Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume

2007-06-19 Thread Kelly Grant
My dream costume is being worked on right now. An embroidered jacket, slashed silk petticoats and a coat from the early 17th century. We have been plotting for about six months now...the embroidery has begun and now I am in search for the perfect silk. Yes, I am spoiled! Kelly An

Re: [h-cost] 1432 doublet - fastening?

2007-05-27 Thread kelly grant
I'm not sure about the lacing up the back idea with period garments...haven't seen any in early period garments, side back lacing in later, Rennaisance, garments, and not until the 17thC centre back lacing... But I could be wrong. Kelly - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL

[h-cost] was... New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern, now fit in period clothing

2007-04-27 Thread kelly grant
Thank you Melusine! I have a huge problem with the gianormous armholes modern people feel they need in period clothes...but then I also have a problem with the loose fit of period clothing on a lot of modern interpreters. They feel that proper period clothes are too hot. This just isn't the

RE: [h-cost] Questionable identification on exhibit item

2007-04-15 Thread Kelly Grant
I would say it's an afternoon dress for going out in, definately not evening attire. Evening dresses of the period had open necklines and short sleeves. Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [h-cost] continuous steel boning

2007-04-06 Thread kelly grant
Are you looking for spiral steel or straight steel? I've used the spiral steel in the curved seams of a Victorian coset with really good results. I order from Greenberg and hammer in New York city. Kelly, in Nova Scotia Canada Hi, Does someone know where can I buy steel continuous

RE: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?

2007-02-16 Thread Kelly Grant
Try leading strings...lappets were lace extensions on the back of ladies caps in the 18th century. Kelly, An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL

Re: [h-cost] Re: bonnet / coif query

2007-02-11 Thread kelly grant
Matthew Could I have a copy as well? [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank you so much! Kelly Any chance I could get them too? Anne (back to lurking) If you e-mail me off-List, I'll scan-in the pages from my own copy of Before The Mast and download them to you a jpg files. YIS, Matthew, isolated by

Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease

2007-02-07 Thread Kelly Grant
What is it with Home Ec teachers??? I suffered a similar fate. I had to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys. I had been cooking and sewing for years before hand. I managed to fail all three years, the teacher thought I was taking my sewing projects home for my

Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design

2007-02-03 Thread kelly grant
Why would you worry so much about matching the plaid? I could see it in the back seams of the bodice and the centre front...but for the skirt? Yes, it seems like an awful waste of fabric. Kelly On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 12 yards @45 for the dress? 12 yards

Re: [h-cost] Construction Thoughts on Surcoat/Outergown?

2007-01-27 Thread kelly grant
Saragrace Knauf wrote: more ideas on the construction of the surcoat or outer gown (OG) on this outfit. http://saragrace.us/html/A1_GoldenAgeDressDiary_PAMPics.html My quandaries with this OG are this. 1.) Is that a collar lying on her shoulder? This is best seen in the first picture

RE: [h-cost] ot/cat on a hot tin roof

2007-01-18 Thread Kelly Grant
I had that kind of day yesterday...a day of waiting for things to arrive so I could work. Unfortunately, I was at work, so couldn't even work on home projects! Keep plugging along with that hoop, it'll be beautiful when it's done. Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad

Re: [h-cost] Christmas gift exchange

2006-12-25 Thread Kelly Grant
My secret santa overspent! Holy Cow, I so do not feel worthy of such a wonderful gift. Corsets by Valerie Steele, a lovely set of embroidery scizzors in copper tone and a handmade case for them! WOW! BTW, the deadline for next years foriegn gifts should be at least two weeks earlier than

RE: [h-cost] Gack! Is she pregnant or is she not? Need your opinions!

2006-12-13 Thread Kelly Grant
She has the same shape my dolly does when i have the wheel farthingale and outfit on her. I think it's just the style of the underpinnings Kelly An insolent reply from a polite person is a bad sign. Hippocrates (c.460-c.370 bc), Greek physician From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2006-12-03 Thread kelly grant
ooopsie! Yup, I meant 1930's Kelly In a message dated 12/2/2006 12:22:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: , 1030's era with a fishtail ruffle down the back. And an evil response to what I assume is a typo--did they do fishtails in the 1000s? Ann Wass

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2006-12-02 Thread kelly grant
Right now, it's a dress from Janet Arnold's book, 1030's era with a fishtail ruffle down the back. I was mid ruffle when my husband emailed from sea to tell me the party went from formal to casual...haven't worked on it since. It may now become a short coctail dress, with the ruffle ending at

Re: [h-cost] kyoto stays again

2006-11-25 Thread kelly grant
Good Morning Bjarne! First off, yup, I agree with you, they are a bit too big around the bust. I think you could take them in along the side front curve and that would work nicely. It may also push her breasts together a bit, giving her more cleavage. I have a question though...Is she

RE: [h-cost] Blue on Judith

2006-11-14 Thread Kelly Grant
Funny how this comes up today! Last night on 'Naked Archeaologist' the show was about the colour blue in ancient times. How it was produced from the snail. The trick to getting blue from the snail was to expose the dye to sunlight. The ultra violet light produces a very vivid blue, if not

Re: [h-cost] dress type

2006-11-11 Thread kelly grant
It looks to be to be a Robe a' l'anglaise with an en fereau back. Most of the bodice is cut seperately from the skirt, except the narrow centre back piece, that one is cut one with the skirt. The pieces are then all stitched together as a dress, kinda like what you would do if it were a

Re: [h-cost] Pants tayloring question ...

2006-10-23 Thread kelly grant
It's a waist to crotch length problem, if you sit the trousers where you want them to sit in the crotch, then mark a new waistline, moving the waistband down, you'll fix that problem. It's one of those looks that seems popular today, but because of my training, drives me crazy! Kelly -

RE: [h-cost] organ/pipe pleats

2006-10-18 Thread Kelly Grant
Hiya, You are thinking along the same thoughts as me on the shaping to achieve the rolled look without the horizontal pull, I can't wait to see finished pictures, so few people do this time period! As for the stuffing and possible ridge line, if you allow for the most stuffing at the point

Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread kelly grant
Thank you Bjarne! I hadn't noticed that one! Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 3:37 PM Subject: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time. Hi, Some years back, we had this topic up about

Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread kelly grant
Robin, How did you build your roll/wheel in the end? I was liking the idea of a wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet. I have a wheel supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses. Kelly - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-24 Thread kelly grant
I think that if they were so willing to get the costumes right, they would have gotten the language right too...sorry, didn't get to see much of this series, was too put off by the extreme use of VERY modern foul language! Kelly I can think of one program, or a series of programs, that may

Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-24 Thread kelly grant
? Sylrog On Sep 24, 2006, at 11:41 AM, kelly grant wrote: I think that if they were so willing to get the costumes right, they would have gotten the language right too...sorry, didn't get to see much of this series, was too put off by the extreme use of VERY modern foul language! Kelly I

Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-24 Thread Kelly Grant
with A site of possible interest: http://www.wordorigins.org There are some things I surely don't want to be to accurate about in my re-enacting! kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't have an objection to foul language, it has it's place, it was the word they were using I had a problem

Re: [h-cost] Deadwood

2006-09-24 Thread Kelly Grant
it :-) Kelly Grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The website that was posted gave us many answers... Cunt - Use of cunt as term of abuse for a woman is a 20th century sense. From Frederic Manning's 1929 The Middle Parts of Fortune: 'What's the cunt want to come down 'ere buggering us about for, 'aven't

RE: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

2006-09-20 Thread Kelly Grant
Hi Allison, Off the top of my head, I'd say that venetians should be full at the top, I've seen them with cartridge pleats or flat pleated, but either way quite full. The knees are quite tight to the leg though. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment,

RE: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet

2006-09-19 Thread Kelly Grant
The tabs look great to me, in fact the whole doublet does. I think that when you are fully dressed, your bottom half garment will create the look you are after in the tabs. They just need that stuff underneath. Will you be wearing petticoats or venetians? Kelly Bravery is something you

Re: [h-cost] 1690s undergarments

2006-09-16 Thread kelly grant
The shift should have just a rectangular collar like a man's shirt. The other stuff is a stock, basically a long hemmed strip of linen that's tied around your neck. You start with the centre of the strip at the front neck, cross in the back and bring it around to the front and tie it like a

Re: What would *you* use? (was Re: [h-cost] Racinet

2006-08-31 Thread Kelly Grant
I am agreeing with Dawn on these two books, not sure about the third, I don't own it. The Survey of Historic Costume comes up to modern times, I think the late 1970's/80's and has quite a bit on modern fashion that should be helpful when tying the course into the rest of your fashion program.

Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)

2006-08-08 Thread Kelly Grant
While I totally agree with the dislike of 'Waisted Efforts', it is for other reasons...the lack of important information. Bob Doyle uses many different methods in his work, but leaves out crucial information in both this book and his latest on Tailoring. I have always drafted corsets from

RE: [h-cost] Pattern making books

2006-08-05 Thread Kelly Grant
The Metric cutting system books by Winifred Aldrich! Amazing books! There's one for men, one for woen, and another for childern. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then

Re: [h-cost] Straw Boater or Bowler Hat

2006-07-19 Thread kelly grant
Dirty Billy hats! His prices were reasonable the last time I ordered from him, and from time to time he carries a variety of straws. Kelly - Original Message - From: REBECCA BURCH [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:18 PM Subject: [h-cost]

Re: [h-cost] What do you do?

2006-07-06 Thread kelly grant
I put all of my costumes away for a few years, in the attic closet. I took a very long break (6 years) and am only now feeling inspired to head back out! Kelly - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 4:21

Re: [h-cost] 18th cent movie

2006-06-29 Thread kelly grant
Barry Lyndon was filmed in period interiors, with extant clothing and by candlelight. One of the best films Kubrick ever made! Kelly - Original Message - From: Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 2:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] 18th cent movie

Re: [h-cost] Neck Ruff

2006-06-20 Thread Kelly Grant
For my latest ruff, I folded the fabric in half, lengthwise, pleated it, and sewed the raw edge by machine to hold the pleats. I then stitched the neck band on, sewing the inside edge first, then hand tacking the outside edge so it looks hand stitched. I tend not to use lace, as it would have

RE: [h-cost] 1775 outfit

2006-06-08 Thread Kelly Grant
Looks Yummy! Even in cotton. Are you going to embroider it? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears

Re: [h-cost] WWI, was Victorian help?

2006-06-02 Thread Kelly Grant
Fran, Is there a book on the 19teen years in the works??? The other books are amazing sources of information, but I don't work in to Victorian era any more...looking for more information, always, but now looking into the first part of the 20thC. Kelly Bravery is something you can

Re: [h-cost] hello out there and what's on your dressform

2006-05-21 Thread kelly grant
Hi Penny, I think it's from a little later than 1860, and buttons in the front. That's just my opinion, before coffee though...I'll see what I can find. Kelly - Original Message - From: Penny [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006

RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing this spring?

2006-05-11 Thread Kelly Grant
Jane, who lives at work, is wearing a series of 1915 blouses, finished another one yesterday...Judy, who lives at home, is fortunately finally naked! After a very long project, it's finally done and I may take the summer off...holy crap, did I just say that??? Kelly Bravery is something

[h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction

2006-04-24 Thread kelly grant
I think most modern people have both a healthy skeptism about advertising, and an awareness that fiction (including films) is not reality. I would have to disagree with you on the 'most modern people' part of your statement. I think that history nerds, of which I am a proud member ;-), are

Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction

2006-04-24 Thread kelly grant
Same trailer, but not the same site...thank Christ! it's a fake... Kelly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vD4OnHCRd_4 You mean the fake trailer? These are clips from previous movies (I definitely spotted a Romeo and Juliet shot) and mention of the warm liquid goo phase comes from the first

Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 361

2006-04-24 Thread kelly grant
I read an interview with James Cameron, in which he said he invented Jack There really was a Jack Dawson, he worked as a stoker, I believe, and is burried in the Titanic section of the graveyard around the corner from us. You'd be surprised to know how many people think that it is the same

Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction

2006-04-24 Thread Kelly Grant
of advertising. Or even a science nerd. Fran Lavolta Press wrote: kelly grant wrote: I think most modern people have both a healthy skeptism about advertising, and an awareness that fiction (including films) is not reality. I would have to disagree with you on the 'most modern people

RE: [h-cost] Mouldy linen

2006-04-20 Thread Kelly Grant
If it's a lower class chemise, why not cut out the mouldy bits and patch them. Adds character! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what

Re: [h-cost] 1740-50 stays.

2006-04-11 Thread kelly grant
It's difficult to tell from the line drawing. Do you have access to a photo of the original stays? I would hazzard to guess, that with the rounded tip to the strap, that the artist was looking at a laced strap, just didn't draw in the eyelet. By the way, it looks fabulous! Where do you get

Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut

2006-04-05 Thread kelly grant
That looks fabulous! Just what I imagined bliaut to look like in person! Very cool Kelly - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 12:38 PM Subject: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut

Re: [h-cost] re: GFD fittings, etc.

2006-04-02 Thread kelly grant
Actually, by putting bias to straight in the mid 19thC they created a hoop that would balance itself, and a skirt that would flow away from the legs when walking. Pretty cool. A lot of our modern clothing construction method were developed in the 19thC. Some seriously inovative cutting to

RE: [h-cost] Clothes fitting

2006-03-31 Thread Kelly Grant
God forbid, stores cater to the older than 20 crowd! If this idea were to actually fly, how many women would take up the shopping hobby? I'd like to see what sort of percentage of women are these stores missing by continuing to ignore this market. I for one would love to be able to go into

[h-cost] Elizabethan doublets, hooks and eyes at waist

2006-03-21 Thread kelly grant
Well, I'm constructing one, and am almost at the point where I have to decide what to do about lacing the doublet to the waistband of the nethergarment. (petticoat, venetians) The style I am working on has eyelets right through the skirts to point the two garments together. I have seen hooks

Re: [h-cost] Daughter of Charity cornette

2006-03-20 Thread kelly grant
From what I know of the habit, all the layers of the headdress would have been starched, including the cap. My Anut is a member of the sisters of Notre Dame and wore the habit until the late 60s, she lost all of her hair because of the starch! Kelly I saw a request on another list for

Re: [h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?

2006-03-19 Thread kelly grant
There is a merchant on EBay that sell church brocades. His prices are reasonable, and the fabric is yummy. Check fibre contents though, some are highly polyester and may not be suitable for your project. We found some good blends that are nice and heavy and have really good drape for

Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises

2006-03-13 Thread kelly grant
Hi Monica, I'm wondering where her sources come from...how old they are. Karl Kohler era costumers have been passed as almost biblical until recently. This might be why she thinks the shifts were drawstrung. I would offer her the portraiture you've been looking at and have a good discussion

Re: [h-cost] Ruffs

2006-03-13 Thread kelly grant
That and you lose out on the fun of washing and starching ruffs...something I actually enjoy doing...kinda little and boring an can be done on my own time. kelly Straw stiffener, what you use on millinery straw (and hats) to keep it in shape, is pretty effective, and transparent. Use in a

Re: [h-cost] Ruff

2006-03-12 Thread kelly grant
I personally like to starch after it's constructed, then the starch doesn't break down when being handled and I can shape the ruff the way I like. Kelly - Original Message - From: Shane Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006

Re: [h-cost] The Change Hand Fans

2006-03-06 Thread kelly grant
Both of the Mums in our household are going through the change, we have hand fans stashed everywhere in our re enacting kit! Most of them are the sandlewood variety. Kelly Okay ladies... how many of you have had hot flashes and found that your hand fans are your new best friend? Maybe a

Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice

2006-03-06 Thread kelly grant
I was thinking shoulder strap too...It sound like you may have to unpick the strap seam, and take up the front shoulder at an angle from it's original, not touching the original back shoulder seam. You may also want to interline the bodice with your interlining cut so the shoulder strap is on

Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset

2006-02-28 Thread kelly grant
Hi fellow corset makers, When making a corset for a person I start with a block pattern of that person. A good book is Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting. In it there is a full body block for dressmaking, which you will need to use to go over the hip (the bodice block stops at the

Re: [h-cost] Waugh's 1844 Corset

2006-02-28 Thread kelly grant
I'm not sure what a block is. Is that the same thing as a muslin? Susan, the uninformed It's also called a sloper, a fitting muslin, if I catch your train of thought, would be the same thing. Basically a fitted basic darted garment that reflects where your body is. Once you have that

Re: [h-cost] Jealousy, envy desire

2006-02-25 Thread kelly grant
Hi Rebecca, The program I went through at Dalhousie University in Halifax NS Canada, is a two year Diploma or a you can now go for a full degree program. (I'm heading back this Fall, to complete the degree, while I teach in the Dip program) The Diploma is all you really *need* if you want

RE: [h-cost] clothing for the reluctant husband

2006-02-23 Thread Kelly Grant
Umm, scandalous idea...why not early 17thC, Venetians and a boring ol' doublet? They would be in the rightish time period for black powder(cannon). Fencers are already wearing that time period, even though most in the SCa do not approve. It isn't a very poufy time period, he'd still be

Re: [h-cost]Redwork,

2006-02-22 Thread kelly grant
My first Guess would be that it was miss named, either recently and is in fact Queen Mary, or sometime in history and has been recently discovered to be Bess of Hardwick. Kelly Why does the painting have Maria Regina written on it? Just curious, Anne

Re: [h-cost] Re: OT: Urinetown (was 1930's factory wear)

2006-02-21 Thread kelly grant
PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 20:00:20 -0400 From: Kelly Grant Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week! Kelly From: Cabbage Rose

Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt

2006-02-20 Thread kelly grant
Sorry for taking so long to reply to this. I chose Janet Arnold's method of making the wheel because it uses the least amount of fabric. This has been a pet project of mine for some time. I believe that if you had to weave the fabric yourself, then you wouldn't waste any of it. So a lot of

Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-17 Thread kelly grant
There are two gowns here in our collection at the Nova Scotia, made from the same, or similar fabrics, one is in it's original condition, the other has been remade to the end of the 18thC fashions...very cool. It is my hope to one day take patterns from them both, you know, someday when I

Re: [h-cost] Cavelier clothing, was 3 musketeers

2006-02-16 Thread Kelly Grant
God! I wish I lived closer to you all! It would be so cool to be able to discuss this time period over a cuppa, 'round a campfire. I am the only one in this area who does this time period and often miss my hardcore re enacting days. Great conversation. Kelly in NS Bravery is something

Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern

2006-02-16 Thread kelly grant
Of the Smoke and Fire patterns, I would choose stock #RHF-701 for the shirt and #PI-775 for the trousers. While at the Halifax Citadel, who recreates the mid 19thC, we made clothes similar to these patterns. I did make confederate jackets for a couple of the guys to go to Gettysburg the big

Re: [h-cost] colonial

2006-02-15 Thread kelly grant
Holy Crapola, that dress is beautiful, but really badly mounted. So I wouldn't trust all of their information, especially about the gown meeting edge to edge at the centrefront. I wish they had taken the time to mount the dress proprely, then you would be able to see all it's glory in the

Re: [h-cost] 3 musketeers

2006-02-15 Thread kelly grant
Oh so true Bjarne! I picked this time period to dress myself for SCA because of my rediculously high waist! It's the only time in history that I have the body type for! I have the quintessential Rubenesque body, I can't imagine keeping the bumroll that high if I didn't. On most folks you would

Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking

2006-02-15 Thread kelly grant
That is quite a bit longer than I had imagined when I first read your email. Hope you weren't offended by my first response. I'm thinking that a gown that long would have to be held up when walking...perhaps the fashion that's depicted in Jan van Eyck's 'Marriage of Giovanni Arnolfini', in

Re: [h-cost] Tudor effigies and women walking

2006-02-14 Thread kelly grant
Not sure why the 'gown shorter than the kirtle' idea? Can you explain? As for the length of dresses seeming long, we in the modern era walk differently than ladies of the historical era would have. If, when you are walking, you let your toes drop to a relax point when stepping forward, it is

Re: [h-cost] Kelly/Estellas projekt

2006-02-13 Thread kelly grant
My Laurel in New York would put her hoop under the front busk too, I don't think there is a 'right way'. I have always done it this way, just my thing I guess;-) I have found that by putting the hoop under the busk, the hoop tilts a bit to the back. Because I have followed the Jean Hunnisett

Re: [h-cost] Embroidery dating advice

2006-02-08 Thread kelly grant
The waistcoat looks late 18th Century to me. the vibrant colours were popular then too, and if pack away from light for the last couple of hundred years, would retain it's colour. It looks in fabulous condition! I would lightly vacum it, with a low power vacume like ones used in museums, but

Re: [h-cost] Blocking a Wool Felt Hat

2006-02-06 Thread kelly grant
If you have a wool hat, it's incredibly easy to steam it to the shape you want! You need to find something that will be a good shape for a block, like a flower pot. Make sure it's a good size to match your head size. Remove all the addition hat stuff from inside the felt, like the hat band

Re: [h-cost] 1930's factory wear/Urinetown

2006-02-05 Thread Kelly Grant
What is this...the year for depression era Urinetown???We're doing the same sho for the final one of the season...we'll get the scetches next week! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers

RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit

2006-02-04 Thread Kelly Grant
It will have a bit of a modern look, because of our modern bodies, but if you try to cut the back narrow, the shoulder seam to the back, the shoulders as narrow as possible, and the armhole high, you should still have the 'look' you are trying to achieve. I spoke with the other professor this

RE: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket

2006-02-04 Thread Kelly Grant
Hi again Bjarne! Take the period draft and the portrait you want to use as you inspiration with you when you go to the dressmakers or tailors...this will help them to help you with cut. It's always better to have someone else do the fitting for you...I'm at this stage almost now, I will

RE: [h-cost] williamsburg suit

2006-02-03 Thread Kelly Grant
Hi Bjarne, modern men have larger arms and armscyes due to different types of physical activity, for the most part...yes there were occupations such as farmers and carpenters, but the upper class gentlemen took part in different activities. please don't feel bad about the fit of your armholes.

Re: [h-cost] Wool

2006-02-02 Thread kelly grant
Are you going to throw the jacket in the wash once it's made? That's usually my idea when working with any fabric. If I want to wash the garment in a machine once it's made, I wash the material in Hot water and dry in the dryer (unless I'm fulling cloth for an 18thC coat, then I full properly,

[h-cost] Queen Sophie's reconstructed dress

2006-02-01 Thread kelly grant
Just been surfing for information for my current project and came across this page http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/v1/person.asp?PersonID=12countryID=2PersonTypeID=2 with the portrait of Queen Sophie. Thought you might like to see it. Kelly ___

Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Style, Nostalgic Needle, Sharon Cohen

2006-01-30 Thread kelly grant
I also thought it was a great site, but lacks ordering information... Please be careful with printed backgrounds under the text areas, the two together strobe to my eyes, not a good think for migraine sufferers or epileptics Kelly - Original Message - From: Red Bear [EMAIL

Re: [h-cost] Tailor mannequins

2006-01-30 Thread kelly grant
They are the manekins we use at school. They are wonderfully sturdy, not squishy at all though, if you might be looking for something for squishing a corset on to. For tailoring, they are great, because they pull off their bases, and so can be laid down on a table to form the Hymos over.

Re: [h-cost] Gestational Stays

2006-01-25 Thread kelly grant
Hi Kathy, First off, let me warn you not to wear stays during your pregnancy, please...I was told by my doctor, back in the way back machine (12 years ago) that they could very easily cause miscarrage. Since breast binding wasn't an unheard of thing, it is possible that they bound, just

Re: [h-cost] Stumpwork

2006-01-23 Thread kelly grant
Stumpwork Embroidery: Designs and Projects both by Jane Nicholas? If you or anyone else on the list has: what did you think of them for a beginner? Roscelin Hi all, I own the above book, and while I had done embroidery before, had never known of stumpwork before buying this book...it

Re: [h-cost] New BBC Elizabethan drama - Virgin Queen

2006-01-20 Thread Kelly Grant
Yes! Theatre is nutts! We've had shows with less lead time! That's when you pull in everyone you know, and even some you don't, you work 18+hour days, no days off, and you collapse at the end, hating the show, and never wanting to ever see the designer again! Yes, that was a big run on

Re: [h-cost] pet hair

2006-01-20 Thread Kelly Grant
We have two right now, great grandson and son of our old boy Angus, who past away a couple of years ago. The son, 'pangur' is the great grandson's, 'sammie', great uncle. If that makes any sense...we also have a domestic heinze 57 who's the bigest of them all! Indie! Obligatory on topic

Re: [h-cost] Need details

2006-01-20 Thread kelly grant
I like to make wool bias tape from something densely woven, then use it, with a facing of polished cotton for the hem...since polished cotton is difficult to get around here, sometimes I use wacky printed quilters cotton. First off, you make the hem facing, if your skirt is shaped, it will

Re: [h-cost] 17th century purses

2006-01-18 Thread kelly grant
I've been looking at one very much like purse #2! There is one almost identical in the VA, different wording and different coloured leather. I wonder if it was a kit? Kelly/Estela - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent:

RE: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?

2006-01-17 Thread Kelly Grant
I would cut the sleeve with a shaped flare at the cuff to go over the hand, not the add on pieces. I like the look better, personally, without that extra seaming. But that's just my opinion! take it for what it's worth;-) Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the

Re: [h-cost] Sergers past topics

2006-01-13 Thread kelly grant
My hobbylock 784 was purchased about 15years ago, at the time it was well over 1000$, but I'm sure they've come down in price. It's been put through it paces working in several professional shops, carted back and forth to classes I've taught and is still running smooth and strong, with only a

Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear

2006-01-10 Thread kelly grant
Up until recently...like the late 1960's, women didn't need underwear to deal with the products used during their cycles. Belts and rags were the choice of the day. Since skirts were worn by women, and their smocks, shifts, chemises were long enough to protect their dresses from any body dirt,

Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress

2006-01-09 Thread kelly grant
A twice turned dress would mean that the skirt was first taken off and flipped upsidedown, so the former hem is at the waist, then taken apart again and flipped inside out, or maybe the panels are sideways to what they were. Poverty sucks! But, often you could tell the stature of a woman,

Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-09 Thread kelly grant
I had some serious issues with a lot of H Bohnam Carter's clothing in the episode I watched last night...What were those things on her head??? That and the shape of the dresses. The stays in this period would have been close to what she had on, but would have come in to her actual waist, while

Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-09 Thread kelly grant
Ahhh HA!( to quote a comercial on the local french network right now) Thanks for the insight, it explains a lot! Kelly - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 2:11 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost]

Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-09 Thread kelly grant
of the libraries recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones we can find in the area. I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to MAKE it work. - Original Message - From: kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED

Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread kelly grant
I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM

Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?

2006-01-07 Thread kelly grant
I have used them in the past, for Renn stuff and 18thCstuff. I like how the fabric drapes, very rich. Not sure I'd want to use this fabric if I were wearing the garment outside, say in Pennsic heat, or warmer. But for indoor events, and where I live, it worked out well. There's a photo of

RE: [h-cost] dimentional embroidery

2006-01-06 Thread Kelly Grant
Wow! I'm speachless! Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From:

RE: [h-cost] handkerchief hem on linen

2006-01-05 Thread Kelly Grant
If the linen is really fine, I'd suggest a hand rolled hem. Most of the time, the standard hemming techniques work with linen. Linen is one of those yummy fabrics that just does what you ask it to. Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger.

Re: [h-cost] bosoms was: Have you seen this painting?

2006-01-02 Thread kelly grant
That and there is a huge difference in cut between the early elizabethan stays and the 18thC stays. Even the effigy stays are cut with only three pieces...the 18thC ones are cut in five or more. That seaming adds a lot to the position of the breast within the stays. Kelly/estela -

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