Nathan wrote: "Many recipes from Medieval European culinary sources mention
adding "a handful" of saffron! I suspect they weren't necessarily too
horribly picky about species and used crocuses other than C. sativus.  Also,
such recipes were intended to make large batches for serving feasts."

Maybe. But maybe it wasn't saffron in the modern sense. Years ago I
mentioned my use of saffron (and its expense) in the presence of a Mexican
woman. She scoffed at me and said to my face that only a fool would pay that
much for saffron. She went on to tell me that she never paid that much
because she used Mexican saffron, and that if I wanted to save money so
should I. I had heard of Spanish saffron and Kashmiri saffron (and I've
recently learned of Pennsylvania grown saffron), but Mexican saffron was new
to me. I asked her where to get Mexican saffron, and she said she would
bring me some. 

She did. I didn't even have to open the zip lock plastic bag to know what it
was and why it was so inexpensive: it was safflower, Carthamus tinctorius,
and ancient substitute for and adulterant of true saffron. Now that even the
most penurious cook would use by the handful. 

About a decade ago a woman from India and I were discussing food in the
office. I offhandedly mentioned that I grow saffron. After a few discreet
preliminary questions to ascertain that she understood me, she began to ask
a lot of questions, her eyes wide-open in wonder all the time. I told her I
would bring her a corm at the right season. I did. She planted it, and it
flowered and she collected the styles. She still sends me birthday cards
every year, although we have not seen each other in about eight years.  

On another occasion, my employer at the time decided to reward a group of us
with a trip to the Atlantic City casinos. In retrospect, I can't help
wondering if the reason we were really invited was the hope that at the end
of the day at least one of use would be sober enough to drive the group
home. He gave us each $10 to play the slot machines. When my last nickel
from that ten dollars was gone, I quit and decided to look around. 

I stopped in the cafeteria for lunch. I ordered clams in a saffron broth,
which came in a light orange broth with a surprisingly large number of
bright orange-red strands. I thought to myself that the casinos must be
doing well, and how nice it was of them to pass on to the patrons some of
that success by not stinting with the saffron. After enjoying the clams and
broth for a bit, I decided to bite into a strand of the saffron to see how
intense it would be. It was shockingly intense to be sure: shockingly
intense disappointment and anger to discover that the red-orange strands
were plastic! 

One goes to the casinos to be taken, and in a sense I had been taken, but it
was the boss's money, not mine. 

Jim McKenney


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