Thanks, I got this adapting deal at a very very reasonable price and more because I had no idea how serious I would be with woodworking projects. Now after going out and looking at the various coffee tables available and the cost of said tables, my thought was and my wife thought as well it might be fun and more interesting to make our own table. Of course I'd probably have to purchase some legs already made if we wanted any thing that is round and kind of fancy, but I imagine I could fabricate a top and the other pieces to attach the top and legs too. Matter of fact, if anyone has made a coffee table or has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it. We're thinking a more formal table and either an oval shape or a rectangle shape. Just a single top, no shelves and some fancy routing possibly on the legs or sides. However, this table might be simple where no routing would be necessary. grin Hey got to start somewhere. Might even consider remodeling my office. After all, my wife said I had to justify the table saw. grin
On Jul 8, 2008, at 3:13 PM, John Schwery wrote: > Scott, if I understand your post, I would say that a roto tool would > be ok for small jobs, but I don't think it would have the power of a > good router. If you do get a router, I would suggest getting a > router table as well. A plunge router has a bit more versatility > than a fixed base router. I have a fixed base router and a > table. Sometimes I use the table and sometimes not. You might also > want to get a good set of bits, some with bearings and some without > bearings. > > earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: > > >Wow, that sounds great. I have never used a router, but I do have a > >little kit deal that will let me turn my Roto-tool into a plunge > >router. Now is this a good router option? Can't say, I just haven't > >gotten around to using it in this manner. Guess I still want to learn > >how to do it, but just need to get a little free time to play and > >realizing I have no clue how to use the unit or any router for that > >matter. > > > >On Jul 7, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Max Robinson wrote: > > > > > For inside corners a but joint if done properly is > indistinguishable > > > from a > > > mitered joint. If the board is just flat and square the mating > piece > > > is > > > just cut off square. One of the pieces goes up against the wall > and > > > the > > > other buts up against it. If the base board has some shape other > than > > > square you have to make a cutout on the end of the but end that > > > matches the > > > profile of the piece that goes up against the wall. I recently did > > > this > > > using a router with a collar. I cut a very short piece of the > board, > > > about > > > half an inch, and tacked it to the back of the end of the work > piece > > > with a > > > couple of brads. This end will be the waste piece when you are > > > finished so > > > it doesn't make any difference if you damage it. You want the cut > > > off end > > > to be a mirror image of the front of the molding so when it is > > > butted up > > > against it, it will look right. Then I tacked another piece > further > > > back > > > from the end to give support to the router base. Then I routed > > > through the > > > piece using the front of the short piece as a guide. The cut off > end > > > turned > > > out to be an exact mirror image of the front. This kind of cut > is a > > > bit > > > indefinite so you need to have something on the other end that > you can > > > adjust such as an outside corner with a miter that you can cut > long > > > and make > > > small adjustments. Oh, yes, of course. If you had two adjacent > inside > > > corners to do you could cut the other end off square and repeat > the > > > above > > > for the piece that would but up against it. > > > > > > Regards. > > > > > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > > > > > Email: <mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Transistor site > > <http://www.funwithtransistors.net>http://www.funwithtransistors.net > > > Vacuum tube site: <http://www.funwithtubes.net>http://www.funwithtubes.net > > > Music site: <http://www.maxsmusicplace.com>http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > > > > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > > > > > <mailto:funwithtubes-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Dale Leavens" <<mailto:dleavens%40puc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: > > > <<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > > > > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:57 AM > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > > > Ok, > > > > > > > > This is to measure the outside face of the trim. > > > > > > > > Because you are cutting two outside corners you need the > length of > > > the > > > > wall plus twice the thickness of the trim. If this is a 7 foot > > > wall and > > > > the trim is 3/4ths thick you need a piece 7 feet, one and a half > > > inches > > > > long from tip to tip. > > > > > > > > The other way you might measure it is to put the two mating > pieces > > > at each > > > > end into place then measure from the outside of one to the > outside > > > of the > > > > other. > > > > > > > > Finally double check that the face you want is in the correct > > > orientation, > > > > I have cut the opposite angle to the one I wanted by losing the > > > > orientation of the board. > > > > > > > > The miter saw if you have one is the correct choice, take care > to > > > clear > > > > any dust or debris from the table before placing your board, a > small > > > > amount can alter the angle quit a bit. > > > > > > > > Coping a cut is where you cut the end of a board the shape of > the > > > profile > > > > of the board you are mating with. This has no meaning if the > > > boards are > > > > flat and square but often there are shapes to the face. The > shape > > > can be > > > > scribed however this does not work well for the blind, instead, > > > and the > > > > way many craftsmen do it is to cut a 45 degree on the face of > the > > > trim. > > > > the point where the angle meets the face gives you a line you > can > > > easily > > > > feel. > > > > > > > > A coping saw is a fine thin bladed saw on a frame which > permits a > > > tight > > > > turn. Always buy extra blades, they are easily broken. > > > > > > > > You cut the mitered end off the board by following the point > where > > > the > > > > angle meets the flat face. The best way is to tilt the saw a > > > little toward > > > > the rear of the board so that you are under cutting the end > just a > > > little > > > > so that a fairly sharp fine edge meets the face of the mating > > > trim. This > > > > assures an absolutely tight joint.This is for inside corners. > > > > > > > > Hope this answers who ever was asking about coping. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: Scott Howell > > > > To: > > > > <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > > > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:36 AM > > > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > > > > > > > > Owch, your killing me my friend. Ok, let me explain a bit > more. This > > > > room currently has no baseboards at all, they were all pulled > and > > > > stupid me tossed them out or I could have used them as a > template. > > > So, > > > > what I'm doing is measuring with a ruler on the length of this > piece > > > > of wall. This wall is basically what separates two stairwells. > So, > > > the > > > > length from corner to corner is 6 and 3/4 inches. In this case, > > > these > > > > are two outside corners. So, if this were a simple straight > cut, I'd > > > > measure on the saw the length and just cut. However, because I > > > want a > > > > 45-degree angle, it would seem that you'd nearly have to include > > > some > > > > length for that angle so it juts out far enough to mate up > with the > > > > other pieces at either end that are also cut at a 45-degree > angle. I > > > > agree you have to take into consideration the width of the blade > > > etc. > > > > I imagine and not being a math wiz at all, the simple tilting > of the > > > > blade from a 0 position to a 45-degree position would mean you'd > > > have > > > > to add on some extra in order to compensate for the angled cut > or > > > am I > > > > just full of crap and have no clue what I'm talking about. > > > > I'm not using my table saw, I don't see this as a job for > that, I > > > > instead am using my miter saw. Additionally, are you saying a > coping > > > > saw might help with the inside corners? Can a blind person > > > effectively > > > > use a coping saw? I thought I had seen a post that said it > would be > > > > very difficult for a blind person to use a coping saw. Being > as I'm > > > > not an expert on anything woodworking related, but trying to > learn, > > > > I'm in no position to say one way or the other on coping saws > and > > > > their use. > > > > So, I'm open to any ideas, but would of course like to make as > few > > > > trips from the basement to the saw work location. > > > > > > > > tnx > > > > > > > > On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > > > > > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > > > > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside > corners and > > > > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting > the > > > saw > > > > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that > is, > > > > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock > to be > > > > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or > even a > > > > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has > > > some > > > > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you > measuring > > > > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an > easy > > > > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out > nearly an > > > > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you > are > > > > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a > > > 16th > > > > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy > side of > > > > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and > you > > > > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece > and > > > you > > > > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > > > > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with > power > > > > > equipment. > > > > > > > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > > > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure > on the > > > > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must > subtract > > > > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face > > > though > > > > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > > > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the > teeth > > > meet > > > > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the > teeth > > > > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use > a very > > > > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > > > > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle > > > your > > > > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the > blade > > > > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it > > > will be > > > > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by > > > the 45 > > > > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of > which > > > > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > > > > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little > to > > > get > > > > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > > > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is > possible > > > > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > > > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > > > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > > > material. > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > > > > To: > > <mailto:blindhandyman > %40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > > > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like > to > > > > > install > > > > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some > > > reason I > > > > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have > lets > > > say a > > > > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter > saw > > > and I > > > > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > > > also at > > > > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's > > > just not > > > > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer > > > some > > > > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 > 3/4 > > > I need > > > > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other > 45- > > > degree > > > > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please > > > let me > > > > > know. > > > > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > > > > > > > tnx > > > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > > > > > <mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > > > Checked by AVG. > > > > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release > Date: > > > > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > > > > <mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > > Checked by AVG. > > > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > > > 7/7/2008 > > > > 7:40 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > > > > > > <mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > > > > > <http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > > >http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > > > Or > > > > > > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > > > > > <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions > From > > > Various > > > > List Members At The Following address: > > > > > > <http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/>http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > > > > > <http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/>http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the > > > following > > > > address for more information: > > > > <http://www.jaws-users.com/>http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind > > > Handy Man > > > > list just send a blank message to: > > > > > > <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > ! > > Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Scott Howell > ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. > >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > >Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1540 - Release Date: > >7/8/2008 6:33 AM > > John > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
