Ok, I did not answer your question as far as where I measure from. If  
I'm cutting a piece and I'm measuring from left of the blade, six  
inches, I'd measure to either the right-side or really the middle of  
the blade or as close as I can to the middle. I'm trying to account  
for the blade width since it eats material. If anything by measuring  
slightly more and going to the right of the blade, I might come out a  
little longer, but it's easier to cut off excess material than it is  
to add it on. Generally I will measure right up to the blade though  
and I mean right smack up against the left side of the blade.

On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

> Where are you mitering to?
>
> The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and  
> only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the saw  
> correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is,  
> looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be  
> cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a  
> story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has some  
> thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring  
> to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy  
> enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an  
> eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are  
> using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a 16th  
> of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of  
> the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you  
> could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and you  
> could be off nearly a quarter of an inch.
>
> Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power  
> equipment.
>
> If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest  
> dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the  
> long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract  
> twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face though  
> is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your  
> measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth meet  
> the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth  
> will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very  
> sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line.
>
> At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle your  
> measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade  
> away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it will be  
> the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by the 45  
> degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which  
> the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse.
>
> Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to get  
> you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly  
> accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible  
> to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that  
> recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It  
> doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste material.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim
> ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to  
> install
> in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some reason I
> just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets say a
> measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw and I
> have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then also at
> the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's just not
> coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer some
> tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 I need
> and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45-degree
> angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please let me
> know.
> I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material.
>
> tnx
>
> Scott Howell
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





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