 
 Will there ever be a VHF/UHF radio? I'm sure because of the cost factor
there would a limitation. The interest would be the next question. Had to
ask...

Brian
K1DIH

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[Elecraft] P3 Power Monitor - Auto Scale ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Is there a way to make the power meter in the P3 auto scale like the W2 does?


Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S RIT Problem

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Is your REF CAL adjusted correctly?




On Wednesday, April 3, 2019, 8:48:58 PM EDT, John Stengrevics 
 wrote:  
 
 I seem to be reading signals about 800 Hz high. 

I have cleared RIT.  I suspect I have hit some other setting by mistake.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

73,

John
WA1EAZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Why are the batteries internal to the KX3?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 I've seen some external battery cases made for the KX3 on eBay that looked 
similar to what you described.



On Saturday, March 16, 2019, 6:52:11 PM EDT, hawley, charles j jr 
 wrote:  
 
 I don't like to disassemble the KX3 to take out the batteries when not using 
or to do battery maintenance.
I would rather have a slim case with the same rectangular outline as the KX3 
that attaches to the rear panel and just plugs into the KX3 thru the external 
DC input.
Has anyone done that as an accessory product?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 RF sensor cable

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Mine says Cat 5e on it and it. pinned out the same as an Ethernet LAN cable
So I will say Yes



On Friday, March 15, 2019, 6:15:56 PM EDT, Raymond  
wrote:  
 
 Is the cable between the sensor and P3 a standard cat 5 cable?
Ray
W8LYJ

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [EXTERNAL] Re: ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Yes that is the downside to it, so something to consider for those who may 
want that option.


On Tuesday, March 12, 2019, 11:03:46 AM EDT, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Henry,

Nice solution, but it considers only a connection to a PC.  If that is 
all you want, that is fine.

The KIO2 AUX I/O connector also contains internal K2 signals that are 
used for an externally mounted KPA100/KAT100 as well as the XVseries 
transverters.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/12/2019 10:50 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>  On my K2 I installed a USB Mini-B Female 5V DB9 interface in place of KIO2
> Part # DB9-USB-D5-F
> It's powered by the computer not the K2 so it draws no power from the K2
> 
> 
> 
> 
>      On Tuesday, March 12, 2019, 10:10:05 AM EDT, Pawlak, Daniel L 
> wrote:
>  
>  I just built the KIO2 and installed it with my KBT2 and KAT2 already in 
>place. It was a tight fit, but did not restrict the module or the cable. 
>Keeping it neat using cable ties is essential when you re-install the top 
>cover so that they do not get pinched or lay on top of the RF board. The 
>problem I did have was the cable from the KIO2 meeting at the AUX board. The 
>KIO2 cable was too long and stiff which resulted in it trying to twist the 
>board off the control board. Forming the KIO2 cable into an S-shape helped 
>reduce some of the twisting.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 9:09 PM
> To: Brian Denley ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in 
> place
> 
> Brian,
> 
> No problem with the KAT2 installed.  Ty-wrap the speaker cable to the
> KAT2 cable, but do not put any ty-wraps at the end of the battery.
> If the speaker wire has ty-wraps that fall at the end of the battery, cut 
> them off.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/11/2019 9:00 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
>> I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.
>>
>> Brian
>> KB1VBF
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
>>>
>>> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems 
>>> like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [EXTERNAL] Re: ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 On my K2 I installed a USB Mini-B Female 5V DB9 interface in place of KIO2
Part # DB9-USB-D5-F
It's powered by the computer not the K2 so it draws no power from the K2




On Tuesday, March 12, 2019, 10:10:05 AM EDT, Pawlak, Daniel L 
 wrote:  
 
 I just built the KIO2 and installed it with my KBT2 and KAT2 already in place. 
It was a tight fit, but did not restrict the module or the cable. Keeping it 
neat using cable ties is essential when you re-install the top cover so that 
they do not get pinched or lay on top of the RF board. The problem I did have 
was the cable from the KIO2 meeting at the AUX board. The KIO2 cable was too 
long and stiff which resulted in it trying to twist the board off the control 
board. Forming the KIO2 cable into an S-shape helped reduce some of the 
twisting.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 9:09 PM
To: Brian Denley ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in 
place

Brian,

No problem with the KAT2 installed.  Ty-wrap the speaker cable to the
KAT2 cable, but do not put any ty-wraps at the end of the battery.
If the speaker wire has ty-wraps that fall at the end of the battery, cut them 
off.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2019 9:00 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
> I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.
> 
> Brian
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
>>
>> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems 
>> like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Left ear / right ear or stereo

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 I remember hearing about that long ago and but had heard it wasthe Howard 
Hughes Aircraft company, so maybe they both worked on it.
Diversity receive may offer you more of what you are looking for.


On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 11:00:14 AM EST, Andy Durbin 
 wrote:  
 
 It seems to be common to refer to using one ear for main RX and the other ear 
for Sub RX as "Stereo".  I have experimented with listening to more than one 
radio using stereo headphones and found the experience far from satisfactory.  
My application was listening to Air Traffic Control and parachute demo ground 
coordinator with different ears.

Some time ago NASA did some research on presenting multiple radios in a true 
stereo "sound stage".  With suitable processing each receiver could be placed 
anywhere in that sound stage, not just in the left ear or in the right ear.  
The sound stage could also be used to place passengers in the appropriate place 
when they spoke on intercom.

I learned about this  project during a visit to Langley but have not heard if 
there was any commercial development of the idea.  Anyone know if there has 
been any commercial application either for aircraft radios or for amateur radio?

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] SWR meter with K3 2M module

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 I'm going to say no (at least it doesn't on mine)
The 2 meter antenna is not in line with the SWR circuity of the main radio.


On Sunday, March 3, 2019, 11:53:28 AM EST, Steve Zabarnick 
 wrote:  
 
 Is the SWR meter supposed to work when the 2 meter module is being used in
the K3? I don't see much of a response even with no antenna connected,
which should show a very high SWR.

Steve N9SZ
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3/0 Mini

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 Back when I was traveling a lot I considered getting the old style K3/0(the 
full size one)and building all of the remote hardware into it, so it would be 
all self contained in one box.


On Thursday, February 28, 2019, 9:12:51 AM EST, Jorge Diez - CX6VM 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello

any idea if will be a new control radio for remote? Like K3/0 Mini with
remoterig integrated inside it?

Maybe for Dayton will have it?

-- 
73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W
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[Elecraft] P3 Hub Support?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Does the P3 have (or are there plans to add) support for a USB hub on the P3?
This would be very handy for those who want to have a Keypad and a Keyboard 
connected to the P3.

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Re: [Elecraft] KEYBOARD

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

 I use a 64 key Genovation Keypad via serial and not via the P3, That way the 
P3 can have a keyboard plugged into it.
At one time I saw where somone had used a raspberry Pi to make a interface to 
go between two keyboarddevices and the P3 but I haven't found it again (that 
seems the best way to do it)


On Saturday, February 16, 2019, 7:06:03 AM EST, Dave Cole (NK7Z) 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Bob,

On a related subject, but not quite what you asked about, if you are 
just looking for a way to fire off macros at the K3, and have the SVGA 
for the P3, see:

https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

This is a way to use a 64 key Genovation keypad to fire off complex 
macros to the K3/P3, using a single keypress, from a dedicated pad, as 
opposed to having to type in macros, or triggers to the K3/P3 radio 
complex via a keyboard.

An example of what can be done would be the "Offset +" macro-- I press a 
single button on the Genovation keypad, and the Radio drops into split, 
the P3 shifts the CW signal to the left side of the display, while 
setting the bandwidth for the P3 to 6 KHz., to show the top part of the 
pile up, and then sets the K3 bandwidth to whatever I have set in the 
macro, all with a single button press.

I currently have 32 macros programmed up, some for power level setting, 
switching VFOs, triggering the K3 memories in CW or Voice, setting K3 
bandwidths, contest exchanges, IDs, etc.

There is a spread sheet of macros you can download for use within the 
Genovation setup at that URL as well.  I seldom even touch the K3 now, 
but to tune, or turn it on, or off.  Most of my K3/P3 operations comes 
from the Genovation keypad.

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
Award Manager, 30MDG Grid Awards
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL OOC for Oregon

On 2/15/19 6:53 PM, Bob Gibson via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm looking for the recommend keyboard to plug into the back of the P3 that 
> works! I looking for a mini keyboard..The one I have does not work..
> 
> 
> Thanks Bob
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[Elecraft] List overload - It's actually not good for Elecraft's business.

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The list is pretty much turning into a captive audience for some tohawk their 
wares and for others it has become a bit of a soap boxdroning on about off 
topic subjects for far longer than they need to be.
It's one thing to post a short for sale and respond off list for a personal 
sale.
But some selling commercially are using this list as a captive audience.
(I tend to view them pretty much the same as I do any other spammer.)
What has happened with me before (and about to do the same) is I just 
unsubscribefrom the list completely and only very occasionally visit the 
Elecraft web page.
Sadly that inadvertently turns into me just taking my business elsewhere.
When I'm looking for a project or a new toy Elecraft falls into being
just one more face in the crowd instead of being at the top of the list.
So I wind up spending my money elsewhere and then when I finallydo look at 
Elecrafts page and see a new toy I don't buy it becauseI've already gotten a 
new toy from another vendor.

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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

You have my sympathies for your loss, I can only imagine what you are going 
through.I'm not sure if you're a praying man or not but I'll add you to my 
prayer list.

Fire is scary and moves very fast in a home. We had a small fire caused by a 
defectivelamp in my wife's sewing room; in less than five minutes it did 
thousands in damage.
I'm a bit Leary of Lithium batteries it's a lot of energy packed into a small 
area.
Again you have my sympathies, I'll be praying for you and yours.


  From: William Lagerberg 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 5:32 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion
   
Guys,

I want to give you a advice, my shack it (was) in the basement (cellar??) I do 
all my thing for the hobby there.
A collega of mine asked me to take a look at two Go-Pro LI-Ion accu's because 
they where not loading anymore.

So I put the first one on the loader for 8 till 9 hours and checked it and it 
was ok  ( with 10% loading current)
Then I dit put the second one in same place at 10 in the morning at 3 my 
daughter called me there is a fire.
We rusted to the cellar but I could not enter it was filled with dark smoke.

My shack is gone and 90 % off my house, I have insurance don’t now if it is 
enough to cover all of my Elecraft stuff

My K1, my own build K2 my K3  and my KX3 are gone, I found my K1 in 20 cm off 
water really down under, I clean’t it with fresh water.
After that flushed it with pure alcohol. It is completely taken apart today as 
far as is possible.
I Hope it will survive I will let it dry for a lot of day’s

My K2 is melted the same as my P3 and my K3 perhaps I can order the outside of 
both, but a am still not allowed to enter the basement so I don’t know how it 
looks at the inside.

So finale the message is please take care with li-ion accuse battery’s. It did 
cost me our house in 1 hour.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] mW TX for WSPR

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I use a Mini-Circuits ZSC-2-2+ as a splitter for my RX antenna
Per it's specs it looks to be rated at 1 watt

  From: "donov...@starpower.net" 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 12:50 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] mW TX for WSPR
   
The DX Engineering Magic-T combiner should work fine. 
Just be sure you don't too much power into it! Much less than 
one watt. 


The dual receive feature of DXplorer should do the trick for you. 


Same polarization antennas produce almost immediate good 
performance evaluation results. Evaluating the performance of 
antennas with different polarizations might take some effort. 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] New command for K3 macro and K-Pod users: Delay (DE)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

That is fantastic news, that command will come in quite handy.

Thank you





 Original message 
From: Wayne Burdick  
Date: 2017-05-15  11:01 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: [Elecraft] New command for K3 macro and K-Pod users: Delay (DE) 

The latest K3 field test firmware (rev. 5.60) includes a new command, DE 
(delay), that should be especially useful in switch/K-Pod macros. There are 
times when it’s desirable to pace certain commands, e.g. during band change and 
message send.

The format of the DE command is:

   DEnnn;

where  can be 001-255. This value is the time in 10 ms increments, so the 
delay can be 10-2550 ms. 

NOTE: DE001 will cause a delay that can be shorter than 10 ms, due to the way 
timers are handled, so I’d recommend using at least DE002, which will be 
guaranteed to provide a 10-20 ms delay.

As an example, this [useless but instructive] macro moves the VFO up four tics 
total, at a rate of one tic per second:

   UP;DE100;UP;DE100;UP;DE100;UP;DE100;

DE command delay is handled in the background, so it only suspends execution of 
control command processing. There’s no impact on normal radio operation. It 
also won’t affect the P3, which has its own private dialog with the radio.

This new command is included in rev. 5.60, which also fixes a bug that resulted 
in an occasional lost K-Pod/switch macro command.

If you’d like to try the new field test firmware, please email me. If you’ve 
already requested this in the past couple of days, don’t worry; I’ll be sending 
it to the first batch requesters in a few minutes.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

 

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[Elecraft] Tube Rig with KPA500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

And now for something completely different.
I was curious if anyone out there has used their tube radios with the KPA500?
I've used Tube amps with SS radios but never tube rigs with an SS amp.

I would assume you just tune up onto a dummy load then put the amp in line.

Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 I/Q - was Elecraft's source code

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I built up a little SoftRock SDR receiver for the IF Output of my K3 from 
Five-Dash.I put it in a little die cast mini-box with a buffer amp and some 
isolation transformers.
As I recall the kit was about $21 and a buck or so for the extra crystal for 
the K3's IF.

I have another one here waiting to be built up for my K2... It's still waiting 
because my FiFi-SDR works quite well doing the same thing and has the sound 
card built in.





  From: Dave Cole 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2017 2:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code
   
I would LOVE an I/Q port on my K3!

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net


   
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[Elecraft] K2/K3 AB Test (Unscientific)

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I was just playing around doing some A/B test between my recently built K2 
andmy K3 using the same antenna and the same speakers (Elecraft SP3 Speakers)
I really didn't notice much of difference in signal strength between the two 
radios.I dialed the K3's bandwidth down to 2.4 kHz and found they sounded very 
similar.
The K2 may not have all the bells and whistles but it's still an impressive 
little radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Sadly there are a fair number of people who would screw up their K3 radios and 
than expect Elecraft to fix them.
On my little mcHF radio I bought it realizing that if I screw it up, then it's 
up to me to fix it and not blame the manufacturer.








  From: "Ingo Meyer, DK3RED" 
 To: Elecraft  
 Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 1:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code
   
Hello Harry,


> Elecraft is in a bit of a Catch 22 because yes with open source they could 
> get the benefits from it
> But it could also equate to more "warranty" work for Elecraft when someone 
> messes up their radio.

I think this is the main reason to "close" the source code. I have seen the 
problem with 
open source on SDR software. Anyone who thinks he could also program or could 
better 
program modify the open source code and spread it. Who uses the modified code 
and finds an 
error with his transceiver/computer, turns to the manufacturer of the hardware 
and not the 
manufacturer of the software.
I like my Elecraft rigs (with the closed source). The developer team tested it 
and I can 
use it without jamming anywhere. Requests flow into the software after weighing.


73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's source code

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have a mmcHF SDR QRP radio where the firmware is Open Source.

In the beginning the original developer of the radio had his firmware and 
worked on it then
another basically took over for him and now there is a group of developers 
working on the code.

You can load the original firmware, or the latest, or even load up the daily 
build to be on very edge.

Open source tends to allows a much larger pool of talent to look at the code 
and enhance it.
Additionally bug fixes also tend to get fixed a bit quicker since you have a 
number of eyes
looking at the code and that tends to allows the spotting of a solution quicker.

But as others have stated, Elecraft's code is Closed Source. I can understand 
them keeping it closed
source because the radio is basically a consumer product with not a lot of room 
for experimentation.

Elecraft is in a bit of a Catch 22 because yes with open source they could get 
the benefits from it
But it could also equate to more "warranty" work for Elecraft when someone 
messes up their radio.

I have a K3 for my "Nice Radio" and then I have other radios that I mod and 
play with.
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[Elecraft] OT - Gaffers Tape

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

In applications where I don't want to leave any tape residue, instead of duct 
tape I use gaffers tape.
It's something I use in photography but it's finding a place in my radio bag.
It holds about the same as duct tape but is easier to rip into strips and 
leaves less if any residue.
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Re: [Elecraft] GPS Disciplined 10MHZ source from China

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Mine is from G3RUH http://www.jrmiller.demon.co.uk/projects/ministd/frqstd.htm

he states: The stability as given by the Allan Deviation is typically 5x10-12 
at τ=10s.
That figure is 0.05 Hz at 10 GHz and is a remarkably small value.


Using mine as a example I would say the one you have is way off.

I'm not sure what you are using for an Antenna, I'm using an external GPS 
Timing Antenna



From: Jay Miller 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 6:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] GPS Disciplined 10MHZ source from China



I was curious so I bought a GPS disciplined 10MHz source from China using

the eBay seller "cybereveryday."  I have a calibrated scope and a Rubidium

10MHz source. I noticed a frequency offset on three of the WWV frequencies

when I plugged it into the K3 XREF module after getting "GPS Lock" rather

than using my Rubidium lamp standard  I measured the 10MHz output from the

GPSDO and it is 10,000,025 Hz. (2.5 PPM) The eBay ad states "Accuracy: than

above OXCO 2 order of magnitude."  The point is, even using the K3 zero-beat

method with 15 MHz WWV I can get closer to being dead on frequency than

using this Chinese mfg. GPSDO. Again, Elecraft quality and engineering WINS.




Jay Miller, N4NUI



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Re: [Elecraft] kxusb question

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I worked with the Icom CI-V interface years ago when I was building frequency 
agile remote bases

The CI-V is TTL  (5 volts),


While I have not put an Elecraft KXUSB on a scppe to look at the signal levels 
I'm gong to say No.
My logic is that the Elecraft May be able to use TTL, The Elecraft Will use 
RS-232 Levels

If you look at the Elecraft W2 Manual it shows how to wire an interface that 
goes directly to the DB-9 Pins
(I'm using the W2 here because it's easy to see what is going on) upon looking 
at the schematic for the W2
you can see how they are level converting from Serial levels to TTL Levels.

In short Elecraft builds the Level converter into the gear Icom does Not.
Additionally Icom ties the TX lines together.









From: barry whittemore 
To: Elecraft  
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 8:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] kxusb question



I have a KXUSB and was wondering if i can use it with an ICOM 706. I am going 
to do a trip with the 706 for the June VHF contest and think it is basically 
the same except that it has a stereo plug and the 706 is mono. is the ring in 
the KXUSB used? I do not wish to damage either thing.


Thanks


Barry


NF1O

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Re: [Elecraft] Excess K3 boards

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Those caps as I recall are .1uf they can come in handy to have around




 Original message 
From: "Dauer, Edward"  
Date: 2017-05-05  10:49 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Excess K3 boards 

The KIO3 and KXV3 boards have been spoken for – several times over, in fact.

No requests yet for the old synths.  They have to be useful for something.  
Skeet shooting, maybe?

The PR 6-10 is still open for offers (see original post below), and the 
itsy-bitsy SMD caps are still available gratis, assuming I can find them among 
the other molecules in the packaging they came in.  Have I mentioned that they 
are very small?

Ted, KN1CBR

    --
    
    Message: 20
    Date: Fri, 5 May 2017 22:59:27 +
    From: "Dauer, Edward" 
    To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
    Subject: [Elecraft] Excess K3 Boards
    Message-ID:
    

    
    Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
    
    Having just upgraded my K3 (s/n 76XX) with the new KXV3B and KIO3B boards, 
I have the old boards and some other things that I no longer need.
    
    The original KXV3 and KIO3 boards are free to a good home.  However, please 
don't ask for them if the result would be to move them from my spare parts box 
to yours.  I would like them, or either of them, to go to someone who needs and 
would actually use them.  They worked perfectly since new.  I am pretty sure 
they were not injured during removal, but at the price of zero I am making no 
warranty.
    
    I also still have two of the original synths, though as I understand the 
supply (huge) and the demand (none), these will go gratis to the first person 
who could use a couple of drink coasters.
    
    I also have the outboard PR6-10, which is not gratis.  Best offer by next 
Wednesday at 6:00 MDT takes it, CONUS shipping paid.  Personal check only, no 
Paypal.  This will ship with two male-male BNC connectors which allow it to be 
attached to the K3 with no cables other than the power supply and control line.
    
    Finally, I have one or two of the SMD capacitors left from the upgrade of 
KBPF3.  Three are required for the mod, four are supplied with each mod kit.  
Perhaps presciently, I ordered two mod kits knowing that I would lose at least 
two of the little buggers.  So I started with 8; three made it onto the board; 
two remain in the bag.  That means three disappeared into the dust somewhere.  
In any case, anyone who is contemplating this mod might value having a couple 
of extras if their SMD skills are equal to mine (that is to say, completely 
absent.)  These also are no cost to the taker - with the same request as above. 
 I will send them in an envelope many orders of magnitude larger than the parts.
    
    For all but the PR6-10, first in time is first in right. 
    
    Please reply off-list.  Thanks,
    
    Ted, KN1CBR
    
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Use for old KSYN3 boards

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

As I recall there is also a shielded toroid on them similar to the sheilded one 
for the K2.
Plus tmp connectors that can come in handy.






 Original message 
From: James Wilson  
Date: 2017-05-05  10:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Elecraft  
Subject: [Elecraft] Use for old KSYN3 boards 

While there is no market for the old Synth. boards,
they are full of tiny suface mounted parts. Excellent
place to practice removing and replacing some
of them.

You can't hurt it. Try your hand. You may be surprised
at how easily it can be done. (Even for these
89 year old hands and eyes.)   :-)

Jim - W4RKS
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Re: [Elecraft] not bashing a product just a warning to future purchasers.

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I also have purchased one of their kits and was pleased with it in both quality 
and instructions.
I found no problems at all with the quality and I plan to purchase more from 
them.




  From: KC6CNN 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 9:06 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] not bashing a product just a warning to future purchasers.
   
I know that Elecraft does not want people bashing other companies products
and I in no way want to bash them. I do however want to warn other kit
builder and kit lovers to please use caution when ordering any kit from
QRP-LABS. First it ships from Japan, second the products are so poorly made
that the part leads bend when holding the part up by the end of the lead. 
The design was difficult and instructions are very crude. 
They are Cheap in price lol but also cheap in quality . 

Thanks hope this helps someone save their money. 

Gerald KC6CNN





-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K1 # 0014
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757

   
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Re: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

At one point I considered taking a K3/10 and installing Transverters where the 
PA deck would go.



  From: Bill Johnson 
 To: Phil Hystad ; Elecraft  
 Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 7:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List
   
Phil,

Wayne and Eric are smart dudes, for sure.  I don't know that they are into VHF, 
UHF to the degree needed to do what you ask.  They do have a team of engineers, 
also very bright and HAM interested, so the request may eventually take hold.  
I would love a K2 or K3 style platform for VHF, UHF based on the Elecraft 
design features to include features such as full duplex, etc.  I don't know 
what the market for such equipment might be, but they might wish to respond to 
our interest?!  I would enjoy such equipment and they could allow space for 
modules to be added which would include even higher freq stuff for those who 
wanted it. 

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ, FT’er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc. 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 12:36 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List

I was planning to ask a question about the 2-meter option board for K3/K3S but 
thought to ask this question instead.

Has there ever been interest (by others of this forum) or discussion from Wayne 
& Eric about a new radio, one specifically dedicated to VHF and UHF with 
satellite comms (Doppler) and other features.  I am thinking of possibly a 
three band radio but at least two (2 meter, 70 cm) and optionally 1240-1300 
MHz.  All mode of course!  10 to 15 watts output would be all that is necessary 
(IMO).

There are other radios on the market but they all have one thing in common as 
far as I know — they are HF+VHF/UHF such as the Icom 9100 for example.  I am 
hoping that removing the HF support and the larger amplifier needs would make 
for a cheaper radio (even from Elecraft).

73, phil, K7PEH
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

thank you

  From: Ken K6MR <k...@outlook.com>
 To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com> 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 3:36 PM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?
   
#yiv7475533399 #yiv7475533399 -- _filtered #yiv7475533399 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7475533399 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
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“Aux” cable is about 25 feet long. It’s just a CAT5 cable wired appropriately.  
Works fine.   Ken K6MR   From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 9:38 AM
To: Michael Walker
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?   Thank you
The USB cable will be under 15 feet as the room I'm moving it to a finished 
storeroom inmy basement is directly below me. I could run serial but the USB 
makes for a easier install.
One advantage of the move will be easy access to run a new 220 to that room
The one thing I forgot about is the 15 pin aux cable but at that length it will 
probably be OK.


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Thank you
The USB cable will be under 15 feet as the room I'm moving it to a finished 
storeroom inmy basement is directly below me. I could run serial but the USB 
makes for a easier install.
One advantage of the move will be easy access to run a new 220 to that room
The one thing I forgot about is the 15 pin aux cable but at that length it will 
probably be OK.





  From: Michael Walker 
 To: Harry Yingst  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 8:06 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?
   
Hi Harry
You have 2 ways to do this and extending USB is not the best choice if it would 
work at all.  
Depending on how far the run is, it might be able to do it via RS232 (from your 
USB connector) direct into back of devices.  While the spec for RS232 is about 
20ft or less, I currently run RS232 over 120' at 9600 baud.  That is fast 
enough for these devices.  You don't need to go to 38,400 baud as that will 
limit your cable length. 
This is what I do on my remote base for my Steppir and Rotator control and the 
tower is 120ft away from the computers.  I don't use any tuners, as that is one 
less thing to worry about.  None of my equipment is heated and I have seen it 
work down to -30C without issue.
Your other option is to run a LAN cable and use RS232 over IP adapters such as 
https://www.amazon.com/USR-TCP232-306-Serial-Ethernet-Converter-RS232/dp/B01MXWACF3/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8=1493985728=8-8=rs232+lan.
  The guys are RS485.com have some cool stuff as well.  www.rs485.com
You run some software in your computer that will run the Elecraft software.  
From Elecrafts perspective, it looks like a normal serial port.  On the other 
end the KPA500 plugs into the device above.
One last option is to use RS422 boxes that extend RS232 for miles.  
Don't forget, you will need good AC power installed.  If you can, I would 
recommend using 220V and not 115V as that will limit your voltage drop.
I hope that helps
Mike va3mw




   
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Re: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Thank you
The USB cable will be under 15 feet as I'm basically planning to put it into a 
finished storeroom in my basement



  From: Ken K6MR <k...@outlook.com>
 To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 1:47 AM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?
   
#yiv5655345728 #yiv5655345728 -- _filtered #yiv5655345728 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5655345728 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
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1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv5655345728 div.yiv5655345728WordSection1 {}#yiv5655345728 One 
thing to watch is the length of the USB cable. Over about 15 feet or so (I 
believe the spec is 5 meters) you’ll need an active repeater cable or some 
alternate connection method. I use an Ethernet to serial port server with a 
fiber link between the desk and the closet. Two KPAs and two KATs.    Ken K6MR  
 From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 8:02 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?   More and more I'm 
considering remoting my KPA500 out of the shack,mostly becuse of the heat and 
secondly because of the fan noise.
In doing so it would proably make sense to move the KAT500 along with it.
Then it would be a matter of routing  one coax from the K3 to th amp, and a USB 
cable with a hub for the two usb to serial adapters for the amp and tuner to 
plug into.
I already use the control programs to oprrate the amp andtjner and rarely touch 
them.

I figured I'd ask first, since I'm pretty sure others have done this and could 
let me know if there is anything I should watch out for.

Thank you 

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[Elecraft] Remoting the KPA500 & KAT500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

More and more I'm considering remoting my KPA500 out of the shack,mostly becuse 
of the heat and secondly because of the fan noise.
In doing so it would proably make sense to move the KAT500 along with it.
Then it would be a matter of routing  one coax from the K3 to th amp, and a USB 
cable with a hub for the two usb to serial adapters for the amp and tuner to 
plug into.
I already use the control programs to oprrate the amp andtjner and rarely touch 
them.

I figured I'd ask first, since I'm pretty sure others have done this and could 
let me know if there is anything I should watch out for.

Thank you 

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Re: [Elecraft] Hello All

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Welcome
It's more fun to take your time, My 1st K2 I build in two weeks, the second one 
I took two months and had more fun.



  From: Thom 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 9:37 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Hello All
   
I am new to the list.  I have been reading the mail for the past few days.

I am not new to Elecraft Kits.  I built my first K2 back in 2005.  Since 
then I have built 6 of them for various friends.

Sold my personal K2 in 2009 because I got real sick.

Build another one last year but it turned into a nightmare.  My brain 
was not functioning well back then and the radio ended up scrapped. The 
rest went in the trash.

Anyway I have a K1 on order that should have been shipped today. Might 
take me a couple weeks to build it.  I am going to take it nice and slow.

thanks for reading.

73

Thom KI8W



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Re: [Elecraft] Should we expect something new in Dayton?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Surface mount actually is pretty easy once you do it a few times.

In some cases it can actually be easier, there is none of the having to reform 
leads on components

like when you are provided a 2.5mm lead spaced part to go in holes 5mm apart 
etc.

All I use is my regular iron with a fine point tip some .5mm (.020") solder and 
a magnifying visor.



It's just like going from the old point to point with tubes to PC boards and 
ICs, not harder just different.

I think a lot of people are afraid to try it, but once yo uget the hand of 
doing it you will find it's almost easier.








From: Brian Denley <b.den...@comcast.net>
To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com> 
Cc: Tom branton <kf5...@yahoo.com>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Should we expect something new in Dayton?



Agreed.  While I understand surface mount components have made kits harder to 
support, building the K2 was some of the most fun I have had in ham radio.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad


> On May 2, 2017, at 8:11 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft 
> <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> 
> Hopefully it's some more Kits
> 
> What first brought me to Elecraft was it being a Kit, but lately it seems 
> more and more of it has become Non-Kits
> 
>  From: Tom branton via Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 7:10 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Should we expect something new in Dayton?
> 
> Any thoughts on new Elecraft equipment being introduced at Dayton?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> __
> 
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPOD toggle macros?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The problem with that is if you hold the button too long you mess up the macro.

Sadly the K-Pod appears to not be quite yet finished



  From: "Cady, Fred" 
 To: Jim Miller ; Harry Yingst ; 
Elecraft list  
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 7:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPOD toggle macros?
   
#yiv6913377253 #yiv6913377253 -- P 
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv6913377253 A work around is to make the two 
macros as you do now (chaining one to the other), assign them to two macro 
positions in the K3 and then assign them to one of the programmable function 
keys (like you do now).  Then, assign another of the K3 macros to tap or hold 
the function key (I know, there goes another macro position) and then use the 
KPOD associated with that macro to activate it.  So you have to use 3 K3 macros 
instead of 2.

Again, the term KPOD macro is a misnomer.  There aren't any macros in the KPOD, 
just the ability to use the KPOD switches to execute the K3 macros associated 
with that switch.
 
Cheers,Fred KE7X

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Should we expect something new in Dayton?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Hopefully it's some more Kits

What first brought me to Elecraft was it being a Kit, but lately it seems more 
and more of it has become Non-Kits

  From: Tom branton via Elecraft 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 7:10 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Should we expect something new in Dayton?
   
Any thoughts on new Elecraft equipment being introduced at Dayton?


Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] KPOD toggle macros?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I'm still waiting for the same thing, I think a part of it is that the k3 does 
not haveenough macros as each one of the 16 are already assigned to the KPOD 
buttons.




  From: Jim Miller 
 To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 5:34 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPOD toggle macros?
   
I'm finally back to working with my KPOD and some macros. 

Has anyone figured out how to do a toggle similar to what can be done on the K3 
front panel?

I have a toggle on the K3 for doing my split up1 sequence and a second 
activation turns it all off. 

I'm looking to toggle DIGOUT1 which will switch between my vertical and an 
inverted V. 

A second one will be used to drive an aux out on the KPOD which will toggle my 
RX array direction. 

73

Jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] K2 Low Battery Voltage Cutout Circuit?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have the internal SLA battery for my K2 and would like to add a Low Battery 
Voltage Cutout Circuit.

Has anyone already done this and if so what did you use (AKA I'm trying to not 
reinvent the wheel)

I'm basically looking for something that is small and  RF quiet since I want to 
mount it inside the K2.


Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I certainly would like to see that.
This list has way too much off topic, and real questions get lost in the fog of 
it all.


  From: Michael Walker 
 To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 8:10 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group
   
Hi All

I am thinking of starting an Elecraft email forum that would focus only on
Elecraft equipment.

While I like this list for the Elecraft discussions, about 50% of it is
related to off topic items and they flood my inbox with hundreds of emails.

How many of you would be interested?

73 all, Mike va3mw

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

28.400  is within the 10 meter band and your K3 should work just fine there 
(Mine does)
That being said 28.4 may not be your best choice as it tends to be a calling 
frequency of sorts and even though they may not hear you you may hear them

  From: KG7FYI 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 12:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500
   
Thanks for all the input.
I hope you aren't getting the impression that I am preparing to be a loose
cannon. We regularly carry on sets in anticipation of the type of
emergencies the State is preparing for. Nonetheless my desire is to have as
many options as possible available for our small community. We have been
submitting grant proposals to upgrade our 2M equipment to be better
integrated into the ARES net system here. On the other hand our ARES usually
also does check ins on 28.400 MHZ which is not open on my K3. Not reasonable
at all, hence my hope to scale things up. Our ARES group has done ARES/RACES
certification to qualify for participation. I'll touch in with our club to
see where we are regarding our RACES commitment. In the mean time also I'll
make contact on my own. Thanks.



   
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Enhancement

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I had bad the suggestion for a switch box that would allow using the kpa1500 or 
the kpa500 with multiple radios a few days ago.
Hopefuly they are looking into pooducing one.
I have one I built but would prefer one the had the aux data switching in it.



 Original message 
From: Matthew Cook  
Date: 2017-04-26  8:44 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Thomas Donohue  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Enhancement 

If that were to happen then adding a second 15-way connector at the same
time to said module to allow two K3/K3s to drive the one amp through each
respective antenna input and matched output would start this amp towards
the "basic" SO2R path.  From there a smart 2x6 antenna switching unit some
well designed BPF filters and your well on your way.  The rest of the magic
is then just firmware (says he that writes said firmware every day) within
the upgraded processor the KPA1500 has been blessed with.

I'm fingers crossed..

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 26 April 2017 at 22:37, Thomas Donohue  wrote:

> Hi to all:
>
> Wayne or Eric. Are there any plans or thoughts about adding a second RF
> input to the amp, similar to what the Yaesu VL-1000 has?
>
> Best 73,
> Tom/W1QU
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale, unbuilt K2 with many options

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I also was going to suggest finding someone to complete if for him.
I just finished building a loaded K2 a couple weeks ago and If I had more time 
I'd offer to build it for free just for the fun of it.
Chances are someone out there may be looking for the fun of building a K2 Kit

  From: Kevin Cozens 
 To: K2  
 Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 5:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] For Sale, unbuilt K2 with many options
   
On 2017-04-26 02:14 PM, Ken Allen via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm embarrassed to admit that I purchased my K2 kit, #5534, at Hamvention
> in 2006 and it is still not completed.
[snip]
> After I retired two years later, I picked up the kit again only to
> realize tremors in my hands would not allow me to do the soldering any
> longer.

Getting old is a pain when it means we can no longer do some of the things 
we love to do. The price you are asking for the set of K2 items would mean 
you are taking quite a loss on the items you had bought.

One option to consider is to find someone you know and can trust to do the 
soldering work for you. You can do the final assembly and alignment. At 
least you will the satisfaction of having done some work on the K2 even if 
it wasn't the soldering of parts that you originally expected to be doing. 
You will also wind up with a nice radio that you can use on the air.

-- 
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/           |"Nerds make the shiny things that distract
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172      | the mouth-breathers, and that's why we're
                                | powerful!"
#include  |            --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

It makes little sense to make a signature with a call sign when most
people outside of amateur radio would have no idea what it is?

There is no need for a signature when the name is already in the sent field.


If it matters then simply send a polite e-mail asking the person what their 
call is.
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[Elecraft] New Product Idea - Rig Switchbox

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I would like to see a switch box that would allow connecting multiple Radios to 
the KPA X series of Elecraft amplifiers.


I have built up something here using coaxial relays to allow switching between 
my K3 and K2
into my KPA500 & KAT500 with the non active radio being terminated into a dummy 
load.

What would be better is a switchbox that also switches the ACC line, Key line 
etc. Preferably one
that would work with any combination of the K3, K3S, KX3, KX2, K2, and even 
non- Elecraft radios.
(I would also say one that switches at least 3 radios into the amplifier)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

It appears to be the larger (75 amp?) size



  From: Ken G Kopp 
 To: Elecraft  
 Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:57 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR
   
Perhaps I'm missing it somewhere in the literature ...

Is the APP connector on the rear of the KPA1500 in some way different from
the 12v APP connector on the rear of the K3?  Size maybe?

Surely they can't be accidentally interchanged? Elecraft simply wouldn't
make such an error.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Another Idea would be to cut some thin (1/2") spacers out of wood that would 
set in the desktop between the gear to separate it.
I run into the same issue as you since some of the gear does not have handles 
and feet on the sides (speakers, tuner, P3 etc)and  in the past I also had a 
piece of gear get a scratch on it, luckily it was on a piece I made so I could 
repaint it to match.




  From: Erik Basilier 
 To: 'Clay Autery' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 12:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet
   
Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
:-)"

Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might be
desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of a K-line
are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you go to a 2-radio
configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most often looked at, or
touched, front panels close together in the middle. The quick pace of SO2R
operations really demands the very best ergonomics that you can achieve. I
currently have the two transceivers in the middle for easy access to the
knobs, with the P3's immediately to the right and left of the two radios.
That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to scratch
the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it could have been a
speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two transceivers
side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the left-hand radio are
positioned next to the handle of the right-hand radio, but they are thinner
than the handle, and there is the potential for the handle to scratch the
left-hand radio in spite of the feet. 

I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio configurations,
but some may have their own reasons for placing their boxes in a unique
order. It seems to me that the handles could be redesigned so as to have no
sharp edges that can cause scratches, or even better, redesigned so at to
incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the standard side panel feet could be made
slightly thicker (i.e. thicker than the handles) , and/or available as
add-on options for those who don't use the standard box ordering. Just an
idea, and I am not holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with
removable stick-on feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better
quality ones suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear
to me that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap
rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful removing it
with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly dull. That was on
a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it the high quality Elecraft
paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be better, but I think the
dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the inferior paint, not the
alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol did not become dull. 

Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. My
comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It was not
intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so close to so many
of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, including my own. I
really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that the price is reasonable
for what it is. For me it is not immediately affordable, but that is a
separate issue. Maybe one day 

73,
Erik K7TV




   
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Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I put little stick on feet where two peices of gear may touch





 Original message 
From: Erik Basilier  
Date: 2017-04-21  10:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Nr4c' , 'Clay Autery'  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp 

As the number of Elecraft boxes on my shelf has grown, what I have long
feared has recently happened: The handle on one box (or probably a screw on
the handle) created a small scratch on the nude side of neighboring box. It
looks like the KPA1500 handle design is unchanged. Maybe it is time for an
upgrade of the handle design, or maybe we could use a kit of add-on feet or
spacers?

73,
Erik K7TV

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:44 PM
To: Clay Autery 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

It's for carrying and the little feet keep the case from getting scratched. 

There's no space or - in Elecraft products.  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:35 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Cannot wait to get a look inside
> 
> There IS a handle on the left side (as you look at it).  I don't know 
> if the small feet on the right side are for vertical orientation or to 
> prevent the total blockage of the vents if shoved up next to another 
> K-line product OR the power supply box...
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> 

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[Elecraft] How loud are the Fans on the KPA1500?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I was curious how load the fans are on the KPA1500?
Are they as loud as the fan on the KPA500?

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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have never used one but knew someone who did, he basically said a end fed 
wire out performed it.



  From: Eddy Avila 
 To: Elecraft  
 Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 9:36 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop
   
Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF magnetic 
loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your opinion about 
them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running qRP.


Thanks all,


73


ed
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Admittedly I'm the guy who looks at my jeep and realize I paid more for it than
I did for my 1st house and I still expect to see sneakers costing less than $20.


It first glance the price for the KPA1500 does seem high, but when you stop and
really think about it you realize that it's a fair price for what you are 
getting.

Do I see myself getting one... Not right away, but possibly in the future.









From: Hunter Ellington 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500



Well, I was never advocating for an Elecraft legal limit amp, so I

don't have a dog in this fight, but at $6K, it takes the amp out of

the hobby category. I know things are expensive today, but this price

point will be very self limiting.  Good luck and I hope you sell a lot

of them..


Hunter Ellington, K0GFY

Sent using Hushmail
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 feature added to KPA500

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

It already does that



  From: Marvin Wheeler 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 8:05 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 feature added to KPA500
   
 

Somewhere reading the information about the new KPA1500 I read that if the
new amp was powered on it would cause the K3/K3S to automatically lower to
drive the amp. Can or will this feature be added to the KPA500? I would be a
welcome addition in my opinion.

 

Marv - KG7V



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Reef Aquariums can also get expensive
and in that hobby only bad things happen fast



  From: Rick WA6NHC 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500
   
Or photography... one lens costs $4000 by itself (and has maintained 
that value for ten years)... or travel, limited only by the current 
state of the wallet; the RV alone (without the tow vehicle) is worth 
double the cost of all my ham gear combined (and I have most of the K 
line with features plus other stuff), the tow vehicle is double that...

That being said, a proper station antenna system is (should be) well 
above this price point... look at the current cost of new towers 
($12-17k) before adding antennas ($1.2-5k)...

In the whole scheme of things... this is a bump, not an impediment for 
building up a serious station.  If it is something you truly want to do 
and you're going to 'do it right', you'll figure out how to get it 
done.  Are there cheaper options?  Sure, but what is the hidden cost; 
things like integration, simplicity of use (NEVER underrate that) and 
reliability factor in?

The older I get, the more I value simplicity.  Being fully integrated to 
me means, click to QSY then everything is done, make the call and is 
worth some initial 'trouble' (setup, programming, maintenance) and expense.

Will I ever build an ICBM (bigger than big gun) station?  Nope, but I 
can use what I have to make the best I can.  And THAT is some of the 
best fun you can get in ham radio, even if all you can aspire to is 
being a loud pop gun.

Rick nhc

   
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Re: [Elecraft] The K2 sure is a nice sounding radio

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I built a k2 years ago and sold it off as I was moving to help with the care of 
my elderly father.
I had forgotten how nice the K2 sounds





  From: Eric J <eric_c...@hotmail.com>
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 9:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The K2 sure is a nice sounding radio
   
I only operate CW, but I've always thought the K2 was a very pleasant radio to 
listen to. I have one with DSP and one with the AF filter and I prefer the 
sound of the AF filter too. I've tried a couple of separate speakers, but still 
prefer the internal speaker for some reason. There aren't a lot of radios that 
have aged as well as the K2. It's the definition of "classic".  But then, what 
do I know? I still think my Drake 2B is a pleasure to listen to.

Eric

KE6US

On 4/20/2017 6:07 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:



A few months ago I was itching for a big kit build so I picked up a K2 (I 
needed a winter project)
I took my time building it and adding in as many options as I could fit along 
with some mods.

I'm sitting here listening to it and I was thinking it sure is a nice sounding 
radio; while it may

not sound as full as the K3 (the K3 has wider filters) but the K2's audio is 
nice and clear.
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[Elecraft] The K2 sure is a nice sounding radio

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

A few months ago I was itching for a big kit build so I picked up a K2 (I 
needed a winter project)
I took my time building it and adding in as many options as I could fit along 
with some mods.

I'm sitting here listening to it and I was thinking it sure is a nice sounding 
radio; while it may

not sound as full as the K3 (the K3 has wider filters) but the K2's audio is 
nice and clear.
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Re: [Elecraft] If you're going to Visalia ...

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Is it the same size as the KPA500
The way my desk is built I cannot go taller then the K3 is


  From: Wayne Burdick 
 To: Clay Autery  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 7:12 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] If you're going to Visalia ...
   


Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Just sew in some fiberglass reinforcement straps...  :)

No need for that. The RF deck weighs only 22 pounds. 




   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Did you power the k3 off from the power button or by cutting power to the k3?





 Original message 
From: Steve Wilson via Elecraft  
Date: 2017-04-17  11:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Heil HM-10 Dual 

Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!
Here's the strange part about this story. I did have a QSO with a station in 
North Dakota after setting up the rig, so we knew all was working. We shut off 
the rig and I left for home. Later in the evening, my godfather turned the K3 
on and tried to transmit, but noticed that he wasn't getting any moving bars 
with the transmit audio. I walked him through putting the K3 into test mode, 
turning down the mic gain, and then turning up the mic gain while he was 
transmitting to find the optimum level, but we couldn't get the meter to show 
any response to the audio. I did the same procedure on my own K3 to make sure I 
was talking him through the right steps and it worked fine on mine. He did try 
a Heil headset with the same results. I plan to try and get up to visit again 
this weekend and bring a hand mic with me to try and make sure that it is 
definitely the K3 and not the mic.
So unless I'm missing something obvious, it seems like there is an issue with 
the K3 itself. Unfortunately, Elecraft support couldn't go beyond the same 
tests that I did last night.
Does anyone have any suggestions short of shipping to, or dropping off the rig, 
at Elecraft for a thorough test? 
Thanks, Steve  KG6HJU



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[Elecraft] What is the correct way to hook up my K2 & K3 to my KAT500 & KPA300 ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The KPA500 is connected to the the KAT500 via a 15pin cable (AUX on Amp,  AMP 
Control on KAT500)
The K3 is connected to the KAT500 via a 15 pin cable as well (ACC on K3, XCVR 
on KAT500)


I have a switch on the Input to the KPA500 that selects either the K2 or the K3


Do I connect the Key Out line from the K2 to the RCA Key IN (PTT RLY Red Jack)

and then the key signal to the AMP will be provided via the 15 pin cable?


Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver I.F. Tap

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Yes it is possible 
I was going to replacate the buffer amp as it was on the main receiver for my 
sub receiver 




 Original message 
From: wa9fvp  
Date: 2017-04-15  11:52 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver I.F. Tap 

I notice on the sub-receiver schematic dated 8/18/08 that there was a
connector for a plug-in board. I assume it was for an I.F. buffer plug-in
circuit that connects to J93 for an I.F. tap.  I didn’t see that on the
KRX3A but the jumper W3 is near connector J78. Is it possible to attach a
J309 to and duplicate the circuit on the main receiver?

John Albert WA9FVP
WillcoElectronics.





-
Jack WA9FVP

Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Sub-Receiver-I-F-Tap-tp7629352.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Has anyone tried the aftermarket K3 Filters from ebay?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I was curious if anyone had tried the Aftermarket K3 Filters on ebay?

(I'm not in the market for more filters as my K3 is basically full)

Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] Has anyone recently got a K2 Kit with the NEW main Knob, Does it Fit?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

That is the old style knob same as on my old K2 and the one I just built
The new one as per the eratta (that came out in December as I recall).Has a 
knob like the kx3 metal with a dimple and rubber tire.



 Original message 
From: Cameron Francey <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com> 
Date: 2017-04-12  11:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>, Elecraft Reflector 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Has anyone recently got a K2 Kit with the NEW main 
Knob, Does it Fit? 



Hi Harry,


I have my second  K2 which I got in the middle of January.  
Both the knob on my earlier one, from June 2016 and the one from January 2017 
is the same, and it fits perfectly.  The knob is the updated one which also 
ships with the new encoder
 assembly.



Hope that helps, 



Cameron - AF7DK/GM7LQR










From: Elecraft <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Harry Yingst via 
Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>

Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 7:26 PM

To: Elecraft Reflector

Subject: [Elecraft] Has anyone recently got a K2 Kit with the NEW main Knob, 
Does it Fit?
 





When I ordered my K2 (end of January) it came in with the old style knob not 
the one that was in the Errata sheet (same style as the KX3).





After a series of calls and e-mails I finally got Elecraft to send the knob 
only to find that it does not fit correctly as the encoder shaft



is too long so it sticks out from the front panel and does not engage on the 
felt washer. Additionally the knob is also too large (diameter

in the rear where it flairs out so it it did engage the felt washer it would 
rub on the Display bezel.





So my question is to those who recently got a K2 (NOT the KX2).

Did you receive a KX3 style Knob as per the Errata Sheet and if so does it fit 
correctly?





Thank you







.

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[Elecraft] Has anyone recently got a K2 Kit with the NEW main Knob, Does it Fit?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

When I ordered my K2 (end of January) it came in with the old style knob not 
the one that was in the Errata sheet (same style as the KX3).


After a series of calls and e-mails I finally got Elecraft to send the knob 
only to find that it does not fit correctly as the encoder shaft

is too long so it sticks out from the front panel and does not engage on the 
felt washer. Additionally the knob is also too large (diameter
in the rear where it flairs out so it it did engage the felt washer it would 
rub on the Display bezel.


So my question is to those who recently got a K2 (NOT the KX2).
Did you receive a KX3 style Knob as per the Errata Sheet and if so does it fit 
correctly?


Thank you



.
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Re: [Elecraft] ICOM Remote Antenna Tuner

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I used to run the SGC-230 tuner at the base of my antenna.

As I recall it has a auto mode that does not require a tuning circuit






  From: John Pierce 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 5:24 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] ICOM Remote Antenna Tuner
   
I am looking at remote antenna tuners.  I have seen several controllers for
the ICOM AH-4 tuner.  My questions are about operation with a K3s.
1.    Is there a limit to the time that 10w of RF can be sent to the AH-4
via the K3s Tune button?
2.    All circuits specify a momentary switch, but does momentary mean
0.1sec, 1.0sec or 5seconds? Does the time matter?
3.    When the complete signal returns from the AH-4 should the Tune RF or
the momentary be terminated immediately?
4.    Is there a combination of momentary or Tune RF that will damage the
AH-4?

I have an AH-4 which worked with a home built controller for some months,
and then became operationally intermittent and final fails to work at all.
That makes me gun-shy, about buying another even though the AH-4 gets
excellent reviews on eHam, almost all of which are based on an ICOM rig
control.

John, AD2F

   
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[Elecraft] K2 panadapter bandwidth?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I was curious as to those running a panadapter with the K2.
How much bandwidth are you able to see?
I hooked up my FiFi SDR to the IF out and at 192 khz the band edges are faded 
out.
Thank you 

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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have a Pace de-soldering tool so taking off the display is not really an 
issue,
but agreed it would have been easier before the display was installed.


As for the diffuser, If needed I have a CNC mini mill so I could cut a piece of 
Plexiglass and I have
a nice sample pack of photography gel filters that include many colors and some 
various defusing films.


I was trying to avoid having to build one from scratch, That being saig I may 
just use it as is for a while.
After all the face of the K2 is half grey so it does not quite match the K3 as 
it is.


Thank you


From: David Woolley 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 5:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?



I'd never really thought about the colour, but I think it is basically 

the natural colour of the combination of liquid crystal and polariser. 

It's not the narrowband green that you would get with a green LED.


Especially if you add in the fact that white "LED"s are really narrow 

band blue LEDs with broadband yellow phosphors, so are not peaking in 

the green, natural variations in colour vision, or colour vision 

defects, could easily cause the colour to be treated as a yellowish 

amber, rather than a reddish green.


I would have thought using green LEDs would have been a more efficient 

use of precious milliamps.


The display is just a seven segment array and has a manufacturer's part 

number, although it is possible it is end of line.  I don't think it is 

custom, or at least not at the time of the original design.


The real problems with making the change are that the LED's are 

integrated into the diffuser and the diffuser is behind the, unsocketed, 

display.  I doubt you could change the colour, except before the first 

build, without destroying the LCD panel.  It is also possible that the 

diffuser assembly is difficult to source; there is no manufacturer's 

part number for that.


-- 

David Woolley K2 06123
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I has a Ten Tec amp that was like that  with RGB LEDs





  From: Bill Frantz 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 7:51 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
   
If you can replace the backlight LEDs with RGB LEDs, you might 
be able to have any color you wanted depending on the current 
limiting resistors. :-)

When I turn the backlight off on my K3, the color shifts from 
amber to something gray-green.

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz        | Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506      | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the
www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Actually the Stock Backlight LEDs are Green
If you shine a light at the K3 or the KPA500 you will se they also gave a 
greenish cast to them when off



  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Tom McCulloch ; Harry Yingst ; 
"elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 5:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
   
Tom,

The LCD display on the K2 has "been what it was" from the beginning 
(even for Field Test units).
The backlighting is white (LEDs, not incandescent), but the color of the 
actual display is green when backlighted.  Actually, it is green when 
frontlighted (without the backlight) as well, but more gray than green.

There is no amber LCD for the K2, never has been.  I think some posters 
confused K2 with the KX2 (which does have an amber LCD - same LCD as the 
K3/K3S and the KX3).

The LCD display is a custom display, so duplicating that custom display 
for someone who wants an amber display would be quite an expensive 
proposition.  In other words, an amber LCD for the K2 is not practical.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 4:51 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
> When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are 
> (what looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and 
> right sides of the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's 
> a word) color.  It's actually the color from the two "clear" 
> incandescent bulbs.
> 
> Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Interesting

I build a K2 Years ago SN in the 3500 range and just built a new one (just 
finished it).

Both with Green Backlights.  I was thinking that it would be nice to

change this one over to an Amber backlight so it matches my K3 better.

I may just need to find some closely matching LEDs or just leave it as is.

I figured it was worth a shot.






From: Tom McCulloch 
To: Harry Yingst ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?



When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are (what 
looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and right sides of 
the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's a word) color.  It's 
actually the color from the two "clear" incandescent bulbs.

Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?

Tom, wb2qdg
K2 s/n 1103


On 4/4/2017 3:18 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I've pretty much standardized on Amphenol connectors.
It's worth paying a little more and having less headaches.


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: donov...@starpower.net; 'Elecraft Reflector'  
 Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 5:12 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal
   
Good point Frank. 

Amphenol specs leakage for their BNC connectors at 3GHz where they claim 55
dB. By comparison they claim 90 dB at 3 GHz for their type N connectors.

I've never felt the need for the additional shielding in the shack. 

Of course these are Amphenol specs. Any other brand may have any other level
of leakage. As many have noted, the extra price of a good connector is saved
many times over chasing bad cable connections later. 

BNC specs
http://www.amphenolrf.com/connectors/bnc.html

N specs:
http://www.amphenolrf.com/connectors/n-type.html

73, Ron AC7AC


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

How did you get the Amber display?



  From: Tom McCulloch 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 9:46 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
   
Amber here..s/n 1103

Tom

wb2qdg


   
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[Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I saw a picture wher somone had an amber display on their K2.
I would assume it's just a matter of changing out the led backlight.
So the question is where can I get an Amber backlight panel?Or do I just make 
my own?
Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] Opinion of the KXPD3 for kx3?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I prefer a single paddle, but I first learned with a bug (I'm 53)
My son prefers dual paddles, but that's what he learned with (he's 29)
 




 Original message 
From: Bob Nielsen  
Date: 2017-04-03  11:45 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Opinion of the KXPD3 for kx3? 

It must be an age-related thing.  I'm 78 and seem to do better with a 
single lever paddle, my preferred models being the Kent and the Palm 
Single.  I have a Begali Adventure Mono for my KX2 which is OK but the 
adjustments are quite critical.

73, Bob N7XY


On 4/3/17 4:28 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> I tried it once.  I don't know what the changes were from the early 
> ones, I think this one had the new springs or whatever.  I found it 
> hard, my KXPD1 on my KX1 was much better.
>
> That said, I'm 76, injuries to my hands 50 years ago and arthritis 
> now, I began to find my Hexkey hard.  The paddle pieces are small and 
> like Jim, without a solid rest for the radio and my arm, I pretty much 
> sent Klingon.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
> Sparks NV USA
> Washoe County DM09dn
>
> On 4/3/2017 4:08 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Mon,4/3/2017 1:08 PM, Eddy Avila wrote:
>>> With that said, what's the opinion of the KXPD3 key?
>>
>> I've tried to use one that my neighbor bought for his KX3. IMO, its 
>> only virtue is its small size. I found that I could only use it if I 
>> could somehow set the KX3 on a surface so that I could rest my wrist 
>> on something, and even then, I found it difficult. OTOH, at age 75 
>> and bored with ragchewing, my fist which used to be good is no longer.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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[Elecraft] K3 with ATU & KAT500 can this be done?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Is it possible to have the K3 sense if the KAT500 is On and if so use the KAT500


and if the KAT500 is OFF then use the Internal ATU in the K3?
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial adapter for KIO2

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Sabrent USB 2.0 to Serial (9-Pin) DB-9 RS-232 Adapter Cable 6ft Cable [FTDI 
Chipset] (CB-FTDI)
Available on amazon for about 14 dollars 
They work well







 Original message 
From: Paul Huff  
Date: 2017-03-30  9:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Elecraft Email List  
Subject: [Elecraft] USB to Serial adapter for KIO2 

I am adding a KIO2 to my Elecraft K2 and will of course build the required 
interface cable per the Elecraft instructions.  But my computer will require 
adapting the serial connection to a USB.  I have heard that some adapters work 
well and others do not.  I would be interested in hearing specific brand 
suggestions for a good adapter.

Thanks and 73,

Paul - N8XMS
NAQCC President
NAQCC #0675
http://www.naqcc.info/ 


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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial adapter for KIO2

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

As there seems to be some confusion on your part I would suggest that 
downloadand Read The Data Sheet for the "DB9-USB family of USB to UART 
Converters"
Available Here :  http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/163/DS_DB9-USB-15654.pdf
You will then understand what it is and how it functions.









  From: Fred Jensen 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial adapter for KIO2
   
OK Harry, as you wish, but just DO NOT plug a USB-Serial adapter cable 
into the DE-9 connector on the back of the K2 ... unless you strive to 
have Don repair it for you afterward. The connector on the back of your 
K2 is *NOT* an RS-232 serial port.  It does have 2 standard RS-232 wires 
in it [3 if you count signal ground], but all the other pins are 
internal signals at TTL levels and will not tolerate RS-232 signal 
levels which can range up to +/-12V.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Weighted Knob

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Years ago I used lead shot and epoxy to sill in the voids on a knob to add 
weight.

You could probably also use BBs instead of the Lead shot



  From: Doug Millar via Elecraft 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 6:55 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 Weighted Knob
   
Hi, 
    Well, I might have done it. I like a little heavier knob on my radios. Ever 
since I had an HRO radio. 
    I took the KX2 knob and put 4 nuts in each of the four bins in the back of 
the knob. I took some modeling clay and forced it in to hold the nuts and to 
give more weight. I think that is just about perfect for weight and inertia. 
Comments? 
   Doug jEY
 
drzarko...@yahoo.com
562 810 3989  cell/text


   
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial adapter for KIO2

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The DB9-USB-D5-F cost about $15, so for about the price of a USB to RS-232 
Cable you can put the USB interface right n the K2.
If you decide in the future you want to go a different route you simply remove 
it and get the KIO2 from Elecraft.







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